I want to mention if you're going to do this flush on 97-03 models, and if it's been years since it's been done, or never done at all, folks may want to think about doing the oil filter adapter plate gasket replacement if they haven't already. The adapter plate is also the "water neck" for the lower radiator hose on the bottom of the engine block. When the gasket o-rings start to go it will allow the coolant to start begin seeping into the oil passages when the coolant hits its max pressure, this will worsen over time and eventually destroy the engine. You'll know the o-rings are going if you have an oil leak from around where the lower radiator hose joins the block, or around the oil filter, but you've maybe never been able to quite figure out where it's leaking from. Flushing out the coolant system may remove deposits built up around the adapter plate gasket and may make it leak the coolant into the oil at that point. Just a heads up. Great video btw, I needed to see where the block drain was as I'm going to do a drain and flush now that I replaced the gasket, and this was perfect. Thanks.
I just did a flush a different way on my 2001 f150 by detaching the main bottom and top radiator hoses and took out the thermostat then ran water from a hose through the engine block, radiator, and reserve tank until clean. (The old radoator fluid and water i ran through came out straight brown lol) Do u think that wouldve cleared off the deposits around that gasket ur talking about enough to cause any leakage into the systems? I didnt use any flush cleaning products so i feel like im safe in that department but just want ur opinion
I'm here as well due to the adapter gasket failure..happened in every 5.4 I've owned . I've never seen coolant in the oil though due to it. I have oil in my coolant system..reservoir was dark brown
4 year old video and still helping out folks like myself. I just couldn’t get my coolant system properly bled and this video helped me achieve that. Unfortunately I couldn’t access the drain plug on my f150 since the motor mount sits right on top of it but I got a lot of old fluid out. Thanks a million 🙏🏼
Being that I have a 2001 5.4 f-150, it's even white too haha, these videos are awesome for learning new maintenance practices. Impressive editing too. I appreciate it!
If you skip around a install/replacement video .. 1. You are mechanically inclined and 2. This means it is still a damn good informative video for novices!👍🏼meaning the extra information semi exp people skip is still useful to inexperienced 👍🏼
At last. A proper video on a coolant swap. I am facing this on my 18 Explorer and I must use a shop and I do not trust any of them. It is a easy scam and even easier to have it done wrong. Probably will end up with a gallon drained out and a gallon put in. I dare say most tecks do not know it has a block drain. Amazing job. If I knew I would get a job like that, I would be in the shop tomorrow!🦇
Thank you Insane Oil. This video along with a few others that you posted have been helpful and much appreciated. I basically followed the steps that you outlined here, though I used distilled water for the flush, thinking that some water might remain trapped after the flush....and to have empty containers to carry the old fluid away for proper disposal. Another commenter noted that the heater core was not flushed which I did not even consider as I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) it is inaccessible and at a higher point and therefore should mostly all drain out. Once completed, I did have some doubts about how much was flushed out, as the amount that could be refilled came up short when compared to the owner's manual capacity specification. Still it was good to get the bulk of the old coolant out. To add to your note about socket/wrench sizes needed to complete the job, 5/16" is 7.95 mm, so I found that my 8mm hex socket fit the engine block antifreeze drain plug quite well. I would echo the other person cautioning about using permatex-high-temperature-threadlocker-red, as the manufacturer states "Cured Threadlocker must be heated to 500° to 600°F (260° to 316°C) before parts will separate", which I would not want to do in the future. I used permatex-thread-sealant-high-temperature in a small white tube, as that was about all my local auto parts store had in stock. So far it has not leaked, but the truck has not been driven very far yet.
Sounds like a successful repair. I did remove the bolt about a year later during another video: ruclips.net/video/JknqTQNP2Mc/видео.html and although it was quite tight, I did not need to use heat to remove it. The concerns about the Permatex Red are warranted through.
Thank you for this video. I would like to confirm that Red Loctite 272 or Red Threadlocker High Temp is definitely what you want for the engine block plug.
