I have had the 101 for a couple of years, I think, and I use it as a home device. I have another expensive one, but the reality is that I use my 101 for almost everything I need a multimeter for at home. Mostly the 12V battery on my car, smaller batteries, check for broken cords and so on. It's convenient because it's so small and it feels solid. No regret so far.
My bargain bin, no brand multimeter just stopped working after 15 years and have now bought the fluke 101. Having watched your excellent video on the 101 info and teardown and then comparing it to my real cheap multimeter...i expect the 101 to last at least 150 years :P
I’m an electrical engineer who uses a Fluke 87V for bigger projects, but for smaller projects and just a simple meter to carry around I might pick one of these up.
I bought one of these a couple of years ago and had a problem with it so I contacted Amazon and they of course were not about to help so I called Fluke, big mistake. They wanted me to send it to them, said I should not have it, said they are not even suppose to be sold here or shipped here. I still have it and fixed it myself it works great. So if anything happens to it there is NO WARRANTY! My box does say Fluke on it. Good review. Thanks Tip: Hold the Hold button and turn it on and it will show all screen symbols with battery % symbol. Great little meter.
My first fluke was an analog back in the ‘70’s when I was in the Navy working on teletypes I love flukes. I do car rescues, and this is small enough that I can put it in my tool bag
Looking at buying one soon for basic measurements in my workshop and for working on my Honda motorcycle. Ill likely buy a better full featured Fluke in the new year with Amperage measurements.
Hvac 20 years. This little guy sounds like it will do everything but amps and resistance to 40 megaohms. The other non clamp meters only do up to 10 amps which limits it to small motors. Top that off with them being larger and having to split the circuit to measure amps along with the fuse issue there just is 0 need for the other meters over the 101. If you want to measure current get a clamp on meter. The fact is i looked into this 101 and i can really wing it. Even if i dont have amp capabilities i can still diagnose most everything without it it just makes it harder not having the clamp. And the i400 u can forget about purchasing that. S This thing is so tiny and so packed of features with the fluke name for 45 dollars. Definitely buying it!
I think I'm going with the 107 as I would want to test for current as well with the unit. I was looking at the 117 but as a hobbyist it might be too price prohibitive or excessive. Thanks for the review.
I was actually not in "Ohms mode" while checking latching speed, I was in continuity mode - that is why I pressed the yellow button to change modes from Ohms to continuity. As for how many Ohms it shows when in Ohms mode (or continuity mode for that matter), while holding the leads ends together... Exactly what you would expect it to be with good leads: 0.0. The final reading seems to stabilize a little quicker in Ohms mode, but that is both subjective and anecdotal.
@@Rchelicopterfun Mine doesn't, well rarely it goes to 0.0. Usually at its lowest is 0.2. But I have a feeling mine is faulty, because it takes a long time to get to those low resistance numbers
I'm considering this one for a specific test and only plan to use the resistance setting. What's the sampling rate when testing resistance? If its too slow it won't work in my application.
Should I get this or the EX330? Same price. (I’m a beginner and only will use it with old, vintage music instruments, synths, drum machines, mixers, sampler, etc… no computers, iPhones, etc.)
Been using cheapo $10 multimeters for years with my radio control hobby, airplanes, helicopters plus nitro powered 1/8 scale race cars. Finally bought a Fluke 101 a few weeks ago. Even though this meter is a small size and was made in China, I still feel that Fluke prestige when it's in my hand. Now I'm already itching to get the Fluke 107. 😹
If you prioritize robustness, reliability, longevity consistency and safety - you will never go wrong with Fluke. Also a clamp meter is for measuring large current so if you are after a high current measuring device, as stated in the video - cross the 101 of your list.
101 is one of the most durable, well built ones. I'd not trust aneng with mains, esp in Europe and 400V tri-phase. My choice of a 1st meter would be uni-t 204+ clamp meter, it's true RMS, has temperature reading and pretty decent amp jaws.
@@stanimir4197 absolutely right. ANENG 808 is fine for home/hobby use but not professionally. USA is 120V, and I have used it to test that. No problem.
That is totally dependent on application/load and battery health. LV alarm settings are an experimental exercise and can even vary greatly between packs, and flying style. I always gauge by open circuit voltage after the flight since that will be a much more more accurate state of capacity based on pack/cell voltage, along with capacity put back into the pack during recharge confirmation to gauge discharge state and set my flight timer accordingly. LV alarm is back up only. I cover this topic in detail on the LiPo page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html
I'm a real real beginner here, found a lot of cheap stuff but i just don't want to regret it. Will this 101 be perfect for me for like simple electronic testing maybe some basic electricity testing IDK like beginner stuff? do i need the things on the more expensive devices even if a get to a high micro soldering level? since this device is accurate
Another wonderful and informative video, Thanks for sharing John! Quick question my friend, do you remember what video you posted where you use a Cardboard Wedge to check the Pitch on a Micro Heli? I've been looking but I can't find it? Thank you very much in advance John! Stay Safe and Stay Healthy. ❤🙏🙏🙏❤
It's in the RC helicopter transmitter setup one for sure: ruclips.net/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/видео.html Think it's it another one as well (either the M1 or one of the M2 reviews).
