Finally after trying to understand the basics of ( crank no start) And how to go about it I finally understand!! Brain your way of explaining is unreal!! I've always been in special ed classes through all of elementary, middle school, and high school. It seriously takes a gifted teacher to bring understanding to a mind like mine. My heart is filled with gratitude for your easy to understand video. Your my hero!!
That may have been the most simple, yet complete, way of explaining a super quick and easy troubleshooting pathway for the novice mechanic. Your videos are awesome Brian. Keep it up!!
Changed the battery on my motorcycle that has been sitting for 3 years and used the starting fluid trick because of this video and started for a couple of seconds. Gives the motivation to keep going....
nice work! Thorough, concise & easy to follow along.....you killed it man. Thank you for the informative lesson on the "CRANK, NO START" diagnosis checklist!!!
Thank you for this man. I did this exact thing when I diagnosed my truck the other day. 97f150 with a 4.6 manual. Cylinder one had 156psi. Cylinder two had 48psi LOL. Pretty sure it blew the plug threads out of it. Initial concern was misfiring on cylinder 3. Replaced plugs and wires. Next day misfiring on 4&6. Threw new coil packs at it. No change. Had replaced an injector that was cracked. I'm done throwing time and money at it. Looking for a 5.4 to swap in
I like "A FAST Corrected Error" or AFASTCE for newer vehicles. First verify the complaint (try to start it) and look at the dash lights. Manufacturer's Anti-theft systems will often give a light on the dash when they have disabled the vehicle (when they think they are doing their job...not in all failures of the system) In a no light situation move on to FAS (Fuel/Air and Spark). Those belong together because a common failure will take out both fuel and spark which could bring you back to Anti-theft again, or could simply be 1 blown fuse. Next is Compression, then Exhaust. Even if you don't see signs of exhaust, compression will still need checked. It's often faster on small engines (1 or 2 cylinders) to find a camshaft not turning by checking compression. You will see compression with a blocked exhaust though....it might even be crazy high for the engine. A broken timing belt/chain/gear could easily lead you down the path of blaming exhaust when the exhaust is fine.
People dun give U enough credit for making these vids very user friendly Imo , your way of explaining things speaks volumes for those who dun have alot of experience ty :)
This is so informative I can’t even thank you enough 🙈 I was getting really frustrated with my bike but now that things cleared up, I know it’s probably a fuel problem I’m having.
I'm used to watch Eric the car guy and scanner danner ,real fix real fast i have never seen you before but now I know nice to meat you, keep up the good work
With my quad I have a new battery new starter relay it turns but won’t fire have good spark I poured a little gas in the cylinder head it and it’ll burn that up then quit puff off smoke it’s like it’s not getting fuel I’ll do the exhaust test a bit of history it was running fine and then it just bogged out and died it’s a 2013 grizzly 700 all fuzes are good I don’t want to take it to the shop just wish I could figure it out but this video has given me a lot of ideas especially where to start great vid cheers
Crank no start is so much easier to diagnose than no crank. No crank could be bad battery, bad crankshaft position sensor, bad neutral safety switch, any plethora of electrical system interconnected. At least if you can roll the motor over you can check for gas, air, compression, backpressure, etc relatively quickly. No crank (in my experience) takes a lot more Googling and a lot more taking apart electrical connections and checking for faulty electrical parts, plus you need to find out the values for things. The normal resistance of a CPS sensor might be 60-80 ohms (not a real value, just stating a range for shits and giggles), so you really have to look it up.
Great course. Maybe I can figure out the ongoing issues with my 96 Ford F150 8cyl. A lot more going on with sensors and stuff though. Not like the 60's for sure. Or the 50's for that matter.
+wysetech2000 You're right. You got me doubting because I remember getting a little puff off that hole. I had to go double check it. It's pumping up and down like a little humming bird wing. I had Mrs. briansmobile1 do the key wile I looked down the hole w. a flashlight. It's moving.
