Finger injury in climbers (Synovitis, joint problems)

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  • Опубликовано: 15 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 117

  • @kenversusryu
    @kenversusryu 3 года назад +18

    I’ve had this for 4 years. I thought quarantining and not climbing would help. It did for a little bit but it never subsided to what it was before climbing. Imagine having this for years, not climb for a year, and finally being able to crack that knuckle again. So satisfying! It came back of course after I started climbing again.

    • @sergiochavezlazo5362
      @sergiochavezlazo5362 Год назад

      Hello! So how are you dealing with this now? :)

    • @kenversusryu
      @kenversusryu Год назад +1

      @@sergiochavezlazo5362 i stopped full time climbing. It does swell when I climb again (once every other month) but surprisingly it doesn’t really hurt anymore. It’s just ugly. But cracking the knuckle is so damn satisfying. Lol.

    • @ilickspam
      @ilickspam 10 месяцев назад

      @@kenversusryu so you can fully curl your fingers into a fist?

  • @kruaornsugunnasil6026
    @kruaornsugunnasil6026 2 года назад +3

    I had this 6 months ago after climbing too hard too fast (4 times/week triggered this). Joints swollen on 6 fingers - couldn’t make a fist at all. Went to see Ortho and he put me on finger splinters. I wore them for 3 weeks. I injected steroids on the worst finger. It got sore for a week then recovered.
    I have rested from climbing for 3 months. During this time, I went to see a PT for ultrasound treatments. It got better slowly.
    Came back to climbing again for 3 months now. The swollen joints flared up every session but not as bad as the first time. What i did differently:
    1) Tape the fingers
    2) Limit my training to 1-2 times/week
    Seem like it never goes away. But, I learn to be patient now. Want to have healthy fingers so I can continue climbing.

  • @chriseverett8129
    @chriseverett8129 3 года назад +33

    Very informative, although i have had this injury on and off many times in my middle finger over the past 10 or so years. It Usually flares up when i start training to much. And i have tried it all. Although this is anecdotal, i can say categorically that Complete rest has never been the answer. Week or two off, depending how bad it is then progressive hang boarding, as well as flexor forearm stretching, arm aiding in about the flexor origin area(not to hard) and "flossing" seem to the way back for me...
    * Disclaimer, this is my personal experience only

    • @elfriederich
      @elfriederich 3 года назад

      Thanks! How did you stretch your forearm? And can you also explain the "flossing" thing?

    • @apexpredator9021
      @apexpredator9021 Год назад

      I have synovitis in pinky and my foot metacarsals from playing rugby. Rest did f*** all and was out for months and got sick of it. I went to this one doctor who told me to take anti inflammatory’s, massage the area and use heat packs. After 2-3 weeks of consistently doing it went away. Hope it works for others.

  • @COUPON4Vitamins
    @COUPON4Vitamins 8 лет назад +4

    Great information, actually the only video about synovitis that is NOT caused by rheuma or osteoarthritis.

  • @kdepankar6643
    @kdepankar6643 3 года назад +1

    Yes exactly the same pain I m facing from so long it's been 3 months finally I found your video.

  • @randybutternubs7820
    @randybutternubs7820 Год назад +9

    I have had this for the past 3 months now. I still can feel it but it varies in pain from day to day. Some days it feels like it’s getting better while others are the reverse. Nights are usually when it hurts the most and the afternoon is when it’s barely noticeable if it all. When I climb on it that’s when it feels the best weirdly enough. Overall it’s a weird injury that seems like it never goes away.

  • @austinboulders
    @austinboulders Год назад +1

    Thank you for sharing this video. Sad to hear the only solution is to rest - the last thing any climber wants to do 😅

  • @mintybobo
    @mintybobo 8 лет назад +19

    This was super informative thank you so much for making this so clear and easy to understand!

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 лет назад +1

      +Michael Chan Your welcome, thanks for watching!

    • @antdx316
      @antdx316 7 лет назад +1

      I highly recommend to not use non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs as they inhibit the rebuilding process of the joints.

