It's all here. The Secret Sauce... A bit of a long video, but if you watch it all I share everything I know! It's hard to keep it short and to say it in an easy to follow manner. With that said, here's a list of the specs on my boat and my setup... Specs- -Zippkits JAE 33FE stock kit -TP Power 4050 2580kv SVM series motor - Castle Hydra X 8s ESC -SMC HCL/HV 4400mAh 4s lipos, two in series for 8s -10AWG wiring, ESC5 lipo connectors, Castle 6.5mm motor connectors -ABC 1820-22-45(2) CLL prop - Speedmaster 21 Strut - Speedmaster 21 Rudder - All Up Weight with lipos 7lbs 1.8oz (3226g) Setup- -Stock curved turn fin set positive .1 degree -CG 1-1/2" behind back edge of turn fin - Strut down flush on bottom ski, prop shaft level - Rudder shortened to 1-1/2" below waterline - Right sponson 1/32" toe-in, rudder trimmed to run straight - Ride pads blueprinted flat with 220 grit cross-hatch pattern That's everything I've done to my boat! Study the video to see what's involved with the driving and understanding the incremental changes I made to land on this combination for my setup. That is why I made this video. It took me four years to get here. You don't have to take that long to get the same results. "Second hand gold is as good as new." As the saying goes for golden information that's passed on...
Man I just can’t imagine how you’d go on a longer run your literally just touching full revs but it takes time for the boat to catch up to the revs. So exciting.
Hey Sam finally got my rigger back together. First proper run today 169 kmh (105.5 mph) Still running 1650 kv 4060 tp cheap 2x4s HRB 5000 mah 100 c lipo’s Ztw 200 seal esc, so a pretty heavy set up. With dasboata 1820 abc Not sure if it’s faster than the abc 1917 I sharpened and balanced myself,but it run very straight no torque steer. I broke the golden rule, and did two things at once. I offset the rear sponson and the motor at the same time as the prop change. So I’m not sure if it’s the offset drive or the prop that fixed the torque steer. I can’t go back to try the 1917 prop now as it was damaged by the strut coming loose and contacting the rudder on the first run after the rear ski offset.
Good for you! Back on the water!That's a nice run with those electronics! Isn't that a new PR? I'm very curious, how much did you offset the motor and rear ski?
@@chilly7261 PB means personal best. What’s PR mean ( I know you use PR ) I just figure it was something similar. I offset the centre of the stub shaft ( and the motor)1/2” to the right from the centreline of the rear of the tub. My tub is 122 mm wide so my guess is it would be hard to offset narrower boats that far. I didn’t move the rear ski that far as it would have uncovered the old hole where the brass tube went through into the tub (I did fill it in though) This meant my rear strut is sitting against the RH inside side of my rear ski.( looking forward) another reason I didn’t move the ski as far was I was concerned with upsetting the balance at the tail. In the end I’m not sure if my concerns mattered. Like I said it might just be the really thin hardened dasboata prop that cured it or a bit of both. I don’t know how to add photos here and I’m not sure how to email you. Your email that’s shown here seams incomplete starting with the @ symbol.
@@jamesatkinson7517 Funny, I never noticed, but yeah, Personal Best(Record). Wow, you moved the ski/ motor 1/2" to the right? I've read about doing that, but had no idea how much. My email is samhallstrom@live.com Def send me some pics...
Thank you! Man I feel for you. Knowing you got to be dying to get out and send it again. Up north we don't have a long summer season or many glass water days. I almost didn't go, now this evening it's raining. Rainy weather until Wednesday. Send it when you can Big B! I'll be watching...
Not a chance. That's not how LVC works. It would simply reduce throttle. That was surging at 99 mph until I let off. And that's a brand new fully charged SMC lipo on first pass...
@@chilly7261 Don't wont to be smart. I have monster x8s in my sonic wake v2 and if i setup to auto cell cutoff to 3.5v It act like on/off when had full triger. If I change to no cutoff ther was no issue any more.
@@gidohc Oh! Thank you! What a great tip! I will def try that. Should not be a problem because I watch my temps and how much I discharge my lipos. I wasn't buying what you said at first, but I'm always open to good info. Again, thank you for taking the time to explain...
