I just watched all 3 videos in a row after finding your website. I've been wanting to sound deaden my car for years, but properly, and nobody seemed to know what they were doing. I can't afford your products (useless canadian dollar) but I can't believe I just learned all this for free. My 2003 suzuki is just bare metal in many spots, and combined with your average 20-year-old-car shuddering and rattling noises, I've resorted to wearing earplugs while I drive. Knowledge in hand, I'm excited to drive my car again!
What an underrated video. Hoping you have a really good watch/purchase ratio based on how impressive these tips are! Can't believe how many of these I'm guilty of! I definitely committed the "little strips between screw holes" sin...and open-cell rings that are too far from the door.
Nick, the airgap and the blown speaker aspect. It really sounds like that, and the phisics behind it, is the acoustic cancellation. Even on tiny leaks can have a negative effect on low ends. With the speaker to panel coupling.. i have the feeling, this should be really done precisely. In case to much we can touch the speaker , put back to original door skin. Sometimes i use a little drill to remove from the original plastic ring to mount the ccf around the speaker to a flat surface. Also it has pros and cons. In this case we create an acoustic chamber in the front of the speaker. Which means we should take care of the dsp tuning and measurement after all, cause it can effect + and - way the 6.5" 's performance on mid region. Th tunnel that you mentioned. Absolutely, closer the better. My 5 cents. Great video Nick!! Thank you!
What might make for a good video is you sussing out rattles and unwanted vibrations. What your process is, how you deal with certain kinds. Mechanical door latch cables got me recently. They resonated with the midbass in the doors and were terrible. I'd especially be interested to see how you track down rattles in like the dash. Those are always tricky.
Nice videos. If only this video was out before i started working on my car. There is so many videos out there only applying the first 3mm material and I did too, even on the middle part to replace the plastic covers. So now I have to bring out a knife and cut new holes and apply some 8mm sounds deadening to the outer skin too. But I wounder if I also should apply some 25mm deadening on the middle skin behind cables and stuff or that's maybe overkill.
Heads up, these materials all have different names and different purposes. Saying "Xmm sound deadening" tells nothing about what you are actually using.
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions Ok a fairly more detailed list of my now used products: On the outer skin I now have Silent Coat Vibrodamping 2mm. The middle skin also has some sheets of 2mm vibrodamping 2mm to cover all holes. The inner skin has Silent Coat Vibrodamping 2mm and Sound Absorber 15mm So now I guess I have to put some more stuff on the outer liner, I was thinking maybe some 8mm of STP Splen from standardplast.😅
@@jacksondavid8758 the white material is our old version of ResoNix Fiber Mat. Our new version is black and yes, it is used in this capacity. That didn't come from the factory.
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions thanks... I was just coming back to this vid to say I went backwards and just started watching part 1... Thanks for the quick response!
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions Thanks for the response. I definitely need to head to the website and do some reading up on this material. I have an install coming up and I would like to do something different then just plastering sticky sound deadener all over the place.
@@isaidme0 the website has a ton of info. Take a look at the resources section, and the blog section. Plenty of info in both areas of the site on various topics.
My 1998 firebird has a massive hole on the inner door skin and you suggested a blockoff plate made of ABS. I can see if my friend with a 3D printer can help, but... my inner door skin is made of very thin fiberglass. Are rivnuts safe to use on it or will I just break the fiberglass? A little afraid of that.
I never needed to add a blocking plate to my 99. I think it's mainly the door panel itself that acts like a blocking plate. You might consider covering the door panel with the CLD material.
The actual doors are made of FRC which is fiber reinforced composite. I would not use rivnuts on that. They are really meant for metal. There's a number of other ways you could attach a block off panel though. You could drill small holes around the perimeter of the opening and use a rubberized glue like E6000 or an epoxy and attach either a sheet metal tab or a threaded nut to the back side of the panel and then run your screw or bolt through the front. That's what I would do, assuming I felt that it was necessary.
How do you confirm that the outer CCF layer attached to the front of the speaker is uniformly touching the door plastic speaker grill? This has actually been a question of mine for some time now...the issue being you cant visually see the CCF coupler because the door inner panel is installed so the speaker is hidden...Ive tried measuring the depth of the inner panel from door clips to speaker grill, then comparing that to the depth of the speakers mounting bolts to CCF coupling layer, to make sure the numbers align with eachother, but is there a way to visually confirm this?
