2003 Honda VFR800 VTEC Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2020
- Hello everyone, welcome back to the Shed!
In this video I will be carrying out a replacement of the front and rear Cam Chain Tensioners or CCTs as they are sometimes referred.
This is a job that you can easily achieve at home with a basic socket set and will avoid a big labour bill from the Honda Main dealer!
As promised in the video, the link to the CCTs complete with genuine gaskets that I bought at an excellent price is below:
ebay.us/bTJCp9
All links to products are affiliate links for which I will receive a small commission on any purchase made, at no additional cost to you.
I hope that you enjoyed this video.
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As usual a very informative and practical video! Nicely done. I hear they usually go around 30,000 miles or so, so I’ve got 24,000 on mine -so it’s in my future. Interesting tid bit on the gasket hole. I’ll definitely open mine up as well. You did answer my concerns about the cap and about how you actually wind the tensioner up. Kinda ridiculous that Honda didn’t secure that cap on better. Thanks for the video Kevin. Cheers. If I ever come to GB I’ll buy you a pint!
is replacement nessacary this doesnt seem like a wearing part
is it more down to changing the oil more often ??
It’s a spring loaded assembly and it goes bad, if you want to try changing your oil more often to see if that makes your cam chain tensioner last longer, keep notes and let us know when you hit 50,000 miles.
Outta curiosity what do you hear when it goes? I'm getting a kinda chirpy clicky noise through my gas tank and thighs while riding
Many many thanks Kev. CCTs done today with help from your video. I have to say the front was a lot easier than I expected. Had more hassle reconnecting pipes and electrical connectors☺️ only problem I had was dropping the rear bolt which disappeared under the throttle bodies. Soon got that out with the help of my little endoscope with attached magnet😏. A good afternoons work. Your videos are invaluable to the likes of me who can't afford garage prices but are willing to have a go (with a good instructional video) and also learn more about their bikes.
Keep up the brilliant video 👍🏼
At 27500 my front one went on my 2015, Kev - this video is fantastic, saved me hours of work and did it in about 2 and a half hours. Pulling out the old one was terrifying but you made it easy to follow. Thank you so much!
was there any serious damage when the tensioner failed? I'm getting a used VFR with 56k km on the clock and I'm wondering if I should change them asap.
@@papercut1987 They might have already been done! Luckily I was parking up at home and it made a horrific metallic loose slappy sound so hit the kill switch straight away. You'll be able to hear the warning signs very easily (slappy knocky noise) if you have a listen to your engine. Front right near the frame and at the rear right behind the brake lever. Just make sure the engine is nice and up to temperature when you listen as they sound fairly agricultural as standard...!
Hi everyone,
First of all, great video it helped me a lot. And to everyone who lost the cap on the second tensioner: it will probably land on top of the rail for the chain that is just above the crank. I had to remove the cluch cover to get to it an searched for about 4 hours...
Thanks mate. Just finished fitting both tensioners. It sounds like new again. Brilliant
I found that moving the airbox just slightly gave enough room. I only removed 3 connections at the top right corner,2 vacuum pipes and a plug. Second time I've done this job recently as first time I did the tune up on the old tensioner but didn't last long,a few hundred miles before it was ticking again. New tensioner now fitted.
Just done mine, thanks for the info & tips , top one is a real pain, dropped a bolt but blocked the hole while i recovered with magnetic screw driver, one thing i did do was to make a tool to hold & turn the key, had an old tooth brush in my box , cut end square & a slot to hold the key, worked a treat !!
At the beginning of the video I expected you doing this over a few days...But it looked surprisingly easy, of course like most bikes fiddly but not the mare i was expecting ...Good job Sir...
Ho già eseguito alcuni lavori sul mio VFR e oggi proverò a sostituire i tenditori seguendo le tue istruzioni. Ti ringrazio perché i tuoi videi sono davvero chiari e molto utili.
I love my 5th gen with gear driven cams!! great work mate, watched this anyway even though I'll never buy a vtec.