I blew my fuses on my Fluke 117 several times.I took the 1000 volt fuse out and inserted 600 volt fuse cartridge type that are available at my local store.1000 volts are not available in my area.I never use it for more than 120 ac,usually not that.I have saved my one 1000 volt fuse in case I need it for high voltage.Great review testing.Just not paying 10 dollars a fuse lol.Believe the 600 volt is about half the price and should be just as safe.Wish they had added a beeper sound when your not in the correct setting.
It just a standard hobby cutting mat (also called self healing cutting mats). You can get them pretty much everywhere. I think I got this specific one from Amazon.
Depends what you want to check. For basic voltage, continuity, resistance and frequency - it will work great. If you want to check things like parasitic loads however, it won't work since it has no current measurement. With my own vehicles, this meter covers about 80% of the diagnostic checks I find myself doing. For the other 20%, I have to get out my other Fluke that can measure current and temperature.
Is in deed my first and I for one greatly appreciate your honest review of this little item I will in fact mainly be using it for hobby stuff and the occasional automotive. 🥃cheers🍻
The only gripe I have on this tiny dmm is the sound emitted for detecting short is too soft. I have to turn down or mute the volume on my TV sound system to be able to hear it - with the dmm placed very close to my ears. I have another more expensive 179 model that emits much louder sound.
You know your testing needs better than anyone else, and I show in this video what the 101 can measure. In short, you know if it has the measurements you'll need or not. The 101 is certainly not what I would consider an HVAC multi meter. It doesn't have current or a temp probe which in my opinion are must have measurements for HVAC work. The 101 also doesn't have true RMS, but for HVAC, you generally don't need true RMS for most testing. For basic HVAC component testing however, it would likely have you covered for about 75% of what most HVAC diagnostic procedures would encompass.
"If you don't know what RMS stands for, it's probably a function you don't need." On the one hand, I feel personally attacked (jk), but on the other...I probably don't need the 117 then.... Thanks for the review!
🙂 Fluke has a pretty good page explaining it: www.fluke.com/en-ca/learn/blog/electrical/what-is-true-rms I can count on one hand the number of times I've needed a True RMS meter over the past 25 years, but I work pretty much exclusively with DC. If you work with lots of various waveforms in AC, then you may need a true RMS meter.
I already answered this in your previous comment. Yes, I get 0.0 Ohms. Might get 0.1 or 0.2 if the tip ends are dirty or I don't wait long enough for the reading to stabilize.
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Fluke 101 Digital Multimeter:
- Amazon: amzn.to/3vtuzRH
- Fluke 101 English Manual: dam-assets.fluke.com/s3fs-public/101_____umeng0100.pdf
What is that sharp knife what it is called please
@@rammurthymohan3669 X-ACTO knife
Seeing how small this is i dont doubt well see cell phones that can do this or probably already do
I have had the 101 for a couple of years, I think, and I use it as a home device. I have another expensive one, but the reality is that I use my 101 for almost everything I need a multimeter for at home. Mostly the 12V battery on my car, smaller batteries, check for broken cords and so on. It's convenient because it's so small and it feels solid. No regret so far.
Sounds exactly like the jobs the little 101 excels at. Glad you are enjoying yours too; great little meters. 👍
My bargain bin, no brand multimeter just stopped working after 15 years and have now bought the fluke 101. Having watched your excellent video on the 101 info and teardown and then comparing it to my real cheap multimeter...i expect the 101 to last at least 150 years :P
I’m an electrical engineer who uses a Fluke 87V for bigger projects, but for smaller projects and just a simple meter to carry around I might pick one of these up.
I bought one of these a couple of years ago and had a problem with it so I contacted Amazon and they of course were not about to help so I called Fluke, big mistake. They wanted me to send it to them, said I should not have it, said they are not even suppose to be sold here or shipped here. I still have it and fixed it myself it works great. So if anything happens to it there is NO WARRANTY! My box does say Fluke on it. Good review. Thanks
Tip: Hold the Hold button and turn it on and it will show all screen symbols with battery % symbol. Great little meter.
My first fluke was an analog back in the ‘70’s when I was in the Navy working on teletypes I love flukes. I do car rescues, and this is small enough that I can put it in my tool bag
5:23 The 6000 count is must for measuring single cell lithium ion batery (2.5~4.2V)
I have very limited needs of a multimeter but I wanted one from a known brand. This fit the bill perfectly.