This video was really detailed and helpful i wish i wouldve watched it before takin it to Valvoline to get it done. I dont mind paying i just wanted it to get done right but my coolant is STILL brown
Great video but one thing of course. Burping is a major concern, Mechanics say to raise the front of the vehicle to help air rise and let the vehicle run for 20 minutes with heat on high...add fluid as necessary. The only detail missing I saw. Thank you for making it. I’m doing my 2003 f150. This video helped back my other research almost 100%
Great video. My 2001 5.4 v8 triton calls for roughly 24 quarts (6 gallons). My issue is that I can only seem to get about 3 gallons of coolant back into the engine after the flush, even after running it and driving it a while. During the flush(s), I got it to operating temperature, cut power, then removed the engine block drain, and opened the radiator drain, letting it completely empty every time before the next cycle. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I just want I just want to say that you're a video is one of the best ones I've ever seen as far as being informative and detailed the thing I didn't that I would have liked to know and it is what to clean the reservoir out with am I going to use the flush and if I do use the flush how do I initiate it then to the system other than that your videos very good
If you read the directions on the flush product, it should step your through the process. I cleaned out the reservoir with a bottle brush and warm soapy water. Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Just make sure the coolant doesn't leak down the driveway to the street. That coolant is highly toxic to animals who may drink from puddles. I think that's how my dog got sick. Good informative video keep up the good work
I use Propylene Glycol coolant www.amsoil.com/p/low-toxicity-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458 but yes, if you are using Ethylene Glycol it is highly toxic.
I see that you driveway i sloping towards the back of the truck and you also added jack stands. Do you want this much lift on the front end of the truck? Just so the flush works better? Idk please lmk
@@InsaneOil thanks for the reply! I was gifted a 2001 F150 5.4 and I’m getting around to doing all the required maintenance. I was going to do an oil change, but as soon a took off the oil filler cap, I saw there was a bunch of dark yellow/ brown slime on the cap and the tube going down into the engine. I know this isn’t right. What do you recommend I do?
Thanks for taking time to post this. My 2001 F-150 Owner's guide says use "Ford Premium Engine Coolant (green in color). DO NOT USE Ford Extended Life Coolant (orange in color). If I'm not using Amsoil, what is an appropriate coolant at any autoparts store?
Great video but he's only taking out the drain on the left side of the engine. This leaves the right side with only water until the new antifreeze circulates. Draining the right side is difficult but that's the only way to drain the right side sediment. The drain plug is behind the motor mount.
That plug on the bottom of the engine block makes me just want to take it down to my local mom and pop garage and have them do it.....they are better equipped to handle not only the drained coolant, but also have a lift......the older I get, the less I like to crawl under my vehicles, lol.
How does rust in the coolant system happen ? Is that only up north where there is snow ? I have the same truck and coolant looks clean from the resvoir , debating if I should just top it off or if it’s time for a flush
Rust occurs when the coolant has lost its ability to prevent the rust from forming. Essentially, when the coolant "goes bad" or looses its effectiveness, then rust and corrosion begin to form. Best way to test it is to use a Coolant Test Strip. ruclips.net/video/cWTpe2-i-JA/видео.html
Hi Insane Oil, can you please share the size of the hose that you connected to the drain? It is a good idea to use hose and avoid the mess than drain directly from radiator. Thank you!
The hose had an inside diameter of 3/8". The hose works alright but any way you do it, it will make a mess. I personally don't worry about the mess as I use Amsoil's Non-Toxic Coolant which is biodegradable. www.amsoil.com/p/low-toxicity-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458 If you have a concern with the toxicity of conventional coolant, then I would recommend trying to contain the mess.
@@jackrobertson4043 You are correct that the heater core was not flushed. The Cooling System servicing repair procedures do not call for flushing the heater core. However, if you have sediment/corrosion buildup in your system, I would recommend purchasing a cooling system flush product and following the directions on the packaging. On a side note, the heater core itself only holds a minimal amount of coolant.
You are correct that the heater core will dump old coolant back into the system. However, the repair procedures do not call for flushing the heater core. Additionally, the heater core only holds a minimal amount of coolant.
Once I unscrewed the drainage screw on my truck , nothing really came out . My reservoir was filled not completely but a little low. Could it be clogged?
My spec sheet says the system has an initial fill of about 24 quarts (6 gallons). That is about 14 1/2 quarts (3.625 gallons) of coolant and 9 1/2 quarts (2.375 gallons) of distilled water. www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2001/ford/f150-pickup/5-4l-8-cyl-engine-code-l-l/?zo=10458
I don't think it is necessarily "better" to mix it by yourself. I think some people think that if they buy the premixed than they are just wasting money buying 50% water. For the majority of people, I think it is just more convenient to buy the premixed. For me personally, I run propylene glycol, rather than ethylene glycol, and it is not sold as a premixed solution.
