Tapered roller bearings are great for high loads and RPM under 2000, Go much over 2000 RPM for any Length of time and they will overheat. Conversely ball bearings are better for lighter loads and high RPM applications.
Hey great job just 1 comment because all bearing parts are press fit into their counterparts you will not be able to adjust your bearing preload. I would have removed the press fit on the upper bearing (the one with the bearings not the race) on the lathe by lightly sanding the upper part of the shaft where the bearing usualy sits this would allow you to do a bearing preload.
@michaelmeyer6603 im not sure but i did it to mine and its quite a change. Exactly what i did is as folows. I removed the pressfit on the outer cage of the bottom bearing by mounting the mill head on my lathe and lightly sanding making sure to 1 not remove so much material you want a tight slipfit 2 making sure to keep everything parallel. Then i removed the pressfit off the top spindle shaft again in the lathe making the top bearing inner race slip fitting. I then press fit the lower bearing onto the spindle by pusing it using its inner race and pressfit the upper bearing into the top of the mill head by pusning on the outer race (don't push bearings in by the non contacting reace) then inserted the spindle into the head with just a hand push and adjusted the pre-load.
of note though, if the races were cooled (as you did) the removing them would become a machining job in and of it's own. But all in all, nice job Max. I am currently awaiting the arrival of a new (Steel) hi-low gear from LMS to replace the goobered up nylon gear that came installed in my mill. All other gears were already up graded save the secondary or shaft gear for the motor drive. retaining a plastic/nylon gear in this location may prevent further gear damage in the future and this gear is a 5 minute fix at worst, providing there is a spare on hand.
Getting the outer races out sometime in the future may be a problem… A common motorcycle upgrade was to swap-out the original cup and cone crowded-ball steering head bearings for taper rollers. Removing the old style bearings was easy enough as there was wide seat to tap against with a long screwdriver or suitable lump of metal. If taper rollers were installed the bearing seat was only slightly bigger than the machined register it bore against within the steering head, leaving only a tiny edge to tap against if ever the bearings needed changing. A somewhat extreme (but effective) technique I’ve used is to run a bead of weld directly onto the conical surface of the bearing, then… when the weld cools it shrinks the race slightly and it either makes the bearing easier to tap out or (if you’re very lucky) the race may just fall out. As I say extreme but effective…
How do you know when it is time to change the bearings? My x2 mini mill Just started a high pitch sound when turning, then it stops and then comes back after awhile of spinning. Is this due to the bearings needing to be changed?
Nice work. I'm considering doing this to my mill too. What about stiffing up the vertical guide? It is really not very stiff and can easily deflect with pressure. This causes uneven surface cuts and chatter.
Just pin it with something. You don't need all that crap. People over do these because they're weird, don't put another thousand into this machine when you could have bought a nice cnc mill that will cut stainless right out of the box for 1500.
@@Uniquelymade Exactly, what might be a huge waste for one person is completely worth it and fantastic upgrades for another. Also, many people, especially the ones with the big 800-2000 kg cast iron behemoth milling machines don't seem to understand that yes for €1000 extra you can have a machine that is 5-10x better, but it also requires a portable crane and a poured concrete floor along with 3 fase 380V to run, and of course a lot more space. For a lot of hobbyists a small mini mill or lathe mounted of a desk or wooden bench is all they can afford space wise, and in those cases trying to get the most out of their small hobby machines is a very understandable and legitimate pursuit.
