Thanks for the video, it really helped. I would only add that when you take the front and rear brackets off the pump, the bolt under the pulley is a short bolt, and the others (visible at12:51 on the video) are long bolts and nuts. I used an impact wrench and a closed end of a crescent wrench on those, because they're pretty tight and the nuts spin. That short bolt is really tight too, and it helps if someone holds the pump while you break the tension with your wrench. IMPORTANT: When placing the brackets onto the new pump, thread the mounting bolt through the receiving nut and tighten down the brackets carefully. That bolt needs to be able to thread in and out of the two brackets easily by hand when the brackets are tight, so check it often as you tighten your brackets down. If threading becomes difficult, your brackets are starting to misalign. In that case, you probably tightened one side too much before tightening the other side. Back off until it threads easily again, then tighten the other bolt a little. Keep tightening back and forth until the pump is ready to be mounted. Fail to do this, and your thread won't catch when you're putting the new pump on the car. Not knowing this cost me a day and a half of time and frustration. Figuring it out got the pump on in a couple minutes.
Great job I hate that top 12 mm bolt!!! I got my deep socket stuck against the body frame loosening that the other day what a pain. Thanks so much for posting now I understand how that allows the pump to pivot when tightening or loosening. Thanks again!!
Hey, Thanks for this video. It applies to my Sienna and Highlander. You should comment that the pulley is best to loosen while on the engine since it's nut is threaded on tight and the pulley sits on a splined shaft. Also noted you did not use any tubing on your "locking pliers" to prevent hose damage when crimping. Much cheaper precaution especially since these PS hoses are Very EXPENSIVE!!!! Thank you again Very good view from all angles.
Glad my video helped. You don't need to protect, the power steering feed hose from the locking pliers. there is nothing special or experience about that Hose, and you dont want to apply a lot of force, it doesn't take much to block it. You DO NOT want to crimp the high pressure hose at all. That hose is expensive and reinforced. You can loosen the center bolt for the pulley on the vehicle if it's easier for you. But i used an impact gun to remove it. If you don't have an impact gun, you can just stick a screw driver in there to keep the pulley from moving.
Note to all: two key installation points I learned the hard way after doing this job: the pump is dry of fluid and the air must be vacuumed out of the system. Also, the banjo bolt has a stopper on it that must be pinned to the pump bracket to help insure correct alignment. Great detailed video, but installation is not same as removal.
Very impressive video. Usually I have my own input on these fixes but it's candid. Hopefully I can find more videos of yours when I need it, and hopefully if I start making my own they'll be this good.
Really well done. This job is rare to find featured. I went to remove that 12 mm bolt in the slot and it could not give. i put lots of wd40, and nothing doing. then i gave it a levered wrench. I maneuvered a long lever up through the front, and with little effort felt the thing moving, and I thought "just that?" Ho bouy! My CRV socket, one I have used for more than 20 years, had broken and the bolt had not moved a bit. Then I got another socket and tried again without leverage. The bolt started chipping off. I believe I will have to cut the bolt off. Now I just need to find a replacement.
From 81 year old guy been designing hose products for a very very long time …1969 at Weatherhead Engineering..(we designed and supplied power steering ,AC AND brake hose for Ford ,GM,CHRYSLER , American MOTORS ,Volkswagon ) Do not ever crimp a rubber hose like that !!!..unless you are ready to replace the hose… many times you will crack the inner tube in the hose… I know …?I have done it!!!!! Old guy in north Ohio!!
I was going to try to do this repair myself, at home, but NOPE. I’m a big fella. I don’t have a lift, and as it is the 2005 Toyota Siennas LE ride pretty low already. The last thing I need is getting stuck under my vehicle and trying to bench press it off me 😆. I’ll pay a mechanic for the labor. Excellent video! Thank you!
I am working on my Toyota Camry 2006 and my power steering pump was leaking from the seal bearing behind the pulley and your video is help me a lot. Thank you for a great video detailed how to replace it and both of these cars use the same engine.
👋, thank you so much. I was thinking u made it look too easy but this was so detailed 👌 watch it twice then got up and do it just like that. I already knew the belt should flex between 30 and 90. Thank you
Thank you! A very helpful video - I was going to do this on my own as I am an experienced mechanic- but I send the under-vehicle jobs to the shop - no lift at home :( much appreciated!
