Thank you very much for your direct and informative presentation! Not only did you provide me with a solution to my situation but you “loaded me for bear” with alternatives in a variety of times! I appreciate you!
Thank you. I am so happy I have found your videos about painting on fabric furniture. From that video and after I subscribed, RUclips keeps showing more of your videos. You are amazing.
Thank you so much for sharing this I’m redoing a small pie safe that was my mother’s I’ve got it painted exactly the way that I want it to look but I’ve been stumped as to what I can use to seal it . Now I know what I need to do thanks to you . I’m a new subscriber now ! 🙂
Thanks for this review of the various products w/o feeling like I was being "sold" a particular product! I am looking to seal a reasonably large, great, solid and study thrift store bookshelf ($13!) that has a nice-looking crackled finish that I think is chalk paint without a sealer. I say the latter as a powdery substance comes off on our hands or towel when dusting...or moving it! So, since I not sure what the previous owner put on it, but would like to keep their finish, what would be a safe sealer for a questionable finish...and one that will yellow would be nice. THANK YOU in advance for your answer
I was redoing a shabby chic table I put vaseline where I didn't want the paint to stick, my sister was omg your so talented, till I told her I learned it on fb. 🤣😂
I just tried a small section with my auto wax. Super Hard Shell Turtle Wax. Looks like it will also work. Is there a wax that will finish with a antique look? Thanks.
Thank you so much for going over these. I am trying to save a little money while I learn this process. I am thinking about exploring painting on fabric. I'm starting with an ottoman using maybe the Rustoleum chalked paint watered down. Which sealer would you recommend? I would love to hear back any comments from you or the readers. Thank you for your knowledge.
Thank you for watching and commenting! I would use Tulip Spray dye for that. Chalk paint will be more expensive than fabric dye and chalk paint has to be sealed not once, but as ongoing maintenance just like on furniture. I personally would not want wax on my furniture and out the things used to seal chalk paint on fabric, wax is the only practical thing. The wax is heat sensitive (can't use it outside), picks up dirt easily and holds on to dust. I get fingerprints on chalk paint all the time and it is a hard surface to clean compared to other surfaces. I would use fabric dye and it is sealed, permanent and washable. Fabric dye is also much less stiff than chalk paint. Here is a video I did about Tulip Fabric Dye: ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=88rm5z4eRgU
Wow I totally missed this question! I'm sure you figured it out by now but I would actually use a satin finish paint and skip the sealers on furniture.
2 Questions please? 1.- I want to chalk paint, antique & seal 6 dining chairs & farm table skirt & legs. Since I now know I want to use a "poly" to seal, (polycrylic as I don't want tinting later), what product should I use to "antique" prior to sealing? 2.- I want to sand the top and re stain to a different color then seal with something DURABLE & SATIN, (then Danish oil?). Are there any special considerations for stains before sealing? (water/oil based, etc.) THANKS in advance!
I think I understand this. You definitely don't need danish oil on top of polycrylic. I'm not even sure it would act right since it is made to go on wood that absorbs it. As far as what to use for anitquing, I have used several products and I would recommend a water based antiquing stain so you can wipe off what you don't want easier. What technique you use to apply it well help determine how heavy it goes on. There are videos on this, unfortunately I have not made one yet. I usually do something like wipe on product with cloth, wipe off what I don't like immediately. I alwasys suggest a test board if you don't know what products will do. You can figure out how your products work before trying on your furniture because you can only try so much before you have to re-paint your furniture. As far as applying the anitique finish, I have used a rag, a paint brush and a foam brush. I have removed excess with dry or wet rags. A "dry brush" technique works well for some looks. Maybe I will do a video on this soon..... Also, the polycrylic is water based, another reason to use water based antiquing product. Oil based usually has some shine and chalk paint does not have a shine so it looks out of place unless you put a gloss finish on chalk paint, which rarely if ever happens.
I just finished chalk painting a laminate wood dresser. Chalk paint looks good but I tried brushing polycrylic on one drawer and it went on ok in some parts but then ended up kind of gummy or tacky at the ends. I might have just over worked it since it dries so fast. Now I am terrified to do the rest and mess it up. There is no real starting over on laminate. would you recommend watering down the poly before applying? or using a sponge applicator brush instead of a paint brush? I am a newbie to chalk painting furniture.
I am sorry I somehow didn't see this until now and sure you have figured it out but here is my answer. Yes you can add water to Polycrylic. I also recommend washing your brush out a little every 5 minutes. You definitely need to brush the Polycrylic as little as possible. Once you leave it for a couple minutes, you can't come back over it. If there is a mistake at that point, best to let it dry and sand with 400-600 grit sandpaper. You also cannot wet sand Polycrylic like Polyurethane. If it is tacky on the ends, let it dry before doing anything.
Excellent! Can you tell me if this is a good protection for outdoor items? I am thinking about a couple of urns I have that have been chalk painted. thank you!
Since this video was made back in 2018 and here in 2023 you’ve been able to experiment on various surfaces I am Curious if these sealing hacks apply to fabric, leather or vinyl or all 3 ? Thank you for any input.
Great video...I’m painting a bathroom vanity with chalk paint, and I’ve already purchased the Minwax Polycrylic in Semi gloss...is that going to be an ok choice since it’s a high moisture and humidity bathroom?? Thank you!!!!!
THANK YOU! Answered a lot of questions for me--I want to use tinted wax to warm/age my wooden signs but am concerned about wax coming off to touch or on wall etc--would a light tinted stain over paint do the same? Then seal? Is there a rule as to matching type of seal to paint used(acrylic paint-polycrylic seal) or bo? THANKS for sharing your expertise?
As long as there is no sealer on your paint yet, I would recommend light tinted stain and then use a satin finish brush on polyurethane (satin finish is low glare). Spray poly can be difficult to get a totally smooth appearance on something like a sign with high visual use so I would not use it in this case. Brush on, oil based polyurethane is long lasting and is a "wipe clean" surface. Tinted wax is great and durable but in high temperatures, but it is still wax. It's not going to drip off or anything, but I can tell you polyurethane won't budge. Wax is also something that requires maintenance, as in more wax down the road. If your sign is outdoors, I would never use wax. If you used latex or water based paint, you can use water or oil based sealer. If you used oil based paint, you can only use and oil based sealer, which is polyurethane. As for the stain color, hopefully you have some of the paint used to test how your stain will look before you put it on. If you do, get wood scrap and paint it and then test the stain look. If not, hopefully the back of the sign is painted and you can test it there. If you can't test, just go slow and light and it will be fine. The safest way to get the look you want is to dilute your stain. If it is oil based stain, dilute it with mineral spirits. It is a lot easier to add more stain if it is too light and harder make it lighter again. This would be my personal favorite option: You can also age your paint with more paint (oil for oil, latex for latex), but assuming you used latex paint on your signs, this is what I would do. Get a little 2 oz bottle or so of craft paint for a couple dollars, mix 1/2 water to 1/2 paint (for latex) and you basically have a "wash". You can brush or wipe on and wipe off until you get the look you like. Polyurethane seals it all in and there you go. Tough and cool signs!
