Repairing 3 Interesting O Gauge Diesels, common problems that are easily fixed - WithTest Run!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- These were the first 3 engines that were picked to be repaired from the large collection that I received about a month ago. The engines are a U36C Chessie / Western Maryland (Lionel Late MPC/LLC Era), SD24 Canadian Pacific (Lionel Late MPC / LLC Era) and MP15DC Kennecott Copper Corp (1997 K-Line). All engines required basic maintenance that you can do at home without the help of a train shop technician.
The Kennecott Copper Corp engine's wheel repairs would be considered a more advanced repair (in my opinion).
Hobby Grease - Moly Grease by Woodland Scenics - www.amazon.com...
CRC - Electrical lubricant - www.amazon.com...
CRC - Electrical Contact Cleaner - www.amazon.com...
Hope this was helpful!
Happy Railroading!
This came back up in my feed today. I found myself saying “Wait! Nik knows better than that!” Then I saw the video was from 2 years ago. Always fun to look back and see our growth over time.
Haha 😂 forever on the internet, but we’ve come a long way
I was amazed it ran after all of the oil you applied to the motor. I personally would not use any spray lubricant on or inside the end bell like you did. The only oil required there is on the armature shaft hole so it can travel down to the motor bushing. I like the way you greased the gear train but unless I missed something in the video you missed all 12 bushings on the axles to lubricate them it only takes a drop of a light viscosity oil on each one to greatly improve the engines performance. I personally do not use wd-40 in any of my trains. Labelle's make a good line of lubrication products for your model trains.
The Maple Leaf Limited set from 1981with a Canadian Pacific SD24 was my very first train. I was 3 y/o then and I still have the set today. (It mostly lives on my shelf above the layout) lol Thanks Nick
Thanks for watching! That is such a cool first set! I’m surprised that engine could pull all those cars
Thanks Nick. Always enjoy the collaboration amongst us who share similar interest and views within this hobby. Enjoy knowing there is the younger generation that has the appreciation and compassion for the postwar, MPC, and modern Era creations. My experience with maintaing the MPC pullmore motors to access the worn gears can and should be accessed for lubrication is removing the brush plate and pulling out the motor armature revealing metal gears which are usually dry or completely gummed up with dry lube and needs serving. The instructions for reinstalling the allen screw in the brush plate is to tighten it untill it contacts the brush plate and back it off a couple turns. The plastic gears were typically impregnated with silicone and I only use silicone spray lubrication to lubricate when they seem dry. Be careful not to get this on any surface you plan to paint as it's almost impossible to remove and paint will not stick to any surface that silicone is on. Silicone is the safest lubricant to us on plastic.
Thanks so much for watching and for all the excellent information on these. These engines are still running strong almost 2 years later from the time of filming this video.
Nicely detailed video. Just a couple comments. To reinforce what you said, WD40 is not primarily a lubricant. It is a solvent (cleaner) / water displacer (that’s what WD stands for). The perception of lubrication is due to it cleaning the inside of joints. Also, around electronics of any form, aerosol spray lubricants are not recommended without a directional straw because of overspray.
That’s an excellent point , thanks for the comment. I only use WD40 now on polishing post war metal shells and trucks. CRC and 3/1 oil is the way to go
@@NixCrossing 3in1 Oil is really great especially for the armature area as it cleans as well as lubricates. One of my Go to oils for repairs on all small motors.
Nice video very well done. Much appreciated. Gary
The Canadian engine is early 80’s I got that engine in 1984 in a maple leaf set
That is such a cool set. I unfortunately do not have the box and boxes.
Thank you. I have the same exact Canadian Pacific Locomotive. I just mirrored the service you performed on it. Now it runs like a champ.
Thsnks so much for watching! Glad I could help 🚂💨
I have 2 Monon U36Bs that I bought One was a basket case and needed a new armature and E unit the other just needed a minor repair. I think you will find that the cab light bulb just clips into the bracket up there and is easily removed without damaging anything. On both my units the plastic axle gear had separated from the axle. This was repaired by carefully supergluing it back to the axle. Both run very well now.
Thanks so much for watching! Those parts are crazy hard to find and I’d argue that the MPC parts are harder to find than post / pre war metal cast parts. Those nylon gears always fell apart. I actually ended up getting rid of a lot of these for trade.🚂💨
First video I seen of your's I think. I watched it because so far I have not seen anyone work on a K-line engine on RUclips. So thanks for the three engine show. Now I like to be helpful. I made some errors as a kid and in my 20's with model trains, I'm now in my 50's. First on the first Lionel MPC era engine. Unscrewing that set Allen screw can be big trouble. I broke the plastic on one since it had locktite on it. So it is wise to unscrew the two Phillips screws, and carefully lift up the top assembly on that motor. Slowly as to not break the 2 winding wires to the field coil. Get the two brushes and at this point you will have access to the motor worm gear by simply turning the wheels or turning the armature to un-wind it out. You then can grease or oil it and the top armature tip then. Also some of them have a little ball up in there as well. On the second engine similar thought as well. The sound board; all Lionel and some others used a piece of foam to set the board on and in time that foam erodes away and then the circuit shorts out and the electronics are damaged. Age will often have the capacitors go bad and they can be repaired.