@@gidohcI checked the Data Log. You're spot on! On the 6s SMC HV lipo the volts WERE just barely dipping below LVC. On the 6s SMC SRD 250C lipo and on the 8s SMC HV lipos they never sagged below LVC. I disabled the LVC, will limit my runs. I always watch my temps and volts anyway. Here's some Data Log info. All max numbers... -57,674 rpm's -209 amps -7705 watts (10.33 hp) That's pretty extreme. This TP Power SVM 4050 2580 kv motor is 6400 watt max rated! Here's a question. With my temps well below dangerous levels (118 F on motor was the highest), is that a good indicator my electronics will hold up? Appreciate ya! That's good stuff...
I’m running a 4s 4.35v hv gnb lipo with a Seaking pro esc getting perfect 4 beeps and it gave me an extra 3 kmh (1.8 mph) over the 4.2 volt pack. I thought I as doing good at 121 kmh out of this 26” rigger using a little 29 mm motor. My 3 kmh improvement is nothing compared to what your achieving on improving this 33 lately.
It's has to be everything I'm doing all coming together. Boat tune, prop prep, electronics, lipos and driving. This summer is the most I've ran my boats. Careful setup changes and lots of tips from others like yourself. I feel like I've learned so much. I can hardly believe it after trying to go fast for four years...
Hello Sam. Another nice run and Video.. is it possible to read the esc rpm iut.. has it logging? Would be interesting to see the rpm you had on full throttle.. wbr
Yes. I checked the data logging for the runs in the 119 mph video. On 8s it hit 57,674 max rpm's. Max watts was 7,705(10.33 horse power). Max amps draw was 290. Pretty crazy numbers I think...
@@chilly7261 thx SAM, your pond is very small. if you can stay longer on trigger there would be much more possible... but please do not destroy that nice rigger
sam, move to 8mm bullets. cut off the battery wires to 1 inch. cutoff the ESC wires to 1-2" (unless theyre 8awg). run 8awg all the way between the battery and esc.
I just ran 119 mph and my highest temp is the motor at 118 degrees and you telling me that? ESC 104 degrees. Lipos 100 degrees. Connectors 99 degrees. And I made three runs...
The flycolor150 is rated higher than the cc hydra x 150 vs 140 and it burst is higher I wonder if (on 6s only) would it be worth a try given you got 114 mph on 6s. There is a guy that modded the cooling on a flycolor 150 and improved it so much. It’s just the cost of the 8s cc hydra is over $500 Australia dollars If no one has tried the flycolor I’m getting one to do the cooling mod and give it a try. I have the tp4050 2580 svm coming. And I have a dasboata 1820 I’ll let you know how it goes unless of course you beat me too it. it will be a few weeks coming though.
Oh yeah! New motor! Yes, from what I've seen the Flycolor 150 is a great esc. It's just not 8s, although as you've seen, I ran pretty fast on 6s with the TP 2580kv motor. Fwiw, read on Castle's website and they question other's esc ratings. I lean towards Castle not over rating their esc's, they're a great company. But back to running the TP 2580 kv motor on the FC 150. I did run the TP 2310 kv motor on the FC 150 with no issues. Give it a go James, should be ok...
I’ve been watching you closely, as I also built the same hull this summer.. Can you please explain why ose says keep your prop speed below 38,000rpm? Clearly your having amazing results running at 300% of recommended parameters
I sure can. So you don't overheat your electronics running laps. A lap setup is wetter, causes more drag, especially on the corners. For these high speed runs, the setup is very loose. I'm also keeping a close eye on temps. Run four laps with this setup and I'll get a smoke show...