My van is squealing bad on start up but calms down after a minute and the noise goes away. I removed the belt to the power steering pump and restarted the van and the noise is completely gone. I've already changed the belt and tightened it up good without success. I'm guessing it's the power steering pulley. I'm just going to change the whole thing since the pulley at Autozone is almost the same price as a whole new pump from Ebay. Does that sound about right?
Having a bit of trouble getting the banjo bolt to crack on a 99 sienna. I'm pulling on the P/S line and don't want to break it. Can I put some spot heat with a torch on that bolt to break it loose? I don't want to start a fire in my rental though. Good video
Thanka for the video helps alot. But now that i replace the pump the wheel works good but now i hear a constant noice like if it was static noice. Especially when im driving the faster im going the more i hear the noice. What can i possibly do to fix it .thanks
You used an aftermarket power steering pump didnt you. Buy an OEM power steering pump (yes its very expensive but you wont have to do the job twice) and return the aftermarket pump.
I can't say easy or hard, it depends on how mechanically inclined you are, plus it is a job that requires a lift. Jacking up the van and laying under it is going to be messy since you're going to deal with fluids. But how did you diagnosed the pump? Getting noise from the pump does not necessarily mean it has to be replaced.
@@landshass2849 I jacked up the car to check on pulley and serpentine belt everything was in working order.I found out there is leaking fluid from one of the pressure line.So Im taking to mechanic because there is rust on each end of the line.Thx for you reply
I'm wondering if anyone else has had difficulty attaching the pressurized hose to the pump during installation. The pressurized hose is stiff and about 5" inches too long. If you install the pump first, you can't line up the banjo bolt to go into the threaded hole squarely. If you install the pressurized hose/banjo bolt first before mounting the pump, you can't get the pump to stay in place while trying to screw the 12mm bolt in above the pump and barely can get it to hook and hang. Any advice is appreciated... I've been at this about 12 hours now because of this.
Wow, very nice video. Thank you. You did all that, and video recording too. I saw somewhere that before putting a pump back, just keep rocking the steering wheel back and forth until the oil stop running out the tube to empty the oil. Is that correct?
You sound like a super nice guy in the video. First time watching your tutorial. Your instruction is super clear. The sizes you mentioned helped me got all the things I needed, especially it was raining a bit outside, so I didn't get all the tool out there. After watching the video, I now have it out. Taking the top bolt was super hard for me. I had to chain two wrenches together to have enough leverage to pull it. The gap is tiny, probably enough for just a wrench. It's 12 mm. Yes, moving the steering wheel back and forth empty it. I know people may say need to have oil in it or it'll damage. I think moving like that doesn't hurt much, but it's just my hope.
Nam Nguyen you are correct that little bit of moving while it's dry won't cause any long term issues.no worries and thanks again. I try to make my how to videos as concise as possible. yep that top 12mm is a PITA to get out.
I would not use heat. Get more leverage or I have not tried this but maybe you can disconnect the line from the top and take the pump out with the line.
Thank You for this video. Very well done. It gave me an opportunity to look at it because a mechanic is telling us that it is cracked and leaking and therefore he needs to replace it, but when I saw your video I went and looked at it and it is dry. Can I ask what the average cost for a mechanic to do this job. We are being estimated at a price of $1,200. That is seeming very high to me. Also, this van only has 137,000 km on the odometer should the pump be worn out in such a short time?
I have everything disconnected on my 2007 Sienna but can't get the pressure switch off. The new pump shows a "barb" on the connection so it makes me believe you have to squeeze in the plug to release it but I can't find anything that pushes in so it will release. PLEASE HELP SOON The 2007 is similar but definitely different and easier except for this electrical connection.
I cant get a wrench on that top PS pump bolt. Ive tried various combinations of stubbies and cant find the right combination. What did you guys use. Horrible engineering.
Thanks for the video, it really helped. I would only add that when you take the front and rear brackets off the pump, the bolt under the pulley is a short bolt, and the others (visible at12:51 on the video) are long bolts and nuts. I used an impact wrench and a closed end of a crescent wrench on those, because they're pretty tight and the nuts spin. That short bolt is really tight too, and it helps if someone holds the pump while you break the tension with your wrench. IMPORTANT: When placing the brackets onto the new pump, thread the mounting bolt through the receiving nut and tighten down the brackets carefully. That bolt needs to be able to thread in and out of the two brackets easily by hand when the brackets are tight, so check it often as you tighten your brackets down. If threading becomes difficult, your brackets are starting to misalign. In that case, you probably tightened one side too much before tightening the other side. Back off until it threads easily again, then tighten the other bolt a little. Keep tightening back and forth until the pump is ready to be mounted. Fail to do this, and your thread won't catch when you're putting the new pump on the car. Not knowing this cost me a day and a half of time and frustration. Figuring it out got the pump on in a couple minutes.
