Jian Kim will always be my favourite - such a beautiful climber - always seems so calm and the way she climbs is inspiring. And after a baby!! respect.
i think it's ok in the qualifiers to have split screens, since there are way more athletes to cover, but in a world championship final it just doesn't feel right. the climbers as well as the viewers deserve a focused view on each and every attempt... my twenty cents
I have never watched this before but it came up in my feed and now I’m obsessed! What an awesome sport and so entertaining to watch. These people are amazing
Loved the style of the routes and the twists in the comp. Also great commentary with Shauna. Would just wish you would also comment a bit more on Janja's and Ai's moves and what they are exactly doing (better?) instead of focusing mostly on the personal aspects of theirs. Most people here would also be climbers and would be interested in beta insight I would suppose. Thanks a lot for your good work!
Not all of us. I have no background in the sport, but I came across it when looking at the Tokuyo Olympics on TV. Have been looking at it on RUclips on and off again. For viewers like me, basic info is quite informative.
They were starting two at a time, so I guess splitscreen is kinda the only way to display it. But I agree, having them boulder one by one is way nicer to watch
@@Algernop_Kriegerbecause this video is edited down anyways they could have edited it in such a way to show boulders individually. Of course that is still difficult to do.
Great upload - I was looking forward to this. And great edit. Generally I think the camera angles improved, but man those angles on W3 were a freaking disgrace.
because it's a completely different scoring system since the olimpics will be combined as well. there are two zones, 5 and 10 points then 25 if you top (they don't add up tho, 25 is the max amount of points per boulder) so the box fill in after each zone and then top.
@@DonkeyClimbMediaThank you so much for your work. Are there anyway we could make a donation? Edit: The donation link could be found at the "About" section of the channel. I've just donated, thank you again!
Я хренею. Извиняюсь. Другой эмоции не подберу. Не девчонки, а чудо! Восхищаясь, восторгаюсь, завидую и переживаю за каждую. Одним словом, хренею! :-) :-) :-)
I'm new to this sport. Why are the challenges plastic and smooth? I thought it was going to simulate a realistic climb wall. Or maybe they are textured and the camera doesn't capture it? Impressive regardless
That was an amazing WC all 3 comps have been amazing 💪🏻☺️ loved having Shauna in the commentary box and amazing how Ai did manage to even beat an amazing Janja and qualify for the Olympics! Also Kinda glad to see Brooke outperform Grossman to be honest
Didn't like the split screen climbing. Felt like I didn't really see either climber climb properly. At one point you had Janja and Miho climbing really exciting climbs and didn't feel like I saw either. When you have 2 of the best athletes on the stage at the same time and can't watch either seems like a waste of time. Plus I like watching 1 climber work out different solutions over the 4 minutes available. It made the scoring system super weird as they were on different climbs. Don't get the new format.
The two athlete rule is terrible. There are Gold, Silver, and Bronze medals there should be at least three athletes. Why should the third best athlete have to stay home and watch on TV. It makes the Olympics a superficial competition.
The original use of the term beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format.[3] According to some sources, Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends. According to other sources, it was actually a play on words, as Mileski would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?"
I think it's about time Matt Groom stepped down from commentating and let Shauna take over (if she wanted to take on that role of course). I love Matt's enthusiasm, which is why I enjoyed watching some of the EpicTV content, but he comes out with some daft, repetitive and completely pointless phrases sometimes: "he/she gets stood up", "is that a knee bar???", and describing difficult moves as "thuggy", etc. And often mispronouncing the athletes names, and not knowing if a boulder attempt was a flash or not. I hate to piss on his chips, but after hearing Shauna commentating on a few videos recently, it's been a breath of fresh air, with interesting points and analysis, and a number of times with her contradicting some of Matt's babble.
I want to know what evil genius designed these walls. I climbed trees at age four. I climbed the Swiss Alps at 15. I can tell these women are WAY better than me. So who figured out to give them such problems?
