As a new homeowner with an unfinished garage, you are my new god. Thanks for this and the other videos. I'm insulating my garage next month! THANK YOU!
Caffeine running amuck! Mayday he’s gonna crash! You did a real good job insulating and boarding the joint up. You have overhead storage and it should be quieter inside. Better in winter and summer. Get that a/c working and you’re good to go! Looks better in there now. Enjoyed the disco ball gag near the end!
I just released part 4! lol. 7 years later. Now that the front of the garage is finished, the rest of it is getting insulated and sheeted. Probably be part 5. The workbench wall sucks because it's attached to the studs. It's gonna be good times.
briansmobile1 Thanks man! I used the conduit pipe so that I can change what... well... you know why. Accessibility. My 240V outlet might get moved, or I may add another 240V circuit for a plasma cutter/TIG welder. It's so much easier to fish it through the conduit. Who knows... maybe if I don't move the outlet, it may become RJ-45/R6 coax? The possibilities are endless... but at least the wall panel doesn't have to move. I think the South wall might get conduit for everything, because that's where all the important stuff would go. Always great to hear from you Brian!
Love what you did to the place. keeps you from the cold while working. Would glue styrofoam plates in the door for a bitt extra. I have to do it with a rental brick garage box, and a little place where i can putt my bike. Greets JD
The Disco ball is definitely the finishing touch, a sign of great taste.. LOL BTW - I'd gladly live in your garage now!! :-))) "Stand by to repel boarders" Im coming over.... ha ha
Its difficult to stop production to paint. With gloss white ,light reflection increases big time. I used foil bubble wrap where you use black material. It really helps w/ heating and cooling. Nice tight joints on walls.
Yeah, but remove it. This is one of my top 5 videos (?why?) and I may take this video down. Don't use non-breathable materials. I kept a close eye on this, and for context I have an 11 year old non-leaky roof. It took 8-9 years before signs showed up, but they showed up. Mold will grow eventually. All it takes is just takes the right set of conditions if you use plastic, and apparently over just this past summer and winter, I had the right set of conditions. It's as if it rained for 7 months here. We got well over twice our annual rainfall-just during the summer, and it cancelled nearly every racing event. The wet summer caused a mold explosion across the east coast and Appalachia. Then over the winter, we had 6 big snow storms to keep the air nice and wet during each thaw. That roof was under a foot of snow for several weeks. It froze and thawed a few times. Humidity will condense on the inside of the plastic once the indoor/outdoor temperatures are at extremes, and that's enough to trigger spores that are already in the air to root. Someone posted a warning about this in my comments 3 years after I posted this video. I initially freaked out, gave a thorough inspection, no problems, cut vents into the plastic (in vain) to help it breathe and things were fine for years. I remained a skeptic. The structure would mold eventually with or without the insulation and plastic if left neglected. So I didn't remove the video. But like I said, all it takes is the right set of conditions. Plastic non-breathable materials are the perfect catalyst to cause moisture, and the insulation touching it accelerates it. It's because Kraft backing on the insulation is practically a freshly plowed and fertilized field as far as mold spores are concerned. I have an ozone generator that I bought because of a car purchase that sat in the woods under a cover for a decade. It will do the same thing for interior spaces once all this stuff comes out. It just started, but the 6 snow and ice storms and my use of plastic is why it's a problem now.
Dude you're my hero. Eyeballing it..... wtf man lolz! Congratz on the partnership though. You post vids cuz you enjoy doing it and you make some extra dough while doing so. Win
Nice work. What's the purpose of the black plastic in the roof? The craft paper provides a vapor barrier. The plastic might trap moisture between the two layers. It would also make it difficult to isolate a leak in the roof. Now I'd paint it white using cheap ceiling paint. That will really make things easier to see with a smaller amount of light.
I put it up there just to hold the insulation in place, really... After I put the insulation up it began to sag and fall over time. Staples wouldn't hold it. All it does is hold the insulation up. I didn't have another purpose for it. If I ever see water running down a garage wall, I have no aversion to cutting it out. As of right now, it's a 7 year old roof, and everything in the garage since I've owned it has been dry as a bone, rain or shine. I lucked out and got a good garage with my house. :)
***** It seems that the plastic layer has been up at least two winters. If you have occasion to look behind the plastic, you should watch for mold on the paper facing. This would be caused by water condensing between the plastic and the paper layers in the winter months. Check out some material on the 'net about double vapor barriers. I suspect that you have little to worry about as long as the plastic doesn't rip.
