This 20-min video gives you most of the fundamentals of an entire week-long photography class, with none of the confusion. The explanations and diagrams are crystal clear. I've watched about a dozen photography videos on RUclips, and this one is by far the best. I should have started here, but better late than never.
G'day Bruce, welcome to the channel, thank you for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it. It takes me awhile to put these videos together but I am happy to hear they are helpful. Cheers, Duade 👍
I really appreciate how you show not only the raw and final image but also show the shots that don't work and explain why. In a world where people only ever see perfection and none of the mistakes that all have to own and understand to get there, these videos are really refreshing. I'm new to wildlife photography and still finding my feet trying to beat that dreaded high number of soft shots stage haha, slowly getting there!
I think it is really important to show the failures and reassure people that everybody takes soft shots etc, it is how we learn and improve. Cheers, Duade
I do enjoy your content and when I'm asked to help/teach someone want to learn more about photography, I also get that person to watch your videos as you are easily understood by the student.
I’ve just come across this video Duade and have to say that it’s one of the best I’ve seen on this subject, ever! I’d advice anyone taking up wildlife photography to watch over and over again and screenshot all the graphs to keep as a permanent reminder of how it should be done! now subscribed and will take a peek at the other videos 👍📷
G'day Terry, thank you very much for the positive feedback, I appreciate it. I am happy to hear you found it useful and thanks for the sub. Cheers, Duade
What a great video that does not just explain the various players in easy to understand terms but also how they work together and how varying the components will change your picture - and all with nice examples. Your tip on keeping the aperture at a certain range makes so much sense. This will help me tremendously although it probably will hurt my wallet since my 10 year old Canon Rebel is pretty "noisy", LOL! Thanks for a wonderful lesson! Looking forward to learning from you in all your other videos!!
G'day Karin, thank you so much for your detailed comment, glad to hear you found it useful. You could either wait for an affordable mirrorless body or look at second hand 5d3 or 4 which has much better noise handling capabilities. Good luck, Cheers, Duade 👍
Wow, this is another great video. Great information thanks Duade. Are you able to share the graphics you use in this video. They would be so helpful. Cheers Bryan
G'day Bryan, unfortunately I don't have those graphics handy, you could screenshot the video into a word document and print from there perhaps. Cheers, Duade
You asked in one of your videos what was the worst mistake you have made taking photos……… well for me it was buying a camera 2 yrs ago…… 😂 just joking ,! But that how it feels most of the time . I’ve spent Hrs watching Utube, I go out everyday, this morning I took 125 photos with only around 3 I consider fair……. I’m using a Sigma 120-400 DC 1:4.5-5.6 APRO HSM …. On a Nikon D750 ,THE PROBLEM, soft photos, I’ve spent many days chasing Blue Wrens etc. I enjoy your videos and thank you for the information, they get me out everyday but cause me some sleepless nights trying to figure out where I went wrong the previous day .Regards 😊
I shoot in mostly heavy forested areas and small birds, my issue is that I always have to use a very high iso, therefore, I rely on post to recover details. and another challenge for me is the fast change in light conditions and the birds won't wait for you to change settings.....wish there were pre-settings to just flip to when this happens.
G'day Ernest, sounds like tough conditions, I usually set my ISO and aperture and then can quickly change the SS with a dial, so I can quickly change to adapt to the light. Cheers, Duade 👍
Excellent discussion Duade. Most of the birds I shoot are in heavily forested areas with lots of dappled light. Ever consider doing a piece on how handle that kind of situation?
Thanks Jack, it is a real challenge and I usually try to only shoot in the forest on overcast days. If the sun is out I try to find an area in shade for the background as dappled light is almost impossible to deal with. Cheers. Duade
Loved this, just started with wildlife shooting Hares in the Uk, low light is causing me problems as am using a Tamron 18-400. At 400 f5.6 is wide open and my canon 760d doesn’t handle high iso very well, any suggestions would be appreciated! Keep up the great work 👍🏻
Andy, yes low light is always a challenge and all cameras struggle with it. FF camera handle it much better but you lose the 1.6 crop factor. If you have not tried it I highly suggest downloading a trial of DXOPureRaw2 tidd.ly/3hH0Kta and using it on some of your noisy RAW files, you will be amazed at what it can do. Cheers, Duade
Duade your videos are absolutely mind blowingly good. I am a beginner and your explanations, video production, visual examples are perfect for learning. Thanks so much. PS: I was wondering, for people like me who have less time and memory card flexibility, what tips you might have for actually archiving and organizing the images in a useful way to curate your content, find best photos etc. (I'll be watching your video on choosing the best shot soon)
Hi Kuthan, thank you for your kind comment. Yes, file organising can be a challenge, but it is important to get a system going so you do not become overwhelmed with files. I do it slightly different to most people. After a session I actually review the images on the back of the camera(I zoom into 100% to check sharpness) and I give a rating to only the best images of any burst or series. I rate them from 1 star for a keeper to 5 stars being the best. I estimate I keep between 5-15% of shots depending on the species. I then import those files into a new folder that is sorted by year, month, date and location. Once the files are imported into Lightroom, I sort by rating and the highest rating shots come straight to the top. I delete all the images with no rating attached. This way I only keep the top images from each session, and I don't get hard drives filled with images I will never use. The popular way to do it is to download all your files onto a hard drive and view them in a program such as Faststone image viewer. Zoom into 100% and tag the files you want to keep. Once you go through the folder you delete the files without tags. Ultimately you need to pick a system that works for you. Cheers, Duade
Awesome. Thanks for the detail and for giving two different options. I currently use a much simpler system but sounds like those would be a good way to avoid clutter and identify images easily
Excellent video - thank you! I’ve watch what feels like a thousand videos similar to these concepts but this is the first that makes sense! Your method of explanation is perfection!
What a video man! I have been in photography for a while and i can confirm/recommend to "kinda" stick to the diagram you used for the brigthness (ISO, ss, aperture). Sometimes it's just needed to have a little more darker/brighter image for a good result, but this i normally fix with exposure compensation. Keep up the work and have a nice one :-)
Your videos are like a library of info for a wildlife beginner like me. As a user of Micro Four Thirds, ISO and noise are my arch enemies. I think Topaz could be a great help to me, for my low light photography days. ATB MMMD
Thank you very much, this was a fantastic tutorial. Can I ask you when using a 100-500mm + 1.4x , is it possible to get a image of a group of birds all in focus, If so what f stop should be used ?
