I think my wife has one of those! I can't be sure, but when I'm downstairs watching football, I hear that same noise! I never knew she had an interest in locks, thanks for bringing this to light bill!
Finally I figured out what that noise was. Now I just need to figure out why my gf is bumping locks with an electric tool in the shower, it does not seem safe.
So basically it's just a reciprocating saw that looks enough the part for you to convince someone that you're an actual locksmith. If the blanks were made out of M42 HSS, you could just grind the pins past the sheer line and get an open on anything.
I'm not worried about that pick gun being loud, I already lost most of my hearing on that intro. But thanks for the warning anyway. Looks like that thing is just eating the pins seeing how much metal is flying out of the locks. I wonder if the keys will even work after such savage pin-destruction.
Bill put it in a vice that simulates that it's in a door because when it's in your hand your hand is vibrating while the tool is vibrating and it's not able to really bump I give it another shot with it in a vice I don't think this is a good example of this tool because locks are indoors not in your hand
Mr Fender bender Weird! I don't ever recall seeing padlocks hard mounted in doors. Have I been using them wrong my entire life? The only thing that is guaranteed more than the sun rising tomorrow is someone whining and/or crying about the intro of Bill's videos. Plus it's usually done in a rude manner. If one does not know by now that an intro & video are going to start by the action of clicking on said video, then you have bigger issues to worry about!
Do R/C! Yep, I totally agree. Some of “Newton’s laws” energy was lost in BB’s chubby hands. Considering the style of attack, I Definitely would have went with a solid base/vise for this.
Your meat mitts are absorbing the vibration and causing the pins to react slower... Put it in a vice. You own a vice, why didn't you put the locks in it?
Bill, you should retry this test with the locks secured in a heavy/stationary vise. When attempting to hold the locks, your left wrist is effectively dampning alot of energy in this scenario.
Would be interesting to use a transparent lock and a high speed camera to see what those tools do with the pins. Could be that pins have their own resonance frequency at which they start to bounce, so picking the right speed of the tool would be important.
I think you're not allowing the key bit to insert fully when you're using the gun. I also think perhaps by holding in your hand, you're dampening the forces which would otherwise bump the pins. Try a re-review with the locks either clamped in a vice, or clamped to some timber for support. And try having the bit fully inserted so it bounces off the lock barrel rear limit.
You should use it with a vice you can see that your hand can't hold it steady with your hand . the vice will simulate it in the door so it won't jiggle. that way the pins take all of the shock and not the whole lock.
the point of the comment was that the tool is really a saw in the first place and the steel "blades" ripped out parts of the brass locks throughout the whole video.
I demand high speed video of that cutaway smiley, specifically the cutaway to monitor pins, just to see the chaos going on inside. Edit: If i buy this and have problems, im sure my ol lady could find a purpose for it.
Hi Bill. Your review of this tool is probably accurate on dimpel locks, but using regulare bumpkeys works fine, in fact very good. So good in fact that when I was learning to use the tool, I filed down some of the teeth on the key, because it the tool is so fast that using a regulare bumpkey, can be counter-productive. I have tried it on dimpel locks, there the tool is for some reason not so effective, also used bogota picks on it for raking, this also works. I think what you did "wrong" was holding the lock in your hand, when I do that, the time it takes to open a lock increases a lot. (When holding the lock in your hand. ( I think ) You make some kind of "occilating-counter-spring effect" that nullifies the tool - also saw that your grip was over the turn-part of the lock) But what the tool does really good is wearing a lock down, real fast. So because of this I filed and polished the keys I use in it, also oiling the lock that I want to open) I Love your reviews, so sorry about this feedback. I think your negative result was just lack of experience with the tool.
The tension-part of the tool is the tricky thing. I feel that it is a to "long turn" on it. This make using it a lot more difficult. I can also add, when I cut a horizontal groove on the front of the lock, to fit a tensioner as an experiment. It was a lot easier and faster to open the lock. (but the tensionpart also then is somewhat tricky, I have thought of trying to do something to it, to make a heavier and shorter turn but havent got around to do it)
You might have better luck with the lock tight in a vice - i think a lot of the vibration energy is transferring to the housing rather than just the pins...so you are not getting the full 'bumping' of the pins.
I wonder what the locks looks like on the inside after that treatment. Does the keys still open the locks? (and yes, send this "lock hammer" to AvE or BigClive for teardown!)
Pardon me if it's discussed near the end of the vid as I didn't watch it all. But, I feel that handholding the locks is defeating the intent of that bump gun. Most of the momentum is being transferred into your hand instead of into the pins. I bet you'd have good luck with that if the locks were in a heavy vice, thus keeping the body of the lock stationary.
The problem you're having is because the lock is in your hand. For the lock pick to work correctly it needs the lock to be held rigid allowing the pins to vibrate better. Redo this video with the locks in a vice or a door. I will bet you that 90% of them will open with no problem at all.
I assume the angle determines the amount of torque being exterted on the lock. Jack it over too far and you bind all the pins. No different than regular picking.
That is very true,I have had locks bind on me all because I used too much tension.It's like when picking security pins,you have to gauge the tension and in most cases back up off the tension or start over to successfully pick locks containing security pins.