Jim Babcock I did what you suggested. No problems. I didn't see any evidence of moisture on the Kraft paper. I can see how if the roof leaks it would have a problem, but there's a ridge vent that goes the full length of the roof, and on the inside, the plastic is open at the top so it can breathe. On the other side of the insulation is bare wood... so technically there's just one barrier, and it isn't sealed a foot from the ridge vent, nor down at the eaves.
excellent work!! I'm looking into turning my garage into a gym and was wondering what I would be looking at cost wise in all.. only thing is once took out all the garbage, etc the cement floor was all cracked up so I'm really stressing from scratch..
I was going to say "Can heat that place with a candle now!" but sounds like cooling is more of a problem to deal with in your neck of the woods. Were you 45 cutting the corner pieces? Watching you lay out all the cut-outs for the roof studs and trusses was making me twitch. You're a much more thorough man than me, my friend! Stuff like that drives me crazy! Even when I occasionally get it right.
We got snow TODAY where I live. No foolin'. End of March. How 'bout them Apples? It is MUCH easier to do both. My old-skool Citation AC unit bit the big one, and I bought a used window unit heat pump for $150 on Craigslist. It can easily keep the whole garage an even temperature year-round for about $60 a month. Made a HUGE difference. I still need to finish that one wall. :P
***** Dude, I'm in Maine. The snowbanks won't be gone until May. Hell, they're saying this week we're getting a snowstorm WITH hurricane force winds. Good times. Cry me a river about your end of March snow. We'll get another plowable storm at the end of April, sure as anything. I wasn't busting on the 45s, I'd just never seen it done that way. Thought there might have been some really nifty reason. :)
Would a *duct* have made that small exhaust fan more efficient? I'm surprised you didn't also insulate and vapor barrier the _overhead_ door. Thin, flimsy, air gaps, and 1 thickness of plexiglass for windows (that could be reduced to one single).
Agree about comment about plastic I made the same mistake in a crawl space, put up rolled insulation then plastic huge pain in the ass trapped moisture; caused mold .I tore all plastic down. Chip board or glued fiber board different grades and so on, I still don’t like it I know everyone uses it; the main reason is cheaper to use. The job looked good nice warm garage now!
It was demonetized because there's a 1-second scene of a product purchased off the shelf at my local hardware store that uses the SPANISH WORD FOR BLACK to describe what color the plastic is. I wish I was kidding.
I have heard that insulating a roof like you did in this video will bake the shingles and they won't last. Have you noticed any issues with your shingles since this video?
No, I didn't make it airtight. It's open on the top and bottom, and I have a vented crown. It's also open to the garage below. it receives plenty of airflow from the sag. I don't have any moisture issues in this structure. The roof doesn't leak and none of the OSB is water damaged. I did think about cutting some flaps in it, though. It's really just there for structural reasons so gravity doesn't win.
+Jason Tetterton It's fun to leave surprises behind for other people who may someday chose to remodel. It's like an easter egg. I've encountered other people's work before. It's almost like vandalism, except that you left the space better than you found it.
It's "terrible" brand. No really, it's been a decent compressor, but I wore this thing out. It took me 6 years, and it's done. I threw too many jobs at it that were bigger than my reserve. The regulator assembly leaks constantly now. I can't find parts for it to fix it and if I can't, it's upgrade time. My recommendation is a two-stage Ingersoll Rand unit because it's the last one you'll ever buy, but if you have to go on the cheap like I did and snag a Harbor Freight 240V 40+ gallon unit, just have the expectation to replace it from time to time. My mom had bad luck buying 3 different models from them that were either missing pieces or defective straight out of the box. My experience was different, but its a unit for a weekend warrior, not a daily workhorse.
***** thanks alot for your time to reply to me, i don't expect to use it everyday, but still need a 10to 15 cfm unit that if possible would fit under my bench,so far the only one i've seen were ingersoll rand and rolair wheelbarow unit but they are in the 1100 to 1400 CAD
Well, mine was $450 + BYO plug. Wiring it in cost me another $150 for the circuit, outlet and plug. If I bought another compressor like it to replace it after 6 years (versus a proprietary $5 gasket that's unavailable), suddenly I'm getting close to that range. 6 more years and I'll be deep into that price range. If it were an IR, I could just buy the $5 gasket or any other service part that it ever needed to easily fix it myself. You probably need a horizontal tank. This compressor I have is almost 5 feet tall, so you would need an uncomfortably tall workbench. It's also really loud. Several of my friends own compressors you can barely hear running. I want one of those next go-round because of what that noise does to my audio tracks (and my ears).
thanks, that is really convincing me, in your video it was lookink like it was only 3 feet hign and that woud had been perfect. being in canada, i pay 20% more at harbor freight for the exchange rate while it stay the same for a nice rolair or ir wheelbarrow that would deliver between 11-17 cfm
Галым Бердыкулов I still go for the studs for shelving, but peg boards, lighting, electrical outlets, compressor line piping and hanging auto parts, yes, works beautifully. Works a whole lot better for that kind of stuff than you can ever get away with using sheetrock.