  • @dickymon4195
    @dickymon4195 Год назад

    Yo thanks for the video, regret not resting earlier and now it takes longer to recover, very informative

  • @AVPML
    @AVPML 4 года назад +1

    I just discover this channel and i just wanted to thank you for such a great video.

  • @derekcraig3617
    @derekcraig3617 3 года назад +23

    I've had synovitis for years and years. I've taken up to a year off. It never truly goes away with rest. The pain goes down all the way but it comes back after a little bit of hard climbing. SO.... I don't think this video is very helpful.

    • @ibidthewriter
      @ibidthewriter Год назад

      Do you do any PT during your time off?

  • @Servoblog
    @Servoblog 5 лет назад

    What you need to do is going to a specialist or/and physio to get diagnosed properly, they will suggest what is the best plan for recovery. You will most certainly need to do mild finger exercise and mobility.

  • @Psilocy-ben
    @Psilocy-ben 3 года назад +4

    Thanks for the super informative video. I’ve had 4 swollen knuckles from climbing for over a year, some worse than others. I saw a PT, primary care doc, and stopped climbing for months and nothing got better. Specialist PT had me do some exercises but they didn’t seem to help, and primary care doctor told me to just take ibuprofen. Do you have any other suggestions?

  • @bas5984
    @bas5984 2 года назад

    climbing for more than a half year now. started with 1 time a week, not 3 times. and the thing limiting me the most are my sweaty hands and pain in my finger joints x) i always had problems with my fingers. when helping someone move and lifting heavier things they started to hurt. will see a doc for that

  • @YuvrajSingh-mt6yb
    @YuvrajSingh-mt6yb 3 года назад

    Very useful and helpful video.Such a great relief and knowledgeable video.Many thanks 😊

  • @xxclusive8380
    @xxclusive8380 4 года назад +1

    Such clear teaching. Thank you.

  • @leopoldleoleo
    @leopoldleoleo Год назад

    I’ve had this in my index finger for the past 2 months and it’s incredibly frustrating, and doesn’t seem like it’s going away, no matter how long i take off climbing. Funnily enough it feels best when I climb on it

  • @tomaszkorolczuk
    @tomaszkorolczuk 6 лет назад +3

    Great video! Thanks for explaining how to tape it ^

  • @bikerboi1983
    @bikerboi1983 9 месяцев назад

    I bought electric hand warmers, was the only thing that seemed to really help and touch wood, been good since!

  • @MrCreed145
    @MrCreed145 2 года назад

    yup. Only been climbing a few months but middle finger. (I also work construction, and weigh 220) ill lay off that finger for a few weeks best i can i guess. Just annoying for little stuff really like grabbing coffee cup. Don't really notice it when doing labor intensive stuff ironically. I've a very high pain tolerance though, in the infantry we used to walk the skin off our feet all the time etc. till our boots were bloody. It actually hurts much more if I try to open my finger against force. That doesn't really come up very often.

  • @judyweikumbenson199
    @judyweikumbenson199 4 года назад +1

    You're a great artist!

  • @rulebreaker666
    @rulebreaker666 2 года назад +1

    I was wondering, this climber "sausage" fingers condition are any bad for health? Or it's OK and just sorta like huge muscles of bodybuilders?

  • @a.s.7160
    @a.s.7160 4 года назад +2

    my middle fingers are gone but confirmation bias tells me its ok to climb still. 6:14 "fix" is tape (just placebo). 6:35 "it's not a big deal." :D
    It's been on and off with me for 2+ years but after first lockdown with the forced rest, it actually healed after 3 months of no climbing...it felt alien to not feel pain on my fingers, but when the gyms re-opened, I made the mistake of going straight for v5+ climbs... lo and behold it came back after 1 session. Hopefully this second lockdown will help me with my addiction.

  • @BoboBish
    @BoboBish 9 месяцев назад

    I've had this in multiple fingers for 1.5 years. I talked to a finger PA and he said there was nothing he could do except give me a shot of cortisol. I've rested for 1 month on two separate occasions, and for 3 months on one occasion. I feel like there is no way to recover so I keep climbing.

