🎯 Key points for quick navigation: 00:00:05 *🎬 Introduction to Weathering Tutorial* - The creator introduces the concept of weathering, explaining why he enjoys it and why he decided to make the video. - Mentions working on a Starkiller saber and a custom chassis design by Solo Sabers. - Discusses the variety of materials and techniques involved in weathering different types of metals. 00:02:00 *🛠️ Preparing the Saber Hilt for Weathering* - Shows the aluminum hilt that will be weathered, describing its current shiny state and why it doesn't fit the character's style. - Talks about personal touches like leather wrapping and using shoe polish to add natural weathering effects over time. 00:04:28 *🧰 Tools and Materials Needed for Weathering* - Lists essential materials for weathering aluminum, including aluminum black, gloves, plates, and painter’s tape. - Recommends using a higher grit sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pad to remove protective layers on aluminum before applying the aluminum black. 00:08:19 *🪛 Preparing the Surface for Weathering* - Demonstrates scuffing the surface of the pommel with a pad to remove the protective layer, emphasizing the importance of preparing the surface correctly for the aluminum black to work. 00:10:24 *🧴 Applying Aluminum Black to the Pommel* - Details the application process of aluminum black, explaining how it chemically reacts with the aluminum to create a weathered, aged look. - Emphasizes doing this in a well-ventilated area due to the toxic fumes. 00:12:41 *🧪 Activating and Stopping the Weathering Process* - Shows how the chemical reaction affects the aluminum, turning it black quickly. - Uses water and a damp towel to stop the reaction, deactivating the chemicals and preventing further aging. 00:15:49 *🧼 Cleaning and Detailing the Pommel* - Cleans the weathered pommel with paper towels, removing excess moisture and ensuring a good finish. - Suggests multiple rounds of weathering for a darker, more detailed look if desired. 00:17:03 *🏗️ Final Adjustments and Tips* - Highlights the importance of hitting high spots and edges to give a realistic, worn look. - Discusses various techniques like using a torch or additional materials but notes his preference for the aluminum black method. 24:48 *🎨 Applying Acrylic Wash to Aluminum Parts* - The presenter demonstrates how to use acrylic wash on aluminum parts to create a weathered, aged appearance. - Key steps include using watered-down acrylic paint, applying it to crevices, and wiping away excess to enhance subtle weathering effects. - Tips include dabbing with a dry paper towel and adjusting the wash intensity for realistic rusting. 27:05 *🛠️ Detailing Weathering Techniques* - Emphasizes using washes to target specific areas like cracks and crevices for a natural look. - Discusses the importance of applying wash carefully to avoid overdoing it and achieving a subtle effect that looks aged. - Shows how to adjust the application based on desired realism, highlighting the importance of focusing on spots where grime would naturally accumulate. 29:00 *🌧️ Creating Realistic Rust and Grime* - Demonstrates how the wash settles into hard-to-reach areas, enhancing the realism of weathering effects. - The presenter notes the impact of wash on visual appeal, creating an impression of long-term use and exposure to the elements. - The acrylic wash's slow drying time allows for adjustments, making it easy to refine or remove areas as needed. 31:04 *🧼 Final Touches and Enhancements* - Focuses on adding finishing touches, like adding grime between detailed parts such as cube sections. - Discusses enhancing high spots for shine to make weathering details stand out when viewed under light. - Encourages users to seal the piece with a clear coat to preserve the weathering work and prevent future wear. 32:43 *📦 Wrapping Up the Tutorial* - The presenter concludes by comparing the weathered piece with the untouched parts, showcasing the transformation. - Emphasizes how the weathering process adds depth and character, making the piece look more dynamic and realistic. - Ends with tips on completing weathering on other parts and suggests potential future tutorials on similar weathering techniques. 34:06 *🎸 Personal Insights and Future Content* - Shares personal reflections on creating content, including preferences for listening to music while working on projects. - Mentions plans for more tutorials on smaller tasks, like wiring and minor modifications, to accommodate viewer requests. - Encourages viewers to subscribe and interact to keep the content engaging, highlighting the journey toward reaching a subscriber milestone.