Галым Бердыкулов There may be an error in translation... Studs are the vertical wooden beams that the walls are framed with. It sounds like you're referring to nails, which you drive with a hammer. I used screws on everything I hung from the studs. 28 of them on each 4'x8' panel. It might hold a heavy shelf, but I still center the mounting points for the shelves on the studs behind the panels.
I can confirm this. I've kept an eye on it and it's been fine for the past 8 years. But 2018 brought us 4 major hurricanes multiple record setting rainfall, and twice this winter we got deep snow and ice. The vent fan box fan thing isn't hurricane proof. Those storms seems to also have taken a toll on my roof because I have a water stain, and mold after the snow and ice accumulations thawed. I've kept the rest of it pretty dry and ventilated because of comments I received back when I uploaded this. I cut vents in the plastic to let the paper breathe. We had a few warm days recently that left me working in my garage and I spotted the bloom on the paper backing on the side by the vent. But because I found SOME of it, it's all coming down for inspection and remediation. I've been able to keep it dry over the years, but once I had a water problem with this spring thaw, it made it happen really fast. It hasn't made it very far, The water got in because of the garage door (that I ended up replacing in the next "garage mod" video), and the vent fan. Storm winds would create a cross-draft leaking through the door and suck water in the attic vent. I've fixed the door, but it was an absolutely stupid problem to have.
Hi everyone by any chance anyone knows what is the brand of the air compressor shown in the video? bought one like this a while back and i love it but a previous owner removed all the decals so i know nothing about it, not even the size, no specs at all, any info will be much appreciated
I'm at the point of osb or Sheetrock for my shop never thought of using osb but I've seen more n more people using it? Benefits versus one over the other?
depending on how you use the garadge osb is all around a better choice due to durability and the fact you can hang heavy weight items from the wall without finding a stud.
Pussylipshiz 19/32 OSB is currently $13 a sheet. The cost for the R19 insulation beneath each of those panels is $17.51 per sheet. The total in today prices for the walls is $30 for every 4 feet of wall, plus whatever fasteners you choose to use.
When I bought my last house, my builder warned me that the attic space over the garage wasn't load rated for storage! Yikes! So before anyone decides to deck the space over their garage, better find out what the trusses can support. If you put hundreds of pounds of crap in the garage attic without proper load-rated trusswork, you could pull your roof down! Not the result you want. For electrical work, there are good books out there with all the codes explained in plain English. If you are not code savvy, it could cost you a lot more than a fine. You could burn your place down.
really cool stuff. Just a recommendation if you are doing this for others too with all the comments asking for hire...learn a little more about electrical, lots of the stuff you did would never pass NEC if the NEC is anywhere close to as strict as Canadian electrical code. Could come back to bite you in the ass. or better yet just leave it to an electrician. NOTE, I'm only saying this if the american code is as bad as up here in Canada. Electrical is taken very serious here, even if you're licensed doing work you can get screwed its happened to my co workers. $15 000 fine just for not having a permit (and for some reason they really look into it) Otherwise really cool stuff. Definitely got some good ideas for my garage.
It had a bulb-fuse problem that took it out of commission after repairing it 8 separate times. That thing is responsible for the deaths of 8 pairs of speakers now including Cerwin Vega AT-12's, 3 sets of Altec Lansing Series 7s, 4 Yamaha I-have-no-idea what models, and 2 sets of generic '90's-era component speakers. It's never seen more than 2/3 of the dial, and that was painful. It just simply shreds speakers. There's a good reason they're valuable because nothing's louder. But if you know anything about what these things weigh, you pay a loss to sell them. This one's getting re-vitalized as soon as I can find a pair of Klipsch Cornwalls in decent shape. Until then I can do without the every-6-month trip to the electronics repair shop. I'm using Adcom equipment in its place right now.
Yikes! Sounds like that unit is ready for a complete overhaul. I have a SX-1250 that I bought from a second owner WORN OUT for $400, sent it to Detroit from Idaho for a complete restore and customizing job. That alone cost around $900 with shipping. It looks and sounds incredible now. After I blew up some old Technics speakers before it was rebuilt. I aughta put up a vid of it... Well good luck with your system, dude! Nice to know that old beauty has a competent owner.
