Haha, thanks! Yeah, I find that stuff annoying too, especially when people deliberately try to find ways to stretch it out past 10 minutes to get the better ad placements!
Generally you can just skip the first 5 minutes of a 7 minute video, that's the mark where they finally get to the point what the title suggests. Glad you're above that! And most of them miss all the most important tricky parts because they need two hands and need to put the camera down. Really neat videos, i wish more channels were like this!
I'm reminded of a van I once purchased. It was in my earlier years when I knew little about vehicles. I went to test drive it. It seemed to drive fine. A day later I gave it an oil change and saw what you saw in your first video, just it wasn't as vicious. I had driven a van with a huge amount of sludge in it for about a hundred miles and there was no ill effect that I could see. It helped that the engine was notorious for being reliable and was an older engine. Had it been a newer or small engine, I bet it would have destroyed it. Now I'm more careful.
I love videos like this where people just fix things because they like to see if they can get hunks running and road worthy. You sir have made my night with this whole series
I watched the whole series and I‘m really impressed with your work on the car and the videos. Very straight forward. No shouty „heyhey look at me“ drama talk. And you finished your work, documenting the progress step by step to its completion. No unfinished car build you‘ll find way too often on RUclips. This are a great example of how such a channel should be! Subscribed for the next project!
Brravoo! Very well broken down I've emailed the link to both of your videos to a handful of my clients that were interested on how to understand the oil analysis you are a great help to the one's that care to know. Thank you !
I found it useful that you attempted to save it instead of just running it until it blew up and replacing it like a lot of people would have. Good job, you took a chance on time and money. Glad you came out ahead.
nice follow up video .. sounds like your logic came good and that previously unloved motor has a good chance of a long life . I have just done a cambelts and water pump kit change out on my 2.5 tdi VW Caravelle after a terminal sounding death rattle at 250,000 miles caused by a broken fuel injector pump tensioner breaking . A small oil seep from the sump was sealed using 24 hour 3M epoxy 9323 A,B. . after scrubbing the areas with solvent .fresh Motul 12 antifreeze for inhibitor protection .
you can add some automatic transmission fluid to your oil it's full of detergents and it will clean the inside of your engine out... not all fluid, but depending on the capacity about 1/5 or so auto fluid. Been a trick for decades for sticky lifters and valves...
@Battle Boat you came out from under your bridge to comment on a factual statement two years after the fact.... just for that tiny little nugget.... and not only that, a lazy uninspired attempt at trolling.. you even make internet trolls look bad.. if you're going to take the time to be an ass, at least be an 'ass'...
@@jacobmullins3644 I've now officially swapped to amsoil and let me tell you what.. never going back if i can help it.. not that shell is bad oil,, its that amsoil is so much a step above.. also swapped both auto trans for amsoil fluids as well.. you can feel the difference immediately.
Just started watching your videos. They are quite informative. I’ve been oil testing my car and truck to get the most amount out of the oil and find the perfect drain interval. It’s nice to see videos on cars from the UK and I want to find a project car myself. I look forward to more videos.
Love seeing an old neglected car given some love, keep the videos coming! One comment I have is that you should really take the car for a drive and allow it to fully warm up. Usually idling like this will lead to excess fuel dilution in the oil and throw off the lab results.
Yeah, that is a risk, I agree. Not something I'd want to do regularly, but due to lack of forward planning I'd blocked the car in on my drive with another one that wasn't moveable at the time!
I remarked for the previous video that he ought to have dropped the oil pan from the start. However, his explanation in this follow-on video that such a thing was highly impractical because of the way the car is put together has me agreeing with him. I did, though, appreciate the detailed explanation of the oil analysis, even if it was a bit long and wordy.
I use black stone in the US and they are great. Oil tests are totally worth the price. Be nice to see a a follow up video on how the car is doing. Great videos !
Oh my love, you've got a zarto, I miss mine so much, always regretted selling it. Find a Harry Hockly rally ECU for it, makes the little zarto go like a rocket! The TRXX-R4 is the most fun you can have in the smallest package, awesome twisty B road blasters. Subscribed!
8:15 Moly is an additive used in some engine oils, but it is also found in certain steel alloys, and some types of piston rings are coated with it. That is why oil labs test for it, but they might not give you any advice about it. High silicon doesn't just mean that the air filter is dirty. It can mean that air is leaking in behind the air filter.
I know this is old but the iron is more then likely rust from any moisture that got into the engine from sitting. Best thing to do is put a magnet on the oil filter to trap any metal that's magnetic in the filter to reduce any grit that will cause excessive wear on parts.
Run some seafoam through the crankcase to clean up any leftover sludge. Run it for about 100 miles and change the oil and filter. Cleaned up a lot of sludge outta my Corolla and it ran much quieter and smoother.
molybdenum is a lubricant, so higher moly content would be somewhat beneficial, not necessarily a warning sign. that said, I don't believe a lot of standard oils contain much if any molybdenum, so the low reading is likely nothing to worry about, just an indication of the contents of the virgin oil. love the video series!
Just watched all the videos in this little series. Great work you're doing there. It was the sludge video that got me hooked. I've done similar work to on a couple of old Peugeot 306 cars in getting them mechanically sound before starting on the cosmetic things like bodywork. The oil lab analysis is a great tool that I've used myself but I think my sample was contaminated by going through the drip stick tube as my old worn dip stick wouldn't stay in place and would pop up a little with the crankcase pressure. Keep up the good work. Would you mind doing a video on future plans for the car or what videos you're planning on doing next with it?