Thanks Nancy, given you have 700mm your DOF is very, very narrow. So unless you are a long way away it is very hard to get multiple birds sharp if they are not in the same focal plane. I will often focus on each bird separately if you have time and then stitch them together in post processing. Changing from say f11 to f16 would make a slight difference but you would need a lot of light and the background becomes more in focus. Cheers, Duade
I do not have much information on camera settings but want to know how lens with aperture 5-6 mm have this much good Bokeh and portrait as I know prime lens lower the aperture like 1.8 or 1.4 will get more bokeh and sharper images.
How on earth these contents hide away in the jungle of RUclips !! I never had such clear understanding on the relationship between the 3 parameters of the triangle. The detailed charts with visual exampls make this an outstanding video. Very thankful Duade for all the hard work put in to make these high quality content to help understand the nuances and techniques.👌
Another awesome tutorial, Duade! It's not more than 2 months since I found your channel and started following! Among al your videos, the histogram one was the most helpful to me. I rather have a question on a different matter. In online wildlife photography forums, I often saw people claiming that with a very high shutter speed, say 1/3200th sec and above, photos might lack sharpness (even with relatively slow subjects) because of the lens-shake. That shake is caused by image stabilization as IS always tends to move to eliminate possible external shakes. 'So you should turn your IS off even handholding the lens while using high shutter speed'. I would very much appreciate if you share your experience and opinion regarding this matter.
G'day Arghyadip, I personally have not encountered camera shake from the IS, I believe certain IS modes are not suitable for use on a tripod so maybe that is what they are referring too. I used a 400 5.6 for many years and that did not have IS, I find with higher SS that it actually reduces the effects of camera shake and you don't really need IS at those speeds anyway. I find the IS helpful at slower shutter speeds and the Fairy Wren in this video was shot hand held at 1/320 which is fairly low but the IS helped keep it sharp. Cheers, Duade 👍
@@Duade Yeah, that was the scene when that question appeared in my mind, seeing the EXIF and you handholding the 500mm. Thanks for sharing! Cheers, stay safe!
Personally I think the aperture settings are relative and your F stop suggestion has little meaning depending on the lens you are using. Meaning, when I shoot with a 600 which has the widest aperture of f4, then add a 2x converter, it is at f8 max aperture. So the term wide open for me is different from using my 85 1.2, which is very sharp stopped down to f2 but still super narrow depth of field but has not so narrow DOF at f9. Where as 600 plus 2x converter is still super narrow depth of field still at f9. On the Canon R5 if you are shooting with the new 800 F11, you don't even have the option to use the F stop settings your suggest. (The world is changing Duade for bird photography and telephoto wildlive in general, I would have never consider and F11 lens in the past, don't get left behind www.wild-eye.com/2020/08/26/the-canon-rf-800mm-f-11-for-wildlife-photography/ ) This is why I think f stop is relative. In the old days, in general photography the term f8 and be there was relevant to the time because most lenses were sharpest at F8. My Canon 400 f2.8 and 600 f4 are very sharp wide open so the term is no longer true or at least we no longer have those restrictions with newer more expensive lenses. Also the closer you are to the subject, the narrower the DOP regardless of the F stop which is also something that should be taken under consideration.
G'day and thanks for your detailed comment. I agree that your aperture will be relative to your lens and distance from subject. But as a guideline your max aperture + 1 stop should give you nice sharp shots and is a good baseline. In general, unless I want a really narrow DOF the majority of my shots fall between f/7.1-9. People can have a play with this calculator if they want to estimate their DOF. www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator/ Cheers, Duade
By far, in light years the best explanations and instruction of the Trinity of photography; ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. Complete knowledge of these three factors is essential to wildlife photography and this video is the reference point for beginners to start with. I've shot for some time now and as I move into wildlife photography with a 600mm lens I find there is a learning curve. Duade nails it in this video. Thanks, Duade.
and thank you very much for your kind comment, I agree getting a solid understanding of exposure will help you long term with any type of photography. Great to hear you are getting into wildlife photography Cheers, Duade
Camera satings are very well explained,it is very useful for some bigginers and also for regular to correct the mistakes ..I learn good tips from this video...Liked Thanks .
Hi - the link to the flowchart has no files in it. Do you have an updated location for those guides? Otherwise, thanks for the video. It was a very nice, concise and well produced!
Get so much from your video as a beginner Duade you explain things in a way that makes s much sense, and even though I have just got my camera and only really played around with it in the back yard the understanding of why it does what it does is starting to input lol and n9w to go play some more to explore the data 😉
I only had to watch till 1 min mark to understand that this is a well thought video for beginners. Really great job and it helps so much with the text combined with pictures when explaining. Thank you very much for helping us understand this hobby better.
Gday, it is a way to measure how much ambient light is available, the higher the LV the brighter it is. It is worked out from what your settings are with a correct exposure. I use this calculator. www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html It is a good way to know how dark it was at the time. Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade, thank you for the very informative video. planning to buy a budget zoom lens for my canon 7D. Confused between 2 of them 1. Canon 70-300mm IS II or Tamron 100-400. I currently use a Canon 55-250 and I always feel I am falling short when it comes to zoom capability. Can you or any one of you experts reading help. Have searched the net but I only find comparisons and not feedback
G'day Azee, I would go with the Tamron as it gives a lot more focal length, with the 7D you times the focal length by 1.6 for the full frame equivalent. So the 400 becomes a 640mm whilst the 300 is 480mm. You will definitely notice the extra reach of the 400. It does let in a little less light at 6.3 and you will likely need to shoot at f8 for sharpest results. Good luck, Cheers, Duade 👍
I usually watch the landscape photography videos, but yours popped into my feed today. As a teacher, I have to say you did a great job putting together this info and delivering it. Great video, will have to check out some of your others!
Thanks Berry, I appreciate the feedback, wildlife and birds in particular can be a very rewarding form of photography, after the sun has risen you can put away the short lens and go birding. 😀👍 Cheers, Duade 👍
Such a clear explanation how the 3 elements work together. I specially love the explanation of the 5 different settings and with the points of attention for choosing the good one. Duade you have the talent of explaining things very simply and clearly. I'll keep on watching your videos!
Awesome video, great content! Not new to making photos but new to the world of wildlife photography, your explanations are so concise and very much appreciated. Subscribed and glad I did!
