I agree with you on the tyres ,I ride my old bikes and use the best tyres I can get.I do not care what they look like ,it`s a tyre!! I have no nostalgia for the Avon Speedmaster MkII on my first bike , a BSA B25 ,in 1977. Square in section and of a compound so hard the tread depth actually got deeper as it eroded the tarmac, it dropped me on my arse many a time.
Hi Ray, hopefully it will not wet-sump so much when I'm riding it regularly! I have to say that I don't like the check valves and really don't mind dealing with wet-sumping if needed. Cheers, Mike
The oil that came out of the bottom drain looked like it was coming right out of the bottle. So clean. What size is the tiny wrench you use to adjust the tappets? And do you eye ball it as far as when the tappet/rocker is all the way up and can be measured and adjusted?
Good evening, I like your videos. I would like to share a few suggestions. I take a piece of cardboard and bend it a bit to make a channel with one end slipped under the tank so that the engine oil misses the bike and falls into the container when draining the oil tank. If there is a mysterious oil dampness near the oil tank then perhaps the bottom of the tank is perforated. This happens when running on short rides and not allowing the oil to warm up enough to get rid of water vapour. The vapour condenses and you have free water in the bottom of the tank. This happens a lot when running 50 wt. in cold weather. Braze a piece of brass to the bottom is the solution to the leak at least. I would change the brake fluid at least annually as the fluid absorbs humidity. Doing so also verifies that the bleeder is free. Use some lubricant on the bleeder threads. I have never seen a Commando with square block tires. To me they came with 4.10x19 (low profile version equivalent to 3.50x19) TT100's or Roadrunners on both wheels. The washer on the large sump/filter drain is to be desired when new, even when annealed if of copper. I changed my sealing washer to one of nylon (or equivalent plastic) about 1/16" thick years ago and it stays tight. When annealing may I suggest that the washer(s) is slid onto a wire so that there is no cold spot (from holding with pliers) when heating. I would anneal even new washers. There is a pain in the wrong end clip mounted under the intake cover nut that holds the rocker feed line free of the carbs and/or manifolds. I eliminated that clip and now slide a split hose over the rocker feed in the carb/manifold area. Pretty necessary with the plastic rocker feed line and also protects the stainless version. I see that you took care with the routing. Would be nice to mention that when one valve is fully depressed (open) the other identical function valve on the other cylinder can be adjusted. We all have our methods to adjust gaps. I screw in the adjuster until finger tight on the feeler and then holding the adjuster (with a wrench) cinch up the lock nut (with a wrench). The lock nut pulls up the adjuster ever so slightly and gives the feeler a nice slide fit. If an adjuster breaks and cannot be screwed/unscrewed, remove the rocker side plates, heat the head (benzomatic), remove the rocker spindle to remove the rocker so that you can work with it on the bench. Take care to recuperate the spacer/spring washers on each side of the rocker. No mention of fork oil change. That could be a maintenance item. What oil are you using for the primary, the transmission and the forks? Gerardus
Good one Sir. I also like the VR1 Valvoline oil but it is hard to find it locally and runs over $12-15 per liter when I do find it. Too rich for my blood! There is an excellent oil database listing extensive test results of many different oils over on Access Norton forum. Testing performed by Jim Comstock, a well know Norton expert & machinist. VR1 did pretty well, but there were others that show better temperature durability and wear resistance. I'm using BelRay EXP 20/50 now based on those tests. I can get it locally for about $10 a liter. BTW, I didn't see an oil filter swap out on this video. Does the bike have one fitted?
Thank you very much for the info about Jim’s analysis. I must look into that. He is a brilliant guy and highly respected. Yes, I didn’t change the oil filter this time but will do it next time for sure. When I saw the brand new oil coming out of the sump, I decided I wouldn’t change it this time around. Best wishes, Mike
Excellent video, as always! I'm about to recommission a 1974 commando which hasn't run for around 20 yrs but only has 10k miles on the clock. Hence I've not bothered to open up the engine or gearbox until I see how it sounds. I've read its advisable to 'prime' the oil system by pre-filling the new filter then pumping oil into the rocker feed line connection and also pouring some down the push rod tunnel. Any chance you could show how this should be done please?