  • @atlaesthetics8354
    @atlaesthetics8354 5 лет назад +1

    If i hang from a bar for any amount of time i get this for a couple of minutes before it goes away, im 18.

  • @GraeOne_
    @GraeOne_ 4 года назад +1

    TWO WEEKS?? NOOOOOOOO
    (thanks for the vid)

  • @scotttalbot4041
    @scotttalbot4041 8 лет назад +1

    I think I may have this too! My middle finger gets very stiff and every now and then the knuckle joint cracks, which is pretty painful! Thanks for posting this video, I've been trying to figure out what the problem is for 2 weeks now... Resting it sucks though :-/

    • @derailedtrain2517
      @derailedtrain2517 3 года назад

      Hey Scott, I do have the same problem with the middle finger joint. How did you treat it ?

    • @scotttalbot4041
      @scotttalbot4041 3 года назад

      @@derailedtrain2517 I never fully got over it. In the end, I gave up climbing anything too technical, as even taping my fingers only helped so much. 😔

  • @JPX_Gaming
    @JPX_Gaming 7 лет назад +30

    I hate having to rest... but i guess i need to

    • @Adamjen
      @Adamjen 6 лет назад +8

      rest day is a myth! #hardcore #gohardorgohome #livefastdieyoung #cantbendmyfingers

  • @Eddysamson1
    @Eddysamson1 4 года назад +1

    If I extend my right middle finger it is essentially a near perfect straight line along the top of the finger. If I do the same with my left middle finger, it does not straighten out to a near perfect straight line. Its straight up until the middle knuckle/joint at which point it dips down like a ramp. I cannot get it to line up like my right hand does. Is this due to Synovitis? The joint is very large and bulky. Its been popping on open/closing for about 4 months now. But during this 4 month period I've been climbing at my highest ever level and not seeing much loss of strength or pain in the finger.

  • @monkeybrain80
    @monkeybrain80 8 лет назад +9

    cool! thanks for the explanation! This is great.
    Say, wouldn't immobilizing your injured finger with tape and continuing climbing, increase the chances of injurying one of the other fingers that is now taking an abnormal load? In theory it seems possible to climb more carefully in this situation, however from my experience it's very easy to accidentally put an unintentional amount of strain on fingers because of the highly dynamic nature of body movement in climbing.
    After working through several finger injuries over the years, I've found that the best system is to just stop climbing and instead train your body using more predictable movement or only focus on uninjured parts of the body. Yes, this is just my personal experience.... however I also know many people that keep on climbing through finger injuries... and those people usually have their hands covered in tape because they keep on collecting new finger injuries that never heal properly.
    Maybe you could do a video about finger injury recovery.... ways to increase recovery time (diet, contrasting, etc)... and in that video you could cover the topic of avoiding climbing... because all too often people do themselves in by not resisting the rock.

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 лет назад +4

      +monkeybrain80 Thats an interesting take on it, I'm not sure how hard someone would climb on their non injured fingers if one is already taped up. From my experience if one finger is already injured then I tend to climb cautiously in general to avoid a double injury, it's a good point though. And yes I agree, "climbing through" an injury almost never works, we'll definitly do an upcoming video on finger rehabilitation soon, thanks for the suggestion!

    • @MrSatchelpack
      @MrSatchelpack 8 лет назад +3

      Any chance of the finger rehab video for this particular issue? Thanks.

    • @baron5688
      @baron5688 2 года назад

      *decrease recovery time

    • @ChrisSmithR
      @ChrisSmithR 2 года назад

      @@Obsessionclimbing would love to see actionable advice! We all know the feeling and issue, that's why we're here. What I'm looking for is rehab tools - hopefully other than the pat answer of 'take it easy' (we all know that one). Great video, keep em coming!

  • @shooterrick1
    @shooterrick1 8 лет назад +1

    I fear I might have this. I'm not quite sure. Whenever I put my hand into a fist and then try to straighten my fingers, they don't straighten all the way like they should. But the thing that worries me is that recently I've been having the same issue with my left knee as well. None of this affects me yet, there's no pain after all, but if it gets any worse or spreads to other parts of my body I might have to go to the doctor.