Duade you have the knack of explaining things very simply and clearly. Looking forward to your review of gimbal heads and tripods I am keeping my eye out on the Benro tripods as you suggested.
As a complete beginner, your channel is now my bible. I have no patience watching videos, but you're very natural and easy to listen to. Just bought my first camera, and although it's not a "pro" camera, there's still a jungle of settings to understand. I've taken screenshots of the charts and will experiment when the rain stops (if ever). Thank you so much for your videos, makes being a noob a bit easier. It's much appreciated.
Maiken, that is great to hear, thanks for taking the time to comment. Good luck with your photography. There really is no substitute for time out with the camera, so have fun and explore. Cheers, Duade
Hey Duade, Another Masterclass from your front yard. I honestly wish that you and Jan were around making DVD's 10years ago and maybe my journey through digital photography might not have been such a stressful event. Congratulations mate, another job seriously, well done. Bruce.
G'day Gayan, thanks for your comment. I did use my old 40D with the Canon 400 2.8IS II in this video ruclips.net/video/_BXo0tbXCi0/видео.html, I think I use it in the second half of the video. I have also used my old 400 5.6 extensively with newer cameras such as my recent R6 review. ruclips.net/video/RhBqtxxc6Iw/видео.html Cheers, Duade
Great video Duade, and I’m really glad I found your channel. So I’m wondering. Do you ever use a speed light with an extender in the field for birds? If so, what settings do you use for that. If not why did you decide against it? Thanks...
G'day Jim, when I started photographing birds, I did the majority of it in sunlight at the beach or lake where flash is not required. Over time I become used to not using flash and I never invested in the proper brackets, batteries etc. I also find it a bit of a hassle to setup etc. I am also pretty happy with how my photos turn out without flash. But in saying that I do not to invest in the proper gear and learn how to use flash effectively for those times it comes in very handy. My good friend Jan uses flash and has a great video explaining how to use it here ruclips.net/video/Gb7e2cfgrPg/видео.html Cheers, Duade
A very enlightening (no pun intended) and carefully produced video. Definitely a video to watch if you want to learn photography. Duade is a natural teacher. A very pleasant man.
Dileepa, the max I used was ISO1600 but I took the majority of shots between 400-800. Just try to ensure the exposure is correct and the background is a light colour, that will help reduce the noise. Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade I extend my heartfelt gratitude for the exceptional channel you continue to deliver. Your ability to combine in-depth knowledge with an easy-to-follow teaching style is truly remarkable. Your passion for photography shines through in every video, making complex concepts accessible and engaging. The clarity with which you explaine each technique and the practical examples you provide make a significant impact on my learning experience. Thank you once again for your dedication and expertise. I am excited to apply the skills and insights gained from your videos.
G'day Karl, it's trial and error but usually adding a stop to your max aperture is a good guide. So if your lens max aperture is 5.6 then f8 is often best. If its 6.3 then f9. But of course you have to have the light available to use these settings. Good luck trying this out. Cheers, Duade 👍
Question…….I live in the UK and our weather is mostly dull or overcast except during summer months, if I purchase the Sigma 150-600 will I be able to get good exposure using my Canon 90D and if so will I also need to use software such as Topaz Denoise. Thanks
I really appreciated this video. I have to go back to take notes. I'm a painter in Los Angeles with no photography experience. I love to paint wildlife. I'll probably get eaten by a bear trying to get my own reference photos. I was considering a Panasonic G9 + Leica 200mm F2.8 for easier price range.
Today I was able to view your video on the R6 MII. Are you saying the new R6 MII is better for wildlife photography then the R5. I’m looking to move from the 5D MIV to the mirrorless and need your honest opinion. For the cost I’m leaning to the new R6 MII. I may keep the 5D MIV for portrait and wedding photography.
Hi Duade - Really enjoyed this video and again have taken away some excellent tips and want to try out some of your setting suggestions. I have a couple of queries regarding your Auto ISO Exposure Flow Chart - Static Birds: I have a Canon 90D with a Canon EF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 L IS USM lens. On the flow chart should I be using ISO 3200 in the Dark Setting and ISO 1600 in the Medium Settings? Also should I also reduce the ISO in the Bright Setting as there is no note on the bottom of the flow chart for this setting? The same question for the Manual Exposure Flow Chart too please which I assume would be the same? Hope this is clear and look forward to hearing from you. Best Regards Sheila
Hi Sheila, it all depends on how much ambient light you have. Your 90D will have more noise then a FF camera so trying to keep the ISO at 1600 or lower should be your goal, however in the forest or heavily overcast you may have to use ISO3200. If you use Auto ISO adjust your SS and Aperture until your ISO is at a number you are happy with. If it was dark you will likely have to shoot wide open at 5.6 and a SS of say 1/400, if your ISO is over 3200 then you would have to reduce your SS until the ISO reached 3200, this may end up with a SS of 1/200 which would likely need a tripod and may lead to blurry shots. Shooting in low light is really tough and to be avoided as the camera will likely struggle. If you shoot in in light cloud then you can set your aperture to say 7.1 and a SS of 1/400 and check your ISO, your goal should be ISO1600 or lower. Finally, in bright light with the sun you have a lot of flexibility, you could set your aperture at f9 a SS of 1/800 and your ISO will likely be around 800 or lower which will result in high quality shots. Take your camera outside the house and practice changing your SS and Aperture and seeing how it impacts the ISO. Good luck, Cheers, Duade
Why all the concern about blurring the background in camera? Can’t you just do that in photoshop? I must be missing something. Thanks for being the worlds best teacher. Please keep it up.
Ravi, at this stage I do not have a PDF which is available for free. If you would like me to put the charts into a PDF I could do so for an amount you can afford via PayPal to www.paypal.me/DuadePaton Once received I will email the PDF. Cheers, Duade
A great tutorial Duade . Having watched this and then photographed your suggestion settings on my phone I headed out into the field. At dawn yesterday I saw a Bittern that I wanted to capture. I used a wide open aperture, high ISO but couldnt get my shutter speed below 1/1000. This ultimately led to a very under exposed, grainy photograph. Having returned home I have noted that I cannot get my shutter speed uner 1/1000 which suggests another setting is limiting how low I can go on shutter speed. I am using a Canon 1DX MKII with a 500mm Prime Lens and yesterday I useds a 1.4x extender. Any ideas how I can get that shutter speed down?
