These units, even in factory condition have so much charm. The overspray on the paint and the inconsistent specs between different models add a lot of character. I have had one sitting around for a while and want to get it operable again after seeing this. Thank you!
Nicely done Mike! I see Marx did the same thing on their E7 trucks that American Flyer did with the trucks on their S Gauge Alco PA's, that is disguise a four-wheel truck to look like a six-wheel one. Pretty ingenious, and it got the job done at any rate. Thanks for posting!
Excellent video/background and technical information, Mike! Great acquisition, too! I’ve been, and continue to, look for the E7 AA units at train shows and flea markets. These engines are truly charming, durable, and an excellent conversation piece! Thanks for displaying your parts source, too! Keep them coming! 🚂
I like the Marx E7's. No fat wheels, as on my big, lithographed ones and they match-up with their passenger cars quite nicely. They pull better than the lithographed ones, too. Easy to work on and quite reliable. No fat wheels means that they can run on any loop on my layout. Very nice engines.
Great review of these Marx E7's . I have the A A pair , got them at a train show a year ago for about $20+ , E unit had the same issue, but routine maintenance took care of it and now runs great . Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Very well made video. The editing. The narration. The low key backround music.Its very similar to how videos like this were made in the late 1960's to early 1970's. My all time favorite time period in American history. Nice job man.😊🎉
Hey Mike. These are often overlooked and undervalued. I have every version of these, along with the matching cabese, except for the Penn Central, Allstate, and silver Western Pacific. I have multiple sets of the more common versions. I was able to score on a complete SantaFe El Capitan passenger set, complete with the ABA units with diesel roar feature for 100 bucks in excellent condition. The plastic geared motors with traction tires are very quiet, smooth running, and strong pullers. I enjoy modifying these by adding dummy A unit headlights and adding LED Mars lights in the powered A units. I was able to buy a lot of these sets for around 40 bucks 4 years ago. These were made in SantaFe, Rock Island, Western Pacific the common green with yellow stripe, Westen Pacific the rare silver with yellow stripe. New Haven, the rare NYC in both the long and short flag versions, the rare Union Pacific, the rare Allstate and the rarest Penn Central . Some came in AA some in AB some in ABA, and some like the UP came in a single A unit. If the powered A unit had a tilt coupler, then it was sold as a single A unit only. The NYC was only sold as an AA unit, where as the SantaFe was sold as an AA, AB. and the ABA. I can assemble ABA consists of my SantaFe, RI, and green Western Pacific. I think the New Haven set was sold as an AA unit only as I have never seen an authentic B unit. I repair broken plastic cabs with super glue and sprinkle baking soda over it and build it out in layers. The baking soda is an accelerator for the super glue and will also fuse to the plastic instantly. It can be built out and sanded or filed. It will be white but can be painted to match. I have the best results using any of the liquid CA super glues over using the gel. I also use this method to make trees. The built-up area makes a natural looking branch from the trunk. This method also adds structural reinforcement to any building support beams when scratch building structures. The parts will break at stress points before the actual welded joint ever will.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Mike, FYI, I forgot to mention that I also collect the K-line S-2 switchers that use the same Marx molds as the Marx 1998. Aparently the operating couplers, I believe is part K-2100 is obsolete. I have successfully modified the much longer version used for their MP-15 switchers. I think it is part # K-2600. I have cut off the rear mounting hole, (shortening it to match the original length), that is attached to the centering spring and shaved off plastic from around the new rear socket of the coupler arm to match the original rear mounting hole to fit the rear socket as the armature is the same. I then successfully use the super glue and baking soda to reattach the plastic shortened modified centering spring. I've also been able to repair the broken couplers themselves using this method and have used a section of black plastic zip ties super glued with baking soda to the collar as a replacement for the missing centering spring. By carefully shaving off the sides of the coupler arm where attached to the new rear mounting post, the post studs will fit the existing post holes that the rear post of the armature snaps into. So far, this repair has been holding up. I would like to use a small metal spring heated up and plastic welded in place but have not found one suitable and there isn't much plastic surface area to weld to. I would be interested to know if you've found a direct operating replacement for these as this is a common problem for these models as there are two on every model and their both essential to operate on a switcher engine used for switching operations.