@@InsaneOil I e always felt 50/50 was just more convenient. It’s what we always put in forklifts when I was doing PMs, but it seems every time I watch a video with coolant, everyone prefers concentrated. Your response makes sense, though (propylene glycol).
Im about to do this on my 2004 f150 5.4L. My heater already doesn’t work, would that have anything to do with my coolant system not being bled, or would that be my heater core or how would i know?
There is a variety of reasons why you might not have heat… The first, simplest solution would be to see if you were low on coolant… Flushing the system might also help… It could also be that your thermostat is stuck in the open position…it could also be that the heater core has failed…lots of reasons without having more info.
No heater, last owner I can visibly tell had cut a hole to access blend door, all vents blow cold air, truck gets up to temp normally, no over heating, not low on coolant, coolant looks a bit murky and have a white ish smoke that is not super thick but smells that comes out of my exhaust. Would that help with diagnosing why a 98 V8 4.6lt f150's heater does not work?
Not absolutely necessary. However, it will help clear more of the debris out. I suppose you could continue to run water through until the tainted coolant is so diluted that the vast majority is cleaned.
Pulled it, filled it up with warm soapy water and used a brush. You could also fill it with vinegar water and soak it for a couple hours. Just make sure you get it washed out before you reinstall it.
Not necessarily. If the lowest points on the vehicle (the block drain plug and the radiator drain plug) are removed gravity should remove pretty much everything.
My over flow is full of pitch black stuff, so is the master cylinder…i just got this truck so im doing all the fluids but if anyone has other things they can recommend id appreciate it
I'd recommend changing the coolant, removing the overflow, cleaning it, reinstalling it and the monitoring to see if it becomes black again. If it does, there may be a leak into the cooling system.
You can run either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. I have always run propylene glycol and recommend that. www.amsoil.com/p/low-toxicity-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458
Insane Oil it does have one on both sides on mine I discovered, however no one has a spare bolt to sell, and when I went to dealerships and part stores they all didn’t sell it.
@@garrettglauser8824 Not 100% sure if this is the correct one. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-pipe-plug-c.s.-square-1-2-14-npt-head-size-3-8-in.-sold-by-each-090-100/22140250-P?searchTerm=dorman%20plug OR shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-pipe-plug-square-1-2-14-npt-head-size-9-16-in-sold-by-each-090-002/22140218-P?searchTerm=dorman+plug
You are correct that the heater core was not flushed. The Cooling System servicing repair procedures do not call for flushing the heater core. However, if you have sediment/corrosion buildup in your system, I would recommend purchasing a cooling system flush product and following the directions on the packaging. On a side note, the heater core itself only holds a minimal amount of coolant.
Good video, however,. there is no reason to turn the heat control up or even have the HVAC system on. In this case, water is always circulating through the heater core. The temperature controls only open blend doors in the ducting to force air over the heater core to put hot air in the cabin. Some newer modal cars do have a valve that opens or closes circulation in the heater core, but not the 97-03 F150's.
I am currently doing a repair video (should be finished and uploaded this week) which I had to pull the plug...it was tight but got it out without any issues.
@@InsaneOil you know what's crazy but a reality.. Is someone will be watching your video and actually get confused.. You will call it a radiator expansion cap literally while your touching it and pulling it off and some dummy will be like wait what.. What's a radiator expansion cap.. I've never heard of that...I know what a radiator cap is but what's this expansion thing... Amazing how dumb people can be in this world... And my first comment wasn't me being a dink I was just playing around but a little bit serious for the others..
Pull the reservoir, fill it with soap and water or vinegar and water, let it sit for a couple hours, shake it around, use a bottle brush to get inside it, or buy a new reservoir. Make sure you clean it out very well before reinstalling it.
@@InsaneOil It's done. I rinsed it with a cleaner for 200 miles, rinsed it again until clear water came out. Then put in about 1.5 gallons of coolant with as much wawa. This after a new serpentine belt and hoses.
One of the best how to videos I have ever seen
COMPLETELY agree!