Hi Richard, there's a clip of priming the oil filter in this video ruclips.net/video/PfNQaVGabo0/видео.html and other maintenance tasks in the TLC (Tender-Loving-Care) mini-playlist ruclips.net/p/PLgDzKiI-i6nbuUiVDqWGhiNAxp5tbM6au. I don't have a video of priming a Commando but I do have a similar video on the Vincent coming up in the next couple of weeks. Cheers, Mike
Another thoroughly enjoyable video, Mike. I wish someone would explain what makes an oil change and valve adjustment such a pleasure to watch. Whatever it is, I agree with the other commenters, great video and I will be looking forward to hearing it run again. Thanks for taking me along.
Hi Rod, happy new year! Hope all is well. Thanks a lot for your note. It has been a pleasure working on this bike. There is good news ahead… I promise 😉
Thanks a lot Chris! Well, you sound like you have a big project on your hands! I hope everything goes well. Glad you enjoyed the videos. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks Terry 👍. Yes, everything is looking good so far. There have been a couple of problems with the carbs (read: electrical 😉) but hopefully things are now back on track! Best wishes, Mike
They are roadridders not runners I have them on mine. As the guy was fitting them he said these tyres are not good in the wet ! That’s just what you need to hear as he’s fitting them. Seam fine to me and they look good .
Hi Mike, another superb video man, love watching you work, nothing ever bothers you, you just get on with it in a nice professional manner. I think you should start making tutorials on the mechanics of your bikes, that would be great. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Again , a wonderful video Mike. As someone who is not a mechanic , your videos are a true masterclass on vintage bike maintenance. I've always shied away from buying a vintage Brit Bike since there are no mechanics around who can properly work on them but I may look into getting one thanks to your excellent tutorials.
The engine did run when you acquired it. Correct that you've done the clearances before carb syncro though. If you've got pianists fingers you can feel the slides drop equally onto the stops and/or take enough gubbins off to watch the slide cutaways dissapear from the venturis on full throttle. The P.I.A. 2 into 1 cable junction box can hamper your synchronising efforts. Drain plug: read that manual with those superb illustrations! It is possible to recirculate your 'sumped' Commandos oil - plugs out 4th gear and a 20 minute upper body workout turning the back wheel. Does your oil filler cap say 'Made in Wolverhampton' on the inside face? And you should find it more lively with the nice filter box on rather than the horrid black plastic restrictive one as long as its jetted to suit. Just seen the Vincent ride video where you mention the running troubles and the electronic ign. I know youre still on points but there was an article in Classic bike not too long ago featuring a heavily modified Commando and the owner had converted to electronic ign. but suffered some similar issues due to vibes at 4500 revs turns out it was harmonic resonance due to mass, parts went back to makers for modification that has been adopted as standard now. Unfortunately l cant locate the mag for confirmation of manufacturer. Try Jan 2021 issue.
I noticed you have the Norton manual, educational video but would have been nice to hear you talk through the torque settings for the oil sump and other bolts, good video regardless...
Hl Mike, I really like all the info that I get from your videos. I just saw you changing the gaskets on your rocker & spindle covers. I just want to tell you that if Mothers mag & aluminum polish will instantly make those covers, your carburetors & all other aluminum covers shine like you 've never seen before. I would like to know where you get your parts as I'm in Md.
Thank you Don, I appreciate it. I tend to run my bikes with less oil as I've tried more in the oil tank and it tends to overflow. I keep a close eye on it. My bikes wet-sump, so I'm always checking. All the best, Mike
thanks for the basic maintenance vid Mike; assume youll change the engine oil filter, the brake fluid, fork oil, check swing arm and wheel bearings, battery condition etc...........look forward to viewing and adding to my own Commando to do list :)
Thanks a lot Malcolm. I appreciate it. Yes, I will definitely check those items. I didn't change the oil filter as the oil looked new when it came out of the sump. I'm trying to focus on the maintenance items needed to get the bike running and take it for a ride. Then next I will start looking at the other items. Cheers, Mike
Ahhh. The lost art of annealing sealing washers. I’m always shocked by how few people are aware of this and the importance, even if it is a new copper washer out of the package. What kind of mileage do you see out of the Avons Mike? I’m using IRC GS11s. They have a vintage look to them and a fantastic compound, great ride and handling and grippy enough to do wheelies in the ran as it were. I get 4 to 5000 miles on a rear and around 8000 on a front. Cheers Mike.