Thanks Kev for the great video!!! Did it myself today and it was very doable thanks to your instructions (took me only 4 hours haha).
What perfect timing! I got my new CCTs in yesterday evening and plan on replacing them today. Thanks for another great instructional video!
Glad it was helpful!
Where’d ya get em ...tjmurf5256@gmail.com thanks mate
Used your video as a guide to help me change my CCTs. Thank you for the easy to follow video.
👌🏻😎
A brilliant video which gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Followed your advice and sent off to the same seller for the new parts and didn't take long to arrive.
Keep up the great vfr videos 👌
Cheers mate, glad it helped 👍🏻
I am going to change my 2005 VFR800 cam chain tensioners and this video was an amazing guide and inspiration. Job well done!! thanks and keep tjose videos coming. Cheers mate.
Thank you for the Video, Get my replaced on my 2004 VFR at 15k plus, based on your video.
Done it yesterday on my bike.
Thanks a lot for your video. Very helpful!!
No problem 👍
Did it myself to thanks to your vid. Easy job and saved me money and teached me something new. Now gotta replace radiator on clutch side and back on the road. Great vids thanks 👍👍
Glad it helped👌😎
Mine have just gone rattly at 45000, great video as i was going to take it to a garage but well within my scope, i see another tip to tap the cap gently to put it a bit off shape & makes a tight fit !! .........another brilliant video Kev, keep up the good work
Excellent video - thanks v much for taking the time to publish it.
Did not expect to see that lovely alpina in the background 😍 due to grab a VFR so wanted to know it was an easy enough job just in case. Cheers. Subbed.
Thank you very much Kevs ! I have just buy a vfr v-tec '03, and I have to do this work to change these parts. Hugs from Italy !
👌🏻😎
Cheers for the video had a bad rattle on my vfr drilled out the cam chain tensioner gasket to 2mm and done a oil change which made the rattle go thank you 👍
Thanks for the video! Will be giving this a try on my 02 when I get the new tensioners. Wish me luck. Cheers!
Good luck!
Awesome video Kev, thank you! Was contemplating on taking my '07 VFR to a shop but you just convinced me to do otherwise. Thanks brother!
Glad I could help 👍🤓
Any issues? Started mine up this morning and sure enough at 44k the front tensioner is bad.
I'm going to put manual ones in mine. Thanks for the how-to, kev. Always a good watch.
just finished installing the front one. Could not of done it without you! THank you!
Hi Kev, awesome video, thank you very much, I have a 05 and the front tensioner is very noisy, will be replacing both, once again thank you very much, Johan, South Africa
Fair play my cbr it's just remove the seat and side fairing haha, definitely tempted for a vfr for my next bike your videos are really useful thank you
The eBay link only took 8days to arrive from Japan 👍... Copper washers also bought from eBay. Will be following along and doing this in the next week. Thanks again Kev, awesome!
Awesome! 👌🏻😎
Thanks for this, Kev. As I write, I’m expecting a new tensioner to arrive for my little 125cc cafe racer the following day, so I’ll have this video on standby in the shed. Just as a note, in case it helps, my Haynes manual says the tensioner bolts for my engine type (a copy of a Yamaha YBR 125) should be torqued at 10NM, while the cap bolt should be torqued at 8NM.
Great video yet again Kev. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Wow, ive never thought its was that simple!
Thank God I've only got small hands. Great video Kev😉
Yeah but small hands make other things look bigger! 😂👍
Got that info, thanks mate, think ile go with mechanic I’ve been using, so far the garage hasn’t let me down & a whole lot cheaper than Honda, the OEM Alternator & Upgraded Rectifier (CM Stator) are working smoothly with No burning smells after opening it out a bit, just checked out these ccts at £73 each plus £16 p&p maybe with VAT I might as well buy local .....Anyway Appreciate all yr help mate, buy you a pint if I ever see you. Thanks again.