I agree no crankshaft wear there: the babbit metal on the bearings would go first and that would send the tin and lead through the roof. Sounds like the valve train or rings were not entirely happy. Looks good to me!
after watching your videos pertaining to this car, I realize that I should learn how to fix cars. knowing how to us a great survival skill and money saver. awesome videos bro!
Hello from Japan! I'm glad to found your video, currently I have and driving with 2005 Daihatsu Move Custom RS (L152S) since July 2017. The Daihatsu JB Series Engine is in my car too, but mine is 2nd Gen. (named as JB-DET) Your JB Engine is 1st Gen, but JB-JL has better performance at high rev range than JB-DET. (because JB-DET Stock ECU make a performance as worse at high rev range due to too much power (around 80ps) without restriction and for match to Kei-car regulation (within 64ps). However, JB Engine is brilliant and fun to drive. even with Automatic Transmission. (L152S has A/T Gearbox only =_=) 9000rpm rev limit, huge potential for tuning (JB Engine is famous in Japan's Tuner, as the one of best 660cc Engine for tuning. There is a 200ps JB-DET Tuned Engines :D), Brilliant Sounds, it's definitely Pure Sports Engine. but sadly JB Series was discontinued at August 31, 2012. and It was a last 4-cylinder 660cc Turbo Engine. then, 4-cylinder 660cc Engine no longer be made forever because JDM doesn't want it anymore. I'm so impressed when I saw your JB-JL is reviving and rev up to 8000rpm as smoothly, even abandoned for 13 years... thanks for your great job. and, Please, keep a care to your car and engines as possible. I'll do same things for my Kei-car too..!
Thanks! I don't really have to worry about the restrictions here, but because the car is the UK version and quite rare, I'm planning to keep it standard rather than modifying it.
Before the first start of that car, probably would have been a good idea to: 1) drop the oil pan and clean it out, 2) do the oil flushes and change the filter like you did, 3) replace the spark plugs and wires, 4) replace the battery, 5) replace the air filter, 6) flush the radiator and replace with fresh antifreeze, 7) replace any worn hoses and the thermostat
Molybdenum is an element that is is used in molybdenum disulfide grease for gearboxes so it’s generally ok to have that in any substance. Could be an anti wear component to the oil
Now it's time to check the transmission(gearbox)oil, and the boots on the CV joints. Transmissions can condense water in their oil from having sat so long without being warmed up from normal day to day driving. It's not a bad idea to flush the brake fluid either. It's worth flushing all fluids and oils, in any car that has not been driven in years.
I think the engine should be good to go now. Sounded quite normal when you started it up. If it were mine, I'd do one more oil change in 1,000 miles and then whatever the normal service interval is. Good video.
i once did an engine flush with the bardahl engine flush in a honda, i saw many iron particles in the oil when i drained it, the weird thing was after it it never burned oil wich i was afraid for. and still lives in to this day
Castrol magnatec is not really the best oil to combat sludge as it's known to cause sludge if left in too long. Rather use a chevron or shell product. Delo 400 MGX will be great for that engine and faaaar exceeds the required specifications.
I've never really had an issue with it myself, plus it's what I had "in stock". I don't think the Delo you mention is sold here, plus it looks like it's a 15W40 anyway.
Call the oil police. You may have a point but you also do not know what the oil change protocol is going to be or what prodict he is going to use. Or if someone else is going end up owning and driving the car. Personally, I'd be more worried about the steering wheel. It's still on the wrong side.
Thanks! Yes, a few people suggested that, but unfortunately, I think it's not something that's sold in the UK. I'm happy enough that it's fairly clean in there, now, though.
10-20% of used oil remains in an engine after a simple drain and refill. Perform a Full Volume Oil Change (double oil change) and you will achieve a 96-99% clean sump. I do not recommend using any solvents in an engine, but in your case with severe contamination and sludge, there was no choice, short of a full rebuild. The high iron and aluminum is likely pistons and cylinders. The lead and copper is probably from bearing material. There was likely residual wear metals in the oil after the flushing. Any time you look at wear metal amounts you need to correlate that to mileage. The ppm is not relevant with out it. For example an engine that produces 5ppm/1k miles or km, may be acceptable. After 5k miles, that would be a total 25ppm. But 25 ppm after only 1k miles, that would be a serious concern. Some labs over universal averages for a paticular engine based on certain mileage, this is very helpful. Arbritrary limits without consider time or miles is of little value. In the future, perform a double oil change. The clean sump and the engine, the anti-wear, detergents, and dispersants will be able to fully perform its job, rather than having to counteract the 10-20% of used oil. The oil will perform better and last longer. Best part it is 100% safe. Use the same flush oil a second or third time or use in another vehicle of lower value or importance.
There are some models of cars today that do not have an oil level dipstick, such as BMW models. On these cars an oil sample needs to be obtained some other way. On cars without an oil level dipstick the level is read by an oil level sensor and displayed on the car dash board computer.
if you slide tube down dipstick tube to avoid picking up sludge from bottom of engine, how do you know you did not stick tube all the way down into bottom of pan did you mark tube with depth of dipstick, so it is just barely into oil not all the way to bottom?
I had a weird lil Japanese truck from the 80s that had never had an oil change, when I did change the oil the damn thing seized up, so I drained the new oil an put the old oil back in like my uncle had told me to do, an I let her sit fer a week, though I was told jus to let her sit fer three days. An when I went to crank her up, low and behold, the lil three banger fired right up an was running jus as fine as she was before I changed the oil. The damn thing has no place on it fer an oil filter, so that was a major issue proving that changing the oil would not be wise, but I was 14 an clueless bout that factor. An the lil truck showed me that sometimes it's good to use what's old instead of what's new.
