I started my 6ft box blade build 3 years ago and yesterday I started to finish it. I used 6 shanks and tore my backyard up testing it. I needed mine to give maintenance to a road on my 4 acres and my old blade was no use. Awesome project. I also like to spend money on ideas lol
If you get a skid steer bracket to put it on the loader you can have more downward force. Thats how bobcat rippers work, and aim the rippers backwards like a bobcat ripper. Rip then lift them up and drag forward with your blade. Also lift it up, torch the teeth, then take a gallon bucket with a very long glove or rope and lift the bucket full of water up to the tooth to quench the teeth to harden them.
Instead of adding more blocks, attach a tray behind the current location, use the same 3 blocks. Capitalize on leverage and not just weight. Or fill up the holes in your blocks with quikcrete. Cheaper. Do both!
You can buy hardened teeth to weld on your current rippers. They run about $6/apiece. Also you can weld the end of that I-beam closed and fill out up with concrete for extra weight without needing the cinder blocks.
@@iveneverdonethisbefore8390 If you decide not to go with teeth, some hardfacing rod might serve you well. Stoody is good. Should be around 50-53 rockwell. More if you heat treat it after.
High carbon steel is what you want. You can find some pulverizer teeth that's what you have. On a wet day that implement will pull up enough "fines" to fill in holes and pack down rock hard again. Your doing something right for the road to be as hard as it is.
Good evening Sir, you sure have a very nice Mahindra Tractor and your bead welds art looking pretty good to me 👌👍🧐 Great project and great paint in deed 👌👍🧐 simply adjusting your top links so your rear teeth can also do their part of thje work load 👌😇 Any tractor farm dealerships have spares teeth for various size Sir 👌👍 Keep up your OUTSTANDING videos Sir Cheers 👍👌🍻
Thnaks for the idea,,i too am not crazy about paying 800 for a box blade that has about 100 worth of metal...what size is your tractor,,im about to buy a compact and want to make sure one i buy can pull such things as a heavy low or road scaper,,,weight of box blade makes a huge difference in end result,,i think thats why some of the store bought ones are 1500 and up,,the land grader is also expensive,,,now i have to find a piece of IBEAM
Not bad, it ought to work. If you had of cut the Flat iron at less of an angle say like 22 1/2 degrees or even less and run some hard surfacing electrode over the leading edge it will LAST LONGER and "Self Sharpen" somewhat. But as long as it does your job, that is all you need. But, when the ends get worn, you can cut an edge in a self sharpening angle, and run some Hard Surfacing Bead over the leading edge it makes a difference. It also matter the kind of material you are cutting. When the Leading edge is HARDER than the rest of the took, the rest of the tooth will wear FASTER than the front edge and you get a "self sharpening effect". Just like a rat's tooth, the more they gnaw, the sharper the rodent's teeth get. Very similar effect.
I would purchase some hardened steel rods like they use in arena drags then weld a larger piece of pipe to your eye beam that the steel rods would fit inside. You can then lock them in place with a bolt, and move them down when they wear.
don't weld on your ripper teeth, they wear out real fast, weld angle iron L mounts you can slip those teeth between and drill holes in to make them adjustable down as they wear down, or you can pin them up when you don't want to use them.
Might be an idea to get some hard facing wire and weld up the front and bottom of your teeth. Will be alot cheeper then buying steel of a correct hardness. Nice work!
@@rosswith Just did some research on it, I didn't know about "hardfacing" until you just mentioned it, only started welding a few months ago. Thank you for the suggestion, it looks like a great idea.
I started my 6ft box blade build 3 years ago and yesterday I started to finish it. I used 6 shanks and tore my backyard up testing it. I needed mine to give maintenance to a road on my 4 acres and my old blade was no use. Awesome project. I also like to spend money on ideas lol
If you get a skid steer bracket to put it on the loader you can have more downward force. Thats how bobcat rippers work, and aim the rippers backwards like a bobcat ripper. Rip then lift them up and drag forward with your blade. Also lift it up, torch the teeth, then take a gallon bucket with a very long glove or rope and lift the bucket full of water up to the tooth to quench the teeth to harden them.
I love homemade implements. I have made many myself. That one is very interesting.
Agreed
Instead of adding more blocks, attach a tray behind the current location, use the same 3 blocks. Capitalize on leverage and not just weight. Or fill up the holes in your blocks with quikcrete. Cheaper. Do both!