Hi Mick, thanks very much for the tip about the IRC tires. I hadn’t heard of them before. I think I have been getting around 6-7000 on rear tires and more on the front. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks for another enjoyable watch, Mike. The position of that oil tank would have had my old dad using colourful language at the state of British engineering!
Thanks a lot! Things are going very well so I hope you will enjoy the upcoming vids. I hate to keep everyone in suspense, but there are a few more things to do first 😉
Thanks, yes I will definitely be checking the fork oil. The front end feels a little 'sticky', so will need some attention. Thanks for the reminder. Cheers, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage Sticky? check fork tubes are not being "pinched" together by an overtightened or bent axle. then there is bent tube or alignment to check.
Thanks very much. I haven't looked at the front end yet, but have noticed that the forks seem to stick when pushing the handlebars down, or pulling them up. For example, when pulling the bike off the stand or when tying the front end down with straps. Cheers, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage I gotta believe something is bent or pinched. If the chrome is good, tubes are easily straightened. Axles are a piece of cake to get right
Looking good Mike👌
Thanks a lot Gerry. Cheers, Mike
Looking forward to seeing the Start-up - Thanks for another nicely paced video.
Thank you very much. I appreciate it. Best wishes, Mike
Love these tutorials Mike ! Thanks 😊
Thank you Ray!! Please also consult your owners manuals as I do mess up from time to time 😉
Every episode is so excellent. Favourite channel big time.
Thank you very much!! I really appreciate your kind comment. Best wishes, Mike
I agree with you on the tyres ,I ride my old bikes and use the best tyres I can get.I do not care what they look like ,it`s a tyre!!
I have no nostalgia for the Avon Speedmaster MkII on my first bike , a BSA B25 ,in 1977.
Square in section and of a compound so hard the tread depth actually got deeper as it eroded the tarmac, it dropped me on my arse many a time.
Many thanks, yes I feel the same way. I do like the look of the older style tires, but I prefer to feel safer on the road. Best wishes, Mike
Nice video Mike. Have you given any considerarion to a crankcase check valve?
Hi Ray, hopefully it will not wet-sump so much when I'm riding it regularly! I have to say that I don't like the check valves and really don't mind dealing with wet-sumping if needed. Cheers, Mike
The oil that came out of the bottom drain looked like it was coming right out of the bottle. So clean. What size is the tiny wrench you use to adjust the tappets? And do you eye ball it as far as when the tappet/rocker is all the way up and can be measured and adjusted?
What? No Dunlop TT100's? 🙂
Hehe, may next time Bruce
First haha
Therapeutic to watch you. Can’t wait to hear it start. It’s a piece of art not just a lump of machinery.
Many thanks. I agree. It has been a pleasure to work on. Best wishes, Mike
That oil looks very clean. Cook your chips in that!
