Brilliant video, I am only just looking at getting in to light kits and I always thought cutting and drilling pieces would be the best way for fitment.
Fantastic video. One thing that has kept me away from lighting is connecting the buildings and having wires everywhere. So I’m interested in the magnetic connections. Can’t wait to see more on this because I’ve always liked the look of lighting but afraid of it.
I want to use the 2L Bar (78258) as a candle, with an orange light popping out one end. Is this possible, or is it way too thin? I’m willing to make any needed modifications like drilling.
Well I wouldnt use a bar as they are very thin to drill, but you could use tubing easy enough. I sell 3mm tubing on my website and also micro mini leds that can be easily installed into it.
Sorry for the off topic question. Using your ballasting and pinning technique for curve train track. Do you use tile or plates in the middle of the "base" where you have the jumpers? Any tips on how to keep the middle pieces, consisting of the 2-1x2x4 plates, 1x2x2 "L" plates, 1x1x2 Modified plate from coming apart when you are finished and trying to pin?
I just tile under my curves. But don't forget to check out Penn lugs website as well as the train track ballasting methods are all posted for free to download. l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php/Reference_Instructions
This is super exciting. The .8 mm plugs that can fit through any lego part are amazing. Are there going to be female 0.8 mm plugs too? Or how do you physically connect the plugs to the USB power source or extend the wires with the connecting cables?
I really found these tips very helpful, but maybe you can help me out with a question: you talk about daisy-chaining Modulars. I'm always afraid that there is too much current going through the main wire going to the USB connector. How much normal Modular buildings do you think can be chained together before it's too much?
It really depends on the number of leds and the type of power supply you are using. If you wantch this video It should help. Usb info at 6:11 I talk about amps and such. ruclips.net/video/E7YU5JKfzG8/видео.html
The quick rule of thumb is treat each led as .01 amps. Keep in mind to count all leds, some lights can have multiple leds in them. For example my 1x4 brick light has 2 leds so that counts as .02 amps :)
It's been a while since I last saw an official LEGO set with lighting elements in it. I guess one reason is because they don't have the ability to figure out miniaturized lighting kits like you're making. If they could figure it out they would have released official sets with similar lighting techniques in them. There was their 9V lighting system, it did take quite a lot of elements to get anywhere with it. It would have been very cumbersome to have to run plate based lighting everywhere. Your system is vastly superior, hopefully TLG will see the light and offer you some kind of recognition for your hard work putting these kits together.
Thanks so much, sadly Lego has no interest in entering the lighting market. When they do designs they try and make it durable for all ages which makes any system they try very cumbersome.
Great tips! Very helpful. Thank you for sharing. Most of my building were wired with kits pre MILS plating. So I have wires running out of the back of my buildings. I wish I had your daisy chain MILS plate wire, that would have made things so much better and cleaner when I did MILS plate them.
@@BevinsBricksWorld Yeah, I understand. Great content on lighting, I do quite a bit, mostly kits, some buying of parts and making my own kits, very little content on lighting, which surprises me, yours is awesome.
When I get a chance to work on it. My new ventures are keeping me rather busy. All city updates though are now posted on my other channel. Last one was 2 weeks ago.
i have done the modifications to my lego parts to hide and make it the wires as hidden as possible in my few lego techinic hyper cars. I did drill holes through the studs and such to wire the wires straight through. I did use tiles for the light heads but i was able to use a nail file to partly file the top of the modified plates. I was able to get it to fit the lights and still hold the tills on. wasn't that hard just slow.
Lol, I edit a lot of breaks out, I found it helps with viewer retention doing the videos this way. My old videos averaged 30%, this style I average 70% 😀
My website for LED Lights, Instructions, Stickers, Sets and more.
bevinsbricks.com/
My new Lego Channel
youtube.com/@BevinsBricks
What's your shipping to Western Canada like? I need led lights 👍
Glad I found this! I’m going to light up my new city and was wondering what to use since there are so many options
Use my product best prices and highest quality around. :) bevinsbricks.com/store/ols/categories/hobby-lighting
This video was better than what I was expecting to find on RUclips for LEGO lighting. Very good video. I saved it for later use.