THAT'S a tutorial i was looking for.Just started to weather my hilt.I did a flanged emitter myself out of an aluminum scrap piece.Now it's gonna look used.Thank you.
Yeah man happy to help. Weathering is some for my favorites things to do in prop building. There are so many different ways to do it. For aluminum I love this method
Awesome work man, I have worked with Aluminum Black before but not to that extent but you are so right sometimes it just goes so fast. The Metallurgical reason it works so much faster than other times has to do with, the grade of the aluminum, is it cast, billet, aircraft grade, other alloys in the aluminum but as you explained it is a chemical reaction. I really like what you did with the rust wash and grime if you wanted. Awesome info thanks man!
I suggest applying Birchwood Casey's Barricade which "rapidly drives out moisture from metal pores and deposits a transparent protective coating which seals the surface." I've used this stuff after having applied AB to certain components to my aluminum Fieldmarshal E-11 blaster build. Great job on the weathering!
The bossa nova quietly in the background, the soft whispers of hand sweat on supple leather. I'm trying to learn bro but the vibe right now is chiiiiiiiill. Haha!
Save the elbow grease for the lady lovin’ and get yourself a can of Easy Off oven cleaner. Put your pieces in a plastic container and spray them with Easy Off. wear rubber gloves. Flip your parts and spray again. Wait ten or 20 minutes. Use a green scrubby pad over the sink with the water running and scrub the finish right off. Easy.
There is a video of the hilt on this channel. There are also pics on the nerfherder custom facebook page. This was a long time ago so it may be back a bit. The leather I cut and hydrated/weathered myself from a sheet of lambskin. As for the black parts it just depends on the hilts and if they are powder coated and or anadized. Usually i just blend them with the overall hilt using a very fine steel wool and hit the edges with like a needle file to expose the aluminum underneath. I am not sure if there are pics of this hilt on my instagram as well.
I hate clearcoating after doing all this. Idk if it's the type of clearcoat that i used but it just starts chipping away and looking really bad anyways. I had to use paint thinner to get the clear coat off and then redo the weathering. It's holding up well so far without the clearcoat. If you gonna just display your saber, you don't have the do the clearcoat. If you handle it without clearcoat it might pull off some of the weathering, but the paint that is in the cracks shouldn't come off.
@NerfherderCustoms great video otherwise man. I learned from you how to weather and I gotta say I am very impressed with how my sabers turned out and it's thanks to your guidance.
Depending on the piece I just use a matte or semi gloss rattle can clear coat. I forget the brand but they all work the same to me. Do like two coats and it will hold your weathering well. Unless your weathering is just spray paint on a slick polished aluminum piece. Then it will only hold for so long. Got to break that protective layer off and then weather and then do a protective layer. Just a couple steps
@@NerfherderCustoms Do you generally go with matte for sabers with darker finishes and semi-gloss for ones with lighter finishes? So your TFU2 SK would probably have semi-gloss?
@@chadgiacomozzi2602 Yeah for like darker I go matte and the more aluminum shiny look I will give a semi gloss. I want to try a satin clear coat if they have it. I have just always used the same stuff and it worked so I never experimented more from there.
Love the weathering! I’m new to the saber community but have a Korbanth Graflex Supreme on the way. The SK2 is one of my favorite hilts so I may add this to my collection later down the line. I love the look of the leather wrap, looks much better then the one Korbanth sends with the kit. Where did you find this particular wrap and where do you recommend finding parts for custom builds? Keep up the good content man!
What is the emitter made out of? You can try the AB first and if nothing happens and it just slides off (which I feel it might) then I would hit it will a scot bite pad and try again and see. If you strip it there is a chance it could be brass or copper under there and then you have a problem if you wanted to keep it that silver look. Test it out before you do anything. Best case it just starts the chemical process without any additional steps
@@spectre_x_customs6955 Yeah I would say just run the process and see. Its kinda always an experiment. Work slow and add and remove until you like it and type process.
