As an avarage surfer :) it would be super helpful if you could also provide videos of you surfing in the water rather then just analysis of surfers from shore. I can understand all the theory behind surfing while watching your videos because you are amazing at explaining but when in the water everything looks so different! As you are so good at taking/editing videos, would you be able to shoot more videos directly in the water to explain timing, waves shape and size, etc.?
I think it’s not so cut and dry as to how well someone later in life will pick up surfing, some contributing factors have to thought about. Whether or not they’ve spent time skateboarding or snowboarding throughout their life for one. I spent most of my life skateboarding every single day and snowboarded a lot, when I started surfing, as soon as I was able to get up on the board I felt comfortable, not saying I’m advanced yet by any means but I feel like life experience in certain things contributes to how long it will take you to progress
agree totally with volume - I thought I needed more volume, just got in a better position for takeoff and had same good results with oreo technique . I went from 54l mini mal soft top, to 46l soft top standard shape, then to my daughters 40l soft top in the same 4hr surf session. I am confident that I could easily drop another 5 litres off in size to 35l and it will probably be even better. I am surfing a holiday spot here the south of france - lots of beginners and a handful of good surfers. I am not sure whether it is better to navigate through the surf schools and beginners or have a heavy lineup of aggressive surfers claiming all the waves. I have had some good results drifting out of the lineup aiming for the off swell where you have an occasional good wave rather than a consistent bigger set wave. Luckily when the odd good wave comes most of the crowd is out of position and I jump straight on - until they work out that I am getting an ok wave without the crowd and change strategy.
Kool to see you both out surfing and have the same problem with crowds..great lipline floater by Ant but kool point about avoiding the gutter..be kool to hear more about that manoeuvre.
Appreciate everything you do Clay, but the difference isn't that you don't focus on fear, the difference is the 10,000 hours from a very young age. You can read situations and intuit movements that are completely opaque to most, backed by muscle memory that lets you slip into the ideal stance for the moment. But hearing you break it down allows us to start to translate it a little ourselves for the first time.
Got to say filming my surfing has made such a huge difference. Sometimes i think back to a wave and go that was so sick. Then when editing the video I actually see mistakes on that same wave i made where the ride could have been even better.
19:50 is the Gold Coast personified 😂, it gets crowded on the northern beaches of Sydney where I am but at least we don't drop in on each other like that hahaha ❤
27:40. "He's sitting in chair with a dress on and has to close his legs." 🤣🤣🤣 More average Joe's please. Oh I wish you guys could see So Cal crowds. You would blow your brains out.
Hi guys im an average surfer. Im in love with your videos and tips. Im understanding how to move my body and i think my surfing flow is getting better. I have a big doubt about my surfboard. It has a very low entry rocker and sometimes i feel like it runs too faster for my surfing. It is the lost rocket redux one. Should i keep trying with it or should i change the board for an slower one. Thanks for the awnser. Love you
Hey Guys, also grew up in Durbs (living on GC now) and would like to see that clip you mentioned right at the end about the Bluff and other spots Clay grew up with too- there a link for that one? Cheers
As an avarage surfer :) it would be super helpful if you could also provide videos of you surfing in the water rather then just analysis of surfers from shore. I can understand all the theory behind surfing while watching your videos because you are amazing at explaining but when in the water everything looks so different! As you are so good at taking/editing videos, would you be able to shoot more videos directly in the water to explain timing, waves shape and size, etc.?
