Another excellent video my friend. Thank you so much for taking the time to share this with us. I hope you have a blessed week. Keep up the fun videos. I will be starting my first bow soon. Love to see the stuff your doing with your bows, always inspirational to watch. Dale
Weylin, great video but as I watched it I just kept noticing how cool your fades look, do you think you could do a video on how you get that look to your fades? Thank you
Great video thanks, lots of useful tips and tricks. Would love to see a video on how you do the leather wraps/handles one day, the ones Ive seen on your bows are looking great, mine not so much. How did you make the fades, sharp gouge chisel?
Thanks for the feedback. A curved gouge would work well for the fades, a gooseneck scraper as well. I have some hook knives that I was using. I don't currently plan to do a video for the particular handle wrap style I use. You can come and take a class with me and I'll show you how I do it. 🙂
@@SwiftwoodBows Ok I understand. Ok cool,might try fades like that one day. thanks for the invite but would be a bit too big undertaking considering i have to cross the atlantic ocean :) keep up the good work
Really enjoyed your videos. Thanks for getting me started. Currently chasing a ring on my first piece of Osage. Very very nervous. Because osage doesn’t grow in this country, it’s immensely expensive and takes forever to arrive. Any additional tips are gratefully received. Peace !
Thank you for the comprehensive, step-by-step tutorial. Quick question: What ounce leather do you typically use for your leather handle wraps? Or, more generally, what is your go-to leather for your leather handle wraps?
Thank you. I don't know what the once my leather is. I like deer and elk hide. I like to keep it thin. I also use tanned beaver tail. It looks and feels great but is difficult to work with.
Are you a fan of that Shinto rasp? I've got one on order that I haven't received yet. Those faceted fade-outs on the handle to limb transition look pretty racy!
Good matter to talk about and nice video. Thanks, Weylin. You made it ending with a 90º angle between the handle and the arrow rest shelf. What do you think about less degree arrow rest angles?. Are they damaging fletching?. Do you like them?.
Thank you. if your nock point is in the right place on your string the arrow shouldn't really be touching the arrow rest after your release the string so it shouldn't matter too much
Is it hard to cut to center for adding a shelf on self bow woods? Where I am, I have access to sugar (rock) maple, red oak, and white ash. White ash being the one I am most interested in working with, including fire hardening the belly (and of a reflex-deflex design).
It's not necessarily hard, it's just a style that I don't particularly care for on my selfbows. Feels too modern to me. There are guys that do it though. You'll want to design the handle differently to give the support needed. Look on Clay Hayes' channel. I believe he has a video on the process. I'd choose sugar maple over ash, personally, though any of those can make a good bow. Good luck!
How can a person know which is the upper part of the bow and the lower part of the bow. I have one and I can’t tell which side is which side...the top and the bottom. I need to know. I plan to make a grip on it and it has to made correctly. Thanks.
That is the sapwood. Most of the time we remove it and chase a heartwood ring for the back. If the sapwood is free from cracks and decay then it can be fine on the back of a bow. Make sure it's thin so that the bulk of the bow is made up of heartwood.
Will an arrow rest given its physical hard nature, damage and alter the angles of the arrow tail feathers thus reducing aerodynamics velocity and accuracy resulting in missing the target or hitting the wrong target?
If you nock point is in the right place the arrow should lift slightly off the arrow rest and not have much contact at all with the arrow rest when it's shot. If the arrow is bouncing off the arrow rest then the nock point should be raised.
Dude this is going to sound weird but I have those same exact blue scissors on the wall they have been the only pair for like 10 plus years. Just thought it was funny.
Not sure I understand why, after saying how you didn’t like the aesthetic of an arrow rest on a self bow, why you didn’t apply the same effort to forming the rest to the bow instead of changing the original aesthetic? A bit of sand held to the handle allows the sanding of your rest to fit the handle. Great job though, beautiful work!
I have used golf tees, I talk about them in the video. They are typically made out of junky wood so they don't tend to hold up as well over time. I also like to have a little more control over the size and shape. I usually do it on the belt sander and it goes much faster.