Thanks, and dont forget to checkout all the great lighting products on my website.
Brilliant video, I am only just looking at getting in to light kits and I always thought cutting and drilling pieces would be the best way for fitment.
Yes it is the best way to avoid damaging them. I plan to start selling leds already installed in parts in the future as well.
That Streetlight Design is genius. Thanks!
Thanks
Appreciate the tips! Will be putting them to good use!
Thanks for watching
Have you tried any of the wireless lighting solutions?
No, as everything I see they are extremely expensive and you get minimal height. But thats also why I make and sell my own lighting products now.
Fantastic video. One thing that has kept me away from lighting is connecting the buildings and having wires everywhere. So I’m interested in the magnetic connections. Can’t wait to see more on this because I’ve always liked the look of lighting but afraid of it.
The only way to do it is to just jump in both feet my friend.
@@BevinsBricksWorld oh I hear you. I will eventually because I really enjoy the look of it.
You’re a wizard sir - bravo
Perfect timing! I am going to be lighting my moc. Learning a lot from this video! Thanks Daryl!
It's a ton of fun lighting stuff up. Makes everything come alive.
Love the excitement you have for LEDs as well as the information I learned from your video! Keep up the great work!
Thanks I appreciate it. :)
I want to use the 2L Bar (78258) as a candle, with an orange light popping out one end. Is this possible, or is it way too thin? I’m willing to make any needed modifications like drilling.
Well I wouldnt use a bar as they are very thin to drill, but you could use tubing easy enough. I sell 3mm tubing on my website and also micro mini leds that can be easily installed into it.
@@BevinsBricksWorld Thank you
Your welcome
Hi, do you have a kit for the Hocus Pocus set?
Currently no, I have not even purchased the set yet.
Great tips, thanks for sharing. You have made me start thinking about lights again. your system is great.
Thanks buddy, lighting is awesome and lots of fun as it adds so much detail.
Sorry for the off topic question. Using your ballasting and pinning technique for curve train track. Do you use tile or plates in the middle of the "base" where you have the jumpers? Any tips on how to keep the middle pieces, consisting of the 2-1x2x4 plates, 1x2x2 "L" plates, 1x1x2 Modified plate from coming apart when you are finished and trying to pin?
I just tile under my curves. But don't forget to check out Penn lugs website as well as the train track ballasting methods are all posted for free to download.
l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php/Reference_Instructions
@@BevinsBricksWorld Thank you. I think the problem I am having will be eliminated after I place the plates in the middle before pinning
Most tracks lift a little once snapped into place, but it's usually so small I ignore it. But I also typically don't pin my curves, only tile.
Hotdamn this was usefull.. MORE!
Thanks
Great video, love all the different options and the what not to do 🙂
You could use a clear stud and then put a tile on top.
This is true! Good way to get some different colours too!
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing and teaching!
Thanks for watching
I can’t find that 2c2 inverted disk anywhere.
Thanks for more tips
This is super exciting. The .8 mm plugs that can fit through any lego part are amazing. Are there going to be female 0.8 mm plugs too? Or how do you physically connect the plugs to the USB power source or extend the wires with the connecting cables?
They are hooked together with connection blocks, you can see them on my website. But I will be making more videos on it soon also.
Thanks for the info Daryl 👋👍
Thanks Nate
Awesome video Daryl, great advice and your city looks so good lit up!
Thanks
I really found these tips very helpful, but maybe you can help me out with a question: you talk about daisy-chaining Modulars. I'm always afraid that there is too much current going through the main wire going to the USB connector. How much normal Modular buildings do you think can be chained together before it's too much?
It really depends on the number of leds and the type of power supply you are using. If you wantch this video It should help. Usb info at 6:11 I talk about amps and such. ruclips.net/video/E7YU5JKfzG8/видео.html
@@BevinsBricksWorld Cool, thanks for the response! Good to know, time to calculate what I can do now!
