What Resin To Use | The Best Epoxy For Woodworking
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2023
- Take a look at our favourite Epoxy resins and what we use them for, and learn to avoid disaster!
Let us know if you have any questions or suggestions for future videos.
________________________________________________________
Follow us on our other platforms!
Website ➤ jeffmacksupply.com/
Instagram ➤ / jeffmackdesigns
Shop Instagram ➤ / jeffmacksupply
Facebook ➤ / jeffmackdesigns Хобби
Let us know all your epoxy questions below in the comments! We want to hear your good experiences and bad experiences with different brands. Would love to help some of you trouble shoot and problem solve so you can get better results! Thanks for watching!
Jeff, I have been wondering where to start with epoxy inlay. Your presentation has answered a lot of questions, and will have kept me from making a lot of mistakes at the starting line. Thank you so much for doing this work and making this information available.
My first project is to create epoxy inlays in stiles of sapele wainscot. The cavities that make up the design are about 1/8" to 3/16" deep, and 1/8" or less wide. From your descriptions, it seems that Ecopoxy UV is the closest match for this application. The SPR, though, has properties that appear to be more beginner-friendly and more pleasant to work with. Do you think SPR will do the job; or, should I go with UV? You're busy making a living - thanks for your time. --Jim
@@jimwebb8368 you can use the SPR for that application but it will take longer to cure. Personally, I’d go with the UVpoxy. I don’t think the learning curve will be too difficult with the UVpoxy and will be a better option long term for you for that application.
@@jeffmackdesigns Thanks for the help. On a Sunday, no less! Regards, Jim
This video just helped me a LOT! I subscribed. I do have one question. When I have my resin mold charcuterie molds poured & done, I plan to sand down multiple times, and buff with a wax. Is this what you meant when you said that you do a "oil finish"? I just think it looks better sanding through 10 different grit layers and then buffing with compound(s) and then buffing with a wax. Please let me know. Thanks!
I really like super clear. I did a dinning room table for a friend and it came out great
We've always had good experiences with Super Clear. Glad to hear your project turned out great!
@@jeffmackdesigns I use the deep pour and the table top in this brand, always great results.
@@jeffmackdesigns It's all thanks to you guys. My first set of wood and forms came from you guys. which gave me enough confidence to do a river dining room table for my friend.
Thanks for the informative video. I have used the ecopoxys that you spoke of and have had no issues.
Thats great to hear! We really enjoy using ecopoxy in our shop, its done very well for us too!
Great info. I just poured the super clear 2-4” last night. Super easy instructions and easy to do. Did a few serving trays. Could have used the 24hr one. Didn’t want to risk it though. It’s my first time doing an epoxy table. So still has time to fail. But 12hrs in and it’s going great
If you've got the time, there's no harm in a longer curing pour! How did it end up turning out?
Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks guys 🙌 This is super informative 👍
Great video! I was trying to explain to my wife why we pay more for epoxy than she could find online.
This had amazing information in it. I am incredibly grateful for it. I havent watched other videos from you, so you may have addressed this, but the mic feed was not equalized. It really made it hard to listen to on headphones, or in portrait mode on my phone.
I have used Flowcasr and Squidpoxy, both with great results. Recently tried Ice Cast as I had to turn a project round pretty quickly and it was what I could get locally. Again very happy with the results. I do like the sound of the SPP... I think an order will be coming your way shortly.
Thanks for the insight! We don't think you'll be disappointed with SPR, its been great to work with especially on those quick turn arounds. 👍
Great video and great breakdown of each type .
I got into epoxy woodwoorking because of you guys and ever since i work with products you recommended even bought one of your 2x4 hdpe molds !
That is awesome! We love hearing that we've caused inspiration, and we are grateful for your continued support. Keep at it!
I will try it !! I just bought ecopoxy flow spr!!thank you so much ❤
Good luck! Chime in with your results, so far we've loved using SPR.
FINALLY!!! A decent video explaining the different kinds of epoxy and best uses for each kinds.
One thing though, why wouldn’t you use the thick pour epoxy for deep pours instead of RISKING the other that’s only good for 1” and 1/2?
Great video!! 👍🏻👍🏻
We use flowcast for thicker pours because we've found it to be consistent for our uses. It's what we're used to, and what works for us! We could use other thick pour epoxies, but we like pushing limits 😉
@@jeffmackdesigns, what is your opinion on using AkFix 705 vs Black CA glue for filing small pin holes?