I wanted my pommel to be really dark and gritty. With AB you just get it darkened up and then break down the layer till you like what you see. I only really hit my high spots to get the edges to shine so there is contrast. Anytime you weather something you always want the corners and stuff to be the shiny parts. Stuff that would naturally polish itself.
That’s is from a sheet of lamb skin that I got from hobby lobby. It’s not in the fabric section it’s in the leather section. At this point I just use leather wraps from defconbird on Ebay. Search leather wrap for lightsabers on eBay and you will find it.
Tip: Next time use Golden Acrylic Translucent Brown Oxide instead of the normal brown. They also have yellow and red for more rust looks. Looks more like weathering and less like... well, opaque acrylic paint.
@@NerfherderCustoms burnt sienna, raw sienna, burnt umber, raw umber, etc. all great for more opaque stuff. The great thing about this translucent oxide paint by Golden is that one color can become many colors. We used it by the gallons weathering Galaxy's Edge.
Hey man, Great video! Do you add a clear coat to this after you are all finished? Or does it come out ok and stay that way with using just the aluminum black?
Yeah I will usually do a matte clear coat. I don't like the way a hilt feels if its dirty. The clear coat will give it some protection as well which is nice. And it can some what mask the smell which is also nice lol
That’s will be a little difficult because graflex shells are nickel plated brass. So if you break down that nickel plating your will see exposed brass. Now brass will react to aluminum black, it’s still a risk if you don’t want your graflex to look like brass anywhere. One thing I and a lot of other people do for weathering those are heat staining with a blow torch. But that is going to turn it like a purple and blue in those areas. I’d ask in graflex groups like on Facebook.
thanks for making this video man, i been doing some trial and error trying to weather one of my sabers right now and still can’t quite get it where i want it. just curious if you ever used anything other than aluminum black to achieve the same effect? i bought enamel paint from a hardware store the other day and thought that’d work, but after watching this it seems like the Birchwood Casey stuff is in a league of its own. love the “local on the 8’s” weather channel music btw hahah
No problem dude. AB works best for aluminum applications. Not all hilts are aluminum tho so you just have to get crafty. I have used differnt paints and stuff but that's pretty much it. If the the piece has a protective layer to it like I said in the video then almost every single thing you do to it is going to rub off. Even if you clear coat it. There is powder coating but I never get into that. Not my thing. I like a more nasty looking in universe hilt that wild colors.
@@NerfherderCustoms yeah same! i had to sand the hell out of this hilt to get that coating off. But yeah i’m not even going for a super weathered damaged look, just like them to look like “dirty metal” i want to look at my hilts and think “man they’ve seen some shit.” not look at them and think “damn how’s that thing still power on?” hahah if that makes sense
@@NerfherderCustoms The best protection I have found is gel nail polish. You need a UV lamp to make it dry and it resist far better than any clear coat I have ever tried. I made some huge scratches on my Korbanth Starkiller when I got it just from general handling. I ended up taking the entire weathering job off and redid the whole thing then sealed it all with gel nail polish. It could still be scratched off but not from just handling it anymore. I got some gloss one an also some mat one that I use on the dirty areas so the weathering isn't all shinny.
I am actually not sure just yet. I am going to be trying it soon. I would test on a piece before attempting on the actual hilt. Only two things can happen. It will work really fast. Or it will just drip off the sides. Sometimes AB has done the trick on other things I didn't expect it to so I don't have a solid answer. Sorry
@@arctique_saberfonts Dude Dylan got me this saber he knows lol. We are joking because Star Wars theory calls it Korbinth. He just found the community. We are only playing. Also you got to watch for that Dylan. He is a troll lol
🎯 Key points for quick navigation:
00:00:05 *🎬 Introduction to Weathering Tutorial*
- The creator introduces the concept of weathering, explaining why he enjoys it and why he decided to make the video.
- Mentions working on a Starkiller saber and a custom chassis design by Solo Sabers.
- Discusses the variety of materials and techniques involved in weathering different types of metals.