Great video, I managed to swap them both fairly easily. The front was a bit awkward and did drop the end bolt and new washers a few times but avoided the big issue of the caps falling off. The bike is now running mint (also did the fluids and filters at the same time) but I do have a FI light, need to investigate
FI light was a vacuum hose had came loose from the air box :)
Sent off for em at £156.60 all in ( p & p ) hopefully No v a t ... anyway thanks again ...once I get a garage ginna start to learn a bit myself, Great videos.
Another cracking video Kev. I've put a watch on the tensioners on my ebay account. I don't need them yet but you never know.
Cool man!
Thanks a lot. Good job.
Great work and thanks for the info , didn't think it was so simple to do. Only thing is could you improve the lighting when filming as your working inside, but still a great watch !!
Cheers mate, I agree, the lighting could be better but that will be solved very soon once my new workshop is completed. The lighting in there is fantastic 👌🏻
Thanks Kev. Yhat tensioner on top was a bloody bitch to remove but, with your help, I nailed it. What you didn't mention was how long it was going to take to remove the air box. Maybe I'm a bit mental but I didn't enjoy that at all. And re-installing? Fk it! Why bother. Thanks again Kev. Next stop, fork seals. 30:39
Thanks for the instructional video Kevin. My '02 is making a horrible sound, mostly up front. I'll replace both in the near future now that I've watched how it's done. I bought the bike 18 months ago with 50k miles on her and I've added 20k since. Don't know if the originals are still on there. All I know is that they need replacing.
You've got a new subscriber, mate.
CHEERS from California.
Cheers buddy, glad you liked it!
@@KevsShed
Front and rear are same part #?
@@kevlarV2rocketRSV Yes mate, identical.
Very usefull and practical video as always. I removed both CCT from my VFR800 A2 and replaced them for a brand new ones. I am a bit scared that the cap comes off and falls inside the engine as the It doesn´t fit the CCT very tight. This might sound crazy, but could I put a tiny little bit of glue or gasket maker insdie the cap in order to make sure it remains attached and doesn´t fall off? Thanks!
Another great video kev with easy to follow instructions how to change the ccts. I presume they tensioners are exactly the same for front and rear?
TIA.
Yes mate, identical bud 👌🏻
Hiya kev thanks for you brilliant videos how wound I know if my cam chain has jumped would the bike not start or run terrible
Very good informative video.
I have a 2008 Honda ST1300 that I think needs at least one tensioner. I'm changing shims and I retracted the cam chain tension bolt with a screwdriver and it doesn't spring back at all. I turn it in and out with resistance? I see your tensioner still had lots of spring tension. Why did you change yours? Did it lose it's spring tension? Weak spring causing chain noise?
One thing I can add to your well done video. You don't need to retract the tensioner to remove them, just on install. You will just fight the minor spring tension when loosening the bolts. Maybe that end piece falling off is why you wanted to do it to keep it centered?
I replaced the tensioner in my Honda Rincon 4 wheeler a while back and think I can use the same small tool to retract the spring. If not I'll use a 1/8" slot screwdriver.
Again, well done!
Good vid i have a 2015 model which is the same lump and frame not heard of any faults with the later model.
Cheers mate
I have a 2001 superhawk vtr1000 but I don't see any videos on doing this for that bike..... is this the same method for that bike just basically take it off and put a new one in? I thought it would be some kind of big job looks pretty easy
I did mine at 45, they were getting clattery. Also did the chain rails. Quite a finicky job! I also have those Microns on mine, they sound the bollocks, don't they?!
Yeah I love the sound of them! 👌🏻
Hi great video ! I have a CBR 600 f3, dis you have to set the engine to TDC?
Thanks
Thanks!!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the nice video.
Is this part number valid for vfr 800 2004 year?
Hi Kev great video as usual your really helping Viffer owners out there, just ordered two from Japan ones noisey so going to do both quick question the 6mm copper washer on the back of the tensioner any idea what is the outside diameter ? Many thanks
Hi Steve, glad you found it helpful mate, they are M6 X 10mm washers that I got from ebay, here's the link.