REALLY need some advice on a project I did for the Nature Centre, as I am their artist. I had to cover mosaic tile table tops (which had been created years ago, so everything was more than fully cured and stored inside) with resin so the surface would not cut any little fingers. Well, I got an Eci epoxy resin with UV protection rated for outside use and put 3 thin layers on it. Cure of each layer for at least 3 days before lite sand and apply more. Looked great and prevented any sharp edges from protruding. It seemed fine over the summer, facing west, however, when winter came it had turned yellowish and even cracked in a few places. I am not sure what to do with these artworks now. I could lift off the epoxy and re-apply after sanding it down etc, but then do I add a varnish on top to protect it? We have extreme temps here in Canada. From -30 to + 95 Celcius here., Thank you in advance. I really hope you see this, as I can't seem to get any answers from anyone on this topic! I did learn from your video, I just need some more ideas before going to town on this yet again. Cheers and thank you!!:) I used the Ecopoxy exterior epoxy UV. for thin pours at a time. I did not need a deep pour over the mosaic tiles.
Love this, super informative. Ive been buying from yall for a while. You used to carry squid epoxy, and I was wondering why you stopped. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! We stopped carrying SquidPoxy because they were having some serious quality control issues and they had no inventory. We've been really happy with the Flow Cast SPR which is a direct replacement to the SquidPoxy Clear Fast that everyone liked.
@@jeffmackdesigns thanks for the info!
@@austinwise7436 No problem! Happy to help!
just starting out as a hobby at home in my free time, any beginner tips? This video was already extremely helpful
Absorb as much info and tutorials as you can. Hopefully all of our content found on both our pages can help you get started. Start small, experiment but most of all have fun!
Any thoughts on Ryver epoxy? Seems like some shops like it for super clear pours.
Hello, Thank you for the provided great information. What would be the best choice for classic car interior wood trim? I have removed cracked old layers / veneer and applied stain to the parts after sanding and preparing the surface. Now I need to add appropriate resin/epoxy. Please advise. Thank you!
For something like that, maybe consider a product that could be found on firearms and gunstocks. Tru-Oil comes to mind!
I am just starting out and reviewing everything before diving in! Starting with using templates and making all wood boards, but want to dabble with Resin a lot. Your videos are amazing! Now for resin ours for 1.25-1.5” will Ecopoxy SPR be good use case or better to go a deep pour epoxy? Also have you used CA glue by Starbond Thick medium instead of Akfix for pin holes and filling voids? If you have is that better or is it basically the same and would work here as well?
Sorry for such a delayed response! SPR is rated for 1", so we can't really recommend going thicker although we have done it with success. Any CA glue would work in theory, we just prefer akfix and have used other brands in the past!
Thank you for your descriptions. I am looking to add 1" feet to my wood patio furniture and I am thinking to use the liquid glass. What would you recommend?
You could try that for sure!
nice
Thanks for watching!
So for smaller projects...say 12x24x1" the Ecopoxy SPR would work? Will that work with shallower pours such as filling in the stripes on a flag carved with a cnc of say 1/8" as well?
Great video and maybe the best explanations I've seen to date. Thank you and keep up the good work!
The spr is perfect for the 12” by 24” by 1” application and you can also use it for the 1/8” application but it will take a little longer to cure due to the small volume. Ideally, the Ecopoxy UVpoxy would be for the 1/8” pour.
@@jeffmackdesigns Thank you!!
Kinda surprised you don't mention Alumilite or Total boat? I found Total boat to be very user friendly after seeing how Alumilite reacts to any kind of moisture issues in wood.
I haven't used Total Boat before butI have heard good things. If we were to bring in another brand, that would probably be the one. In terms of Alumilite, I have minimal experience with it so i didn't think it would be a good one to include. In the future I want to talk more about Alumilite after I have more experience with it.
It’s not friendly, ruined my 2 projects, terrible formula, too thick, leaving bumps and lumps.
@@annadivorn3047 if there is any moisture in the wood. Alumilite will react negatively. Other than that, it does well.
@@unclemoe5733 I was referring Total Boat
@annadivorn3047 anna, I've been using TB High Performance for over 3 years. The only time I've had issues is when i push the limits on Volume. Wondering what type you used? Possibly, a mixing issue? What kind of projects failed? Trying to help and learn here!
