I have put 2new coils on my 750 virago year 1992 , with no problem, my main problem was the carbs had gunge in them,stopping the petrol getting through , so stripped them down and sonic cleaned them , then put all new jets and gaskets in , I don’t have that small hose going to that box , I think it’s because my bike is a UK model, nice to see you explain about the coils and Leeds. I got my 2 from a motorcycle repair shop and were maid in the UK .
Thankyou for a very informative video. I'm from over the pond. Virago xv1100 coils needed changing,new plugs ngkbps7es, new caps 5k. Runs like a dream. Thanks.
Thanks for a very comprehensive summer semester type class on this system. Awesome. The NGK 1k caps are now not available, though. No luck on subs. For reasons I cannot understand I cannot measure the resistor in the stock caps on one I pulled this morning in pajamas. File, scrape, new batteries, and check several resistors in parts box. Three Viragos in garage so will play some more but leaning to a piece of 6 or 8g copper down the rabbit hole. Still got about 50 of your videos to go. Enjoy
Thanks for that - I really appreciate the time you took to comment. This was one of my earlier videos and I was still trying to find my way when it came to these videos and my restoration project. One thing to always keep in mind is that the cap resistor is optional. It's there to suppress noise and for no other reason. I like to eliminate things like cap resistors when I troubleshoot because they can be so temperamental. The wires themselves break down and I find that causes more problems than anything else. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Ken, did you know that the resistor in the cap can be removed and replaced with a brass conductor, and thus limit the overall ignition resistance to the plug's 5K? Look inside the original cap and you'll see a flat screw head. Carefully unscrew it and allow the 5K resistor and tension spring to fall out. Check and clean any corrosion. I now run the BKR 5K plugs with a solid piece of brass in the cap. 😎
Yep...I did but thanks for highlighting that. My problem was that the dude before me changed out the caps and not only were they not OEM, but they were of different resistor values too. And you're right about most of the old caps - the resistor can be screwed out and you'll see it - usually looks like a small fuse. Problem is now, the OEM BP7ES plugs are obsolete and the caps need to be of lesser overall resistance to match the original system resistance if you buy 5K plugs. These days, most caps have the resister moulded right in and it can't be removed. Not a big deal since the caps I bought were only $5 each.
Thanks Donny - really means a lot knowing someone from the other side of the planet is watching along. Those BP7ES plugs are nearly impossible to find here. Thanks for the comments - they're always appreciated. Keep watching...got a couple more coming soon.
Glad I could help. That's what this is all about for me. Just trying to have fun and find my way. If someone else benefits, that's awesome. Peace back.
Good point. I actually didn’t measure the resistance of the new coils. But I’m sure with today’s technology, much of the copper wire today is manufactured to different standards than from 40 years ago - low oxygen copper is common today. I’d say, yes, lower is better (to a point - obviously you don’t want to read a short). One of the biggest problems that people overlook, including licensed mechanics, is the health of the rubber insulation. I’ve seen coil wires misbehave even when measured to spec - this is because the insulation breaks down and the high voltage goes to ground (arcing to the frame, engine, etc). This is more apparent when the coil wires get wet. I’d say any reasonable resistance on the primary or secondary that is close to the shop manual spec is going to be ok. Just keep your eyes on the aging rubber parts too.
@@arizonaangler_2A In electrical theory, I=E/R where I is current, E is electromotive force (voltage) and R is resistance. Anytime you increase the resistance, current flow is inversely proportional. So if theoretical voltage remains constant (E) and you increase R, I (current) decreases. Creating a gap between the boot and the plug doesn’t change resistance in the circuit at all, you’re just unloading a massive amount of energy that the coils couldn’t dissipate when the plug wasn’t attached to the spark plug. When it comes to the high voltage and short duration (microseconds) of a spark event, there’s a lot more going on that just basic DC electric theory. What you’re seeing is a result of reactance, capacitance and inductance in the circuit that would be very difficult to diagnose. But basic DC electric theory is pretty clear, add more resistance and the current goes down. Decrease the resistance and the current goes up - just short out a battery with a screwdriver to prove it works. Long explanation but I hope it helps.