Idk why you would suggest adding a shelf to to a selfbow that works perfectly fine and looks so much better then a butt ass ugly pistol grip and shelf. Many people shoot and nock the arrow incorrectly when switching back to a bow with no shelf because it can make them lazy always having an aid there to help u not scratch your hand (if u nock too low) and make the arrow fly straighter when there is an ancient technique for that.
Well, personally I like to shoot without a shelf and I like the look of selfbows without a shelf, but different people have different tastes and comforts. This is a good compromise between no shelf and a cut in shelf. Many of my customers request an arrow rest on their custom bows and this is how I do it. I talk them into no shelf when I can. I have my own preferences, but I try not to get too dogmatic and push them on other people as the only way to make a bow. A lot of people come to selfbows from compounds or modern recurves and aren't ready to shoot off their hands.
@@SwiftwoodBows agreed man and I thought u were telling people like you must use an arrow rest or something along those lines. Shouldn't be so quick too judge. Sorry mate carry on
I'd love to see a video on how you do your fades. I love the looks of your fades.
Thanks for the input. I'll add that to my list of ideas
Sandpaper on MDF plus two minutes equals a perfectly flat surface. Your method allows more variation during each stroke of the rasp.
Another excellent video my friend. Thank you so much for taking the time to share this with us. I hope you have a blessed week. Keep up the fun videos. I will be starting my first bow soon. Love to see the stuff your doing with your bows, always inspirational to watch.
Dale
Thank you for sharing sir. Love this idea.
Thanks again and have a blessed week.
Dale
Thanks, you too!
I used stacked leather to make an arrow rest on my first bow. Combined with a leather plate above it makes for a quiet bow.
How far above center should my arrow rest be set
Weylin, great video but as I watched it I just kept noticing how cool your fades look, do you think you could do a video on how you get that look to your fades? Thank you
Awesme vid, as always! Thanks for sharing your knowledge...
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback
Muy bueno felisitaciones de Bs As un abrazo
Very nice sir👌
Thank you
Great video thanks, lots of useful tips and tricks. Would love to see a video on how you do the leather wraps/handles one day, the ones Ive seen on your bows are looking great, mine not so much. How did you make the fades, sharp gouge chisel?
Thanks for the feedback. A curved gouge would work well for the fades, a gooseneck scraper as well. I have some hook knives that I was using. I don't currently plan to do a video for the particular handle wrap style I use. You can come and take a class with me and I'll show you how I do it. 🙂
@@SwiftwoodBows Ok I understand. Ok cool,might try fades like that one day. thanks for the invite but would be a bit too big undertaking considering i have to cross the atlantic ocean :) keep up the good work
Really enjoyed your videos. Thanks for getting me started. Currently chasing a ring on my first piece of Osage. Very very nervous. Because osage doesn’t grow in this country, it’s immensely expensive and takes forever to arrive. Any additional tips are gratefully received. Peace !
You're welcome! Glad you find them helpful. Good luck on you Osage bow. Send me an email if you need help on it. Swiftwoodbows@gmail.com
Thank you for the comprehensive, step-by-step tutorial. Quick question: What ounce leather do you typically use for your leather handle wraps? Or, more generally, what is your go-to leather for your leather handle wraps?
Thank you. I don't know what the once my leather is. I like deer and elk hide. I like to keep it thin. I also use tanned beaver tail. It looks and feels great but is difficult to work with.
How would you design an arrow rest for the other side of the bow? Ie. thumb rest instead of knuckle rest
Do you have an instructive video showing how to reflex limbs on a hickory bow?
I'd use the same boiling method that I used with the Osage bow in my recurve video. I just probably wouldnt try to make them as radical.
Are you a fan of that Shinto rasp? I've got one on order that I haven't received yet.
Those faceted fade-outs on the handle to limb transition look pretty racy!
Thank you. Yes, I like the Shinto rasp. I use it a lot.
Can the rest be added after tillering has been completed or should bit be done prior to tillering?
Good matter to talk about and nice video. Thanks, Weylin.
You made it ending with a 90º angle between the handle and the arrow rest shelf. What do you think about less degree arrow rest angles?. Are they damaging fletching?. Do you like them?.