Just curious as to why you would push the limit on the ecopoxy when you also have the super clear in your shop? I use super clear for most everything as well. Why not just use it when it is designed exactly for the pour you are doing rather than pushing the limits on the other.
I use wisebond. All i’ve tried. Seems to work well. Thanks for the insight.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback. I haven’t heard too much about that brand before.
I'm a woodturner myself, and my blanks occasionally throw up checks, flaws, cracks and voids, usually pretty small (less than 1 inch). Do I want Acfix?
I got a question i did a table but was and still to stick paper mark everywhere so i want to epoxy on top again with out remove just to get it the right way this time with epoxy i shut pick and easy on money i just not want it to stick every paper that i put in the table
Very helpful video,thanks. I have a cookie slap 4 inches high and needs only 10 kg of epoxy to fill up. Do you believe with a good room temperature Flow cast will cure properly?
It depends on the pour thickness for whichever epoxy you use. Stick to the manufacturers recommendations!
Dear Jeff, thank you for the video.
I will do a river table and have a question about: seal the edges of the wood before poor or not? Some youtubers say you must do it otherwise comes bubbles from the wood in to the poor. Others says is nod needed. Its depends which epoxy ? I cant make a decision and will not fail with my first river table. Thanks in advance
Additive: with sealing the edges and without top coat, the epoxy bond only very thin with the sealing part of the epoxy. Its this correct?
The epoxy will bond with the wood either way. We don't always seal the edges before hand. But if youre worried about bubbles you can definitely do it as an extra step
Why do you use the ecopoxy instead of liquid glass for your deep pours over the recommended 1.75in for ecopoxy? Wouldn't it just be better to use the liquid glass since it says up to 4in?
That’s what I was wondering.
What would use for a restaurant table top finish
For restaurant tables, I would use Rubio Monocoat pure.
I am getting ready to pour a cutting/charcuterie board. It is 1and 3/16 inches thick. What would be your recommendation for a pour slightly over an inch. The 24 hour resin sounds great but I don't want to ruin a board just to save some time.
I would very much appreciate your opinion.Thanks
I would recommend the Ecopoxy FlowCast considering its deeper than 1”. There’s a chance the the SPR would flash cure at that thickness.
Are these only good for big projects like tables or wood? I’m new to resin epoxy so I only do very small projects like making heart molds or ash trays. I have wasted resin 😩😢
For an epoxy night light or lamp, what would you recommend? The night light/lamp will be done in two pours with some type of burl wood. This will be my first one and its a tester for me before i try a bigger project that i have in mind. Thank you
Selecting epoxy really comes down to the type of pour you're doing. The overall size, how thick or deep it is, how much time you have to let it cure. Some epoxies can only be poured 1/2" at a time, some up to 2" so it is hard to say. You could probably get away with a faster curing epoxy like SPR from the sounds of it, given it is a small night light.
What do use use for sealing wood before pouring? I recently did some inlays with Varathane epoxy and had the epoxy bleed into the wood and around the inlay. Do you use the same epoxy for sealing or any wood finish?
You can brush a coat of clear epoxy to prevent bleeding, or use some kind of spray urethane!
Which product would you recomend for a piece of lumber that will be outdoors in summer temp of 110° ingraving on piece about a 1/4 inch deep and the epoxy needs to be clear
Ecopoxy UVPoxy or a similar marine grade product.
Which of these products are UV stable? I'm running into yellowing with past projects. I'm considering using Polyaspartic products instead. Thank you for your time.
Unfortunately every epoxy is prone to yellowing, it just depends on time and uv exposure. Certain brands turn yellow much quicker than others. We recommend Ecopoxy UVpoxy for projects that need extra protection!
Will any of these products work for outside countertop where it will be in rain, snow, direct sun usage? If not, what would you recommend. Thanks
UvPoxy would be your best bet, but there may be other products available better suited for that exact use case. Casting epoxy typically yellows over time in direct sun while some brands have a higher resistance than others.
Does the Super Clear 24hour give nice patterns when it is curing or would you recommend swirling? If swirling what time would be best? Just ordered some live edge pieces from you and looking forward to trying out some new colors and the Super Clear! Thanks.
24 hour can create some nice patterns yes! You can also try swirling but you'll want a medium consistency before it goes hard and goey.
What is your experience with epoxy yellowing in sun I live in Scotland want to make a table that will be situated on front of a large glass windows thanks
It is important to use an appropriate epoxy such as Ecopoxy Uvpoxy in a case like that!