I hear that! I’m running a hydra xlx2 now because the ose 180a went up in smoke, took a battery with it.. I’m just going to get the same motor as you. It’s a tp power 4050 2580kv svm? Didn’t you have a tp 2310kv ? 79,464rpm was not fast enough for you 😂 Thanks for your reply
@@ryanjohnson3951 I thought the TP 2310kv motor failed on me. So yes, I replaced it with the TP 2580kv SVM series motor. Now I've had my Neu 2050kv motor and the TP 2580kv motor surge and not reach full rpm running the SMC high voltage 6s lipo on the Castle Hydra X. I just got a great comment to turn off the LVC in the Castle Hydra X to stop that issue. So the TP 2310kv motor may be good. No surging on the Castle Hydra X running on 8s, but I ran the TP 2310kv motor on 6s with a HK 180 amp esc. I have to test it with the 6s 22.2 volt SRD 250C discharge lipo. It just takes time doing motor swaps and testing... But I learned you can really stress the electronics on SAW runs. Just have to watch the temps. I've done six runs on 8s without issue. SAW runs are only seconds long. For sure would smoke this setup running laps...
No. I run a water pickup rudder on all my boats. Never heard of water cooling lipos. The heat is actually good for them. Releases power better. Something off with the setup if the lipos are overheating.
@@georgem.6136 Yeah, this reservoir is ten minutes away. I get more runs in, get to test more different setups. I've done pretty well in this little pond tho...
It's all here. The Secret Sauce...
A bit of a long video, but if you watch it all I share everything I know!
It's hard to keep it short and to say it in an easy to follow manner. With that said, here's a list of the specs on my boat and my setup...
Specs-
-Zippkits JAE 33FE stock kit
-TP Power 4050 2580kv SVM series motor
- Castle Hydra X 8s ESC
-SMC HCL/HV 4400mAh 4s lipos, two in series for 8s
-10AWG wiring, ESC5 lipo connectors, Castle 6.5mm motor connectors
-ABC 1820-22-45(2) CLL prop
- Speedmaster 21 Strut
- Speedmaster 21 Rudder
- All Up Weight with lipos 7lbs 1.8oz (3226g)
Setup-
-Stock curved turn fin set positive .1 degree
-CG 1-1/2" behind back edge of turn fin
- Strut down flush on bottom ski, prop shaft level
- Rudder shortened to 1-1/2" below waterline
- Right sponson 1/32" toe-in, rudder trimmed to run straight
- Ride pads blueprinted flat with 220 grit cross-hatch pattern
That's everything I've done to my boat!
Study the video to see what's involved with the driving and understanding the incremental changes I made to land on this combination for my setup.
That is why I made this video. It took me four years to get here. You don't have to take that long to get the same results.
"Second hand gold is as good as new."
As the saying goes for golden information that's passed on...
Man I just can’t imagine how you’d go on a longer run your literally just touching full revs but it takes time for the boat to catch up to the revs.
So exciting.
Thank you!
Hey Sam finally got my rigger back together.
First proper run today 169 kmh (105.5 mph)
Still running 1650 kv 4060 tp cheap 2x4s HRB 5000 mah 100 c lipo’s
Ztw 200 seal esc, so a pretty heavy set up.
With dasboata 1820 abc
Not sure if it’s faster than the abc 1917 I sharpened and balanced myself,but it run very straight no torque steer.
I broke the golden rule, and did two things at once.
I offset the rear sponson and the motor at the same time as the prop change.
So I’m not sure if it’s the offset drive or the prop that fixed the torque steer.
I can’t go back to try the 1917 prop now as it was damaged by the strut coming loose and contacting the rudder on the first run after the rear ski offset.
Good for you! Back on the water!That's a nice run with those electronics! Isn't that a new PR?
I'm very curious, how much did you offset the motor and rear ski?
@@chilly7261 PB means personal best.
What’s PR mean ( I know you use PR )
I just figure it was something similar.
I offset the centre of the stub shaft ( and the motor)1/2” to the right from the centreline of the rear of the tub.
My tub is 122 mm wide so my guess is it would be hard to offset narrower boats that far.
I didn’t move the rear ski that far as it would have uncovered the old hole where the brass tube went through into the tub (I did fill it in though)
This meant my rear strut is sitting against the RH inside side of my rear ski.( looking forward)
another reason I didn’t move the ski as far was I was concerned with upsetting the balance at the tail.
In the end I’m not sure if my concerns mattered.