Hey I got just as lucky as you did last week on e-bay. Bought a pair of Marx 1095's A+A in very good condition for $48.00 plus shipping. Nobody out bid me. I already have the same A+B 1095's, silver edition, you have in the video. Next one day hopefully will be a pair of New Haven Diesels as well.😊
Thanks for the video! I just pulled out an old NH AB unit. Pretty dinged up and rhe motor needs some work. I think im going to try and repair it and repaint. Good winter project.
The story of how the last E7 in existence was saved is interesting. The version of the story I have heard is that a Penn Central shop foreman who appreciated the history of PRR 5901 (the first E7 ever built) was responsible for swapping engine numbers with a retired switcher locomotive. To make sure the subterfuge was not discovered before preservation efforts could move the unit off Penn Central property, the PRR 5901 was hidden from view by hiding it in an unused roundhouse stall.
Interesting variations on a story. BTW, #5901 was NOT the first E7 built (not even the first on the PRR - 5900). The EMD demonstrator "Train Of Tomorrow" became UP #988. #5901 IS the LAST surviving E7 in the world.
I just realized on this video that you used doors as you layout table top... Wow! As a teen in our attic to get more floor room in the attic to run my trains, there were many doors up there in the attic, so I put them up across the rafters in the attic and moved stuff up there and off the floor.
I use a set of bifold doors for temporary layouts such as for Christmas, but my permanent layout is 1/2" MDF over standard framing. I used MDF because plywood was not available during COVID.
Great video. I have several Marx E7's. One word of caution, never, ever, run them on Super O track. The buss bar will ruin the current collector plate on the motor.
The #21s are great IF you can find them in good shape. Also, I believe the #21s have the early "fat gear" design that doesn't play well with Lionel turnouts.
I've got an A-A set that I like running with the El Capitan passenger cars. The silhouettes in the cars are very nice; in color and life-like. I have the NYC A-A set too, but not the Meteor passenger cars . . . yet. Thanks for this vid!
On the side of the motor the E-unit there is a hole, spray your contact cleaner in there and also point some in that hole toward the coil, a cleaner with some kind of light oil is also a big help on the reversing unit sliding innerds of the coil.
Erie Lackawanna's "FE-22" program involved upping the wheel diameter to 38 inches as well as the regear. EL also took a 12-567-B from an E8 and installed it in an Alco RS-3 (MFAE-12 #1060). Penn Central and Conrail had a similar program, producing dozens of AERS-12 and RS3m units.
I love these spotlight videos! I have a pair of Santa Fe E7s from my aunt with the matching coaches, it's quite an impressive set once it's all put together. One of these days I'll probably get another pair to repaint, the Marx paint jobs don't do the shells justice lol.
While I personally prefer the litho metal F unit Marx made a little earlier, these have their own charm too. Hope to find a Rock Island set. If I find the parts to do it, I would like to make an A-B-B-A lashup of these E-7s, all trucks power trucks (8 power trucks total!) and a 3-wire plug between the units so they share a common reversing unit. Add a little weight inside for even better traction, and yeah, this would be a LOT of fun! Adding these to my list for York.
I just finished rebuilding a Marx tin litho F unit into a 'Super' F unit. At the TCA York meet I picked up a bunch of E7 power trucks, these have the smaller gears behind the wheels and the plastic sideframes. Swapped the plastic sideframes for metal, and rebuilt a tin litho F unit to use two E7 trucks. I refitted one of the trucks to use a Lionel coupler for compatibility. With a little extra weight inside, that unit pulled 20 postwar Lionel cars effortlessly. Of course those cars all had clean trucks and Zoom Spout oil on the bearings (My go-to oil, it works wonders!). And it can navigate 022 switches just fine thanks to the later gearing.