I worked for Daihatsu back in the 90's and we didn't sell many of them.I remember them and they where small little things with good mpg but just didn't appeal to customers.I had 10 yr old daihatsu Charade Turbo 1.0L 3 cyl (Tiny turbo) with 63.000 miles in 1996 and a mate who was the mechanic there tweeked the turbod (Unmodified i must add) how he did it he wouldn't tell me bu when in 2nd gear and foot on the floor it wheel spun like mad then jolted you into the seat when it had grip lol it went like a rocket!! But only 0-70mph Top speed thou was bout 105mph.It had a poxy 13 inch wheels but i shoved the Applause 14 inch steel rims on which made it handle abit better and not affect my insurance.
I had a Volvo that sat for about ten years before moving and the oil was pretty thick as well. Not as bad as this stuff. But, nasty all the same. After putting some of the usual diesel through the sump (making sure to jostle the car for a moment here and there to mix things up) it came out in a sort of black chowder mess. However, instead of using an engine flush I went for some synthetic oil instead. If for any reason I've heard of a few seal failures wrought from it and using synthetic seems to do a pretty good, if gentle job in getting gunk out when changed after about 1,000 miles or so.
i dont think nickel would be in most car cranks. not factory ones anyway. they are usually iron carbon manganese and molybdenum. you may find chromium in a larger engines crank.
doh1976 I'm specifically thinking it may be a steel crank in the engine rather than an iron one. It's something that's in the back of my mind from somewhere, but I wasn't able to confirm it one way or the other, and I can't remember where I'm getting that from, so it's not really a definitive statement I'm making there.
what i meant was steel cranks are an alloy of iron carbon manganese and molybdenum. in fact all steels are mostly iron alloys. so a typical steel crank might be .4% carbon 1% manganese 1.5% moly with the balance iron. anyway you are right to not be to concerned, the new oil has detergents and will hold any debris still laying in the pan in suspension until it passes the oil filter. it probably picked up some iron from any of the old oil that was left in the oil passages.
Ah, I follow you, yes. You're probably right, and thinking about it, even if it were to have some nickel content, it might well be low enough to not flag up at all if in proportion to the iron levels I'm seeing. I kind of had a couple of percent nickel content in my head as "about right", for say something like 4340, but of course it's going to be very dependent of the steel chosen - if it even is steel! Your thinking mirrors my own on this being more pre-existing muck that's been picked up and carried out by the new oil, rather than being "new" wear.
Scotty Kilmer says never oil flush an engine as was done here in this video. Once the inside of the engine is squeaky clean from the oil flush that sludge is now loose and can contaminate small holes and crevices that need oil, also that sludge may have prevented oil leaks and oil getting past the piston rings. You may now have a car that leaks oil and burns oil through the tail pipe.
The best test for sludge is removing the valve cover and looking at the top end where oiling is less likely to wash it down and deposits are more likely to develope. Use a high detergent oil, like Castrol and NEVER buy cheaper oils sold by WALMART! Walmart sells major brand oil but it is specifically formulated for them and is NOT the same quality. Change oil regularly, use synthetic oil if you like but it and a good filter can only do just so much. Even with the best synthetic oils and filters every internal combustion engine produces residual carbon in the oil. You MUST periodically get rid of this carbon or you get sludge death. Toyota 2.0 Liter engines died like worms in the Sun thanks to insufficient oil changes. I know, I changed them like crazy 23 years ago and back then, they were cheap. Now, nothing is cheap. Just change your oil!
No spectacular reason, I just ended up being busy with other things and work etc, then obviously 2020 wasn't a particularly productive year! I really should get back into it again.
What would you recommend for a 03 Camry v6 oil pickup screen is clean and pan. It's at 148k miles. Tried to switch from Pennzoil conventional 5w30 to magnatec 5w30 full synth and lifted started clacking after 30 minutes of idling switched back to Pennzoil but the lifter clacking is still there. I would like to have it running smoothly again. Great video any advice I would greatly appreciate seeing as you did extremely well with this.
Heh, you're the first person to catch that. I didn't spot that I'd done it until the video was already finished, at which point I CBA to re-record the audio to fix it. (For anyone wondering, Stokes is the name of a 19th century mathematician who did a lot of work on fluid dynamics).
InitialDave Putting automatic transmission fluid in a sludge up engine breaks up sludge. let it run for 15 mins and let it set for a hour or 2 and drain it and do another flush if you want to be safe. atf flush is similar to people using diesel but atf is a oil and detergent and is safer for the seals than diesel
I see the engine is way over the front axle. Does this not affect the way the vehicle drives? I'm imagining oversteer for days...? There must have been a way for Daihatsu to have a drive shaft to the rear wheels without doing that.
InitialDave Oh okay. Usually however if I look under the hood of our 3008 or Sandero the engine is more on top of the front axle in between the front wheels not so far over it. So strange.
Not really (occasional cigars), but I notice it a bit on some footage when I'm using a throat mic, I might have it in a position that picks up on my breathing more.