00:02:00 *🛠️ Preparing the Saber Hilt for Weathering*
- Shows the aluminum hilt that will be weathered, describing its current shiny state and why it doesn't fit the character's style.
- Talks about personal touches like leather wrapping and using shoe polish to add natural weathering effects over time.
00:04:28 *🧰 Tools and Materials Needed for Weathering*
- Lists essential materials for weathering aluminum, including aluminum black, gloves, plates, and painter’s tape.
- Recommends using a higher grit sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pad to remove protective layers on aluminum before applying the aluminum black.
00:08:19 *🪛 Preparing the Surface for Weathering*
- Demonstrates scuffing the surface of the pommel with a pad to remove the protective layer, emphasizing the importance of preparing the surface correctly for the aluminum black to work.
00:10:24 *🧴 Applying Aluminum Black to the Pommel*
- Details the application process of aluminum black, explaining how it chemically reacts with the aluminum to create a weathered, aged look.
- Emphasizes doing this in a well-ventilated area due to the toxic fumes.
00:12:41 *🧪 Activating and Stopping the Weathering Process*
- Shows how the chemical reaction affects the aluminum, turning it black quickly.
- Uses water and a damp towel to stop the reaction, deactivating the chemicals and preventing further aging.
00:15:49 *🧼 Cleaning and Detailing the Pommel*
- Cleans the weathered pommel with paper towels, removing excess moisture and ensuring a good finish.
- Suggests multiple rounds of weathering for a darker, more detailed look if desired.
00:17:03 *🏗️ Final Adjustments and Tips*
- Highlights the importance of hitting high spots and edges to give a realistic, worn look.
- Discusses various techniques like using a torch or additional materials but notes his preference for the aluminum black method.
24:48 *🎨 Applying Acrylic Wash to Aluminum Parts*
- The presenter demonstrates how to use acrylic wash on aluminum parts to create a weathered, aged appearance.
- Key steps include using watered-down acrylic paint, applying it to crevices, and wiping away excess to enhance subtle weathering effects.
- Tips include dabbing with a dry paper towel and adjusting the wash intensity for realistic rusting.
27:05 *🛠️ Detailing Weathering Techniques*
- Emphasizes using washes to target specific areas like cracks and crevices for a natural look.
- Discusses the importance of applying wash carefully to avoid overdoing it and achieving a subtle effect that looks aged.
- Shows how to adjust the application based on desired realism, highlighting the importance of focusing on spots where grime would naturally accumulate.
29:00 *🌧️ Creating Realistic Rust and Grime*
- Demonstrates how the wash settles into hard-to-reach areas, enhancing the realism of weathering effects.
- The presenter notes the impact of wash on visual appeal, creating an impression of long-term use and exposure to the elements.
- The acrylic wash's slow drying time allows for adjustments, making it easy to refine or remove areas as needed.
31:04 *🧼 Final Touches and Enhancements*
- Focuses on adding finishing touches, like adding grime between detailed parts such as cube sections.
- Discusses enhancing high spots for shine to make weathering details stand out when viewed under light.
- Encourages users to seal the piece with a clear coat to preserve the weathering work and prevent future wear.
32:43 *📦 Wrapping Up the Tutorial*
- The presenter concludes by comparing the weathered piece with the untouched parts, showcasing the transformation.
- Emphasizes how the weathering process adds depth and character, making the piece look more dynamic and realistic.
- Ends with tips on completing weathering on other parts and suggests potential future tutorials on similar weathering techniques.
34:06 *🎸 Personal Insights and Future Content*
- Shares personal reflections on creating content, including preferences for listening to music while working on projects.
- Mentions plans for more tutorials on smaller tasks, like wiring and minor modifications, to accommodate viewer requests.
- Encourages viewers to subscribe and interact to keep the content engaging, highlighting the journey toward reaching a subscriber milestone.
I tried this and got it all over my carpet. Love the channel.
Sorry about your carpet! I use paper plates to keep myself from making a mess. Hope the video helped!
