Two ways to replace a USB-C port - Lenovo Yoga X1 USB Type C port replacement
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2022
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You make it look so easy. If I was doing it all those tiny components near the sockets would have de-soldered and flown away!
So fast yet professional.
Thank you so much again.
Sorin represent more than just repair and tutorials. He is a source of courage for many like me. Am still a student and seeing Sorin do all of these then am not worried at all.
I would always have doubts if there are no shorts, especially because the connections are UNDER the port. But it is obvious that you know what you are doing.
amazing job as allways ! Respect Mr. Sorin
hey just recently found you and im loving the content
The same happened to me! From that time I never missed a new video.
Had a Lenovo Yoga that fried two m.2 nVME external drives - fried the controller on both - some smoke as well. Thankfully it did not destroy the 500GB m.2 drive inside. Good thing that the laptop was out of warranty - and just decom'd it. Salvaged what I could from it for parts. Too bad there is no device to check current draw on USB-C. or shorts for that matter. Excellent work on the repair.
Thought for sure this wouldn't go well. Many small components next to it. Used capt tape, a dab of flux. She came right off. Great video, always a good watch !
Weekend and still working
You are great. To give us this nice Howe to do it professional
Your work is always nice
Sorin I’m missing your hot glue repairs lol. Stay warm my friend.
Good job Dear Sorin
Great video thanks, i snapped one port tripping over the cable but will probably get the repair shop to do it for lack of equipment. Good to know though.
Another great one. Thanks! Almost no flies here in northern China. Mosquitoes yes.
Good job mate 👍
Super! De preferat din spatele plăcii dar atenție ce e pe spate! Să nu topești ceva. Sănătate!
Just want to note that two-sided heating, i.e. preheating the bottom of the motherboard with ports to 150-200 degrees, makes such soldering much easier when using a heat gun on top.
thank you sir
What's that proper calibrated screw at 10:51?
Hi Sorin, the second method is Akitatek's technique 😁, a USB -c port is tested in both directions
perfect thank you
PERFECT!
Perfect 👌
Nice!
Perfect.
Mr Sorin, i think you may have blown away one of the input diodes, ed3418, no big deal it is just a transient / esd protection, but still, hopefully you caught it...
I am sure he has put it in afterwards, and secured it in place with hot glue! 🙂
Hi sorin! I've been following you for quite a while and in a recent video you said you can identify a dead cpu by the way the alcohol evaporates from it, I have a notebook that freezes on the initial splash screen, I opened it and noticed the dedicated gpu chip was getting way too hot right away, and it's not a gaming laptop it's one of those laptop that don't even have heatpipe coolers it's just a chunk of aluminium so it was not supposed to get that hot, is it possible a notebook can have a fied gpu and still have video the way I described? thanks!
Sorin can you explain more on why you are waiting 2 seconds and then you are reheating the port and moving it?
What's the port called? Is it universal? I want to replace the USB C on my Lenovo Yoga Slim charging port.
Hi, what would be typical price for this type of repair? I think the usb port on my Thinkpad T480 is defective.
Very good tutorial. You said you use 360º but... How much air flow do you use? Do you use a Quick? What type of solder do you use? Thank you. Greetings from Spain
When you say low melt solder, do you just mean leaded solder or actual low melt solder
lenovo x280 charging port is damaged can I use thunderbold 3 as a substitute or will it have some bad long time effect
Generally we also follow second method
what part number is that you removed -- i need same
I prefer to remove the port using the low melt solder, I do not want to overheat the board, and I will remove it totally later using a wick and then solder a new port using a regular leaded solder
@Ed Straker this is what i said, for desoldering only
@@ronlevin2339 Yes, you're right. But I think what he reffers as "low melt" is leaded 63/37 that melts exactly at 183°C. It's wrong to call this type of solder "low melt". Low Melt solder is not used for soldering, only desoldering.
I wouldn't do it that way. I would use wick to clean the leg holes and apply leaded solder to the pads, and then reflow the connector in place, and after that just solder the legs. Also there is another type of Lenovo USB-C port, which is a nightmare to solder because it has legs, pads and through hole pins.
Thinkpad E480/E485/E490 are the laptops you are referring too. I can confirm they are a pig to replace. 5 gnd legs, 2 rows of through-hole pins and 1x row of smd pins.
@@dfear Actually, E590, but it is the same dreadful connector as in those models you have mentioned. And the worse part is that Lenovo did a very poor job, because those ports are not properly secured with a screwed bracket. So when they break you get bits of through-hole pins broken inside the holes. USB-C is a very small connector and therefore, won't handle abuse as good as larger USB-A connectors, plus due to the fact that it is reversible, more pins are required, more points of failure.
Give me the link to buy same connectors
Hello, I have a problem on my laptop. The usb-c port on my laptop no longer works even though the port looks fine. Can it be repaired?
One data line's diode ( ED3418) seems to be off. The usb port won't work for data... (what you haven't tested...)
The PD line is not on the data lines and doesn't have diodes.
Too bad you think a usb-c port is only for charging.
Waiting for the video for the "come back" job.
Hi Sorin. In your links you mention 'low melt solder'. I think it is a good idea not to overheat things, so I ordered some. (It is not cheap.) I tested it and noticed that it melts at a not significantly lower melting point than my traditional 60/40 solder I use. Do you have a feeling that it makes a big difference in the melting point? I can adjust the temperature of my soldering station, but until now I don't see any advantage.
