The bass seems to have a natural Primus whang to its sound. All I could think while you were playing is that you have to get one of these into Les Claypool's hands. Fantastic job. It's beautiful and obviously sounds great (to my ear at least).
Seeing as Les has his own bass company (had?) and a decades long relationship with Carl Thompson, I sadly scratched him off the list of potential customers. Every one else is fair game, tho!
What if you had sideways-mounted thumbwheel knobs like those on a Jazzmaster or Jaguar? Maybe have them a bit bigger, not quite as recessed (for easier access), but the woodgrain of the knobs could blend in with that of the body if they're positioned just right. If nothing else, the amount of space they take up could be curbed a whole lot.
This design has really grown on me. The disappeared pickup is a great improvement. I like the look of the original bridge better, looking like it grew naturally out of the body, but I understand the practical improvements the new one brings. Thanks for sharing!
This tree with strings is growing in the right direction. There is a bag full of tree puns that I could be used. But it's Sunday afternoon, and I'm just too sleepy in the sun. But enough to say, it's going great.
I think the current version looks awesome. I actually like the look of the tone and volume knobs and how much they stand out, breaking up the form just a little. Can’t wait to see what else you can come up with though
Hollow headstock and planetary tuners - a set of 5 for the cello should be just about right. Mount the pickup under an adjustable finger ramp. Could make a pile of pickups in finger ramps and people would probably buy a lot of them plus they seem fun to build. It's something I've thought about having for a long time, maybe some one else has too.
Man, I wish you weren't all the way across the country from me- I really want to try this thing out!!! For hiding the knobs, you could recess the edge of the top part so the pots can be attached to the bottom section and be level with the top. I own a guitar I want to show you for an idea on this- look up Micro-Frets version 1 from '67 and '68. They hide the knobs between 2 layers of pickguard.
Very nice, you've made some really good improvements! I have made a couple basses with wooden bridges, the lack of adjustability is always a challenge. I've buried knobs in sides, at least in my case it wasn't easy. I think knobs look fine where they are.
Looks great. I've seen some dingwalls with wooden battery covers that are held in place with magnets. It would totally suit your build. Anyway, love watching the learning process and the evolution of your work
I really enjoy your approach and design. Great work, looks and sounds great. Especially the boutique esque super natural vibe. If I'm ever in the states and happen to be nearby I'd be sure to drop over to check some of your instruments.
Tim I have to piggyback the last comment about your new bass guitars yes they do have that les clay pool twangy sound and I would love to see you do a reunion concert with your band mates again
Hey Tim! Love seeing how this design has shaped up over the last couple years. If you want to hide the knobs better while keeping them on the front, have you considered making the knobs out of the cutoffs from the holes for the knobs? So it's the same piece of wood and the grain is continuous? Not sure if this makes sense or is what you're looking for, just an idea
oh I have! the problem is the kerf of the tool. To efficiently do this on the cnc, I need a cutter at least a 1/8" thick so there's be a 1/8" gap around the interior of the hole. It's too thick to do on the laser where there would be no kerf as the knobs themselves need to be a little higher than the body to house the sleeve. You are definitely thinking like me! But I already went down that rabbit hole and came up empty handed :(
@@timsway Hey Tim, I love what you do, and how you go about it. 2 potential ideas come to mind: First, a two-part process. Since you're already coming in through the back using the CNC, you could do the knobs as a blind hole, then finish the cut up top with the laser, to whatever depth your tool is capable of. You'd probably need to sleeve the resulting knob, but I think that might get a pretty good (or at least interesting) looking result. Second idea (not very sure about this one), take a generous shaving with a well setup hand plane before starting your operations on the top, and use that as a veneer. It'd be a lot thinner than veneer from resawing, so maybe a little fussy. A lot less wasteful, though.
@@timsway make a concentric hole, press a bearing race into it, then press the matching bearing into a concentric knob, with the pot coming up through the center and using a lock nut through the knob (has a plug in the top of the knob) to adjust the knob actual height inside the race. or you can built the whole thing as a plug and use a plate on the backside to press fit and secure your knob assembly, which is now fully removable for repair or mod.
