Excellent video! I've been knitting forover 50 years and still learned a lot from this video. I especially appreciated the correlation between the British "ply" designation and the CYCA classification. The CYCA system is , IMHO, the best thing to happen to knitting, but the yarnsub website (which I didn't know about until now) is a fabulous resource to help with those yarns that are in the "gray areas". Thanks for a fabulous video.
I found this so interesting and helpful. As a UK viewer it was useful to be able to understand the different descriptions for the various yarn types. Thank you for all your hard work putting this together.
I used to store my yarn by color because it was so pretty to look at but when it came to using it I never found I had in my stash what I needed. Until I resorted it into yarn weights. What a difference. Now I can easily see what I have for the types of projects I'm planning. Thanks for the Yarn Sub tip....that's going to be really handy!
Thank you for another fantastic video! I learned so much today and understand the different yarns better than I did before! Making swatches isn't so bad after all if you can avoid making creative mistakes by buying the wrong weight of yarn. This one is definitely a keeper for future reference!
I have been stashbusting all this year, and I love mixing many yarns in sox or hats or afghans and adjusting the needle sizes to compensate for the different gauge output. I don't care if the sox are a bit funky, or anything for that matter I try to make up for it with beautiful color layout and unusual stitchery. Sometimes I dye some of my stash to make colors that are useable with other stash. Its so fun. Your explanation here are wonderful, especially the ply info. What I noticed about using so many yarns together in the same sitting is how much I dislike some of the yarns, they were too thready or too loose ply or too tight, etc. I usually buy whatever is on sale and now I am thinking about the drape, the visibility of the stitch pattern, the ability or not to hold a shape. I am always impressed at the great preparation and organization you plan for making such thorough presentations. Thank you so much for helping me to know what I am doing instead of just guessing, like the old days. You are a delight!
Thank you Christine! As always, very informative and well presented. This helps me a lot as I am a long time crocheter and knitter, but fairly new “yarn snob” and garment knitter. Shawls and blankets are easy since gauge isn’t critical. But sweaters are my new thing and this will help a lot!
A nasty word , that gauge word, but so necessary . I just really dislike doing a swatch. I have a hard time because once I get going my tension will loosen up. I am moving to just plain wool more now. I still use the pretty yarns for socks but for future sweaters I will use the pure wool. I do like the Regia , Opal, and Cascade Heritage Prints for socks. They are warm and durable yarns. You have explained it sooo much better than looking at a darn book. I hope you are getting Spring. Close to 80 coming this weekend here in the heart of Missouri! Thanks Kris. A wealth of info as usual. Cheryl
Enjoyed your class on yarn weights. It is good to do a refresher like this to remind us when knitting of the most different aspects to consider when changing the yarn. You covered it good. I think wraps is important and am glad you covered it. I have a lot of stash and classic patterns that I seem to mess with. This is good to help with better results. Also, that swatch gauge again is really important. Thanks again.
Great topic. This can be a confusing subject, so thank you for the information. I loved the old format, but I like the new format too. I'll be watching all of your podcasts. Thank you, take care
This is a wonderful video! Thank you for sharing. I am just learning to make garments and I am using substitute yarn instead of the Yarns called for in the pattern. I just pick what I think is pretty. I have been soooo lucky!
I like the numbering system. I'm old so I remember when yarn was sold by ply. I use the numbering system as a guide and you are right about swatching even though I don't always do it and sometimes I live to regret it. I always say that I'm going to swatch but that goes about as well as when I decide to diet. My intentions are good but .....well....
Hi Kristine! The research and information you provide is always thorough, well-thought and written. I really liked the section regarding the importance of knitting a gauge swatch. The pictures of the swatches says it all! Also the yarnsub.com site/reference was excellent. Thanks, always, for providing such useful information.
I have separated my yarn stash by weight. I use the 50g weight to determine if the yarn is lace, sport, dk, worsted and bulky. It’s easy to put colors together when starting s project. I have finally learned to value swatching...so, I will knit a gauge swatch. The information about weight was an eye opener and now I can see the value in washing the swatch. No promises there unless I’m making a sweater...such a time investment - it’s worth it to wash and block the swatch. Thank you for a very informative video.
Yours is the most comprehensive and informative explanation I have seen yet! I’ve used the yarn sub site with good success. Numbering is a good beginning but swatching, washing, drying that swatch and hanging it for stretch is the only way I have found to get true stitches per inch. I use WPI for my Handspun, but never thought to test commercial yarn with it...duhhh. Thanks for a great class!
Great video. It pulls together the references to yarn that have been confusing me since I started to get more serious about knitting. I really appreciate the spreadsheet. I had one of my own, but you have more categorizes including a ballpark for length. Thank you for sharing the spreadsheet. It is the way I tend to think.
Wow, what a great video. I thought I had a good understanding of yarn weights before watching this video, but I learned so many new things. I always enjoy the content, and I appreciate you the time and research you put into this.
This was a terrific topic! So glad you demystified this topic! Now to remember it all! So helpful! I didn't know you had an test shop. Will have to check it out! Hope spring has made it's way to you. Be well!
Wow, you just blew me away. This is the information that I have been looking for since I restarted knitting. Thanks this was very helpful. I can't wait to watch your other videos.