Great video! I have a similar issue but no piston damage. I recently got a smoking deal on a Honda foreman and it needed a new top end. So I printed the manual and got it done. Now I have it all back together and it cranks but doesn’t start. I have spark, I have fuel and air but nothing! It turns over and over. I’ve never done any type of mechanics before and this is my first build. Am I missing something? This timing issue you talked about, was I suppose to put the piston in a certain position when I put it back together? I have no clue. Can you help me out.
*Brian i think you can run a entire utube channel just on crank no start series....loved this video..fantastic job.......................................{ FISS-ATE-BB-C-FAS } Fuel,,, Inertia switch ,,, spark,,, suck,,,-,,,Air,,, timing,, ,exhaust,,,-Bang,,,Blow,,,Comparison,,,-,,,fusible link,,,anti theft,, ,squeeze*
Good video. i had a huge back fire on a 73 ford 400 c.i.d., would you expect that there would be starting issues due to the exhaust condition? is it possible? thank you.
Great video! Do you have any experience with changing the camshaft sensors on a Hyundai 2007 Santa Fe 2.7L? I have a crank / no start issue w/ zero rpm indication. I cannot remove the Bank 1 camshaft sensor (seems the engineers at Hyundai designed the water lines that go to the cooling assembly to encroach on ).
How do you have good compression With bad valves and I can that's off it's got great compression but it won't start We took off the head and the bounce we're bent...
Any idea about solving (cranking no start) on 2004 Volvo S80, replaced fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor and plugs but still not starting, no spark either, all the fuses are ok,
Hi Brian! This video is a great help with one of my cars BUT I seem to have everything here but it doesn't idle for more than a second. Is there any way to test a fuel pressure regulator without the car running? The car is a 91 Miata, and I have good fuel pressure from a new fuel pump.
+Striball That's a different problem than Crank-no-start or a cylinder misfire (which FASTEC also works on). That's an issue with fuel management or air fuel metering most likely. I automatically jump to MAF failure, (without codes) vacuum leaks and wire harness issues based on my experience, but a good strategy would be hooking it up to an advanced computer and watching the numbers to see if you have a glitch, an unreasonable number for temperature, or a fuel trim that is outside the norm.
if there is 1 thing i learned in the trade is that overall noise for compression assumption can be overlook for anybody with low diagnostic skill. if 1 full bank is at fault it will still sound about right and/or right. having 1 out of 6 cylinder will definitly sound uneven. i got and old stratus that had 1 coil out of 2 firing as the timing was off 2 teeth. i got screwed as i didn't previously check both coil for spark and assume he flooded it at a -30c morning. when the real reason was a fail timing pulley. =)
+Kevin Gosselin Great comment. It's experiences similar to this that take a kick butt prideful mechanic and humble him/her toward being an excellent technician.
+kenskip1 No need for that, Squirting oil in the cylinder is just to get an idea if a low compression reading is caused by bad rings or bad valves, if it's rings the compression comes up, if its valves it will not change much, the mechanical damage from the bore-scope video and the ZERO reading he got from the one cylinder is enough diagnosis to know that the engine has a mechanical failure and will need to be torn down, no need to spend any more time or make a mess with oil.
i got my 91 buick shut off then wont start. then when i got it to start it ran fine and normal shut it off then it wont start again. or sometimes it will die on it owns.
Hey Brian, good timing (pun), my skoda fabia didn't really want to start this afternoon? it cranked as always, and was spluttering. have you worked on these vehicles, il have to wait till next weekend tho to check spark plug.
I have a gx670 honda which a new carburetor was put on and ran then once warmed up it would start then later once cold it started then wouldn't do anything. Any suggestions please
Hey Brian, what type of street bike do you have? Saw the front end of it and your helmet in the video. I've got a 97 Honda ST1100 w 80K miles. I just replaced the timing belt on it, kind of a pain had to pull all the "tupperware", front wheel, and radiator to get to it. Glad thats done.
so i have an atv. i got it running after cleaning the carb and all that, but the exhaust is broken right at the engine block. it was running a couple days ago then it died. there is quiet a bit of gunk right by the exhaust on the engine block. could that be a factor to it not starting? it would crank but not start, and i just burned out a solinoid trying to start it again. but what’s your thoughts i would love help!!!