I appreciate the views from the rear of the pump. I'm replacing mine now and your video was the only one that showed the rear side. Thanks!
EXCELLENT JOB !!!! this is the 3rd video I've found. Cut and dry. To the point. Makes sense! You can see. EXCELLENT !
EXCELLENT JOB OF EXPLANATION, CAMERA WORK, PROCESS.
THANK YOU!
EXCELLENT VIDEO...Different camera angles and textual graphics made all the difference. Thank you.
You are welcome
Thank you so much for sharing this! I love that you even told us what size each fastener was! Very helpful!
Great video. I couldn't find the one bolt hiding up over the top of the pulley and the video was a godsend. Thanks!
Great job I hate that top 12 mm bolt!!! I got my deep socket stuck against the body frame loosening that the other day what a pain. Thanks so much for posting now I understand how that allows the pump to pivot when tightening or loosening. Thanks again!!
Thank you so much for how clear this video was in showing every step you took.
Thanks for the video. It made the job doable and saved me money.
Hey, Thanks for this video. It applies to my Sienna and Highlander. You should comment that the pulley is best to loosen while on the engine since it's nut is threaded on tight and the pulley sits on a splined shaft. Also noted you did not use any tubing on your "locking pliers" to prevent hose damage when crimping. Much cheaper precaution especially since these PS hoses are Very EXPENSIVE!!!! Thank you again Very good view from all angles.
Glad my video helped.
You don't need to protect, the power steering feed hose from the locking pliers. there is nothing special or experience about that Hose, and you dont want to apply a lot of force, it doesn't take much to block it. You DO NOT want to crimp the high pressure hose at all. That hose is expensive and reinforced.
You can loosen the center bolt for the pulley on the vehicle if it's easier for you. But i used an impact gun to remove it. If you don't have an impact gun, you can just stick a screw driver in there to keep the pulley from moving.
Note to all: two key installation points I learned the hard way after doing this job: the pump is dry of fluid and the air must be vacuumed out of the system. Also, the banjo bolt has a stopper on it that must be pinned to the pump bracket to help insure correct alignment.
Great detailed video, but installation is not same as removal.
Can you please let me know about the banjo bolt having a stopper and the correct alignment? Thanks in advance.
@@joejung1601 stopper pins against the body. Don’t forget to bleed the air out… I ruined my first pump 😒
@@zachenos544 Thank you! I saw that the stopper has to touch the front bracket per service manual. I have 1MZ-FE engine (2001 Highlander AWD).
Very impressive video. Usually I have my own input on these fixes but it's candid. Hopefully I can find more videos of yours when I need it, and hopefully if I start making my own they'll be this good.
Q
Thanks man! That's great you took the time to show ppl like me how to change the pump. Much appreciated!!
Thank you very much for the video!
It worked for me on a 2004 Toyota Sienna LE. 3.3 FWD.
Thank you for your demonstration, really help a lot. ,❤
Really well done. This job is rare to find featured. I went to remove that 12 mm bolt in the slot and it could not give. i put lots of wd40, and nothing doing. then i gave it a levered wrench. I maneuvered a long lever up through the front, and with little effort felt the thing moving, and I thought "just that?" Ho bouy! My CRV socket, one I have used for more than 20 years, had broken and the bolt had not moved a bit. Then I got another socket and tried again without leverage. The bolt started chipping off. I believe I will have to cut the bolt off. Now I just need to find a replacement.
From 81 year old guy been designing hose products for a very very long time …1969 at Weatherhead Engineering..(we designed and supplied power steering ,AC AND brake hose for Ford ,GM,CHRYSLER , American MOTORS ,Volkswagon )
Do not ever crimp a rubber hose like that !!!..unless you are ready to replace the hose… many times you will crack the inner tube in the hose… I know …?I have done it!!!!!
Old guy in north Ohio!!
I was going to try to do this repair myself, at home, but NOPE. I’m a big fella. I don’t have a lift, and as it is the 2005 Toyota Siennas LE ride pretty low already. The last thing I need is getting stuck under my vehicle and trying to bench press it off me 😆. I’ll pay a mechanic for the labor.