Hello! What a great topic. I thought I would share my experiences of how I learned this lesson. I chose a very simple sweater jacket with a hood that had raglan style sleeves. The pattern called for worsted weight yarn and I chose a very beautiful Mad Tosh yarn. My gauge was right on. I knit for close to 6 months to complete the sweater and it looked perfect. When I wore it it drooped and sagged and never looked good on. The yarn was so heavy and the construction was all wrong for the yarn. I had a great pattern, a lovely yarn and my gaurge was perfect. I love to knit socks and prefer a beefy fingering weight yarn. I learned to always check the length of my fingering yarn choices. A 100 gram ball can have such different lengths and I know I prefer a yarn that has less than 400 yards. It provides me with a sturdier sock and a fabric that is denser. I enjoyed this informative podcast and I love your show's new look. Warmly, Holly
Hi Holly -- oh no, I had to cover my eyes because I knew what was coming, lol! I think we've all learned that lesson one way or another. I agree about the fingering weight yarns. I also prefer the ones with 400 yards or less per 100 grams. Thanks so much for watching and sharing your experience. XO
I love the craft yarn councils labeling system. Only problem I see with it is that not everyone uses them. So I go to a lys and I struggle if I'm looking for anything besides fingering weight yarn. Maybe one thing I would add to the yarn councils labeling system is yards/g ranges for the different weights. Because often, especially indie dyers, will only put yds/g on the label along with their cutesy base name which may or may not be associated with a weight. I know the fingering weight yarn is about 400yds/100g so I can spot those pretty easily. And I think dk is usually around 200yds/100g and worsted is about 100yrd/100g (if I remember right). What throws me is aran weight yarn! Some say it's about the same as worsted....but others say its thicker or thinner than worsted. So I wont pick a pattern if it says aran.
Thank you for clearing up some of the mysteries of yarn! Missed you whilst you had your break. Welcome back - love the top you are wearing in this video. Jane xx
You not only brought clarity into the confusing weight numbers, but you also gave nifty background information, e.g. where does that name come from. I really like that! Thank you!
Dr. Kelly, enjoyed the program and new format today. Your videos contain information that is really important when you are investing in yarn for a project. I really enjoyed the research you showed on the same type of yarn and how they work up differently. Thank you for all your research.
Thank you for another info packed session..even viewer questions were informative. Thanks for showcasing some crocheted items during this presentation. Always enjoy your tutorials!
Another great video! I immediately checked out the YarnSub site and it is so useful! The had some great tips for things other than yarn substitution as well. Thanks!
Love the new format and thank you so much for this great video. I consider myself an advanced beginner or medium knitter and think this is great info to add to my reference library.
Hi Kristine .. Thank you for a very informative and useful video. I’m in Australia and as you know, our yarns are quite different to yours so when trying to work out what to use for some of the great patterns available, it can take a fair bit of time trying to find a suitable substitute. I’m going to save your spreadsheet as a reference. Again, thank you very much. Cheers, Dorothy
Hi Dorothy -- thanks so much for watching. I can't say I'm an expert at Australian yarns, but I tried to include the "ply" labels as much as possible, so hope that helps. :)
Like the new video format. And thanks so much for the spreadsheet, I always have trouble finding the “doubled” gauges for various weights so that is very helpful to have.
Very informative podcast. With a little effort, it isn't hard to substitute yarn with great results. Thank you so much for mentioning gauge swatches over and over. I always sound like a broken record when it comes to this subject. I took a class with Sally Melville and she speaks about wpi and not only making swatches but processing those swatches to get true gauge. I couldn't find the yarn the pattern called for so I bought two different brands of the same weight of yarn. The wpi weren't coming out the same. I did a swatch of both. Boy oh boy, was I glad I did. One was perfect the other would have stretched enough for the sweater to hang to the knees when worn. Both were the same weight and same fiber content. Swatches processed as the finished garment are so important.
Hello -- thank you. Yes, I agree (but I can't say that I'm the best role model because I don't always swatch, lol!). But at least we know that's what we SHOULD be doing. :)
I've used the yarn sub site before and had decent luck with it, but find that swatching is really the only way to know. If you can figure out your stitches per inch and then use the measurements from your pattern, you should be able to make it work. Thanks for your informative podcast!
🎉YAY! YOUR BACK!🎉 I've been driving my family crazy by checking multiple times a day, for two weeks, to see if you had posted. Lol. I'm a new viewer, a friend recommended you, and i love your videos. They are very informative and totally fun. ☺
As usual, a very informative video & I appreciate it. I especially like knowing about the website YarnSub. I know I will consult this site often. Thanks, Kristine for all your research.
I'm actually pretty new to the swatch/gauge/test part of knitting and crocheting, because up until a year ago, I was working from no-dye-lot acrylic yarn, making granny square throws and simple stitch patterned throws, so running out of yarn wasn't a concern. I'm now starting to knit garments, and use more natural fibers, and dyed fiber, so I'm working on remembering to check all these things. This is going to be bookmarked in my knitting folder.
Thank you for a very informative video, this will be my go to tutorial for yarns in the future. I like the new format and look forward for your other videos.
I recently stumbled upon the yarn-substition page (like yesterday or the day before) and think it's great. Though my process is usually: Buy yarn that I like, preferably on sale and then swatch to get the fabric I want (often a bit tighter than recommended) and then do math to the pattern numbers until they fit my gauge (then knit with constantly changing gauge and curse everything, but luckily the end result was fine).
