How to Repair a Ding on the Nose of Varuna Surfboards

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  • Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
  • How to repair a ding to the nose of your Varuna.
    As you can see it’s going to take a lot to damage these boards but if it does happen here’s the simple way to fix it.
    Here’s what you need to complete the repair.
    List of items on screen with titles on them not in capitals.
    EPOXY RESIN LEFT
    HARDENER RIGHT
    CAB-O-SIL LINK - NOT FULLY NECESSARY BUT MAKES THE RESIN THICKER AND STRONGER SO THAT IT’S NOT AS RUNNY
    MASKING TAPE
    WOODEN STICK
    HARD SANDING PAD
    BRUSH TO CLEAN UP THE DUST
    Inspect your damaged area and remove any damaged area of wood.
    Here you can see the glue and layers of balsa.
    Sand back the damaged area using 80 grit with a hard pad on the sander, making sure to go 5cm over into undamaged fibreglass so that when you repair the board you can bond to this area firmly. Sand lightly, making sure not to take all the glass off, except for the immediate damaged area.
    Tip: To match the colour of the resin more closely to the balsa wood board, sand some wood dust into the resin mix.
    Use tape to create a base for the resin to help form the tip of your surfboard.
    Mix your resin with 2 parts resin and 1 part hardener with a pinch of cab-o-sil.
    Pour the resin into the nose area that you’ve created. And wait 24 hours to set it fully.
    Sand back the sharp edges to sculpt your new nose.
    Now it is ready for the layers of fibreglass cloth.
    Tape here to mark your area.
    Place your first piece of 6oz cloth on the bottom of the nose, cut small incisions on the sides so that you can wrap the cloth around the rail.
    Fold the cloth back.
    Brush epoxy resin onto the area so that it sticks the fibreglass down.
    Then brush the resin onto the glass on both sides, wrapping the resin around.
    Cut your piece of cloth for the top of the nose and repeat the process.
    Once it is dry you can trim the excess cloth.
    Sand it back with 120 grit which will prepare the area for the filler coat.
    Remove the tape and cut the excess cloth off.
    Use a file so that you don’t oversand the area. This prepares the area by roughing it up so your next coat sticks well.
    Make sure that everything is bound to the board and that all areas are nice and smooth but not shiny. If they are shiny then they will need to be roughed more.
    Brush the filler coat on. This is the same resin you would have used previously. It takes out any imperfections and gives you the best result.
    Use 150 grit to sand back the filler. Run your sandpaper over the nose by hand to shape the final curves of the rail and nose.
    Finish with a clear coat for the best finish.
    Final step is a wet sandpaper with 400-600 grit to create the final smooth touch.

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