That'll teach me for having a camera body with so/too many options. I have now worked it out and will test out your suggested settings. Keep up the good work. Best, Steven
Sorry to hear about your frustration, I messed up my exposure numerous times also, it is about getting out there and with trial and error it will improve. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade If it was easy everyone would be doing it wouldnt that. I now feel confident, with the help of your videos, to now get the set up just right for all conditions. Thank-you 👍
Hi I had a question on aperture for Canon crop factor sensors. If I'm shooting at 300mm, (thus a FF equivalent of around 500mm) at f5.6, would the depth of field be similar to that of around f8, thus not requiring me to step down my aperture to get the bird in focus? Or would you still recommend to just to get the extra sharpness, at the cost of a higher iso and a noisy background.
My understanding is that a crop body actually increases the depth of field by about a stop. So a 500mm 5.6 on a full frame will have a shallower DOF or a smoother bg than a 500 5.6 equivalent on a crop body. This doesn't really matter that much, I would always suggest an aperture between 7.1-9 regardless of the crop factor. Cheers, Duade 👍 If you have low light and your iso is too high then reduce the aperture until you are happy.
If f8 is a good and common setting for aperture in wildlife photography then what is the real advantage of spending more money on lenses that are f2.8 for instance? And thank you for a great instructional video.
Thank you so much sir! I sub your channel after watching few of your vids, very detailed infos and well explained, especially for people like me who are still relatively new to photography.
Duade do you have a walk about set of cheat sheets I know they are out there but honestly I rather go with another Aussie who is working in close to the same settings as I would be in my area. I am trying to get a little more serious about bird photography but my memory isn't the best. So if you bought out cheat sheets just like what you were taking about this section and then other area's I know I would dip my hand in my pocket for a set of them. Could you please give this some consideration as it would come in handy for the likes of me and I am sure I am not the only one out there. Yes I know I could watch this over and over again until some of it stuck but if I had a small sheet explaining all or a cut down version to give me the right idea to go with would be great. Great video mate and all the best Ralph.
![NOSFERATU - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters December 25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nulvWqYUM8k/mqdefault.jpg)
This 20-min video gives you most of the fundamentals of an entire week-long photography class, with none of the confusion. The explanations and diagrams are crystal clear. I've watched about a dozen photography videos on RUclips, and this one is by far the best. I should have started here, but better late than never.
G'day Bruce, welcome to the channel, thank you for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it. It takes me awhile to put these videos together but I am happy to hear they are helpful. Cheers, Duade 👍
I absolutely agree!!!!
I third that! Super informative. Thank you for taking the time.
I really appreciate how you show not only the raw and final image but also show the shots that don't work and explain why. In a world where people only ever see perfection and none of the mistakes that all have to own and understand to get there, these videos are really refreshing. I'm new to wildlife photography and still finding my feet trying to beat that dreaded high number of soft shots stage haha, slowly getting there!
I think it is really important to show the failures and reassure people that everybody takes soft shots etc, it is how we learn and improve. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade absolutely!
I do enjoy your content and when I'm asked to help/teach someone want to learn more about photography, I also get that person to watch your videos as you are easily understood by the student.
Thanks Phil, I really appreciate it, take care, Duade.
@@Duade no worries.
I have watched this video multiple times over the past few years. Seriously, as a starting photographer, this is incredible.
Thank you for the link to the flow charts
It is my pleasure, Cheers, Duade
I´ve been shooting birds in my yarrd and now I understand why there were not all in focus, just the heads, or some parts.. Awesome video!
Great to hear Daniel, have fun with your photography. Cheers, Duade
Thank you for making an explenation for people to actually understand why and what they are doing.
G'day, it's my pleasure, I am happy to hear people find it useful. Cheers, Duade 👍
Very good explanation. Thanks Duade. Wow thanks for all those charts
G'day Peter, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade 👍
Very nice explained,your style of explanation is very understandable, simple and interesting.
G'day Amit, thanks for the feedback, Cheers, Duade
Tnx for sharing 👍
my pleasure, Cheers, Duade
I’ve just come across this video Duade and have to say that it’s one of the best I’ve seen on this subject, ever! I’d advice anyone taking up wildlife photography to watch over and over again and screenshot all the graphs to keep as a permanent reminder of how it should be done! now subscribed and will take a peek at the other videos 👍📷
G'day Terry, thank you very much for the positive feedback, I appreciate it. I am happy to hear you found it useful and thanks for the sub. Cheers, Duade
What a great video that does not just explain the various players in easy to understand terms but also how they work together and how varying the components will change your picture - and all with nice examples. Your tip on keeping the aperture at a certain range makes so much sense. This will help me tremendously although it probably will hurt my wallet since my 10 year old Canon Rebel is pretty "noisy", LOL! Thanks for a wonderful lesson! Looking forward to learning from you in all your other videos!!
G'day Karin, thank you so much for your detailed comment, glad to hear you found it useful. You could either wait for an affordable mirrorless body or look at second hand 5d3 or 4 which has much better noise handling capabilities. Good luck, Cheers, Duade 👍
I just stumbled across your channel and this video is excellent!
I am happy you found the video, welcome, Cheers, Duade
Very informative duade 👍👍👍one of the best channels on RUclips... Cheers
Thanks Manash, I appreciate the feedback and continued support. Cheers, Duade 👍
You’re videos are very informative and are helping me improve my photography and knowledge of birds!😃
G'day Moe, that is great to hear. Cheers, Duade
Thank you Duade Paton👍
Thank you 😊
I have enjoyed and learnt something from every single one of your videos, so informative and you are a natural teacher. Thank you for producing these.
G'day Dale? You are very welcome; I am glad you found them helpful. Cheers, Duade
Thank you Duade! Very informative
G'day, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade 👍
Thanks for your clarity mate and your useful information! 👍🏻
My pleasure Dale, Cheers, Duade 👍
Great video thank you
G'day Matty, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade 👍
Great video!!! Thanks mate.
Wonderful.
Thank you, Cheers, Duade
Wow, this is another great video. Great information thanks Duade. Are you able to share the graphics you use in this video. They would be so helpful. Cheers Bryan
G'day Bryan, unfortunately I don't have those graphics handy, you could screenshot the video into a word document and print from there perhaps. Cheers, Duade
You asked in one of your videos what was the worst mistake you have made taking photos……… well for me it was buying a camera 2 yrs ago…… 😂 just joking ,! But that how it feels most of the time . I’ve spent Hrs watching Utube, I go out everyday, this morning I took 125 photos with only around 3 I consider fair……. I’m using a Sigma 120-400 DC 1:4.5-5.6 APRO HSM …. On a Nikon D750 ,THE PROBLEM, soft photos, I’ve spent many days chasing Blue Wrens etc. I enjoy your videos and thank you for the information, they get me out everyday but cause me some sleepless nights trying to figure out where I went wrong the previous day .Regards 😊
Most clear and concise "lectures" I have seen. Pity I never had these resources 10 years ago. Thanks so much.