I love all of the information you always provide in your videos. I just was wondering how much blocking your swatches would have changed the sizes of the swatch. I loved this video just like all of your others Christine, Thank you.
Hi Valerie -- thank you so much. That's a great question about blocking the swatches. I meant to mention that but forgot. I'm actually planning a follow-up video where I show these swatches after washing and blocking. I'm thinking about doing this for next week, but we'll see what I can get done. :)
Hi Kris, as usual, excellent job! I loved the Yarn Substitutions website. I have never heard of this site before. When are you heading up this way? We are finally starting to thaw out. Lake is changing every day but I think it will be May before the docks go in. Hope we get a chance to meet during your stay.
Thank you Kristine. You've answered many of my "Why did this happen?" questions. I just frogged a sock that was not wide enough. Two-ply sock yarn is different than my regular sock yarn. Didn't know you had an Etsy shop until today. Will visit.
I have started loom knitting. wanting to know how much yardage to use without buying to much extra yarn. What number of peg loom to use large round, long loom or infinity loom. Thank you for all the information. I watched 4 of your lessons this evening.
Hi, Dr. K. Great video. I like the idea of two shorter videos, keeping the tutorials separate. I loved hearing the origins of the the weight terms. I had always imagined knitters using their fingers to knit. Never thought it was simply how “fin grain” had morphed! And thanks for the heads up regarding yarnsub.com. I think that will be a big help. No more struggling with paper and pencil to figure out if 175 yds at 3.5 ounces is the same as...
Hi Kathryn -- that's great. There are some beautiful cardigan patterns in fingering weight yarn. I started a fingering weight sweater once but ...my progress was too slow so I frogged it. :)
It takes quite a while to complete fingering weight cardigans. I made a worsted weight sweater but it never got cold enough to wear it. Arizona didn't have a winter in 2017
When I substitute cotton for wool in a garment I use a looser gauge to get the drape I want and then figure the size to knit based on my new gauge.Many of the designers that I knit from use fingering wt. yarns for sweaters. I collect mainly fingering wt yarns. It is fun to combine different yarns together to produce your own yarn. I recently made a pullover with 3 different yarns with alpaca, wool and mohair and different colors. Many of the yarns are classified heavier because of how the yarn blooms after washing. If these yarns are knit in a tight gauge they will have no room to bloom.
Hi Dawn -- I'm a fingering weight yarn collector, too. :) You know, I've never tried knitting a sweater with it held double, but I find that idea very appealing. I love the idea of creating your own yarn look by doubling it. Thanks for the tip! Oh, and yes, regarding the yarn blooming, I am kicking myself because I meant to mention that. (I just added a comment about it to the information box.) I'm actually going to do a follow-up video on yarn blooming, maybe for next week. We'll see what I can get ready. :)
This was an EXCELLENT video!!!! May I put a link to this video on my channel to send viewers over to it? I think you explained it so clearly that it would be very helpful to beginner knitters and crocheters.
Thank you. I know my viewers are going to enjoy this. Many of them are beginners and I get a fair amount of questions about yarn weight. Your video will be a super help to them.
Yarnsub.com- a Great resource! Had never heard of it before. I usually go by the Yarn Councils categories, then check gauge. Another very informative podcast- Thank You!
I enjoyed the video and info. I could not print the excel sheet. For some reason it only prints “Yarn Weight Primer.clsx: Sheet 1” and none of the info😕
Hi Pamela -- hmmm, I'm not sure why you can't print it, so I'm not going to be very much help. Can you download it and then print from your computer? Hope you can get it to work.
Hi Susan -- thank you. For spinning, check with your local yarn shops, fiber guilds, or fiber festivals. Sometimes yarn shops also sell spinning supplies. Fiber guilds will often offer lessons. Same with fiber festivals. I think it is good to try out different spinning wheels to see which one you like best, and sometimes you can do that with these businesses/organizations. Good luck!
Wow this is great! Even experienced knitters like myself can use this! Looking forward to the new formats! I’m curious to know if you blocked the DK swatches. Yarns can change drastically once blocked, so just curious to know. Thanks 🙋🏻♀️
Hello -- thank you, and thanks for your comment. I am kicking myself because I meant to mention blocking. (I just added a comment about that to the information box.) I'm actually going to do a follow-up video on yarn blooming, maybe for next week. We'll see what I can get ready. :)
Kristine Kelly Thank you so much for replying! I do find your videos so informing & I just love learning! Looking forward to the “blooming” follow-up! Have a great week! Karyn
Hi Bonnie -- Great question, and I meant to mention Aran in the video but forgot. Aran actually refers to a knitting style originating in the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. (Think of the sweaters with all those intricate cable patterns.) People started using the name "Aran" for the yarn used in those sweaters. So in that context, Aran weight yarn is usually considered a heavy worsted weight yarn. XO
Kristine, informally, i taught for five years how to make the basic hat on a loom without any knowledge of weight or for that matter anything about yarn. When i had time, i would experiment by doing other things rather than a hat. Head bands, i call them ear warmers, interest me. This has become a hit and miss thing since one of the yarns was very soft but with lots of elasticity. With time, the band looses its shape and becomes very loose; does not hold hair in place. Would giving more tension to the yarn solve the problem? Thank you in advance for your answer...ic
That depends on the fibre content really. As she said in the video, some fibres are better than others. Though for elasticity, no natural fibres will be as good as elastic rubber. Stich patterns can help (ribbing is good!), and if your headband is made from wool (bamboo too, but bamboo stretches out so quickly that I wouldn't necessarily use it) washing it could work. Just soak it in water (if it's not also dirty, no detergent necessary) for a bit, squeeze out water by rolling it in a towel and let dry flat. (If you want to make more headbands, you could also look into using sock yarn, or similar fibres (nylon for resistance and shape keeping) or using knit in elastic, or elastic bands.)