I live in Monroe NC and years ago. At a train store in Charlotte NC.I guy brought in a marx E7 WP.He was from Florida said the trains where stored in an small attic.Now you can imagine the moisture around in the attic.How ever some one packed it very well.There very little rust or dirt.Put it on the track it was stop and go at first.But the longer it ran the train smooth out. A bit loud so all it needed was a go cleaning and some oil.Marx makes some of the toughest motors around.
Found a Rock Island ABA set at an estate sale and I’m hooked. Great puller until the tab and slot on the powered unit failed and powered unit failed to negotiate a curve at what was now a high speed. Unit survived except the headlight. Any videos or advice on troubleshooting the headlight connections in the Marx E7?
I have a pair of the Marx units as you have shown- Not sure if it is rare but I have a E-7 make of sheet metal. I bought it on E-bay maybe 4 years ago. I assume it is Marx. I know it has a Marx motor. As always I learn so much from your videos. Keep up the good work. Thank you, Jeff
If they are Santa Fe, they are like Marx #21 diesels. If they are Rock Island, they were made by a competitor called Unique Art www.ebay.com/itm/285318406923?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=285318406923&targetid=4581183931512188&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247656&mkgroupid=1241349622402367&rlsatarget=pla-4581183931512188&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=16b7f90b3b9c1104ac179cda6c8e12bd
Nice video Mike! I have a Marx A 1095 and Dummy with double reduction. I am using one of those 3D Marx Lionel couplers but very interested in your updated version. Please let me know when you out the file out in Thing a verse. Thanks
I don't know what it is exactly, but I kind of prefer these to the big F-units made by Lionel. Maybe it's because I like the passenger E units a little more, maybe it's because it's just as toylike as a typical O gauge engine at the time and sort of scales better with smaller cars. I have been tinkering with a Marx 666, and it doesn't seem to have quite enough "oompf" to get over my pair of Lionel 022 switches, despite being double reduction and much cleaning and so on. I replaced the original knackered brushes with new ones, though the motor still runs hot - Do these motors need remagnetized every once in a while?
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks The two turnouts are pretty far apart, it seems to run across the turnout in the facing direction quite well but tends to stall when entering from the other side of the switch. The loco tends to run hot, even with the newer brushes, and isn't as quick as a typical Marx loco. My present speculation is that the motor's magnetic field is a bit weak, though my assumption comes from a background of messing around with DC HO stuff where that sometimes is the case for older locos.
Hey, do you know what is causing my E7 to squeak, creak, and groan loudly when it runs? It seems to be either on curves, or when transitioning between Marx and non-Marx track sections.
Marx A wonderful company that produced cheap affordable trains That were actually somewhat better than the Lionel counterparts More reliable great quality and just Unique
I aquired alot of Marx trains at an auction recently. I know nothing about Marx and I plan on reselling as I only collect modern Lionel & MTH. In the lot is a Penn Central and a UP E7. They seem quite hard to find.
These units, even in factory condition have so much charm. The overspray on the paint and the inconsistent specs between different models add a lot of character. I have had one sitting around for a while and want to get it operable again after seeing this. Thank you!
Great! Keep the trains running!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricksit's up and running like a dream!
Nicely done Mike!
I see Marx did the same thing on their E7 trucks that American Flyer did with the trucks on their S Gauge Alco PA's, that is disguise a four-wheel truck to look like a six-wheel one. Pretty ingenious, and it got the job done at any rate.
Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching!!
Hornby has also done that with some of their HO/OO Scale 6 axle locomotives
Excellent video/background and technical information, Mike!
Great acquisition, too! I’ve been, and continue to, look for the E7 AA units at train shows and flea markets. These engines are truly charming, durable, and an excellent conversation piece!
Thanks for displaying your parts source, too!
Keep them coming! 🚂
Thanks!!
I like the Marx E7's. No fat wheels, as on my big, lithographed ones and they match-up with their passenger cars quite nicely. They pull better than the lithographed ones, too. Easy to work on and quite reliable. No fat wheels means that they can run on any loop on my layout. Very nice engines.
Thanks for sharing!