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback, Cheers, Duade 👍
I shoot in mostly heavy forested areas and small birds, my issue is that I always have to use a very high iso, therefore, I rely on post to recover details. and another challenge for me is the fast change in light conditions and the birds won't wait for you to change settings.....wish there were pre-settings to just flip to when this happens.
G'day Ernest, sounds like tough conditions, I usually set my ISO and aperture and then can quickly change the SS with a dial, so I can quickly change to adapt to the light. Cheers, Duade 👍
Excellent discussion Duade. Most of the birds I shoot are in heavily forested areas with lots of dappled light. Ever consider doing a piece on how handle that kind of situation?
Thanks Jack, it is a real challenge and I usually try to only shoot in the forest on overcast days. If the sun is out I try to find an area in shade for the background as dappled light is almost impossible to deal with. Cheers. Duade
This is one of your best 👌 videos that you have done so informative I keep comming back to this video to refresh what to learn
Great to hear it was helpful, Cheers, Duade
Been photograhing the Superb Fairy Wrens that hang around outside my office. Beautiful birds although my skills arent quite there yet.
G'day Chris, great to hear, good luck with the Fairy-wrens. Cheers, Duade 👍
Loved this, just started with wildlife shooting Hares in the Uk, low light is causing me problems as am using a Tamron 18-400. At 400 f5.6 is wide open and my canon 760d doesn’t handle high iso very well, any suggestions would be appreciated! Keep up the great work 👍🏻
Andy, yes low light is always a challenge and all cameras struggle with it. FF camera handle it much better but you lose the 1.6 crop factor. If you have not tried it I highly suggest downloading a trial of DXOPureRaw2 tidd.ly/3hH0Kta and using it on some of your noisy RAW files, you will be amazed at what it can do. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade thank you. I’ve been looking into Topaz for the same thing, but had nothing to compare it too. I’ll try both, can’t do any harm 👍
Duade your videos are absolutely mind blowingly good. I am a beginner and your explanations, video production, visual examples are perfect for learning. Thanks so much. PS: I was wondering, for people like me who have less time and memory card flexibility, what tips you might have for actually archiving and organizing the images in a useful way to curate your content, find best photos etc. (I'll be watching your video on choosing the best shot soon)
Hi Kuthan, thank you for your kind comment. Yes, file organising can be a challenge, but it is important to get a system going so you do not become overwhelmed with files. I do it slightly different to most people. After a session I actually review the images on the back of the camera(I zoom into 100% to check sharpness) and I give a rating to only the best images of any burst or series. I rate them from 1 star for a keeper to 5 stars being the best. I estimate I keep between 5-15% of shots depending on the species. I then import those files into a new folder that is sorted by year, month, date and location. Once the files are imported into Lightroom, I sort by rating and the highest rating shots come straight to the top. I delete all the images with no rating attached. This way I only keep the top images from each session, and I don't get hard drives filled with images I will never use. The popular way to do it is to download all your files onto a hard drive and view them in a program such as Faststone image viewer. Zoom into 100% and tag the files you want to keep. Once you go through the folder you delete the files without tags. Ultimately you need to pick a system that works for you. Cheers, Duade
Awesome. Thanks for the detail and for giving two different options. I currently use a much simpler system but sounds like those would be a good way to avoid clutter and identify images easily
Excellent video. You're killing it mate. Easy to see why your channek has become so popular. Well done. 👍👍
Thanks mate, I appreciate the feedback, Cheers, Duade 👍
Excellent video - thank you! I’ve watch what feels like a thousand videos similar to these concepts but this is the first that makes sense! Your method of explanation is perfection!
Anna, thank you for taking the time to comment, I am happy to hear the video helped, Cheers, Duade
What a video man! I have been in photography for a while and i can confirm/recommend to "kinda" stick to the diagram you used for the brigthness (ISO, ss, aperture). Sometimes it's just needed to have a little more darker/brighter image for a good result, but this i normally fix with exposure compensation. Keep up the work and have a nice one :-)
Thanks, yes, exp comp works well, as long as we are not too dark or bright the images will be great. Cheers, Duade
Your videos are like a library of info for a wildlife beginner like me. As a user of Micro Four Thirds, ISO and noise are my arch enemies. I think Topaz could be a great help to me, for my low light photography days. ATB MMMD
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it, I hope to give M4/3rs a go soon. Cheers, Duade
Thank you very much, this was a fantastic tutorial. Can I ask you when using a 100-500mm + 1.4x , is it possible to get a image of a group of birds all in focus, If so what f stop should be used ?
Thanks Nancy, given you have 700mm your DOF is very, very narrow. So unless you are a long way away it is very hard to get multiple birds sharp if they are not in the same focal plane. I will often focus on each bird separately if you have time and then stitch them together in post processing. Changing from say f11 to f16 would make a slight difference but you would need a lot of light and the background becomes more in focus. Cheers, Duade
I do not have much information on camera settings but want to know how lens with aperture 5-6 mm have this much good Bokeh and portrait as I know prime lens lower the aperture like 1.8 or 1.4 will get more bokeh and sharper images.
How on earth these contents hide away in the jungle of RUclips !! I never had such clear understanding on the relationship between the 3 parameters of the triangle. The detailed charts with visual exampls make this an outstanding video. Very thankful Duade for all the hard work put in to make these high quality content to help understand the nuances and techniques.👌
Thanks John, you are too kind and I am happy you found the video, Cheers, Duade
Another awesome tutorial, Duade! It's not more than 2 months since I found your channel and started following! Among al your videos, the histogram one was the most helpful to me. I rather have a question on a different matter. In online wildlife photography forums, I often saw people claiming that with a very high shutter speed, say 1/3200th sec and above, photos might lack sharpness (even with relatively slow subjects) because of the lens-shake. That shake is caused by image stabilization as IS always tends to move to eliminate possible external shakes. 'So you should turn your IS off even handholding the lens while using high shutter speed'. I would very much appreciate if you share your experience and opinion regarding this matter.