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  7 лет назад +1

      We would always suggest going to see a professional for things like this, nothing worse that leaving it, it getting worse and then causing long term damage. Unfortunately injury is very common in climbing and there is nothing more frustrating that having to take time out to recover. Go get it checked :)

    • @ja_fitness06
      @ja_fitness06 6 лет назад +1

      SAMEEEE but its for one finger for me

  • @adolfodavila1266
    @adolfodavila1266 4 года назад +1

    I had an accident doing mtb, I went to an orthopedic dr who recomended surgery performed by another specialist, im kinda scared, anyone had surgery couse of a problem like this, did it fix the pain and stiffness problem?

  • @NotQuiteFirst
    @NotQuiteFirst 8 лет назад +2

    Thanks good vid. Exactly what I've got in my right middle finger... :(

    • @gega27tt
      @gega27tt 8 лет назад +1

      im having it right now :( i have a competition in three weeks... did you went to an orthopedist or what happened with your healing? please answer

    • @NotQuiteFirst
      @NotQuiteFirst 8 лет назад

      gega27tt No I didn't see anyone about it. It doesn't actually affect me, and doesn't reduce my crimping strength. Though it has caused me to try to full crimp less, and I'm trying to improve my strength and technique on using an open hand as much as possible. If I stop climbing for a couple of weeks it will go mostly back to normal, but will return when I start climbing again. Good luck with the finger and your comp!

    • @Connalgood
      @Connalgood 5 лет назад

      me to

  • @bensansom3457
    @bensansom3457 8 лет назад +1

    very insightful video! thanks for this:)

  • @mirageleung
    @mirageleung 6 лет назад +2

    Thanks so much for sharing! I've just been diagnosed with osteoarthritis from climbing unfortunately, have you heard of climbers continuing to climb with osteo?

    • @jessicafike7979
      @jessicafike7979 5 лет назад +5

      I have a friend that was diagnosed with osteo arthritis in his big toe. The doctor told him climbing was no longer an option. Like most climbers he didn't want to accept this fate. He devised a plan to give his body the best chance of healing itself. For three months he would sudo fast one week each month. During his sudo fast weeks he would make a blender size "drink" of just veggies each day. He would sip on the veggie drink and would not consume any other calories. (He avoided exercise during the sudo fasting weeks.) After three months he no longer had pain in his toe. I met him a few years after this and he was still pain free.

    • @re1ss
      @re1ss 4 года назад

      @@jessicafike7979 wow madness, 'THE BODY CAN'T HEAL ITSELF' only if you get in the way of it doing so

    • @Mylada
      @Mylada 3 года назад +2

      @@jessicafike7979 That is some bullshit pseudomedicine

  • @YuvrajSingh-mt6yb
    @YuvrajSingh-mt6yb 3 года назад

    Very helpful video. Thanks 😊

  • @travit666
    @travit666 Год назад

    I'm not a climber or anything but pretty sure I have this issue in my left middle finger. If I place my hand flat all my fingers on the right hand are nice and flat where as my left hand it is all flat except for the joint of my middle finger. It's not painful or anything just confusing lol. It's slightly darker on the joint than the rest of the finger and when I wake up in morning or it's cold and I make a fist it kinda feels like it's trying to stretch over slightly. Idk how else to describe it. Been like that for maybe 1.5 years straight now

  • @Xeratas
    @Xeratas 3 года назад +1

    very helpfull thanks for the effort

  • @aalever
    @aalever 3 года назад

    I returned to climbing at 44 after a long period of absence, to the local bouldering gym. There was an overhang with a series of super crimpy holds on it, and after completing it and releasing the pressure on my fingers, they hurt in the joints. They hurt throughout the week and then again hurt the week after. We're talking mild to moderate pain after doing a crimp, and mild, barely noticeable pain throughout the week. I haven't noticed any swelling. I had assumed this was my fingers strengthening after absence, but could they be injured?