Yep, the Fluke 101 is a solid & reliable little meter. Hope it serves your electrical measurement needs well. 🙂
I love Fluke meters, use a 289 as my main handheld meter.
Looking at buying one soon for basic measurements in my workshop and for working on my Honda motorcycle. Ill likely buy a better full featured Fluke in the new year with Amperage measurements.
I’m an auto tech at an electrical shop. DC only the first thing I do with my meters is cut a hole in it, install a regular ATC fuse holder.
Hvac 20 years. This little guy sounds like it will do everything but amps and resistance to 40 megaohms. The other non clamp meters only do up to 10 amps which limits it to small motors. Top that off with them being larger and having to split the circuit to measure amps along with the fuse issue there just is 0 need for the other meters over the 101. If you want to measure current get a clamp on meter. The fact is i looked into this 101 and i can really wing it. Even if i dont have amp capabilities i can still diagnose most everything without it it just makes it harder not having the clamp. And the i400 u can forget about purchasing that. S
This thing is so tiny and so packed of features with the fluke name for 45 dollars. Definitely buying it!
I think I'm going with the 107 as I would want to test for current as well with the unit. I was looking at the 117 but as a hobbyist it might be too price prohibitive or excessive. Thanks for the review.
Good choice 👍
I'm about too order one, thanks for the info on it
Hope you like it 👍 This one's still working great (I wouldn't expect anything less).
Soa you checking to see how fast it latched in ohms mode. How many ohms does yours display while holding probes together?
I was actually not in "Ohms mode" while checking latching speed, I was in continuity mode - that is why I pressed the yellow button to change modes from Ohms to continuity. As for how many Ohms it shows when in Ohms mode (or continuity mode for that matter), while holding the leads ends together... Exactly what you would expect it to be with good leads: 0.0. The final reading seems to stabilize a little quicker in Ohms mode, but that is both subjective and anecdotal.
@@Rchelicopterfun Mine doesn't, well rarely it goes to 0.0. Usually at its lowest is 0.2. But I have a feeling mine is faulty, because it takes a long time to get to those low resistance numbers
I'm considering this one for a specific test and only plan to use the resistance setting. What's the sampling rate when testing resistance? If its too slow it won't work in my application.
Contact Fluke as it's not given in the specs.
Thank you for the great advice! Will get it.
Should I get this or the EX330? Same price.
(I’m a beginner and only will use it with old, vintage music instruments, synths, drum machines, mixers, sampler, etc… no computers, iPhones, etc.)
I found the video helpful. Thanks a bunch.
Glad it helped
Been using cheapo $10 multimeters for years with my radio control hobby, airplanes, helicopters plus nitro powered 1/8 scale race cars. Finally bought a Fluke 101 a few weeks ago. Even though this meter is a small size and was made in China, I still feel that Fluke prestige when it's in my hand. Now I'm already itching to get the Fluke 107. 😹
Nice 👍🙂
As cheap as decent clamp meters are now with more function. Is 101 fluke still a good buy?
If you prioritize robustness, reliability, longevity consistency and safety - you will never go wrong with Fluke. Also a clamp meter is for measuring large current so if you are after a high current measuring device, as stated in the video - cross the 101 of your list.
Great meter. For half the money, I highly recommend the ANENG 808. Really good meter. I use a Fluke 87 at work.
101 is one of the most durable, well built ones. I'd not trust aneng with mains, esp in Europe and 400V tri-phase. My choice of a 1st meter would be uni-t 204+ clamp meter, it's true RMS, has temperature reading and pretty decent amp jaws.
@@stanimir4197 absolutely right. ANENG 808 is fine for home/hobby use but not professionally. USA is 120V, and I have used it to test that. No problem.
is this enough for phone repairing ?
You say that a battery shouldn't go past an 80% discharge state so what should I set my batterylow warning to in my rm tx16s?
That is totally dependent on application/load and battery health. LV alarm settings are an experimental exercise and can even vary greatly between packs, and flying style. I always gauge by open circuit voltage after the flight since that will be a much more more accurate state of capacity based on pack/cell voltage, along with capacity put back into the pack during recharge confirmation to gauge discharge state and set my flight timer accordingly. LV alarm is back up only. I cover this topic in detail on the LiPo page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html
I have already bought a unit of this device. but it does not measure polarity in AC current. will the device have a problem?
1. The Fluke 101 doesn't have a current measurement.
2. AC doesn't have polarity - it's alternating.
I'm a real real beginner here, found a lot of cheap stuff but i just don't want to regret it. Will this 101 be perfect for me for like simple electronic testing maybe some basic electricity testing IDK like beginner stuff? do i need the things on the more expensive devices even if a get to a high micro soldering level? since this device is accurate
Another wonderful and informative video, Thanks for sharing John!