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FCopper-Sealing-Washers-Metric-M4-M6-M8-M10-M12-M14-M16-M20-Flat-Seal-Washer%2F123038741250%3Fvar%3D423471192747%26hash%3Ditem1ca5ae3302%3Ag%3AsU8AAOSw3dtaqBE2&campid=5338707657&toolid=10001&customid=
Hope this helps.
@@KevsShed Thanks Kev cheers for the link much appreciated,keep up the good work
Hi Kev great video as usual helped me change mine, one quick question what brand make of torque wrench do you use looks easy to set to correct value, Thanks
This is the exact one that I have, this one is quite a bit cheaper than what I paid too! 👍🤓
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FHalfords-Professional-Torque-Wrench-10-60-Nm-3-8-DRIVE%2F233853065276%3Fhash%3Ditem3672ba983c%3Ag%3A7AgAAOSwol5f-dDT&campid=5338707657&toolid=10001&customid=
@@KevsShed Thanks Kev finally got one £32 bargain great bit of kit
Would it help to just take the old one put and reset it and put it back in? I bought a vfr thats nocking pretty bad around chain area
Just finished the video. Thanks for uploading and great timing as I have some time off coming up soon.
I'll definitely be using your link.
Any help regarding the copper washer would be great, did I hear you say you annealed it first? Is that just heating it and rapid cooling?
Parts ordered from the link. Mine are making a right racket on Idol.
Do I need a couple of M6 flat copper washers or a hollow crush type like sump seal washer, I assume flat?
I just used a couple of standard copper washers from a box I gave around the garage, you’ll get them anywhere! Annealing is heating till cherry red and then allowing to cool naturally, this aligns all the molecules and means that it is in a softer state. The act of tightening the bolt onto the washer work hardens it again and creates a far better seal.
How do i know when to replace the CCT's?
Love your vids and i noticed that we use the same types of cans (micron). Love them ❤️
You will hear excessive chain noise from the right hand side of the engine. If you do, replace them as soon as possible.
Hey Kev. Thanks again for all the work you put into these videos. Do you know how to source a cam chain tensioner tool, short of buying whole new cam chain tensioners? I'm considering checking the valve clearances this winter, but I need that tool and don't need to replace the whole tensioners yet. Thanks!
I’m not sure that they are available separately but you could grind down a small screwdriver to fit. If you have a Haynes manual then I’m pretty sure that it gives you all the details needed to make a tool yourself! 👍🏻
@@KevsShed Thanks. That's super helpful. Cheers!
Hi Kev. Brilliant video thanks for posting such brilliant help and advice. I have tackled this job today and have found a particular issue and would like your thoughts and suggestion. I removed the front tensioner and found there to be no metal cap on it. After 2 minutes of panic I had a closer look at the removed CCt. There is a circular indentation on it, (witness mark). This is exactly the same size as the circular disc on the cam chain guide that I can see down the hole in the cylinder head. I have never had the tensioners out. I have had the bike 12 years since it had 16k on it. It's now done 44k. Valve clearances were done at 32k in the correct way. I have never had an issue with the running of the bike, and at this stage wondering at the possibility of there not having been a cap on it in the first place? The witness mark on the rubber leaves me to think this. Could I have your thoughts please. What would I have to remove if I wanted to categorically check there wasnt the bit down there? Many thanks Dave.
I have read before of a few people that have found there to be no cap on their tensioners as they've removed them. I would say yours is probably the same. I wouldn't worry about it mate. 👌🤓
@@KevsShed Thanks Kev. If you dont mind I will take a pic of the tensioner that I removed for you to cast your eyes over. If you're still of the same mind then I will assume there hasnt been one on there for a long time. The only thought I have had since is the possibility that it dropped off when the heads were off when the valves clearances were done.
Awesome video, thanks for that, I learned a lot. Now my turn...
Glad I could help 🤓👍
Kev, I used the wee tool back off the old (bottom)tensioner but not having any joy in getting it to turn. Can it be taken off without backing it off or is it nessesary?