This sport looks stupid and I had to stop watching 20 minutes in. If most of these "professional" athletes" can't complete the first two easy sections, what's the point?
None of the sections are supposed to be easy. It’s ideal if for each problem around half fall and around half succeed, but it can also be ok if only 1 succeeds and everyone else fails. You just want to separate the pack.
If all of the climbers can complete the boulders then it's too easy. You only want a few of them to finish the wall in order to highlight who's truly incredible.
I’m afraid not. The climber only have 4 minutes for every boulder problem independently. I would be an interesting concept of competition the one you suggested 😁
Jian Kim will always be my favourite - such a beautiful climber - always seems so calm and the way she climbs is inspiring. And after a baby!! respect.
Great upload - I was looking forward to this. And great edit. Generally I think the camera angles improved, but man those angles on W3 were a freaking disgrace.
Men's final is available here: ruclips.net/video/tUjOWWpM37I/видео.html
like always you got the timetibles in the description box. Enjoy!!
Jian Kim's lead climb was so impressive, the way she looked in control the whole way through and the precision with which she hit every hold 😮
So happy to see Ai qualifying.
Wow that Lead from Kim was impressive, she had perfect pace to not waste any energy. Really shows her experience
Shauna was so damn good on the commentary.
Jian Kim will always be my favourite - such a beautiful climber - always seems so calm and the way she climbs is inspiring. And after a baby!! respect.
Jain Kim is also my all time favorite climber. Unique style and elegance ❤
Janja is a legend, but Jian Kim’s climb in the end was so impressive and easy!)
Jesus, Janja is just an otherworldly machine. Her strength and coordination is beyond human comprehension.
omg, I'm so happy for Ai!
i think it's ok in the qualifiers to have split screens, since there are way more athletes to cover, but in a world championship final it just doesn't feel right. the climbers as well as the viewers deserve a focused view on each and every attempt... my twenty cents
I have never watched this before but it came up in my feed and now I’m obsessed! What an awesome sport and so entertaining to watch. These people are amazing
Janja is a monster
so great to have Shauna in the commentary box. Stasa gets serious competition 🙂
Kim is 35 years old, it’s incroyable.👍
Loved the style of the routes and the twists in the comp. Also great commentary with Shauna.
Would just wish you would also comment a bit more on Janja's and Ai's moves and what they are exactly doing (better?) instead of focusing mostly on the personal aspects of theirs. Most people here would also be climbers and would be interested in beta insight I would suppose.
Thanks a lot for your good work!
Not all of us. I have no background in the sport, but I came across it when looking at the Tokuyo Olympics on TV. Have been looking at it on RUclips on and off again. For viewers like me, basic info is quite informative.
I do not like split screens, I prefer to watch athletes one by one.
They were starting two at a time, so I guess splitscreen is kinda the only way to display it. But I agree, having them boulder one by one is way nicer to watch
Nobody cares. Zoom in and get over it 😅
@@ForrestGumpWRthere’s got to be a kinder way of putting that
@@Algernop_Kriegerbecause this video is edited down anyways they could have edited it in such a way to show boulders individually. Of course that is still difficult to do.
I get ut, but this way the athletes habe significantly less downtime, so I think it's a worthwhile tradeoff.
Janja is the best, i really love to look how she climbs
Damn the ending of Kim's lead got me sweaty hands. That was intense phew haha
absolutely my favorite format i just love the variety both in climbs but also in climbers
Great cut once again, big thanks for this!
I love watching climbing comps but they can be very long and this makes it more manageable
Is this combined event and point system going to be the format for the Olympics?
I quite like it.
sad to see brook falling a little bit early on lead :(
Yes 😢😢! I rooted for her becoming top 3.
That was so devastating
I really hope she gets an Olympic ticket, she really deserves it. What a legend
Love this format
Great video, thank you for your work
gracias amigo. hope greece is fun :)
Superb athleticism on display. Great show all round.
Great Comp. Thanks for posting it up.