Great job! I'm impressed w/your ingenuity and your welding skill. I'll bet that thing worx very well! : )
You can buy hardened teeth to weld on your current rippers. They run about $6/apiece. Also you can weld the end of that I-beam closed and fill out up with concrete for extra weight without needing the cinder blocks.
Do you have a link for the teeth you're thinking of?
@@iveneverdonethisbefore8390 If you decide not to go with teeth, some hardfacing rod might serve you well. Stoody is good. Should be around 50-53 rockwell. More if you heat treat it after.
Welds look great especially for a smaller mig machine you have. Turned out awesome
Nice job, a few tweaks and you’ll have it sorted 👍
High carbon steel is what you want. You can find some pulverizer teeth that's what you have. On a wet day that implement will pull up enough "fines" to fill in holes and pack down rock hard again. Your doing something right for the road to be as hard as it is.
If you could find a piece of old rail road track the width of your i beam a couple spot welds you could eliminate the bulky blocks
Good evening Sir, you sure have a very nice Mahindra Tractor and your bead welds art looking pretty good to me 👌👍🧐 Great project and great paint in deed 👌👍🧐 simply adjusting your top links so your rear teeth can also do their part of thje work load 👌😇 Any tractor farm dealerships have spares teeth for various size Sir 👌👍 Keep up your OUTSTANDING videos Sir Cheers 👍👌🍻
Weld the tips back up as needed. Er70S6 is a good bit harder than mild steel and will last longer. And cheaper than buying hardface wire.
Hey use bags of quick Crete they will sit right in the and put sides on to hold them in
Thanks for the idea. The only improvement I will do for mine is make each teeth bolt on and make them out of AR plating.
The road looks perfectly packed and smooth, why are you tearing it up?
I'd use sandbags - over cinder blocks... 3 x full ones would likely add 100kg - 130kg - 6 would be closer to 200kg.
Love it man instead of buying all new teeth when those ware down drill one or two holes in them and just bolt some beside it
Maybe Hardened Replaceable Ripper TIPS?
Yes, definitely.
Thanks for posting
Thnaks for the idea,,i too am not crazy about paying 800 for a box blade that has about 100 worth of metal...what size is your tractor,,im about to buy a compact and want to make sure one i buy can pull such things as a heavy low or road scaper,,,weight of box blade makes a huge difference in end result,,i think thats why some of the store bought ones are 1500 and up,,the land grader is also expensive,,,now i have to find a piece of IBEAM
👍 I like it I did the same but did 3 80lb concrete blocks
Not bad, it ought to work. If you had of cut the Flat iron at less of an angle say like 22 1/2 degrees or even less and run some hard surfacing electrode over the leading edge it will LAST LONGER and "Self Sharpen" somewhat. But as long as it does your job, that is all you need. But, when the ends get worn, you can cut an edge in a self sharpening angle, and run some Hard Surfacing Bead over the leading edge it makes a difference. It also matter the kind of material you are cutting. When the Leading edge is HARDER than the rest of the took, the rest of the tooth will wear FASTER than the front edge and you get a "self sharpening effect". Just like a rat's tooth, the more they gnaw, the sharper the rodent's teeth get. Very similar effect.
Nice job. gave me some ideas for an attachment I am welding.
Weld some end plates on the end of your I beam and fill it with concrete.
Clean seams!
HAHA Monty you beauty.
I would purchase some hardened steel rods like they use in arena drags then weld a larger piece of pipe to your eye beam that the steel rods would fit inside. You can then lock them in place with a bolt, and move them down when they wear.
What about sand bags or something? How is it holding up?
don't weld on your ripper teeth, they wear out real fast, weld angle iron L mounts you can slip those teeth between and drill holes in to make them adjustable down as they wear down, or you can pin them up when you don't want to use them.
Well done
Genius! Looks like it did the trick. Have you made any changes to it since?
lol
Great project ! 🙏🙏👍👍
Would’ve bolted the teeth on, so you can replace them as needed. Awesome job though
Might be an idea to get some hard facing wire and weld up the front and bottom of your teeth. Will be alot cheeper then buying steel of a correct hardness. Nice work!
Interesting idea, are you aware of any particular welding wire that is known to be extra hard?
@@iveneverdonethisbefore8390 yeah you can get hard facing wire at any good weld shops. We use it on excavator buckets and fixing up old plows.
@@rosswith Just did some research on it, I didn't know about "hardfacing" until you just mentioned it, only started welding a few months ago. Thank you for the suggestion, it looks like a great idea.
You d'ID not try IT before painting?
use hard facing rods instead just weld it on the tips of the shanks and yer good to go
You d'ID not try IT before painting?