EP11 - Mini Lathe Upgrade - Full Demo of Upgraded Mini Lathe - Brushless Motor Conversion How To
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Everything is complete! So in this episode I will be giving an operational demonstration of the upgraded mini-lathe and detailed tour of the software including configuration. The software is packed full of features, including automatic RPM compensation, so this episode is definitely worth a watch.
This is episode 11, and the last episode, in a series of videos where I am endeavoring to upgrade my mini lathe.
--=== LIST OF PARTS USED ===--
Motor [ No Brand, BDUAV 6364-200KV ]
BESC* [ No Brand, 200A 200AMP 2-7S Brushless ESC Control OPTO NO BEC for RC Airplane ]
Power Supply (24V) [ No Brand, 24V 1500W PSU. Search JOOLONPOR on AliExpress and sort by most sold ]
Buck Converter (5V) [ No Brand, Adjustable DC Step Down Converter, Input 4.5V to 28V, Output 0.4V to 20V, MAX 3A ]
Temp Sensor [ Dallas DS18B20 ]
Chuck Speed Sensor [ Not Sure, Likely equivalent is Keyestudio Line Tracking Sensor module white/black line detector for Arduino ]
Motor Speed Sensor [ Recycled Inkjet Printer Part - probably a Opto Interrupter MOC7811 ]
Microcontroller Board [ STM32 Bluepill STM32F103C8T6 64GB (Actually 128GB usable for most if not all) ]
Display [ 2.4 inch TFT LCD Touch Screen Shield for Module Display Board ]
Controller Connector [ D-SUB15 Male/Female ]
Motor Connector [ XT60 Male/Female ]
I highly recommend not using this BESC, but there should be something out there of similar specification, unfortunately I have not done any research so I cannot make a good recommendation for an alternate at this time. 
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Thats a seriously deep cut!
Wow, nice display options and possible settings. Not knowing much at all about programming puts me off doing this sort of Mod.
Never too late to learn if you have an interest.
This awesome man. thank you making theses videos. I learned a lot and am now a dedicated subscriber. I am going to watch every video and wait for more.
Hi old mate, I like your home made controller. It's got good useful information there while working. And that is the biggest model Motor I ever seen. I suppose it's a lot more Balls than the standard motor hay. Great upgrade anyhow
G'day! Actually the original motor was so bad its probably not fair to compare. The new motor does seem to power through heavy cuts pretty good now, so I thinks it's pretty good. I was thinking the new motor would be more powerful than it actually was, but in the end it seems just right, anything more powerful would not doubt end up breaking this lathe. Saw you have a couple of off road bike videos, I will probably do a couple of off road bike videos too of some mountains here in Japan. Thanks for the comment ;-)
watched the whole series and thumbs up all the way...very well put together videos covering nearly all of the build. Man you were really MEAN to that poor little lathe during testing, but she held up well, all things considered. I've been on the fence about getting a mini lathe for a while....you've just solved one of the major drawbacks holding me off! AND left a trail of breadcrumbs for newbies!
The only constructive criticism I can offer would be:
don't be afraid to show the failures (failing spectacularly leads to the spectacular knowledge as one of my former Professors used to say...).
Where's the coding and CAD vids?
Most importantly, DON'T STOP POSTING RAD CONTENT! I like the way you explain things and the editing choices were clean. SOLID I'm SUB'D
Oh...Yay! One of the very few commenters :-) Thanks soo much!!
Seriously, I am glad to see that the series was at least watchable for a few people, so that boosts the confidence and motivation a little. RUclips is not being to kind to me on this series, but thankfully some people seek this type of content so least a couple of people checked it out.
Thankfully being a little older and wiser I am pretty good at avoiding spectacular failures, but trust me I have had my fair share of those when I was younger and a nice box full of half-finished projects to prove it. But your professor was a wise man and he speaks the truth, each of those "failures" are in fact "lessons" and "practice" that make it more likely that the next project can be more interesting and more successful. I will definitely include try to include whatever mistakes I make along the way, and if I get seriously adventurous then maybe a spectacular failure is on the cards too.
As for other content..