86th LIKE posted early in view 448. One of my fave builds. The Countertop (Corian) Bass is still near the top. 10:22 still liking how the strings just sorta 'disappear' into their anchorage in the body... very 'stealthy' on this one; the prototype still looks like a winner. Its minimalistic look is just so sleek & slick. 0:40 - that's what I'm talkin'bout.
I love those front mounted 'just wood' knobs on the front, don't change that, its an integral part of the 'all-wood' aesthetic. However the back looks somewhat untidy, so many different wood patterns going on but access is important and it is at least, all round the back. That said, the lazy wood sound is so sexy, and thats where it counts! Very cool, Tim. (my playing days are long gone but you made me wonder..."just how much is he asking for one of these?")
The design is looking better every time! I think it would look really nice as a headless bass as well. BTW, you don't have to cut the pickup wires. You can carefully remove the wires from the plastic socket, pass them through the whole and push them back into the socket...
oh cool. I'll try that next time. I was afraid I'd never get them back in the socket right. I agree headless would look cool up top but it would add metal and mass to the body that I definitely don't want. I'm seriously considering old-school cello pegs up top, but planetary, like a banjo :)
Super cool bass. I think visually, the new bridge doesn't jive with the rest of the design due to the geometric chamfers. I think a more rounded shape would work better, or possibly you could add those same chamfers to the knobs for continuity. I think the knobs need something else for comfort and visual appeal, either chamfered or filleted edges or a maybe a sloping profile
love it. Really nice. I know a lot about knobs. What about spring loaded knobs that you press in and they pop out for use? That way they could remain flush.
This design has definitely got better from a user perspective. Me personally would probably prefer a replaceable nut - you know, just to let people make the action at the nut higher if heeded. And I'm not sure about the bridge and intonation. Anyway, this thing looks reeeally great!
it wouldn't be hard for the owner (or a luthier) to cut a slot and put a traditional nut on the instrument, if the need ever arises. I almost just did that on this model but I figured I'd stay true to the mission and let the owner make that decision, if it becomes necessary.
I wonder if a good solution to hiding the tone and volume knobs would be to go with tone/volume wheels similar to a jazzmaster rhythm circuit. they might not stick out as much and you could position them in line with the wood grain. regardless, i think it looks super cool with the knobs
The knobs on top look fine to me. While everything just carved out from one piece looks cool, I think the idea of separate bridge piece is good from maintenance perspective. I it wears or gets cracked you can just make a new one and change it. If you wanted the metal out of the equation, you could just make a slot for the bridge and make the bridge just the right height or possibly use wooden shims under it for adjustment.
Cool update! The scoop on the treble end looks to be a great addition, both aesthetically and functionally. Very unique look with the hidden pickup.. would be curious as to how much of a tonal difference is noticeable vs. the average height where you might normally expect a standard setup with an external/adjustable pickup to be at. Thanks for sharing another cool build! Cheers
The pickup is pretty much the same distance from the strings as a traditional bass, maybe just a couple mm further, but within a "normal" range. the wood between the pickup and strings is less than .2.5mm thick
@@timsway Nice! I assume the tonal difference might be more noticeable hiding a pickup internally with a fretted neck where the strings would then be sitting higher away from the body... very cool design. 🙂
Nice work Tim! I really like both versions but I can also see why you want to keep tweaking the design. As far as those knobs, I might make them a little smaller with more of a round on the edges as well as adding a little knurling texture. Just an idea. 👍👍😉😉🎸🎸
Looks great! Have you considered making a lower profile knob, or have it recessed in and towards the edge with a wider knob so it's more like a dial? Something more akin to function of speed settings on power tools idk
Hey Tim. Love your basses. These look really great and I’d love to play one. If it were up to me I’d completely ditch the onboard controls. Once I set my volume and EQ I never touch it and that could easily be done on the amp. I always set all the onboard controls at full.