If you have a really nice car you keep it as clean as possible. It's the same with people, if you try to keep your appearance as best you can it usually follows you would take good care of the inside of you. With your car you wash and clean the interior but do you keep the trunk/bed clean? If it's the condition of your oil that is a concern you should first ask yourself how long does it take for the new motor oil to change from the color it comes out of the bottle to what the old oil you drained out looked like. Oil turns black because it has carbon floating in it. Carbon comes from the burning of gas/diesel. The same black stuff that comes out of the tail pipe. Carbon is also what diamonds are made of. That black soot in your oil means it is dirty and that carbon is helping to wear apart your engine. If your engine is in good mechanical condition the oil in your engine will just be getting too dark to read the markings on the oil dipstick when your 3,000 - 7,000 miles most vehicle manufacturers recommend you change your oil. You should judge buy your oil not the recommendations. The cleaner you keep your paint and interior of your car the longer it will last. The cleaner you keep the oil in your engine the longer it will last. Also, If you pull your dipstick and find there is no oil on it you should not decide to change your oil because you are leaving most of the carbon in the engine. You should add enough to see oil on the end of the stick. It doesn't need to be full at this point. Drive it for a day or two with the oil in it then change it.
No, I didn't tell them anything about that side of things, I wanted to keep it as much of a "blind" test as I could, so they wouldn't make allowances for it having sat so long.
It's sad there aren't any cuores like this one in Poland, seems like it'd nice and fun car for me until I finish school and make enough money to get a nice first gen Miata and customize it.
Hey, those Miatas/MX5s are a solid choice, there's a reason they're so popular. We're very lucky in the UK, as there are quite a few fun older cars that can be had cheap - unfortunately, cars can rust a bit here.
+InitialDave The same goes for poland, older cars rust quite fast here if you don't secure them properly. I can already see my brother's omega (vauxhall carlton in UK I believe) rusting away with the speed of sound after this winter. That's why I didn't get a car yet, NA Miata in good condition is quite expensive here, and there still would be a lot to do with it. So first I need to finish school, for now I'm happy with my Honda MBX80, small, but still fun bike, I learned a lot thanks to her :)
Seems like Americans change their car oil much more often than us Europeans. Can you comment on this? How often would you change oil in a daily commuter? I usually change it once a year and drive 1-1,5 thousand kilometers a year.
Well, I'd usually change my oil annually even if not doing a high mileage, as you've still got the stop-start heat cycling every time you use the car - even if you're not using the car very often and it would probably be fine, a DIY oil and filter change is cheap enough that you may as well play it safe. As for the Americans changing oil so often, I think it's a holdover from years ago, with poor quality mineral oils that needed changing often, plus having oil cheap enough that you can justify still doing it that way.
Looks like you saved this one, luckily you changed the oil before cranking it.
Don't stop making videos now - you've found your voice, you're just gaining traction, now proceed. What's the next cool project going to be?
great videos, you dont spend 90% of the video talking random things like most youtubers, you just explain super easy and go do. very nice
Haha, thanks! Yeah, I find that stuff annoying too, especially when people deliberately try to find ways to stretch it out past 10 minutes to get the better ad placements!
Generally you can just skip the first 5 minutes of a 7 minute video, that's the mark where they finally get to the point what the title suggests. Glad you're above that! And most of them miss all the most important tricky parts because they need two hands and need to put the camera down. Really neat videos, i wish more channels were like this!
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
I wanted to thank you for the interesting videos you kept posting. Your content is much better than the crap some "professional" youtubers produce.
Hey, thanks! Glad you're enjoying it!
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
Just found this series 5-6 years after you posted it. Very interesting stuff and cool car!
I'm reminded of a van I once purchased. It was in my earlier years when I knew little about vehicles. I went to test drive it. It seemed to drive fine. A day later I gave it an oil change and saw what you saw in your first video, just it wasn't as vicious. I had driven a van with a huge amount of sludge in it for about a hundred miles and there was no ill effect that I could see. It helped that the engine was notorious for being reliable and was an older engine. Had it been a newer or small engine, I bet it would have destroyed it. Now I'm more careful.
I love videos like this where people just fix things because they like to see if they can get hunks running and road worthy. You sir have made my night with this whole series
I watched the whole series and I‘m really impressed with your work on the car and the videos. Very straight forward. No shouty „heyhey look at me“ drama talk. And you finished your work, documenting the progress step by step to its completion. No unfinished car build you‘ll find way too often on RUclips.
This are a great example of how such a channel should be! Subscribed for the next project!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Congrats resurrecting the car! Beautiful English countryside reminds of New England over here in the states.
I recently got a Mira and this sounds like a great idea to do!!! Thanks for the info Dave!!!
Brravoo! Very well broken down I've emailed the link to both of your videos to a handful of my clients that were interested on how to understand the oil analysis you are a great help to the one's that care to know. Thank you !
One of my new favorite channels. Great work, keep it up!
Thanks!
I found it useful that you attempted to save it instead of just running it until it blew up and replacing it like a lot of people would have. Good job, you took a chance on time and money. Glad you came out ahead.
That ickey goo you pulled out at the last video is still giving me nightmares!
Very satisfying to watch a revival of such car. Um not a mechanic guy but I just love these kind of works... keep up dude 😍🔥
36k on the clock, very low milage. Probably only had one oil change in its life at the most.
nice follow up video .. sounds like your logic came good and that previously unloved motor has a good chance of a long life . I have just done a cambelts and water pump kit change out on my 2.5 tdi VW Caravelle after a terminal sounding death rattle at 250,000 miles caused by a broken fuel injector pump tensioner breaking . A small oil seep from the sump was sealed using 24 hour 3M epoxy 9323 A,B. . after scrubbing the areas with solvent .fresh Motul 12 antifreeze for inhibitor protection .
I would love to see some more content! Really enjoy this channel.
you can add some automatic transmission fluid to your oil it's full of detergents and it will clean the inside of your engine out... not all fluid, but depending on the capacity about 1/5 or so auto fluid. Been a trick for decades for sticky lifters and valves...