Hehe, I know! That surprised me as it looked a little dark in the oil tank 😉😉
Good evening,
I like your videos. I would like to share a few suggestions. I take a piece of cardboard and bend it a bit to make a channel with one end slipped under the tank so that the engine oil misses the bike and falls into the container when draining the oil tank. If there is a mysterious oil dampness near the oil tank then perhaps the bottom of the tank is perforated. This happens when running on short rides and not allowing the oil to warm up enough to get rid of water vapour. The vapour condenses and you have free water in the bottom of the tank. This happens a lot when running 50 wt. in cold weather. Braze a piece of brass to the bottom is the solution to the leak at least. I would change the brake fluid at least annually as the fluid absorbs humidity. Doing so also verifies that the bleeder is free. Use some lubricant on the bleeder threads. I have never seen a Commando with square block tires. To me they came with 4.10x19 (low profile version equivalent to 3.50x19) TT100's or Roadrunners on both wheels. The washer on the large sump/filter drain is to be desired when new, even when annealed if of copper. I changed my sealing washer to one of nylon (or equivalent plastic) about 1/16" thick years ago and it stays tight. When annealing may I suggest that the washer(s) is slid onto a wire so that there is no cold spot (from holding with pliers) when heating. I would anneal even new washers. There is a pain in the wrong end clip mounted under the intake cover nut that holds the rocker feed line free of the carbs and/or manifolds. I eliminated that clip and now slide a split hose over the rocker feed in the carb/manifold area. Pretty necessary with the plastic rocker feed line and also protects the stainless version. I see that you took care with the routing. Would be nice to mention that when one valve is fully depressed (open) the other identical function valve on the other cylinder can be adjusted. We all have our methods to adjust gaps. I screw in the adjuster until finger tight on the feeler and then holding the adjuster (with a wrench) cinch up the lock nut (with a wrench). The lock nut pulls up the adjuster ever so slightly and gives the feeler a nice slide fit. If an adjuster breaks and cannot be screwed/unscrewed, remove the rocker side plates, heat the head (benzomatic), remove the rocker spindle to remove the rocker so that you can work with it on the bench. Take care to recuperate the spacer/spring washers on each side of the rocker. No mention of fork oil change. That could be a maintenance item. What oil are you using for the primary, the transmission and the forks?
Gerardus
Would be nice to have a Commando so I could emulate your fine work.
Good one Sir. I also like the VR1 Valvoline oil but it is hard to find it locally and runs over $12-15 per liter when I do find it. Too rich for my blood! There is an excellent oil database listing extensive test results of many different oils over on Access Norton forum. Testing performed by Jim Comstock, a well know Norton expert & machinist. VR1 did pretty well, but there were others that show better temperature durability and wear resistance. I'm using BelRay EXP 20/50 now based on those tests. I can get it locally for about $10 a liter.
BTW, I didn't see an oil filter swap out on this video. Does the bike have one fitted?
Thank you very much for the info about Jim’s analysis. I must look into that. He is a brilliant guy and highly respected. Yes, I didn’t change the oil filter this time but will do it next time for sure. When I saw the brand new oil coming out of the sump, I decided I wouldn’t change it this time around. Best wishes, Mike
90/90 front gives more nimble handling, but doesnt look quite as butch or fill the mudguard as much as the 100 x19 (old 4.10 size).
Thank you. Yes I agree. The original style tires definitely look much better.
Incredibly helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure, Scott. Glad it was helpful! Best wishes, Mike
Excellent video, as always! I'm about to recommission a 1974 commando which hasn't run for around 20 yrs but only has 10k miles on the clock. Hence I've not bothered to open up the engine or gearbox until I see how it sounds. I've read its advisable to 'prime' the oil system by pre-filling the new filter then pumping oil into the rocker feed line connection and also pouring some down the push rod tunnel. Any chance you could show how this should be done please?
Hi Richard, there's a clip of priming the oil filter in this video ruclips.net/video/PfNQaVGabo0/видео.html and other maintenance tasks in the TLC (Tender-Loving-Care) mini-playlist ruclips.net/p/PLgDzKiI-i6nbuUiVDqWGhiNAxp5tbM6au. I don't have a video of priming a Commando but I do have a similar video on the Vincent coming up in the next couple of weeks. Cheers, Mike
Instead of polishing the valve adjustment covers, have them chrome plated...just kidding!
Haha, great idea! Then I can say I didn't technically polish them 😉 cheers, Mike
What sizes are you using for the front and rear tyres ? I saw that they should both front and rear be 4.10x19 what do you recommend ?
Hi Nikolas, I have Avon Roadrider MK11 100/90-19 tires on front and rear wheels. Best wishes
Another thoroughly enjoyable video, Mike. I wish someone would explain what makes an oil change and valve adjustment such a pleasure to watch. Whatever it is, I agree with the other commenters, great video and I will be looking forward to hearing it run again. Thanks for taking me along.