  • @hoezaylopez3817
    @hoezaylopez3817 5 лет назад +1

    I dislocated my index finger from the middle joint, Wednesday marks 3 weeks my finger is super swollen with no pain just swollen and can barley bend it do i just let it rest/heal and ill be okay and able to bend it again?😭

  • @ja_fitness06
    @ja_fitness06 6 лет назад +1

    Thanks so much I am a basketball player in trail and I smashed my finger against the rim then the next morning it was swollen AF and stiff

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  6 лет назад

      As always, worth getting it checked by a physician. Get well soon.

  • @synergymedia5424
    @synergymedia5424 6 лет назад +2

    excactly the video i needed. thanks!:)

  • @eliphas_catdaddy7982
    @eliphas_catdaddy7982 7 лет назад +1

    Thank you SO MUCH!

  • @vrgpy
    @vrgpy 2 года назад

    What its called an specialist that treats these problems? An ortopedician?, traumatologist?

  • @enniedrufu6845
    @enniedrufu6845 3 года назад +1

    Almost 3 years for me rn 😳

  • @patriklundin9973
    @patriklundin9973 8 лет назад

    Good video, do you think stretching and maybe some Light finger massage might help the recovery process?

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 лет назад +1

      Thanks, I don't think so, unfortunately there's no evidence to suggest stretching and massage make any difference

  • @ginesespadaalmansa7802
    @ginesespadaalmansa7802 6 лет назад

    Great explanation!

  • @forgetful5434
    @forgetful5434 7 месяцев назад

    How do you know so much but cant say phalanx properly? (It is not a flange)

  • @derailedtrain2517
    @derailedtrain2517 3 года назад +2

    Hey, I had this last year, and then I had a break for about 1 month, and it went away but came right back after the first month of taking back on climbing.. can you give me any advice ?

    • @pierochiarotto8620
      @pierochiarotto8620 2 года назад

      Hi, updates on your conditions?

    • @derailedtrain2517
      @derailedtrain2517 2 года назад

      @@pierochiarotto8620 almost two years of going 1/week and now it's kind of back to normal, I do 1-2 sessions a week now, plateau'ing hard but it's worth the healthy fingers

  • @predator64808
    @predator64808 8 лет назад +1

    Thank you so much!

  • @daborshy4089
    @daborshy4089 6 лет назад

    Is climbing likely to increase / speed up degeneration of the joints in the hand and fingers

  • @GMercer015
    @GMercer015 8 лет назад +1

    Great video!

  • @jrblackify
    @jrblackify 6 лет назад +2

    Conflicts with other advice from finger experts like Dave McLeod and Esther Smith though!

  • @ilickspam
    @ilickspam 3 года назад

    it seems like it'll never recover based on comments. at least for people who ignored it for a while. or could they recover if they waited longer than a year??

    • @gezzapk
      @gezzapk Год назад

      I wouldn’t rely on comments lol. Go see a doctor but I’m sure it will naturally recover if you don’t climb on it for a long time but realistically people aren’t going to do that.

  • @jdizzel9880
    @jdizzel9880 7 лет назад

    Brillant video!!!

  • @Jason47D
    @Jason47D 8 лет назад +1

    so it sounds like i have this in a few fingers. do you have any advice to help speed up recovery?

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 лет назад

      Theres no specific advice right now on how to speed up recovery, the best thing you can do is protect that finger from excessive loading and be patient.

  • @sonicgirl3582
    @sonicgirl3582 4 года назад +1

    My finger looks exactly like this right now lol and my mom isn’t taking me seriously💀 it’s because I was at pe and I hit my finger against someone but I’m not sure what I hit and my finger went numb for a while and started hurting. Do you think a splint would work??

    • @proid1296
      @proid1296 4 года назад +1

      Are you really unable to see a doctor? I wouldn't ask the internet for advise, best you see a specialist if it doesn't get better after rest

    • @sonicgirl3582
      @sonicgirl3582 4 года назад +1

      Proid12 yea I ended up getting a splint but after a couple weeks if it still doesn’t get better I’ll go to the doctor but tysm!

    • @proid1296
      @proid1296 4 года назад +1

      @@sonicgirl3582 Well, fingers crossed :P

  • @ibnekhan4923
    @ibnekhan4923 7 лет назад

    I am a martial artist.when I blocked some punches after some times my finger hurt in middle..