@Battle Boat you came out from under your bridge to comment on a factual statement two years after the fact.... just for that tiny little nugget.... and not only that, a lazy uninspired attempt at trolling.. you even make internet trolls look bad.. if you're going to take the time to be an ass, at least be an 'ass'...
I use shell rotella diesel oil and trust me it works
@@jacobmullins3644 I've now officially swapped to amsoil and let me tell you what.. never going back if i can help it.. not that shell is bad oil,, its that amsoil is so much a step above.. also swapped both auto trans for amsoil fluids as well.. you can feel the difference immediately.
I have been binge watching your series. It has been a very interesting pastime.
Old Air Force trick, use 1 qt of ATF and run for about 500-1000 Miles. It will clean out any gunk in the engine.
Does this work for just diesel engines?
yep, in massive chunks right into the journals on the crank and the VVT system. you cant do army tricks on modern engines.
My dad has done that for years and we use it on most of our older engines. 350 Chevys and LS engines love atf
ATF isn't the same as it was 60 years ago when this became a thing
Just started watching your videos. They are quite informative. I’ve been oil testing my car and truck to get the most amount out of the oil and find the perfect drain interval. It’s nice to see videos on cars from the UK and I want to find a project car myself. I look forward to more videos.
Love seeing an old neglected car given some love, keep the videos coming! One comment I have is that you should really take the car for a drive and allow it to fully warm up. Usually idling like this will lead to excess fuel dilution in the oil and throw off the lab results.
Yeah, that is a risk, I agree. Not something I'd want to do regularly, but due to lack of forward planning I'd blocked the car in on my drive with another one that wasn't moveable at the time!
Well after watching that first oil change I would be pretty happy with this report if it were my car!
Mmm, it's certainly not at all bad, all things considered.
Loved this series so far! Keep up the in-depth videos like this.
Thanks!
Very interesting, your analysis was thorough and quite in-depth, I never knew oil additives had so many light metals in them
Recently discovered the channel and watched all of your videos! Please keep posting your excellent videos.
Thanks! I need to get my finger out and work on some of my other stuff, too.
I remarked for the previous video that he ought to have dropped the oil pan from the start. However, his explanation in this follow-on video that such a thing was highly impractical because of the way the car is put together has me agreeing with him. I did, though, appreciate the detailed explanation of the oil analysis, even if it was a bit long and wordy.
I use black stone in the US and they are great. Oil tests are totally worth the price. Be nice to see a a follow up video on how the car is doing. Great videos !
We need some new videos. Love your series!
Refreshing to see yet another great video!
Thanks!
Oh my love, you've got a zarto, I miss mine so much, always regretted selling it. Find a Harry Hockly rally ECU for it, makes the little zarto go like a rocket! The TRXX-R4 is the most fun you can have in the smallest package, awesome twisty B road blasters. Subscribed!
I was wondering how this turned out. Thanks for posting.
8:15 Moly is an additive used in some engine oils, but it is also found in certain steel alloys, and some types of piston rings are coated with it. That is why oil labs test for it, but they might not give you any advice about it.
High silicon doesn't just mean that the air filter is dirty. It can mean that air is leaking in behind the air filter.
I know this is old but the iron is more then likely rust from any moisture that got into the engine from sitting. Best thing to do is put a magnet on the oil filter to trap any metal that's magnetic in the filter to reduce any grit that will cause excessive wear on parts.
That motor oil you have is the cause of the calcium, phosphorus, and zinc.
Castrol GTX has a lot of calcium
great I will start drinking GTX daily to get my calcium dose!
sees human drinks castol gtx hahhaahh just kiding
Run some seafoam through the crankcase to clean up any leftover sludge. Run it for about 100 miles and change the oil and filter. Cleaned up a lot of sludge outta my Corolla and it ran much quieter and smoother.
Seafoam is turpentine and naptha just like every other product. Just use the cheap stuff.
Good Job mate, well done! 👍
As people said thank you for your videos. I really enjoyed watching them. Keep up the good work. And have a nice day.
Thanks!
molybdenum is a lubricant, so higher moly content would be somewhat beneficial, not necessarily a warning sign. that said, I don't believe a lot of standard oils contain much if any molybdenum, so the low reading is likely nothing to worry about, just an indication of the contents of the virgin oil. love the video series!
Yes, though it's also an alloying element in certain steels etc.
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
We have fluid that cleans out the engine and prepares it for synthetic oil. I recommend it on cars like this.
Just watched all the videos in this little series.
Great work you're doing there. It was the sludge video that got me hooked.
I've done similar work to on a couple of old Peugeot 306 cars in getting them mechanically sound before starting on the cosmetic things like bodywork.
The oil lab analysis is a great tool that I've used myself but I think my sample was contaminated by going through the drip stick tube as my old worn dip stick wouldn't stay in place and would pop up a little with the crankcase pressure.
Keep up the good work.
Would you mind doing a video on future plans for the car or what videos you're planning on doing next with it?
I agree no crankshaft wear there: the babbit metal on the bearings would go first and that would send the tin and lead through the roof. Sounds like the valve train or rings were not entirely happy. Looks good to me!
after watching your videos pertaining to this car, I realize that I should learn how to fix cars. knowing how to us a great survival skill and money saver. awesome videos bro!
Watch ChrisFix for the basics he has very good video's!
Hello from Japan!
I'm glad to found your video, currently I have and driving with 2005 Daihatsu Move Custom RS (L152S) since July 2017.