It’s ok I got it 😊
Hi, I'm about to do the job on my VFR. For my experience on the CBR F4i the problem on the CCT is the low default spring tension. What do u think about opening the stock CCT and add preload to the spring (just 2 or 3 turns)?
Unsure to be honest, I have seen other videos where the guy did this. I have not seen any evidence to suggest that it’s good or bad to be fair!
hi kev
i have replaced the back one no problem and when I pulled the top one the cap was missing
I have taken the clutch cover at the bottom off and the tappet cover but nowhere to be found I can see the whole assembly but cant see the cap?
It is very possible that it wasn't ever fitted to the tensioner, if it had come off as you removed it then you would have heard it clatter to the bottom of the engine.
Question for you, Kev (or anyone else watching). Here in the US, the popular sellers of Honda OEM parts list a separate front and back CCT with different Honda part numbers. Are there really two different ones? i bought my VFR used, and the seller handed me a bag with two new CCT's in it, but nothing to tell me whether they're the same or different (and if different, which one is which). I can't see a difference between the two, so wondering if I'm good to go or whether I need to worry that one isn't the correct one. Gratefully accepting all knowledge and opinions...
Hey buddy, my parts catalogue lists the cam chain tensioners as part number 14520MCW013 replacing part number 1452MCW003 for both front and rear.
Hey. Great video. I've got a subtle ticking at idle, and a loud clattering while riding my 03. From my limited knowledge and research, I'm thinking it's probably the CCT's. Anyway, regarding drilling bigger holes in the gaskets for better oil flow. You mentioned a 2mm drill bit. 2mm looks to be many times larger than the pinhole that it comes with. Have you experienced or heard of any issues with expanding the hole to 2mm? I'm just wondering if that's making it too big at all. Thanks. Take care, and Hello from Toronto.
The hole in the cct itself is much larger than the hole in the gasket. I’ve ran my bike for quite a few miles this way now and can report zero ill effects 👌🏻
I left it as it is. My view is they have lasted 30k as they were so another 30k would be fine
Love your vids and have same bike. Is the part number the same for both front and rear tensioners?? Thanks
Identical mate 👍🏻 I’ve popped a link in the description to the cheapest I could find them anywhere 👌🏻
Yeah I seen link and gonna order 2 next wk thanks a mill 👍 top vids too well done
Kev. Is it possible for me to take the cct's out and rewind them tightening the spring slightly as opposed to having to purchase new ones as seen a video showing how to do this. I'm assuming this is my problem as got rattling noise as you demonstrated but my vfr800 only done 17k miles.
Your bike so your choice mate. Personally I wouldn't attempt that on such a critical engine component, but like I said, it's your money bud!
Hi there, fantastic video! I just follow it and replaced the front with an OEM. However, I think something may have gone wrong since she wont start now (turns over and sputters but won't catch)
When I was taking out the old CCT, I didn't need to wind it up at all; it was already fully retracted (couldn't turn the slot clockwise any further). I just had to insert the key to hold in place. When I replaced it with the new one, it didn't "spring out" like yours did; I didn't think anything of it since the old one was full retracted as well.
Do you think that points to an issue in installation? I tore her apart again and triple checked all the connectors, etc but they all seemed alright, so I think it might have to do with the CCT and not the connectors.
Thanks for any help or pointers!
I had the exact same situation come up when I did front CCT last weekend. Old one came out smooth, new one went in smooth and didn’t require any winding to bolt in, and now the bike almost starts but won’t. Researching…
Have either of you discovered what the issue was since posting your comments?
Is it procedure the same for the gen 5 with the gear driven cams?
Is this a trick question? 😏
is it vitaly necessary to wind the old ones in before removing? what would happen if you just lock them as is and then take them off?
I didn't wind mine in when removing. You just need to be careful and pull them straight out so you don't knock the cap off. Winding them up just gives you a bit more clearance. The rear is extremely easy to pull straight out. The front is a bit more difficult. I disconnected the small coolant line that runs right in the way and it gave me enough clearance.
As Spenser said above you can of course not bother but the body of the CCT will try to push itself away from the head under the pressure of the spring as you undo the bolts.