Edit: I just compared with my soldering station on 230 C. My 'normal' 60/40 solder melts, the so called 'low melt solder' doesn't...
Not sure what he is using, I have used "chipquick" and it melts at 137 C. I also tried the same in syringe , and it does work, but not as well as the chipquick wire.
Also, it could be that you are trying to melt the lowtemp solder, which is wrong. You should try melting a mix of the regular and low melt solder. It is only when mixed (roughly 50/50) with regular solder, the resulting alloy melts at low temp. It is designed to be added to existing solder joint to create the low melt allow.
I did not understand why Sorin uses Low temp solder to attach a usb port. Thing is, the low temp solder is very brittle and is the last thing you would want to use where a physical force is present, - like the USB port, any port. He probably knows what he is doing, hopefully, he'll touch on this.
Sorin I love your videos. I’m little confused on this video in that you said you are using low melt solder to solder a component. It’s my understanding that we remove components with low melt solder and resolder with regular leaded solder. Sorry if I misunderstood
I think it is just regular leaded solder not that low melt solder that is only intended to desolder stuff, because it is weak and brittle.
@@davidlguerr In my country using leaded solder for mass production is illegal, but using leaded solder for repairs is completely legal from law perspective. There is low melt solder, which melting temperature is even lower than typical Pb based one but I haven't used that even once. Pb based one is completely fine for mixing to desolder and repairs. From practical perspective ofc Pb based solder is way better than any nowadays RoHs counterpart and a good example will be my czechoslovakian motorcycle which has switches, rectifier and alternator terminals factory soldered back in the 80s with Pb solder and after 30+ years those joints are completely fine.
@@MrHimer12 I think in most western countries leaded solder is not allowed for manufacturing, but as you said you can purchase and use it for repairs. IMO there was no proper research for a decent replacement for leaded solder, and RoHs is the cause for many dead devices due to cracked joints. A brand new Samsung TV stopped working after 10 minutes, the issue? Cracked solder joints, which where repaired with leaded solder and it won't happen again.
It's a bad design to have the ports (especially the charging) directly soldered to the main board, I like the old ones where its on its own with pig tail wires connected so that when the connector is shaken/pressed/pulled/etc. it does not rip off from the board.
When I use a heat gun the surrounding SMD's ping off. Why is this?
on the motherboard ED3418 seems to have moved from the heating of the flux in that area. Both USB-C charger ports worked though. Any tips on how to avoid making other tiny components move out of place?
Noticed it too!
Cover it with aluminium foil, it will spread the heat. Don't use tape on those tiny parts, when you remove the tape it can rip off these small parts from the board.
I definitely prefer the second method..
yeah I hate this so much lol, those tiny capacitors right next to the port... was trying to clean the pads/remove the old solder and the wick knocked off the tiniest capacitor [this ones like idk half of the ones you have sitting there? it was smaller than a grain of salt, ridiculous]
was definitely having a terrible day, and all for nothing as it is a more in depth board level repair. really need to go through all your vids and classes lol
Second method is good for obtaining spares from donors, without melting them. You can solder it that way, but why stress the PCB even more? To make it melting you have to put more heat for longer to punch through fiberglass to finally reach melting temperature on the designated side. You can, but just why? Also what has come to my mind - Why people are leaving solder in ground pins which are through mounted and can be soldered later to secure the socket to the PCB? You are just soldering socket with additional and not required solder mass which absorbs heat along with PCB which also sucks a lot of heat. When I am soldering type C connector I prep the pads with fresh solder, leave ground pins clear, and I prep socket pins and I solder datalines/powerlines first, then I finish with ground pins. I am not guru, master or smh. I have been daily soldering for past 22 years and I also can be wrong but when I am watching contents like this I always wonder, why you people just make job for yourselves harder...
Bro which type of soldering wire are you using
There is a link in the description, but in my experience 'normal' 60/40 solder melts at a lower temperature than the solder from the link.
@@Frank55thanks 👍
hey
i hate this type of usb c specialy the samsung never stay in place at once
Desolder the 4 mounting pads and remove that solder completely: replace the port and weld only the pins with much less heat and than solder the 4 casing pins with just a normal solder iron? Less change to affect the internals of the new usb c port. What do you think?
I agree, that would be the best way.
Definitely doesn't react like any known low melt solder 138c melting point, second I would not use low melt for permanent repairs it doesn't have strength too last, solder from top high chance of melting plastic inside usb port, I'd say good video what NOT to do.
It is just regular leaded solder, I am sure, and you can see by the look of it. It is shiny, and real low melt solder is dull.
@@davidlguerr yeah saw it straight away
Is an USB-C port more prone to melting than an IC?
@@Drottninggatan2017 no plastic in most integrated circuits, plastic is inside usb c or any usb port for that matter its part of internal and external moulding
@@Drottninggatan2017 Most ICs are not affected by heat like a USB port is. USB-C or any other USB ports have plastic inside, which is in contact with metal, so if the port's housing gets too hot, it will melt the plastic inside. So the safe way to solder any kind of connector having plastics, is by indirect hot air whenever possible. Some manufacturers do help, by leaving a clear space on the other side of the board. In some cases on the other side you have plastic connectors which will force you to apply direct heat.
third :P
you never wicked or anything else you just slapped back there .....lazy way lol
So you order parts and even use gloves. But then you solder using low melt? Are you fishing for comments? :D
He meant to say leaded solder, which has lower melting point than unleaded.