I've just been looking at one of their walking foot machines. I was on the fence but this honest review has helped me decide their machines are worth investing in. Thank you.
Very interesting how the feed actually works, good video as always Harry thank you. I have just recently purchased a cylinder arm machine and can't wait to get started on it.
These days there is a lot of negative sentiment about goods manufactured in China. However, the quality, such as your Tysew machines, can be excellent if the manufacturers have decent quality control. I have a couple of Chinese made electric motors that cost a fraction of what Baldor motors cost and they're still perfect after 25 years. Hope you got a good discount for doing this review, Harry, you fully deserve it. I, for one, certainly appreciate your videos. Cheers, Frank.
I bought a bell skiver from Tysew, and I love it. They gave me a great discount as I am a firefighter. I have four sewing machines which I might thin out and upgrade. Singer 29 K 4 treadle Singer 45 K 42 treadle Singer 45 K 21 servo motor Brother DB2-B791-013 electric motor and knee lift
This is great thanks, I was looking at a sewing machine as it's a good skill to learn and will come in handy for repairs etc. Thanks. I should add that I found you because of the coracle video. I've nearly finished mine, it's very dodgy, quite rounded on the bottom, so i hope it works!
Right On Harry! 👍🏼 An excellent review! It seems like an awesome machine. I really liked how those rollers did not leave any marks on the leather. I look forward to seeing you use the machine in some upcoming videos. Thanks for sharing. 😃
Lovely machine! Its a clone of the old pfaff 491. But made to look more square. And as you say, cuality is very good in many of the clones. As long as they have cloned a good machine model in a good way. And what better base model than a pfaff
I am on the fence about the roller foot post bed clone as you have or a walking foot post bed. Have there been times this post bed had limited you when a walking foot post may have been handy. Salesmen say post beds with roller feet aren’t really designed for heavy stuff especially veg tanned. It seems these top and bottom feed are more popular than the triple feed post beds. Thanks in advance
Hi this set up is ideal for shoe uppers as the top and bottom feed give a very good transit. I did have a walking foot post bed, but for shoe work I personally found the walking foot was more difficult to guide. This machine in the video is not suited to heavy veg tan in my opinion its great for shoe uppers and wallets , but if you are sewing heavier veg tan leathers for strong bags etc I would be looking to the cylinder arm machines like in my bag making video.
Harry sounded a great bit of kit and it’s nice that they sponsored you. Trying to find the link on here so I can listen to their website. Just made some leather sheafs as you know for the comments on the WhatsApp group but would like to learn to stitch and the machine might work for me
Hello Paul....Good to find you here....it may not be picked up by your reader but there is a drop down link beside the title.....anyway here is a link: www.tysew.co.uk and do ask anything...always do it on the bodger what's app..All the best Harry
Harry Rogers thanks Harry yes it doesn’t always pick up what’s on the screen drop bout boxes et cetera doesn’t work so thanks for the link I’ll go on there have you got any other links to where to get rivets from it seems like I go through like ball fly quite a few break we are back the wrong putting together a bit frustrating when you can’t see what you’re doing as well
Tight for space here...have a pfaff 145 myself, and make wallets, bags, belts, sandals, etc. Would you say a post bed is the "do it all" machine? I have dome some pretty unthinkable projects with my flatbed 145, but wondering whether the cylinder or post bed machine might be better suited. I know you have a number of machines, what are your thoughts?
I found the twin drive wheel post bed machine good for shoes and wallets with nm60 or 40 thread. I don't think it is a do all machine....the Juki DNU1541 was a better all rounder.
@@harryrogers Ah yes, if I remember right that's one of their "box locus" machines that is supposed to be cleaner in terms of feed. I had that on my short list as well. (Well, it was either that or the 1508, I don't remember exactly) Thank you for your reply, I have always found your content really helpful and your attitude inspiring.
Hello Harry I bought this machine couple of months ago, I had several sewing machines but I cannot find on this one how to add oil, can you help me with that? Best regards
Oil under any grey plastic caps..and take the side cover off to oil there....also I think it has loads of sealed bearings that are maintenancefree, but best check with Tysew to be sure.