Excellent video! Thank you!
Nice job of explaining this tedious job. Looks like a pain in the butt to be doing this one in the dirt. May have to hire it out!!
Thank you very much!
Video experts and good handyman!
1000 like.
There is one thing to know what you are doing and entirely other to explain it. This video is a 5 stars + on both accounts. Thank you.
Thanks for this! You answered all of my questions in a well made vid.
awesome!
Thanks for taking the time to make this, extremely helpful!
your welcome
Best repair video I have ever seen. Perfect! I have seen a lot of them.
Thank you so much your camera work is very good and your explanation is excellent.
Really appreciate it!!
I am working on my Toyota Camry 2006 and my power steering pump was leaking from the seal bearing behind the pulley and your video is help me a lot. Thank you for a great video detailed how to replace it and both of these cars use the same engine.
👋, thank you so much. I was thinking u made it look too easy but this was so detailed 👌 watch it twice then got up and do it just like that. I already knew the belt should flex between 30 and 90. Thank you
Thanks for the video, which is very helpful. Clear explanations.
Well made and detailed guide! Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Great vid. You should make more, your vids are really easy to follow.
Very helpful. Great step-by-step instructions.
I appreciate you and your videos bro, keep it up!
Seth Daniels thanks Seth. Be sure to subscribe and share.
@autofixpal you welcome man, I appreciate the depth you make your vids. Ya earned my subscription! Good luck brother!
2:49 Jeopardy music LOL
may favorite part of this video..lol
Nice video. Thank you.
Great video. Thank you for making it so easy to understand. I am no a mechanic but I think I will be able to at least help.
Great video!!
My ES330 pump is now whinning after replacing leaking return line hose. I might go to a bypass loop if it goes bust the pump.
Great video. Very detailed and on point. Thank you!
Excellent vid. Thank you. I have one question, where does it usually leak from? The hoses or the sensor?
Excellent video
What about putting it back in? Don't the lines need to be bled to get all the air out?
the pump will pump all the air out on its own. Just let it idle for a few minutes. If you have a cheap aftermarket pump this may take longer.
@@Autofixpals thanks!
Excellent step by step video... Thank you !!!
Excellent video. Thx!
Thanks for doing this video !
Your welcome!
Thank you! A very helpful video - I was going to do this on my own as I am an experienced mechanic- but I send the under-vehicle jobs to the shop - no lift at home :( much appreciated!
This video is amazing. Well done and thank you.
excellent video. phd of repair videos. jeopardy music interesting touch. just curious how you knew the pump needed to be replaced.
OEM pump is 4 or 5 times the price of aftermarket. Is it worth the difference?
Great Video, Thanks!
Your Welcome
My van is squealing bad on start up but calms down after a minute and the noise goes away. I removed the belt to the power steering pump and restarted the van and the noise is completely gone. I've already changed the belt and tightened it up good without success. I'm guessing it's the power steering pulley. I'm just going to change the whole thing since the pulley at Autozone is almost the same price as a whole new pump from Ebay. Does that sound about right?
does it the same as sienna 2004 ? thanks
Nice job ..... really good video .... thanks for posting it.
Excelent video.... thanks you
Great video and a big help, thanks!
Having a bit of trouble getting the banjo bolt to crack on a 99 sienna. I'm pulling on the P/S line and don't want to break it.
Can I put some spot heat with a torch on that bolt to break it loose? I don't want to start a fire in my rental though.
Good video
thank you appreciate it a lot im doing one now
make sure you subscribe, and share thats the best way to show appreciation.
Thanka for the video helps alot. But now that i replace the pump the wheel works good but now i hear a constant noice like if it was static noice. Especially when im driving the faster im going the more i hear the noice. What can i possibly do to fix it .thanks
You used an aftermarket power steering pump didnt you. Buy an OEM power steering pump (yes its very expensive but you wont have to do the job twice) and return the aftermarket pump.
Than you very much you gave me a great help!!!
I suggest looking at the reservoir has a filter in it that will stop up
2007 -2010 are slightly different since they have a different engine.
Is it easy to do?My pump went on my 07 last night after replacing serpentine belt.what coincidence
I can't say easy or hard, it depends on how mechanically inclined you are, plus it is a job that requires a lift. Jacking up the van and laying under it is going to be messy since you're going to deal with fluids. But how did you diagnosed the pump? Getting noise from the pump does not necessarily mean it has to be replaced.