The Daihatsu JB Series Engine is in my car too, but mine is 2nd Gen. (named as JB-DET)
Your JB Engine is 1st Gen, but JB-JL has better performance at high rev range than JB-DET.
(because JB-DET Stock ECU make a performance as worse at high rev range due to too much power (around 80ps) without restriction and for match to Kei-car regulation (within 64ps).
However, JB Engine is brilliant and fun to drive. even with Automatic Transmission. (L152S has A/T Gearbox only =_=)
9000rpm rev limit, huge potential for tuning (JB Engine is famous in Japan's Tuner, as the one of best 660cc Engine for tuning. There is a 200ps JB-DET Tuned Engines :D), Brilliant Sounds, it's definitely Pure Sports Engine.
but sadly JB Series was discontinued at August 31, 2012. and It was a last 4-cylinder 660cc Turbo Engine.
then, 4-cylinder 660cc Engine no longer be made forever because JDM doesn't want it anymore.
I'm so impressed
when I saw your JB-JL is reviving and rev up to 8000rpm as smoothly,
even abandoned for 13 years... thanks for your great job.
and, Please, keep a care to your car and engines as possible.
I'll do same things for my Kei-car too..!
Thanks!
I don't really have to worry about the restrictions here, but because the car is the UK version and quite rare, I'm planning to keep it standard rather than modifying it.
i need more of your content, is so good
Before the first start of that car, probably would have been a good idea to: 1) drop the oil pan and clean it out, 2) do the oil flushes and change the filter like you did, 3) replace the spark plugs and wires, 4) replace the battery, 5) replace the air filter, 6) flush the radiator and replace with fresh antifreeze, 7) replace any worn hoses and the thermostat
Molybdenum is an element that is is used in molybdenum disulfide grease for gearboxes so it’s generally ok to have that in any substance. Could be an anti wear component to the oil
Awesome!! :) Worth all the effort!
Nice common sense approach - good job.
These videos were great, you need another project car now!
Now it's time to check the transmission(gearbox)oil, and the boots on the CV joints. Transmissions can condense water in their oil from having sat so long without being warmed up from normal day to day driving. It's not a bad idea to flush the brake fluid either. It's worth flushing all fluids and oils, in any car that has not been driven in years.
I think the engine should be good to go now. Sounded quite normal when you started it up. If it were mine, I'd do one more oil change in 1,000 miles and then whatever the normal service interval is. Good video.
Great video series, thanks !
Thanks!
i once did an engine flush with the bardahl engine flush in a honda, i saw many iron particles in the oil when i drained it, the weird thing was after it it never burned oil wich i was afraid for. and still lives in to this day
Iron is most likely from the piston sleeves in the block if the block is aluminum.
Have you done a compression and leak down test?
Excellent videos, i love that beautiful Daihatsu, in my country no exist that car! Greetings form Argentina
Thanks!
Castrol magnatec is not really the best oil to combat sludge as it's known to cause sludge if left in too long. Rather use a chevron or shell product. Delo 400 MGX will be great for that engine and faaaar exceeds the required specifications.
I've never really had an issue with it myself, plus it's what I had "in stock". I don't think the Delo you mention is sold here, plus it looks like it's a 15W40 anyway.
Marius Fourie Ive used Shell Helix 5W-40 ultra in my japanese cars. Worked like a charm
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
Call the oil police. You may have a point but you also do not know what the oil change protocol is going to be or what prodict he is going to use. Or if someone else is going end up owning and driving the car. Personally, I'd be more worried about the steering wheel. It's still on the wrong side.
The last few lines of the oil analysis looks like a health drink.
1st time watching your channel and seems to be interesting. subscribed!
Cracking little car, might be worth trying marvel mystery oil for a few thousand miles, very very good at cleaning out sludge
Thanks! Yes, a few people suggested that, but unfortunately, I think it's not something that's sold in the UK. I'm happy enough that it's fairly clean in there, now, though.
Ebay UK, I get it from there, like you say might be ok now anyway.
Ah, good to know!
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
You should do a RX-7 project if you have the time
Haha! Oh man, I ALREADY have too much stuff I need to get my finger out and do work on!
Funny things happen when cars show up on your doorstep.
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
10-20% of used oil remains in an engine after a simple drain and refill. Perform a Full Volume Oil Change (double oil change) and you will achieve a 96-99% clean sump. I do not recommend using any solvents in an engine, but in your case with severe contamination and sludge, there was no choice, short of a full rebuild. The high iron and aluminum is likely pistons and cylinders. The lead and copper is probably from bearing material. There was likely residual wear metals in the oil after the flushing. Any time you look at wear metal amounts you need to correlate that to mileage. The ppm is not relevant with out it. For example an engine that produces 5ppm/1k miles or km, may be acceptable. After 5k miles, that would be a total 25ppm. But 25 ppm after only 1k miles, that would be a serious concern. Some labs over universal averages for a paticular engine based on certain mileage, this is very helpful. Arbritrary limits without consider time or miles is of little value. In the future, perform a double oil change. The clean sump and the engine, the anti-wear, detergents, and dispersants will be able to fully perform its job, rather than having to counteract the 10-20% of used oil. The oil will perform better and last longer. Best part it is 100% safe. Use the same flush oil a second or third time or use in another vehicle of lower value or importance.
There are some models of cars today that do not have an oil level dipstick, such as BMW models. On these cars an oil sample needs to be obtained some other way. On cars without an oil level dipstick the level is read by an oil level sensor and displayed on the car dash board computer.