Your video is great quality as always! I bought Mauser Special 591, but I'm surprised that the length of the outer radius stitch when sewing small radius (about 1-2") curved seams, is much longer as the length of the inner radius stitch. Have you tried sew small radius left/right seams? May be is there some adjustments? I tried put feeding wheel closer/farther from needle, but no significant changes seen. Mauser has B and C modifications. I have an C specification, this can use needles up to 130 Nm, but I used 160 Nm needle with 4 mm thick leather with no problems. Great machine!
Hello and thanks. I think the curved seam effect is a feature of all roller feeds.....I know it's been mentioned on leatherworker net before. I think the usual mitigations are to use optimal wheel pressure...I.e. not too firm, and smaller stitches..but I think it's a feature of this type of feed...perhaps someone else here can add their view as I am not completely certain about this. Thanks again...Harry
Hi Harry, I'm here again asking another question. For motorcycle leathers repairs, would you recommend a cylinder arm or a post bed machine? I already have a tysew walking foot flat bed, but looking to purchase a second one. Where I'm struggling at the moment is when I have to do top stitching on arms and legs since I can't get inside, or when I sew patches, again on arms and legs. I've contacted tysew and they recommend a cylinder arm. Thanks Devid
I think a cylinder arm because you can get more leather leg or arm along the cylinder, on a post machine the post bit is only 6 inches or so, unless you find a specialist machine with a very high post. It you can, take some sewing samples along to Tysew and ask to try both machines.
Thanks @@harryrogers. One more question, if you don't mind? I've altered the stitch distance but now my wheel/foot has stopped turning. Is there a way of activating it again please?
DO you have any more information for the servo motor that is provided ? The options available i see are the WR561- with speed 5000rpm JK-550J (550W) 5000rpm JK-750J (750W) 3000rpm They all seem excessive , but i suspect its because of my lack of knowledge. Is it because of the 3:1 speed reducer Many thanks
I've always wondered what goes on under the arm or base like how it ties the knot or fastens it on the bottom side of the material,, if that makes sense could you do a video on that by chance?
I’m still not clear on the difference between cylinder arm and post bed machines. Are there things you would only use one or the other? Or are they interchangeable?
Hi some shapes you will struggle to get on a cylinder arm machine but you can do on a post, like the counter seams on some shoes, or the inside of a bag....but also bear I mind the different feed mechanisms, rollers in this post versus feed dogs in the cylinder arm etc....they are both optimised for specialist sewing operations.
@@InspiralJez You can at your risk put speed reducing pulleys on it to get a 3 to 1 reduction. I have posted a couple of videos on slowing down an industrial sewing machine, I find it gives more control.
@@harryrogers thanks, i see your one and thought that is the ticket, nice and slow easy does, but trying to position the needle and knee lift, and hitting the pedal it just rips it out of my hand, its like an unruly pulling dog on leash!
Hope you or any of your subscribers don't mind giving a bit of advice to a relative newbie. I will shortly been buying a cylinder arm sewing machine. Would you recommend a second hand JUKI DSC 246 with a 1 year warranty or a new TY-3600-C-1 also with a 1 year warranty? I know you said not to be nervous of clones but I really don't know which is best. Thanks in advance
Ron I don't really know....I wonder what is the price difference, and how old is the Juki, and how worn. Is resale an issue for you, are you going to give the machine a hard life, or more light use...so many variables. It might be worth having a chat with Tysew and see what they have to say, and make up your own mind. I am very happy with my Tysew cylinder arm, as I am with my Juki flat bed.
Hi Thanks for responding. I've made the decision to go for a Juki ls1341 on the basis that it'll do everything I want to do on a cylinder arm now and in the future without running out of steam. More expensive but hopefully worth it in the long run
@@harryrogers its interesting. It seems the post bed would be more versatile as it allows you to do bag side seams and bottom seams more easily? Is this not the case? Why is cylinder arm better for bag making?.
@@jayjohnson7423 I have found the cylinder arm is better able to cope with variations in seam thickness and still give even stitches, and it can generally handle tougher sewing jobs. I do take your point about the bottom seams. But hey that is only my experience and I am not a sewing machine seller, so it is probably a good idea to ask the experts at a company such as Tysew for their opinion. I think it may also depend on the type of bag and the thickness of the leather you are using.....so for example take a look at my video of making a Mailbag. Also take a look at how Mulberry bags are made as that may help you decide what is best for you. I am sorry that has probably just made things more difficult for you.