I personally find other people’s CAD videos not that interesting, and given I just recently started with 3D CAD I am pretty sure it would be less interesting.. this is why I just included the time-lapse to at least provide some idea how I do it. I guess if there was allot of specific interest I might rethink that.
I am definitely thinking to do some code related videos using this projects code as a base. I am thinking to talk about how I approach coding a project like this, how the code is overall structured and then look at some details of each area such as timers, menu structure etc..
Let’s see what I post next….. (Thanks again for the helpful comments)
@themadninjamike took the words right out of my mouth! +1
So when do the kits become available? lol. Machining and printing parts, no problem, designing or soldering electronics, not so much, coding...ehhhh.. maybe, played around with trying to learn python a few times but never quite finished any of the books or online courses, but I didn't any real need or application in mind, just curiosity. Very cool design on your part. If you were to add a DRO to your cross feed you could possibly link it to your control and automatically adjust the RPM on face cuts as the diameter gets smaller similar to CNC lathes.
I hoped to make a statement with this series, really letting people know what amazing possibilities are out there waiting for them.
There are plenty of videos out there introducing similar tech, playing around with experimental projects, and such videos are of course important.
But I hope at least some people might watch my video and say, “hey, I could do something practical like that”, and then go out there and try to give it a go.
As for learning code, reading books or taking a class is going to take you 15% of the way.
As with learning most things, including a spoken language, unless you go out there and practically do it, you will never learn it. Set yourself a goal or a situation where you need to learn it. Even if the goal is a made up one, it does not matter, just be as persistent as you can.
Often I set my goals too high, and have my own pile of half-finished projects to prove that. But even by getting half of the way, I had already learnt allot.
It does not matter how messy your use of a language is at first, who cares, as long as you get the necessary result, then that is good enough. The more you use a language the more fluent and concise you will become
I am intending to do some coding related videos, letting people know about the various things I learnt doing this project. I am sure this will be useful as a copy paste for some, but hopefully it will help some with their approach to similar problems
BTW: I had the same idea for the DRO on the cross slide, but I also am thinking about CNC as well, so I will let that one sleep for a little while.
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Enjoyed you video, sure would like to buy that controller
Glad to hear that, thanks! Since it's just me messing around in my workshop, you probably won't see this controller coming to market any time soon... But as the reception has been pretty good to this series overall, and I also have learnt allot from doing it, I am now thinking about making an even better one, so possibly better to wait for that one ;-)
amazing waw
Brilliant
Thanks! 🙏
Works great ! Has more power than I thought it would !
I was working on a similar thing ( way less capable than your unit ) but got sidetracked with other projects - mainly based around Peltier dehumidifiers to stop my machine rusting due to condensation and to keep the humidity level in my printer filament dry box as low as possible ( still working on this ) . Mine used a tuft touch screen but one problem was to increase or decrease the motor speed I had to touch an up or down arrow and to get this to work at a sensible speed required the use of a delay which isn’t really good when it uses interrupts to read the pulses of the spindle encoder to measure rpm . I think using a rotary encoder for speed adjustment would get rid of the tft screen and the delay and make my unit more user friendly .
I also have a Taig mini lathe that I think the motor and esc would be ideal for , much lighter and more compact than the mains voltage DC brushed motor I have on it now .
I also have a mini lathe fitted with a 3ph motor run off an inverter VFD , it has a two speed belt drive conversion , the tumbler gears lever has been moved to the top of the headstock and a pile of other mods - i have to be careful as it has too much grunt and it is easy to push things too hard and break something !
Thanks for the series , very well explained and filmed - You did a fantastic job on all of it !
P.S if you want to improve your finish when machining try some WD40 as cutting fluid on Aluminium and steel . Sometimes it can be the metal itself that just gives a crap finish - black steel pipe is one and some types of aluminium are a real pain to get a decent finish on .
Hey, thanks for the comment and congratulations for being about one of ten people who have really been following this series from the start. The main reason I did not bother with the touch sensor in this display is simply because I thought the screen was too small for that. I think that when making changes you really need to see the display.. not your hand.. Maybe if the display was bigger I might have gone with touch. I think a knob to control the speed is a must, and actually I would prefer a rotary encoded control, but the pot actually was a cheap and relatively easy solution to implement (except for the noisy ADC result). I think the power I got was pretty good too, actually I am worried the plastic headstock gears might explode (which is why I ordered the metal ones) BTW: I found most of the recent mini-lathes are geared a little lower at the main pulley. That would likely bump up the low end torque but drop the top end speed a little (probably leave mine as is). Thanks for the compliments, and for the tip on the WD40 with aluminum, I will be sure to try it out!