G'day Arghyadip, I personally have not encountered camera shake from the IS, I believe certain IS modes are not suitable for use on a tripod so maybe that is what they are referring too. I used a 400 5.6 for many years and that did not have IS, I find with higher SS that it actually reduces the effects of camera shake and you don't really need IS at those speeds anyway. I find the IS helpful at slower shutter speeds and the Fairy Wren in this video was shot hand held at 1/320 which is fairly low but the IS helped keep it sharp. Cheers, Duade 👍
@@Duade Yeah, that was the scene when that question appeared in my mind, seeing the EXIF and you handholding the 500mm. Thanks for sharing! Cheers, stay safe!
@@PhotographerSen I often hand hold the 500 but it does become heavy over time. I would.much prefer a lighter lens. Cheers, Duade 👍
Superb explanation simplified the complex subject. Well demonstrated. Thanks for the tutorial n
Thanks for the feedback, glad it was helpful, Cheers, Duade
Front Yard Envy...... really well explained, took screenshots 👍
yes, I am very fortunate to live where I do. Cheers, Duade
Excellent advice/comments... very interesting and informative video ... cheers 😀
Robert, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade
Personally I think the aperture settings are relative and your F stop suggestion has little meaning depending on the lens you are using. Meaning, when I shoot with a 600 which has the widest aperture of f4, then add a 2x converter, it is at f8 max aperture. So the term wide open for me is different from using my 85 1.2, which is very sharp stopped down to f2 but still super narrow depth of field but has not so narrow DOF at f9. Where as 600 plus 2x converter is still super narrow depth of field still at f9. On the Canon R5 if you are shooting with the new 800 F11, you don't even have the option to use the F stop settings your suggest. (The world is changing Duade for bird photography and telephoto wildlive in general, I would have never consider and F11 lens in the past, don't get left behind www.wild-eye.com/2020/08/26/the-canon-rf-800mm-f-11-for-wildlife-photography/ ) This is why I think f stop is relative. In the old days, in general photography the term f8 and be there was relevant to the time because most lenses were sharpest at F8. My Canon 400 f2.8 and 600 f4 are very sharp wide open so the term is no longer true or at least we no longer have those restrictions with newer more expensive lenses. Also the closer you are to the subject, the narrower the DOP regardless of the F stop which is also something that should be taken under consideration.
G'day and thanks for your detailed comment. I agree that your aperture will be relative to your lens and distance from subject. But as a guideline your max aperture + 1 stop should give you nice sharp shots and is a good baseline. In general, unless I want a really narrow DOF the majority of my shots fall between f/7.1-9. People can have a play with this calculator if they want to estimate their DOF. www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator/ Cheers, Duade
Greate explanation - best on YT I ever saw. Now my „?????“ are gone? 🤓. You make me a better photographer. 👍🙏🏻 Duade
G'day Wolfgang, you are too kind, I'm glad the videos are helpful. Cheers, Duade 👍
By far, in light years the best explanations and instruction of the Trinity of photography; ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. Complete knowledge of these three factors is essential to wildlife photography and this video is the reference point for beginners to start with. I've shot for some time now and as I move into wildlife photography with a 600mm lens I find there is a learning curve. Duade nails it in this video. Thanks, Duade.
and thank you very much for your kind comment, I agree getting a solid understanding of exposure will help you long term with any type of photography. Great to hear you are getting into wildlife photography Cheers, Duade
Brilliant video. Love from Ireland 🇮🇪 I’ve just came across your channel
Andrew, thanks for the feedback, hope all is well in Ireland. Cheers, Duade
Sweet! Your coupon worked for the Bundle set from Topaz Labs too! Not just DeNoise, I was able to get them all with a 15% discount. Thanks!
Kevin, that is great to hear, enjoy, Cheers, Duade
Camera satings are very well explained,it is very useful for some bigginers and also for regular to correct the mistakes ..I learn good tips from this video...Liked Thanks .
G'day Mitul, thank you for the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful, Cheers, Duade
Thank you so much Duane. I am a complete beginner and this video was great. I just have to learn how to drive my new OM-1!
Thanks Lisa, I am glad it was helpful, Cheers, Duade
Hi - the link to the flowchart has no files in it. Do you have an updated location for those guides?
Otherwise, thanks for the video. It was a very nice, concise and well produced!
David, apologies, not sure what happened there, I have updated the link which should work now. Cheers, Duade
Wow fantastic video thanks for sharing it. You have a very soothing voice. You should consider doing podcasts as well. I think you would be a hit.
Thanks for the feedback, yes, a podcast could be fun. Cheers, Duade
Your video are always informative and treat to watch..love the way u capture the birds 🐦👍 👌 👍 👌
I am glad you are enjoying them, Cheers, Duade
Get so much from your video as a beginner Duade you explain things in a way that makes s much sense, and even though I have just got my camera and only really played around with it in the back yard the understanding of why it does what it does is starting to input lol and n9w to go play some more to explore the data 😉
Selina, that is great to hear, I am so happy the video is helpful, have fun learning and practicing, it is the only way to improve. Cheers, Duade
I only had to watch till 1 min mark to understand that this is a well thought video for beginners. Really great job and it helps so much with the text combined with pictures when explaining. Thank you very much for helping us understand this hobby better.
Thanks Jay, I appreciate the feedback, good luck with your photography. Cheers, Duade
Amazing explanation! Greetings from Costa Rica!.
Joseph, thanks for the comment, Cheers, Duade
Loved the outtakes haha. Greetings from Germany! Awesome content :)
Thanks Matthias, glad you are enjoying the content, Cheers, Duade
Very informative video...Thanks for sharing 👍
G'day, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade
Love the video. Would buy the charts if they are available...Let me know?
G'day Steve, feel free to send me an email to duade.paton@gmail.com and we can work something out. Cheers, Duade
what does a light value of 14.67 mean and how do I know what the light value is when I'm taking photos?