Another method is to make the grills removable and use small Neo magnets to reattach it. This is a lot more work, but if you have really expensive drivers it might be worth the trouble just to verify that the surrounds are not rubbing on anything.
I'm planning on hiring you to remote tune; how do you feel about me using a Dirac live dsp? Do I need anything other than laptop, dsp, and calibrated mic?
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions crap... I kinda wanted to learn Dirac since I don't really want to invest the time to get on the level of you guys... is it something you think I could learn on my own with enough effort, or should I go another route on lean on you?
Yo when you burn others for failed installation techniques i know exactly who your talking about. I wonder if those companies watch your videos and feel ashamed they sell snake oil!? Hahaha good video series 👌🏽
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Another awesome video.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us.
About to order and actually get the doors done the right way.
I got your sample pack and was wondering what that heavy thing was. Now I know it’s the barrier. Glad I watched this one again.
I just watched all 3 videos in a row after finding your website. I've been wanting to sound deaden my car for years, but properly, and nobody seemed to know what they were doing. I can't afford your products (useless canadian dollar) but I can't believe I just learned all this for free. My 2003 suzuki is just bare metal in many spots, and combined with your average 20-year-old-car shuddering and rattling noises, I've resorted to wearing earplugs while I drive. Knowledge in hand, I'm excited to drive my car again!
excellent series Nick. really well put together. thanks for taking the time.
This is like Listening to Bob Ross videos for car audio ❤
lol
Happy little cones.
What an underrated video. Hoping you have a really good watch/purchase ratio based on how impressive these tips are! Can't believe how many of these I'm guilty of! I definitely committed the "little strips between screw holes" sin...and open-cell rings that are too far from the door.
Thank you for this in depth series, I feel way more confident on applying what material goes where and not wasting time.
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
Nick, the airgap and the blown speaker aspect. It really sounds like that, and the phisics behind it, is the acoustic cancellation. Even on tiny leaks can have a negative effect on low ends.
With the speaker to panel coupling.. i have the feeling, this should be really done precisely. In case to much we can touch the speaker , put back to original door skin. Sometimes i use a little drill to remove from the original plastic ring to mount the ccf around the speaker to a flat surface.
Also it has pros and cons. In this case we create an acoustic chamber in the front of the speaker. Which means we should take care of the dsp tuning and measurement after all, cause it can effect + and - way the 6.5" 's performance on mid region. Th tunnel that you mentioned. Absolutely, closer the better.
My 5 cents.
Great video Nick!!
Thank you!
It is not from cancelation. It is the sound of air rushing in and out. Sort of like a vented enclosure with too high of a port velocity
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions understood, good example!
Thanks for all the info. A knock knock comparison between the 2 doors uno finished and the other original would have been fun. =)
@@kambostewart8056 fun, but misleading and pointless :)
Nice explanation Nick
What might make for a good video is you sussing out rattles and unwanted vibrations. What your process is, how you deal with certain kinds.
Mechanical door latch cables got me recently. They resonated with the midbass in the doors and were terrible.
I'd especially be interested to see how you track down rattles in like the dash. Those are always tricky.
Maybe. I'll be doing some treatment in my own car soon.
What rivnut tool/kit do you use and recommend to those looking to install block off plates?
Nice videos. If only this video was out before i started working on my car. There is so many videos out there only applying the first 3mm material and I did too, even on the middle part to replace the plastic covers. So now I have to bring out a knife and cut new holes and apply some 8mm sounds deadening to the outer skin too. But I wounder if I also should apply some 25mm deadening on the middle skin behind cables and stuff or that's maybe overkill.
Heads up, these materials all have different names and different purposes. Saying "Xmm sound deadening" tells nothing about what you are actually using.
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions Ok a fairly more detailed list of my now used products:
On the outer skin I now have Silent Coat Vibrodamping 2mm.
The middle skin also has some sheets of 2mm vibrodamping 2mm to cover all holes.