I'm curious, why is it you see on most car restoration shows on cars that haven't been running in a while they're spraying starting fluid in the intake?
Some one can help me with my raptor660 2005 I just changed the piston, the rings and the seal valves exhausted the clutch but when I finished the engine is running but very hard
Good video. Will be interesting to find out what happened. You can't just fix the engine, you have to know what caused the problem, first. Then you have to tell us, so we will shut up!! Hehehe P.S. Have you ordered a microphone yet. That camera mic is just awful!
+Devo looked like detonation. the fuel is not supposed to explode, it's supposed to be a controlled burn, if it does explode it's called detonation, which usually takes out the ring lands. detonation can be caused by improper timing, and or improper air/fuel mix.
Detonation often seen when fuel mix is excessively lean, such a lean mix will cause overheat, it's very common on performance recreational vehicles to have holes burned through the pistons because the operator was running too lean. however, it's hard to say on this machine as I have not seen myself
+Dick Fageroni to me it looked like the same scoot that was in the vidio about gas in the oil, that four wheeler had a carbeurator, he even showed rebuilding it.ring lands just don't break for no reason, clearly this scoot has more than a few issues. the only other possibility for broken ring lands is if the engine had been rebuilt with improperly gapped rings.
+Dick Fageroni fuel exploding under the ring might be physically possible, but externally improbable as the fuel would most likely be diluted with engine oil, severely reducing its volatility, and a leaking injector would cause a rich burn, cooling the engine. and the overheat is odd as the cylinders didn't show significant scoring, granted the vidio of the the bore-scope let a lot to be desired. perhaps it overheated just enough to melt the e.f.I. brain or the oxygen sensor, causing a lean mix? idk, need more info
My car engine has good compression and has spark but starting fluid won't start it cold.... But if I bump start the car it runs perfectly fine until the engine cools off smell a little bit of gas but nothing overpowering... Toyota 22R with a webber 32/36 carb if anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated
+turbobuick33 It's an amazon find. Here's a link→ www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4L5N4A/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00N4L5N4A&linkCode=as2&tag=httpwwwyou00f-20&linkId=T7MDW2WH7KRAW72D
Mine is clicking. Have a new battery, new alternator, new spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter, new mass air flow system and everything. But yet it still clicks when I start it. All my relays are good and fuses, but it’s like I’m getting no power to my starter. Could this be a starter issue, coil issue or switch issue? Can anyone help
ive been looking for a video like this for a while. a problem im having is i have a 2002 gmc Yukon xl and when the fuel level is at 1/4 or less my car may or may not start on a level surface it just cranks but the minute i add gas to get it above 1/4 it starts and runs fine i hear the fuel pump run every time. any ideas anybody?
+Mickey Ball The first thing I would check there is the fuel pressure when it's below 1/4 tank. Next from there would be the sending unit. Was it installed properly to the bottom of the tank? Is it dark tan or brown instead of something that could be described as cream? Is the strainer intact and the right color?
A prayer for peace. Father God, I often find myself overwhelmed by circumstances that are beyond my control, and I am easily distracted by things that don’t matter. Please forgive me for not consistently placing my trust in You. Even when I am faced with intense situations, You are still with me. You are the Creator of peace, and I can have access to Your peace-filled presence whenever I draw near to You. So instead of silencing Your Holy Spirit when I start to feel anxious or discouraged, help me to make room in my heart and mind to experience the peace You freely give. In Jesus’ name, Amen.
FASTEC is a bit dated. for me it should be FAS"A"TEC - "A' for anti theft/remote start/immobilizer, the amount of vehicle coming to the shop with no start because of that system is pretty huge
+MeowJW You might enjoy watching this Formula 1 car video. ruclips.net/video/QFy0ezTOLZs/видео.html This video is integral to understanding how/why things have changed over the years with fuel injection and turbos in Europe (they led the way no doubt) and the trade-off's and risks associated with complexity and increased moving part count.