Gday, it is a way to measure how much ambient light is available, the higher the LV the brighter it is. It is worked out from what your settings are with a correct exposure. I use this calculator. www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html
It is a good way to know how dark it was at the time. Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade, thank you for the very informative video. planning to buy a budget zoom lens for my canon 7D. Confused between 2 of them 1. Canon 70-300mm IS II or Tamron 100-400. I currently use a Canon 55-250 and I always feel I am falling short when it comes to zoom capability. Can you or any one of you experts reading help. Have searched the net but I only find comparisons and not feedback
G'day Azee, I would go with the Tamron as it gives a lot more focal length, with the 7D you times the focal length by 1.6 for the full frame equivalent. So the 400 becomes a 640mm whilst the 300 is 480mm. You will definitely notice the extra reach of the 400. It does let in a little less light at 6.3 and you will likely need to shoot at f8 for sharpest results. Good luck, Cheers, Duade 👍
Thanks a ton Duade ! Will surely take your word for it and go for the Tamron 100-400. Cheers.
I usually watch the landscape photography videos, but yours popped into my feed today. As a teacher, I have to say you did a great job putting together this info and delivering it. Great video, will have to check out some of your others!
Thanks Berry, I appreciate the feedback, wildlife and birds in particular can be a very rewarding form of photography, after the sun has risen you can put away the short lens and go birding. 😀👍 Cheers, Duade 👍
Does the lens camocover didn't effect the heat produced true the lens? I thougt canon made it white to reflect the sunlight, avoiding high temps?
Such a clear explanation how the 3 elements work together. I specially love the explanation of the 5 different settings and with the points of attention for choosing the good one. Duade you have the talent of explaining things very simply and clearly. I'll keep on watching your videos!
Thank you so much! I will apply these at my next shooting :)
my pleasure, good luck, Cheers, Duade
Awesome video, great content! Not new to making photos but new to the world of wildlife photography, your explanations are so concise and very much appreciated. Subscribed and glad I did!
G'day Chris, thank you very much for the sub and feedback, good luck with your wildlife photography, it can become very addicting so beware😀👍
Love this video, specially the explanation of the 5 different settings and where you had to choose wich one was the right one.
Thanks for the feedback, Cheers, Duade
Duade you have the knack of explaining things very simply and clearly. Looking forward to your review of gimbal heads and tripods I am keeping my eye out on the Benro tripods as you suggested.
G'day Andrew, thanks for the feedback, I plan to do the gimbal video late August. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade OK I was thinking of a Benro GH2... but I will have to wait
This is a video I’ve been looking for. Explains how the 3 elements work together. Thank you so much
Marc, it is my pleasure, I'm glad it helped, Cheers, Duade
I'm going to watch this tutorial every week until it sinks in. Thanks Duade
Thanks Dylan, I am sure it will sink in soon, Cheers, Duade
As a complete beginner, your channel is now my bible. I have no patience watching videos, but you're very natural and easy to listen to. Just bought my first camera, and although it's not a "pro" camera, there's still a jungle of settings to understand. I've taken screenshots of the charts and will experiment when the rain stops (if ever). Thank you so much for your videos, makes being a noob a bit easier. It's much appreciated.
Maiken, that is great to hear, thanks for taking the time to comment. Good luck with your photography. There really is no substitute for time out with the camera, so have fun and explore. Cheers, Duade
Such a good explanation with examples.
Glad to hear it was helpful, Cheers, Duade
Hey Duade,
Another Masterclass from your front yard. I honestly wish that you and Jan were around making DVD's 10years ago and maybe my journey through digital photography might not have been such a stressful event. Congratulations mate, another job seriously, well done.
Bruce.
G'day Bruce, better late than never I guess, I am happy to hear you are finding our channels helpful. Take care, Duade
Well presented and explained buddy! Just sent it to a friend who I was explaining it to the other day, you do a much better job than I did lol 😂😉👌👍
Thanks JP, yes it can be very confusing to explain, it took me some time to understand it myself. Cheers, Duade
Hey duade, great video again. can you do a video with old camera with advanced lens. And it's opposite also.
That would be helpful. Thanks
G'day Gayan, thanks for your comment. I did use my old 40D with the Canon 400 2.8IS II in this video ruclips.net/video/_BXo0tbXCi0/видео.html, I think I use it in the second half of the video. I have also used my old 400 5.6 extensively with newer cameras such as my recent R6 review. ruclips.net/video/RhBqtxxc6Iw/видео.html Cheers, Duade
@@Duade will see. Thank you.
Great video Duade, and I’m really glad I found your channel. So I’m wondering. Do you ever use a speed light with an extender in the field for birds? If so, what settings do you use for that. If not why did you decide against it? Thanks...
G'day Jim, when I started photographing birds, I did the majority of it in sunlight at the beach or lake where flash is not required. Over time I become used to not using flash and I never invested in the proper brackets, batteries etc. I also find it a bit of a hassle to setup etc. I am also pretty happy with how my photos turn out without flash. But in saying that I do not to invest in the proper gear and learn how to use flash effectively for those times it comes in very handy. My good friend Jan uses flash and has a great video explaining how to use it here ruclips.net/video/Gb7e2cfgrPg/видео.html Cheers, Duade
A very enlightening (no pun intended) and carefully produced video. Definitely a video to watch if you want to learn photography. Duade is a natural teacher. A very pleasant man.
Thank you, I appreciate it, Cheers, Duade
Thank you for the Video, what is the Max ISO you recommend for Canon 7D Mark II camera.
Dileepa, the max I used was ISO1600 but I took the majority of shots between 400-800. Just try to ensure the exposure is correct and the background is a light colour, that will help reduce the noise. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Thank you very much.
The best vdo so far I watched on photography 💝👌
Thank you, I am glad it helped, Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade I extend my heartfelt gratitude for the exceptional channel you continue to deliver. Your ability to combine in-depth knowledge with an easy-to-follow teaching style is truly remarkable.
Your passion for photography shines through in every video, making complex concepts accessible and engaging. The clarity with which you explaine each technique and the practical examples you provide make a significant impact on my learning experience.
Thank you once again for your dedication and expertise. I am excited to apply the skills and insights gained from your videos.
Thank you for awesome content and information. Very nicely explained, and very much appreciated. Thank you
Great video with excellent explanation. How you would determine which f stop achieves the best focus? Thanks
G'day Karl, it's trial and error but usually adding a stop to your max aperture is a good guide. So if your lens max aperture is 5.6 then f8 is often best. If its 6.3 then f9. But of course you have to have the light available to use these settings. Good luck trying this out. Cheers, Duade 👍
Question…….I live in the UK and our weather is mostly dull or overcast except during summer months, if I purchase the Sigma 150-600 will I be able to get good exposure using my Canon 90D and if so will I also need to use software such as Topaz Denoise. Thanks
I really appreciated this video. I have to go back to take notes. I'm a painter in Los Angeles with no photography experience. I love to paint wildlife. I'll probably get eaten by a bear trying to get my own reference photos. I was considering a Panasonic G9 + Leica 200mm F2.8 for easier price range.
