lots to take away from this design! I'm just left wondering about the hardware, is that metal latch something commonly available at hardware stores across the pond? and to get a bolt that works nicely with the VITGA track it looks like I'll need to fabricate one myself? Or is that a modified off the shelf product also?
The toggle latch is easy enough to find, but the sliding nut was part of an advertising board system. I used to be able to buy them by the hundred from a local hardware supplier. Indeed, I use to sell them from my website, But the manufacturers changed the design and they are no longer available. I probably have enough left to see me out, but they are easy enough to make from a piece of steel, 3mm x 12mm or so (1/8 x 1/2") filed to fit, then drilled and tapped. The Bristol levers are readily available online, I've never seen them in my local DIY sheds.
I really like the sacrificial stop portion. It seems easy enough to recalibrate that I might actually do it. And if I feel like batching out a bunch of cuts registered off of an mitered end, I can do that just as well.
Yes, that is a good point. You could attach a V-shaped stop for extra support. It wouldn't be calibrated for zero, but at lesat you could work to just one pencil mark for as many cuts as you like.
Thanks for the tip about the Ikea T track as the price of normal T track makes many projects too expensive for me. In fact I made a fence extension for my cross cut sled and never added a stop for this reason. I salvaged a flip stop from an 1980s Scheppach sliding table, found as roadside scrap) and it uses the exact design as yours (except it is metal of course). Thanks again, now I can finally add the flip stop and a scale to my cross cut sled.
Yep, it´s fantastic! My favourite online-shop for t-tracks (or c-profile as we say here in germany) sells them for about 6 EUR per meter, that´s about 5 GBP. They just lowered the price about 12 %.
Brilliant! As you say over there. That is truly a fantastic fence. And I want one for my SCMS. And it gives a handy excuse for a trip to Ikea. All awesome. "We can use that" -- The sound a genius makes when observing that a purpose made object for one use can be applied very well to a completely unrelated use - saving money, time, and improving the quality of that which is made. I love it!
Many thanks Steve, excellent stuff as always. More, more, more!
Absolutely brilliant ideal to cut the stop. It will always be zero! One of those tips that is a real noggin slapper! Thank you!
Well done!
Cabinetmaker and jig builder, over here in Canada. New fan too.
I have the same saw. Very useful.👍🏻
Beautifully done
Great job bud....great design and you should get it made commercially and market it..
Saw this on Instructables. Love it! Subscribed to see what else you have up your sleeve.
lots to take away from this design! I'm just left wondering about the hardware, is that metal latch something commonly available at hardware stores across the pond? and to get a bolt that works nicely with the VITGA track it looks like I'll need to fabricate one myself? Or is that a modified off the shelf product also?
The toggle latch is easy enough to find, but the sliding nut was part of an advertising board system. I used to be able to buy them by the hundred from a local hardware supplier. Indeed, I use to sell them from my website, But the manufacturers changed the design and they are no longer available. I probably have enough left to see me out, but they are easy enough to make from a piece of steel, 3mm x 12mm or so (1/8 x 1/2") filed to fit, then drilled and tapped. The Bristol levers are readily available online, I've never seen them in my local DIY sheds.
I really like the sacrificial stop portion. It seems easy enough to recalibrate that I might actually do it. And if I feel like batching out a bunch of cuts registered off of an mitered end, I can do that just as well.
Yes, that is a good point. You could attach a V-shaped stop for extra support. It wouldn't be calibrated for zero, but at lesat you could work to just one pencil mark for as many cuts as you like.
Thanks for the tip about the Ikea T track as the price of normal T track makes many projects too expensive for me. In fact I made a fence extension for my cross cut sled and never added a stop for this reason. I salvaged a flip stop from an 1980s Scheppach sliding table, found as roadside scrap) and it uses the exact design as yours (except it is metal of course). Thanks again, now I can finally add the flip stop and a scale to my cross cut sled.
Yep, it´s fantastic! My favourite online-shop for t-tracks (or c-profile as we say here in germany) sells them for about 6 EUR per meter, that´s about 5 GBP. They just lowered the price about 12 %.
I am jealous! :) Not many things coming down in price, these days.
Brilliant! As you say over there. That is truly a fantastic fence. And I want one for my SCMS. And it gives a handy excuse for a trip to Ikea. All awesome. "We can use that" -- The sound a genius makes when observing that a purpose made object for one use can be applied very well to a completely unrelated use - saving money, time, and improving the quality of that which is made. I love it!
Genius? Aw, shucks, as you say over there. But I'll take it! :) Thank you.
Nice addition to the saw Steve, thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Yes, I'm very pleased with it. I should have done it years ago.
Steve, great job and video, love your videos!
Thanks 👍
Thanks Steve, very good idea.
Very good!!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you!)
Awesome!
Thank you.