+Jesse Crandle Wow Jesse! That's impressive! I'd love to know more about that. Also, how do turbos have less or the same moving part count than a non turbo vehicle? Assuming bearings, turbines, waste gate and linkages, etc. A non turbo vehicle has less parts, i.e. plumbing and cooling, but also less moving parts too. Both my vehicles are turbo. You know where I stand on that. I'm just encouraging a little critical thinking. I like that. ruclips.net/video/pWdd6_ZxX8c/видео.html
briansmobile1 I didn't mean a turbo has less moving parts, what I meant was the assumption that because there are more moving parts that the vehicle and it's parts will be more likely to break down or have less longevity, and that is untrue. YES, a turbo adds more parts, NO a turbo is not unreliable or means more break downs. That is what my original statement meant. There's also the fact he likes carbs, they have MANY moving parts inside of them, and yet he prefers that. Carbs require maintenance, injectors can last for 200,000 miles or more. The car only pushes about 12 psi at full boost, most people tell me that's a light pressure turbo so my statement is invalid. As far as I'm concerned they just don't want to be proven wrong, the turbo nay sayers all seem to think a turbo dies at 100,000 miles or less.
Finally after trying to understand the basics of ( crank no start) And how to go about it I finally understand!! Brain your way of explaining is unreal!! I've always been in special ed classes through all of elementary, middle school, and high school. It seriously takes a gifted teacher to bring understanding to a mind like mine. My heart is filled with gratitude for your easy to understand video. Your my hero!!
That may have been the most simple, yet complete, way of explaining a super quick and easy troubleshooting pathway for the novice mechanic. Your videos are awesome Brian. Keep it up!!
Changed the battery on my motorcycle that has been sitting for 3 years and used the starting fluid trick because of this video and started for a couple of seconds. Gives the motivation to keep going....
nice work! Thorough, concise & easy to follow along.....you killed it man. Thank you for the informative lesson on the "CRANK, NO START" diagnosis checklist!!!
Thank you for this man. I did this exact thing when I diagnosed my truck the other day. 97f150 with a 4.6 manual. Cylinder one had 156psi. Cylinder two had 48psi LOL. Pretty sure it blew the plug threads out of it.
Initial concern was misfiring on cylinder 3. Replaced plugs and wires. Next day misfiring on 4&6. Threw new coil packs at it. No change.
Had replaced an injector that was cracked. I'm done throwing time and money at it. Looking for a 5.4 to swap in
+Ernesto Lugo I know people who love that motor, but I am not one. Good luck!
I like "A FAST Corrected Error" or AFASTCE for newer vehicles. First verify the complaint (try to start it) and look at the dash lights. Manufacturer's Anti-theft systems will often give a light on the dash when they have disabled the vehicle (when they think they are doing their job...not in all failures of the system) In a no light situation move on to FAS (Fuel/Air and Spark). Those belong together because a common failure will take out both fuel and spark which could bring you back to Anti-theft again, or could simply be 1 blown fuse. Next is Compression, then Exhaust. Even if you don't see signs of exhaust, compression will still need checked. It's often faster on small engines (1 or 2 cylinders) to find a camshaft not turning by checking compression. You will see compression with a blocked exhaust though....it might even be crazy high for the engine. A broken timing belt/chain/gear could easily lead you down the path of blaming exhaust when the exhaust is fine.
People dun give U enough credit for making these vids very user friendly Imo , your way of explaining things speaks volumes for those who dun have alot of experience ty :)
That means that my truck is about to take a crap.
Thank you for your share your knowledge.
Excellent video! got my 78 corvette stuck at my job. Now I can properly understand enough of my engine to begin to diagnose the problem
This is so informative I can’t even thank you enough 🙈 I was getting really frustrated with my bike but now that things cleared up, I know it’s probably a fuel problem I’m having.
Did you figure it out what bike you have cutie
@@gibronnaqeelandries3406 I tried everything but in the end something was broken. I have an SV650
looking forward for the repair video! especially the heat related problem.
Awesome video. You broke down the whiteboard theory into practical application.
Excellent video man!FASTEC is something i use daily keep em coming!