Yeah, in those cases you may have no choice but to take the sample from the drained oil instead.
if you slide tube down dipstick tube to avoid picking up sludge from bottom of engine, how do you know you did not stick tube all the way down into bottom of pan did you mark tube with depth of dipstick, so it is just barely into oil not all the way to bottom?
Bravo!
Very good video, thanks!
polo P Thanks!
Love your videos and big fan of your car
Wesley Turner Thanks!
Rusted cylinders washed some rust down to oil.
I had a weird lil Japanese truck from the 80s that had never had an oil change, when I did change the oil the damn thing seized up, so I drained the new oil an put the old oil back in like my uncle had told me to do, an I let her sit fer a week, though I was told jus to let her sit fer three days. An when I went to crank her up, low and behold, the lil three banger fired right up an was running jus as fine as she was before I changed the oil. The damn thing has no place on it fer an oil filter, so that was a major issue proving that changing the oil would not be wise, but I was 14 an clueless bout that factor. An the lil truck showed me that sometimes it's good to use what's old instead of what's new.
Very interesting video.
I worked for Daihatsu back in the 90's and we didn't sell many of them.I remember them and they where small little things with good mpg but just didn't appeal to customers.I had 10 yr old daihatsu Charade Turbo 1.0L 3 cyl (Tiny turbo) with 63.000 miles in 1996 and a mate who was the mechanic there tweeked the turbod (Unmodified i must add) how he did it he wouldn't tell me bu when in 2nd gear and foot on the floor it wheel spun like mad then jolted you into the seat when it had grip lol it went like a rocket!! But only 0-70mph Top speed thou was bout 105mph.It had a poxy 13 inch wheels but i shoved the Applause 14 inch steel rims on which made it handle abit better and not affect my insurance.
You don't see many of those Charades at all nowadays, never mind the turbo ones.
I had a Volvo that sat for about ten years before moving and the oil was pretty thick as well. Not as bad as this stuff. But, nasty all the same. After putting some of the usual diesel through the sump (making sure to jostle the car for a moment here and there to mix things up) it came out in a sort of black chowder mess. However, instead of using an engine flush I went for some synthetic oil instead. If for any reason I've heard of a few seal failures wrought from it and using synthetic seems to do a pretty good, if gentle job in getting gunk out when changed after about 1,000 miles or so.
i have had great results from the sea foam line of products
I told you already. After seeing this, I'm not going to medical school.
I loved these videos, dude where did you go???? Are you ok?
Konrad C he died 😓 he’s actually my coworker
@@James-hg5tk Oh no!!!! I am so sorry!!!! What a terrible loss and shame!! He will be missed on youtube!!!! RIP Dave!!!!!
@@goclunker imao
i dont think nickel would be in most car cranks. not factory ones anyway. they are usually iron carbon manganese and molybdenum. you may find chromium in a larger engines crank.
doh1976 I'm specifically thinking it may be a steel crank in the engine rather than an iron one. It's something that's in the back of my mind from somewhere, but I wasn't able to confirm it one way or the other, and I can't remember where I'm getting that from, so it's not really a definitive statement I'm making there.
what i meant was steel cranks are an alloy of iron carbon manganese and molybdenum. in fact all steels are mostly iron alloys. so a typical steel crank might be .4% carbon 1% manganese 1.5% moly with the balance iron.
anyway you are right to not be to concerned, the new oil has detergents and will hold any debris still laying in the pan in suspension until it passes the oil filter. it probably picked up some iron from any of the old oil that was left in the oil passages.
Ah, I follow you, yes. You're probably right, and thinking about it, even if it were to have some nickel content, it might well be low enough to not flag up at all if in proportion to the iron levels I'm seeing. I kind of had a couple of percent nickel content in my head as "about right", for say something like 4340, but of course it's going to be very dependent of the steel chosen - if it even is steel!
Your thinking mirrors my own on this being more pre-existing muck that's been picked up and carried out by the new oil, rather than being "new" wear.
The best cast iron blocks have a certain amount of nickel in them to increase durability. High nickel could indicate high cylinder bore wear.
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
Great videos and a realy great idea with such a rare car. I think it will hell other People a lot. Thx👌
You should really try to use Gumout to help it clean the injectors
Very nice
Would be interesting to see what your new oil gets to when ran as long as this one has.
Scotty Kilmer says never oil flush an engine as was done here in this video. Once the inside of the engine is squeaky clean from the oil flush that sludge is now loose and can contaminate small holes and crevices that need oil, also that sludge may have prevented oil leaks and oil getting past the piston rings. You may now have a car that leaks oil and burns oil through the tail pipe.
Scotty Kilmer says a lot of things. Most of it can be ignored.
InitialDave I realize Scotty is not English but.....
TheGP Scotty is an idiot, lol
The best test for sludge is removing the valve cover and looking at the top end where oiling is less likely to wash it down and deposits are more likely to develope. Use a high detergent oil, like Castrol and NEVER buy cheaper oils sold by WALMART! Walmart sells major brand oil but it is specifically formulated for them and is NOT the same quality. Change oil regularly, use synthetic oil if you like but it and a good filter can only do just so much. Even with the best synthetic oils and filters every internal combustion engine produces residual carbon in the oil. You MUST periodically get rid of this carbon or you get sludge death. Toyota 2.0 Liter engines died like worms in the Sun thanks to insufficient oil changes. I know, I changed them like crazy 23 years ago and back then, they were cheap. Now, nothing is cheap. Just change your oil!
very interesting great video again
Thanks!
How come you stopped making videos??