I love that the pickup is hidden, I've been wondering for a long time if this could work on a guitar. Only criticism is that I feel the original bridge aesthetic is more harmonious with the rest of the design than the new one. I suppose in the same vein, the string through seems to have changed as well, would like to hear why that was done! Really liking the concept.
agreed! like an awesome concept car that gets more traditional by the time it gets to market, the bridge and string retaining changes were made for durability, user-friendliness, longevity, etc.
@@timsway oh yeah I feel ya. Only thing with friction tuners is weighing aesthetic vs ease of tuning… tho it wouldn’t be as much of a pain for bass compared to the current wood peg instrument I have, the 7stringed Baglama. With the Baglama it is recommended you detune after every play so that the strings last longer. Idk how common that is among stringed instruments, tho I do know I would be more motivated if retuning wasn’t required every time I wanted to play. At the end I feel this bass is all about aesthetics (playability is great too but it seems like from the video ya that part down) so even IF retuning is required (maybe it’s not?) then it’s just 4 strings and it would be worth the look and feel…
Hey Tim. Been following you for a long time and you've really been a great role model for me. I was wondering if you have experienced changes in the local area in terms of warpage and if a bit of titanium or truss rods are necessary. Cheers
The neck-through block should be offset because the neck is offset. Like two-thirds/one third... or whatever center is Just so it's centered on the neck
I love this bass Is the g string hitting the fretboard/top behind the bridge? If so, that should be scooped or cut to avoid the string travel from bridge to body
Very nice. I’ve done something similar to cover a pickup. Since the battery is already there have you thought about a piezo in/under the bridge and an active blend?
@@timsway I get it. I have a couple of electric guitars where they do a decent plugged in acoustic imitation but I haven’t found a bass version I’m completely in love with yet.
Everything effects the sound. How much is another story. As a 25+ year vegetarian, I don't use bone (or leather). Corian, brass, aluminum, dense woods, etc. are all viable choices I've used. Heck, I've played a lot of great guitars with plastic nuts that are fine, too. Although I am not a fan of plastic in general.
How do you go about grounding the electronics? In most builds, I see a ground wire going to the bridge, but I don't know if that works here, since the bridge is wood.
this is active so it doesn't need to be to be grounded to the strings, but the trick is to run the ground directly to the string holder, not the bridge.
Tim, really like the look, but how do you think the wooden bridge and nut will stand up over time? With the vibration (no matter how small) of the strings, wouldn't there be a "sawing" action?
@@perryborn2777 I freely admit I don't play it all that much, tho. But regardless, I consider it a non issue. If the nut wears out, cut a slot and put a new nut in. If the bridge wears, carve a new bridge. Just like violins, etc... It's just maintenance, really, and similar to most guitars' maintenance that occasionally needs nut replacements and bridge repairs.
Couldn't you do this instrument with frets too? And just kinda have them run up into the bridge almost lol, really love the design of this instrument but I'm not really a fretless kinda guy
Yes, I did make it that way once, as a 5 string and could on commission, but to me the instrument is really about being fretless: ruclips.net/video/xoJ8b-RIcE8/видео.html
Hi tim, curious to hear if these basses have enough low end?, they seem to lack it. Just curious if it is because of a recording issue, a pickup issue (not strong enough) or if it is because of some construction issue :) dont take this the wrong way :) they sound cool, and whilst not my type of instrument I understand why you chose to use all reclaimed wood. very cool :) Kind regards from a fellow builder :)
practice, make mistakes, learn, set realistic expectations and when you meet them, set new, higher, realistic expectations - but always have a few unrealistic expectations brewing, too, because one day you will all the sudden find them achievable.
not as much. You still want the instrument to be fairly accurate, but violins, cellos and double basses have had fixed wood bridges for centuries and people manage to make good music on them! :)
@@timsway Hi Tim, Thanks for your reply, I really enjoy your videos. I'm asking because I'm interested in building basses myself soon. Violins and Double Basses etc have floating bridges like Banjos. The intonation can be adjusted up and down the scale as needed. Whereas your bass has a completely fixed bridge which means the intonation can't be changed. I was really curious about this, and figured that maybe that just doesn't matter on a fretless since the "fretting" positions aren't fixed. Don't get me wrong, Im not interrogating your methods or trying to pick a fault. I just really want to learn as much as I can about the craft. So, if you were to make a fretted version, would you need to have some way of making the bridge adjustable laterally, not just vertically? The bass is beautiful regardless. Thanks again for your reply. Keep up the great work! P.S, your "I'm the one the neighbours think is crazy" song is like one of my favourite songs ever!