Thank you. if your nock point is in the right place on your string the arrow shouldn't really be touching the arrow rest after your release the string so it shouldn't matter too much
On a mulberry build, should I remove the sap wood like osage and chase a ring or do I leave the sap wood like hickory ?
Treat mulberry like Osage and chase a heart wood ring. Just make it a bit wider because it's not as dense as osage
Is it hard to cut to center for adding a shelf on self bow woods?
Where I am, I have access to sugar (rock) maple, red oak, and white ash.
White ash being the one I am most interested in working with, including fire hardening the belly (and of a reflex-deflex design).
It's not necessarily hard, it's just a style that I don't particularly care for on my selfbows. Feels too modern to me. There are guys that do it though. You'll want to design the handle differently to give the support needed. Look on Clay Hayes' channel. I believe he has a video on the process. I'd choose sugar maple over ash, personally, though any of those can make a good bow. Good luck!
How can a person know which is the upper part of the bow and the lower part of the bow. I have one and I can’t tell which side is which side...the top and the bottom. I need to know. I plan to make a grip on it and it has to made correctly. Thanks.
If everything is totally equal then it doesn't matter, and you get to decide. If one limb is longer then that is the top.
Where can I get one of those giant rasp
This is the one I use. Its great for the price. www.amazon.com/dp/B000QUZE0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_P2DPYHRFVY7BEK6H6NY6
I have noticed that some Osage has a really thick white layer under the bark. Is this suitable to leave on for a self bow ?
That is the sapwood. Most of the time we remove it and chase a heartwood ring for the back. If the sapwood is free from cracks and decay then it can be fine on the back of a bow. Make sure it's thin so that the bulk of the bow is made up of heartwood.
Will an arrow rest given its physical hard nature, damage and alter the angles of the arrow tail feathers thus reducing aerodynamics velocity and accuracy resulting in missing the target or hitting the wrong target?
If you nock point is in the right place the arrow should lift slightly off the arrow rest and not have much contact at all with the arrow rest when it's shot. If the arrow is bouncing off the arrow rest then the nock point should be raised.
Dude this is going to sound weird but I have those same exact blue scissors on the wall they have been the only pair for like 10 plus years. Just thought it was funny.
would love to know what is that gaint long file u using omg what brand is it and whats it called
Its a sav-edge farriers rasp. You can get them at a feed store or on Amazon for about $25. They are great
@@SwiftwoodBows looks amazing
Not sure I understand why, after saying how you didn’t like the aesthetic of an arrow rest on a self bow, why you didn’t apply the same effort to forming the rest to the bow instead of changing the original aesthetic? A bit of sand held to the handle allows the sanding of your rest to fit the handle. Great job though, beautiful work!
18 minutes for that !
I used a piece of bone from a roster that had a natural 90° and raped it under the leather grip
All that work when you could have used a golf T.
I have used golf tees, I talk about them in the video. They are typically made out of junky wood so they don't tend to hold up as well over time. I also like to have a little more control over the size and shape. I usually do it on the belt sander and it goes much faster.
Idk why you would suggest adding a shelf to to a selfbow that works perfectly fine and looks so much better then a butt ass ugly pistol grip and shelf. Many people shoot and nock the arrow incorrectly when switching back to a bow with no shelf because it can make them lazy always having an aid there to help u not scratch your hand (if u nock too low) and make the arrow fly straighter when there is an ancient technique for that.
Well, personally I like to shoot without a shelf and I like the look of selfbows without a shelf, but different people have different tastes and comforts. This is a good compromise between no shelf and a cut in shelf. Many of my customers request an arrow rest on their custom bows and this is how I do it. I talk them into no shelf when I can. I have my own preferences, but I try not to get too dogmatic and push them on other people as the only way to make a bow. A lot of people come to selfbows from compounds or modern recurves and aren't ready to shoot off their hands.
@@SwiftwoodBows agreed man and I thought u were telling people like you must use an arrow rest or something along those lines. Shouldn't be so quick too judge. Sorry mate carry on