Agreed! They all need to be this detailed
How great is this guy! He's like a walking taking repair manual! He doesn't skip a thing.
I think his name is Chilton Hanes, he sounds like he is reading from both
@@ShortCrypticTales Yes, the repair manual is my primary source of directions...and that is Mr. Chilton Hanes to you.
I want to mention if you're going to do this flush on 97-03 models, and if it's been years since it's been done, or never done at all, folks may want to think about doing the oil filter adapter plate gasket replacement if they haven't already. The adapter plate is also the "water neck" for the lower radiator hose on the bottom of the engine block. When the gasket o-rings start to go it will allow the coolant to start begin seeping into the oil passages when the coolant hits its max pressure, this will worsen over time and eventually destroy the engine. You'll know the o-rings are going if you have an oil leak from around where the lower radiator hose joins the block, or around the oil filter, but you've maybe never been able to quite figure out where it's leaking from. Flushing out the coolant system may remove deposits built up around the adapter plate gasket and may make it leak the coolant into the oil at that point. Just a heads up. Great video btw, I needed to see where the block drain was as I'm going to do a drain and flush now that I replaced the gasket, and this was perfect. Thanks.
I just did a flush a different way on my 2001 f150 by detaching the main bottom and top radiator hoses and took out the thermostat then ran water from a hose through the engine block, radiator, and reserve tank until clean. (The old radoator fluid and water i ran through came out straight brown lol) Do u think that wouldve cleared off the deposits around that gasket ur talking about enough to cause any leakage into the systems? I didnt use any flush cleaning products so i feel like im safe in that department but just want ur opinion
What are the odds of the happening?
I'm here as well due to the adapter gasket failure..happened in every 5.4 I've owned . I've never seen coolant in the oil though due to it. I have oil in my coolant system..reservoir was dark brown
Does this count for the 4.2 engine also? I do have an oil leak that I cant pin down. I just thought it was my oil pan.
I'm addicted to pigger nussy 🤠
This is hands down the best car maintenance video I’ve see . It’s slow well shot and informative. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
What you said!
Hands down the best how to video. Clearly spoken, great viewing angles and every step recorded. New subscriber!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
4 year old video and still helping out folks like myself. I just couldn’t get my coolant system properly bled and this video helped me achieve that. Unfortunately I couldn’t access the drain plug on my f150 since the motor mount sits right on top of it but I got a lot of old fluid out. Thanks a million 🙏🏼
Thank you for the comment. Sounds like a successful repair.
This is literally best DIY mechanic style vid I have ever watched. Great job
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it.
Once again, Thank You for another informative and well done instructional video! They are appreciated,
This guy is so thorough and to the point. It's refreshing
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Being that I have a 2001 5.4 f-150, it's even white too haha, these videos are awesome for learning new maintenance practices. Impressive editing too. I appreciate it!
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
If you skip around a install/replacement video .. 1. You are mechanically inclined and 2. This means it is still a damn good informative video for novices!👍🏼meaning the extra information semi exp people skip is still useful to inexperienced 👍🏼
At last. A proper video on a coolant swap. I am facing this on my 18 Explorer and I must use a shop and I do not trust any of them. It is a easy scam and even easier to have it done wrong. Probably will end up with a gallon drained out and a gallon put in. I dare say most tecks do not know it has a block drain. Amazing job. If I knew I would get a job like that, I would be in the shop tomorrow!🦇
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thank you Insane Oil. This video along with a few others that you posted have been helpful and much appreciated.
I basically followed the steps that you outlined here, though I used distilled water for the flush, thinking that some water might remain trapped after the flush....and to have empty containers to carry the old fluid away for proper disposal. Another commenter noted that the heater core was not flushed which I did not even consider as I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) it is inaccessible and at a higher point and therefore should mostly all drain out. Once completed, I did have some doubts about how much was flushed out, as the amount that could be refilled came up short when compared to the owner's manual capacity specification. Still it was good to get the bulk of the old coolant out.
To add to your note about socket/wrench sizes needed to complete the job, 5/16" is 7.95 mm, so I found that my 8mm hex socket fit the engine block antifreeze drain plug quite well. I would echo the other person cautioning about using permatex-high-temperature-threadlocker-red, as the manufacturer states "Cured Threadlocker must be heated to 500° to 600°F (260° to 316°C) before parts will separate", which I would not want to do in the future. I used permatex-thread-sealant-high-temperature in a small white tube, as that was about all my local auto parts store had in stock. So far it has not leaked, but the truck has not been driven very far yet.