I'm used to watch Eric the car guy and scanner danner ,real fix real fast
i have never seen you before
but now I know
nice to meat you, keep up the good work
Even tho I'm just watching this, this was very well done!!!
Very informative. Been trying to fix my grizzly 600 for ages. This gave me a better understanding of things to check next. Thanks.
With my quad I have a new battery new starter relay it turns but won’t fire have good spark I poured a little gas in the cylinder head it and it’ll burn that up then quit puff off smoke it’s like it’s not getting fuel I’ll do the exhaust test a bit of history it was running fine and then it just bogged out and died it’s a 2013 grizzly 700 all fuzes are good I don’t want to take it to the shop just wish I could figure it out but this video has given me a lot of ideas especially where to start great vid cheers
Crank no start is so much easier to diagnose than no crank. No crank could be bad battery, bad crankshaft position sensor, bad neutral safety switch, any plethora of electrical system interconnected. At least if you can roll the motor over you can check for gas, air, compression, backpressure, etc relatively quickly. No crank (in my experience) takes a lot more Googling and a lot more taking apart electrical connections and checking for faulty electrical parts, plus you need to find out the values for things. The normal resistance of a CPS sensor might be 60-80 ohms (not a real value, just stating a range for shits and giggles), so you really have to look it up.
Great course. Maybe I can figure out the ongoing issues with my 96 Ford F150 8cyl. A lot more going on with sensors and stuff though. Not like the 60's for sure. Or the 50's for that matter.
Good way of remembering thanks !
Thank you very much, great job. This needs to be taught back in our schools today, we need our Vocational back.
I like the inspection cam.
Would like a brief diesel how it works
+Mark Larsen Great idea!
beautiful troubleshooting Brian.
Your white board educational instructions are great.
Very informative video, Brian. I would have checked to see if the piston was moving on the dead cylinder.
+wysetech2000 You're right. You got me doubting because I remember getting a little puff off that hole. I had to go double check it. It's pumping up and down like a little humming bird wing. I had Mrs. briansmobile1 do the key wile I looked down the hole w. a flashlight. It's moving.
Well, at least you know the connecting rod is still in tact.
Great video, Thanks for breaking this down and easily explaining it. Makes do much sense now!
Great video! I have a similar issue but no piston damage. I recently got a smoking deal on a Honda foreman and it needed a new top end. So I printed the manual and got it done. Now I have it all back together and it cranks but doesn’t start. I have spark, I have fuel and air but nothing! It turns over and over. I’ve never done any type of mechanics before and this is my first build. Am I missing something? This timing issue you talked about, was I suppose to put the piston in a certain position when I put it back together? I have no clue. Can you help me out.
*Brian i think you can run a entire utube channel just on crank no start series....loved this video..fantastic job.......................................{ FISS-ATE-BB-C-FAS } Fuel,,, Inertia switch ,,, spark,,, suck,,,-,,,Air,,, timing,, ,exhaust,,,-Bang,,,Blow,,,Comparison,,,-,,,fusible link,,,anti theft,, ,squeeze*
Thanks Charles!
enjoyed your video cartoons etc to accent your points. i'm visual guy so it helps.
Enjoyed this. Looking forward to the post mortem video.
polaris can have issue with cam chain wheel, the sprocket at the crank end turns and first you loose good idle.
+James Parus Good to know.
Good video. i had a huge back fire on a 73 ford 400 c.i.d., would you expect that there would be starting issues due to the exhaust condition? is it possible? thank you.
Your vids rock man, full of info and easy to understand. Thanks brother!
enjoyed the borescope
thanks alot for this video tutorial you are a good teacher
Checked my battery when it did this yep it was a weak battery that needed to be recharged until I got a new one and it was fine since then
Great video! Do you have any experience with changing the camshaft sensors on a Hyundai 2007 Santa Fe 2.7L? I have a crank / no start issue w/ zero rpm indication. I cannot remove the Bank 1 camshaft sensor (seems the engineers at Hyundai designed the water lines that go to the cooling assembly to encroach on ).