Like I said it might just be the really thin hardened dasboata prop that cured it or a bit of both.
I don’t know how to add photos here and I’m not sure how to email you. Your email that’s shown here seams incomplete starting with the @ symbol.
@@jamesatkinson7517 Funny, I never noticed, but yeah, Personal Best(Record).
Wow, you moved the ski/ motor 1/2" to the right? I've read about doing that, but had no idea how much.
My email is samhallstrom@live.com
Def send me some pics...
Just out here looking at riggers, and wow! That is insanely fast for the water 🤯
That's fucking awesome. I've never seen an RC boat go that fast. I totally want to build one now.
Lol! Thanks!
WOW!! That just makes me want to get one and send it!!! Great Job Brother!!
@@RDM3DLAB Thanks!
Holy smokes, congrats!
Makes me wannna run mine, but i got a tropical storm off shore, blowing a gail every day.
Thank you! Man I feel for you. Knowing you got to be dying to get out and send it again. Up north we don't have a long summer season or many glass water days. I almost didn't go, now this evening it's raining. Rainy weather until Wednesday. Send it when you can Big B! I'll be watching...
WOW!! HOLY SH!T!!! That thing is fast asf!!!
That was awesome, congrats!! Love how they sound at such high RPM
Thanks! And I agree on the sound. Love me some RPM's!
The last run, ESC cutoff, because voltage drop undder yours voltage cutoff treshold. Check the graph and you will see.
Not a chance. That's not how LVC works. It would simply reduce throttle. That was surging at 99 mph until I let off. And that's a brand new fully charged SMC lipo on first pass...
@@chilly7261 Don't wont to be smart. I have monster x8s in my sonic wake v2 and if i setup to auto cell cutoff to 3.5v It act like on/off when had full triger. If I change to no cutoff ther was no issue any more.
@@gidohc Oh! Thank you! What a great tip! I will def try that. Should not be a problem because I watch my temps and how much I discharge my lipos.
I wasn't buying what you said at first, but I'm always open to good info. Again, thank you for taking the time to explain...
@@chilly7261 no problem, I really enjoy watching your videos. Hope to be more videos like this👍
@@gidohcI checked the Data Log. You're spot on!
On the 6s SMC HV lipo the volts WERE just barely dipping below LVC.
On the 6s SMC SRD 250C lipo and on the 8s SMC HV lipos they never sagged below LVC.
I disabled the LVC, will limit my runs. I always watch my temps and volts anyway.
Here's some Data Log info. All max numbers...
-57,674 rpm's
-209 amps
-7705 watts (10.33 hp)
That's pretty extreme. This TP Power SVM 4050 2580 kv motor is 6400 watt max rated!
Here's a question. With my temps well below dangerous levels (118 F on motor was the highest), is that a good indicator my electronics will hold up?
Appreciate ya! That's good stuff...
Excellent work, congratulations!
Thank you!
I’m running a 4s 4.35v hv gnb lipo with a Seaking pro esc getting perfect 4 beeps and it gave me an extra 3 kmh (1.8 mph) over the 4.2 volt pack.
I thought I as doing good at 121 kmh out of this 26” rigger using a little 29 mm motor.
My 3 kmh improvement is nothing compared to what your achieving on improving this 33 lately.
It's has to be everything I'm doing all coming together. Boat tune, prop prep, electronics, lipos and driving. This summer is the most I've ran my boats. Careful setup changes and lots of tips from others like yourself. I feel like I've learned so much. I can hardly believe it after trying to go fast for four years...
If your running saw wouldn’t it be better to remove the turn fin ?
Hello Sam. Another nice run and Video.. is it possible to read the esc rpm iut.. has it logging? Would be interesting to see the rpm you had on full throttle.. wbr
Yes. I checked the data logging for the runs in the 119 mph video. On 8s it hit 57,674 max rpm's. Max watts was 7,705(10.33 horse power). Max amps draw was 290. Pretty crazy numbers I think...
@@chilly7261 thx SAM, your pond is very small. if you can stay longer on trigger there would be much more possible... but please do not destroy that nice rigger
@@capitanoalex Thanks! Lol! I'm with you on that. I've been pushing it and been lucky so far. It's really running great, very predictable...