Try these from Caltric - I've heard that their coil replacement works well. www.amazon.com/Caltric-IGNITION-YAMAHA-XV-1100-1986-1999/dp/B014WWUU74/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1WW2FIQDM69YD&keywords=Yamaha+Virago+1100+ignition+coil&qid=1658447951&sprefix=yamaha+virago+1100+ignition+coil%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-7#customerReviews I'll take you up on any beer offer!!! Cheers!
I have the type of cap that requires that the nut stay on the plug. You can buy the caps either way. But good point for everyone to know that you have to match everything - even making sure that your cap is designed for a nut or thread.
Hello Ken. Thanks for your great video's. We chatted a while ago. I'm having trouble ! I had a mechanic clean and set the carbs. Didn't feel I could do it myself. When I collected the bike it sounded great at tick over. Riding only 7 miles home it ran terrible. When I arrived home it cut out and wouldnt start again. Misfiring whilst trying. Now it doesn't even offer to start. I checked the fuel pump, checked the coils ,leads and caps using a multimeter all good. It's had new plugs, cleaned out the fuel tanks and replaced the fuel filter. Any advice where to go next ?
Firstly, you may want to just take the bike back and explain what happened (or call your mechanic over the phone). He may have a quick solution (ie. forgot something). Otherwise, go back to the plugs first. Pull them out and have a look - they tell a story and never lie. Since it was just recently serviced and the plugs were new, if after just a short ride they are light brown with little signs of combustion, then you are getting fuel starvation. That could be caused by sticking floats - a VERY common problem right after a full carb overhaul. If you can, remove the rubber air inlets at the carbs so you can see the CV throttle plunger. During start you should be able to see fuel spraying (like an aerosol can) from the base of the needle. If not, your floats may be sticking. Tap the float bowls with the base of a screwdriver handle (gently but firmly). This will dislodge the needle and start the flow of fuel into the float bowl. If your floats are stuck open, there should be the tell-tale sign of fuel seeping from the float bowl area. That would also cause a very rich condition leading to plug fouling and misfires. If the plugs are loaded up with soot and wet, then it’s obviously rich. The rich state with misfiring can caused by so many things. New caps & plugs don’t mean anything if they’re not the right ones. Old viragos had NGK BP7ES (no resistor) and a 5K resistor in the cap - as I mentioned in this video, they are near impossible to find, and with older caps and a 5K resistor type plug (BPR7ES), you’ll have reduced spark intensity. Visually check the quality of the spark (both) by pulling the plug and grounding the case against the cylinder and cranking the engine. it should make a distinct snapping sound and look bright bluish-white. I’ve seen underperforming coils, caps & plugs measure to spec but still be inadequate to produce a healthy spark for strong combustion. Hope this helps.
@@KensWorldRestorationsHi, spoke to the mechanic and he's sure it's not a fuel issue. I have a spark on the front plug, but none on the rear. The spark plugs are the type recommended. But I'm not sure about the caps. I'm currently replacing the rectifier, but screws are seized. Waiting for wd40 to work it's magic 🤞 But if there was an electrical fault would I be getting a spark on the front? Both coils seem to be as they should be.
@@mickleyland5057 Ok…good start. Remember the Virago needs a strong battery to start because the TCI feeds the coil voltage directly from the battery. If the battery is low on start, the spark is weak. YES, you can have one cylinder firing and one not. One cylinder firing is usually a sign of a loose wire somewhere. Check the wire connection from the TCI unit (on the front of the rear fender - a bit of a schmuck to get at) and make sure the coil wires are tight and clean and make sure the cap and plug are all sorted out. If it’s the rear cylinder, I’ve seen MANY Virago coil HT leads short out against the frame due to the rubber breaking down. If you feel even a mild electric jolt anywhere along the high voltage leads (including the caps) there is stray voltage leaking and it will find its way to ground very quickly. Keep plugging away…you’re getting close.
I'm not sure I understand the question. If you replace the OEM coils with another brand, the OEM spec in the manual no longer applies - you'll need to follow the specification of the new coils. Does that answer your question?
see if you can isolate the fault by switching the leads from the ECU. Try isolating the caps and plugs as well by switching them from coil to coil and see if the problem follows the coil or the component.