Great video. I used the Rust-oleum Vhalkboard paint on a wall in my home for my kiddos. What is the best option as a sealer do you suggest. Please and thanky you for your help and time!!!
Miss Fix This I think the chalkboard paint is porous so you can’t use chalk markers on it but only chalk, I’m trying to seal mine so I can use chalk markers. Which one will work??
This was so helpful, one question tho, why would my fingernail been able to chip the finish on my chalk painted vanity 48 hours after sealing with poly acrylic?
Question? I sanded a dining room table and tinted it with wood tint. I used polyurethane matte to seal it. I don’t like the glossy look also I put 3 coats. Is this going to be ok for heavy traffic?
It should be if you have a good coating of poly on it. You could get some 400 grit sandpaper made for wet sanding and spray it with water and lightly sand it. It will take some of the shine away without hurting the sealing properties of the poly.
I would go with either polycrylic or polyurethane. Polycrylic is much easier to work with and has water clean up. Polyurethane is better but not in my opinion easy to work with, especially on dark colors. I vote brush on polycrylic.
I've been refinishing my kitchen table and chairs with a white chalk paint. We first sealed it with clear wax but then whenever I would wipe food off the chairs, the paint would show up on my wash cloth. We then sanded the wax off and tried a water based polyurethane which mostly works but if we apply it too thick it really yellows bad. It looks like someone peed all over the wood! What would you recommend to seal the paint so that it won't come off when wiped but also so that it doesn't yellow?
It looks like I am a bit late to comment here but I will just in case you haven't tried anything else. I have been using a lot of polycyclic lately and I don't like it. It is an issue with black paint too except heavy places show up as white. White paint is also the most difficult to hide anything. I would use polyurethane on a dining table, but just like the polycyclic, if you put it on too heavy it will show. I would use the spray polyurethane in VERY light coats on the table legs, sides and chairs. Several light coats is much better than one solid coat. I would use the brush polyurethane to paint the table top. I like the polyurethane because it the most durable of the chalk paint sealers. I would never suggest wax for a dining table top because it just won't hold up. You will have to re-paint the table and chairs to put a new finish on it. If you can stand to go darker on the color, any of the finishes will show much less.
My question is why does the water based polycrylic seem to lift my chalk paint instead of seal. I used Waverly ink chalk paint on my dresser. I waited a few days and applied the oolycrylic. It removed my paint . It was literally changing the color of the polycrylic. So then I add color to the polycrylic . What did I do wrong?
My first guess it that the chalk paint didn't adhere well to the surface. I always scuff sand everything. Even the best chalk paint in my opinion has difficulty adhering to very shiny or waxed surfaces. I know the scuff sanding kind of cancels out some of the reasons to use chalk paint, but I like the look of the chalk paint. Second, if you put the the Polycrylic on too light and drag the brush through it too much, that could also be the problem. I would place my bet on the chalk paint.
I have never done it but I don't see why not. It is a sealer. I would test it on a small area and see how it does. Rough it up a bit, set a cup of coffee on it for a while, etc. If it works well, I would give it a try!
Thank you so much for your reply. I will try on a sample as you said. It is just the cabinet doors and the draws, so nothing will be on it. The top is plain wood already sealed. But it will be good to see how the mod podge looks like on the sample. Thank you! 😊
Can you combine more than 1 typle of finish by layering it? Such as wax and Polyurethane? Im thinking if adding a slightly brown wax on white chalk paint but seal it with something more durable and clear.
Great video. I just finished a large very heavy 10 ft dining table. I cannot carry it outside. Which do you recommend for doing indoors? I have small kids. I’m worried if the fumes will linger and be harmful. I have used polyurethane oil based but it was for a chair I was able to carry outside. Thanks in advance
Miss Fix This thanks going to try that when I get a chance. I ended up sealing mine w two coats of wax. Then last week someone sprayed suntan spray and some drops of it (it was too hot) landed on the table and actually lifted the wax and paint ☹️should sealed it sooner lol Thanks for the tips
Yes Polycrylic will work but I would put a three coats on the top if you are brushing it on and 5 or six light spray coats if you are using a spray can.
these sealants, specifically the baby oil, do you mix it with the chalk paint? Or does it go as a layer on top of the chalk paint once it has dried? Thanks
I put 3 coats of white chalk paint on my kitchen table legs and aprons, and 3 coats of Charcoal chalk paint on the table top. After that fully dried I put 1 coat of water-based Minwax Satin Polycrylic on (all with an HVLP sprayer). The Charcoal top looked fine, but the white all yellowed in splotches all over almost immediately! It looks like the pieces were in a 2 pack-a-day smokers house for 20 years! Now I have sand an refinish all of the legs and aprons, but I'm worried about it, obviously. What gives?!?!
It sounds like One of two things. It was sprayed on too heavy on the legs, but I have not seen this with polycrylic but I have seen it with polyurethane. I think More than likeLy the tannins in the wood came through the paint when the water based sealer hit it. Since chalk paint can go over polycrylic, I would not sand it because the same thing can happen again. Just lightly scuff sand before painting. If it is the tannins, the first polycrylic sealed it and it won’t happen next time.
I have tried using the brush on polycrilic and ended up with a huge amount of bubbles. I have used brush on polyurethane for years with no problem and used the same brush and technique. Any thoughts?
I'm sure you have completed this project by now. I am finding missed questions on my channel. I have been using polycyclic a lot lately and had a lot of problems. It's just not easy to work with in my opinion. Very bubbly, very easy to use too much and have white spots on dark paint or dark spots on light paint. If you shook it before using it, this makes a lot of bubbles. Stirring too vigorously before using it can also make bubbles. Moisture on my brush causes bubbles. I'm not really a fan of the polycyclic anymore. Also in my opinion, the brushes I use for Polyurethane are made for oil paint or stain. Polycrylic is water based and works much better for me with a high quality latex brush.
I have a question I use the chalk paint and I also put wax on top of the chalk paint but I’m not very happy with the outcome do you know if I could put the lacquer on top of the wax or do I have to take the wax off thank you
People say they go right over the wax with another finish. I would recommend trying to remove as much of the was as possible with a warm, wet rag. If it starts to take paint of, and it usually does, just don't worry about it. Just try to get excess wax off if you can.
Plz help so I used folk art chalk paint from michaels to paint my full sz oak sleigh bed. Two 8 ounce bottles were enough and I got them for $4 each with coupons! But I don't like the color and I'm not sure how to seal it (im new to painting). The color is Maui sand which is a charcoal, it reminds me of cement. So my question is do you recommend sealing it? I've seen a lot of posts sayin you don't have to. And I wanted to know what would happen if I used my rustoleum decorative glaze in Java Brown over it. It says it's semi transparent. I don't knw if its water or oil based. I know itll slightly tint my bed and I guess I'm ok with that since I don't like the color anyway. Would it be a drastic change in color ? Will the glaze give it some protection so i don't need to seal It? Should i just buy a topcoat? Thanks in advance! When I ask homedepot and michaels workers they all say completely diff things and I can tell they have no knowledge of Chalk paint. It freaks me out that they recommend certain things not knowing it can ruin a project.