No spectacular reason, I just ended up being busy with other things and work etc, then obviously 2020 wasn't a particularly productive year! I really should get back into it again.
@@InitialDave would love to see you back with more videos, was enjoying the Daihatsu sludge removal videos!
What would you recommend for a 03 Camry v6 oil pickup screen is clean and pan. It's at 148k miles. Tried to switch from Pennzoil conventional 5w30 to magnatec 5w30 full synth and lifted started clacking after 30 minutes of idling switched back to Pennzoil but the lifter clacking is still there. I would like to have it running smoothly again. Great video any advice I would greatly appreciate seeing as you did extremely well with this.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with 20% of Marvel Mystery Oil, darin after 200 miles and replace with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
PS: viscosity is in centistokes not centistrokes although the later sounds more gentle ;)
Heh, you're the first person to catch that. I didn't spot that I'd done it until the video was already finished, at which point I CBA to re-record the audio to fix it.
(For anyone wondering, Stokes is the name of a 19th century mathematician who did a lot of work on fluid dynamics).
Did u ever remove the oil pan AND Valve cover for a cleaning??
InitialDave Putting automatic transmission fluid in a sludge up engine breaks up sludge. let it run for 15 mins and let it set for a hour or 2 and drain it and do another flush if you want to be safe. atf flush is similar to people using diesel but atf is a oil and detergent and is safer for the seals than diesel
Very interesting. Can I ask about how much money you put into the car from the time you got it to the time you got it back on the road?
I don't really track things like that too closely, but probably not all that much - I'd say comfortably under £1k.
Briliant!
Haha! Thanks, appreciate it!
InitialDave are you ging to upload new videos? :)
I will do - afraid I'm really bad at having lots of unfinished ones I need to complete! Same with cars in that respect...
@@InitialDave haha good luck!
@@InitialDave great i hope you get to uploading
Watch out bro! You’re driving on the wrong side of the road! Lol. Jk. Good info.
I see the engine is way over the front axle. Does this not affect the way the vehicle drives? I'm imagining oversteer for days...? There must have been a way for Daihatsu to have a drive shaft to the rear wheels without doing that.
The engine position is normal for a transverse engine and gearbox, it's the same as any similar setup.
InitialDave Oh okay. Usually however if I look under the hood of our 3008 or Sandero the engine is more on top of the front axle in between the front wheels not so far over it. So strange.
Great video man. One question tho do you smoke? Because you breath really heavily.
Not really (occasional cigars), but I notice it a bit on some footage when I'm using a throat mic, I might have it in a position that picks up on my breathing more.
InitialDave is this channel abandoned or are you going to upload again?
I think they say not to run the engine before taking the sample.
If you have a really nice car you keep it as clean as possible. It's the same with people, if you try to keep your appearance as best you can it usually follows you would take good care of the inside of you. With your car you wash and clean the interior but do you keep the trunk/bed clean? If it's the condition of your oil that is a concern you should first ask yourself how long does it take for the new motor oil to change from the color it comes out of the bottle to what the old oil you drained out looked like. Oil turns black because it has carbon floating in it. Carbon comes from the burning of gas/diesel. The same black stuff that comes out of the tail pipe. Carbon is also what diamonds are made of. That black soot in your oil means it is dirty and that carbon is helping to wear apart your engine. If your engine is in good mechanical condition the oil in your engine will just be getting too dark to read the markings on the oil dipstick when your 3,000 - 7,000 miles most vehicle manufacturers recommend you change your oil. You should judge buy your oil not the recommendations. The cleaner you keep your paint and interior of your car the longer it will last. The cleaner you keep the oil in your engine the longer it will last. Also, If you pull your dipstick and find there is no oil on it you should not decide to change your oil because you are leaving most of the carbon in the engine. You should add enough to see oil on the end of the stick. It doesn't need to be full at this point. Drive it for a day or two with the oil in it then change it.
Iron may be crankshaft, but did they know it sat for fifteen years so it may be surface rust on the various iron parts?
No, I didn't tell them anything about that side of things, I wanted to keep it as much of a "blind" test as I could, so they wouldn't make allowances for it having sat so long.
Cool video, i actually own a Daihatsu Sirion 2008 .
Thanks!
Does that engine require a 3000 mile oil change?
It's sad there aren't any cuores like this one in Poland, seems like it'd nice and fun car for me until I finish school and make enough money to get a nice first gen Miata and customize it.
Hey, those Miatas/MX5s are a solid choice, there's a reason they're so popular. We're very lucky in the UK, as there are quite a few fun older cars that can be had cheap - unfortunately, cars can rust a bit here.
+InitialDave The same goes for poland, older cars rust quite fast here if you don't secure them properly. I can already see my brother's omega (vauxhall carlton in UK I believe) rusting away with the speed of sound after this winter. That's why I didn't get a car yet, NA Miata in good condition is quite expensive here, and there still would be a lot to do with it. So first I need to finish school, for now I'm happy with my Honda MBX80, small, but still fun bike, I learned a lot thanks to her :)
Seems like Americans change their car oil much more often than us Europeans. Can you comment on this? How often would you change oil in a daily commuter? I usually change it once a year and drive 1-1,5 thousand kilometers a year.
Well, I'd usually change my oil annually even if not doing a high mileage, as you've still got the stop-start heat cycling every time you use the car - even if you're not using the car very often and it would probably be fine, a DIY oil and filter change is cheap enough that you may as well play it safe.
As for the Americans changing oil so often, I think it's a holdover from years ago, with poor quality mineral oils that needed changing often, plus having oil cheap enough that you can justify still doing it that way.