@@KevsShed Yeah, I forgot to mention that. Since I didn't compress them I had to alternate backing out each bolt a half turn at a time so it came out straight. In hindsight it would've been much easier to compress them since a new CCT comes with the key anyway. I am impatient and got the old CCTs out prior to my replacements arriving.
Hey Kev have you seen RUclips vid where the guy didn't buy new tensioners but just adjusted the oem ones
I know mate, I’ve seen that video too, like I always say, it’s your bike and your choice! I personally wouldn’t trust it, remember, £58 each for brand new ones is a small price to pay compared to catastrophic engine damage caused by being overly cheap!
Is it the same cct for each side of the bike or is it part no. Specific for each redirection side?
Exactly the same bud 👌🏻
@KevsShed thanks a ton! Your vids got me through much of my own rebuilds! You're doing great work!
KEV, PROBABLY A DAFT QUESTION BUT WHY DO YOU HAVE TO WIND THE TENSION BACK WHEN REMOVING, IS IT NOT POSSIBLE TO REMOVE EXTENDED. THANKS GREAT ARTICLE
You don’t have to, strictly speaking, but if you don’t then there will be constant tension on the chain as you undo the bolts! Don’t forget that you need to make sure that you can grab that little cap as you withdraw it! 👍🏻
hi Kev, I bought a vfr with 80k.
when the bike is cold the chain makes a noise.
after reading about the bike, i thought it was just one of the tensioners.
I went to the mechanic to listen to the sound.
According to the mechanic the chains should be changed....
Is there any way to see if the chain is stretched?
In the manual it is recommended to change the chains after 50k km
But I have not found anyone who has changed them.
What are your thoughts?
Regards.
In my experience it is never the actual chain, the tensioners on these are notorious for becoming weak and allowing a little chain noise. I'm confident that if you just change the tensioners your noise will be cured mate. Good Luck!
@@KevsShed That's what I thought all the time, I'll let you know the result,
I'll change the tensioners following your video. Thank you for your work.
@@KevsShed Update
i changed them
there are no noises I am very happy. Thank you so much
Hi, quick one out of curiosity.
Can you just remove the old tensioner without winding it back ?
Surely it will just push against the bolts as you unwind them and the whole lot would pop off as you get to the end of the bolt ?
Of course it would, however you have no real control over the cap on the end of the tensioner, if it catches on the inside of the hole and falls off inside the engine case then you'll have a much more torrid time recovering it than if you'd spent a minute and a half winding the tensioner back first! Naturally do it however you want, it's your bike but I like to demonstrate it the way the manual does!
@@KevsShed wouldn't the cap just sit against the chain until you withdraw it ?
What sort of clearance do you have between the bore and the tensioner cap ?
Not saying you're wrong, I haven't done it before so more just a thing of curiosity tbh.
(I'm a manual and torque spec kinda guy myself, just wondering what the logic behind it is)
What are your thoughts on manual tensioners ?
Are there improved oem style ones available on the aftermarket that you have heard good things about?
What size hat do you wear ?
(Might as well ask, I've asked everything else 😂)
There is very little clearance between the cap and the bore to be fair, I prefer to err on the side of caution and wind it back first. I haven't personally ever fitted a manual tensioner so can't pass comment on them in all honesty, I do know that there are a great many people out there that swear by them so they can't be bad I guess!
I have 58cm dome so usually wear an XL hat! 😂
Thanks for taking time out to leave some constructive comments! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed appreciate the direct and honest responses !
I'll be keeping an eye on your channel going forward. (Bought a VFR800 late last night).
Thanks a million :)
Hi dude, got some info which may be useful.
Standard Torque Values for an 8mm bolt is 22Nm as per section 1-12 in the manual (pg 15 in the pdf).
Cylinder Head/Valves section 1-13 on pg 16 of the pdf list Cam Chain Tensioner Flange Bolts as 26Nm with NOTE 2 in the Remarks; this meaning Apply Locking Agent to the Threads.
