@@MadebyWolfe BTW, as I mentioned I would try your technique on a small project i was working on and I can report that everything work out better than I expected, perfect! Thanks, the Miter Joint is going to be my Go-To Joint on many of my future projects!
@@bigpapaporsche1 I am so glad it worked. It really is a great technique to have in your bag of techniques. It can take time to set up, but there is no other way to clamp up long miter joints well. Well done.
Excellent tutorial on the topic, I know where my next 1/4 plywood scraps are going! BTW I blinked and you gained 2500 subs, congrats and well deserved!
Thanks. I hope some people find it useful. Yeah, about the subs, I have a 11 second shorts video with me showing the difference between the dead blow mallet and the regular mallet...and it has over 8 million views. Almost all of the new subs are from that one video. People think it is a game, and many of them think I am pulling a fast one on them. Kinda funny. Thanks for your comment and your encouragement.
I'm currently making something with miters, I made a test piece with the tape method. It went awful, it just opened up and the joint looks terrible. I can probably fix it with a screwdriver (I tried it, it's drying right now) but it really made me wary about gluing the actual project. It was really nice to watch a video that shows an alternative technique, I am going to take my time and prepare the clamping jigs and I am sure it will go much better now thanks to you. Thank you.
Great post! I appreciate the content and the time it took to try to teach others. I am one of those trying to learn more. However I feel like this post isn’t a fair comparison. For starters, if we are just testing clamping methods, why does one joint have biscuits/ dominos but not the other. Also if you rely on the tape method, like I often do, i would tape it much differently. I’m not arguing. The angle clamp is a great method.. but much more time consuming.. for very similar results if done properly. Just in my humble opinion. Looking forward to your response.
Oh man. I just found this after trying the old super glue and 45 cut pieces trick. It did not go well. 😢 Oh well. I know for next time. Great vid. Thanks.
I ran into trouble with my plinth glue up I had a 12 by 30 panels to all glue up and I tried the tape method but it all started falling apart. I should make these going forward
Thanks for the information, I was getting stuck on a particular joint i was trying to attempt and wasn't happy with the result the corner clamps only gave me.
I use heavy wide clear packing tape instead of painter's tape. It seems to hold better and is more durable. Admittedly, squeeze-out negates the benefit of the tape's transparency. I like the control your method allows but I sure wouldn't want to be in a hurry when employing it. I need to work more like that anyway : ) Will try asap.
Hi, love the video. I’m trying to join two long pieces of wood to form a 90 degree angle. It’s part of a fireplace mantle project I’m working on. They are each about 9 feet long. Do you think your clamp method would work here? How far apart could I go with the clamps? Thanks so much.
It should work fine. You may need a lot of clamps, but the principle should work. There are many things that would change the spacing, so you will have to play with this during a dry run. You could try 12" but I think you man need them closer.
There are a couple ways I can interpret sizing in this context...how large the joint is, or applying glue ahead of time and letting it dry. Which do you mean?
Great video. Just curious, have you ever used CA glue in conjunction with your wood glue? I have a fairly large collection of various clamps that I rarely use for their intended purpose. After discovering a friend who's a finish carpenter using CA glue, ill never go back to traditional glue and clamps. I now only use them for alignment. My preferred method for mitered joints is CA glue and wood glue using 3M Scotch fiber strapping tape. Making sure my joint is aligned I press both pieces together for 20 seconds of positioning time and then you have an instant fully cured bond after a minute. The wood glue still has to dry in normal time but using traditional clamping until your piece is fully cured is no longer necessary.
I am not fully tracking you. Do you mix the wood glue and CA, or do you alternate it on the joint? I can surely see the advantage of the quick grabbing CA glue. I have only used it for small things and temporary clamping blocks so far. Would love to hear exactly how you use the two glues on the same joint.