Sounds like a successful repair. I did remove the bolt about a year later during another video: ruclips.net/video/JknqTQNP2Mc/видео.html and although it was quite tight, I did not need to use heat to remove it. The concerns about the Permatex Red are warranted through.
Dude, this is one of the best auto DIY videos I have ever seen.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thank you for this video. I would like to confirm that Red Loctite 272 or Red Threadlocker High Temp is definitely what you want for the engine block plug.
I could watch video's like this all day long :) thanks Insane oil!
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your repair.
Subscribed simply because of how thorough u are
Much appreciated. I try to do a complete job.
What a great video, very thorough and understandable. You've created the best how to video I've ever seen. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
This video was really detailed and helpful i wish i wouldve watched it before takin it to Valvoline to get it done. I dont mind paying i just wanted it to get done right but my coolant is STILL brown
Thank you for the comment. Be sure to check out my other 2001 F150 Videos at ruclips.net/video/UVp5ajGNHWA/видео.html
Great video but one thing of course. Burping is a major concern, Mechanics say to raise the front of the vehicle to help air rise and let the vehicle run for 20 minutes with heat on high...add fluid as necessary. The only detail missing I saw. Thank you for making it. I’m doing my 2003 f150. This video helped back my other research almost 100%
Agreed. Great tip.
What if your truck heat does not work?
Once again, you put out another excellent video. I gotta perform this on my truck as well. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Incredibly detailed video, thank you for taking the time to do so.
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thank you. Very detailed. The call outs are very helpful. One of the best video.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
So good! Great easy to follow walk through
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Great video. My 2001 5.4 v8 triton calls for roughly 24 quarts (6 gallons). My issue is that I can only seem to get about 3 gallons of coolant back into the engine after the flush, even after running it and driving it a while.
During the flush(s), I got it to operating temperature, cut power, then removed the engine block drain, and opened the radiator drain, letting it completely empty every time before the next cycle. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I am not sure where Ford came up with the 6 gallon number. I also was never able to remove (or add) 6 gallons.
I love how this guy explains everything 💋
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I just want I just want to say that you're a video is one of the best ones I've ever seen as far as being informative and detailed the thing I didn't that I would have liked to know and it is what to clean the reservoir out with am I going to use the flush and if I do use the flush how do I initiate it then to the system other than that your videos very good
If you read the directions on the flush product, it should step your through the process. I cleaned out the reservoir with a bottle brush and warm soapy water. Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Excellent video. You’ve got yourself another subscriber.
Thank you for the comment. Much appreciated.
Just make sure the coolant doesn't leak down the driveway to the street. That coolant is highly toxic to animals who may drink from puddles. I think that's how my dog got sick. Good informative video keep up the good work
I use Propylene Glycol coolant www.amsoil.com/p/low-toxicity-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458 but yes, if you are using Ethylene Glycol it is highly toxic.
What an Awesome video!
Thats how you work on a ford right there!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Great video! Was wondering if you are using the gold antifreezeor yellow?
I actually use Amsoil Propylene Glycol Antifreeze - www.amsoil.com/p/propylene-glycol-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458
I see that you driveway i sloping towards the back of the truck and you also added jack stands. Do you want this much lift on the front end of the truck? Just so the flush works better? Idk please lmk
Jack stands are a redundancy in case the rhino ramps fail and the truck falls.
@@InsaneOil thanks for the reply! I was gifted a 2001 F150 5.4 and I’m getting around to doing all the required maintenance. I was going to do an oil change, but as soon a took off the oil filler cap, I saw there was a bunch of dark yellow/ brown slime on the cap and the tube going down into the engine. I know this isn’t right. What do you recommend I do?
@@todayscatch5471 I'd recommend running Amsoil Engine Flush when you do your oil change. www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=10458
very proper coolant flush, by the book. great work
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Excellent tutorial - well done!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
When you run the engine for the second time with new coolant, do you leave the radiator cap off? Or just the first cycle?
Just the first cycle. However, check it regularly over the next couple days and top off as necessary.