A Ali you want to put some type of sealer on before glazing chalk paint. Chalk paint is porous and will grab antiquing glaze. If you don’t like the color, you can paint over it with a different color then topcoat. I like polycrylic. You can then glaze any details you want (wipe off excess) and top coat again. You will have a nice durable finish then.
Can you use baby oil gel? I don't have an outside space which would be better I'm sure do these products have an odor. Can I use any of them in the house? Thank you!
I assume you mean polyurethane? Yes it is good for both just read the label and make sure it says it can be used outdoors. This is one of the best options and my favorite for outdoor use.
I have not done it but I have seen others do it and it worked fine. I know they recommend putting clear wax on before the dark wax because it goes on too dark otherwise. The paint is porus and will soak up whatever you put on it. If it were me, I would paint a scrap piece of wood with the chalk paint and try the dark wax to see if I liked how it looked and skip the clear wax if possible. Please let us know how it turns out!
@@NashvilleRestoration thank you! It will be a couple wks probably before I get asserting to finishing it but I'll let you know how it worked out. Have a great wk!
im late to the chalk game. Lost a few loved ones and throwing out my fancy expensive crap and living like them in the depression making it a challenge to up cycle everything. Chalk painted end table then acrylic latex protectant on one and don't really care for it. I have used danish oil on a live piece of wood cut from the family tree (a real tree) and loved it. I also used the danish on a old home interior shelf I chalk painted over and it was a disaster. maybe cuz i didn't strip.? Did clean and sand tho. All info overload. Do you have to strip sand furniture before chalk painting? and what finish goes next? Can you sand treated wood and use Danish oil over chalk paint regardless of whats under the chalk paint? Each project I feel like Im failing. HELP....anyone Im even new to this and so confused by so many different answers....thsi one seemed to be the least amount of anxiety. Hope i can find my way back here to find a answer. lol
what works best for white chalk paint on kitchen cabinets? My cabinets prior were already painted dark grey I used Rustoleum Linen White and having hard time figuring out what is my best option without getting this "yellowing" everyone says will happen never used white before?
I would use brush on satin finish polyurethane. Polyurethane is the longest lasting and durable sealer and it is oil based like your paint is. You can’t use water based polycrylic over oil based paint for the same reason you can’t paint latex over oil based paint. If this is an outdoor sign, make sure the wood is pressure treated for outdoor use otherwise no sealer will keep the wood from expanding, degrading and swelling. For signs, a lot of shine can make it hard to read because of glare so I would use a satin finish and avoid gloss or semi gloss. Brush on poly gives a thicker finish and avoids dealing with the pools spray can leave, which can be wet sanded but still I never use spray poly on a wood finish because of this, I only use it on painted surfaces.
@@thewhitner1 I would use an outdoor polyurethane like Minwax Spar satin polyurethane.. You will get a long lasting finish. I think baby oil would deteriorate very quickly outdoors. www.amazon.com/Minwax-33255000-Helmsman-Urethane-Aerosol/dp/B0009XCLIC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Outdoor+polyurethane&qid=1603066158&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQVVMwSDhMSFE4WEUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNjE5NTMzMzNPMlNSSFJQOExaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxOTQxNzMxVTM5MkNFTVhVNEFKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I am painting a baby crib with chalk paint but I don’t know if I should apply a wax finish or just leave it, if so what do you recommend as the best finishing product for the lowest price?
I would definitely seal it because it will attract and hold dirt, skin oils that attract dirt, etc. and you won't be able to clean it since it is a flat paint. It will look bad fast. If it were me, I would either make some wax myself that was kid friendly or use Polycrylic. Polycrylic would be my first choice. It will make it cleanable and will offer a permanent sealing solution. (wax has to be re-applied). You can get a quart for under $15 and that should be enough to seal a crib. If you want to make your own wax, here is the recipe that I made and posted a video of. You can buy a small amount of beeswax pellets on ebay for less than $5 and baby oil at Dollar Tree for $1 to make this was. Thank you! Let us know how it turns out! Wendi ruclips.net/video/NsHw00bDUuk/видео.html
Is it possible to seal one layer of chalk paint then use more chalk paint then seal to finish? I want to sand back but not expose the wood just expose the first coat, does anyone haveany recomendations on how to acheive this?
Chalk paint has to be sealed with something or it soaks up every mark or stain so you can't use it to seal. If you want to seal the first coat, do that, paint the next coat and wet sand the second coat and no wood will show through. Then seal the top coat. You should be able to do this without sealing the first coat of paint. Let it get good and dry and use a rag, either dry or damp to take some of the second coat off before the paint dries. I usually wait a couple minutes after painting so it has started to dry a little bit.
Hi! Thanks for different sealing tips. I am doing my first chalk paint project. Used Annie Sloan paint and let piece dry 2 days. Went to apply minwax polycrylic water based clear matte finish. I did a test spot and discovered that as I brushed on the polycrylic it was wiping off the chalk paint...any ideas on what i am doing wrong. Thank you
Are you brushing back and forth when you put it on? I am not sure why the paint is coming off but it seems like if you did light coats and don't brush back and forth it may be better. Try to do one pass with the brush and do a few coats. You can also use a foam roller, but same thing, one or two passes and let it dry then come back again.
@@melissajones3914 I was thinking about your question again last night remembering when I painted houses. Whenever we had to paint a popcorn ceiling, it was easy to roll the popcorn off if you rolled over it more than once or twice. My question (to myself) was that when I painted the ceilings, I did not use a light coat on the roller. My goal was to get a coat on the ceiling without it peeling off and once it dried well, I would go over any light spots. I am re-thinking my answer saying to use a light coat. The correct thing to do is to use an amount of poly on the brush where you don't feel a pull as you brush it on. You don't want it too thick because it may pool a little bit and look un-even. There is also another solution that is pretty fool proof. If you use the spray poly first, you will have no problem brushing on a couple coats of poly. It will give you a good base coat. I know it will cost more to buy a can of spray poly and brush on poly, but if the added cost of $12-15 doesn't bother you, I would do it what way.
@@NashvilleRestoration ok thank you for your insight. I did try the poly again with a brush. Light strokes with one pass and it removed some of the chalk paint. The place I tested now looks like there is only 1 coat of chalk paint rather than two. I can get a can of the spray to test and let you know if that works out.
You will be able to tell soon if the wax will work. Since wax is something you have to re-apply, that means is wears away over time and use. You can see how it goes and re-wax it, take most of it off with hot water and a rag and put polyurethane or polycrylic on it. My current favorite sealer is Danish Oil. It looks like wax, does not have to be re-applied and it is tough. Here is a link to the danish oil video. ruclips.net/video/_h3_mbRa_Uk/видео.html
you talk about using baby oil to seal chalk paint. I am painting an old window and creating a display board. How would I go about sealing it with baby oil? Do I brush it on, or use a rag? I am new to chalk paint so trying to figure this out. Thanks!
You just rub on a light coat with a rag and then come back over it with a dry rag to remove the residue. I would put some chalk paint on little piece of wood and try the baby oil first to make sure you like it. Baby oil is the weakest of all the ways to seal chalk paint. It does work but depending on what you are sealing, it may not be the best. If you are doing something that won't get much wear and tear, it should be fine. An old window and a display board sound like the type of things I may use it on. Please let us know how it turns out so we know more about it!