Hi Rod, happy new year! Hope all is well. Thanks a lot for your note. It has been a pleasure working on this bike. There is good news ahead… I promise 😉
Thanks for all your hard work , I am from the UK and I am rebuilding a Norton commando 750 that was in a building fire and I find your work a must
Thanks a lot Chris! Well, you sound like you have a big project on your hands! I hope everything goes well. Glad you enjoyed the videos. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks for sharing, looking forward to hearing her 👍🏴
Thanks a lot Jonathan, things are going good so far! Cheers, Mike
Good to see that clean engine oil Mike, nothing so far to worry about which is reassuring.
atvb t .. 😉 .. 👍 .. 🏍
Thanks Terry 👍. Yes, everything is looking good so far. There have been a couple of problems with the carbs (read: electrical 😉) but hopefully things are now back on track! Best wishes, Mike
Awesome video! This is really applicable to my project. thanks
Thank you Tom. Glad it was helpful!
i think from memory the commandos had Avon roadrunners as standard. Could be wrong
They are roadridders not runners I have them on mine. As the guy was fitting them he said these tyres are not good in the wet ! That’s just what you need to hear as he’s fitting them. Seam fine to me and they look good .
From the instruction wallet that came with the bike, they all contained an Avon tyre manual booklet so more than likely.
If you have a look at Mikes first video with all the paper work you will see the Avon booklet.
Hi Mike, another superb video man, love watching you work, nothing ever bothers you, you just get on with it in a nice professional manner. I think you should start making tutorials on the mechanics of your bikes, that would be great. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
😉 Thank you Mike. I really appreciate it. There should be some more technical videos coming up soon. Best wishes, Mike
I could not resist the urge to polish.....just a bit
😉 It might still happen! 😉
Again , a wonderful video Mike. As someone who is not a mechanic , your videos are a true masterclass on vintage bike maintenance. I've always shied away from buying a vintage Brit Bike since there are no mechanics around who can properly work on them but I may look into getting one thanks to your excellent tutorials.
Thank you very much Gary! I’m glad you enjoyed the videos. Really appreciate your comment. Best wishes, Mike
Thank you Mike for another enjoyable video! Always look forward to them! Can't wait for a start up..
Thanks a lot Mike. Everything is going really well and hope to share some good news soon! Cheers, Mike
The engine did run when you acquired it. Correct that you've done the clearances before carb syncro though. If you've got pianists fingers you can feel the slides drop equally onto the stops and/or take enough gubbins off to watch the slide cutaways dissapear from the venturis on full throttle. The P.I.A. 2 into 1 cable junction box can hamper your synchronising efforts. Drain plug: read that manual with those superb illustrations! It is possible to recirculate your 'sumped' Commandos oil - plugs out 4th gear and a 20 minute upper body workout turning the back wheel. Does your oil filler cap say 'Made in Wolverhampton' on the inside face? And you should find it more lively with the nice filter box on rather than the horrid black plastic restrictive one as long as its jetted to suit. Just seen the Vincent ride video where you mention the running troubles and the electronic ign. I know youre still on points but there was an article in Classic bike not too long ago featuring a heavily modified Commando and the owner had converted to electronic ign. but suffered some similar issues due to vibes at 4500 revs turns out it was harmonic resonance due to mass, parts went back to makers for modification that has been adopted as standard now. Unfortunately l cant locate the mag for confirmation of manufacturer. Try Jan 2021 issue.
I noticed you have the Norton manual, educational video but would have been nice to hear you talk through the torque settings for the oil sump and other bolts, good video regardless...
Hi. Been watching the shep videos while restoring my own Atlas. I haven't been able to find any vids on the rebuild, are they available
Hl Mike, I really like all the info that I get from your videos. I just saw you changing the gaskets on your rocker & spindle covers. I just want to tell you that if Mothers mag & aluminum polish will instantly make those covers, your carburetors & all other aluminum covers shine like you 've never seen before. I would like to know where you get your parts as I'm in Md.
More polishing to come, we will just have to wait for that 😀
Take care Mike 🧁☕️
Hehe, I polish this bike in my dreams, David 😉 It's taking a lot not to touch it! 😉
You can't beat a bit of workshop spannering.
Why would you run 2qt of oil in your commando instead of 3? Thank you. Love your channel.