Great video . Smooth and easy
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
This is a very thorough video!
👏🏿👍🏿👏🏿
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Good job explaining with the vid. Top knotch!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thanks for taking time to post this. My 2001 F-150 Owner's guide says use "Ford Premium Engine Coolant (green in color). DO NOT USE Ford Extended Life Coolant (orange in color). If I'm not using Amsoil, what is an appropriate coolant at any autoparts store?
Traditional green coolant will work just fine.
Great video but he's only taking out the drain on the left side of the engine. This leaves the right side with only water until the new antifreeze circulates. Draining the right side is difficult but that's the only way to drain the right side sediment. The drain plug is behind the motor mount.
Thanks for the comment, the tip is much appreciated. The repair manual did not specific a second drain plug on the right side.
That plug on the bottom of the engine block makes me just want to take it down to my local mom and pop garage and have them do it.....they are better equipped to handle not only the drained coolant, but also have a lift......the older I get, the less I like to crawl under my vehicles, lol.
WOW amazing video, amazing social effects..
How does rust in the coolant system happen ? Is that only up north where there is snow ? I have the same truck and coolant looks clean from the resvoir , debating if I should just top it off or if it’s time for a flush
Rust occurs when the coolant has lost its ability to prevent the rust from forming. Essentially, when the coolant "goes bad" or looses its effectiveness, then rust and corrosion begin to form. Best way to test it is to use a Coolant Test Strip. ruclips.net/video/cWTpe2-i-JA/видео.html
what size drain tube did you use?
Inside diameter .375
Hey buddy what’s the block plug part number the one I took off was rotten
Thank you sir for this video. Going to do mine this weekend.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Awesome vid
Thanks for the help dude!!!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Hi Insane Oil, can you please share the size of the hose that you connected to the drain? It is a good idea to use hose and avoid the mess than drain directly from radiator. Thank you!
The hose had an inside diameter of 3/8". The hose works alright but any way you do it, it will make a mess. I personally don't worry about the mess as I use Amsoil's Non-Toxic Coolant which is biodegradable. www.amsoil.com/p/low-toxicity-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458 If you have a concern with the toxicity of conventional coolant, then I would recommend trying to contain the mess.
The Heater core must also be flushed or it will dump old coolant back into the system.
Jolinator how do you do that?
You are right Jolinator , The procedure in this video is not a complete cooling system flush .
@@jackrobertson4043 You are correct that the heater core was not flushed. The Cooling System servicing repair procedures do not call for flushing the heater core. However, if you have sediment/corrosion buildup in your system, I would recommend purchasing a cooling system flush product and following the directions on the packaging. On a side note, the heater core itself only holds a minimal amount of coolant.
You are correct that the heater core will dump old coolant back into the system. However, the repair procedures do not call for flushing the heater core. Additionally, the heater core only holds a minimal amount of coolant.
Once I unscrewed the drainage screw on my truck , nothing really came out . My reservoir was filled not completely but a little low. Could it be clogged?
Yes. I would assume you have a fair amount of sediment buildup.
Just to be sure how many gallons of 40% distilled/60% coolant does it require
My spec sheet says the system has an initial fill of about 24 quarts (6 gallons). That is about 14 1/2 quarts (3.625 gallons) of coolant and 9 1/2 quarts (2.375 gallons) of distilled water. www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2001/ford/f150-pickup/5-4l-8-cyl-engine-code-l-l/?zo=10458
What size tube was used to drain the anti freeze?
Why is it people prefer to get concentrated coolant instead of pre diluted 50/50? Is it really better to mix yourself or purely personal preference?
I don't think it is necessarily "better" to mix it by yourself. I think some people think that if they buy the premixed than they are just wasting money buying 50% water. For the majority of people, I think it is just more convenient to buy the premixed. For me personally, I run propylene glycol, rather than ethylene glycol, and it is not sold as a premixed solution.
@@InsaneOil I e always felt 50/50 was just more convenient. It’s what we always put in forklifts when I was doing PMs, but it seems every time I watch a video with coolant, everyone prefers concentrated. Your response makes sense, though (propylene glycol).
Excellent video !
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Im about to do this on my 2004 f150 5.4L. My heater already doesn’t work, would that have anything to do with my coolant system not being bled, or would that be my heater core or how would i know?