I use the NGK BPR7ES Iridium plugs now but I have replaced the OEM plug cap (that had a 5K resistor in it) with an NGK cap with only 1K. This setup seems to work really well.
What are the signs that coils are bad? My 1997 with only 700 miles sat for 25 yrs, carbs cleaned, got it running. Rides for about 10 miles then when it gets very hot, it sputters out and dies. Let it sit for 10 mins, restarts like nothing happened.
The signs aren't always obvious but if you are 100% sure everything else in the chain is working perfectly, then age is the biggest factor. The most obvious sign in that the spark isn't a bright blue, snappy spark. If they're that old, probably a good idea to change them. These Virago coils have the high voltage output cable molded right into the coil pack and 99% of the time, it's the wires that are breaking down. It's usually corrosion of the copper conductor or the rubber insulation breaking down. If you've got heat issues, it may be the ignitor module/TCI unit. The electronics in that thing can sometimes be sensitive to heat. If your bike sat for 25 years, I'd say anything rubber is toast (seals, o-rings and ignition wires/caps).
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
stop waving the pen and fingers
@@annonym2170 I’ve got PTSD from the first Gulf War in 1990 and diagnosed with OCD and I’m dyslexic. This is who I am.
@@KensWorldRestorationsthank you for visualy explaining with your hands and a pointer, I found this very helpful
I have put 2new coils on my 750 virago year 1992 , with no problem, my main problem was the carbs had gunge in them,stopping the petrol getting through , so stripped them down and sonic cleaned them , then put all new jets and gaskets in , I don’t have that small hose going to that box , I think it’s because my bike is a UK model, nice to see you explain about the coils and Leeds. I got my 2 from a motorcycle repair shop and were maid in the UK .
Thankyou for a very informative video. I'm from over the pond. Virago xv1100 coils needed changing,new plugs ngkbps7es, new caps 5k. Runs like a dream. Thanks.
This is so cool. I’m glad the video was helpful and I really appreciate the wonderful comment!!
Thanks for a very comprehensive summer semester type class on this system. Awesome. The NGK 1k caps are now not available, though. No luck on subs. For reasons I cannot understand I cannot measure the resistor in the stock caps on one I pulled this morning in pajamas. File, scrape, new batteries, and check several resistors in parts box. Three Viragos in garage so will play some more but leaning to a piece of 6 or 8g copper down the rabbit hole. Still got about 50 of your videos to go. Enjoy
Thanks for that - I really appreciate the time you took to comment. This was one of my earlier videos and I was still trying to find my way when it came to these videos and my restoration project. One thing to always keep in mind is that the cap resistor is optional. It's there to suppress noise and for no other reason. I like to eliminate things like cap resistors when I troubleshoot because they can be so temperamental. The wires themselves break down and I find that causes more problems than anything else. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Ken, did you know that the resistor in the cap can be removed and replaced with a brass conductor, and thus limit the overall ignition resistance to the plug's 5K? Look inside the original cap and you'll see a flat screw head. Carefully unscrew it and allow the 5K resistor and tension spring to fall out. Check and clean any corrosion. I now run the BKR 5K plugs with a solid piece of brass in the cap. 😎
Yep...I did but thanks for highlighting that. My problem was that the dude before me changed out the caps and not only were they not OEM, but they were of different resistor values too. And you're right about most of the old caps - the resistor can be screwed out and you'll see it - usually looks like a small fuse. Problem is now, the OEM BP7ES plugs are obsolete and the caps need to be of lesser overall resistance to match the original system resistance if you buy 5K plugs. These days, most caps have the resister moulded right in and it can't be removed. Not a big deal since the caps I bought were only $5 each.
Thank you for this awesome video.I learned more in this video than at school.😁👍💯💯💯
I'm glad you found it helpful!! Hope you get your bike running well.
Yet another useful video! I got BP7ES plugs and a Hendler ignition coil from Wemoto Australia
Thanks Donny - really means a lot knowing someone from the other side of the planet is watching along. Those BP7ES plugs are nearly impossible to find here. Thanks for the comments - they're always appreciated. Keep watching...got a couple more coming soon.