Thank you Don, I appreciate it. I tend to run my bikes with less oil as I've tried more in the oil tank and it tends to overflow. I keep a close eye on it. My bikes wet-sump, so I'm always checking. All the best, Mike
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
thanks for the basic maintenance vid Mike; assume youll change the engine oil filter, the brake fluid, fork oil, check swing arm and wheel bearings, battery condition etc...........look forward to viewing and adding to my own Commando to do list :)
Thanks a lot Malcolm. I appreciate it. Yes, I will definitely check those items. I didn't change the oil filter as the oil looked new when it came out of the sump. I'm trying to focus on the maintenance items needed to get the bike running and take it for a ride. Then next I will start looking at the other items. Cheers, Mike
I do appreciate the patience, pride and care you put into the bikes. With that they'll last forever and still be ridden.
Thank you very much Henry. I get a lot of enjoyment from working on the bikes, especially this one! It's like stepping back in time 😉
Woke up at 1:30 am this morning and wondered what to watch. MIGHTY GARAGE!
Hehe, sorry to keep you up Larry! 😉
Ahhh. The lost art of annealing sealing washers. I’m always shocked by how few people are aware of this and the importance, even if it is a new copper washer out of the package.
What kind of mileage do you see out of the Avons Mike? I’m using IRC GS11s. They have a vintage look to them and a fantastic compound, great ride and handling and grippy enough to do wheelies in the ran as it were. I get 4 to 5000 miles on a rear and around 8000 on a front.
Cheers Mike.
Hi Mick, thanks very much for the tip about the IRC tires. I hadn’t heard of them before. I think I have been getting around 6-7000 on rear tires and more on the front. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks for another enjoyable watch, Mike.
The position of that oil tank would have had my old dad using colourful language at the state of British engineering!
😉😉 Thanks Matt
Gotta love the mai tai garage!!! Looking forward to hearing her start Mike.🇨🇦🍺😃
Thanks a lot! Things are going very well so I hope you will enjoy the upcoming vids. I hate to keep everyone in suspense, but there are a few more things to do first 😉
Patience guaratees success! Well done, this shows the engine with smooth running and good starting.
Thank you, Conny & Uwe!
Such a beautiful and simple motor. Why did Norton have to go?
Yes, I agree Andrew. It has been a pleasure working on this bike. It feels like I'm back in 1973 again! 😉
Another great video Mike I really enjoy your videos. Looking forward to the start up.
Thank you Mark. I'm making good progress and hopefully there will be good news coming soon! Cheers, Mike
The best way to start a cold Sunday morning is watching a great video.
Thanks a lot Gary. I appreciate it. Best wishes, Mike
Coming along nicely Mike .
A well sorted Norton makes a great bike👍🇭🇲
Many thanks Greg. It has been so enjoyable to work on. Hope all is well. Cheers, Mike
Can't wait to see the Snorton Norton pulling hard near full chat.
Me too! I still haven't ridden it yet.... but soon! 😉 best wishes
HAHA resisting the urge to polish a piece that is on show and easy to do , you're a better man than me 🤣
Ha ha, it has been hard to resist Gary! Best wishes, Mike
A lot of tightness in this video Mike 😆. Yeah bet you were itching to polish 😉
It was as "Toight as a Tiger" 😉 hehe, yes, the urge to polish is killing me 😉
So good to see things nice and straightforward. A good omen, I hope.
Thanks a lot. Yes, things are going really well now. Had a few little problems, but I think they are now sorted. Best wishes, Mike
Another great video Mike, thanks for sharing.
Thanks very much Erwin! Hope all is well. Best wishes, Mike
Fork oil ?? !!
Thanks, yes I will definitely be checking the fork oil. The front end feels a little 'sticky', so will need some attention. Thanks for the reminder. Cheers, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage Sticky? check fork tubes are not being "pinched" together by an overtightened or bent axle. then there is bent tube or alignment to check.
Thanks very much. I haven't looked at the front end yet, but have noticed that the forks seem to stick when pushing the handlebars down, or pulling them up. For example, when pulling the bike off the stand or when tying the front end down with straps. Cheers, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage I gotta believe something is bent or pinched. If the chrome is good, tubes are easily straightened. Axles are a piece of cake to get right
As usual, simply brilliant.
Many thanks James! I really appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers, Mike
What a perfect start to any sunday. Great work as always thx Mike.
Thanks a lot Jim. Glad you enjoyed it. Best wishes.