Maybe the pot would be better than an encoder - at least you don’t have to spin it to far to change the speed from 0 to full .
@@ianbertenshaw4350 True, having quick access to the extents is probably nicer than a free spinning knob. But I am thinking maybe a larger knob could make fine adjustments easier, but it's not so bad as it is in any case.
@@ianbertenshaw4350 the pot on my original controller had quite some wear around the 0 mark, to the point where the machine would randomly decide that it wasn't at 0 anymore and stay spinning. Encoder sounds like a great for to me!
Congratulations on your modification for your motor control for your lathe.
You have put great effort to do this 👍👍
Your channel subscriptions should grow with this content, it just takes time :)
UK
I am told getting comments are important to the RUclips algorithm, so people like you are the ones helping the channel grow. So thanks so much for the comment and support 😊
@@ForOurGood
Yeah comments should help your channel grow.
Not replying to comments usually has a negative effect.
You'll probably find a lot people will watch your videos, but not comment or give a thumb's up.
The more videos you post, the greater chance of growing you channel.
I subscribed because, I have an interest in model engineering using a lathe and mill to make parts.
All started with flying RC scale helicopters ten years ago.
I've modified my lathe (not quite a basic mini lathe) with an electronic lead screw controller based around the Arduino platform, still in progress.
Good luck
Adam
@@adaml52 I also started doing RC with engine helicopters about 20 years ago, although it's been a few years since I have flown last. I have seen a few of those electric leads screw mods, they seem pretty cool. Good luck with that!
nice UI and controller, but would using sensored ESC make it automatic compensation to maintain speed automatic?
The answer is yes and no. There are some specialised sensored ESC's that can maintain the RPM if configured that way, but the everyday hobby type of ESC do not. Actually, once a ESC is up and spinning, the behaviour and performance of sensored & unsensored ESC is the same. But the sensored ESC is superior at stopped and slow speeds, where it can always maintain accurate control of the motor phases. For unsensored ESC, once there is no motion, the ESC can no longer know which motor phases to energize, so instead of falls back on strategies to get the motor moving, so it can get positional feedback and power the phases accurately again (this is why you can jumpy or stalled starts under load). Actually I am planning t make my own sensored ESC soon enough, but for now the setup I have works pretty good. Also, I have some good videos on how unsensored ESC works, check them out if it interests you. Thanks for the question 🙂
Excellent work! Do you have a link to the source code for this project? I am planning to build one of these and it would be of great assistance. Thank you!
Hi there! Thanks for your question :-) At this time I have not released the source code, I may do at some point, but not for now. I will be doing a series in the coming months breaking down and providing tutorials for the bulk of the code, it seems there is some good interest out there for that. I think my idea for this series is to motivate people and help them learn for themselves, not really provide kit solutions or anything like that. As things progress it might lead to the release of the source code, but I just don't know right now. Thanks again for the comment and question.
Ditto! 😁
Great series. Looking forward to your next project; be that electronic leadscrew, stm32 programming or otherwise. Thanks
Thanks for talking the time to watch the whole series and the comments along the way! I am currently doing some interesting things with the ESC so there likely will be a video on that topic soon enough. I also am working on replacing the gear changing gears in the headstock with metal ones, this ended up being a bit of a drama. I also am getting rid of than button type aluminum quick release tool post (garbage!) and am going to try the steel quick release tool post with the side gibs, hopefully this will increase the tool rigidity a bit.. Worst case I might dump the quick release... So some update video likely for that. Soon after I am thinking to do some STM32 programming vids. Hopefully they will be worth a watch!
So I know you are using a 1500W power supply, but it looks like all you are using is 15A worth of current. Do you think you need such a big power supply or do you think you can get away with a 30A PSU? Also what is the power supply model #?