How do you have good compression With bad valves and I can that's off it's got great compression but it won't start We took off the head and the bounce we're bent...
hey brian, how easy is fuel pump on '97 OB? i had just filled up when it wouldn't start. thanks for your videos.
great video! cant wait to see the tear down and repair videos ;)
great video .
excellent!! keep up the good educational programs
Plz do a video on pulling the cylinder head
Any idea about solving (cranking no start) on 2004 Volvo S80, replaced fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor and plugs but still not starting, no spark either, all the fuses are ok,
what would cause all injectors not to fire besides fuse, relays, or wires?
hi brian, very good video.....where are you located to service my cars
Hi Brian! This video is a great help with one of my cars BUT I seem to have everything here but it doesn't idle for more than a second.
Is there any way to test a fuel pressure regulator without the car running? The car is a 91 Miata, and I have good fuel pressure from a new fuel pump.
+Striball That's a different problem than Crank-no-start or a cylinder misfire (which FASTEC also works on). That's an issue with fuel management or air fuel metering most likely. I automatically jump to MAF failure, (without codes) vacuum leaks and wire harness issues based on my experience, but a good strategy would be hooking it up to an advanced computer and watching the numbers to see if you have a glitch, an unreasonable number for temperature, or a fuel trim that is outside the norm.
how old are the spark plug wires and what brand are they?
if there is 1 thing i learned in the trade is that overall noise for compression assumption can be overlook for anybody with low diagnostic skill. if 1 full bank is at fault it will still sound about right and/or right. having 1 out of 6 cylinder will definitly sound uneven. i got and old stratus that had 1 coil out of 2 firing as the timing was off 2 teeth. i got screwed as i didn't previously check both coil for spark and assume he flooded it at a -30c morning. when the real reason was a fail timing pulley. =)
+Kevin Gosselin Great comment. It's experiences similar to this that take a kick butt prideful mechanic and humble him/her toward being an excellent technician.
What happens if I did the paper towel over the exhaust method and it didn’t even move at all ??
Brian, how about squirting a bit of oil into the cylinders? Ken
+kenskip1
No need for that, Squirting oil in the cylinder is just to get an idea if a low compression reading is caused by bad rings or bad valves, if it's rings the compression comes up, if its valves it will not change much, the mechanical damage from the bore-scope video and the ZERO reading he got from the one cylinder is enough diagnosis to know that the engine has a mechanical failure and will need to be torn down, no need to spend any more time or make a mess with oil.
i got my 91 buick shut off then wont start. then when i got it to start it ran fine and normal shut it off then it wont start again. or sometimes it will die on it owns.
I have a 2001 eldorado starter problems crank free spinning not engaging
Hey Brian, good timing (pun), my skoda fabia didn't really want to start this afternoon? it cranked as always, and was spluttering. have you worked on these vehicles, il have to wait till next weekend tho to check spark plug.
informative and easy to understand, I enjoyed it very much, thank you!
best auto video i have seen on u tube!
I have a gx670 honda which a new carburetor was put on and ran then once warmed up it would start then later once cold it started then wouldn't do anything. Any suggestions please
What is the problem if the engine WILL start with a shot of starting fluid???
Hey Brian, what type of street bike do you have? Saw the front end of it and your helmet in the video. I've got a 97 Honda ST1100 w 80K miles. I just replaced the timing belt on it, kind of a pain had to pull all the "tupperware", front wheel, and radiator to get to it. Glad thats done.
+helidodge It's a BMW RT1200RT-P It's donning a fair bit of Tupperware too!
+briansmobile1 Cool bike
Yay! awesome video!
i love this video im learning a lot of it
Hey you didn't explain what compression is.
so i have an atv. i got it running after cleaning the carb and all that, but the exhaust is broken right at the engine block. it was running a couple days ago then it died. there is quiet a bit of gunk right by the exhaust on the engine block. could that be a factor to it not starting? it would crank but not start, and i just burned out a solinoid trying to start it again. but what’s your thoughts i would love help!!!
HEY BRIAN IS THIS A GOOD SPARK PLUG TO BUY SOME PEPOLE SAY ON AMAZON THER CHEP
hey have 1995 madza and it crank no start . i put new spark plug and the still look new the car wont igniting. it have spark. what can it be .