I did try pressing a small bit before and honestly I don't think it made the biggest difference. I still needed a decent amount of force. But with the lack of precision these parts are machined I think every bit helps (if you have a real press it probably doesn't matter)
Cooling bearing rings (often called ‘races’ or ‘raceways’) is a valid and effective way of temporarily reducing the interference fit. We do it all the time at work in overhauling rail vehicle transmissions. Heating the housing as well (if practical) also helps. If you want to delve into the mechanical science, try to find the coefficient of thermal expansion/contraction for the bearing steel and (if required) the iron housing and simply calculate the contraction/expansion of the component diameters based on the temperature difference. Incidentally heating the inner bearing ring/roller assembly also works when installing on an (optionally) cooled shaft. Companies like SKF recommend an induction heater for exactly this purpose and also specify a maximum allowable temperature so the bearing is not unintentionally heat treated…
Good, I did the same to my mini lathe but I sanded the top of spindle so bearing slides a little so you get right preload and then set. This works just like spindle brgs on front wheels on a car, older style. Jesus Saves
I added a belt drive which works great, also added a large 1/2(13mm) plate to back of column to be able to really tighten the back nut' and added a bracket to each side to adjust mill tram, there are videos on it or websites, it really stiffens the mill
@@davidaarons2488well good for you and the other half of the mini mill owners who've done that. Really you don't need to so this though. All i did was ad grade 12.9 bolts where the column meets the base, amd cranked the tilt nut with a cheeter bar. Absolutely zero flex. Also these tapered roller bearings dont spin free enough to give you efficient machining. If you install ceramic angular contact bearings with a belt and brushless motor your machine would be silent and youll also be able to gain speeds higher then 2500rpm.
Don't take this guys advice, if you're going to upgraded your spindle use 7007ac angular contact and 7206 angular contact. Both with the same contact angel. I can say this guys always adjusting or messing with this setup because the preload is wrong, you know when thry heat up they get tighter. Ac bearings can go to 20krpm
Развлечения
Great Video. I like also that you admit some errors. That makes the channel more real. Best regards from Florence, Italy
Thank you very much Roby
Tapered roller bearings are great for high loads and RPM under 2000, Go much over 2000 RPM for any Length of time and they will overheat. Conversely ball bearings are better for lighter loads and high RPM applications.
well the max rpm is 2500 and I rarely machine long at those speeds.
But it is a valid comment, thank you very much
Hey great job just 1 comment because all bearing parts are press fit into their counterparts you will not be able to adjust your bearing preload. I would have removed the press fit on the upper bearing (the one with the bearings not the race) on the lathe by lightly sanding the upper part of the shaft where the bearing usualy sits this would allow you to do a bearing preload.
What forum did you read that from? Seems like I've read that in a couple different places.
@michaelmeyer6603 im not sure but i did it to mine and its quite a change.
Exactly what i did is as folows.
I removed the pressfit on the outer cage of the bottom bearing by mounting the mill head on my lathe and lightly sanding making sure to 1 not remove so much material you want a tight slipfit 2 making sure to keep everything parallel. Then i removed the pressfit off the top spindle shaft again in the lathe making the top bearing inner race slip fitting. I then press fit the lower bearing onto the spindle by pusing it using its inner race and pressfit the upper bearing into the top of the mill head by pusning on the outer race (don't push bearings in by the non contacting reace) then inserted the spindle into the head with just a hand push and adjusted the pre-load.
of note though, if the races were cooled (as you did) the removing them would become a machining job in and of it's own.
But all in all, nice job Max. I am currently awaiting the arrival of a new (Steel) hi-low gear from LMS to replace the goobered up nylon gear that came installed in my mill. All other gears were already up graded save the secondary or shaft gear for the motor drive. retaining a plastic/nylon gear in this location may prevent further gear damage in the future and this gear is a 5 minute fix at worst, providing there is a spare on hand.
Getting the outer races out sometime in the future may be a problem… A common motorcycle upgrade was to swap-out the original cup and cone crowded-ball steering head bearings for taper rollers. Removing the old style bearings was easy enough as there was wide seat to tap against with a long screwdriver or suitable lump of metal. If taper rollers were installed the bearing seat was only slightly bigger than the machined register it bore against within the steering head, leaving only a tiny edge to tap against if ever the bearings needed changing.