The approach is to put a few dabs of CA glue along the joint and then spread wood glue in the rest of the joint. You’re not mixing the glues, you use the two glues at different sections of the joint. The advantage of this is that the CA glue gives a quick grab of the joint and holds it together whilst the wood glue has time to dry. I’ve seen quite a few youtube woodworkers use this technique for large joints, less time for mis-alignment to occur than just using wood glue
Seems to me that if you are using dominoes or biscuits then there is no need for either the tape or cauls. The angular plane of the floating tenons will transfer the clamping force into the perpendicular such that 3 clamps would hold and compress the mitre regardless of the position of the clamps. Clamping to the rear of the cabinet or across the face frame would yield the same force being transferred into the mitre. The only condition being the clamps should be positioned at the location of the domino if the material is likely to yield or bend under focused clamping force.
Made an 20”x 87” long RWO box shelf with a 2“ band yesterday. I used clamp tape. Works better than any other method hands down. I also miter frames with end panels all the time and I again use clamp tape-you just fold it over on itself and lay it over the box. Your method of taping mitres is very sub par and all together unexplored on your end-respectfully. You don’t tape the whole joint long ways-you hinge it across the mitre. Nailing clamping and the domino method are all much longer in reference to time and more laborious. Gluing the calls on the example you gave was prolly the longest method for joining those two frames. Takes less than 10 minutes to glue those to the box.
I use clear tape only in middle section glue & nail minimally with 18 gauge . Then I square the ends & nail them. Nails are easily hidden, it's true every time, & you don't really have to wait on glue to setup , especially if you use titebond 3.
Depending on the final quality/look you are needing I love your suggestions here and have even used them. I do feel that there are times for higher end cabinetry and furniture that a clean, gap-free, no-nail joint is required, and for those situations clamps will give you better results consistently. Last year I have several posts for a handrail that were mitered on all four corners. For that I actually used old bike tires and stretched them around and around the posts. It actually worked great. There are always many ways to approach a building problem, and it is good to have several techniques you can call on.
Great tutorial, camera work and audio, but... that music is VERY distracting and it's hard to understand what you are saying. It's fine for time lapse.
Interesting explanation of the benefits of clamps over tape. It wasn’t an entirely fair comparison though as you had domino and lamello in the clamped joint for alignment, but not in the blue tape joint so the clamped joint already had a ‘head start’ advantage of being aligned properly. I’ll have to make some of those clamp assists
There are too many variables for your statement to ALWAYS be true. HOWEVER, I don't necessarily disagree with you. I confess to be a overclamper. I am trying to get better. So...the variables are things like, the amount of glue surface area you are clamping, how long the open time is for the glue up, how slippery the wood is on both the cauls and the project itself, and the amount of clamp pressure you can get on the cauls. I find I am more likely to get slippage on larger projects or longer miters. But all that to say, THANKS for the observation and the reminder that it is possible to put too much clamp pressure on a clamp joint!
Lol if you make 4 legs that's easily 28 clamps or more.. no way is this better, plus you used domino.. no way.. miter fold is 20x faster & if you put some degree of effort into it just as quality.
This method is clamp intensive. And I was probably a little too harsh on the tape joint. However, if you want to be guaranteed the best joint for clear finish, I would stand by clamps over tape. So, I do think it is better for making sure there is no joint, but you have good points about the clamp intensity, and speed. So, if the perfect joint is not needed, tape can be a good technique too. Thanks for commenting.
Like the video just wish there was no background music so I can considerate on the subject.
Annoying background music.
the clamping board is really a simple and very efficient way to make perfect joints. thx for showing this.
Best video I've seen in along time, great technique!I've working on a small project now and will use this method tomorrow! Thanks
you are welcome.
@@MadebyWolfe BTW, as I mentioned I would try your technique on a small project i was working on and I can report that everything work out better than I expected, perfect! Thanks, the Miter Joint is going to be my Go-To Joint on many of my future projects!
@@bigpapaporsche1 I am so glad it worked. It really is a great technique to have in your bag of techniques. It can take time to set up, but there is no other way to clamp up long miter joints well. Well done.