The peak power I have seen used so far was a bit over 500watts, so 1000watt should be enough. I would have preferred the PSU be just a little bit smaller, so if the 1000watt one is smaller (have not checked), then in hindsight I would have got the 1000watt one. If the size was the same, then I would still go with 15000watt as the price was only 60usd and prefer to keep the capacity. Search JOOLONPOR on AliExpress and sort by most sold, you will see a number of sellers selling this PSU series.
@@ForOurGood Thank you for that. Just checked and they are pretty much the same size. Theres maybe a 5mm difference on all sides but I would call that "close enough"
@@Overclocked2300 Actually mine hangs out on the right side and front by about 5mm, so even though it seems small it might have been better that way.
Great project and video series, thanks for making this! You may want to think about adding a nice big e-stop as a safety feature. Have you considered doing a CNC mod on this as well? Anyway, new subscriber here :-)
Hey thanks for the comment and subscription! Hitting the big yellow button does kill the mains power to the system. If the lathe is not spinning it does take a few seconds to discharge the PSU capacitors before the controller shuts off. If the lathe is spinning and the mains power is switched off, the software has the ability to quickly detect the dropping DC voltage which will force the lathe to emergency stop, with the brake being applied for as long as there is enough volts to keep the ESC alive. I guess there probably could be a better way, did you have an idea for how the e-stop could be done?
At the moment I have been thinking about doing a motorized variable speed lead screw, CNC is also something I would ultimately like to do, but it might take a little while to work up to that.
@@ForOurGood ah of course, some how I missed that lol. Out of interest if the lathe is spinning and you kill the power is there any motor breaking force? Sorry if that's an obvious question I (clearly) don't know much about this sort of stuff but find it very interesting
Oh no, actually it is a good question. Even though I did test the low voltage auto stop mechanism, I never have done a purposeful test to see how well this works for emergency stop. I did do a running emergency stop maybe once, but I never properly paid much attention to how quick it stopped or how long the braking force could be maintained (a bit stupid really). So now you have mentioned it, I will go do that test and see how it goes. I am assuming the braking force will come on hard, and then peter out as the voltage drops very low or the ESC stops working. I will let you know how it goes, and thanks!
@@ForOurGood I'll look forward to that (and your future content), thanks!
I have uploaded a short video to demonstrate the performance of the E-Stop as it is currently implemented.
Thanks again for the question!
Would you be able to share the code for the stm32 mcu ? I would like to see how the display works. Thanks 😀
Thanks for the question! I am not thinking to give out the source code at this time. Actually I am waiting to see how this series does overall, what sort of questions are forthcoming (like this one), and then decide the next steps. Be it a detailed “how-to” for making software like this, or just putting the source code out there, or something else. For the display I am pretty much just using the standard Adafruit Graphics module, but really only some basic calls to draw text and simple lines & boxes. I did create my own font set (and font designer) to make it all look a bit tidier. Most of what you are seeing otherwise is basically behavior based on my programming (using Arduino IDE). I am not sure how helpful that is, but if you have a more specific query I would be happy to help if I can.
@@ForOurGood Thanks for the extensive answer! I am in the process of learning about this displays, so I am just absorbing information and looking at how different people do it.
@@LordEvilSeph Your welcome. Try out the display and if you end up with a specific question then let me know. I did find that even though the stm32 bluepilll is much quicker than an Uno, the display writes are still pretty slow if you update allot of the screen. Possibly the Adafeuit graphics is a bit heavy, and a more concise implementation could be better. For me, I simply solved the problem by only updating the screen where and where changes happen.. makes the your code a little more complex, but is a solution I often use in such cases.
Hi. Can you upload the code? Thanx
Thanks for your question, I got this one a couple of times ;-)
At this time I have no firm plan to release the full code listing for this mini-lathe controller, I may do so at some point, but I just don't know. Sorry!
@@ForOurGood Ok thanx. So if u can, do a video on arduino list, doint the rpm control part. Thanx Sorry for my english.
@@ForOurGood And Happy new Year!!!!
@@eliasrivallo Your English is fine. There are 4 main parts for controlling the speed that I do. (1) Measuring the RPM (2) Sending the PWM control signal, and (3) Mapping PWM to RPM, and finally (4) Automatically maintaining RPM under load. Are any of these of particular interest? Also, what type of Arduino MCU do you use?