This helps tons, I still have a question. I have a sweater pattern I want to make, but the yarn i really want to make it with is exactly half of every measurement except the amount per ball, which doesn't matter. My question is whether or not I can just double the stitch count? A swatch comes out as expected 56 instead of 28 stitches in 4", and the same with number of rows. There is no pattern within the fabric. Would this work? Also it's made in pieces and I've sewn plenty enough to know how to piece it together, without using the knit pattern 's instructions. My thinking brain says it will work, my emotional brain doubts it. Thoughts?
Hello -- I'm glad it was helpful. As for your question, it's a good one. It seems like it would work the way you envision it. I guess the only way to know for sure is to try it out. Another idea I had would be to hold the yarn double. Let me know what you decide and how it goes. XO
I had been a subscriber for a while on my personal account but wanted to subscribe from my farm/podcasting account also! As a scientist myself I love your Classroom videos! I have used them in my majors classes as good examples of using the scientific method! If you don't mine I want to share your video info on my next episode of my Diary of a Physicist Farmgal podcast this week. I think they are great resource
Thanks for this wonderful video Kristine! Very informative! I am used to the numbering system so I like it. And thanks so much for yarnsub.com. What an awesome resource! I do have one question. I always get confused about the term “Aran.” Does this term refer to a weight or a color? I’ve seen it referred to as both so I’m totally confused. Any clarification you can give me would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Hi Thea -- thank you so much. Great question, and I meant to mention Aran in the video but forgot. Aran actually refers to a knitting style originating in the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. (Think of the sweaters with all those intricate cable patterns.) People started using the name "Aran" for the yarn used in those sweaters. So in that context, Aran weight yarn is usually considered a heavy worsted weight yarn. XO
I was surpised you didn't mention aran weight yarn, Dr. Kelly! A friend and I disagree as to what an aran weight yarn actually is. She says aran is just a synonym for worsted. I think that aran means a slightly heavier worsted weight yarn.
Hello -- I know, I meant to but forgot. It's in the Excel file, though. :) Aran weight would be in the "medium" (#4) category, but most people consider it a heavy worsted weight. It's not quite bulky, though. Thanks for your comment and for watching. XO
Here is a book I recommend for you. I really think you would like it: Never Caught: The Washingtons' Relentless Pursuit of Their Runaway Slave, Ona Judge. by Erica Armstrong Dunbar (Author)
Excellent video! I've been knitting forover 50 years and still learned a lot from this video. I especially appreciated the correlation between the British "ply" designation and the CYCA classification. The CYCA system is , IMHO, the best thing to happen to knitting, but the yarnsub website (which I didn't know about until now) is a fabulous resource to help with those yarns that are in the "gray areas". Thanks for a fabulous video.
Thanks for compiling this information. One day I’ll make a gauge swatch and stop living dangerously and ripping out. 😆
Thanks for all the work you put in to these wonderful, informative podcasts. I really enjoy them.
I found this so interesting and helpful. As a UK viewer it was useful to be able to understand the different descriptions for the various yarn types. Thank you for all your hard work putting this together.
I used to store my yarn by color because it was so pretty to look at but when it came to using it I never found I had in my stash what I needed. Until I resorted it into yarn weights. What a difference. Now I can easily see what I have for the types of projects I'm planning. Thanks for the Yarn Sub tip....that's going to be really handy!
Love the new format. It is very concise and clear. As always the information is very practical.
Thank you for another fantastic video! I learned so much today and understand the different yarns better than I did before! Making swatches isn't so bad after all if you can avoid making creative mistakes by buying the wrong weight of yarn. This one is definitely a keeper for future reference!
I have been stashbusting all this year, and I love mixing many yarns in sox or hats or afghans and adjusting the needle sizes to compensate for the different gauge output. I don't care if the sox are a bit funky, or anything for that matter I try to make up for it with beautiful color layout and unusual stitchery. Sometimes I dye some of my stash to make colors that are useable with other stash. Its so fun. Your explanation here are wonderful, especially the ply info. What I noticed about using so many yarns together in the same sitting is how much I dislike some of the yarns, they were too thready or too loose ply or too tight, etc. I usually buy whatever is on sale and now I am thinking about the drape, the visibility of the stitch pattern, the ability or not to hold a shape. I am always impressed at the great preparation and organization you plan for making such thorough presentations. Thank you so much for helping me to know what I am doing instead of just guessing, like the old days. You are a delight!
Thank you Christine! As always, very informative and well presented. This helps me a lot as I am a long time crocheter and knitter, but fairly new “yarn snob” and garment knitter. Shawls and blankets are easy since gauge isn’t critical. But sweaters are my new thing and this will help a lot!