Oh, so you know what they weigh then... never mind. I have no idea how you shipped it without bending the switches? I think short of a pallet, no shipper would manage to handle it with the respect it deserves. I think I just answered my own question. You know what makes me ill? My old roommate picked up an SX-5590 for $40, and NOTHING AT ALL was wrong with it. It's the same exact thing, same wattage and in black but with an international voltage inverter built into the back of it. Not unheard of, but 50x more rare than the 1250's. Black. It made my head spin. He said he ripped the lining out of his pocket trying to pay him for it. Couldn't get his money out fast enough.
DAMN! Thats the Euro version of the 1250! I would have shot the room mate personally... Yea they weigh a freaking ton. I packaged mine in a large box with 2" clearance on all surfaces and filled the gap with packing peanuts, then put that in another box with a 1 inch layer of Styrofoam between. So it was also the size that jacked up the price. I got it back in a television box with that form fitting crap foam.... that pissed me off. But, it was totally fine. Next up for my system is to rebuild alll four pairs of speakers, (3 Technics, 1 no name 4 ways with a 12" woofer; Dayton drivers from parts express are pretty good) and my two Phase Linear 400s. Then I'll have an entire wall of big, fat, pure tone. I have a Pioneer 15 band graphic EQ for the system as well, and a few Pioneer reel decks. Find you a reputable restorer on eBay, pack it real well and insure it. Fortunately if you do bend a switch they bend back no problem.
+DRE CALLAHAN (80sBABYDRE) That all depends on your labor cost. Materials cost about $700 to do the attic, walls, including the insulation and wiring changes. It should have been the first thing I did prior to moving into it. It made a huge difference in space, year-round comfort, and sound deadening.
@@thecoolclips1 So far, it's great! The plastic was a bad idea, but no adverse affects on the roof from the insulation. Everything's still dry, none of the shingles have curled, and the roof spends about 6-8 hours a day in the sun because of tree cover across the street and from a neighbor's yard.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
As a new homeowner with an unfinished garage, you are my new god. Thanks for this and the other videos. I'm insulating my garage next month! THANK YOU!
Caffeine running amuck! Mayday he’s gonna crash! You did a real good job insulating and boarding the joint up. You have overhead storage and it should be quieter inside. Better in winter and summer. Get that a/c working and you’re good to go! Looks better in there now. Enjoyed the disco ball gag near the end!
WOW - you move fast! Great job - fast yet clear! Thanks for the share.
cool . great way to condense the video And get as much detail in . it sure looks neat . thanks for your time and sharing .
Good job and great ending! You should be nice and warm right now!
cant wait to see part two.... it's finished. good job
I just released part 4! lol. 7 years later. Now that the front of the garage is finished, the rest of it is getting insulated and sheeted. Probably be part 5. The workbench wall sucks because it's attached to the studs. It's gonna be good times.
Wow, good job. It's dizzying the amount of work ... I can tell! Love the disco ball ....
I bet this made a huge difference whilst working in the workshop. Well done!
I really enjoyed this video.and the best part is doing everything by yourself. makes you appreciate it more. great job.
I bet that made a huge difference in heating or cooling .
God bless
Wyr
6:02 NICE! You know I've got to love that! Using the conduit pipe is smart too!
briansmobile1 Thanks man! I used the conduit pipe so that I can change what... well... you know why. Accessibility. My 240V outlet might get moved, or I may add another 240V circuit for a plasma cutter/TIG welder. It's so much easier to fish it through the conduit. Who knows... maybe if I don't move the outlet, it may become RJ-45/R6 coax? The possibilities are endless... but at least the wall panel doesn't have to move. I think the South wall might get conduit for everything, because that's where all the important stuff would go. Always great to hear from you Brian!
I want to be like this man when I grow up.
nice work, love the final product
Hands down, one of the most entertaining DIYs I have ever watched!
Congrats on partnership jafro! Your shop is starting to come together nicely
Love what you did to the place. keeps you from the cold while working.
Would glue styrofoam plates in the door for a bitt extra.
I have to do it with a rental brick garage box, and a little place where i can putt my bike.
Greets JD
Awesome great work! LOL the 80s mirrors ball!
I know this is late, but better late than never, congratulations on the RUclips Partnership.
Thanks for sharing your videos, it is really helping with my car I am slow-but-surely- putting together.
Nice, lots of good ideas.....
You should take us on a toor of your garage and show us some of your storage, workbench, tool box, etc.