I don't fancy spray finishing my dressing table as its to heavy to move outside to spray I can't do the wax as I have shoulder problems but I have a white chalky stuff come of wen wiping it do I want to cover it what's the best paint on to use please
You can brush on polycrylic. It is water based and durable and you won't have to do it again. Another option is to rub on danish oil and rub off the excess. It has a very velvety appearance. Just clean off all the wax you can without removing the paint first.
you need to poly, wax will wear and need to be redone, it's like when you wax your car, it requires upkeep but totally doable if you're up to it but I'd poly the base for sure.
just made it, I have personally used the minwax polycrylic water based top coat. I like it not love it its not 100% matte. It's hot a bit of sheen. It's easy to apply often you get tiny bubbles as you're applying it but I just run my brush really lightly before it dries until they disappear. I hate the fact that even if you place something we like a glass of water, you will have a mark. Almost as if liquid that's sits on it for a couple of minutes discolors the polycrylic coat. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, not sure.
I don't know much about the Kiltz wax, but I have stopped using wax and seal everything with danish oil. In my opinion, polyurethane, polycrylic and danish oil all seal better than wax does.
Polyurethane is the most durable, polycrylic won't yellow nearly as much, however, polyurethane won't yellow before you are done usng the crib. If you use polyurethane, you can often see as you do it where it is on too heavy as it is yellow in those spots. I would do the polycrylic. It will hold up just fine with a 2-3 coats.
The water based Polycrylic in Satin Finish will work for that. Clear wax/soft wax will do the same thing but has to be re-applied down the road for maintenance. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I have never tried that but my thoughts are as follows: I would wipe as much of the wax off as possible using the hottest water you can stand. The thinner the wax, the easier the clean up. Then I would use the poly. Both wax and poly are oil based so I would just make sure there are no heavy spots of wax. Since wax has to be re-done periodically, it is a medium that is not made to stay on forever and much of the residue will come up with hot water. I have removed a lot of wax that I made too thick in the recipe with a scraper and hot water with great results so I know wax will come up enough to poly. I would have definitely put poly on the dresser I cleaned the wax off of if the customer wanted it. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Miss Fix This thanks so much and I notice that wiping the stand with the warm wash rag that paints coming off so I must not have the wax too thick so I will just go ahead and add the poly
I was wondering the same thing. I’d like to use the dark wax for the “aged” effect, but want to have a very durable seal. Since it sounds like polyurethane would not go over wax, is there another approach for the aged effect?
Polycyclic almost always turns white and light chalk paint yellow. Don’t believe it when they say it doesn’t. These “flippers” don’t keep the piece long enough to see it turn yellow. I’ve been professionally painting and restoring furniture 30 years.
What would you recommend on bathroom and kitchen cabinets that are chalk painted? When I mop the paint comes off from the mop brushing against the cabinets.
Minwax polycrilic bubbles and foams like crazy no matter how careful you are and follow directions. Dries rough and milky. Far better products out there.
Hi I painted my two nightstand with a rust oleum chalk paint then I used flat top coat sealer. My question is if the top coat will protect my nightstand from cups. My husband come to the bedroom with glass of milk, can of soda, juice. I'm not sure if the clear coat will protect my chalk paint. Tks
I would like to know the answer to that myself as I have painted a very old vintage vanity table with white chalk paint I do not want to use wax but the polycrylic does have a yellowish cast.
I have been using the polycrylic on my pieces that have been painted white with chalk paint. The piece which gets a lot of sunlight and that I did 4 years ago has only a very slight yellowing. It's negligible. None of the other pieces have yellowed.
Polyurethane in Semi gloss or gloss finish will be the most glossy and most durable and it is oil base. Second to that is Polycrylic in semi gloss but not sure if they make it in gloss, Polycrylic is water based so there is a little less shine.
Also this one. If you find or have a piece of furniture already painted, you can sand it and it looks very similar to chalk paint. ruclips.net/video/2QgrU8fJ-Qs/видео.html
@@NashvilleRestoration thanks for all the tips and especially for answering, so many people don't. I'm sure you have a lot of questions and it requires your time but it is appreciated.
I love how you got STRAIGHT to the point!! Most people go on and on about their pets and their day!! Thank you!!
TY!
I agree and gave me the information I needed right away!!!
Thanks for getting right to the point and very informative and professional. Thank you
Thank you very much for your direct and informative presentation! Not only did you provide me with a solution to my situation but you “loaded me for bear” with alternatives in a variety of times! I appreciate you!
4 years ago?? It’s still relevant info here! Thank you for posting this!
Thank you!
Thanks a million, probably one of the most informative vids I've watched. No nonsence, to the point and v helpful. I'm sold and its a deffo subscribe
Thank you! I try to skip the unnecessary convo and get to the point. That's what I want when I watch a video.
Thanks for this baby oil adea,cause here in Africa we don't have those other products, thanks so so much
Thank you, simple and to the point!
Thank You.... You've answered my questions, with pictures...
Thank you I am glad it helped!
Thank you. I am so happy I have found your videos about painting on fabric furniture. From that video and after I subscribed, RUclips keeps showing more of your videos. You are amazing.
Glad this video is still up, it was very helpful!😊🌻
Thank you baby oil on my project I just did Onto Mason so I did chalk paint so thank you so much
I made some of your clear wax. I love how it smoothed on.
If I wanted extra protection could I put a polysilicon over wax?
Great video! Going to get some of the brush on polycrylic to finish my kitchen table! Thanks!
Thank you I am glad it helped!
Thank you so much for sharing this I’m redoing a small pie safe that was my mother’s I’ve got it painted exactly the way that I want it to look but I’ve been stumped as to what I can use to seal it . Now I know what I need to do thanks to you . I’m a new subscriber now ! 🙂
Baby oil, BRILLIANT! thanks so blooming useful...
I tried the Minwax poly clear today. Nice satin, almost clear wax look when dry. It was easy.
Did you use brush on or spray on?
Thanks for this review of the various products w/o feeling like I was being "sold" a particular product! I am looking to seal a reasonably large, great, solid and study thrift store bookshelf ($13!) that has a nice-looking crackled finish that I think is chalk paint without a sealer. I say the latter as a powdery substance comes off on our hands or towel when dusting...or moving it! So, since I not sure what the previous owner put on it, but would like to keep their finish, what would be a safe sealer for a questionable finish...and one that will yellow would be nice. THANK YOU in advance for your answer
Awesome! Thanks for getting right to the point.
That was super helpful!
Thank you!
I was redoing a shabby chic table I put vaseline where I didn't want the paint to stick, my sister was omg your so talented, till I told her I learned it on fb. 🤣😂
thank you !! I was wondering how to seal my paint!!
I just tried a small section with my auto wax. Super Hard Shell Turtle Wax. Looks like it will also work. Is there a wax that will finish with a antique look? Thanks.
Ty so much for sharing your knowledge with us, such great and useful information. Im subscribing right now :-)
Thank you!
Be careful cause polyurethane will pull tanins from wood and could
cause white to go orange or yellow.
A Day in My Life what’s the best way to seal that you recommend ? Thank you 🙏🏻
dEvOUr mE polycrylic won’t yellow, it is water based. Polyurethane is oil based and can yellow.