Hi in the video I am putting nm60 bonded nylon through it. I have also put some nm40 through it. Needle wise it goes from an 80 to a 120, the manual gives the Singer needle scale as 11-20. Presser foot lift is 7mm by hand, and 14mm by knee. Max sewing speed is 2500rpm and it has a hefty 41mm needle bar stroke....I hope that helps Lvx. Best wishes Harry.
Hi Harry. Great video. I use a walking foot machine for upholstery, and that is what is always recommended. Would this machine be suitable for vinyl ?. It seems to do a very nice topstitch. Regards, Paul.
Hi Paul, I think it would be very suited to vinyl with the top and bottom feeds, plus the needle feed. It has super visibility for needle placement. I think if you cannot get to Tysew, you could send a sample of your vinyl for them to do a sample sew. I hope that helps. Best wishes Harry
Do you have a flat bed anymore/did you ever have a flat bed!? I've been thinking about swapping my flat bed for a post stitch for a while and I think you might have convinced me to do it! I do all my stitching on a cylinder arm and the flat bed is just collecting dust.
Hello ...yes I do have a flatbed...I use it for heavier duty work ...it's a Juki DNU1641 that Tysew can sell you as an original or clone. I am using the post bed for shoes and wallets. I could do wallets on a flat bed but the post bed is ideally suited as it's a lighter thread machine with excellent visibility around the needle, and good transit. I would not be without my flatbed for other jobs.
Hi Raymond I like my cylinder arm machine ...features in my leather mail bag sewing video, it's a Tysew...I think you will find the model in the comments or description or give Tysew a call. Best wishes Harry
@@khaleelkhsfashion706 did you order the 9910 post machine? did u find out if it is the same machine? i'm also looking for a leather sewing machine with a low speed setting.
Hi Trever, I think it's because they are primarily used for shoe work. I would like them to have a reverse as I use the machine for all sorts of things. What I often do, apart from the obvious turning the work around to get reverse equivalent, is I sew two stitches, lift the foot, push back and sew again over those two stitches to lock the row. All the best Harry
lol... the prices! I'am looking at 2-3x prices from swedish suppliers for cylinder arms, the few that actually list prices... Better to import from this tysew.uk that got transparent pricing, even if its slapped on a 100 or 200£ freight charge. Thanks :)
Pop along to Tysew, or your local sewing shop that can also do repairs. Needle jams are usually down to bent needle, wrong needle or thread or machine out of time.
Fantastic closeup photography showing how the Tysew grips the leather, and is adjustable for different pressures Harry, thanks for that.
Thanks Dav I appreciate that.
I've just been looking at one of their walking foot machines. I was on the fence but this honest review has helped me decide their machines are worth investing in. Thank you.
Very interesting how the feed actually works, good video as always Harry thank you. I have just recently purchased a cylinder arm machine and can't wait to get started on it.
These days there is a lot of negative sentiment about goods manufactured in China. However, the quality, such as your Tysew machines, can be excellent if the manufacturers have decent quality control. I have a couple of Chinese made electric motors that cost a fraction of what Baldor motors cost and they're still perfect after 25 years.
Hope you got a good discount for doing this review, Harry, you fully deserve it. I, for one, certainly appreciate your videos.
Cheers, Frank.
Thanks very much Frank, that's very good of you, and much appreciated.
I bought a bell skiver from Tysew, and I love it. They gave me a great discount as I am a firefighter. I have four sewing machines which I might thin out and upgrade.
Singer 29 K 4 treadle
Singer 45 K 42 treadle
Singer 45 K 21 servo motor
Brother DB2-B791-013 electric motor and knee lift
Oh a nice collection there!
Thank you for sharing this wonderful video and experience in choosing a machine. You are always very helpful .Blessings
Thanks very much.
I'm getting one of the Post machines next year. I have it budgeted.
what a beautiful beast!
This is great thanks, I was looking at a sewing machine as it's a good skill to learn and will come in handy for repairs etc. Thanks. I should add that I found you because of the coracle video. I've nearly finished mine, it's very dodgy, quite rounded on the bottom, so i hope it works!
Oh that sounds good fun...make sure you have a life jacket...just as an insurance!!