Hello
A nasty word , that gauge word, but so necessary . I just really dislike doing a swatch. I have a hard time because once I get going my tension will loosen up. I am moving to just plain wool more now. I still use the pretty yarns for socks but for future sweaters I will use the pure wool. I do like the Regia , Opal, and Cascade Heritage Prints for socks. They are warm and durable yarns. You have explained it sooo much better than looking at a darn book. I hope you are getting Spring. Close to 80 coming this weekend here in the heart of Missouri! Thanks Kris. A wealth of info as usual. Cheryl
Hi
Enjoyed your class on yarn weights. It is good to do a refresher like this to remind us when knitting of the most different aspects to consider when changing the yarn. You covered it good. I think wraps is important and am glad you covered it. I have a lot of stash and classic patterns that I seem to mess with. This is good to help with better results. Also, that swatch gauge again is really important. Thanks again.
Hi there
I love the new sparkly beginning. Perks me right up!
Great topic. This can be a confusing subject, so thank you for the information. I loved the old format, but I like the new format too. I'll be watching all of your podcasts. Thank you, take care
Hi there
How are you doing?
Hello Amazing Marsha💖💖💖💖
This is a wonderful video! Thank you for sharing. I am just learning to make garments and I am using substitute yarn instead of the Yarns called for in the pattern. I just pick what I think is pretty. I have been soooo lucky!
Hi
I like the numbering system. I'm old so I remember when yarn was sold by ply. I use the numbering system as a guide and you are right about swatching even though I don't always do it and sometimes I live to regret it. I always say that I'm going to swatch but that goes about as well as when I decide to diet. My intentions are good but .....well....
Hello -- I'm the same way, lol! :)
Hi Kristine! The research and information you provide is always thorough, well-thought and written. I really liked the section regarding the importance of knitting a gauge swatch. The pictures of the swatches says it all! Also the yarnsub.com site/reference was excellent. Thanks, always, for providing such useful information.
Love, love, love your podcast.....no matter what you are talking about. So very informative!!!! Blessings....Beverly
Hi there
I have separated my yarn stash by weight. I use the 50g weight to determine if the yarn is lace, sport, dk, worsted and bulky. It’s easy to put colors together when starting s project. I have finally learned to value swatching...so, I will knit a gauge swatch. The information about weight was an eye opener and now I can see the value in washing the swatch. No promises there unless I’m making a sweater...such a time investment - it’s worth it to wash and block the swatch. Thank you for a very informative video.
this is very informative. You explain things so well. Thanks for all you do and share.
Hi
Yours is the most comprehensive and informative explanation I have seen yet! I’ve used the yarn sub site with good success. Numbering is a good beginning but swatching, washing, drying that swatch and hanging it for stretch is the only way I have found to get true stitches per inch. I use WPI for my Handspun, but never thought to test commercial yarn with it...duhhh. Thanks for a great class!
Hello
Hello beautiful Angel ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks Kristin , Vary Informative Aleta Sneed
Hello cuties
How are you doing?
Very interesting. Thanks for your hard work investigating...
Love the new format! I was able to finish watching in one sitting! Great info which will definitely help my knitting and crochet!
Hello Amy
Hello pretty Amy ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Great video. It pulls together the references to yarn that have been confusing me since I started to get more serious about knitting. I really appreciate the spreadsheet. I had one of my own, but you have more categorizes including a ballpark for length. Thank you for sharing the spreadsheet. It is the way I tend to think.
Super interesting and informative! I always enjoy your podcasts.
You are good at teaching! Very glad to understand the "wpi" designation.
Wow, what a great video. I thought I had a good understanding of yarn weights before watching this video, but I learned so many new things. I always enjoy the content, and I appreciate you the time and research you put into this.
This was a terrific topic! So glad you demystified this topic! Now to remember it all! So helpful! I didn't know you had an test shop. Will have to check it out! Hope spring has made it's way to you. Be well!
Where have I been? I just discovered you and this is WONDERFUL! Thank you for the in-depth and informative article.
Hi Diana -- welcome, and thanks for joining me and watching my videos. XO
Wow, you just blew me away. This is the information that I have been looking for since I restarted knitting. Thanks this was very helpful. I can't wait to watch your other videos.
Hello! What a great topic. I thought I would share my experiences of how I learned this lesson. I chose a very simple sweater jacket with a hood that had raglan style sleeves. The pattern called for worsted weight yarn and I chose a very beautiful Mad Tosh yarn. My gauge was right on. I knit for close to 6 months to complete the sweater and it looked perfect. When I wore it it drooped and sagged and never looked good on. The yarn was so heavy and the construction was all wrong for the yarn. I had a great pattern, a lovely yarn and my gaurge was perfect.
I love to knit socks and prefer a beefy fingering weight yarn. I learned to always check the length of my fingering yarn choices. A 100 gram ball can have such different lengths and I know I prefer a yarn that has less than 400 yards. It provides me with a sturdier sock and a fabric that is denser.
I enjoyed this informative podcast and I love your show's new look. Warmly, Holly
Hi Holly -- oh no, I had to cover my eyes because I knew what was coming, lol! I think we've all learned that lesson one way or another. I agree about the fingering weight yarns. I also prefer the ones with 400 yards or less per 100 grams. Thanks so much for watching and sharing your experience. XO
This is such great information! I have always wished someone would do a video with this kind of info! Thanks so much.
Hello Becki
Hello beautiful Angel ❤️❤️❤️❤️
I LOVE LOVE LOVE your tutorials ! I always learn so much ! You do a great job !