First time in my life, I had the flaming e unit event after using the cleaner yesterday. That got my attention real quick.
I’ve only had one engine fire because the cloth wiring shorted out to the frame on one of my prewar engines.
Nice job
Nick, please do a video on replacing smoke units and fan motors on mth engines. So far, not found any how to videos on line. Gary
Very informal. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much ! Stay tuned , I’ll be filming at the B&O RR museum this coming Sunday.
On the last unit if you untied the wire bundle you might have more room to move the truck around. Easy enough to retie it when you are done. The PCB shouldn't be too difficult to debug. It looks like it has rectifier diodes to convert from AC to DC. Then power transistors which are probably in an H Bridge configuration to switch directions. Plus Resistors. When the capacitors fail they will look like they are leaking or bulging.
I've never used spray cleaner on my HO cars. If you remove the brush plate it looks like we could easily clean the brushes and commutator. On the HO cars I only add one drop of oil to the motor shaft.
I have a sticky j1950's Santa Fe Diesel that needs some attention so thank you for the tips.
Thanks for watching and for the information on these 👍🏻🚂💨😊
YOU NEVER OIL BRUSHES - pull the set screw above armature - 2 drops oil - set screw back - turn in until contact with armature then back out 1/2 turn. Now replace the brushes you just made soft - clean reversing unit with DeOxit D5 - - lightly lubricate cog if needed - keep off electrical contacts D5 does that.
You are 100% right thank you
Liked your service video.
But your use of lubricants is a little wrong. Always it’s advisable to use plastic safe lubricants. Labella makes an excellent set of oils and gear grease . All safe for plastics.
Molybdenum is a conductor ( graphite)
As for the K-line engine and Lionel and some others use a similar set up and vinyl or plastic gears. Yes be aware some grease will cake up and get hard and cause things to lock up. However the most important part to oil, is the pivot point of all wheels and gears. On these DC motor wheel sets that gear shaft is part of the motor frame mold. As it wears without oil the gear flops around and then the gear gets smashed or broken. So most will blame the plastic gears but the real problem is the plastic shaft and the lack of oil on these. Yes, I hate oil to get on the track, but to protect these gears sets you should have a track for oiling and run the train on there for a while after oiling and then whip off any that you can before running it with your layout. My first experience of the plastic wearing out was with the MPC 4-4-2 steam engine, the motor shaft plastic gear plate at the first gear got that hole very sloppy. A winny sound from your motor is often the armature ends that are dry.
interesting but the gears are made of a material called DELRIN. in this service they require no lubrication at all.Petroleum based libes have a tendancy to degrade the actual truck plastic. A dry graphite or moly powder or something would be my choice.
I found it interesting that on the first engine that Lionel did not paint where the wheel set of the motor pivots. Yes, it gets it outer wheel contact from that area, and that made a better contact point with bare metal there. Also those early 6 wheel trucks; Lionel MPC made error and did not put a groove and rubber tire on the center wheel set, so the engine can get hung up on a hill or irregular track hump. I had the Milwaukee SD-18 that had that problem, nice power motor otherwise.
On those 6 wheel trucks, the center wheel is blind (no flange) so that the truck will negotiate tighter curves. Might not be the best place for a traction tire. But not a bad idea.
I believe contact cleaner is carbon tetra cloride. Keep it off paint. Some paints desolve. Nice video.
Thanks for watching! For track I just use denatured alcohol with my track cleaning car.
8061 was manufactured in 1980 for the Royal Limited set,
8152 was manufactured in 1981 for the Maple Leaf Set
For a time MPC used the second digit to note the year , so 0 could be 1970 or 1980
Thanks so much! I’m always learning about these classic sets
First, you may want to replace that foam under that sound board. Those disintegrate after time and the board will short out. Also NEVER lubricate the plunger on the solenoid for the E unit. The contact cleaner is all you want to clean that area.Just shoot it up there and let it dry. Oil or lubricant will cause it to stick.
Hey thanks for watching! This was on the old layout, I now use thinner foam but I do miss the old stuff to hide my buildings / accessories. Thanks for all the pointers 🚂💨
@@NixCrossing Happy to help,
Where can I find drive units/wheels/gears for a Kline MP-15. Have the same KCC engine, missing some of the traction bands and at least one wheel is fractured.
I would check Trainz for parts first, then the Lionel parts website. Lionel adopted those trucks in the late 90s. You might have better luck with buying a parts train as well. Hope this helps
East coast train parts goes to most greenberg train shows for probably 25 years. The guy knows his stuff, often by sight and has a crazy big inventory of parts not easily found elsewhere. Good prices. Just bring your stuff with you and show him. He doesnt do repairs but often has great suggestions. He answers e mails promptly.. dont forget those 5$ junk piles at train shows.. Gary
Can the MP15s wheels be replaced with postwar ones with magnitraction?
I think it would be difficult because the DC motors are located in the trucks. That would be an excellent modification.
Yeah. The way I see it is that the traction tires insulate the wheels, so if it had magnitraction the engine would have a better ground
Good video but you never oil brushes you clean them
Thanks so much! recently started using a degreaser then coat everything in 2-27 then wipe everything down. Seams to be extremely effective on my pre war motors