The Disco ball is definitely the finishing touch, a sign of great taste.. LOL
BTW - I'd gladly live in your garage now!! :-))) "Stand by to repel boarders" Im coming over.... ha ha
Great video! Really enjoyed all the camera angles...lots of time invested in garage makeover and shooting and editing the video. nice work!
Its difficult to stop production to paint. With gloss white ,light reflection increases big time. I used foil bubble wrap where you use black material. It really helps w/ heating and cooling. Nice tight joints on walls.
Yeah, but remove it. This is one of my top 5 videos (?why?) and I may take this video down. Don't use non-breathable materials. I kept a close eye on this, and for context I have an 11 year old non-leaky roof. It took 8-9 years before signs showed up, but they showed up. Mold will grow eventually. All it takes is just takes the right set of conditions if you use plastic, and apparently over just this past summer and winter, I had the right set of conditions. It's as if it rained for 7 months here. We got well over twice our annual rainfall-just during the summer, and it cancelled nearly every racing event. The wet summer caused a mold explosion across the east coast and Appalachia. Then over the winter, we had 6 big snow storms to keep the air nice and wet during each thaw. That roof was under a foot of snow for several weeks. It froze and thawed a few times. Humidity will condense on the inside of the plastic once the indoor/outdoor temperatures are at extremes, and that's enough to trigger spores that are already in the air to root. Someone posted a warning about this in my comments 3 years after I posted this video. I initially freaked out, gave a thorough inspection, no problems, cut vents into the plastic (in vain) to help it breathe and things were fine for years. I remained a skeptic. The structure would mold eventually with or without the insulation and plastic if left neglected. So I didn't remove the video. But like I said, all it takes is the right set of conditions. Plastic non-breathable materials are the perfect catalyst to cause moisture, and the insulation touching it accelerates it. It's because Kraft backing on the insulation is practically a freshly plowed and fertilized field as far as mold spores are concerned. I have an ozone generator that I bought because of a car purchase that sat in the woods under a cover for a decade. It will do the same thing for interior spaces once all this stuff comes out. It just started, but the 6 snow and ice storms and my use of plastic is why it's a problem now.
My god, i think he can build a house too! Amazing workmanship!
Thoroughly enjoyed the vid =couldn't stop watching, thanks
I always look forward to your videos bud! And congrats on the partnership, I got mine right about the same time.
Dude you're my hero. Eyeballing it..... wtf man lolz! Congratz on the partnership though. You post vids cuz you enjoy doing it and you make some extra dough while doing so. Win
You made your garage great again
Dude, you are my hero!
lol Luv the disco ball ending !
5:36 to 5:39 was my favorite morsel. Disco ball a great touch. Now you need to install a pole.
i see a 4g63 cylinder head!!! WOOT that was the best part. 2.31
Excellent!
Really helpful. Great video. Thanks for uploading this.
Congrats on RUclips Partnership !! :)
Fho sho, fho sho..you be gettin that fho sho! Good times man, I like :D
gotta love the disco ball
gratz on the partnership keep the awesome vids up :)
Nice work. What's the purpose of the black plastic in the roof? The craft paper provides a vapor barrier. The plastic might trap moisture between the two layers. It would also make it difficult to isolate a leak in the roof.
Now I'd paint it white using cheap ceiling paint. That will really make things easier to see with a smaller amount of light.
I put it up there just to hold the insulation in place, really... After I put the insulation up it began to sag and fall over time. Staples wouldn't hold it. All it does is hold the insulation up. I didn't have another purpose for it. If I ever see water running down a garage wall, I have no aversion to cutting it out. As of right now, it's a 7 year old roof, and everything in the garage since I've owned it has been dry as a bone, rain or shine. I lucked out and got a good garage with my house. :)
***** It seems that the plastic layer has been up at least two winters. If you have occasion to look behind the plastic, you should watch for mold on the paper facing. This would be caused by water condensing between the plastic and the paper layers in the winter months. Check out some material on the 'net about double vapor barriers. I suspect that you have little to worry about as long as the plastic doesn't rip.
Jim Babcock I did what you suggested. No problems. I didn't see any evidence of moisture on the Kraft paper. I can see how if the roof leaks it would have a problem, but there's a ridge vent that goes the full length of the roof, and on the inside, the plastic is open at the top so it can breathe.
On the other side of the insulation is bare wood... so technically there's just one barrier, and it isn't sealed a foot from the ridge vent, nor down at the eaves.
great work
Nice work
Wow, it only took him like 10 minutes to do all that, I want whatever he is drinking in the mornings...
This is great stuff!
Great work!
good job
great video
Thank you, very helpful.
excellent work!! I'm looking into turning my garage into a gym and was wondering what I would be looking at cost wise in all.. only thing is once took out all the garbage, etc the cement floor was all cracked up so I'm really stressing from scratch..