Hello
Hello beautiful Liz how are you feeling💖💖💖💖
I love the craft yarn councils labeling system. Only problem I see with it is that not everyone uses them. So I go to a lys and I struggle if I'm looking for anything besides fingering weight yarn. Maybe one thing I would add to the yarn councils labeling system is yards/g ranges for the different weights. Because often, especially indie dyers, will only put yds/g on the label along with their cutesy base name which may or may not be associated with a weight. I know the fingering weight yarn is about 400yds/100g so I can spot those pretty easily. And I think dk is usually around 200yds/100g and worsted is about 100yrd/100g (if I remember right). What throws me is aran weight yarn! Some say it's about the same as worsted....but others say its thicker or thinner than worsted. So I wont pick a pattern if it says aran.
Hi Fallyn! Yes I think most people consider Aran weight yarn to be slightly thicker than worsted weight. 💙💙💙
In my quest to binge your fantastic channel I've made it to a topic I should have started with! This is so helpful. Thank you and God bless.
Thank you for clearing up some of the mysteries of yarn! Missed you whilst you had your break. Welcome back - love the top you are wearing in this video. Jane xx
Hi Jane -- thanks so much! XO
You not only brought clarity into the confusing weight numbers, but you also gave nifty background information, e.g. where does that name come from. I really like that! Thank you!
Dr. Kelly, enjoyed the program and new format today. Your videos contain information that is really important when you are investing in yarn for a project. I really enjoyed the research you showed on the same type of yarn and how they work up differently. Thank you for all your research.
Wow! Such valuable information! Thank you so much for all your hard work and thorough research.
Thank you for another info packed session..even viewer questions were informative. Thanks for showcasing some crocheted items during this presentation. Always enjoy your tutorials!
Another great video! I immediately checked out the YarnSub site and it is so useful! The had some great tips for things other than yarn substitution as well. Thanks!
Hello Rhonda
Love the new format and thank you so much for this great video. I consider myself an advanced beginner or medium knitter and think this is great info to add to my reference library.
Hi Kristine .. Thank you for a very informative and useful video. I’m in Australia and as you know, our yarns are quite different to yours so when trying to work out what to use for some of the great patterns available, it can take a fair bit of time trying to find a suitable substitute. I’m going to save your spreadsheet as a reference. Again, thank you very much. Cheers, Dorothy
Hi Dorothy -- thanks so much for watching. I can't say I'm an expert at Australian yarns, but I tried to include the "ply" labels as much as possible, so hope that helps. :)
Thank you so much, I really need this & the chart is very handy for me.
Hello cuties
That was a lot of great information! Thanks for taking the time and effort to do it!
Great video--very helpful for me and I'm many others needing education on yarn weights.
Thank you!
Like the new video format. And thanks so much for the spreadsheet, I always have trouble finding the “doubled” gauges for various weights so that is very helpful to have.
Very informative podcast. With a little effort, it isn't hard to substitute yarn with great results. Thank you so much for mentioning gauge swatches over and over. I always sound like a broken record when it comes to this subject. I took a class with Sally Melville and she speaks about wpi and not only making swatches but processing those swatches to get true gauge. I couldn't find the yarn the pattern called for so I bought two different brands of the same weight of yarn. The wpi weren't coming out the same. I did a swatch of both. Boy oh boy, was I glad I did. One was perfect the other would have stretched enough for the sweater to hang to the knees when worn. Both were the same weight and same fiber content. Swatches processed as the finished garment are so important.
Hello -- thank you. Yes, I agree (but I can't say that I'm the best role model because I don't always swatch, lol!). But at least we know that's what we SHOULD be doing. :)
Yet another helpful video. Thanks so much for covering this important topic!
Very interesting and helpful! I do like your new format with focus on the classroom.
I've used the yarn sub site before and had decent luck with it, but find that swatching is really the only way to know. If you can figure out your stitches per inch and then use the measurements from your pattern, you should be able to make it work. Thanks for your informative podcast!
Love the new intro!
Hello cuties
How are you doing?
🎉YAY! YOUR BACK!🎉
I've been driving my family crazy by checking multiple times a day, for two weeks, to see if you had posted. Lol. I'm a new viewer, a friend recommended you, and i love your videos. They are very informative and totally fun. ☺
Aww, thanks, Krystal! XO
This was incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for the excellent information!
Hello
Hello pretty Heather how are you feeling today 💖💖💖💖
super interesting! bookmarked everything. Thanks so much!!
Hi
Hope you had a great vacation. Missed you. Started the second Flavia book. What a hoot!
Hi Pat -- thanks so much. Glad you are enjoying the Flavia books, too! XO
Love the new format much better.
As usual, a very informative video & I appreciate it. I especially like knowing about the website YarnSub. I know I will consult this site often. Thanks, Kristine for all your research.
I'm actually pretty new to the swatch/gauge/test part of knitting and crocheting, because up until a year ago, I was working from no-dye-lot acrylic yarn, making granny square throws and simple stitch patterned throws, so running out of yarn wasn't a concern. I'm now starting to knit garments, and use more natural fibers, and dyed fiber, so I'm working on remembering to check all these things. This is going to be bookmarked in my knitting folder.
I was so happy to see that you posted a video!
Thanks for the detailed information and the downloadable aide.
Thank you for a very informative video, this will be my go to tutorial for yarns in the future.
I like the new format and look forward for your other videos.
Great video! Very informative & appreciated... Thank you for sharing. Have a wonderful day! 😊
I SO enjoy your informative videos!! Thank you!!!