Some poly is water based now.
Thank you very much, short sweet and to the point
Love getting all your opinions on all the different choices.
Thank you so much for going over these. I am trying to save a little money while I learn this process. I am thinking about exploring painting on fabric. I'm starting with an ottoman using maybe the Rustoleum chalked paint watered down. Which sealer would you recommend? I would love to hear back any comments from you or the readers. Thank you for your knowledge.
Thank you for watching and commenting! I would use Tulip Spray dye for that. Chalk paint will be more expensive than fabric dye and chalk paint has to be sealed not once, but as ongoing maintenance just like on furniture. I personally would not want wax on my furniture and out the things used to seal chalk paint on fabric, wax is the only practical thing. The wax is heat sensitive (can't use it outside), picks up dirt easily and holds on to dust. I get fingerprints on chalk paint all the time and it is a hard surface to clean compared to other surfaces. I would use fabric dye and it is sealed, permanent and washable. Fabric dye is also much less stiff than chalk paint. Here is a video I did about Tulip Fabric Dye: ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=88rm5z4eRgU
very informative. can you say if any yellow over time? concerned because I'm using white chalk paint
I think that the polyurethane yellows the most. Other than that, so far as I know, by the time they yellow you may want to re-paint anyway.
Great tips! Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for the information! Would you suggest any of these for chalk painted fabric/upholstery on a high traffic sofa?
Wow I totally missed this question! I'm sure you figured it out by now but I would actually use a satin finish paint and skip the sealers on furniture.
Thank you. Right to the point. Love it.
2 Questions please? 1.- I want to chalk paint, antique & seal 6 dining chairs & farm table skirt & legs. Since I now know I want to use a "poly" to seal, (polycrylic as I don't want tinting later), what product should I use to "antique" prior to sealing? 2.- I want to sand the top and re stain to a different color then seal with something DURABLE & SATIN, (then Danish oil?). Are there any special considerations for stains before sealing? (water/oil based, etc.) THANKS in advance!
I think I understand this. You definitely don't need danish oil on top of polycrylic. I'm not even sure it would act right since it is made to go on wood that absorbs it.
As far as what to use for anitquing, I have used several products and I would recommend a water based antiquing stain so you can wipe off what you don't want easier. What technique you use to apply it well help determine how heavy it goes on. There are videos on this, unfortunately I have not made one yet. I usually do something like wipe on product with cloth, wipe off what I don't like immediately. I alwasys suggest a test board if you don't know what products will do. You can figure out how your products work before trying on your furniture because you can only try so much before you have to re-paint your furniture.
As far as applying the anitique finish, I have used a rag, a paint brush and a foam brush. I have removed excess with dry or wet rags. A "dry brush" technique works well for some looks. Maybe I will do a video on this soon.....
Also, the polycrylic is water based, another reason to use water based antiquing product. Oil based usually has some shine and chalk paint does not have a shine so it looks out of place unless you put a gloss finish on chalk paint, which rarely if ever happens.
I just finished chalk painting a laminate wood dresser. Chalk paint looks good but I tried brushing polycrylic on one drawer and it went on ok in some parts but then ended up kind of gummy or tacky at the ends. I might have just over worked it since it dries so fast. Now I am terrified to do the rest and mess it up. There is no real starting over on laminate. would you recommend watering down the poly before applying? or using a sponge applicator brush instead of a paint brush? I am a newbie to chalk painting furniture.
I am sorry I somehow didn't see this until now and sure you have figured it out but here is my answer. Yes you can add water to Polycrylic. I also recommend washing your brush out a little every 5 minutes. You definitely need to brush the Polycrylic as little as possible. Once you leave it for a couple minutes, you can't come back over it. If there is a mistake at that point, best to let it dry and sand with 400-600 grit sandpaper. You also cannot wet sand Polycrylic like Polyurethane. If it is tacky on the ends, let it dry before doing anything.
Excellent! Can you tell me if this is a good protection for outdoor items? I am thinking about a couple of urns I have that have been chalk painted. thank you!
Since this video was made back in 2018 and here in 2023 you’ve been able to experiment on various surfaces I am Curious if these sealing hacks apply to fabric, leather or vinyl or all 3 ?
Thank you for any input.
Great video...I’m painting a bathroom vanity with chalk paint, and I’ve already purchased the Minwax Polycrylic in Semi gloss...is that going to be an ok choice since it’s a high moisture and humidity bathroom?? Thank you!!!!!
Yes that is probably the best choice. :)
THANK YOU! Answered a lot of questions for me--I want to use tinted wax to warm/age my wooden signs but am concerned about wax coming off to touch or on wall etc--would a light tinted stain over paint do the same? Then seal? Is there a rule as to matching type of seal to paint used(acrylic paint-polycrylic seal) or bo? THANKS for sharing your expertise?
As long as there is no sealer on your paint yet, I would recommend light tinted stain and then use a satin finish brush on polyurethane (satin finish is low glare). Spray poly can be difficult to get a totally smooth appearance on something like a sign with high visual use so I would not use it in this case.
Brush on, oil based polyurethane is long lasting and is a "wipe clean" surface.
Tinted wax is great and durable but in high temperatures, but it is still wax. It's not going to drip off or anything, but I can tell you polyurethane won't budge. Wax is also something that requires maintenance, as in more wax down the road. If your sign is outdoors, I would never use wax.
If you used latex or water based paint, you can use water or oil based sealer. If you used oil based paint, you can only use and oil based sealer, which is polyurethane.
As for the stain color, hopefully you have some of the paint used to test how your stain will look before you put it on. If you do, get wood scrap and paint it and then test the stain look. If not, hopefully the back of the sign is painted and you can test it there. If you can't test, just go slow and light and it will be fine.
The safest way to get the look you want is to dilute your stain. If it is oil based stain, dilute it with mineral spirits. It is a lot easier to add more stain if it is too light and harder make it lighter again.
This would be my personal favorite option: You can also age your paint with more paint (oil for oil, latex for latex), but assuming you used latex paint on your signs, this is what I would do. Get a little 2 oz bottle or so of craft paint for a couple dollars, mix 1/2 water to 1/2 paint (for latex) and you basically have a "wash". You can brush or wipe on and wipe off until you get the look you like. Polyurethane seals it all in and there you go. Tough and cool signs!
Great video. I used the Rust-oleum Vhalkboard paint on a wall in my home for my kiddos. What is the best option as a sealer do you suggest. Please and thanky you for your help and time!!!
I don't think you seal the chalkboard paint do you? Wouldn't that change how it works? I have actually never used it so I am guessing.
Miss Fix This I think the chalkboard paint is porous so you can’t use chalk markers on it but only chalk, I’m trying to seal mine so I can use chalk markers. Which one will work??
This was so helpful, one question tho, why would my fingernail been able to chip the finish on my chalk painted vanity 48 hours after sealing with poly acrylic?
Question?
I sanded a dining room table and tinted it with wood tint. I used polyurethane matte to seal it. I don’t like the glossy look also I put 3 coats. Is this going to be ok for heavy traffic?
It should be if you have a good coating of poly on it. You could get some 400 grit sandpaper made for wet sanding and spray it with water and lightly sand it. It will take some of the shine away without hurting the sealing properties of the poly.