@@harryrogers I understand. It's a big step. Thank you for the advise.
Right On Harry! 👍🏼 An excellent review! It seems like an awesome machine. I really liked how those rollers did not leave any marks on the leather. I look forward to seeing you use the machine in some upcoming videos. Thanks for sharing. 😃
Thanks very much Jon.
Lovely machine! Its a clone of the old pfaff 491. But made to look more square.
And as you say, cuality is very good in many of the clones. As long as they have cloned a good machine model in a good way.
And what better base model than a pfaff
I believe Pfaff is the premium quality machines. So much so, I purchased an old used pfaff 193 (not reverse) instead of a new clone with reverse.
Great machine
Hi Harry nice one good info to the point. If I ever get one and I stuck it's you I'll be emailing ha ha :)
Great machine 😊
I am on the fence about the roller foot post bed clone as you have or a walking foot post bed. Have there been times this post bed had limited you when a walking foot post may have been handy. Salesmen say post beds with roller feet aren’t really designed for heavy stuff especially veg tanned. It seems these top and bottom feed are more popular than the triple feed post beds. Thanks in advance
Hi this set up is ideal for shoe uppers as the top and bottom feed give a very good transit. I did have a walking foot post bed, but for shoe work I personally found the walking foot was more difficult to guide. This machine in the video is not suited to heavy veg tan in my opinion its great for shoe uppers and wallets , but if you are sewing heavier veg tan leathers for strong bags etc I would be looking to the cylinder arm machines like in my bag making video.
Harry sounded a great bit of kit and it’s nice that they sponsored you. Trying to find the link on here so I can listen to their website. Just made some leather sheafs as you know for the comments on the WhatsApp group but would like to learn to stitch and the machine might work for me
Hello Paul....Good to find you here....it may not be picked up by your reader but there is a drop down link beside the title.....anyway here is a link: www.tysew.co.uk and do ask anything...always do it on the bodger what's app..All the best Harry
Harry Rogers thanks Harry yes it doesn’t always pick up what’s on the screen drop bout boxes et cetera doesn’t work so thanks for the link I’ll go on there have you got any other links to where to get rivets from it seems like I go through like ball fly quite a few break we are back the wrong putting together a bit frustrating when you can’t see what you’re doing as well
Tight for space here...have a pfaff 145 myself, and make wallets, bags, belts, sandals, etc.
Would you say a post bed is the "do it all" machine?
I have dome some pretty unthinkable projects with my flatbed 145, but wondering whether the cylinder or post bed machine might be better suited.
I know you have a number of machines, what are your thoughts?
I found the twin drive wheel post bed machine good for shoes and wallets with nm60 or 40 thread. I don't think it is a do all machine....the Juki DNU1541 was a better all rounder.
@@harryrogers Ah yes, if I remember right that's one of their "box locus" machines that is supposed to be cleaner in terms of feed. I had that on my short list as well. (Well, it was either that or the 1508, I don't remember exactly)
Thank you for your reply, I have always found your content really helpful and your attitude inspiring.
Hello Harry I bought this machine couple of months ago, I had several sewing machines but I cannot find on this one how to add oil, can you help me with that? Best regards
Oil under any grey plastic caps..and take the side cover off to oil there....also I think it has loads of sealed bearings that are maintenancefree, but best check with Tysew to be sure.
I need sewing machine for suitcase trooly luggage plastic moulded
Compared to the product you are describing now. If I buy old singer sewing 45k89, is it worth it?
Hi its a matter of horses for courses...if you want to do shoe uppers or wallets I would choose the Tysew, but not for heavy veg tan.
@@harryrogers I was wondering if I should buy the 45k89. Then you'd be better off not buying it.
Your video is great quality as always! I bought Mauser Special 591, but I'm surprised that the length of the outer radius stitch when sewing small radius (about 1-2") curved seams, is much longer as the length of the inner radius stitch. Have you tried sew small radius left/right seams? May be is there some adjustments? I tried put feeding wheel closer/farther from needle, but no significant changes seen.
Mauser has B and C modifications. I have an C specification, this can use needles up to 130 Nm, but I used 160 Nm needle with 4 mm thick leather with no problems. Great machine!