I have the same luck, thanks for the detailed video ...lifesaver. God bless u brother. Peace
Glad I could help. That's what this is all about for me. Just trying to have fun and find my way. If someone else benefits, that's awesome. Peace back.
Great video, lots of good information.
Thanks!!
I measured new coils I got they are at 2.7 ohms my stock ones 4.2 to 4.5 I would assume lower resistance be better did u test your new coils
Good point. I actually didn’t measure the resistance of the new coils. But I’m sure with today’s technology, much of the copper wire today is manufactured to different standards than from 40 years ago - low oxygen copper is common today. I’d say, yes, lower is better (to a point - obviously you don’t want to read a short). One of the biggest problems that people overlook, including licensed mechanics, is the health of the rubber insulation. I’ve seen coil wires misbehave even when measured to spec - this is because the insulation breaks down and the high voltage goes to ground (arcing to the frame, engine, etc). This is more apparent when the coil wires get wet. I’d say any reasonable resistance on the primary or secondary that is close to the shop manual spec is going to be ok. Just keep your eyes on the aging rubber parts too.
if more resistance = less voltage how is it you can get fouled plugs to fire by creating a gap between the boot and plug (increasing resistance)?
@@arizonaangler_2A In electrical theory, I=E/R where I is current, E is electromotive force (voltage) and R is resistance. Anytime you increase the resistance, current flow is inversely proportional. So if theoretical voltage remains constant (E) and you increase R, I (current) decreases. Creating a gap between the boot and the plug doesn’t change resistance in the circuit at all, you’re just unloading a massive amount of energy that the coils couldn’t dissipate when the plug wasn’t attached to the spark plug. When it comes to the high voltage and short duration (microseconds) of a spark event, there’s a lot more going on that just basic DC electric theory. What you’re seeing is a result of reactance, capacitance and inductance in the circuit that would be very difficult to diagnose. But basic DC electric theory is pretty clear, add more resistance and the current goes down. Decrease the resistance and the current goes up - just short out a battery with a screwdriver to prove it works. Long explanation but I hope it helps.
@@KensWorldRestorations ahh I see, thanks
You have an Amazon or Ebay link for coils for a 1997 XV750? Also, if you're ever riding around philly, lets grab a beer. 😎
Try these from Caltric - I've heard that their coil replacement works well.
www.amazon.com/Caltric-IGNITION-YAMAHA-XV-1100-1986-1999/dp/B014WWUU74/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1WW2FIQDM69YD&keywords=Yamaha+Virago+1100+ignition+coil&qid=1658447951&sprefix=yamaha+virago+1100+ignition+coil%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-7#customerReviews
I'll take you up on any beer offer!!! Cheers!
You keep the nut on top of your spark plugs? The cap doesn’t fit correctly with the nut on the top.
I have the type of cap that requires that the nut stay on the plug. You can buy the caps either way. But good point for everyone to know that you have to match everything - even making sure that your cap is designed for a nut or thread.
Hello Ken. Thanks for your great video's. We chatted a while ago.
I'm having trouble ! I had a mechanic clean and set the carbs. Didn't feel I could do it myself.
When I collected the bike it sounded great at tick over. Riding only 7 miles home it ran terrible.
When I arrived home it cut out and wouldnt start again. Misfiring whilst trying. Now it doesn't even offer to start.
I checked the fuel pump, checked the coils ,leads and caps using a multimeter all good. It's had new plugs, cleaned out the fuel tanks and replaced the fuel filter.
Any advice where to go next ?
Firstly, you may want to just take the bike back and explain what happened (or call your mechanic over the phone). He may have a quick solution (ie. forgot something).
Otherwise, go back to the plugs first. Pull them out and have a look - they tell a story and never lie. Since it was just recently serviced and the plugs were new, if after just a short ride they are light brown with little signs of combustion, then you are getting fuel starvation. That could be caused by sticking floats - a VERY common problem right after a full carb overhaul. If you can, remove the rubber air inlets at the carbs so you can see the CV throttle plunger. During start you should be able to see fuel spraying (like an aerosol can) from the base of the needle. If not, your floats may be sticking. Tap the float bowls with the base of a screwdriver handle (gently but firmly). This will dislodge the needle and start the flow of fuel into the float bowl. If your floats are stuck open, there should be the tell-tale sign of fuel seeping from the float bowl area. That would also cause a very rich condition leading to plug fouling and misfires.
