Guide to metal finishing techniques, heat shrink in detail, to a file finish.
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Comprehensive guide to the art of metal finishing with Peter from Mobile Car Restoration. In this video, we cover traditional skills and techniques that are the cornerstone of metal finishing, also called file finish. This is a must-watch for automotive restoration enthusiasts eager to learn and master new skills. Today, we are focusing on the process of metal finishing a Porsche 356 roof.
Metal finishing is a time-honored craft that involves shaping and smoothing metal to achieve a flawless surface. Unlike modern methods that rely heavily on body fillers, traditional metal finishing uses tools and techniques to remove imperfections and restore the metal to its original form. This video aims to provide you with a solid foundation in these methods, ensuring you have the skills to tackle your own restoration projects.
Our video provides a detailed walkthrough of the metal finishing process on a Porsche 356 roof, from start to finish. We start by evaluating the condition of the Porsche 356 roof. Identifying dents, warps, and stretched areas is crucial for planning the work ahead.
Using hammers and dollies, we demonstrate how to gently coax the metal back into shape. This involves a series of careful taps, working the metal in small increments to avoid overworking and causing further damage.
For areas where the metal has stretched, heat shrinking is essential. We show you how to use a torch and shrinking disc to carefully heat the metal, causing it to contract and regain its original form. This step requires precision and patience, and we provide tips to avoid common pitfalls.
Once the major imperfections are addressed, we use flippers to further smooth the surface. This step helps distribute the metal evenly and prepares it for the final finishing touches.
The final step involves using files to remove any remaining high spots and create a perfectly smooth surface. This step is crucial for achieving a professional look and ensuring the metal is ready for primer and paint.
Throughout the video, we share insider tips and tricks to make the process easier and more effective:
Patience is Key: Metal finishing is an art that requires time and precision. Rushing the process can lead to mistakes and subpar results.
At Melomotive, we are passionate about sharing our knowledge and expertise with fellow automotive enthusiasts. Our team has high-level experience with techniques and materials in automotive refinish and best practices for restoration. Whether you're working in a home workshop or running a professional garage, our videos are designed to help you achieve the best results in your projects.
Great information. Thank you...
Thank you Gentlemen for the terrific lesson on metal work. Kind regards.
Your welcome.
Good morning gentlemen, what brand and model is the torch that you used in this video? Very informative and educational. Thank you.
Thanks once again Peter and Peter. You guys are champions!
Thanks, Glad you liked it
Great video, I enjoy seeing others techniques and always find tidbits to improve on.
what a great vid. started a little long winded but really gets into the hands-on detail by the end. if this series continues i'll definitely be subscribing.
Thanks
Another great video, thanks
Thanks
well explained guys!
Thanks.
Excellent vid.
Thanks mate
Awesome video guys
Thanks
Great video, nice tricks. Thanks a lot
You're welcome!
Great video for understanding and learning
thanks
Great work fellas.
Thanks
What file is he using on the body file. The one that came with mine seems to try shave metal off easy as. Seems like mine is more for eating off lead filler not to rough up a 1mm panel. I’ve tried going very light but then it doesn’t seem to leave an impression. Appreciate any advice. And good video too. Subscribed.
Really really handy video. I know there are heaps of scenarios. I have a Holden Ute with high and low spots right along the 'banana' body lines. Would you guys do some vids on dents on body lines, both in and out. This one you did was obviously easier as you could reach dolly under, any tips where you can't?
Thanks mate. Absolutely planning on more. Dents with limited access is definitely something we need to cover.
I second this question. Would be great content to add.
What torch setup is that? Looks like it provides pretty precise control.
Great video guys. Curious about the dye, if sharpie can bleed through paint why not the dye? I've used a big fat sharpie on a door the same way, but now wondering if that was a bad idea.
Hi mate. Some permanent markers contain an acid, that help bind the pigment to a surface. If enough acid is left on the surface it can bleed through a coating later. If you have sanded and cleaned the steel thoroughly it should be fine. We felt it was an important fact to mention. The marking dye creates a film that sits top of the surface.
Maybe not show every hammer and slapper hit in fast motion. Seeing how lightly he makes the strike would be of paramount importance. Thank God for closed captioning. 😊
Thanks, will keep it mind for the next one.
Definetly. I'm always wanting to see work being done in real time.
Can you give us a bit more info on the blue dye - is it toolmakers ink ?
The one we used here is a custom mix we’re playing with. But, yes, engineers marking fluid/die is very commonly used.
No it’s called “Dykem” it’s just for covering the metal surface so when you go over it with a file or a sander it shows the high and low spots in the metal surface.
@@mrgreezy1 Same Same
Back when I did a ton of metal finishing I used the mushroom head that comes with an electric stud puller for better heat control ( Even though I have a gas torch with an auto relighter). Also, for beginners, you will find using a light cotton glove on the hand you are feeling the metal with will amplify damage. And if you are a beginner I wouldn't recommend a 356 as your first attempt as they are very challenging hence the requisite adjustable vixen file frame.
Does Peter have a RUclips channel or any other kind of social media?
Yes, look up “mobile car restoration” he’s on most social platforms.
Please show the panel after you are done with it! How perfect can you get it with the blue dykem?
Will do, this roof will be used on a project we're planning on documenting.
Has that blue dye been thinned out? What did you use?
Yes, it has here. We're experimenting with different formulas.
You can thin it out with paint thinner but the more you thin it the harder it is too see
What is the different of the ink in the Sharpe vs. the Blue Dye (Blue Dye is not Ink?)
Sharpie has an etch that can bite into the steal and show latter. The blue dye is actually a solvent pigment that sits on top of the steal and causes no issues in the future.
I'm surprised nobody uses a nice soft rag between their palm and the surface to feel for highs and lows.
I learned that years back from my uncle who was a panel beater for over 50 years I got looked at like I was mad when I used it at work. A piece of masking paper works good too.
not needed once experience in feel sets in
Meanwhile PDR gets the same results without even damaging the paint.
peter is great at the doing part without a doubt , but unfortunately lacks in the depth of explanation part , which is shame he can't or struggles to articulate ,
great job pete
Now show me that on a xd xe flat roof skin. A big old round roof is easy 😂
sounds like you've struggled with it , maybe with the right technique and knowledge you'd do just fine no doubt
@@icarusdb58 sounds like you have no idea
JFC. That music is just atrocious. It’s so jarring the way it cuts in and out and it adds nothing to learning about how to do metal finishing.
More explaining about how you’re doing the metal finishing and less bad metal music would be my suggestion.
Thanks for the feedback, we'll keep it in mind for the next one.
I'm just not a fan of metal filing off metal because your removing the thickness