Congrats Jafro!
I like ur style.
быстрый парень и делает все хорошо!
I am about at the same point you left off in this video. I am curious to how you "finish" out the garage!
Thank you !👍👍👍👍👍
I miss having a garage.
I was going to say "Can heat that place with a candle now!" but sounds like cooling is more of a problem to deal with in your neck of the woods.
Were you 45 cutting the corner pieces?
Watching you lay out all the cut-outs for the roof studs and trusses was making me twitch. You're a much more thorough man than me, my friend! Stuff like that drives me crazy! Even when I occasionally get it right.
We got snow TODAY where I live. No foolin'. End of March. How 'bout them Apples?
It is MUCH easier to do both. My old-skool Citation AC unit bit the big one, and I bought a used window unit heat pump for $150 on Craigslist. It can easily keep the whole garage an even temperature year-round for about $60 a month. Made a HUGE difference. I still need to finish that one wall. :P
...and yes... I did cut 45°s. It's my garage, not someone else's! xD
***** Dude, I'm in Maine. The snowbanks won't be gone until May. Hell, they're saying this week we're getting a snowstorm WITH hurricane force winds. Good times. Cry me a river about your end of March snow. We'll get another plowable storm at the end of April, sure as anything.
I wasn't busting on the 45s, I'd just never seen it done that way. Thought there might have been some really nifty reason. :)
Great skill!
You get a like just for the disc ball
Very, very cool !
Would a *duct* have made that small exhaust fan more efficient? I'm surprised you didn't also insulate and vapor barrier the _overhead_ door. Thin, flimsy, air gaps, and 1 thickness of plexiglass for windows (that could be reduced to one single).
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Oh, I'ma b replacing that door. Fer real. That doe has got to go!
That's great work man!
Agree about comment about plastic I made the same mistake in a crawl space, put up rolled insulation then plastic huge pain in the ass trapped moisture; caused mold .I tore all plastic down.
Chip board or glued fiber board different grades and so on, I still don’t like it I know everyone uses it; the main reason is cheaper to use.
The job looked good nice warm garage now!
awesome.
you are the man!
nice job man
something like 10,000 calories burned in a day.. good workout buddy! and good job!
well done...
Great Vid. I wish it was a tad bit slower.lol
Parabéns !!!
Hello. Would you share why RUclips demonetized this video. Btw I like your content especially the automotive videos. Subbed. Thank you.
It was demonetized because there's a 1-second scene of a product purchased off the shelf at my local hardware store that uses the SPANISH WORD FOR BLACK to describe what color the plastic is.
I wish I was kidding.
@@Jafromobile I did notice that.
The true meaning of do work son!
I have heard that insulating a roof like you did in this video will bake the shingles and they won't last. Have you noticed any issues with your shingles since this video?
Wont that plastic sheet trap in all the moisture?
No, I didn't make it airtight. It's open on the top and bottom, and I have a vented crown. It's also open to the garage below. it receives plenty of airflow from the sag. I don't have any moisture issues in this structure. The roof doesn't leak and none of the OSB is water damaged. I did think about cutting some flaps in it, though. It's really just there for structural reasons so gravity doesn't win.
Overhead rolled up air and electric cord would be nice.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP First scene, top right corner. I got you homey!
Why did you insulate the outside roof instead of the ceiling above the lights?
I love men with skills.
What's up with the logo you painted on the wall and covered? Second video I've seen do that when remodeling a garage.
+Jason Tetterton It's fun to leave surprises behind for other people who may someday chose to remodel. It's like an easter egg. I've encountered other people's work before. It's almost like vandalism, except that you left the space better than you found it.
+Jafromobile Good thinking!
what kind if wood did u use? it kind of looks like OSB
if you can work that fast, I want to hire you...lol
what brand/model is your comptressor, it seem to be a nice unit. i'm lookink for something compact like this for my own shop, thanks in advance
It's "terrible" brand. No really, it's been a decent compressor, but I wore this thing out. It took me 6 years, and it's done. I threw too many jobs at it that were bigger than my reserve. The regulator assembly leaks constantly now. I can't find parts for it to fix it and if I can't, it's upgrade time.
My recommendation is a two-stage Ingersoll Rand unit because it's the last one you'll ever buy, but if you have to go on the cheap like I did and snag a Harbor Freight 240V 40+ gallon unit, just have the expectation to replace it from time to time. My mom had bad luck buying 3 different models from them that were either missing pieces or defective straight out of the box. My experience was different, but its a unit for a weekend warrior, not a daily workhorse.