What would you recommend on a high traffic interior door? I recently painted it a dark blue and didn’t think about a top coat until this video. 😬
I would go with either polycrylic or polyurethane. Polycrylic is much easier to work with and has water clean up. Polyurethane is better but not in my opinion easy to work with, especially on dark colors. I vote brush on polycrylic.
I've been refinishing my kitchen table and chairs with a white chalk paint. We first sealed it with clear wax but then whenever I would wipe food off the chairs, the paint would show up on my wash cloth. We then sanded the wax off and tried a water based polyurethane which mostly works but if we apply it too thick it really yellows bad. It looks like someone peed all over the wood! What would you recommend to seal the paint so that it won't come off when wiped but also so that it doesn't yellow?
It looks like I am a bit late to comment here but I will just in case you haven't tried anything else. I have been using a lot of polycyclic lately and I don't like it. It is an issue with black paint too except heavy places show up as white. White paint is also the most difficult to hide anything.
I would use polyurethane on a dining table, but just like the polycyclic, if you put it on too heavy it will show. I would use the spray polyurethane in VERY light coats on the table legs, sides and chairs. Several light coats is much better than one solid coat. I would use the brush polyurethane to paint the table top.
I like the polyurethane because it the most durable of the chalk paint sealers. I would never suggest wax for a dining table top because it just won't hold up. You will have to re-paint the table and chairs to put a new finish on it. If you can stand to go darker on the color, any of the finishes will show much less.
How do you do the baby oil with a rag or with a brush?
thank you so much
My question is why does the water based polycrylic seem to lift my chalk paint instead of seal. I used Waverly ink chalk paint on my dresser. I waited a few days and applied the oolycrylic. It removed my paint . It was literally changing the color of the polycrylic. So then I add color to the polycrylic . What did I do wrong?
My first guess it that the chalk paint didn't adhere well to the surface. I always scuff sand everything. Even the best chalk paint in my opinion has difficulty adhering to very shiny or waxed surfaces. I know the scuff sanding kind of cancels out some of the reasons to use chalk paint, but I like the look of the chalk paint. Second, if you put the the Polycrylic on too light and drag the brush through it too much, that could also be the problem. I would place my bet on the chalk paint.
Can we use Mod podge to seal glazed Chalk paint?
I have never done it but I don't see why not. It is a sealer. I would test it on a small area and see how it does. Rough it up a bit, set a cup of coffee on it for a while, etc. If it works well, I would give it a try!
Thank you so much for your reply. I will try on a sample as you said. It is just the cabinet doors and the draws, so nothing will be on it. The top is plain wood already sealed. But it will be good to see how the mod podge looks like on the sample. Thank you! 😊
Can you combine more than 1 typle of finish by layering it? Such as wax and Polyurethane? Im thinking if adding a slightly brown wax on white chalk paint but seal it with something more durable and clear.
Can you use bees wax to seal chalk paint furniture
Hello, question. How long do you let Chalk Paint dry before sealing?
Great video. I just finished a large very heavy 10 ft dining table. I cannot carry it outside. Which do you recommend for doing indoors? I have small kids. I’m worried if the fumes will linger and be harmful. I have used polyurethane oil based but it was for a chair I was able to carry outside.
Thanks in advance
I would use the brush on polycrylic. Not nearly as much fumes and faster drying time.
Miss Fix This thanks going to try that when I get a chance. I ended up sealing mine w two coats of wax. Then last week someone sprayed suntan spray and some drops of it (it was too hot) landed on the table and actually lifted the wax and paint ☹️should sealed it sooner lol
Thanks for the tips
@@missdaisy9040 wow!
I painted a sofa with chalk paint, can I use baby oil to seal it?
Can you use poly after you wax?
How long should the fualk arts chalk paint need to dry before using the polycrylic?
OMG! thank You! Plain and simple. Do you think polycrylic will be good enough for a dinning table that kids eat on?
Yes Polycrylic will work but I would put a three coats on the top if you are brushing it on and 5 or six light spray coats if you are using a spray can.
Hi I’m going to being painting my dinning table also with chalk paint how long in between do I wait to apply the second layer of topcoat ?
these sealants, specifically the baby oil, do you mix it with the chalk paint? Or does it go as a layer on top of the chalk paint once it has dried? Thanks
Everything goes on the chalk paint after it is dry. None of them mix in.
Hi, are the wax products made from bees wax? Can you use just beeswax to seal chalk paint? Thanks
I put 3 coats of white chalk paint on my kitchen table legs and aprons, and 3 coats of Charcoal chalk paint on the table top. After that fully dried I put 1 coat of water-based Minwax Satin Polycrylic on (all with an HVLP sprayer). The Charcoal top looked fine, but the white all yellowed in splotches all over almost immediately! It looks like the pieces were in a 2 pack-a-day smokers house for 20 years! Now I have sand an refinish all of the legs and aprons, but I'm worried about it, obviously. What gives?!?!
It sounds like One of two things. It was sprayed on too heavy on the legs, but I have not seen this with polycrylic but I have seen it with polyurethane. I think More than likeLy the tannins in the wood came through the paint when the water based sealer hit it. Since chalk paint can go over polycrylic, I would not sand it because the same thing can happen again. Just lightly scuff sand before painting. If it is the tannins, the first polycrylic sealed it and it won’t happen next time.
I have tried using the brush on polycrilic and ended up with a huge amount of bubbles. I have used brush on polyurethane for years with no problem and used the same brush and technique. Any thoughts?
I'm sure you have completed this project by now. I am finding missed questions on my channel.
I have been using polycyclic a lot lately and had a lot of problems. It's just not easy to work with in my opinion. Very bubbly, very easy to use too much and have white spots on dark paint or dark spots on light paint. If you shook it before using it, this makes a lot of bubbles. Stirring too vigorously before using it can also make bubbles. Moisture on my brush causes bubbles. I'm not really a fan of the polycyclic anymore.
Also in my opinion, the brushes I use for Polyurethane are made for oil paint or stain. Polycrylic is water based and works much better for me with a high quality latex brush.
THANK YOU!!!
I have a question I use the chalk paint and I also put wax on top of the chalk paint but I’m not very happy with the outcome do you know if I could put the lacquer on top of the wax or do I have to take the wax off thank you
People say they go right over the wax with another finish. I would recommend trying to remove as much of the was as possible with a warm, wet rag. If it starts to take paint of, and it usually does, just don't worry about it. Just try to get excess wax off if you can.
Plz help so I used folk art chalk paint from michaels to paint my full sz oak sleigh bed. Two 8 ounce bottles were enough and I got them for $4 each with coupons! But I don't like the color and I'm not sure how to seal it (im new to painting). The color is Maui sand which is a charcoal, it reminds me of cement. So my question is do you recommend sealing it? I've seen a lot of posts sayin you don't have to. And I wanted to know what would happen if I used my rustoleum decorative glaze in Java Brown over it. It says it's semi transparent. I don't knw if its water or oil based. I know itll slightly tint my bed and I guess I'm ok with that since I don't like the color anyway. Would it be a drastic change in color ? Will the glaze give it some protection so i don't need to seal It? Should i just buy a topcoat? Thanks in advance! When I ask homedepot and michaels workers they all say completely diff things and I can tell they have no knowledge of Chalk paint. It freaks me out that they recommend certain things not knowing it can ruin a project.