That was extremely helpful! Thanks so much for clearing it all up for me.
very nice. thank you for all the information. I always substitute yarn and now I can do so more successfully. lol.
I recently stumbled upon the yarn-substition page (like yesterday or the day before) and think it's great. Though my process is usually: Buy yarn that I like, preferably on sale and then swatch to get the fabric I want (often a bit tighter than recommended) and then do math to the pattern numbers until they fit my gauge (then knit with constantly changing gauge and curse everything, but luckily the end result was fine).
Hello -- you are too funny. I'm only saying that because I resemble that remark, lol! XO
This was a great podcast; thank you.
Thank you for this information, I learned a lot of useful information.
I love all of the information you always provide in your videos. I just was wondering how much blocking your swatches would have changed the sizes of the swatch. I loved this video just like all of your others Christine, Thank you.
Hi Valerie -- thank you so much. That's a great question about blocking the swatches. I meant to mention that but forgot. I'm actually planning a follow-up video where I show these swatches after washing and blocking. I'm thinking about doing this for next week, but we'll see what I can get done. :)
Thank you, I can't wait to see your next video. Oh and I apologize for misspelling your first name Kristine. Enjoy your busy schedule.🌹
Hi Kris, as usual, excellent job! I loved the Yarn Substitutions website. I have never heard of this site before. When are you heading up this way? We are finally starting to thaw out. Lake is changing every day but I think it will be May before the docks go in. Hope we get a chance to meet during your stay.
Hi Diane! ♥♥♥ Yes, we'll be up probably at the end of May. I will definitely let you know for sure so we can get together. XO
Another great video. I am going to recommend this to some people I know who also do knitting podcasts.
Hello there
How are you doing?
Thank you Kristine. You've answered many of my "Why did this happen?" questions. I just frogged a sock that was not wide enough. Two-ply sock yarn is different than my regular sock yarn. Didn't know you had an Etsy shop until today. Will visit.
Hi Roseana -- thank you! XO
Very informative. Interesting about where the names for fingering weight and worsted came from,, I never knew that. Thank you.
I have started loom knitting. wanting to know how much yardage to use without buying to much extra yarn. What number of peg loom to use large round, long loom or infinity loom. Thank you for all the information. I watched 4 of your lessons this evening.
Hi, Dr. K. Great video. I like the idea of two shorter videos, keeping the tutorials separate. I loved hearing the origins of the the weight terms. I had always imagined knitters using their fingers to knit. Never thought it was simply how “fin grain” had morphed! And thanks for the heads up regarding yarnsub.com. I think that will be a big help. No more struggling with paper and pencil to figure out if 175 yds at 3.5 ounces is the same as...
I use fingering weight yarn for sweaters and cardigans. But, I live in Arizona and the sweaters are for the air conditioning
Hi Kathryn -- that's great. There are some beautiful cardigan patterns in fingering weight yarn. I started a fingering weight sweater once but ...my progress was too slow so I frogged it. :)
It takes quite a while to complete fingering weight cardigans. I made a worsted weight sweater but it never got cold enough to wear it. Arizona didn't have a winter in 2017
Hi
So informative!! Thank you!
When I substitute cotton for wool in a garment I use a looser gauge to get the drape I want and then figure the size to knit based on my new gauge.Many of the designers that I knit from use fingering wt. yarns for sweaters. I collect mainly fingering wt yarns. It is fun to combine different yarns together to produce your own yarn. I recently made a pullover with 3 different yarns with alpaca, wool and mohair and different colors. Many of the yarns are classified heavier because of how the yarn blooms after washing. If these yarns are knit in a tight gauge they will have no room to bloom.
Hi Dawn -- I'm a fingering weight yarn collector, too. :) You know, I've never tried knitting a sweater with it held double, but I find that idea very appealing. I love the idea of creating your own yarn look by doubling it. Thanks for the tip! Oh, and yes, regarding the yarn blooming, I am kicking myself because I meant to mention that. (I just added a comment about it to the information box.) I'm actually going to do a follow-up video on yarn blooming, maybe for next week. We'll see what I can get ready. :)
This is such a helpful video. Thanks so much.
Thanks for another great episode! 🌸💕
Clicked on this so fast 😃I really enjoy all your videos!💖
Thanks, this was very helpful!
Hello
Great information!
Another great video !
Excellent video with such great information. I can see myself using the yarnsub.com website quite often. Thank you!!!
This was an EXCELLENT video!!!! May I put a link to this video on my channel to send viewers over to it? I think you explained it so clearly that it would be very helpful to beginner knitters and crocheters.
Hello -- oh you are so sweet. Of course you can put a link on your channel. Thanks so much for watching and for thinking of me so kindly. XO
Thank you. I know my viewers are going to enjoy this. Many of them are beginners and I get a fair amount of questions about yarn weight. Your video will be a super help to them.
Thank you this was very informative.
Hello
Yarnsub.com- a Great resource! Had never heard of it before. I usually go by the Yarn Councils categories, then check gauge. Another very informative podcast- Thank You!
I enjoyed the video and info. I could not print the excel sheet. For some reason it only prints “Yarn Weight Primer.clsx: Sheet 1” and none of the info😕
Hi Pamela -- hmmm, I'm not sure why you can't print it, so I'm not going to be very much help. Can you download it and then print from your computer? Hope you can get it to work.
Great video! By the way, how does one learn to spin on a wheel? I would like to learn.