@@ToolsAreToys You can "carve" a little bit of intonation into the bridge or you can do this, which is an option for this bass design: ruclips.net/video/SHuuJEqGWM0/видео.html. In reality if I were to make one of these fretted I could do the fretwire "Hofner" style bridge but with frets the whole point and spirit of this instrument is lost, so I would probably just use a more traditional metal bridge.
The bass seems to have a natural Primus whang to its sound. All I could think while you were playing is that you have to get one of these into Les Claypool's hands. Fantastic job. It's beautiful and obviously sounds great (to my ear at least).
Primus sounding for sure.
Seeing as Les has his own bass company (had?) and a decades long relationship with Carl Thompson, I sadly scratched him off the list of potential customers. Every one else is fair game, tho!
I totally agree!!!
What if you had sideways-mounted thumbwheel knobs like those on a Jazzmaster or Jaguar? Maybe have them a bit bigger, not quite as recessed (for easier access), but the woodgrain of the knobs could blend in with that of the body if they're positioned just right. If nothing else, the amount of space they take up could be curbed a whole lot.
Max Devo - Like the ringer volume wheel on an old rotary phone, mounted in the body… 🤔
This design has really grown on me. The disappeared pickup is a great improvement. I like the look of the original bridge better, looking like it grew naturally out of the body, but I understand the practical improvements the new one brings. Thanks for sharing!
I'm glad I wasn't the only one using foam from a pickup packaging in a bass build I did the same thing!! Good use of otherwise landfill
This is a GREAT design. the ergonomics, the way the neck works as a finger rest.. just outstanding!
This tree with strings is growing in the right direction. There is a bag full of tree puns that I could be used. But it's Sunday afternoon, and I'm just too sleepy in the sun. But enough to say, it's going great.
thanks for not branching out too far from your roots
Point taken...... I hate to be a pine in the A##
Very nifty....... I appreciate the creative thinking. Your instruments are bordering on new inventions......without alienating existing players.
I think the current version looks awesome. I actually like the look of the tone and volume knobs and how much they stand out, breaking up the form just a little. Can’t wait to see what else you can come up with though
Hollow headstock and planetary tuners - a set of 5 for the cello should be just about right.
Mount the pickup under an adjustable finger ramp. Could make a pile of pickups in finger ramps and people would probably buy a lot of them plus they seem fun to build.
It's something I've thought about having for a long time, maybe some one else has too.
Looks AND sounds AMAZING!!!
Man, I wish you weren't all the way across the country from me- I really want to try this thing out!!!
For hiding the knobs, you could recess the edge of the top part so the pots can be attached to the bottom section and be level with the top. I own a guitar I want to show you for an idea on this- look up Micro-Frets version 1 from '67 and '68. They hide the knobs between 2 layers of pickguard.
Damn, I love watching Tim make guitars
Very nice, you've made some really good improvements! I have made a couple basses with wooden bridges, the lack of adjustability is always a challenge. I've buried knobs in sides, at least in my case it wasn't easy. I think knobs look fine where they are.
thanks man. I know, "good enough" right? I think you are also always to make it "a little better"
Looks great. I've seen some dingwalls with wooden battery covers that are held in place with magnets. It would totally suit your build. Anyway, love watching the learning process and the evolution of your work
indeed. that's a good idea.
Just discovered your channel today. Very informative and inspiring, despite my lack of CNC ..)
I really enjoy your approach and design. Great work, looks and sounds great. Especially the boutique esque super natural vibe.
If I'm ever in the states and happen to be nearby I'd be sure to drop over to check some of your instruments.