***** thanks alot for your time to reply to me,
i don't expect to use it everyday, but still need a 10to 15 cfm unit that if possible would fit under my bench,so far the only one i've seen were ingersoll rand and rolair wheelbarow unit but they are in the 1100 to 1400 CAD
Well, mine was $450 + BYO plug. Wiring it in cost me another $150 for the circuit, outlet and plug. If I bought another compressor like it to replace it after 6 years (versus a proprietary $5 gasket that's unavailable), suddenly I'm getting close to that range. 6 more years and I'll be deep into that price range. If it were an IR, I could just buy the $5 gasket or any other service part that it ever needed to easily fix it myself.
You probably need a horizontal tank. This compressor I have is almost 5 feet tall, so you would need an uncomfortably tall workbench. It's also really loud. Several of my friends own compressors you can barely hear running. I want one of those next go-round because of what that noise does to my audio tracks (and my ears).
thanks, that is really convincing me, in your video it was lookink like it was only 3 feet hign and that woud had been perfect. being in canada, i pay 20% more at harbor freight for the exchange rate while it stay the same for a nice rolair or ir wheelbarrow that would deliver between 11-17 cfm
*****
Does the osb wall can take heavy mounting? I mean to mount heavy shelf.?
Галым Бердыкулов I still go for the studs for shelving, but peg boards, lighting, electrical outlets, compressor line piping and hanging auto parts, yes, works beautifully. Works a whole lot better for that kind of stuff than you can ever get away with using sheetrock.
***** one more. )) why studs not screw? Studs hold heavy stuff better than screw? Or because of texture of OSB, studs are preferable?
Галым Бердыкулов There may be an error in translation... Studs are the vertical wooden beams that the walls are framed with. It sounds like you're referring to nails, which you drive with a hammer. I used screws on everything I hung from the studs. 28 of them on each 4'x8' panel. It might hold a heavy shelf, but I still center the mounting points for the shelves on the studs behind the panels.
hey jafro you going to do / have more garage modification vids in the near future? I don't why but I enjoy these vids as much as the DSM vids lol.
nice!
Contratado!
That plastic will create mold.
I can confirm this. I've kept an eye on it and it's been fine for the past 8 years. But 2018 brought us 4 major hurricanes multiple record setting rainfall, and twice this winter we got deep snow and ice. The vent fan box fan thing isn't hurricane proof. Those storms seems to also have taken a toll on my roof because I have a water stain, and mold after the snow and ice accumulations thawed. I've kept the rest of it pretty dry and ventilated because of comments I received back when I uploaded this. I cut vents in the plastic to let the paper breathe. We had a few warm days recently that left me working in my garage and I spotted the bloom on the paper backing on the side by the vent. But because I found SOME of it, it's all coming down for inspection and remediation. I've been able to keep it dry over the years, but once I had a water problem with this spring thaw, it made it happen really fast. It hasn't made it very far, The water got in because of the garage door (that I ended up replacing in the next "garage mod" video), and the vent fan. Storm winds would create a cross-draft leaking through the door and suck water in the attic vent. I've fixed the door, but it was an absolutely stupid problem to have.
I'm out there all the time, and you posted this the minute I found it.
Молодец мужик
You never took a break must be a mexician
Hi everyone by any chance anyone knows what is the brand of the air compressor shown in the video? bought one like this a while back and i love it but a previous owner removed all the decals so i know nothing about it, not even the size, no specs at all, any info will be much appreciated
and he did all that work just to hang the disco ball
I'm dead I lost 10 minutes and have been laughing for at least 3 at the comments and that video ending. Trololololooolllllol
I'm at the point of osb or Sheetrock for my shop never thought of using osb but I've seen more n more people using it? Benefits versus one over the other?
depending on how you use the garadge osb is all around a better choice due to durability and the fact you can hang heavy weight items from the wall without finding a stud.
What was the total cost, I didn't see that anywhere???? sorry if it was posted or commented on earlier, I just don't see it
Pussylipshiz 19/32 OSB is currently $13 a sheet. The cost for the R19 insulation beneath each of those panels is $17.51 per sheet. The total in today prices for the walls is $30 for every 4 feet of wall, plus whatever fasteners you choose to use.
Cool, thanks for breaking that down for me, I can get an accurate price on my project....
When I bought my last house, my builder warned me that the attic space over the garage wasn't load rated for storage! Yikes! So before anyone decides to deck the space over their garage, better find out what the trusses can support. If you put hundreds of pounds of crap in the garage attic without proper load-rated trusswork, you could pull your roof down! Not the result you want. For electrical work, there are good books out there with all the codes explained in plain English. If you are not code savvy, it could cost you a lot more than a fine. You could burn your place down.