Today I was able to view your video on the R6 MII. Are you saying the new R6 MII is better for wildlife photography then the R5. I’m looking to move from the 5D MIV to the mirrorless and need your honest opinion. For the cost I’m leaning to the new R6 MII. I may keep the 5D MIV for portrait and wedding photography.
Hey :) If you set your Aperture to F7.1 or F8.0, can’t you just overexpose the image if you would like to also have a shutterspeed of 1/2000 or more?
Thanks for this excellent explanation of how the three components work together. The charts and graphs are really helpful.
Debra, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade - Really enjoyed this video and again have taken away some excellent tips and want to try out some of your setting suggestions. I have a couple of queries regarding your Auto ISO Exposure Flow Chart - Static Birds: I have a Canon 90D with a Canon EF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 L IS USM lens. On the flow chart should I be using ISO 3200 in the Dark Setting and ISO 1600 in the Medium Settings? Also should I also reduce the ISO in the Bright Setting as there is no note on the bottom of the flow chart for this setting? The same question for the Manual Exposure Flow Chart too please which I assume would be the same? Hope this is clear and look forward to hearing from you. Best Regards Sheila
Hi Sheila, it all depends on how much ambient light you have. Your 90D will have more noise then a FF camera so trying to keep the ISO at 1600 or lower should be your goal, however in the forest or heavily overcast you may have to use ISO3200.
If you use Auto ISO adjust your SS and Aperture until your ISO is at a number you are happy with. If it was dark you will likely have to shoot wide open at 5.6 and a SS of say 1/400, if your ISO is over 3200 then you would have to reduce your SS until the ISO reached 3200, this may end up with a SS of 1/200 which would likely need a tripod and may lead to blurry shots. Shooting in low light is really tough and to be avoided as the camera will likely struggle.
If you shoot in in light cloud then you can set your aperture to say 7.1 and a SS of 1/400 and check your ISO, your goal should be ISO1600 or lower.
Finally, in bright light with the sun you have a lot of flexibility, you could set your aperture at f9 a SS of 1/800 and your ISO will likely be around 800 or lower which will result in high quality shots.
Take your camera outside the house and practice changing your SS and Aperture and seeing how it impacts the ISO. Good luck, Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Thanks Duade will get out there and give it a go. Cheers Sheila
@@sheilawilliams6150 Good luck, Cheers, Duade
Why all the concern about blurring the background in camera? Can’t you just do that in photoshop? I must be missing something. Thanks for being the worlds best teacher. Please keep it up.
Hey mate! Awesome video. How can I download the tables and charts shown in your video. Many thanks
Ravi, at this stage I do not have a PDF which is available for free. If you would like me to put the charts into a PDF I could do so for an amount you can afford via PayPal to www.paypal.me/DuadePaton Once received I will email the PDF. Cheers, Duade
Hey mate! Many thanks for the reply. Happy to pay for the content. Talk to you soon. Good day!
This might explain why my Mallard photos are always not very sharp. I’ve been shooting handheld at around 1/80-120 of a second 😂
A great tutorial Duade . Having watched this and then photographed your suggestion settings on my phone I headed out into the field. At dawn yesterday I saw a Bittern that I wanted to capture. I used a wide open aperture, high ISO but couldnt get my shutter speed below 1/1000. This ultimately led to a very under exposed, grainy photograph. Having returned home I have noted that I cannot get my shutter speed uner 1/1000 which suggests another setting is limiting how low I can go on shutter speed. I am using a Canon 1DX MKII with a 500mm Prime Lens and yesterday I useds a 1.4x extender. Any ideas how I can get that shutter speed down?
That'll teach me for having a camera body with so/too many options. I have now worked it out and will test out your suggested settings. Keep up the good work. Best, Steven
Sorry to hear about your frustration, I messed up my exposure numerous times also, it is about getting out there and with trial and error it will improve. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade If it was easy everyone would be doing it wouldnt that. I now feel confident, with the help of your videos, to now get the set up just right for all conditions. Thank-you 👍
Excellent tutorial. Thank you!
Sandip, my pleasure, Cheers, Duade
Hi I had a question on aperture for Canon crop factor sensors. If I'm shooting at 300mm, (thus a FF equivalent of around 500mm) at f5.6, would the depth of field be similar to that of around f8, thus not requiring me to step down my aperture to get the bird in focus? Or would you still recommend to just to get the extra sharpness, at the cost of a higher iso and a noisy background.
My understanding is that a crop body actually increases the depth of field by about a stop. So a 500mm 5.6 on a full frame will have a shallower DOF or a smoother bg than a 500 5.6 equivalent on a crop body. This doesn't really matter that much, I would always suggest an aperture between 7.1-9 regardless of the crop factor. Cheers, Duade 👍
If you have low light and your iso is too high then reduce the aperture until you are happy.
Thank you for your response! I'll practice with varying apertures and ISO to see which gives me the best results.
@@debroekzakbandiet1844 That is the best way, good luck. Cheers, Duade
Great video mate
Thanks mate 👍
Excellent explanations and illustrations.
Debbie, thank you for your feedback, Cheers, Duade
If f8 is a good and common setting for aperture in wildlife photography then what is the real advantage of spending more money on lenses that are f2.8 for instance? And thank you for a great instructional video.
Thank you so much sir! I sub your channel after watching few of your vids, very detailed infos and well explained, especially for people like me who are still relatively new to photography.
G'day, It's my pleasure, I really want to share my knowledge with everyone. Cheers, Duade
Thanks for this! really well explained. greatings from Chile!
Duade do you have a walk about set of cheat sheets I know they are out there but honestly I rather go with another Aussie who is working in close to the same settings as I would be in my area. I am trying to get a little more serious about bird photography but my memory isn't the best. So if you bought out cheat sheets just like what you were taking about this section and then other area's I know I would dip my hand in my pocket for a set of them. Could you please give this some consideration as it would come in handy for the likes of me and I am sure I am not the only one out there. Yes I know I could watch this over and over again until some of it stuck but if I had a small sheet explaining all or a cut down version to give me the right idea to go with would be great. Great video mate and all the best Ralph.
Please keep these wonderful videos coming Duade.
G'day, thanks and yes I will. Cheers, Duade 👍