There is a variety of reasons why you might not have heat… The first, simplest solution would be to see if you were low on coolant… Flushing the system might also help… It could also be that your thermostat is stuck in the open position…it could also be that the heater core has failed…lots of reasons without having more info.
No heater, last owner I can visibly tell had cut a hole to access blend door, all vents blow cold air, truck gets up to temp normally, no over heating, not low on coolant, coolant looks a bit murky and have a white ish smoke that is not super thick but smells that comes out of my exhaust. Would that help with diagnosing why a 98 V8 4.6lt f150's heater does not work?
I do need new plugs, so I think that's why I have a rough idle, smoke and not as much horse power.
@@alee5064 I had a similar issue and it ended up being a leak in my coolant crossover. ruclips.net/video/W_UpGwTkr64/видео.html
Is it recommended to use coolant flush chemicals or no?
How long did take you to complete this?
YuSubzero probably took him a little over an hour. You and me, 2-3 hours.
With filming it...about a half a day. If I didn't film it, probably 1-2 hours.
Is it absolutely necessary to remove the block drain plug or can I skip that part?
Not absolutely necessary. However, it will help clear more of the debris out. I suppose you could continue to run water through until the tainted coolant is so diluted that the vast majority is cleaned.
Wow great video 👌🏼
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thanks 👍
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Good job thanks
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Great video, btw
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Omg thank you so much!!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Good job. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
How did you clean out the reservoir?
Pulled it, filled it up with warm soapy water and used a brush. You could also fill it with vinegar water and soak it for a couple hours. Just make sure you get it washed out before you reinstall it.
When you flush the coolant system does it also flush the heater core ?
There is minimal fluid in the heater core. Much of it will drain down through gravity also.
Thanks buddy I appreciated!
Did u have to torque the engine drain bolt? Or does it go in until it's in there snug
The repair manual states "install and tighten" the block plug. It does not specify a torque setting.
@@InsaneOil I ended up stripping the bolt 😭 smh it's going to be a pain wen I overhaul it
Thank you, good explained,,,,
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your repair.
So you flushed the system without the heater core?
Heater core holds minimal coolant and much of that is drained via gravity.
Great video thanks
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Is there a need to remove the thermostat?
Not necessarily. If the lowest points on the vehicle (the block drain plug and the radiator drain plug) are removed gravity should remove pretty much everything.
My over flow is full of pitch black stuff, so is the master cylinder…i just got this truck so im doing all the fluids but if anyone has other things they can recommend id appreciate it
I'd recommend changing the coolant, removing the overflow, cleaning it, reinstalling it and the monitoring to see if it becomes black again. If it does, there may be a leak into the cooling system.
EXCELLENT VIDEO,& WELL EXPLAINED ,WILL BE A NEW SUBSRIBER,THANK YOU !!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
i cant find the drain block plug? can you help me locate it better Insane Oil?
Any luck?
What size is that hose you use to plug into the drain plug
I used 3/8" I.D. Oil Cooler Hose. www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-112-Engine-Cooler/dp/B000HE5G0S
What coolant is recommended for this vehicle?
You can run either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. I have always run propylene glycol and recommend that. www.amsoil.com/p/low-toxicity-antifreeze-and-engine-coolant-ant/?zo=10458
how did you clean the reservoir? mine is coated with gunk.
Soap and water…stick a brush down there. You could also soak it with vinegar/water for a couple hours.
@@InsaneOil ok, thank you, wonderful easy to follow video!
The block drain plug is a Torx 50.
What’s the part number I need a new one buddy?
THANK YOU.
You are welcome.
Is this process the same for the 4.6L?
The process should be very similar. Some engines have a block drain plug on both sides.
Insane Oil it does have one on both sides on mine I discovered, however no one has a spare bolt to sell, and when I went to dealerships and part stores they all didn’t sell it.
@@garrettglauser8824 Not 100% sure if this is the correct one. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-pipe-plug-c.s.-square-1-2-14-npt-head-size-3-8-in.-sold-by-each-090-100/22140250-P?searchTerm=dorman%20plug OR shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-pipe-plug-square-1-2-14-npt-head-size-9-16-in-sold-by-each-090-002/22140218-P?searchTerm=dorman+plug
Insane Oil thanks for the reply
I noticed that my truck after changing the thermostat because it was stuck closed would blow out cold air what's causing that
If I understand your statement correctly, you changed your thermostat because it was stuck closed and now it blows cold air?