Quick question my friend, do you remember what video you posted where you use a Cardboard Wedge to check the Pitch on a Micro Heli? I've been looking but I can't find it?
Thank you very much in advance John! Stay Safe and Stay Healthy.
❤🙏🙏🙏❤
It's in the RC helicopter transmitter setup one for sure: ruclips.net/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/видео.html
Think it's it another one as well (either the M1 or one of the M2 reviews).
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very much for your help John, it is greatly appreciated! Take care and Stay well my friend! ❤🙏❤
I blew my fuses on my Fluke 117 several times.I took the 1000 volt fuse out and inserted 600 volt fuse cartridge type that are available at my local store.1000 volts are not available in my area.I never use it for more than 120 ac,usually not that.I have saved my one 1000 volt fuse in case I need it for high voltage.Great review testing.Just not paying 10 dollars a fuse lol.Believe the 600 volt is about half the price and should be just as safe.Wish they had added a beeper sound when your not in the correct setting.
I've grown to love brymen's 867/9 warning sound when having the leads in the 'wrong' sockets with regard to the measurement selection.
Good tip 🙂
Isn't this unit kind of worthless if you can't measure current?
this green mat... where did u buy,,, what is it called
It just a standard hobby cutting mat (also called self healing cutting mats).
You can get them pretty much everywhere. I think I got this specific one from Amazon.
Is this item quality? Work good?
All Flukes are good and work well - including the entry level 101. 🙂
Thank you.
Welcome 🙂
Where else did I hear your voice? You sound very familiar. Have you narrated anything?
Nope, just one of the many millions out there posting videos on the interweb 🙂
It's similar to Norm's from This Old House
For automotive use would this be suitable?
Depends what you want to check. For basic voltage, continuity, resistance and frequency - it will work great. If you want to check things like parasitic loads however, it won't work since it has no current measurement. With my own vehicles, this meter covers about 80% of the diagnostic checks I find myself doing. For the other 20%, I have to get out my other Fluke that can measure current and temperature.
Hi John, I’m not an electrician, purchased the Fluke 107 from TEquipment with Fluke case for $145.
Nice. 🙂
The 107 seems like a better option. If you can't test for current I think the 101 is nearly useless.
They must of stopped selling that. I see the meter just no case from them
Is in deed my first and I for one greatly appreciate your honest review of this little item I will in fact mainly be using it for hobby stuff and the occasional automotive.
🥃cheers🍻
👍
I was looking at his schedule firm basic automotive checks, automotive battery for example. Would you say this is a good buy for that?
The only gripe I have on this tiny dmm is the sound emitted for detecting short is too soft. I have to turn down or mute the volume on my TV sound system to be able to hear it - with the dmm placed very close to my ears. I have another more expensive 179 model that emits much louder sound.
Good for furnace? Ty again
You know your testing needs better than anyone else, and I show in this video what the 101 can measure. In short, you know if it has the measurements you'll need or not. The 101 is certainly not what I would consider an HVAC multi meter. It doesn't have current or a temp probe which in my opinion are must have measurements for HVAC work. The 101 also doesn't have true RMS, but for HVAC, you generally don't need true RMS for most testing. For basic HVAC component testing however, it would likely have you covered for about 75% of what most HVAC diagnostic procedures would encompass.
it's genuine fluke but the 101 is for Asian markets not the U.S market
Great Meter.
Agreed 👍
"If you don't know what RMS stands for, it's probably a function you don't need." On the one hand, I feel personally attacked (jk), but on the other...I probably don't need the 117 then.... Thanks for the review!
🙂 Fluke has a pretty good page explaining it: www.fluke.com/en-ca/learn/blog/electrical/what-is-true-rms
I can count on one hand the number of times I've needed a True RMS meter over the past 25 years, but I work pretty much exclusively with DC. If you work with lots of various waveforms in AC, then you may need a true RMS meter.
0.707 😉
So great brother 💕🐱
Many thanks
Does it have background light?
7:09
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you :) I have viewed several times , I don't know how I missed that.
No worries, I miss more than I absorb lately - 😄
My only criticism of these is they should have used 1 9v battery not 2 AAA's. I want to use a USB 9v rechargeable cell not two disposable ones.
Did you ever heard about dischargeable AAA? 😁
Is that a knock-off Fluke?
Nope, as stated in the video, it's just a 101 that is sold in China for the Chinese market.
A glorious revolutionary copy of counter revolutionary capitalist Fluke?
both are non trms
So basically you are confirming what I mentioned at 12:32 and what I state in the video description.
See if you can get to 0 with your leads.
I already answered this in your previous comment. Yes, I get 0.0 Ohms. Might get 0.1 or 0.2 if the tip ends are dirty or I don't wait long enough for the reading to stabilize.
I want to sell my Fluke 101
pahingi ako kailngan kase sa school eh