A Ali you want to put some type of sealer on before glazing chalk paint. Chalk paint is porous and will grab antiquing glaze. If you don’t like the color, you can paint over it with a different color then topcoat. I like polycrylic. You can then glaze any details you want (wipe off excess) and top coat again. You will have a nice durable finish then.
Can you use baby oil gel? I don't have an outside space which would be better I'm sure do these products have an odor. Can I use any of them in the house? Thank you!
Yes you can use baby oil gel. If you use commercial soft wax, it can also be used indoors.
I just posted this video of a DIY non toxic wax. It is 100% safe for indoor use. Thank you! ruclips.net/video/W_hMUNwVDxQ/видео.html
So use baby oil by itself??
What about urethane to seal.i was told it’s good for indoor and out door furniture
I assume you mean polyurethane? Yes it is good for both just read the label and make sure it says it can be used outdoors. This is one of the best options and my favorite for outdoor use.
I have seen dark wax used over light chalk paint so can I use minwax polyshades on an off white chalk paint table?
I have not done it but I have seen others do it and it worked fine. I know they recommend putting clear wax on before the dark wax because it goes on too dark otherwise. The paint is porus and will soak up whatever you put on it. If it were me, I would paint a scrap piece of wood with the chalk paint and try the dark wax to see if I liked how it looked and skip the clear wax if possible. Please let us know how it turns out!
@@NashvilleRestoration thank you! It will be a couple wks probably before I get asserting to finishing it but I'll let you know how it worked out. Have a great wk!
Why can’t we use water based?
im late to the chalk game. Lost a few loved ones and throwing out my fancy expensive crap and living like them in the depression making it a challenge to up cycle everything. Chalk painted end table then acrylic latex protectant on one and don't really care for it. I have used danish oil on a live piece of wood cut from the family tree (a real tree) and loved it. I also used the danish on a old home interior shelf I chalk painted over and it was a disaster. maybe cuz i didn't strip.? Did clean and sand tho. All info overload.
Do you have to strip sand furniture before chalk painting? and what finish goes next?
Can you sand treated wood and use Danish oil over chalk paint regardless of whats under the chalk paint?
Each project I feel like Im failing.
HELP....anyone
Im even new to this and so confused by so many different answers....thsi one seemed to be the least amount of anxiety.
Hope i can find my way back here to find a answer. lol
Thank you it is very interesting
what works best for white chalk paint on kitchen cabinets? My cabinets prior were already painted dark grey I used Rustoleum Linen White and having hard time figuring out what is my best option without getting this "yellowing" everyone says will happen never used white before?
I would go with brush on Polycrylic.
Which would you recommend for a wood sign that has been stained with a oil-based stain and has white letters written on it with oil-based paint
I would use brush on satin finish polyurethane. Polyurethane is the longest lasting and durable sealer and it is oil based like your paint is. You can’t use water based polycrylic over oil based paint for the same reason you can’t paint latex over oil based paint. If this is an outdoor sign, make sure the wood is pressure treated for outdoor use otherwise no sealer will keep the wood from expanding, degrading and swelling. For signs, a lot of shine can make it hard to read because of glare so I would use a satin finish and avoid gloss or semi gloss. Brush on poly gives a thicker finish and avoids dealing with the pools spray can leave, which can be wet sanded but still I never use spray poly on a wood finish because of this, I only use it on painted surfaces.
Miss Fix This thanks!
@@NashvilleRestoration Would you recommend Baby Oil on outdoor signs with Chalk Paint?
@@thewhitner1 I would use an outdoor polyurethane like Minwax Spar satin polyurethane.. You will get a long lasting finish. I think baby oil would deteriorate very quickly outdoors. www.amazon.com/Minwax-33255000-Helmsman-Urethane-Aerosol/dp/B0009XCLIC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Outdoor+polyurethane&qid=1603066158&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQVVMwSDhMSFE4WEUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNjE5NTMzMzNPMlNSSFJQOExaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxOTQxNzMxVTM5MkNFTVhVNEFKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I am painting a baby crib with chalk paint but I don’t know if I should apply a wax finish or just leave it, if so what do you recommend as the best finishing product for the lowest price?
I would definitely seal it because it will attract and hold dirt, skin oils that attract dirt, etc. and you won't be able to clean it since it is a flat paint. It will look bad fast. If it were me, I would either make some wax myself that was kid friendly or use Polycrylic. Polycrylic would be my first choice. It will make it cleanable and will offer a permanent sealing solution. (wax has to be re-applied). You can get a quart for under $15 and that should be enough to seal a crib. If you want to make your own wax, here is the recipe that I made and posted a video of. You can buy a small amount of beeswax pellets on ebay for less than $5 and baby oil at Dollar Tree for $1 to make this was. Thank you! Let us know how it turns out! Wendi ruclips.net/video/NsHw00bDUuk/видео.html
Miss Fix This thank you so much for replying & quick ☺️👍 definitely gonna take your word!!
Thank you! I am glad I could help. :)
Great video what is the price of Valparaiso spray
It is less than $5 at Lowes.
Is it possible to seal one layer of chalk paint then use more chalk paint then seal to finish? I want to sand back but not expose the wood just expose the first coat, does anyone haveany recomendations on how to acheive this?
Chalk paint has to be sealed with something or it soaks up every mark or stain so you can't use it to seal. If you want to seal the first coat, do that, paint the next coat and wet sand the second coat and no wood will show through. Then seal the top coat. You should be able to do this without sealing the first coat of paint. Let it get good and dry and use a rag, either dry or damp to take some of the second coat off before the paint dries. I usually wait a couple minutes after painting so it has started to dry a little bit.
Hi! Thanks for different sealing tips. I am doing my first chalk paint project. Used Annie Sloan paint and let piece dry 2 days. Went to apply minwax polycrylic water based clear matte finish. I did a test spot and discovered that as I brushed on the polycrylic it was wiping off the chalk paint...any ideas on what i am doing wrong. Thank you
Are you brushing back and forth when you put it on? I am not sure why the paint is coming off but it seems like if you did light coats and don't brush back and forth it may be better. Try to do one pass with the brush and do a few coats. You can also use a foam roller, but same thing, one or two passes and let it dry then come back again.
@@NashvilleRestoration Yes, I did and that might be the problem. I will try your suggestion and let you know how I make out, thank you!
@Hineni John3:16 Hello, yes, I cleaned it with Murphy's oil soap/water and let it dry before painting.
@@melissajones3914 I was thinking about your question again last night remembering when I painted houses. Whenever we had to paint a popcorn ceiling, it was easy to roll the popcorn off if you rolled over it more than once or twice. My question (to myself) was that when I painted the ceilings, I did not use a light coat on the roller. My goal was to get a coat on the ceiling without it peeling off and once it dried well, I would go over any light spots. I am re-thinking my answer saying to use a light coat. The correct thing to do is to use an amount of poly on the brush where you don't feel a pull as you brush it on. You don't want it too thick because it may pool a little bit and look un-even.