The quick rule of thumb is treat each led as .01 amps. Keep in mind to count all leds, some lights can have multiple leds in them. For example my 1x4 brick light has 2 leds so that counts as .02 amps :)
It's been a while since I last saw an official LEGO set with lighting elements in it. I guess one reason is because they don't have the ability to figure out miniaturized lighting kits like you're making. If they could figure it out they would have released official sets with similar lighting techniques in them. There was their 9V lighting system, it did take quite a lot of elements to get anywhere with it. It would have been very cumbersome to have to run plate based lighting everywhere. Your system is vastly superior, hopefully TLG will see the light and offer you some kind of recognition for your hard work putting these kits together.
Thanks so much, sadly Lego has no interest in entering the lighting market. When they do designs they try and make it durable for all ages which makes any system they try very cumbersome.
Very helpful video! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching
Great tips...I will definitely be using these moving forward
Super-useful, nice and short! Thanks!
🤗🤗🤗🤗(((Heck yeah dude))) I found this video VERY HELPFUL & Thank you. You just got your channel another subscriber.
Thanks and dont forget to check out my website for great lighting products, that you wont see anywhere else. Www.bevinsbricks.com
Great information, thank you!
Thanks for watching :)
Great, informative video. I look forward to more.
Awesome tips
Great tips! Very helpful. Thank you for sharing. Most of my building were wired with kits pre MILS plating. So I have wires running out of the back of my buildings. I wish I had your daisy chain MILS plate wire, that would have made things so much better and cleaner when I did MILS plate them.
Constantly looking at new ways to improve lighting for everyone :)
Thank you for these tips and tricks Good Sir!
Thanks
Very useful tips Daryl. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks Scott PPP
PPP!
@@dustylegobricks Gday Thomas PPP BRO!
Thank you for all the good information!
Thanks for watching :)
Awesome video
Thanks Rob
Love these videos!! So helpful for when I eventually want to light up my buildings
Thanks for watching
awesome video man nice tips :)
Thanks for watching
Great tips and love the Def Leppard shirt, their new album is great.
Thanks and yes they are still rocking.
Great video buddy and some very useful information.
Thanks buddy
awesome Def Leopard T shirt, Man. Awesome advice, I have broken many of these. Always love your LED vids, miss the streams.
😊 thanks, I stopped the live streams due to lack of interest from people. Don't know if I will ever try then again.
@@BevinsBricksWorld Yeah, I understand. Great content on lighting, I do quite a bit, mostly kits, some buying of parts and making my own kits, very little content on lighting, which surprises me, yours is awesome.
Once again, you are the most helpful Lego content creator I have seen on RUclips. Keep it up!
Thanks 😊
when are we getting a city update? hope you are well
When I get a chance to work on it. My new ventures are keeping me rather busy. All city updates though are now posted on my other channel. Last one was 2 weeks ago.
@@BevinsBricksWorld can't wait! thanks!
i have done the modifications to my lego parts to hide and make it the wires as hidden as possible in my few lego techinic hyper cars. I did drill holes through the studs and such to wire the wires straight through. I did use tiles for the light heads but i was able to use a nail file to partly file the top of the modified plates. I was able to get it to fit the lights and still hold the tills on. wasn't that hard just slow.
Yeah very slow I'm sure. If you want to do that I would recommend buying jewelry files it might make it easier for you.
@@BevinsBricksWorld surprisingly it was not that hard. or that slow but tricky to get it to be slanted just right.
Thanks for the great video Daryl. The only thing I will say is that you need to slow down a bit. lol
Lol, I edit a lot of breaks out, I found it helps with viewer retention doing the videos this way. My old videos averaged 30%, this style I average 70% 😀
Love these LED’s but unfortunately they would not thread up through a telescope piece, even when I modified it using a drill to widen the hole.
Never tried to do them, I would think they are to thin to drill out with a 1/8 bit though.
The other day the lights that I use I managed to cut one of the wires, it wasn't that hard to fix just a bit shorter now.
Yeah just solder them back up, you can ever twist them together shrink wrap.
@@BevinsBricksWorld hm ya you could, but I don't have shrink that small.
Redcoat Kyle appears in a lot of my livestreams and he’s been heavily inspired by your lighting techniques
I was thinking of using led tape
That works as well.
About to do my first light kit and keep wondering why Lego doesn’t make more Lit bricks and will they ever make more lit bricks
Lego had several lighting products years ago, but they are typically to large and bulky for people to be interested