Tim I have to piggyback the last comment about your new bass guitars yes they do have that les clay pool twangy sound and I would love to see you do a reunion concert with your band mates again
If your "pickguard" featured a large knot in it, you could disguise a stacked set of knobs as a knot.
Version 3.5 looks pretty much ready for production.
I would also make the headstock like the upper horn but in reverse. Maybe using some Steinberger tuners
If you reclaim some knotty wood, you can use those knots as knobs which would give more of that "cut from a tree" kinda look
Hey Tim! Love seeing how this design has shaped up over the last couple years. If you want to hide the knobs better while keeping them on the front, have you considered making the knobs out of the cutoffs from the holes for the knobs? So it's the same piece of wood and the grain is continuous? Not sure if this makes sense or is what you're looking for, just an idea
oh I have! the problem is the kerf of the tool. To efficiently do this on the cnc, I need a cutter at least a 1/8" thick so there's be a 1/8" gap around the interior of the hole. It's too thick to do on the laser where there would be no kerf as the knobs themselves need to be a little higher than the body to house the sleeve. You are definitely thinking like me! But I already went down that rabbit hole and came up empty handed :(
@@timsway Hey Tim, I love what you do, and how you go about it.
2 potential ideas come to mind:
First, a two-part process. Since you're already coming in through the back using the CNC, you could do the knobs as a blind hole, then finish the cut up top with the laser, to whatever depth your tool is capable of. You'd probably need to sleeve the resulting knob, but I think that might get a pretty good (or at least interesting) looking result.
Second idea (not very sure about this one), take a generous shaving with a well setup hand plane before starting your operations on the top, and use that as a veneer. It'd be a lot thinner than veneer from resawing, so maybe a little fussy. A lot less wasteful, though.
@@timsway make a concentric hole, press a bearing race into it, then press the matching bearing into a concentric knob, with the pot coming up through the center and using a lock nut through the knob (has a plug in the top of the knob) to adjust the knob actual height inside the race.
or you can built the whole thing as a plug and use a plate on the backside to press fit and secure your knob assembly, which is now fully removable for repair or mod.
86th LIKE posted early in view 448. One of my fave builds. The Countertop (Corian) Bass is still near the top. 10:22 still liking how the strings just sorta 'disappear' into their anchorage in the body... very 'stealthy' on this one; the prototype still looks like a winner. Its minimalistic look is just so sleek & slick. 0:40 - that's what I'm talkin'bout.
Sorry to have to fix a typo, at the expense of 'losing the love'. Spil Chik isn't helpful most times.
I love those front mounted 'just wood' knobs on the front, don't change that, its an integral part of the 'all-wood' aesthetic. However the back looks somewhat untidy, so many different wood patterns going on but access is important and it is at least, all round the back. That said, the lazy wood sound is so sexy, and thats where it counts! Very cool, Tim. (my playing days are long gone but you made me wonder..."just how much is he asking for one of these?")
I hear you. It would be nice if the covers blended in to the wood on the back...
If you had a small gap in between the two parts, you could likely get a couple of dial wheel pots in there without adding too many processes.
The design is looking better every time! I think it would look really nice as a headless bass as well. BTW, you don't have to cut the pickup wires. You can carefully remove the wires from the plastic socket, pass them through the whole and push them back into the socket...
oh cool. I'll try that next time. I was afraid I'd never get them back in the socket right. I agree headless would look cool up top but it would add metal and mass to the body that I definitely don't want. I'm seriously considering old-school cello pegs up top, but planetary, like a banjo :)
Love the all wood concept, looks great and the wood knobs look natural even if they aren’t grain matched to the top.
Sounds great! maybe some jazzmaster/jaguar style horizontal volume/tone wheels would fit the build?
Nice video, Tim. Gorgeous bass. Less detail requires more detailing. 🤔Mahalo for sharing. 🙂🐒
Wow!!!!I'm a guitar player but I just love this design!!!Tim you have really done it!!!
Can you do a guitar like this!!
I would totally buy one of those.
Fair price, damn decent.
Keep it up.