If the plugs are loaded up with soot and wet, then it’s obviously rich. The rich state with misfiring can caused by so many things. New caps & plugs don’t mean anything if they’re not the right ones. Old viragos had NGK BP7ES (no resistor) and a 5K resistor in the cap - as I mentioned in this video, they are near impossible to find, and with older caps and a 5K resistor type plug (BPR7ES), you’ll have reduced spark intensity. Visually check the quality of the spark (both) by pulling the plug and grounding the case against the cylinder and cranking the engine. it should make a distinct snapping sound and look bright bluish-white. I’ve seen underperforming coils, caps & plugs measure to spec but still be inadequate to produce a healthy spark for strong combustion.
Hope this helps.
Great advice Ken. I've made al start 🤞
@@mickleyland5057 Awesome Mick…keep me posted. K
@@KensWorldRestorationsHi, spoke to the mechanic and he's sure it's not a fuel issue. I have a spark on the front plug, but none on the rear. The spark plugs are the type recommended. But I'm not sure about the caps.
I'm currently replacing the rectifier, but screws are seized. Waiting for wd40 to work it's magic 🤞
But if there was an electrical fault would I be getting a spark on the front?
Both coils seem to be as they should be.
@@mickleyland5057 Ok…good start. Remember the Virago needs a strong battery to start because the TCI feeds the coil voltage directly from the battery. If the battery is low on start, the spark is weak. YES, you can have one cylinder firing and one not. One cylinder firing is usually a sign of a loose wire somewhere. Check the wire connection from the TCI unit (on the front of the rear fender - a bit of a schmuck to get at) and make sure the coil wires are tight and clean and make sure the cap and plug are all sorted out. If it’s the rear cylinder, I’ve seen MANY Virago coil HT leads short out against the frame due to the rubber breaking down. If you feel even a mild electric jolt anywhere along the high voltage leads (including the caps) there is stray voltage leaking and it will find its way to ground very quickly. Keep plugging away…you’re getting close.
Is it okay to add 4.5 ohms coils for virago?
I'm not sure I understand the question. If you replace the OEM coils with another brand, the OEM spec in the manual no longer applies - you'll need to follow the specification of the new coils. Does that answer your question?
After putting on new coils I have spark in the rear cylinder but not the front
see if you can isolate the fault by switching the leads from the ECU. Try isolating the caps and plugs as well by switching them from coil to coil and see if the problem follows the coil or the component.
What type of boegie you use now? Instead of the BP7ES?
I use the NGK BPR7ES Iridium plugs now but I have replaced the OEM plug cap (that had a 5K resistor in it) with an NGK cap with only 1K. This setup seems to work really well.
What are the signs that coils are bad? My 1997 with only 700 miles sat for 25 yrs, carbs cleaned, got it running. Rides for about 10 miles then when it gets very hot, it sputters out and dies. Let it sit for 10 mins, restarts like nothing happened.
The signs aren't always obvious but if you are 100% sure everything else in the chain is working perfectly, then age is the biggest factor. The most obvious sign in that the spark isn't a bright blue, snappy spark. If they're that old, probably a good idea to change them.
These Virago coils have the high voltage output cable molded right into the coil pack and 99% of the time, it's the wires that are breaking down. It's usually corrosion of the copper conductor or the rubber insulation breaking down. If you've got heat issues, it may be the ignitor module/TCI unit. The electronics in that thing can sometimes be sensitive to heat. If your bike sat for 25 years, I'd say anything rubber is toast (seals, o-rings and ignition wires/caps).
Did you figure this out? Having this issue now
@@katobytesI believe it was a mixture of a bad petcock and still the bike having vapor lock
@@Thumperwrestler Thank you for the response!
U have uorginale cap
No. New caps are NGK 1K caps.