Dope video, very well done and really informative! 👌🏾
Can you please help me out.some one washed engine my superb skoda 2010model and engine crank but not start after that?what gonna do to get fix?
I'm curious, why is it you see on most car restoration shows on cars that haven't been running in a while they're spraying starting fluid in the intake?
+mrsemifixit Impatience. And they want instant shot gratification.
+briansmobile1 impatience to get it started? Why don't they just let fuel do the job?
Nice vid Brian!
good job amigo
Where did you get the car plate / Baghdad 20596
also what do you mean by fuel air mix, when i put starter fluid in there it pops but only for like half a second.
Exotic Axstin it means you have a fuel problem because there’s not enough fuel being sucked in for it to be fired up longer
Amazing vid very descriptive
very comprehensive video :) thanks :D
very helpful thank you
Some one can help me with my raptor660 2005 I just changed the piston, the rings and the seal valves exhausted the clutch but when I finished the engine is running but very hard
Good video. Will be interesting to find out what happened. You can't just fix the engine, you have to know what caused the problem, first. Then you have to tell us, so we will shut up!! Hehehe
P.S. Have you ordered a microphone yet. That camera mic is just awful!
pretty helpful, Thanks
Good video.
awesome. what was the final results/root cause of damage?
+Devo looked like detonation. the fuel is not supposed to explode, it's supposed to be a controlled burn, if it does explode it's called detonation, which usually takes out the ring lands. detonation can be caused by improper timing, and or improper air/fuel mix.
Detonation often seen when fuel mix is excessively lean, such a lean mix will cause overheat, it's very common on performance recreational vehicles to have holes burned through the pistons because the operator was running too lean. however, it's hard to say on this machine as I have not seen myself
+Dick Fageroni to me it looked like the same scoot that was in the vidio about gas in the oil, that four wheeler had a carbeurator, he even showed rebuilding it.ring lands just don't break for no reason, clearly this scoot has more than a few issues. the only other possibility for broken ring lands is if the engine had been rebuilt with improperly gapped rings.
+Dick Fageroni fuel exploding under the ring might be physically possible, but externally improbable as the fuel would most likely be diluted with engine oil, severely reducing its volatility, and a leaking injector would cause a rich burn, cooling the engine. and the overheat is odd as the cylinders didn't show significant scoring, granted the vidio of the the bore-scope let a lot to be desired. perhaps it overheated just enough to melt the e.f.I. brain or the oxygen sensor, causing a lean mix? idk, need more info
Hi Brian-love your channel! Step one should be offer the owner $200 for it!
I've had that offer a few times for a dead battery causing the car to not shift into neutral. I declined and sold them a battery instead.
Just messin with ya bud.Did you do a follow up vid? I'd like to see inside that cylinder with the head off.Are those jugs,or is it a block?
My car engine has good compression and has spark but starting fluid won't start it cold.... But if I bump start the car it runs perfectly fine until the engine cools off smell a little bit of gas but nothing overpowering... Toyota 22R with a webber 32/36 carb if anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated
Why would it blow up after only 1 year
Good learen thahks and mor information
What brand and model bore scope do you have?
+turbobuick33 It's an amazon find. Here's a link→ www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4L5N4A/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00N4L5N4A&linkCode=as2&tag=httpwwwyou00f-20&linkId=T7MDW2WH7KRAW72D
Thanks
Mine is clicking. Have a new battery, new alternator, new spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter, new mass air flow system and everything. But yet it still clicks when I start it. All my relays are good and fuses, but it’s like I’m getting no power to my starter. Could this be a starter issue, coil issue or switch issue? Can anyone help
That intro tho 😄
hi.my 95 nissan hardbody died out on my way to the store.right after i changed oil and tune up.help
hi any answers?
Get it towed to a junkyard. Then buy an American car.
good video amigo exselente
ive been looking for a video like this for a while. a problem im having is i have a 2002 gmc Yukon xl and when the fuel level is at 1/4 or less my car may or may not start on a level surface it just cranks but the minute i add gas to get it above 1/4 it starts and runs fine i hear the fuel pump run every time. any ideas anybody?