Wow do work or go home but your home sooooo.... But whats up with those spray cans lol @ 1:22
really cool stuff.
Just a recommendation if you are doing this for others too with all the comments asking for hire...learn a little more about electrical, lots of the stuff you did would never pass NEC if the NEC is anywhere close to as strict as Canadian electrical code. Could come back to bite you in the ass.
or better yet just leave it to an electrician.
NOTE, I'm only saying this if the american code is as bad as up here in Canada. Electrical is taken very serious here, even if you're licensed doing work you can get screwed its happened to my co workers. $15 000 fine just for not having a permit (and for some reason they really look into it)
Otherwise really cool stuff. Definitely got some good ideas for my garage.
The Canadian electrical codes are ridiculous. It's more of a money making racket than any thing.
Aint that a vintage pioneer receiver under your bench? Those are worth a lot on eBay. Kinda sad to see it in a shop environment.
It had a bulb-fuse problem that took it out of commission after repairing it 8 separate times. That thing is responsible for the deaths of 8 pairs of speakers now including Cerwin Vega AT-12's, 3 sets of Altec Lansing Series 7s, 4 Yamaha I-have-no-idea what models, and 2 sets of generic '90's-era component speakers. It's never seen more than 2/3 of the dial, and that was painful. It just simply shreds speakers. There's a good reason they're valuable because nothing's louder. But if you know anything about what these things weigh, you pay a loss to sell them. This one's getting re-vitalized as soon as I can find a pair of Klipsch Cornwalls in decent shape. Until then I can do without the every-6-month trip to the electronics repair shop. I'm using Adcom equipment in its place right now.
Yikes! Sounds like that unit is ready for a complete overhaul. I have a SX-1250 that I bought from a second owner WORN OUT for $400, sent it to Detroit from Idaho for a complete restore and customizing job. That alone cost around $900 with shipping. It looks and sounds incredible now. After I blew up some old Technics speakers before it was rebuilt. I aughta put up a vid of it... Well good luck with your system, dude! Nice to know that old beauty has a competent owner.
Oh, so you know what they weigh then... never mind. I have no idea how you shipped it without bending the switches? I think short of a pallet, no shipper would manage to handle it with the respect it deserves. I think I just answered my own question.
You know what makes me ill? My old roommate picked up an SX-5590 for $40, and NOTHING AT ALL was wrong with it. It's the same exact thing, same wattage and in black but with an international voltage inverter built into the back of it. Not unheard of, but 50x more rare than the 1250's. Black. It made my head spin. He said he ripped the lining out of his pocket trying to pay him for it. Couldn't get his money out fast enough.
DAMN! Thats the Euro version of the 1250! I would have shot the room mate personally... Yea they weigh a freaking ton. I packaged mine in a large box with 2" clearance on all surfaces and filled the gap with packing peanuts, then put that in another box with a 1 inch layer of Styrofoam between. So it was also the size that jacked up the price. I got it back in a television box with that form fitting crap foam.... that pissed me off. But, it was totally fine. Next up for my system is to rebuild alll four pairs of speakers, (3 Technics, 1 no name 4 ways with a 12" woofer; Dayton drivers from parts express are pretty good) and my two Phase Linear 400s. Then I'll have an entire wall of big, fat, pure tone. I have a Pioneer 15 band graphic EQ for the system as well, and a few Pioneer reel decks. Find you a reputable restorer on eBay, pack it real well and insure it. Fortunately if you do bend a switch they bend back no problem.
Wouldn't it have been easier to hang the disco ball in another already finished room? would have saved some time.
Dude, slow down on that switch and outlet part!!! I cannot f'ing figure that out in my garage.
wow it really didn't look like you unloaded that much osb from your truck at the beginning...
what would a job like this cost??
+DRE CALLAHAN (80sBABYDRE) That all depends on your labor cost. Materials cost about $700 to do the attic, walls, including the insulation and wiring changes. It should have been the first thing I did prior to moving into it. It made a huge difference in space, year-round comfort, and sound deadening.
What kind of roof did you have?
2 layers of asphalt shingles over plywood. 35° slope.
@@Jafromobile how did the shingles do with the insulation directly under the decking?
@@thecoolclips1 So far, it's great! The plastic was a bad idea, but no adverse affects on the roof from the insulation. Everything's still dry, none of the shingles have curled, and the roof spends about 6-8 hours a day in the sun because of tree cover across the street and from a neighbor's yard.
Are you for hire !!