Dude your leather wrapping is amazing! The star killer is such a sick hilt too, love it man!
Hey thank you!
THAT'S a tutorial i was looking for.Just started to weather my hilt.I did a flanged emitter myself out of an aluminum scrap piece.Now it's gonna look used.Thank you.
Yeah man happy to help. Weathering is some for my favorites things to do in prop building. There are so many different ways to do it. For aluminum I love this method
Nice video man, this is great. Can't wait to see what you do with my Fallen!
Very satisfying. Great tutorial
Hey thank you! I am glad its helpful.
THANK YOU!!! I'm new to the saber community and definitely needed tips on weathering.
Hey happy to help. There are many ways to do weathering but this is one I prefer if the materials allow it.
Awesome work man, I have worked with Aluminum Black before but not to that extent but you are so right sometimes it just goes so fast. The Metallurgical reason it works so much faster than other times has to do with, the grade of the aluminum, is it cast, billet, aircraft grade, other alloys in the aluminum but as you explained it is a chemical reaction. I really like what you did with the rust wash and grime if you wanted. Awesome info thanks man!
ah dude this is exactly what Ive been looking for! Thanks legend!
No problem man!
I suggest applying Birchwood Casey's Barricade which "rapidly drives out moisture from metal pores and deposits a transparent protective coating which seals the surface." I've used this stuff after having applied AB to certain components to my aluminum Fieldmarshal E-11 blaster build. Great job on the weathering!
Oh that's awesome! I will look into it. Thank you.
@@NerfherderCustoms your welcome!
@@NerfherderCustoms
So did you look into it? How did it turn out?
Better then clear coat?
@@MasterKydis clearcoat on a blaster wouldn't look right or feel right when handling it.
This is great. My favorite video of yours so far. BOOOOM
Did you see my PSA video?! lol
Perfect weather. i wish i was as talented as you
Hey thanks man! There isn't much to it. Its just practicing and seeing what works for you.
The bossa nova quietly in the background, the soft whispers of hand sweat on supple leather. I'm trying to learn bro but the vibe right now is chiiiiiiiill. Haha!
I like to chill bruh. Get that feel good vibes lol
Dude great detail! Thank you!
Awesome! thank you very much for sharing : )
Yeah no problem. Hope it helps!
Save the elbow grease for the lady lovin’ and get yourself a can of Easy Off oven cleaner. Put your pieces in a plastic container and spray them with Easy Off. wear rubber gloves. Flip your parts and spray again. Wait ten or 20 minutes. Use a green scrubby pad over the sink with the water running and scrub the finish right off. Easy.
Yeah I know but thank you. This video is old
Thank you! I need to grab some of that acrylic paint... I’ve been using enamel.
Great vid man! What do you do when you get to the black parts of the saber? Any final
Pics? Also, where did you get the wrap?
There is a video of the hilt on this channel. There are also pics on the nerfherder custom facebook page. This was a long time ago so it may be back a bit. The leather I cut and hydrated/weathered myself from a sheet of lambskin. As for the black parts it just depends on the hilts and if they are powder coated and or anadized. Usually i just blend them with the overall hilt using a very fine steel wool and hit the edges with like a needle file to expose the aluminum underneath. I am not sure if there are pics of this hilt on my instagram as well.
Saw your video on the predator soundfont and I just had to have it, thanks.
Dude that sound font is prob my favorite out of universe sound font. Its so worth it if you're a predator fan
@@NerfherderCustoms do know of a tron legacy soundfont??
@@steelrain5626 There is one on saber font.com but I don't think its for smoothswing. Its still pretty cool.
Is there a way to get rid of that funky smell the solution leaves after you're all done? I've used a wet cloth but the aluminium still smells weird
I will use a clear coat. It will help. But over time it should start smiling a little better
I apply Birchwood Casey's Barricade afterwards. It tones that smell down considerably and it also protects the aluminum.