Super cool bass. I think visually, the new bridge doesn't jive with the rest of the design due to the geometric chamfers. I think a more rounded shape would work better, or possibly you could add those same chamfers to the knobs for continuity. I think the knobs need something else for comfort and visual appeal, either chamfered or filleted edges or a maybe a sloping profile
I really hope you're gonna keep making these until I can afford one!
Man, those are GORGEOUS basses! Love the sound, love the looks!
Sounds and looks awesome
Beautiful instrument!!
Very cool Tim! I dig it!
Sounds good. You must record a bass album.
Love the name, that's a detail I may have missed in the past. Great basses!
Love the bass guitars, Tim. Thanks for the video and inspiration, as always!
Such a beast of an instrument!
Such a cool bass
Very nice bass, sounds good, looks great!
I like the knobs on the front. I don't think it takes away from the look at all.
Looks awesome,I love it 😍
Really nice tone.😊🌄
it's getting better every time! =)
love it. Really nice. I know a lot about knobs. What about spring loaded knobs that you press in and they pop out for use? That way they could remain flush.
fun idea!
Vibe and shape... Awesome man.. really love it. Guitar version super suer pretty please!!!!
Same everything.. Just a guitar.
Dope! What a craftsman!!
This design has definitely got better from a user perspective. Me personally would probably prefer a replaceable nut - you know, just to let people make the action at the nut higher if heeded. And I'm not sure about the bridge and intonation.
Anyway, this thing looks reeeally great!
it wouldn't be hard for the owner (or a luthier) to cut a slot and put a traditional nut on the instrument, if the need ever arises. I almost just did that on this model but I figured I'd stay true to the mission and let the owner make that decision, if it becomes necessary.
What a wonderful world. 🎶♥️
I wonder if a good solution to hiding the tone and volume knobs would be to go with tone/volume wheels similar to a jazzmaster rhythm circuit. they might not stick out as much and you could position them in line with the wood grain. regardless, i think it looks super cool with the knobs
The knobs on top look fine to me. While everything just carved out from one piece looks cool, I think the idea of separate bridge piece is good from maintenance perspective. I it wears or gets cracked you can just make a new one and change it. If you wanted the metal out of the equation, you could just make a slot for the bridge and make the bridge just the right height or possibly use wooden shims under it for adjustment.
that's how v 2 and 3 was. I had to add a shim to the bridge once. I wanted to make this one more user friendly
Cool update! The scoop on the treble end looks to be a great addition, both aesthetically and functionally.
Very unique look with the hidden pickup.. would be curious as to how much of a tonal difference is noticeable vs. the average height where you might normally expect a standard setup with an external/adjustable pickup to be at.
Thanks for sharing another cool build!
Cheers
The pickup is pretty much the same distance from the strings as a traditional bass, maybe just a couple mm further, but within a "normal" range. the wood between the pickup and strings is less than .2.5mm thick
@@timsway Nice! I assume the tonal difference might be more noticeable hiding a pickup internally with a fretted neck where the strings would then be sitting higher away from the body... very cool design. 🙂
I would love to own one of your bases I love active EMG pick up to their my fave.
So cool!!! I know I said it before I really dig that shape.
So far as the knobs. Could you get the pots to mount lower and have the tops of the knobs almost flush? Maybe divots in the face for adjustability.
I can make the knobs a little more flush, but I start to run out of thickness of the instrument pretty soon.
Nice work Tim! I really like both versions but I can also see why you want to keep tweaking the design. As far as those knobs, I might make them a little smaller with more of a round on the edges as well as adding a little knurling texture. Just an idea. 👍👍😉😉🎸🎸
Looks great! Have you considered making a lower profile knob, or have it recessed in and towards the edge with a wider knob so it's more like a dial? Something more akin to function of speed settings on power tools idk
good idea!
Hey Tim. Love your basses. These look really great and I’d love to play one. If it were up to me I’d completely ditch the onboard controls. Once I set my volume and EQ I never touch it and that could easily be done on the amp. I always set all the onboard controls at full.
What wonderful instruments. But I was expecting a "Lack of Comprehension" By Death in these Fretless ehehehe
I love that the pickup is hidden, I've been wondering for a long time if this could work on a guitar.