@@landshass2849 I jacked up the car to check on pulley and serpentine belt everything was in working order.I found out there is leaking fluid from one of the pressure line.So Im taking to mechanic because there is rust on each end of the line.Thx for you reply
How do you adjust the power steering belt? I followed everything but I can't seem to figure out how to properly put tension on the belt.
How much does it normally cost for a mechanic to do a power steering pump replacement?
I'm wondering if anyone else has had difficulty attaching the pressurized hose to the pump during installation. The pressurized hose is stiff and about 5" inches too long. If you install the pump first, you can't line up the banjo bolt to go into the threaded hole squarely. If you install the pressurized hose/banjo bolt first before mounting the pump, you can't get the pump to stay in place while trying to screw the 12mm bolt in above the pump and barely can get it to hook and hang. Any advice is appreciated... I've been at this about 12 hours now because of this.
Wow, very nice video. Thank you. You did all that, and video recording too.
I saw somewhere that before putting a pump back, just keep rocking the steering wheel back and forth until the oil stop running out the tube to empty the oil. Is that correct?
Nam Nguyen I have never heard of that but I'm sure it should help empty the system out. thanks for watching.
You sound like a super nice guy in the video. First time watching your tutorial. Your instruction is super clear. The sizes you mentioned helped me got all the things I needed, especially it was raining a bit outside, so I didn't get all the tool out there. After watching the video, I now have it out. Taking the top bolt was super hard for me. I had to chain two wrenches together to have enough leverage to pull it. The gap is tiny, probably enough for just a wrench. It's 12 mm. Yes, moving the steering wheel back and forth empty it. I know people may say need to have oil in it or it'll damage. I think moving like that doesn't hurt much, but it's just my hope.
Nam Nguyen you are correct that little bit of moving while it's dry won't cause any long term issues.no worries and thanks again.
I try to make my how to videos as concise as possible. yep that top 12mm is a PITA to get out.
Auto Fix Pal will this be the same process for a 2009??
my camry's power straring pump was always wel with oil like that.....but power steerin fluid doesnt go low....problem was cam seal
the Haynes manual says 1998-2010... which is hard to believe, but if the book says that i'm assuming this will work for a 1999
I would not use heat. Get more leverage or I have not tried this but maybe you can disconnect the line from the top and take the pump out with the line.
Thank You for this video. Very well done. It gave me an opportunity to look at it because a mechanic is telling us that it is cracked and leaking and therefore he needs to replace it, but when I saw your video I went and looked at it and it is dry. Can I ask what the average cost for a mechanic to do this job. We are being estimated at a price of $1,200. That is seeming very high to me. Also, this van only has 137,000 km on the odometer should the pump be worn out in such a short time?
+Jaegar Croft your welcome
+Jaegar Croft it's possible. But if there is no noises coming from it or no leaks. Then it is likely to be just fine.
Great camera work. Can I do it without being under 2 tons of metal? lol
Dont think its possible.
Ok, I'll figure out how to get under it. thanks
You can remove banjo bolt from top but have to remove exhaust manifold
Ahahahah, I removed it with ease because I removed all of the timing belt stuff first. After having done that, it's right there from the top.
Best tutorial, Thanks. T
Shake it until it comes off! That's what she said BWAHAHAHA! Thanks for the video, dude!!
Thanks for the video but the most important part of the job is how to take the top bolt off and you just skipped that.
Is the same for Toyota Sienna 2000
Good video...thanks
Thanks! 👍
Your welcome.
Is 05 the same procedure as 07?
I have everything disconnected on my 2007 Sienna but can't get the pressure switch off. The new pump shows a "barb" on the connection so it makes me believe you have to squeeze in the plug to release it but I can't find anything that pushes in so it will release. PLEASE HELP SOON The 2007 is similar but definitely different and easier except for this electrical connection.
Very helpful thanks
Excellent!!!
Thank you.
You should have showed how to remove the pulley
I cant get a wrench on that top PS pump bolt. Ive tried various combinations of stubbies and cant find the right combination. What did you guys use. Horrible engineering.
1/4 ratchet with deep 12mm socket
the easy wayis to disconnect the bracket on back then slid it out
Why is the music like beat the clock interruption
👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
What's with the jeopardy music
Visa versa...
too much explanation to boring
I NEVER SAW HOW U REPLACE O CHANGE THE POWER S/PUMP ????????
Excellent video, clear video and explanation. Thank you for sharing this!