(this is repeated in Cylinder Head/Valves section 8-4 pg 267 and 8-35 pg 295).
Now, like yourself, I initially didn't see a torque spec but stumbled upon them later and went back to do it properly and 26Nm felt risky so I left it at 20Nm.
Also didn't notice any loctite on the bolts that came out ... so am slightly confused as to why all this is so conflicting.
Also found some strange errors in the manual eg pg 87 section 3-4 has intervals in KM and Miles but they are way out of sync miles:km, 0.6:10, 4:64, 8:128 etc up to 24:384
Likely a formula error in excel or something that slipped through the cracks.
Not sure if it's pertinent but it sure makes you wonder what else is erroneous.
Finally, I noticed in the service video you have your velocity stacks installed 1 short and 1 long in the front and the same in the rear, I mention this because that is what is shown in the Honda Diagrams ... however it seems that there is some contention around this.
Mine were installed with 2 short in the front and 2 long in the rear, this seems to be the same with any images or videos I saw online, and the manual had me second guessing; not a major issue but could be something worth looking into.
Interesting about the velocity stacks, there is as you say a great deal of conjecture about these! 👍🤓
Hi Kev, can’t get link to buy ccts. Gonna getthe valve tuning done so thought I may as well get these replaced as well...do you personally know of decent mechanic like yrself who will do a conciensciouss job for cash, am in north London but prepared t travel n drop it off fr as long as it takes for a decent job .Thanks mate
Here's the link mate, not sure why it wouldn't work for you. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-LIFTER-AND-GASKET-VFR800-VTEC-VFR800X-VFR800F/123338314739?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&mkcid=1&campid=5338707657&toolid=10001&customid=&mkevt=1
I don't know any conscientious mechanics mate unfortunately, that's why I don't use em! 🤔
if the tensioner is at end of life, then wouldn't that mean the cam chain itself is stretched to the point of needing replacement?
No, on the contrary. The tensioners get loose with age and don’t apply the correct tension to the chain and can make the chain rattle.
a guy left me in a 2004 vtec today to replace the tensioner it has a noise around 6500 7000 rpm i reckon it could be valve clearance needs looking at 24k miles
I have a video for that job too! Actually 3 videos, but you get the idea! ✌
@@KevsShed must watch it a changed the tensioners yesterday and all good
RC36 for ever.....no cam chainer ...no tensioner... only alternator and rectifier problem like to vtec 800👍👍👍
Does anybody have the Ebay link plz!
It’s in the video description mate 👍🏻
Hiya again sent of for these at £156.60 with p£
i didnt know there was 2 of those on bikes
Yeah most bikes have 1 if they are in a straight 4 config, it’s only because it has 2 banks of cylinders that it needs 2. Would have been far simpler and more maintenance free to have stuck with geared cams like previous models! 👍🏻
@@KevsShed ok cool
Yeah I see the place to get to the ACCT is very awkward. Can I make a recommendation, to yourself and any other mechanics? Yes? I heard YES... Please remove ALL jewelery (watches, rings and chains... nose rings are optional) as well as any clothing that has metal bitz that can scratch. Please DON'T scratch the bike.
Hi Kev, I've just watched a video: " how to rebuilt a camshaft chain tensioner for VFR" . This is the link: ruclips.net/video/XG6c_uhrVOw/видео.html . What do you think about? Is it better replace with news one, as you done? I hope you are fine, have a nice day,
Alex from Italy.
10x for the video. I have a 2003 vfr with this noise ruclips.net/video/-mEl-9dtlEg/видео.html. Could it be the rear tensioner?
Yes it could but that noise could just as easily be a leaking exhaust gasket! The rear tensioner is less prone to failure than the front one so if the front one is fine then it probably isn't the rear tensioner. That said, change it anyway if you are worried, for the peace of mind of knowing, why not! It's a very important engine component!
brilliant video. Just brought a 2003, had the tickover really high so I lowered it. The high tickover was maksing the cam tensioner rattling... will order two from Japan. Were you not tempted with the manual ones?