A somewhat extreme (but effective) technique I’ve used is to run a bead of weld directly onto the conical surface of the bearing, then… when the weld cools it shrinks the race slightly and it either makes the bearing easier to tap out or (if you’re very lucky) the race may just fall out. As I say extreme but effective…
How do you know when it is time to change the bearings? My x2 mini mill Just started a high pitch sound when turning, then it stops and then comes back after awhile of spinning. Is this due to the bearings needing to be changed?
Nice work. I'm considering doing this to my mill too. What about stiffing up the vertical guide? It is really not very stiff and can easily deflect with pressure. This causes uneven surface cuts and chatter.
That Is actually a great idea. The movable column makes more trouble then it's useful
Just pin it with something. You don't need all that crap. People over do these because they're weird, don't put another thousand into this machine when you could have bought a nice cnc mill that will cut stainless right out of the box for 1500.
I think the point of those machines are to kind of figure out where the importance is for you so you can make educated choices when you upgrade
@@Uniquelymade Exactly, what might be a huge waste for one person is completely worth it and fantastic upgrades for another. Also, many people, especially the ones with the big 800-2000 kg cast iron behemoth milling machines don't seem to understand that yes for €1000 extra you can have a machine that is 5-10x better, but it also requires a portable crane and a poured concrete floor along with 3 fase 380V to run, and of course a lot more space. For a lot of hobbyists a small mini mill or lathe mounted of a desk or wooden bench is all they can afford space wise, and in those cases trying to get the most out of their small hobby machines is a very understandable and legitimate pursuit.
3:30 did you try without cooling the bearings? (Just curious how much it really helped.)
I did try pressing a small bit before and honestly I don't think it made the biggest difference. I still needed a decent amount of force.
But with the lack of precision these parts are machined I think every bit helps (if you have a real press it probably doesn't matter)
Cooling bearing rings (often called ‘races’ or ‘raceways’) is a valid and effective way of temporarily reducing the interference fit. We do it all the time at work in overhauling rail vehicle transmissions. Heating the housing as well (if practical) also helps. If you want to delve into the mechanical science, try to find the coefficient of thermal expansion/contraction for the bearing steel and (if required) the iron housing and simply calculate the contraction/expansion of the component diameters based on the temperature difference. Incidentally heating the inner bearing ring/roller assembly also works when installing on an (optionally) cooled shaft. Companies like SKF recommend an induction heater for exactly this purpose and also specify a maximum allowable temperature so the bearing is not unintentionally heat treated…
Good, I did the same to my mini lathe but I sanded the top of spindle so bearing slides a little so you get right preload and then set. This works just like spindle brgs on front wheels on a car, older style. Jesus Saves
I added a belt drive which works great, also added a large 1/2(13mm) plate to back of column to be able to really tighten the back nut' and added a bracket to each side to adjust mill tram, there are videos on it or websites, it really stiffens the mill
@@davidaarons2488well good for you and the other half of the mini mill owners who've done that. Really you don't need to so this though. All i did was ad grade 12.9 bolts where the column meets the base, amd cranked the tilt nut with a cheeter bar. Absolutely zero flex. Also these tapered roller bearings dont spin free enough to give you efficient machining. If you install ceramic angular contact bearings with a belt and brushless motor your machine would be silent and youll also be able to gain speeds higher then 2500rpm.
is the motor sufficient ? I found that 350 Watts are not that great, is their any upgraded brush-less motor available ?
there are brushless upgrades but i have no experience with them
id rather have the clap.
Don't take this guys advice, if you're going to upgraded your spindle use 7007ac angular contact and 7206 angular contact. Both with the same contact angel. I can say this guys always adjusting or messing with this setup because the preload is wrong, you know when thry heat up they get tighter. Ac bearings can go to 20krpm
These are Thrust bearings. 😶
No
Angular Contact roller bearings.
@@Mikesmeyer88 are better... but these they are not. taper roller.