That was incredible, congratulation to all
thanks, really nice cut
So rooting for Brooke 😢!!! Almost there.
thanks for the video
Great upload - I was looking forward to this. And great edit. Generally I think the camera angles improved, but man those angles on W3 were a freaking disgrace.
sos un capo 👏👏👏👏
Very impressive.
I really hoped that Oriane would have done better
i love this vid Oriane, miho, and jessica
Janja is really on a different level, she could compete with the men and won
finallyyyy thank you donkeeyy
Another incredibly well made video, with some awesome climbing! Great work guys, incredible job.
This is my new favorite shit to watch.
Holy shit
Great video as always ! I only watch this one and is it a real delight.
Quick question, why are the full box and half box gone for the score ?
because it's a completely different scoring system since the olimpics will be combined as well. there are two zones, 5 and 10 points then 25 if you top (they don't add up tho, 25 is the max amount of points per boulder) so the box fill in after each zone and then top.
Massive props to the editor(s) for this video, it's so hard to edit a competition like this into something cohesive while also effective in time
That jump from Ana @ 6:06 was wild!!! She's definitely one to watch.
Thanks for this, when can we expect the males' final?
I will try to get it out by tomorrow morning the latest 😄 thanks for waiting
@@DonkeyClimbMediaThank you so much for your work. Are there anyway we could make a donation?
Edit: The donation link could be found at the "About" section of the channel. I've just donated, thank you again!
Thanks so much for the comment and the donation! 😊
Men's final is available here: ruclips.net/video/tUjOWWpM37I/видео.html
like always you got the timetibles in the description box. Enjoy!!
This is way better than women's bowling 💯
Just one climber at a time is best. Split screen ruins the tension.
잔자는 그냥 넘사벽이네
모리는 상대적으로 작은 신체인데도 3등
신발 보호대는 뭐... ㅋ
18 golds and 91% tops feels insane
Go brooke!
Where can I find an uncut version of this?
Only if you watch it live, because the rights belong to the IFSC, but its allowed for others to upload cut versions
..... 😊 Was that Kilian Fischhuber cheering on Jessie?
how long has this scoring system been in use? interesting
Its been on use for a couple of years, first for the combination of speed, boulder and lead, later on for just these two disciplines
51:11 JANJA G (SLO)
When Ai prettey much face planted on the last boulder damn that scared me😅
My hands and feet are solo g wet watching the lead.
pretty good but quite sad that a lot of commentary is cut up
Я хренею. Извиняюсь. Другой эмоции не подберу. Не девчонки, а чудо! Восхищаясь, восторгаюсь, завидую и переживаю за каждую. Одним словом, хренею! :-) :-) :-)
И я, особенно когда Янья лезет, это что-то невероятное!
Trop de changements de caméras...
Honestly I don't like the format of two climbers going at the same time
I'm new to this sport. Why are the challenges plastic and smooth? I thought it was going to simulate a realistic climb wall. Or maybe they are textured and the camera doesn't capture it? Impressive regardless
Well, come to the bouldering gym in your town and try. They are quite sharp and textured. Your fingers will feel it.
That was an amazing WC all 3 comps have been amazing 💪🏻☺️ loved having Shauna in the commentary box and amazing how Ai did manage to even beat an amazing Janja and qualify for the Olympics! Also Kinda glad to see Brooke outperform Grossman to be honest
So unnecessary to be rude towards Natalia. Especially using her last name when you've used all the other women's first names.
Why everyone in the comments calling Jain Jian. It's Ja-in.
On the last, Nonaka lost some energy because the rope was TOO tight
Jain Kim has the highest shoulder to hip width ratio I’ve ever seen
so much of the climbing is cut out this is frustrating.
1:45:22 wtf is Tim Cook there.
The female announcer sounds just like the announcer from the show in the 90s Nickelodeon Guts. Brings back so many memories.