    • @UsualSuspectLad
      @UsualSuspectLad 5 лет назад +3

      Blocking punches with fingers isn't going to tickle

  • @bs6662
    @bs6662 5 лет назад

    My ring finger is swollen in the proximal phalange only, is that a cause for concern? Also it’s been swollen for 3 days and it is tender just wondering if that is normal

  • @leahdory
    @leahdory 4 года назад

    thank you!

  • @123JimmyTheV
    @123JimmyTheV 8 лет назад +1

    Great vid! I've recently upped my climbing training to 4 or 5 days a week and have noticed in the morning that my fingers are very stiff. After a few fist clenches and warm up style movements the pain and stiffness subsides. Could this be early signs of Synovitus? I want to keep climbing but maybe I should be resting?

    • @Obsessionclimbing
      @Obsessionclimbing  8 лет назад +1

      +James V Thanks! 4-5 days a week seems very hardcore; if your body's used to it then fair enough but I think your fingers are telling you to take an extra rest day in between. In answer to your question, it could be an early sign of Synovitis and I would personally rest up a bit more, remember to talk to your doctor if you need medical advice.

    • @123JimmyTheV
      @123JimmyTheV 8 лет назад

      +Obsession Climbing I think you're right, and I've taken a couple of days off this week and the stiffness and pain is already residing. Just need to be patient but you know how it is with climbing! Thanks for the vid and your advice, much appreciated

  • @shinrarango
    @shinrarango 6 лет назад +2

    goddamn i got this in my middle finger and i only boulder once a week! 3 weeks now and its still there 😭

    • @lordoffrog2354
      @lordoffrog2354 6 лет назад

      shinra corp any luck 5 weeks on?

    • @shinrarango
      @shinrarango 6 лет назад

      Lord Of frog no cos i keep climbing on it lol. im gona take a month of in april when i have exams i think

    • @pranavamin5755
      @pranavamin5755 6 лет назад

      Please let us know how it goes!

  • @marsocreaper
    @marsocreaper Год назад +1

    Temporary 🧐 I have this 6 years and counting

    • @marsocreaper
      @marsocreaper Год назад

      🙋🏼‍♂️ me 12 years and counting

  • @corteltube
    @corteltube 3 года назад

    Very helpful...I am a sculpter and changed my clay medium to a stiffer clay....this is when it started in that first and second joint towards the tip of my thumb....can this happen in the thumb??? With covid I have avoided going to the doctor but am using a brace...I will see a doc if it keeps up. I had in the other thumb too, but milder and it got better...

  • @BoulderConnoisseur
    @BoulderConnoisseur Год назад

    this video isn't that great, i'd highly recommend hoopers beta's video on rehab techniques for synovitis

  • @hussienali8236
    @hussienali8236 5 лет назад

    Hi, About four months ago I was injured in my middle finger of the left hand in the football match and went immediately to the hospital and worked X-ray no break and then continued treatment with my finger by snow and then by snow and heat but so far I have a type of pain and Semi heavy when bending and there is a slight crackling, my question is what is the solution? Can you tell me please ?

  • @ssaw3008
    @ssaw3008 4 года назад

    Man you repeat yourself so much! but yeah it was helpfull thanks! hey maybe using ice or hot water helps?

  • @fortynin
    @fortynin 2 года назад

    I hope you took advantage of drawing that on your finger and pretended you had a moustache

  • @massimomarengo2514
    @massimomarengo2514 8 лет назад

    0:41 It's *swollen mate xD... jokes aside keep up the good work fam

    • @jakechapman6169
      @jakechapman6169 5 лет назад

      swollen and swelled are both acceptable as the past participle of swell

  • @SD-yb5fx
    @SD-yb5fx 4 года назад +3

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    Look for signs that you are saved. Things like spreading the good news from Jesus, getting other people saved, a craving for the word of God, reading the Bible, etc… These things are known as a calling and fruit bearing. If you're not bearing fruit then keep doing it. Sometimes it takes time to get saved. Read Matthew chapter 13 from the King James Bible. God bless!!!!!