Only criticism is that I feel the original bridge aesthetic is more harmonious with the rest of the design than the new one. I suppose in the same vein, the string through seems to have changed as well, would like to hear why that was done!
Really liking the concept.
agreed! like an awesome concept car that gets more traditional by the time it gets to market, the bridge and string retaining changes were made for durability, user-friendliness, longevity, etc.
Tim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love u Tim.
Have you ever thought of making a double neck? Would love to see your take on one!
I've made a couple, but weird ones, of course :) ruclips.net/video/ecDX97Gu7oo/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/2XLz5cQAWLA/видео.html
Any chance you'll record some bass grooves with drums. I'd totally listen to that
that might be fun to dust off the closet door drum kit and get one of my buddies to play it...
curious to see one with frets 😁
ruclips.net/video/xoJ8b-RIcE8/видео.html
Awesome 👌 👏 👍
Cool! Have you ever done a neck, where the frets are carved from the wood itself?
I did! (but in corian) ruclips.net/video/xFCxG7-7BYM/видео.html
Headless would also be a cool look!
I almost went headless but I didn't want all that metal on the body, yknow? I'm thinking cello peg tuners :)
@@timsway oh yeah I feel ya.
Only thing with friction tuners is weighing aesthetic vs ease of tuning… tho it wouldn’t be as much of a pain for bass compared to the current wood peg instrument I have, the 7stringed Baglama. With the Baglama it is recommended you detune after every play so that the strings last longer. Idk how common that is among stringed instruments, tho I do know I would be more motivated if retuning wasn’t required every time I wanted to play. At the end I feel this bass is all about aesthetics (playability is great too but it seems like from the video ya that part down) so even IF retuning is required (maybe it’s not?) then it’s just 4 strings and it would be worth the look and feel…
@@0ddb33t3 I have a vid coming out tomorrow with wood tuning pegs. they were the biggest problem on the build!
@@timsway oh heck yeah, I can’t wait!
love it, but personal taste I'd rather a 34" scale w/ 21 positions and both a humbucker and bridge transducer
Hey Tim. Been following you for a long time and you've really been a great role model for me. I was wondering if you have experienced changes in the local area in terms of warpage and if a bit of titanium or truss rods are necessary.
Cheers
Truss rods are a necessity and they have them, but these are 32" scale, 4 strings, so no need for reinforcement rods.
The neck-through block should be offset because the neck is offset.
Like two-thirds/one third... or whatever center is
Just so it's centered on the neck
I centered one of them and one I ran off-center. Center is kinda boring :)
If you painted one pink it would look like the Pokemon Ditto lol
Shared a link to this video with Charles Berthoud... Maybe something will come of it. :)
Sick!!!
SUPRA-COOL!
Make the knobs knots.
I love this bass
Is the g string hitting the fretboard/top behind the bridge?
If so, that should be scooped or cut to avoid the string travel from bridge to body
it's close...
Sick but where is the see through baritone?
it's coming! another couple weeks or so
She looks great, like the hidden pick up. How deep do you cnc the epoxy inlays?
about .05". Cheers!
Very nice. I’ve done something similar to cover a pickup. Since the battery is already there have you thought about a piezo in/under the bridge and an active blend?
I have, but man, I just don't like them :)
@@timsway I get it. I have a couple of electric guitars where they do a decent plugged in acoustic imitation but I haven’t found a bass version I’m completely in love with yet.
Dope!
Using a wood Nut does not affect the sound? I'm converting a fretted in to a fret less (New finger board). I don't want to use the plastic nut.
Everything effects the sound. How much is another story. As a 25+ year vegetarian, I don't use bone (or leather). Corian, brass, aluminum, dense woods, etc. are all viable choices I've used. Heck, I've played a lot of great guitars with plastic nuts that are fine, too. Although I am not a fan of plastic in general.
Do the peaks in line on the fingerboard indicate something akin to fret dots? Would be cool if they do.
yes. Position markers. 3,6,9,12, etc
How do you go about grounding the electronics? In most builds, I see a ground wire going to the bridge, but I don't know if that works here, since the bridge is wood.
this is active so it doesn't need to be to be grounded to the strings, but the trick is to run the ground directly to the string holder, not the bridge.