Hi. what is the best type of epoxy to use to seal the wood prior to a deep pour?
I use the 24hr cure Liquid Glass to seal my edges before pouring the deep pour.
So this might not be in y’all’s wheel house. Which one would you suggest for making micarta? I tried promise epoxy but it takes way to long and smells something awful
Flowcast SPR should perform well for something like that, or West Systems!
whats the best for a knot pop out on a edge of a board thats used as a rocker for a rocking horse
Any of the quicker curing epoxys such as uv poxy or west systems!
Very helpful video,thanks. I have a cookie slap 4 inches high and needs only 10 kg of epoxy to fill up. Do you believe with a good room temperature Flow cast will cure properly? 7:24
we don't recommend going over the recommended pour thickness. We have done it, but its always a gamble.
Hace you every sand and buff that epoxy spr back to a glossy finish?
Yes! You can sand it back to a mirror finish without any problems.
Have you ever used WiseBond epoxy?
No, we have not!
I have a large wood/ Epoxy Bar top that I am building, and it is just over 2 inches thick, 9 foot long and 3 feet wide. Can I use the Super Clear Thick Epoxy and pour it in 1-inch-thick increments? What is the best cure time? The temp of my shop is approximately 75 degrees.
For a pour like that, I would use Ecopoxy FlowCast. The cure time is 3 days and if possible, I would bring your shop temp down to 71 or even a few degrees lower if possible.
Outdoor wood bar top? What's the best product?
Spar or marine varnish! poly and epoxy can break down from high uv exposure.
Which Epoxy for water filter crack repair pressure say 100 psi
I have a flood coat epoxy issue that no one has been able to figure out so far, including several well-known brands.
I have a pretty extensive knowledge/use history of epoxy, and ALL process' have been done perfectly.
B Walnut wood, vac kiln dried to 7%, Major epoxy brand, seal coat/s (1oz/sf), flood coat (4oz/sf).
Sanded @ 220 between coats, cleaned with 91% alcohol, torched 3 times.
When leaving the piece to cure overnight it looked PERFECT, 24 hours later was cured, looked great on surface, but massive amounts of micro bubbles embedded.........here's the odd part.......The micro bubbles appeared on the entire piece EXCEPT the lines where the epoxy was originally poured from the bucket onto the piece.
WEIRD!!!
Again, all processes/steps were spot on, measuring/mixing/cleaning/temp control/humidity control/torching/etc.
WHY and how did bubbles appear AND, only form in the spots they did. Any Idea? This entire process from raw wood to final flood I have done twice now on the same piece......with same issue both times.
Are you de-gassing the epoxy after mixing? Sometimes a reaction can cause off-gassing while curing. Or something is contaminated along the way.
I'm having trouble getting the akfix in the pin holes. As soon as I sand it down the pin holes are back...what I'm I doing wrong? Also do you guys seal the edges of river boards? I had a board that the epoxy didn't adhere to. People on FB said to sand and seal.
Our technique is to let the resin/akfix drip into the pinholes vs filling them directly and potentially trapping air. Dab a little bit on the very edge and let it work its way into the voids! We finish in rubio monocoat, all over, every edge. Are you talking about a flood coat on your project?
@@jeffmackdesigns no, I'm talking about sealing the edges of the river boards before the epoxy is poured to help the epoxy adhere to the wood. I had a board come apart from the epoxy, it was obvious that the epoxy didn't adhere to the board.
@@nathandavis7424 The only time we've seen an epoxy to wood bond fail on a live edge is when the live edge wasn't cleaned up enough. By that, i mean removing all the bark and then sanding and roughing up the edge until you have exposed the sap wood for the epoxy to adhere to.
@@jeffmackdesigns it was a river set I purchased for you guys. As I was sanding it, it came apart. I wish I could attach a pic...but I was able to sand everything down and re epoxy it back together
Do you send to Cancun Mexico?
What brand do you recommend for cardboard?
The ones made of card and board!😆
I really appreciate your input if you can mail me information Iam trying to make a kitchen table with a black river and wood please Thanks 😊
You can find our contact info on our website, jeffmacksupply.com
I have tried to buy the Akfix 350 online. I have found it impossible to complete a transaction.
Unfortunately we do not carry Akfix 350, but we do stock the Akfix 340 mentioned in this video. Available here: jeffmacksupply.com/products/quick-setting-epoxy-5-minutes?variant=41221445812421
Do you sell the products in this video ? Or will you send links to them ?