Great review of these Marx E7's . I have the A A pair , got them at a train show a year ago for about $20+ , E unit had the same issue, but routine maintenance took care of it and now runs great . Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for sharing
Marx guy here, enjoyed the video, I own a Marx tin #21 Santa Fe E7 and value it even though it`s a bit oversized.
Thanks for sharing!
Very well made video. The editing. The narration. The low key backround music.Its very similar to how videos like this were made in the late 1960's to early 1970's. My all time favorite time period in American history. Nice job man.😊🎉
Wow, thanks!
Hey Mike. These are often overlooked and undervalued. I have every version of these, along with the matching cabese, except for the Penn Central, Allstate, and silver Western Pacific. I have multiple sets of the more common versions. I was able to score on a complete SantaFe El Capitan passenger set, complete with the ABA units with diesel roar feature for 100 bucks in excellent condition.
The plastic geared motors with traction tires are very quiet, smooth running, and strong pullers. I enjoy modifying these by adding dummy A unit headlights and adding LED Mars lights in the powered A units. I was able to buy a lot of these sets for around 40 bucks 4 years ago. These were made in SantaFe, Rock Island, Western Pacific the common green with yellow stripe, Westen Pacific the rare silver with yellow stripe. New Haven, the rare NYC in both the long and short flag versions, the rare Union Pacific, the rare Allstate and the rarest Penn Central . Some came in AA some in AB some in ABA, and some like the UP came in a single A unit. If the powered A unit had a tilt coupler, then it was sold as a single A unit only. The NYC was only sold as an AA unit, where as the SantaFe was sold as an AA, AB. and the ABA. I can assemble ABA consists of my SantaFe, RI, and green Western Pacific. I think the New Haven set was sold as an AA unit only as I have never seen an authentic B unit.
I repair broken plastic cabs with super glue and sprinkle baking soda over it and build it out in layers. The baking soda is an accelerator for the super glue and will also fuse to the plastic instantly. It can be built out and sanded or filed. It will be white but can be painted to match. I have the best results using any of the liquid CA super glues over using the gel. I also use this method to make trees. The built-up area makes a natural looking branch from the trunk. This method also adds structural reinforcement to any building support beams when scratch building structures. The parts will break at stress points before the actual welded joint ever will.
Thanks for the information!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Mike, FYI, I forgot to mention that I also collect the K-line S-2 switchers that use the same Marx molds as the Marx 1998. Aparently the operating couplers, I believe is part K-2100 is obsolete. I have successfully modified the much longer version used for their MP-15 switchers. I think it is part # K-2600. I have cut off the rear mounting hole, (shortening it to match the original length), that is attached to the centering spring and shaved off plastic from around the new rear socket of the coupler arm to match the original rear mounting hole to fit the rear socket as the armature is the same. I then successfully use the super glue and baking soda to reattach the plastic shortened modified centering spring. I've also been able to repair the broken couplers themselves using this method and have used a section of black plastic zip ties super glued with baking soda to the collar as a replacement for the missing centering spring. By carefully shaving off the sides of the coupler arm where attached to the new rear mounting post, the post studs will fit the existing post holes that the rear post of the armature snaps into. So far, this repair has been holding up. I would like to use a small metal spring heated up and plastic welded in place but have not found one suitable and there isn't much plastic surface area to weld to. I would be interested to know if you've found a direct operating replacement for these as this is a common problem for these models as there are two on every model and their both essential to operate on a switcher engine used for switching operations.
@@DRCRailroard I don't have any of the ALCO switchers, so I haven't experienced this problem.
Brilliant idea saving E7 from impending doom!!! 👍🏻
Glad you liked it!
Hey I got just as lucky as you did last week on e-bay. Bought a pair of Marx 1095's A+A in very good condition for $48.00 plus shipping. Nobody out bid me. I already have the same A+B 1095's, silver edition, you have in the video. Next one day hopefully will be a pair of New Haven Diesels as well.😊
Very nice!
Thanks for the video! I just pulled out an old NH AB unit. Pretty dinged up and rhe motor needs some work. I think im going to try and repair it and repaint. Good winter project.