The inner skin has Silent Coat Vibrodamping 2mm and Sound Absorber 15mm
So now I guess I have to put some more stuff on the outer liner, I was thinking maybe some 8mm of STP Splen from standardplast.😅
Did you add the white compressive matting inside the door card on this on, or was that Volvo factory? You have a similar product correct?
@@jacksondavid8758 the white material is our old version of ResoNix Fiber Mat. Our new version is black and yes, it is used in this capacity. That didn't come from the factory.
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions thanks... I was just coming back to this vid to say I went backwards and just started watching part 1... Thanks for the quick response!
What do you use to mount the resonix barrier product to the door?
Typically machine screws with fender washers to riv-nuts
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions Thanks for the response. I definitely need to head to the website and do some reading up on this material. I have an install coming up and I would like to do something different then just plastering sticky sound deadener all over the place.
@@isaidme0 the website has a ton of info. Take a look at the resources section, and the blog section. Plenty of info in both areas of the site on various topics.
Goddamn these are great videos
Nick you mentioned using HDPE on occasion. Is there an epoxy or some effective way to bond layers of this together?
Poly-weld adhesive most likely. But I haven't used it or done this.
So did that baffle come with the midbass speaker or did you make it or buy it separately?
I make them.
He said that it was laser cut out of four 1/4 inch thick pieces of acrylic plastic and then stacked and glued together.
Is it possible to just lay materials over carpet without removing anything? Will it have any effect?
I can't think of a single situation where I'd recommend this. This especially won't work at all with a CLD product. The others, it can, but why?
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions What about MLV?
@@zelowatch30 I just can't imagine why anyone would do that
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions Because putting everything back is a pain if removing wasn't bad enough.
My 1998 firebird has a massive hole on the inner door skin and you suggested a blockoff plate made of ABS. I can see if my friend with a 3D printer can help, but... my inner door skin is made of very thin fiberglass. Are rivnuts safe to use on it or will I just break the fiberglass? A little afraid of that.
I never needed to add a blocking plate to my 99. I think it's mainly the door panel itself that acts like a blocking plate. You might consider covering the door panel with the CLD material.
The actual doors are made of FRC which is fiber reinforced composite. I would not use rivnuts on that. They are really meant for metal. There's a number of other ways you could attach a block off panel though. You could drill small holes around the perimeter of the opening and use a rubberized glue like E6000 or an epoxy and attach either a sheet metal tab or a threaded nut to the back side of the panel and then run your screw or bolt through the front. That's what I would do, assuming I felt that it was necessary.
How do you confirm that the outer CCF layer attached to the front of the speaker is uniformly touching the door plastic speaker grill? This has actually been a question of mine for some time now...the issue being you cant visually see the CCF coupler because the door inner panel is installed so the speaker is hidden...Ive tried measuring the depth of the inner panel from door clips to speaker grill, then comparing that to the depth of the speakers mounting bolts to CCF coupling layer, to make sure the numbers align with eachother, but is there a way to visually confirm this?
You can measure via depths, etc. Or you can poke through the grille with something very thin to "feel" if it is making contact all the way around.
Another method is to make the grills removable and use small Neo magnets to reattach it. This is a lot more work, but if you have really expensive drivers it might be worth the trouble just to verify that the surrounds are not rubbing on anything.
I'm planning on hiring you to remote tune; how do you feel about me using a Dirac live dsp? Do I need anything other than laptop, dsp, and calibrated mic?
I'd prefer to use a non-dirac since I cannot predict what Dirac is really doing remotely.
@@ResoNixSoundSolutions crap... I kinda wanted to learn Dirac since I don't really want to invest the time to get on the level of you guys... is it something you think I could learn on my own with enough effort, or should I go another route on lean on you?
@@noncog1 I'm not sure. Dirac is not something I use. That would be up to you to determine.
Thank you so much for taking your time and share your experience and knowledge. I appreciate it.
Yo when you burn others for failed installation techniques i know exactly who your talking about. I wonder if those companies watch your videos and feel ashamed they sell snake oil!? Hahaha good video series 👌🏽
@@PunisherOfDeath101 who am I talking about?
Over 30 minutes to install a speaker? Not long enough.