Tim, really like the look, but how do you think the wooden bridge and nut will stand up over time? With the vibration (no matter how small) of the strings, wouldn't there be a "sawing" action?
violins, double basses and cellos have used them for centuries!
He's also still got the 1.0 bass, and it seems to be doing alright
@@perryborn2777 I freely admit I don't play it all that much, tho. But regardless, I consider it a non issue. If the nut wears out, cut a slot and put a new nut in. If the bridge wears, carve a new bridge. Just like violins, etc... It's just maintenance, really, and similar to most guitars' maintenance that occasionally needs nut replacements and bridge repairs.
Couldn't you do this instrument with frets too? And just kinda have them run up into the bridge almost lol, really love the design of this instrument but I'm not really a fretless kinda guy
Yes, I did make it that way once, as a 5 string and could on commission, but to me the instrument is really about being fretless: ruclips.net/video/xoJ8b-RIcE8/видео.html
Hi tim, curious to hear if these basses have enough low end?, they seem to lack it. Just curious if it is because of a recording issue, a pickup issue (not strong enough) or if it is because of some construction issue :)
dont take this the wrong way :) they sound cool, and whilst not my type of instrument I understand why you chose to use all reclaimed wood.
very cool :)
Kind regards from a fellow builder :)
plenty of low end that probably does not translate through youtube. Plus I was playing through a Phil Jones suitcase amp that's just two 5" speakers.
@@timsway i see :)
I would love to hear it :) proper
@@Oasudude come play it! I'm in Connecticut :)
Could you make them super stealth volume and tone sliders not knobs?
fun idea!
Way too cool.
Are those oscillogram spikes on the fretboard fret marks or are they just a decorative pattern?
position markers, spiking at the 3,5,7,12 etc., positions.
Tim do you have any tips for studying luthiers? I'm starting soon and some tips could be handy haha
practice, make mistakes, learn, set realistic expectations and when you meet them, set new, higher, realistic expectations - but always have a few unrealistic expectations brewing, too, because one day you will all the sudden find them achievable.
@@timsway thank you so much! I'll keep it in mind!
Aí no espique inglês
電池艙很可惜 應該也用木頭蓋子
I sacrificed the "one tree" look on the back for ease of use. The battery was behind the wood cover before, but harder to get at to change.
So am i correct that you don't need to worry about bridge intonation on a fretless?
not as much. You still want the instrument to be fairly accurate, but violins, cellos and double basses have had fixed wood bridges for centuries and people manage to make good music on them! :)
@@timsway Hi Tim, Thanks for your reply, I really enjoy your videos.
I'm asking because I'm interested in building basses myself soon.
Violins and Double Basses etc have floating bridges like Banjos. The intonation can be adjusted up and down the scale as needed. Whereas your bass has a completely fixed bridge which means the intonation can't be changed. I was really curious about this, and figured that maybe that just doesn't matter on a fretless since the "fretting" positions aren't fixed.
Don't get me wrong, Im not interrogating your methods or trying to pick a fault. I just really want to learn as much as I can about the craft.
So, if you were to make a fretted version, would you need to have some way of making the bridge adjustable laterally, not just vertically?
The bass is beautiful regardless.
Thanks again for your reply. Keep up the great work!
P.S, your "I'm the one the neighbours think is crazy" song is like one of my favourite songs ever!
@@ToolsAreToys You can "carve" a little bit of intonation into the bridge or you can do this, which is an option for this bass design: ruclips.net/video/SHuuJEqGWM0/видео.html.
In reality if I were to make one of these fretted I could do the fretwire "Hofner" style bridge but with frets the whole point and spirit of this instrument is lost, so I would probably just use a more traditional metal bridge.
A wooden bridge?! Have you tried metal bridges? They don't sound too good!
Nice 👌
Like deployed 👍
😎🎙🎸✅
Tim, is there a place to hide your 🥦?
It just looks like a $300 wishbass