Hello and thanks. I think the curved seam effect is a feature of all roller feeds.....I know it's been mentioned on leatherworker net before. I think the usual mitigations are to use optimal wheel pressure...I.e. not too firm, and smaller stitches..but I think it's a feature of this type of feed...perhaps someone else here can add their view as I am not completely certain about this. Thanks again...Harry
@@harryrogers Thank you Harry.
Hi Harry, I'm here again asking another question. For motorcycle leathers repairs, would you recommend a cylinder arm or a post bed machine? I already have a tysew walking foot flat bed, but looking to purchase a second one. Where I'm struggling at the moment is when I have to do top stitching on arms and legs since I can't get inside, or when I sew patches, again on arms and legs. I've contacted tysew and they recommend a cylinder arm.
Thanks
Devid
I think a cylinder arm because you can get more leather leg or arm along the cylinder, on a post machine the post bit is only 6 inches or so, unless you find a specialist machine with a very high post. It you can, take some sewing samples along to Tysew and ask to try both machines.
@@harryrogers Thank you very much for your quick reply. Yes, I will pop in there and try both machines. Have a nice day!
I’ve just bought this machine, how do I reverse the wheel to do a back tack?
Hi you need to turn the work around, turn when needle is down.
Thanks @@harryrogers. One more question, if you don't mind? I've altered the stitch distance but now my wheel/foot has stopped turning. Is there a way of activating it again please?
Can I get this please in Nigeria?! If yes how do I contact your agent
DO you have any more information for the servo motor that is provided ?
The options available i see are the WR561- with speed 5000rpm
JK-550J (550W) 5000rpm
JK-750J (750W) 3000rpm
They all seem excessive , but i suspect its because of my lack of knowledge. Is it because of the 3:1 speed reducer
Many thanks
Hi I think it's a 500w...looks like a Jack but I am not sure..it's very good...better than my older Jack servos....best ask Tysew to be sure.
I've always wondered what goes on under the arm or base like how it ties the knot or fastens it on the bottom side of the material,, if that makes sense could you do a video on that by chance?
Hi Joseph...I recall seeing a video....something like the secret life of sewing machines?
I’m still not clear on the difference between cylinder arm and post bed machines. Are there things you would only use one or the other? Or are they interchangeable?
Hi some shapes you will struggle to get on a cylinder arm machine but you can do on a post, like the counter seams on some shoes, or the inside of a bag....but also bear I mind the different feed mechanisms, rollers in this post versus feed dogs in the cylinder arm etc....they are both optimised for specialist sewing operations.
great video, does it have back stitch ability?
@@InspiralJez This one does not, so you have to turn the work around...I soon got used to it.
@@harryrogers thank you!
@@harryrogershi, i just bought one of these and even at 200 it is far far to fast, is there a way to slow it down like yours? Thanks!
@@InspiralJez You can at your risk put speed reducing pulleys on it to get a 3 to 1 reduction. I have posted a couple of videos on slowing down an industrial sewing machine, I find it gives more control.
@@harryrogers thanks, i see your one and thought that is the ticket, nice and slow easy does, but trying to position the needle and knee lift, and hitting the pedal it just rips it out of my hand, its like an unruly pulling dog on leash!
Hope you or any of your subscribers don't mind giving a bit of advice to a relative newbie. I will shortly been buying a cylinder arm sewing machine. Would you recommend a second hand JUKI DSC 246 with a 1 year warranty or a new TY-3600-C-1 also with a 1 year warranty? I know you said not to be nervous of clones but I really don't know which is best. Thanks in advance
Ron I don't really know....I wonder what is the price difference, and how old is the Juki, and how worn. Is resale an issue for you, are you going to give the machine a hard life, or more light use...so many variables. It might be worth having a chat with Tysew and see what they have to say, and make up your own mind. I am very happy with my Tysew cylinder arm, as I am with my Juki flat bed.
Hi
Thanks for responding. I've made the decision to go for a Juki ls1341 on the basis that it'll do everything I want to do on a cylinder arm now and in the future without running out of steam. More expensive but hopefully worth it in the long run
@@Teuchteronabike Hi Ron, it's a nice machine, I think you should be happy with that.
Awesome videos Harry. Which do you recommend if you could only purchase one, post or cylinder and why?