@@eliasrivallo Happy New Year to you too! 🎆🐕
11:05 The result is horrible. Is like eaten out with a less sharp tool or a very cheap not good worked up machine.
Your support is tilting. Maybe check that before you hurt yourself.
16:52 I was afraid that the tool holder break off ... Oo
Hi there! This video is all about the controller and motor I added to the mini-lathe, going through the functions and performance of this upgrade. There is a clear disclaimer that the machining work is bad right at the start of the demonstration, and I also discuss the tool support problem.. possibly you skipped over that bit. I very much appreciate your concern for my health, I will sure to be careful. Thanks again for the helpful comment, all feedback and opinion is welcome, as it helps to grow the channel!
@@ForOurGood I just left a comment on your video for the motor install video. I've been machining aas a hobby and for a small amount of work for 10 years and I'm almost finished a mechatronic engineering degree so appreciate the work you've put into that control system, it's a really good effort! I do however have something to add to the above comment, more a few pointers to help you on your way. For aluminium use sharp high speed steel tooling, not carbide and you'll have a lot more fun. Carbide tends to tear ally more than cut. Use a tail stock and dead or preferably live centre when you can and you don't risk getting a lump of aluminium launched at your head haha. Also, I don't think you have changed your spindle bearings from the ball bearings to tapered roller bearings. The factory ball bearings in these things have no axial support so they need changing. It is most likely the cause of the vibration and resonance you are getting and it's around a $30 upgrade which changes the whole machine. You will get a much better finish at low RPM if you change them. You can actually do quite a bit with these mini lathes once you get a few things sorted. I also think you need to have a look at your top slide jib. I doubt there is anything wrong with your tool post, Its a lump of metal. That extreme deflection you're getting is probably just because your jibs are loose as buggery. Lapping them and the cross slide jibs is a good idea and only takes a couple of hours and a few bucks in sand paper.
Here is an old but great resource on these machines if you're interested:
www.mini-lathe.com/Links.htm
And finally, machining takes a while to learn but you've done a really good job of this project, keep it up! Machining is awesome!
@@edmunns8825 I think I stated in this video somewhere, I really was not trying to demonstrate good machining methods. Really I just chucked some stuff in the chuck and did some random cuts.. A little lazy I know, but it was a super long project, and I was a bit over it at that point. The QRTP used in this demo was actually something I was using for the first time, so was the insert tools. I am usually using HSS tools that I grind to shape myself, including complex specialized boring geometries.
I had heard that those inserts suck for aluminum, but I still wanted to give it a go and see for myself, and it was not unusable, but finish is not as good as HSS.
That QRTP I was using was actually total garbage, and responsible for most of the movement you see in the demo.
With the original tool post back in place, and the jibs tightened up, it is pretty rigid. The vibration turned out to be a fairly deformed plastic gear in the headstock, the bearing seem not that terrible, so I will probably leave them as be for a while. Anyway, machining is a life long work in progress, so I am sure I will continue to improve things over time.
Go and check out the first short video in this series if you like, I have some photos of some work I have done in the past. I think you will see I am not totally green to machining, though admittedly a little rusty in recent times, but my love for machining remains the same ;-)
@@ForOurGood Ahh, I have the same type of thing. I'll check yours out now. This was before I went to uni in 2014, I'm on the back there.
ruclips.net/video/Sv_P4FBLvZU/видео.html
I built that fucker haha. My dad and I designed it. I'm a bit proud of it (as you can probably tell haha).
These days I'm more into embedded software but I still love the mechanical side. Engineering is just one of those fields where you never stop learning.
@@edmunns8825 Looks pretty impressive, and you seem pretty young too! Always good to see a young bloke using his head and his hands to achieve amazing things. I am sure you will go far. I grew up in Southern tableanda of rural NSW, so the scenery looks nicely familiar (if I am not wrong), sadly it has been many years since I have been back ro Oz, Maybe one day!
what I have learned from this is do not for the love of god buy cheap qctp's
Let's hope everyone gets that message! Thanks for the comment.
@@ForOurGood No worries, the auto speed is really nice works a treat
@@nauroticdax Actually I was a bit worried about that, thankfully it turned out to be a pretty nice feature.