There is also another solution that is pretty fool proof. If you use the spray poly first, you will have no problem brushing on a couple coats of poly. It will give you a good base coat. I know it will cost more to buy a can of spray poly and brush on poly, but if the added cost of $12-15 doesn't bother you, I would do it what way.
@@NashvilleRestoration ok thank you for your insight. I did try the poly again with a brush. Light strokes with one pass and it removed some of the chalk paint. The place I tested now looks like there is only 1 coat of chalk paint rather than two. I can get a can of the spray to test and let you know if that works out.
Hi I have already waxed the top of my kitchen table with clear wax from Annie Sloan... will it be durable enough? Should I have used polyurathane?
You will be able to tell soon if the wax will work. Since wax is something you have to re-apply, that means is wears away over time and use. You can see how it goes and re-wax it, take most of it off with hot water and a rag and put polyurethane or polycrylic on it. My current favorite sealer is Danish Oil. It looks like wax, does not have to be re-applied and it is tough. Here is a link to the danish oil video. ruclips.net/video/_h3_mbRa_Uk/видео.html
you talk about using baby oil to seal chalk paint. I am painting an old window and creating a display board. How would I go about sealing it with baby oil? Do I brush it on, or use a rag? I am new to chalk paint so trying to figure this out. Thanks!
You just rub on a light coat with a rag and then come back over it with a dry rag to remove the residue. I would put some chalk paint on little piece of wood and try the baby oil first to make sure you like it. Baby oil is the weakest of all the ways to seal chalk paint. It does work but depending on what you are sealing, it may not be the best. If you are doing something that won't get much wear and tear, it should be fine. An old window and a display board sound like the type of things I may use it on. Please let us know how it turns out so we know more about it!
I don't fancy spray finishing my dressing table as its to heavy to move outside to spray I can't do the wax as I have shoulder problems but I have a white chalky stuff come of wen wiping it do I want to cover it what's the best paint on to use please
You can brush on polycrylic. It is water based and durable and you won't have to do it again. Another option is to rub on danish oil and rub off the excess. It has a very velvety appearance. Just clean off all the wax you can without removing the paint first.
Can I give a quick visit of chalk paint later if it starts to look tired? I guess not over the baby oil.
Chalk paint can over wax and baby oil is in wax so yes you can. I would wipe excess oil off really well.
i just chalk painted my very large kitchen table and would like to know the best sealer. we use this table daily. Thank you!
you need to poly, wax will wear and need to be redone, it's like when you wax your car, it requires upkeep but totally doable if you're up to it but I'd poly the base for sure.
Im looking some something as cheap as possible to use over chalk paint that works and doesnt yellow the white/cream paint.
just made it, I have personally used the minwax polycrylic water based top coat. I like it not love it its not 100% matte. It's hot a bit of sheen. It's easy to apply often you get tiny bubbles as you're applying it but I just run my brush really lightly before it dries until they disappear. I hate the fact that even if you place something we like a glass of water, you will have a mark. Almost as if liquid that's sits on it for a couple of minutes discolors the polycrylic coat. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, not sure.
I've waxed a bench with the Kiltz wax with 3 coats and yet it gets stained.
I don't know much about the Kiltz wax, but I have stopped using wax and seal everything with danish oil. In my opinion, polyurethane, polycrylic and danish oil all seal better than wax does.
White chalk paint on a crib should I use polycrylic or polyurethane? Which is more durable and won't yellow.
Polyurethane is the most durable, polycrylic won't yellow nearly as much, however, polyurethane won't yellow before you are done usng the crib. If you use polyurethane, you can often see as you do it where it is on too heavy as it is yellow in those spots. I would do the polycrylic. It will hold up just fine with a 2-3 coats.
Which one of these will not give a high gloss or turn the gray Furniture yellow
The water based Polycrylic in Satin Finish will work for that. Clear wax/soft wax will do the same thing but has to be re-applied down the road for maintenance. Thank you for watching and commenting!
all oil based paints yellow
Is the Valspar topcoat to be used in gloss?
if you like gloss
Can you use the polyurethane if you already have wax on your project surface
I have never tried that but my thoughts are as follows: I would wipe as much of the wax off as possible using the hottest water you can stand. The thinner the wax, the easier the clean up. Then I would use the poly. Both wax and poly are oil based so I would just make sure there are no heavy spots of wax. Since wax has to be re-done periodically, it is a medium that is not made to stay on forever and much of the residue will come up with hot water. I have removed a lot of wax that I made too thick in the recipe with a scraper and hot water with great results so I know wax will come up enough to poly. I would have definitely put poly on the dresser I cleaned the wax off of if the customer wanted it. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Miss Fix This thanks so much and I notice that wiping the stand with the warm wash rag that paints coming off so I must not have the wax too thick so I will just go ahead and add the poly
That is what I would do too!
Tulip Color shot Interior "Grape"
I was wondering the same thing. I’d like to use the dark wax for the “aged” effect, but want to have a very durable seal. Since it sounds like polyurethane would not go over wax, is there another approach for the aged effect?
Polycyclic almost always turns white and light chalk paint yellow. Don’t believe it when they say it doesn’t. These “flippers” don’t keep the piece long enough to see it turn yellow. I’ve been professionally painting and restoring furniture 30 years.
What would you recommend on bathroom and kitchen cabinets that are chalk painted? When I mop the paint comes off from the mop brushing against the cabinets.
Minwax polycrilic bubbles and foams like crazy no matter how careful you are and follow directions. Dries rough and milky. Far better products out there.
Hi
I painted my two nightstand with a rust oleum chalk paint then I used flat top coat sealer. My question is if the top coat will protect my nightstand from cups. My husband come to the bedroom with glass of milk, can of soda, juice. I'm not sure if the clear coat will protect my chalk paint.
Tks
let it cure so avoid setting anything directly on it for a couple of weeks, it's just dry.
What is the best seal (non wax) that wont yellow? THANK YOU
I would like to know the answer to that myself as I have painted a very old vintage vanity table with white chalk paint I do not want to use wax but the polycrylic does have a yellowish cast.
What did u guys end up using ???
I have been using the polycrylic on my pieces that have been painted white with chalk paint. The piece which gets a lot of sunlight and that I did 4 years ago has only a very slight yellowing. It's negligible. None of the other pieces have yellowed.
Which one of these will give a gloss finish?
Polyurethane in Semi gloss or gloss finish will be the most glossy and most durable and it is oil base. Second to that is Polycrylic in semi gloss but not sure if they make it in gloss, Polycrylic is water based so there is a little less shine.
don't use chalk paint
What is a fake chalk paint video?
It a video like this one that shows how to make latex paint look like chalk paint. ruclips.net/video/bZL_eckT0JQ/видео.html
Also this one. If you find or have a piece of furniture already painted, you can sand it and it looks very similar to chalk paint. ruclips.net/video/2QgrU8fJ-Qs/видео.html
@@NashvilleRestoration thanks for all the tips and especially for answering, so many people don't. I'm sure you have a lot of questions and it requires your time but it is appreciated.
Thank you! I love questions and I try to answer them all. I miss them sometimes and don't realize they were there.
Great information!! Thank you!