I hate clearcoating after doing all this. Idk if it's the type of clearcoat that i used but it just starts chipping away and looking really bad anyways. I had to use paint thinner to get the clear coat off and then redo the weathering. It's holding up well so far without the clearcoat. If you gonna just display your saber, you don't have the do the clearcoat. If you handle it without clearcoat it might pull off some of the weathering, but the paint that is in the cracks shouldn't come off.
Yes I know. Thank you.
@NerfherderCustoms great video otherwise man. I learned from you how to weather and I gotta say I am very impressed with how my sabers turned out and it's thanks to your guidance.
Will be trying this the the 7Chambers SK-IG.
Ohh nice! Thats will be fun. Weathering an SK is a lot of fun.
Thanks Benjy, great video! What's your go-to clear coat to seal the saber once you're done?
Depending on the piece I just use a matte or semi gloss rattle can clear coat. I forget the brand but they all work the same to me. Do like two coats and it will hold your weathering well. Unless your weathering is just spray paint on a slick polished aluminum piece. Then it will only hold for so long. Got to break that protective layer off and then weather and then do a protective layer. Just a couple steps
@@NerfherderCustoms Do you generally go with matte for sabers with darker finishes and semi-gloss for ones with lighter finishes? So your TFU2 SK would probably have semi-gloss?
@@chadgiacomozzi2602 Yeah for like darker I go matte and the more aluminum shiny look I will give a semi gloss. I want to try a satin clear coat if they have it. I have just always used the same stuff and it worked so I never experimented more from there.
Love the weathering! I’m new to the saber community but have a Korbanth Graflex Supreme on the way. The SK2 is one of my favorite hilts so I may add this to my collection later down the line. I love the look of the leather wrap, looks much better then the one Korbanth sends with the kit. Where did you find this particular wrap and where do you recommend finding parts for custom builds? Keep up the good content man!
I plan on using aluminum black on the emitter of a k4v2. Do you recommend i strip off the chrome finish on the emitter before i start?
What is the emitter made out of? You can try the AB first and if nothing happens and it just slides off (which I feel it might) then I would hit it will a scot bite pad and try again and see. If you strip it there is a chance it could be brass or copper under there and then you have a problem if you wanted to keep it that silver look. Test it out before you do anything. Best case it just starts the chemical process without any additional steps
@@NerfherderCustoms i do believe it is aluminum. I just wanted a dull look and didn't know of the chrome would show through the aluminum black.
@@spectre_x_customs6955 Yeah I would say just run the process and see. Its kinda always an experiment. Work slow and add and remove until you like it and type process.
@@NerfherderCustoms will do, thanks!!!
Hey man! Very informative!! You did forgot to clearcoat your acrylic though~
No I clear coat it. Did I not say it in the video? I thought I did?
@@NerfherderCustoms Yea my bad -- you did at 31:40 I must have missed it~ @_@
Thanks for the demo! I noticed your pommel is very dark compared to others I've seen. Would I apply less AB? Or would I scrub it harder?
I wanted my pommel to be really dark and gritty. With AB you just get it darkened up and then break down the layer till you like what you see. I only really hit my high spots to get the edges to shine so there is contrast. Anytime you weather something you always want the corners and stuff to be the shiny parts. Stuff that would naturally polish itself.
Where did you get the leather wrap?
That’s is from a sheet of lamb skin that I got from hobby lobby. It’s not in the fabric section it’s in the leather section. At this point I just use leather wraps from defconbird on Ebay. Search leather wrap for lightsabers on eBay and you will find it.
What clear coat do you recommend?
Tip: Next time use Golden Acrylic Translucent Brown Oxide instead of the normal brown. They also have yellow and red for more rust looks. Looks more like weathering and less like... well, opaque acrylic paint.
It’s burnt sienna but okay.
@@NerfherderCustoms burnt sienna, raw sienna, burnt umber, raw umber, etc. all great for more opaque stuff. The great thing about this translucent oxide paint by Golden is that one color can become many colors. We used it by the gallons weathering Galaxy's Edge.
@@LAZ-org I appreciate it. I’ll have to give it a go
Hey man, Great video! Do you add a clear coat to this after you are all finished? Or does it come out ok and stay that way with using just the aluminum black?