Hi Susan -- thank you. For spinning, check with your local yarn shops, fiber guilds, or fiber festivals. Sometimes yarn shops also sell spinning supplies. Fiber guilds will often offer lessons. Same with fiber festivals. I think it is good to try out different spinning wheels to see which one you like best, and sometimes you can do that with these businesses/organizations. Good luck!
Wow this is great! Even experienced knitters like myself can use this! Looking forward to the new formats! I’m curious to know if you blocked the DK swatches. Yarns can change drastically once blocked, so just curious to know. Thanks 🙋🏻♀️
Hello -- thank you, and thanks for your comment. I am kicking myself because I meant to mention blocking. (I just added a comment about that to the information box.) I'm actually going to do a follow-up video on yarn blooming, maybe for next week. We'll see what I can get ready. :)
Kristine Kelly Thank you so much for replying! I do find your videos so informing & I just love learning! Looking forward to the “blooming” follow-up! Have a great week! Karyn
What about Aran weight yarn?
Hi Bonnie -- Great question, and I meant to mention Aran in the video but forgot. Aran actually refers to a knitting style originating in the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. (Think of the sweaters with all those intricate cable patterns.) People started using the name "Aran" for the yarn used in those sweaters. So in that context, Aran weight yarn is usually considered a heavy worsted weight yarn. XO
Kristine, informally, i taught for five years how to make the basic hat on a loom without any knowledge of weight or for that matter anything about yarn. When i had time, i would experiment by doing other things rather than a hat. Head bands, i call them ear warmers, interest me. This has become a hit and miss thing since one of the yarns was very soft but with lots of elasticity. With time, the band looses its shape and becomes very loose; does not hold hair in place. Would giving more tension to the yarn solve the problem? Thank you in advance for your answer...ic
That depends on the fibre content really. As she said in the video, some fibres are better than others. Though for elasticity, no natural fibres will be as good as elastic rubber. Stich patterns can help (ribbing is good!), and if your headband is made from wool (bamboo too, but bamboo stretches out so quickly that I wouldn't necessarily use it) washing it could work. Just soak it in water (if it's not also dirty, no detergent necessary) for a bit, squeeze out water by rolling it in a towel and let dry flat. (If you want to make more headbands, you could also look into using sock yarn, or similar fibres (nylon for resistance and shape keeping) or using knit in elastic, or elastic bands.)
Thank you feanna, i used the yarn because of the color and softnes. once again thank you and have a nice week...ic
Hello -- yes, what was the yarn made out of (cotton, wool, etc.)? Cotton is notorious for sagging out of shape.
This helps tons, I still have a question. I have a sweater pattern I want to make, but the yarn i really want to make it with is exactly half of every measurement except the amount per ball, which doesn't matter. My question is whether or not I can just double the stitch count? A swatch comes out as expected 56 instead of 28 stitches in 4", and the same with number of rows. There is no pattern within the fabric. Would this work? Also it's made in pieces and I've sewn plenty enough to know how to piece it together, without using the knit pattern 's instructions. My thinking brain says it will work, my emotional brain doubts it. Thoughts?
Hello -- I'm glad it was helpful. As for your question, it's a good one. It seems like it would work the way you envision it. I guess the only way to know for sure is to try it out. Another idea I had would be to hold the yarn double. Let me know what you decide and how it goes. XO
I had been a subscriber for a while on my personal account but wanted to subscribe from my farm/podcasting account also! As a scientist myself I love your Classroom videos! I have used them in my majors classes as good examples of using the scientific method! If you don't mine I want to share your video info on my next episode of my Diary of a Physicist Farmgal podcast this week. I think they are great resource
Hello -- oh my gosh, I am feeling so humble and honored that you would want to share my video in your podcast. Thank you so much. XO
Kristine Kelly thank you so much I will send you a link when I do
Thanks for this wonderful video Kristine! Very informative! I am used to the numbering system so I like it. And thanks so much for yarnsub.com. What an awesome resource! I do have one question. I always get confused about the term “Aran.” Does this term refer to a weight or a color? I’ve seen it referred to as both so I’m totally confused. Any clarification you can give me would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Hi Thea -- thank you so much. Great question, and I meant to mention Aran in the video but forgot. Aran actually refers to a knitting style originating in the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. (Think of the sweaters with all those intricate cable patterns.) People started using the name "Aran" for the yarn used in those sweaters. So in that context, Aran weight yarn is usually considered a heavy worsted weight yarn. XO
Thanks Kristine!
I was surpised you didn't mention aran weight yarn, Dr. Kelly! A friend and I disagree as to what an aran weight yarn actually is. She says aran is just a synonym for worsted. I think that aran means a slightly heavier worsted weight yarn.
Hello -- I know, I meant to but forgot. It's in the Excel file, though. :) Aran weight would be in the "medium" (#4) category, but most people consider it a heavy worsted weight. It's not quite bulky, though. Thanks for your comment and for watching. XO
I have been wishing for something like yarnsub.com for years! Thank you!
Here is a book I recommend for you. I really think you would like it: Never Caught: The Washingtons' Relentless Pursuit of Their Runaway Slave, Ona Judge.
by Erica Armstrong Dunbar (Author)
Did you really post these links or is Google hijacking your links? I NEVER sign on to anything when youtube redirects me to a site.
Hello -- yes, those are links I posted. I use the Google URL shortener because otherwise most links are ridiculously long. :)