I think it’s not so cut and dry as to how well someone later in life will pick up surfing, some contributing factors have to thought about. Whether or not they’ve spent time skateboarding or snowboarding throughout their life for one. I spent most of my life skateboarding every single day and snowboarded a lot, when I started surfing, as soon as I was able to get up on the board I felt comfortable, not saying I’m advanced yet by any means but I feel like life experience in certain things contributes to how long it will take you to progress
agree totally with volume - I thought I needed more volume, just got in a better position for takeoff and had same good results with oreo technique . I went from 54l mini mal soft top, to 46l soft top standard shape, then to my daughters 40l soft top in the same 4hr surf session. I am confident that I could easily drop another 5 litres off in size to 35l and it will probably be even better. I am surfing a holiday spot here the south of france - lots of beginners and a handful of good surfers. I am not sure whether it is better to navigate through the surf schools and beginners or have a heavy lineup of aggressive surfers claiming all the waves. I have had some good results drifting out of the lineup aiming for the off swell where you have an occasional good wave rather than a consistent bigger set wave. Luckily when the odd good wave comes most of the crowd is out of position and I jump straight on - until they work out that I am getting an ok wave without the crowd and change strategy.
That’s fantastic. Keep it up
Kool to see you both out surfing and have the same problem with crowds..great lipline floater by Ant but kool point about avoiding the gutter..be kool to hear more about that manoeuvre.
Appreciate everything you do Clay, but the difference isn't that you don't focus on fear, the difference is the 10,000 hours from a very young age. You can read situations and intuit movements that are completely opaque to most, backed by muscle memory that lets you slip into the ideal stance for the moment. But hearing you break it down allows us to start to translate it a little ourselves for the first time.
love the trampoline analogy for the bottom turn!
Thanks Timothy!
'"Hands up" is now part of my routine driving playlist - to remind me what I need to do :)
Some of these clips had me in tears amazing 😂😂
Got to say filming my surfing has made such a huge difference. Sometimes i think back to a wave and go that was so sick. Then when editing the video I actually see mistakes on that same wave i made where the ride could have been even better.
You guys are so amazing, thank you very much for helping, a lot of respect 🔥✊✊✊🙏❤️❤️
Thank you 🙌
19:50 is the Gold Coast personified 😂, it gets crowded on the northern beaches of Sydney where I am but at least we don't drop in on each other like that hahaha ❤
27:40. "He's sitting in chair with a dress on and has to close his legs." 🤣🤣🤣
More average Joe's please. Oh I wish you guys could see So Cal crowds. You would blow your brains out.
We will keep pumping average joe's :)
Looks like a quiet day at Bondi
It was a quiet day here as well.
25:59 the heel of his front foot is pretty much on the rail, no wonder his posture is all over the shop compensating!
This one was really helpful for me, thank you.
average depends on where you live. i surf in hawaii and everyone surfs pretty good.
That was nice surfing ant !
Another great night
Thanks again
Our pleasure!
Hi guys im an average surfer. Im in love with your videos and tips. Im understanding how to move my body and i think my surfing flow is getting better. I have a big doubt about my surfboard. It has a very low entry rocker and sometimes i feel like it runs too faster for my surfing. It is the lost rocket redux one. Should i keep trying with it or should i change the board for an slower one. Thanks for the awnser. Love you
You thought that was busy? In the UK we’d have twice as many people on a wave half the quality.
That's unfortunate.
Joel Tudor is easy as technical as Rob Machado, I would suggest also using video of him.
Love your surfing chats 👍
Can you drop you suggestion here? -> ombe.co/roadmap thanks!
When so you go live. How will i know. I have so many questions
45:45 I do that all the time ! I feel Power full and stupid. And I surf à JS ! was it me ? 😂
Hey Guys, also grew up in Durbs (living on GC now) and would like to see that clip you mentioned right at the end about the Bluff and other spots Clay grew up with too- there a link for that one? Cheers
Ant - can I ask what you weigh? We're a similar level and I was just about to get a new board and add more volume but now you've thinking differently.
Hey Justin, He is about 86kg.
Be aggressive be be aggressive
How you gonna be a coach and talk like a mouse? I cant hear you mate. Speak up or adjust the audio when recording.........
hi guys
Hello Wade!
Practice the wrong thing and you will eventually become the worst you can be.
Thanks for sharing!