Yeah I will usually do a matte clear coat. I don't like the way a hilt feels if its dirty. The clear coat will give it some protection as well which is nice. And it can some what mask the smell which is also nice lol
wow... thanks, i'm going to save some money
Glad it was helpful for you.
How would one weather a KR Graflex
That’s will be a little difficult because graflex shells are nickel plated brass. So if you break down that nickel plating your will see exposed brass. Now brass will react to aluminum black, it’s still a risk if you don’t want your graflex to look like brass anywhere. One thing I and a lot of other people do for weathering those are heat staining with a blow torch. But that is going to turn it like a purple and blue in those areas. I’d ask in graflex groups like on Facebook.
@@NerfherderCustoms Thank you for the response and info. I will definitely check there. Great vid as well and MTFBWYA
thanks for making this video man, i been doing some trial and error trying to weather one of my sabers right now and still can’t quite get it where i want it. just curious if you ever used anything other than aluminum black to achieve the same effect? i bought enamel paint from a hardware store the other day and thought that’d work, but after watching this it seems like the Birchwood Casey stuff is in a league of its own.
love the “local on the 8’s” weather channel music btw hahah
Hey Grady Hedrick! Yea I saw your Aurora's weathering has been wiped down by sweat too unfortunaly... i have to remake mine again, lol
@@arctique_saberfonts yeah man, i re weathered it and put a clear coat on it and that helped but i still just feel it’s missing something
No problem dude. AB works best for aluminum applications. Not all hilts are aluminum tho so you just have to get crafty. I have used differnt paints and stuff but that's pretty much it. If the the piece has a protective layer to it like I said in the video then almost every single thing you do to it is going to rub off. Even if you clear coat it. There is powder coating but I never get into that. Not my thing. I like a more nasty looking in universe hilt that wild colors.
@@NerfherderCustoms yeah same! i had to sand the hell out of this hilt to get that coating off. But yeah i’m not even going for a super weathered damaged look, just like them to look like “dirty metal”
i want to look at my hilts and think “man they’ve seen some shit.” not look at them and think “damn how’s that thing still power on?”
hahah if that makes sense
@@NerfherderCustoms The best protection I have found is gel nail polish. You need a UV lamp to make it dry and it resist far better than any clear coat I have ever tried. I made some huge scratches on my Korbanth Starkiller when I got it just from general handling. I ended up taking the entire weathering job off and redid the whole thing then sealed it all with gel nail polish. It could still be scratched off but not from just handling it anymore. I got some gloss one an also some mat one that I use on the dirty areas so the weathering isn't all shinny.
Hey Benji,
Does aluminum black cause the same chemical reaction with steel, or do I need to use a different method to weather a steel hilt?
I am actually not sure just yet. I am going to be trying it soon. I would test on a piece before attempting on the actual hilt. Only two things can happen. It will work really fast. Or it will just drip off the sides. Sometimes AB has done the trick on other things I didn't expect it to so I don't have a solid answer. Sorry
@@NerfherderCustoms thank you. I will do some experimenting. I would love a video on weathering steel hilts in the future
@@xdom3641 If its the same process as I do in this video it may not be necessary. But it depends really on the process.
For steel, you'd probably want to use some type of cold bluing like Perma Blue. Similar product but intended for steel instead of aluminum.
@@mwmalecky Very nice! I haven't had the need to try that out yet but thats great info. Thank you.
Did you get that hilt from Star Wars theory
From kornbinth
From Korbanth. He even said it. Star Wars Theory does not sell hilts, or any lightsaber, he buys them....like everyone.
@@arctique_saberfonts Dude Dylan got me this saber he knows lol. We are joking because Star Wars theory calls it Korbinth. He just found the community. We are only playing. Also you got to watch for that Dylan. He is a troll lol
@@NerfherderCustoms Ah I see
1:23 😂im dead XD
Lol people want an install tutorial its going to be a season length video series
I don't like it when my hands get crazy :)