Making bags...cylinder, making shoes...post
@@harryrogers its interesting. It seems the post bed would be more versatile as it allows you to do bag side seams and bottom seams more easily? Is this not the case? Why is cylinder arm better for bag making?.
@@jayjohnson7423 I have found the cylinder arm is better able to cope with variations in seam thickness and still give even stitches, and it can generally handle tougher sewing jobs. I do take your point about the bottom seams. But hey that is only my experience and I am not a sewing machine seller, so it is probably a good idea to ask the experts at a company such as Tysew for their opinion. I think it may also depend on the type of bag and the thickness of the leather you are using.....so for example take a look at my video of making a Mailbag. Also take a look at how Mulberry bags are made as that may help you decide what is best for you. I am sorry that has probably just made things more difficult for you.
What is the largest thread size they will handle? I looked at the product specs but they never seem to show that info.
Hi in the video I am putting nm60 bonded nylon through it. I have also put some nm40 through it. Needle wise it goes from an 80 to a 120, the manual gives the Singer needle scale as 11-20. Presser foot lift is 7mm by hand, and 14mm by knee. Max sewing speed is 2500rpm and it has a hefty 41mm needle bar stroke....I hope that helps Lvx. Best wishes Harry.
Pls how much does it cost.?
Please see the link in the video description.
Hi Harry. Great video. I use a walking foot machine for upholstery, and that is what is always recommended. Would this machine be suitable for vinyl ?. It seems to do a very nice topstitch. Regards, Paul.
Hi Paul, I think it would be very suited to vinyl with the top and bottom feeds, plus the needle feed. It has super visibility for needle placement. I think if you cannot get to Tysew, you could send a sample of your vinyl for them to do a sample sew. I hope that helps. Best wishes Harry
@@harryrogers Thank you Harry, I thought it might be especially suitable for topstitching.
Do you have a flat bed anymore/did you ever have a flat bed!? I've been thinking about swapping my flat bed for a post stitch for a while and I think you might have convinced me to do it! I do all my stitching on a cylinder arm and the flat bed is just collecting dust.
Hello ...yes I do have a flatbed...I use it for heavier duty work ...it's a Juki DNU1641 that Tysew can sell you as an original or clone. I am using the post bed for shoes and wallets. I could do wallets on a flat bed but the post bed is ideally suited as it's a lighter thread machine with excellent visibility around the needle, and good transit. I would not be without my flatbed for other jobs.
@@harryrogers super thanks Harry!
I am looking for bag repair sewing machine a good one can I know with model
Hi Raymond I like my cylinder arm machine ...features in my leather mail bag sewing video, it's a Tysew...I think you will find the model in the comments or description or give Tysew a call. Best wishes Harry
I want this post bed machine can they send to Italy
I believe so .... ask them how much, I am pretty certain they have sent machines to Europe.
@@harryrogers okay thanks 🙏🏼
@@FloJayCreativityTV order it from China direct via alibaba this machine same 9910 post machine i order it directly from there
@@khaleelkhsfashion706 did you order the 9910 post machine? did u find out if it is the same machine? i'm also looking for a leather sewing machine with a low speed setting.
Why don’t they put reverse on these type of machines. My consew 701 doesn’t have one as well.
Hi Trever, I think it's because they are primarily used for shoe work. I would like them to have a reverse as I use the machine for all sorts of things. What I often do, apart from the obvious turning the work around to get reverse equivalent, is I sew two stitches, lift the foot, push back and sew again over those two stitches to lock the row. All the best Harry
Never figured out how to oil my machine
What model is this machine?
Hi The link to buy this machine is in the video description The video description is just below the video title. Thank you.
lol... the prices! I'am looking at 2-3x prices from swedish suppliers for cylinder arms, the few that actually list prices... Better to import from this tysew.uk that got transparent pricing, even if its slapped on a 100 or 200£ freight charge. Thanks :)
Where do you buy needle clamp screws ? And how do I sew without getting the needle jammed ?
Pop along to Tysew, or your local sewing shop that can also do repairs. Needle jams are usually down to bent needle, wrong needle or thread or machine out of time.
How to slow down the speed tysew 1300-1 walking foot heavy duty industrial sewing machine for unpolstry
Hi I have posted other videos on how to slow a sewing machine.