Didn't like the split screen climbing. Felt like I didn't really see either climber climb properly. At one point you had Janja and Miho climbing really exciting climbs and didn't feel like I saw either. When you have 2 of the best athletes on the stage at the same time and can't watch either seems like a waste of time. Plus I like watching 1 climber work out different solutions over the 4 minutes available. It made the scoring system super weird as they were on different climbs. Don't get the new format.
GOSH!!! At minute 31, I thought the judges had MISCALCULATED on Rabouou's score. I'm rooting for the top two girls
The two athlete rule is terrible. There are Gold, Silver, and Bronze medals there should be at least three athletes. Why should the third best athlete have to stay home and watch on TV. It makes the Olympics a superficial competition.
ruclips.net/video/DkHDLYPa71o/видео.htmlsi=umINHAaVYKUNlliQ 1:37:43 what’s that sound? Thought it was mine
Janja is maybe the best in the world??? Didn't she proved time and time again that she is the best.
Why is meta called beta in climbing?
The original use of the term beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format.[3] According to some sources, Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends. According to other sources, it was actually a play on words, as Mileski would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?"
Thanks for the helpful answer
@@keyzerschorschei2481
Indoors??? At the Olympics they do it outside In a parc
Dpesn't seem fair for the Lead clinbing to just GIVE 50 points right away. These are TOP CLIMBERS, and Bouldering is much harder
I think it's about time Matt Groom stepped down from commentating and let Shauna take over (if she wanted to take on that role of course). I love Matt's enthusiasm, which is why I enjoyed watching some of the EpicTV content, but he comes out with some daft, repetitive and completely pointless phrases sometimes: "he/she gets stood up", "is that a knee bar???", and describing difficult moves as "thuggy", etc. And often mispronouncing the athletes names, and not knowing if a boulder attempt was a flash or not. I hate to piss on his chips, but after hearing Shauna commentating on a few videos recently, it's been a breath of fresh air, with interesting points and analysis, and a number of times with her contradicting some of Matt's babble.
Джани это уже легенда, живая молодая лазающая легенда
вообще-то её Янья зовут...
@@user-sr6ov8iu8o Он про сказочника Джани Радари говорит )
I was here. Amen.
#menofculture.
I don't agree that Ai Mori got third. She barely did well in the Boldering.
But Go CHECK!!!!! Well done!!
I want to know what evil genius designed these walls. I climbed trees at age four. I climbed the Swiss Alps at 15. I can tell these women are WAY better than me. So who figured out to give them such problems?
Is there drug testing in this sport? Where does such a gigantically wide chest come from?
Why is the formatting so so bad? You need to understand that you're in the entertainment business; no other sport shows simultaneous activity..
sorry... But am i the only one think the lady commentator talks too much?...😅
Yes u r the only one
This sport looks stupid and I had to stop watching 20 minutes in. If most of these "professional" athletes" can't complete the first two easy sections, what's the point?
None of the sections are supposed to be easy. It’s ideal if for each problem around half fall and around half succeed, but it can also be ok if only 1 succeeds and everyone else fails. You just want to separate the pack.
If all of the climbers can complete the boulders then it's too easy. You only want a few of them to finish the wall in order to highlight who's truly incredible.
He said Orianne is really good at putting things behind 😂
Help me get this rule: if a boulderer tops the second and she still have time left, it should be possible to finish the first one if not topped 🫡
I’m afraid not. The climber only have 4 minutes for every boulder problem independently. I would be an interesting concept of competition the one you suggested 😁
@@DonkeyClimbMediaI think it's 6 minutes per boulder, and you are right, it is not accumulable.
Maybe was a bit confused in this combined format but 6 min is always for the lead climbing and 4 min for every boulder.
Jian Kim will always be my favourite - such a beautiful climber - always seems so calm and the way she climbs is inspiring. And after a baby!! respect.
Great upload - I was looking forward to this. And great edit. Generally I think the camera angles improved, but man those angles on W3 were a freaking disgrace.
Honestly I don't like the format of two climbers going at the same time