I L💙VE this technique !
Another one I saw involved CA glueing those 45 deg clamping cauls on the finish piece. No way, Jose !
Thanks again 👍
Great video thanks. I watched videos with other solutions but your clamping board is my favorite.
Excellent tutorial on the topic, I know where my next 1/4 plywood scraps are going! BTW I blinked and you gained 2500 subs, congrats and well deserved!
Thanks. I hope some people find it useful. Yeah, about the subs, I have a 11 second shorts video with me showing the difference between the dead blow mallet and the regular mallet...and it has over 8 million views. Almost all of the new subs are from that one video. People think it is a game, and many of them think I am pulling a fast one on them. Kinda funny. Thanks for your comment and your encouragement.
Thank you for this tutorial I'm new to woodworking and this is incredibly helpful.
Awesome video. Great quality editing and camerawork. Glad to subscribe
Much appreciated! Thanks for commenting
I'm currently making something with miters, I made a test piece with the tape method. It went awful, it just opened up and the joint looks terrible. I can probably fix it with a screwdriver (I tried it, it's drying right now) but it really made me wary about gluing the actual project. It was really nice to watch a video that shows an alternative technique, I am going to take my time and prepare the clamping jigs and I am sure it will go much better now thanks to you. Thank you.
Great post! I appreciate the content and the time it took to try to teach others. I am one of those trying to learn more. However I feel like this post isn’t a fair comparison. For starters, if we are just testing clamping methods, why does one joint have biscuits/ dominos but not the other. Also if you rely on the tape method, like I often do, i would tape it much differently. I’m not arguing. The angle clamp is a great method.. but much more time consuming.. for very similar results if done properly. Just in my humble opinion. Looking forward to your response.
Oh man. I just found this after trying the old super glue and 45 cut pieces trick. It did not go well. 😢 Oh well. I know for next time. Great vid. Thanks.
I ran into trouble with my plinth glue up I had a 12 by 30 panels to all glue up and I tried the tape method but it all started falling apart. I should make these going forward
Thanks for the information, I was getting stuck on a particular joint i was trying to attempt and wasn't happy with the result the corner clamps only gave me.
Glad it was helpful. Miter joints can be but they add so much to a piece of furniture. Good luck with them.
Very helpful! Thank you.
I use heavy wide clear packing tape instead of painter's tape. It seems to hold better and is more durable. Admittedly, squeeze-out negates the benefit of the tape's transparency. I like the control your method allows but I sure wouldn't want to be in a hurry when employing it. I need to work more like that anyway : ) Will try asap.
Very helpful, TY!
Hi, love the video. I’m trying to join two long pieces of wood to form a 90 degree angle. It’s part of a fireplace mantle project I’m working on. They are each about 9 feet long. Do you think your clamp method would work here? How far apart could I go with the clamps? Thanks so much.
It should work fine. You may need a lot of clamps, but the principle should work. There are many things that would change the spacing, so you will have to play with this during a dry run. You could try 12" but I think you man need them closer.
Thank you so so much God bless you
You are welcome!
Would sizing be any advantage with this joint?
There are a couple ways I can interpret sizing in this context...how large the joint is, or applying glue ahead of time and letting it dry. Which do you mean?
you are welcome
Great video. Just curious, have you ever used CA glue in conjunction with your wood glue? I have a fairly large collection of various clamps that I rarely use for their intended purpose. After discovering a friend who's a finish carpenter using CA glue, ill never go back to traditional glue and clamps. I now only use them for alignment. My preferred method for mitered joints is CA glue and wood glue using 3M Scotch fiber strapping tape. Making sure my joint is aligned I press both pieces together for 20 seconds of positioning time and then you have an instant fully cured bond after a minute. The wood glue still has to dry in normal time but using traditional clamping until your piece is fully cured is no longer necessary.