If you visit the link in the description (www.jeffmacksupply.com) you can find all of the products used in this video.
I poured just over 2 inches and it super heated with liquid glass. Keep it at 2 or under.
Yes! We recommend following the manufacturer recommendations. It takes the perfect environment to pour thicker than recommended but it's always a risk.
I am attempting to build a giant mortar and pestle (more like a sledgehammer) out of a split eucalyptus trunk and its branches for making authentic Japanese mochi. The trunk is approximately 2'x16" and I want to fill the cracks with food safe epoxy once I have the general shape, then I'll grind and sand to finish. To make mochi it needs to be pounded and use hot water periodically. Is what I'm building going to poison customers or family members??? I've never seen an epoxy hammer for food before... hoping it's not an obvious thing as to why.
We wouldn't exactly recommend using epoxy for that job. Once cured, epoxy is strong but can break with impact.
What is the difference between the West System and Ecopoxy?
Ecopoxy offers many different types of epoxy for multiple purposes. The West Systems that we use is more of a fast curing shallow pour epoxy, good for cracks and voids.
@@jeffmackdesigns owww
In your opinion, If you want to connect a broken racket, what resin is better to use? The resin will later be combined with carbon fiber
@@jeffmackdesigns Do you know
How to order West System epoxy? I'm from Indonesia
Sound is a bit quiet..thanks
I don't see no Total Boat
We haven't many opportunities to work with Total Boat, but once we have more experience we'll be sure to let everyone know our opinion!
Bubbles, lets talk bubbles, Ive had many epoxy projects fail due to bubbles...........suggestions?
Torches. Deep pour epoxy, but do it in two pours. Coat the wood with a thin coat of epoxy before the main pour(prevents air that will otherwise escape from the wood). As an amateur, that all I got
These are great tips. You could try a vacuum chamber, but we understand those aren't available to everyone. Have you tried experimenting with different resins? Like Dutch said, a thinner viscosity resin such as a deep pour, pre-treating the wood and the use of a heat gun should help. Another thing to be mindful about is the way you pour. Aggressive pouring can lead to excessive bubbles.
Pour in one corner at a decent height, that helps to eliminate bubbles and let the epoxy push the bubbles out as it flows to the edges.
@@youflatscreentube Cheers!!
@@jeffmackdesigns thank you sir.....Where do I get a vacuum chamber big enough for a 5 gallon pail?
Lol cant get ANY info in Philippines,lol
That's unfortunate!
Great info!
One problem for me is location ( Sweden).
So my post will concern the need for affordable, good products outside US/Canada.
In the past I worked in renovation, so my experience using epoxy was for industrial flooring etc.
When starting to build customized items like closets, using epoxy was really a whole new experience.
Especially the fact that there are many epoxy products available that do not cut it - whether it is low VOC during curing, performance or what ever.
Ecopoxy has probably gotten better, not a great product when I tried it a few years ago.
I was recommended the Black Forest products from users. Seams like they have a great product.
But really, living in Europe, you are ' punished by location ' whit the added charges.
So for one project, a customized closet with wood and epoxy doors, I started looking for a solution.
For you guys in Europe, I can leave a recommendation for this product.
It is a company called Easy Composites.
It came out great, simple to use, (the general idea is for countertops), with a 3D effect.
It worked well for this project, and low VOC during curing.
They have other products as well of course, but have no experience using those yet.
www.easycomposites.eu/jaded-copper-resin-countertop-kit
Keep up the great work!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and providing a suggestion! GlassCast seems like it would be a solid product, but we have not had the chance to work with it.
@@jeffmackdesigns
Thank you for the fast reply Jeff!
And thank you if I can provide good, valid info.
Yes the company may be a provider of other good products as well.
Being in the business of delivering a product, like your self, - what ever that may be - that requires a lot of work before applying an epoxy product, may and can be, a gamble.
So atleast the product Ive used as described, provided a great result.
The biggest fear for me (and certainly for guys and girls in your business) is to NOT being able to deliver an excellent service and product.
Simply put - no matter where you are, good, safe and stable products, at a descent price, are needed for our work to be top-notch.
Very helpful video,thanks. I have a cookie slap 4 inches high and needs only 10 kg of epoxy to fill up. Do you believe with a good room temperature Flow cast will cure properly?
You shouldn't have any issues given you follow the product instructions. 4" thick could potentially cause some issues but ita hard to tell without seeing!