+Mickey Ball The first thing I would check there is the fuel pressure when it's below 1/4 tank. Next from there would be the sending unit. Was it installed properly to the bottom of the tank? Is it dark tan or brown instead of something that could be described as cream? Is the strainer intact and the right color?
A prayer for peace.
Father God, I often find myself overwhelmed by circumstances that are beyond my control, and I am easily distracted by things that don’t matter. Please forgive me for not consistently placing my trust in You. Even when I am faced with intense situations, You are still with me. You are the Creator of peace, and I can have access to Your peace-filled presence whenever I draw near to You. So instead of silencing Your Holy Spirit when I start to feel anxious or discouraged, help me to make room in my heart and mind to experience the peace You freely give. In Jesus’ name, Amen.
looks to me it overheated and destroyed the pistons.
FASTEC is a bit dated. for me it should be FAS"A"TEC - "A' for anti theft/remote start/immobilizer, the amount of vehicle coming to the shop with no start because of that system is pretty huge
+ebu touy It's titled crank no start. Anti theft would be no crank no start.
+MikeP47 not always. some vehicles will disable injector pulse
Interesting, didn't know that.
+ebu touy Great point. I had a blurb to that affect about loss of fuel or spark, but it got chopped. One of those 3am decisions your know.
{ FISS-ATE-BB-C-FAS } Fuel,,, Inertia switch ,,, spark,,, suck,,,-,,,Air,,, timing,, ,exhaust,,,-Bang,,,Blow,,,Comparison,,,-,,,fusible link,,,anti theft,, ,squeeze
Were you in Iraq? I see you have a Baghdad license plate on the wall below your whiteboard..
Hate GDI - dirty valves
Hate Turbos - more moving parts
Love good ol. carbs - Cheap to fix
+MeowJW I have a turbo with 360,000 miles on it, so... pretty invalid statement.
+MeowJW You might enjoy watching this Formula 1 car video. ruclips.net/video/QFy0ezTOLZs/видео.html This video is integral to understanding how/why things have changed over the years with fuel injection and turbos in Europe (they led the way no doubt) and the trade-off's and risks associated with complexity and increased moving part count.
+Jesse Crandle Wow Jesse! That's impressive! I'd love to know more about that.
Also, how do turbos have less or the same moving part count than a non turbo vehicle? Assuming bearings, turbines, waste gate and linkages, etc. A non turbo vehicle has less parts, i.e. plumbing and cooling, but also less moving parts too. Both my vehicles are turbo. You know where I stand on that. I'm just encouraging a little critical thinking. I like that. ruclips.net/video/pWdd6_ZxX8c/видео.html
briansmobile1 I didn't mean a turbo has less moving parts, what I meant was the assumption that because there are more moving parts that the vehicle and it's parts will be more likely to break down or have less longevity, and that is untrue. YES, a turbo adds more parts, NO a turbo is not unreliable or means more break downs. That is what my original statement meant. There's also the fact he likes carbs, they have MANY moving parts inside of them, and yet he prefers that. Carbs require maintenance, injectors can last for 200,000 miles or more.
The car only pushes about 12 psi at full boost, most people tell me that's a light pressure turbo so my statement is invalid. As far as I'm concerned they just don't want to be proven wrong, the turbo nay sayers all seem to think a turbo dies at 100,000 miles or less.
Have you heard of FLOWER POWER?
F=FUEL
L=LIGHTS
O=OIL
W=WATER
E=ELECTRICS
R=RUBBER
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow, LMAO. Seriously Dude,
+tigergreg8 Well, it's memorable!
+tigergreg8 As a jet engine mechanic, SSBB is seriously in the first chapter. Get your mind out of the gutter, lol.
+Brian I'm a man, enough said. LOL
that should be the title of the video. I'd expect a millions of views :)
I came to this vid not to watch it but to comment but i see im not the only one laughing about it.
where to air come startin ignition
Crank and start are the same thing, engine turning over is different.
please reply...