I am not fully tracking you. Do you mix the wood glue and CA, or do you alternate it on the joint? I can surely see the advantage of the quick grabbing CA glue. I have only used it for small things and temporary clamping blocks so far. Would love to hear exactly how you use the two glues on the same joint.
The approach is to put a few dabs of CA glue along the joint and then spread wood glue in the rest of the joint. You’re not mixing the glues, you use the two glues at different sections of the joint. The advantage of this is that the CA glue gives a quick grab of the joint and holds it together whilst the wood glue has time to dry.
I’ve seen quite a few youtube woodworkers use this technique for large joints, less time for mis-alignment to occur than just using wood glue
Seems to me that if you are using dominoes or biscuits then there is no need for either the tape or cauls.
The angular plane of the floating tenons will transfer the clamping force into the perpendicular such that 3 clamps would hold and compress the mitre regardless of the position of the clamps. Clamping to the rear of the cabinet or across the face frame would yield the same force being transferred into the mitre. The only condition being the clamps should be positioned at the location of the domino if the material is likely to yield or bend under focused clamping force.
Made an 20”x 87” long RWO box shelf with a
2“ band yesterday. I used clamp tape. Works better than any other method hands down. I also miter frames with end panels all the time and I again use clamp tape-you just fold it over on itself and lay it over the box. Your method of taping mitres is very sub par and all together unexplored on your end-respectfully. You don’t tape the whole joint long ways-you hinge it across the mitre. Nailing clamping and the domino method are all much longer in reference to time and more laborious. Gluing the calls on the example you gave was prolly the longest method for joining those two frames. Takes less than 10 minutes to glue those to the box.
thank you
I use clear tape only in middle section glue & nail minimally with 18 gauge . Then I square the ends & nail them. Nails are easily hidden, it's true every time, & you don't really have to wait on glue to setup , especially if you use titebond 3.
Depending on the final quality/look you are needing I love your suggestions here and have even used them. I do feel that there are times for higher end cabinetry and furniture that a clean, gap-free, no-nail joint is required, and for those situations clamps will give you better results consistently. Last year I have several posts for a handrail that were mitered on all four corners. For that I actually used old bike tires and stretched them around and around the posts. It actually worked great. There are always many ways to approach a building problem, and it is good to have several techniques you can call on.
Great tutorial, camera work and audio, but... that music is VERY distracting and it's hard to understand what you are saying. It's fine for time lapse.
Sorry, still learning.
Interesting explanation of the benefits of clamps over tape. It wasn’t an entirely fair comparison though as you had domino and lamello in the clamped joint for alignment, but not in the blue tape joint so the clamped joint already had a ‘head start’ advantage of being aligned properly. I’ll have to make some of those clamp assists
that background music spoils this. i’m formative video.
Can’t hear you over the music
that music is really distracting.
7 clamps for a 16”-ish piece of wood seems reasonable
If you have to clamp hard enough to make those creep then you are clamping WAY too hard.
There are too many variables for your statement to ALWAYS be true. HOWEVER, I don't necessarily disagree with you. I confess to be a overclamper. I am trying to get better.
So...the variables are things like, the amount of glue surface area you are clamping, how long the open time is for the glue up, how slippery the wood is on both the cauls and the project itself, and the amount of clamp pressure you can get on the cauls. I find I am more likely to get slippage on larger projects or longer miters.
But all that to say, THANKS for the observation and the reminder that it is possible to put too much clamp pressure on a clamp joint!
Yes Please get rid of the music please.
Lol if you make 4 legs that's easily 28 clamps or more.. no way is this better, plus you used domino.. no way.. miter fold is 20x faster & if you put some degree of effort into it just as quality.
This method is clamp intensive. And I was probably a little too harsh on the tape joint. However, if you want to be guaranteed the best joint for clear finish, I would stand by clamps over tape. So, I do think it is better for making sure there is no joint, but you have good points about the clamp intensity, and speed. So, if the perfect joint is not needed, tape can be a good technique too. Thanks for commenting.