Great! Keep them running!
The story of how the last E7 in existence was saved is interesting. The version of the story I have heard is that a Penn Central shop foreman who appreciated the history of PRR 5901 (the first E7 ever built) was responsible for swapping engine numbers with a retired switcher locomotive. To make sure the subterfuge was not discovered before preservation efforts could move the unit off Penn Central property, the PRR 5901 was hidden from view by hiding it in an unused roundhouse stall.
Interesting variations on a story. BTW, #5901 was NOT the first E7 built (not even the first on the PRR - 5900). The EMD demonstrator "Train Of Tomorrow" became UP #988. #5901 IS the LAST surviving E7 in the world.
Always informative videos. Thank you. Happy motoring.
Thanks, you too!
I just realized on this video that you used doors as you layout table top... Wow! As a teen in our attic to get more floor room in the attic to run my trains, there were many doors up there in the attic, so I put them up across the rafters in the attic and moved stuff up there and off the floor.
I use a set of bifold doors for temporary layouts such as for Christmas, but my permanent layout is 1/2" MDF over standard framing. I used MDF because plywood was not available during COVID.
This is a great site. Thank you. I am a small time Marx collector.
Thank you!
Great video. I have several Marx E7's. One word of caution, never, ever, run them on Super O track. The buss bar will ruin the current collector plate on the motor.
Good to know!
Nice vid Mike,
The plastic E7's are nice but the tin lithographed version (#21) is where it's at.
The #21s are great IF you can find them in good shape. Also, I believe the #21s have the early "fat gear" design that doesn't play well with Lionel turnouts.
I've got an A-A set that I like running with the El Capitan passenger cars. The silhouettes in the cars are very nice; in color and life-like. I have the NYC A-A set too, but not the Meteor passenger cars . . . yet. Thanks for this vid!
Nice set!
On the side of the motor the E-unit there is a hole, spray your contact cleaner in there and also point some in that hole toward the coil, a cleaner with some kind of light oil is also a big help on the reversing unit sliding innerds of the coil.
Thanks for the tips!
Erie Lackawanna's "FE-22" program involved upping the wheel diameter to 38 inches as well as the regear. EL also took a 12-567-B from an E8 and installed it in an Alco RS-3 (MFAE-12 #1060). Penn Central and Conrail had a similar program, producing dozens of AERS-12 and RS3m units.
L&N also re-engined ALCO RS's with EMD 567s salvaged from E units.
I love these spotlight videos! I have a pair of Santa Fe E7s from my aunt with the matching coaches, it's quite an impressive set once it's all put together. One of these days I'll probably get another pair to repaint, the Marx paint jobs don't do the shells justice lol.
Sounds great!!!
While I personally prefer the litho metal F unit Marx made a little earlier, these have their own charm too. Hope to find a Rock Island set. If I find the parts to do it, I would like to make an A-B-B-A lashup of these E-7s, all trucks power trucks (8 power trucks total!) and a 3-wire plug between the units so they share a common reversing unit. Add a little weight inside for even better traction, and yeah, this would be a LOT of fun! Adding these to my list for York.
That would be a BEAST!
I just finished rebuilding a Marx tin litho F unit into a 'Super' F unit. At the TCA York meet I picked up a bunch of E7 power trucks, these have the smaller gears behind the wheels and the plastic sideframes. Swapped the plastic sideframes for metal, and rebuilt a tin litho F unit to use two E7 trucks. I refitted one of the trucks to use a Lionel coupler for compatibility. With a little extra weight inside, that unit pulled 20 postwar Lionel cars effortlessly. Of course those cars all had clean trucks and Zoom Spout oil on the bearings (My go-to oil, it works wonders!). And it can navigate 022 switches just fine thanks to the later gearing.
I live in Monroe NC and years ago.
At a train store in Charlotte NC.I guy brought in a marx E7 WP.He was from Florida said the trains where stored in an small attic.Now you can imagine the moisture around in the attic.How ever some one packed it very well.There very little rust or dirt.Put it on the track it was stop and go at first.But the longer it ran the train smooth out.