Excellent! Great run and video
Thank you my man! That's getting up there pretty good, running with the Big Dogs I would say, lol...
Yes sir, for sure . Big dog territory for sure.
sam, move to 8mm bullets. cut off the battery wires to 1 inch. cutoff the ESC wires to 1-2" (unless theyre 8awg). run 8awg all the way between the battery and esc.
I just ran 119 mph and my highest temp is the motor at 118 degrees and you telling me that? ESC 104 degrees. Lipos 100 degrees. Connectors 99 degrees. And I made three runs...
@@chilly7261 every little bit can help get you even more.
The flycolor150 is rated higher than the cc hydra x 150 vs 140 and it burst is higher
I wonder if (on 6s only) would it be worth a try given you got 114 mph on 6s.
There is a guy that modded the cooling on a flycolor 150 and improved it so much.
It’s just the cost of the 8s cc hydra is over $500 Australia dollars If no one has tried the flycolor I’m getting one to do the cooling mod and give it a try.
I have the tp4050 2580 svm coming.
And I have a dasboata 1820
I’ll let you know how it goes unless of course you beat me too it.
it will be a few weeks coming though.
Oh yeah! New motor! Yes, from what I've seen the Flycolor 150 is a great esc. It's just not 8s, although as you've seen, I ran pretty fast on 6s with the TP 2580kv motor.
Fwiw, read on Castle's website and they question other's esc ratings. I lean towards Castle not over rating their esc's, they're a great company.
But back to running the TP 2580 kv motor on the FC 150. I did run the TP 2310 kv motor on the FC 150 with no issues. Give it a go James, should be ok...
I’ve been watching you closely, as I also built the same hull this summer..
Can you please explain why ose says keep your prop speed below 38,000rpm?
Clearly your having amazing results running at 300% of recommended parameters
I sure can. So you don't overheat your electronics running laps. A lap setup is wetter, causes more drag, especially on the corners.
For these high speed runs, the setup is very loose. I'm also keeping a close eye on temps. Run four laps with this setup and I'll get a smoke show...
I hear that! I’m running a hydra xlx2 now because the ose 180a went up in smoke, took a battery with it.. I’m just going to get the same motor as you.
It’s a tp power 4050 2580kv svm?
Didn’t you have a tp 2310kv ?
79,464rpm was not fast enough for you 😂
Thanks for your reply
@@ryanjohnson3951 I thought the TP 2310kv motor failed on me. So yes, I replaced it with the TP 2580kv SVM series motor. Now I've had my Neu 2050kv motor and the TP 2580kv motor surge and not reach full rpm running the SMC high voltage 6s lipo on the Castle Hydra X. I just got a great comment to turn off the LVC in the Castle Hydra X to stop that issue. So the TP 2310kv motor may be good. No surging on the Castle Hydra X running on 8s, but I ran the TP 2310kv motor on 6s with a HK 180 amp esc. I have to test it with the 6s 22.2 volt SRD 250C discharge lipo. It just takes time doing motor swaps and testing...
But I learned you can really stress the electronics on SAW runs. Just have to watch the temps. I've done six runs on 8s without issue. SAW runs are only seconds long. For sure would smoke this setup running laps...
do you have a seprate water pump ? is anyone running water cooled lipos ?
No. I run a water pickup rudder on all my boats. Never heard of water cooling lipos. The heat is actually good for them. Releases power better. Something off with the setup if the lipos are overheating.
ok freaking love it keep going I think that would of been a 120 mph
Thank you! Oh I couldn't agree more, another second of full trigger and we'll be right there...
may I ask what size battery Connectors you are using @@chilly7261
What the Motor in it tp ? and kv ?
I listed all the specs in my pinned comment...
Find another location with more room, you will be faster!
I KNOW THAT, but next closest inland lake is 40 minutes away...
@@chilly7261 haha I figured, same boat I’m in & I just won’t do salt water
@@georgem.6136 Yeah, this reservoir is ten minutes away. I get more runs in, get to test more different setups. I've done pretty well in this little pond tho...