What is the Inside Diameter of hose for attaching to drain spigot?
Inside Diameter of the hose is .375
Muchas gracias brother
Desde México
De nada. Gracias por el comentario. Buena suerte con tu reparación.
Is there a block plug drain in a 2006 F150 as seen at 4:29 ?
If you have the 5.4L engine, I believe it is the same.
And the Heather core?
You are correct that the heater core was not flushed. The Cooling System servicing repair procedures do not call for flushing the heater core. However, if you have sediment/corrosion buildup in your system, I would recommend purchasing a cooling system flush product and following the directions on the packaging. On a side note, the heater core itself only holds a minimal amount of coolant.
Will this help out blow hotter air when the heat is on?
Yes. Having clean, fresh coolant will allow better heat transfer.
I have noticed my f150 the last couple winter ls the heater is barely blowing warm air, any other things that could affect that?
@@h1maldonado05 I have had where my coolant is slightly low and it caused almost no heat. Other than that...a thermostat that is sticking.
Insane Oil awesome, thanks for replying man! Might have a few questions down the line... 4x4 not working for example
@@h1maldonado05 Perfect...I'm more than happy to help out if I am able to.
Good video, however,. there is no reason to turn the heat control up or even have the HVAC system on. In this case, water is always circulating through the heater core. The temperature controls only open blend doors in the ducting to force air over the heater core to put hot air in the cabin. Some newer modal cars do have a valve that opens or closes circulation in the heater core, but not the 97-03 F150's.
I agree with you.
Play video at 1.5x. You're welcome.
Or you could play it at 0.5x speed. You're welcome.
What size hose fits on radiator drain port
I used 3/8 I.D. Oiler Cooler Hose. www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-112-Engine-Cooler/dp/B000HE5G0S
Thought you are supposed to use distilled water
Thanks for the comment. Yes, you are suppose to use distilled water when you make your coolant mix. Timecode 8:55 in the video.
Loctite Red for that plug? That requires heat to remove. This is the last time that plug comes out! The blue would've been fine, imho.
Permatex Red was used at the recommendation of my parts dealer. I agree that Permatex Blue would be sufficient.
I am currently doing a repair video (should be finished and uploaded this week) which I had to pull the plug...it was tight but got it out without any issues.
Y que pasa si se rompe el tampón de drenado
shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/2001-ford-f-150-radiator-drain-plug.c5738
I tried to drain the coolant but it came out drip by drip
It happens. Could be build up around the petcock. Try unscrewing it all the way out.
Where is the block plug
Driver side. Although the repair manual claims there are two block plugs (one on each side), but my engine did not have two.
hahaha those extensions
Gotta do what you gotta do.
He must have a mouse in his pocket. He keeps saying "we"
It's you and me doing this repair and we successfully completed it.
Its you, you are the mouse in his pocket.
@@emanuelemanuel7038 And we are in this together.
Come on man... You don't need to say radiator expansion cap.. Just call it a radiator cap
I generally like to follow the terminology used in the repair manuals.
@@InsaneOil you know what's crazy but a reality.. Is someone will be watching your video and actually get confused.. You will call it a radiator expansion cap literally while your touching it and pulling it off and some dummy will be like wait what.. What's a radiator expansion cap.. I've never heard of that...I know what a radiator cap is but what's this expansion thing... Amazing how dumb people can be in this world... And my first comment wasn't me being a dink I was just playing around but a little bit serious for the others..
For Gods sake dude. Clean the engine bay and vacuum the interior. Own and operate your stuff like a white man.
Noted.
Awesome - A bit annal but that's what I needed. Any tips on cleaning the reservoir of rusty chunks
Pull the reservoir, fill it with soap and water or vinegar and water, let it sit for a couple hours, shake it around, use a bottle brush to get inside it, or buy a new reservoir. Make sure you clean it out very well before reinstalling it.
@@InsaneOil It's done. I rinsed it with a cleaner for 200 miles, rinsed it again until clear water came out. Then put in about 1.5 gallons of coolant with as much wawa. This after a new serpentine belt and hoses.
@@SpearChuck777 Sounds like it was a successful repair.