A bit loud so all it needed was a go cleaning and some oil.Marx makes
some of the toughest motors around.
Absolutely!
Found a Rock Island ABA set at an estate sale and I’m hooked. Great puller until the tab and slot on the powered unit failed and powered unit failed to negotiate a curve at what was now a high speed. Unit survived except the headlight. Any videos or advice on troubleshooting the headlight connections in the Marx E7?
I have a pair of the Marx units as you have shown- Not sure if it is rare but I have a E-7 make of sheet metal. I bought it on E-bay maybe 4 years ago. I assume it is Marx. I know it has a Marx motor. As always I learn so much from your videos. Keep up the good work. Thank you, Jeff
If they are Santa Fe, they are like Marx #21 diesels. If they are Rock Island, they were made by a competitor called Unique Art www.ebay.com/itm/285318406923?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=285318406923&targetid=4581183931512188&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247656&mkgroupid=1241349622402367&rlsatarget=pla-4581183931512188&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=16b7f90b3b9c1104ac179cda6c8e12bd
they are Santa Fe's -- Keep up the great videos.
I'm thinking of trying to replace the rear truck with a Lionel one if I ever get a Marx E7.
Nice video Mike! I have a Marx A 1095 and Dummy with double reduction. I am using one of those 3D Marx Lionel couplers but very interested in your updated version. Please let me know when you out the file out in Thing a verse. Thanks
Since I have lived in the New Haven area all of my 76 years, I would have to choose the New Haven E7.
It's a sharp looking scheme!
Those locos act EXACTLY like my 591.
thank you for the info i have a pair of rock island
You're welcome!
I don't know what it is exactly, but I kind of prefer these to the big F-units made by Lionel. Maybe it's because I like the passenger E units a little more, maybe it's because it's just as toylike as a typical O gauge engine at the time and sort of scales better with smaller cars.
I have been tinkering with a Marx 666, and it doesn't seem to have quite enough "oompf" to get over my pair of Lionel 022 switches, despite being double reduction and much cleaning and so on. I replaced the original knackered brushes with new ones, though the motor still runs hot - Do these motors need remagnetized every once in a while?
Are the turnouts next to one another? Does the locomotive generally run slowly?
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks The two turnouts are pretty far apart, it seems to run across the turnout in the facing direction quite well but tends to stall when entering from the other side of the switch.
The loco tends to run hot, even with the newer brushes, and isn't as quick as a typical Marx loco. My present speculation is that the motor's magnetic field is a bit weak, though my assumption comes from a background of messing around with DC HO stuff where that sometimes is the case for older locos.
@@RockyRailroadProductions_B0SS Could it be a bad winding in the armature? That could cause greater resistance and lower magnetism.
Hey, do you know what is causing my E7 to squeak, creak, and groan loudly when it runs? It seems to be either on curves, or when transitioning between Marx and non-Marx track sections.
Maybe check if a wheel is out of gauge?
I have that set of Marx E7s A&B where can I find the coupler conversion
There is a link to the file to 3D print them in the video description.
Great video
Thanks!!
Thank You. Love the video👍
Thanks for watching!
I have a 1095 ABA. The only problem is that the A dummy has a plastic Tilt Coupler, but is has no slot akin to a metal tilt coupler.
As noted, some dummy A units have nonstandard couplers due to clearance problems with the pilot.
Marx A wonderful company that produced cheap affordable trains That were actually somewhat better than the Lionel counterparts More reliable great quality and just Unique
Thanks for watching!
I aquired alot of Marx trains at an auction recently. I know nothing about Marx and I plan on reselling as I only collect modern Lionel & MTH. In the lot is a Penn Central and a UP E7. They seem quite hard to find.
Those E7s are a bit harder to find. Maybe someone on the channel is in the market for them.
Got a favorite Marx set Mike?
My Marx collection is rather small, actually. I want to pick up a 333 someday, and maybe a good M10000 set.
I didn’t like the 1095 because Marx was absolutely sloppy with overspray.
They can always be repainted.