@@NelsonE50 Yes, as I stated in my comments the tension-part of the tool is the tricky part with this tool. Also noticed that Bill used nearly zero tension on it
I would try to get some motoroil inside the lock. The viscosity of the oil will delay the spring/keypin action so it will take longer for the lock to return to a locked position.
Looks like strong, versatile tool. Adding own bumpkeys is a great option. Since all pins must be engaged simultaneously, practice a bit is necessary. Nice video trough.
I'm surprised you didn't try the regular keys again to see if the metal shavings were bad damage, or even look at the bump key to see if it looked damaged
No thank you. I can pick it faster than that without damaging the lock. Thank you for showing me why not to buy this. I truly do appreciate your channel for everything it has taught me
I have one of these, I put a dimple lock in a small vice and worked from there. The problem is there are a few similar key profiles. I found one that worked after trying 3 others and then it opened quickly. But boy was it noisy and everything vibrated off my table.
Try filing down a teeth or two (o.a.) on the bumpkey. I had the same experience when I was learning to use this tool and but when I filed it down to f.ex. 2-3 teeth on a 6pin key. But the power is a important key, Bill uses to much, with not enough tension
I imagine part of the issue you're encountering is due to your hand absorbing a lot of the kinetic energy. I would suspect better results in a more normal application.
Good theory, but it isn't supported by the facts. It made no difference whatsoever. The gun puts out so much energy that there is no way my hand could absorb enough to make a difference. Just to check, I used a vise on the same locks. No difference. We got those results because the tool simply doesn't work on locks with wide variations in bitting, just as I said in the video.
Try lubricating the locks before attempting to bump the locks open.New locks are tight and lubricating the locks will help the pins move more freely.Old locks also become tight because of dirt build up over time,in both new and old locks lubricating the locks is always a smart idea.I saw several videos using that electric dimple lock bump gun and in the several videos that I have seen the person using the tool always starts off at a low speed then gradually increases the speed until the lock finally opens.As for the noise level of the electric dimple lock bump gun I do not see that as anything to be overly concerned about unless of course you are breaking and entering.I am a licensed locksmith and as such I always carry my locksmith license with me and I will never open any lock for anyone unless the person needing a lock opened has proper identification.Dimple locks also utilize security pins so practice is a must just like with regular lock picking.The one thing I did not see you do in the video was to reset the tension before you tried to bump the locks open again.Resetting the pins is sometimes necessary in order to successfully open locks.As for the variations in bitting that is certainly true which is why it is necessary to obtain bump keys which will correspond to the locks to be opened and modify said bump keys to work with the electric dimple lock bump gun.In my opinion and from personal experience the electric dimple lock bump gun is a Godsend because it will save time and money opening dimple locks such as multilocks.I have had success bumping open multilock cylinders and I know that once I buy one of those electric dimple lock bump guns I will have even greater success opening the multilock cylinders.I do not own a multilock key machine but I have friends that are licensed locksmiths that own multilock key machines and will cut multilock bump keys for me because I am a licensed locksmith.For those of you that are not licensed locksmiths I would say don't bother buying this electric dimple lock bump gun unless you are a licensed locksmith and you have locksmith friends that can and will cut the necessary bump keys for you.
@@NelsonE50 I agree, if you read my comments, you`ll see my personal experience with the tool and what Bill did wrong. (But this was simply just lack of experience using it)
Needs a rubberized stopper that you put against the lock face and a spring loaded join so you can turn the tool and hold it there, trying to hold the torsion just right whilst holding the tool seems like it would be a pain.
The tool does have a "spring loaded join" for applying tension either to the left or the right,the idea of a rubberized stopper is not a bad idea though.I think that since Bill just got the tool he wasn't practiced enough with it.Even though the tool is electric proper tension is always necessary and takes practice,especially when trying to pick security pins.Bill has good tension control from what I have seen in his other videos,the tool is new to him so let us give both Bill and the electric bump tool the benefit of the doubt.
Thanks for doing this video! I had never considered using them on dimple locks. All the others I've seen used a vertical blade for pin tumbler locks. Interesting!
It seems that you may have gotten the rotten end of the deal with some locksmith or other and for that I am sorry.Never the less you have no right to say "Locksmiths don't tend to give a damn, as long as they get paid." because I have been a licensed locksmith for quite some time and I take great care and great pride in my work.If you have a good lock I will do everything within my skillset to pick open your lock so that you can have the lock rekeyed instead of you having to run out and needlessly spend $80.00 or more on a new lock.Many locksmiths will just drill the lock out and have you buy a new lock but that's not how I operate.If the lock cannot be picked open and rekeyed that's just how it is sometimes but as long as there is a chance that I can pick the lock for you and save you money I will do so.My recommendations come from the good work that I have done and continue to do and from my honesty.When you do good work your work will speak for itself,that's all there is to it.
I'd love to enter in for this, but don't think I'd have a practical use for it (lack of Chinese locks) Thank you sir for the demos, and the ringing in my ears.
I think you should try setting the power between minimum (too gentle) and half. I have experience with electrick pick guns and I would say at half power is already too much vibration. Maximum is just crazy and after a while you probably will damage the lock.
I just pictured a device like this with carbide key shaped cutters that will eat away at the pins untill there's nothing left to lock the cylinder... for when you have anti drill bars in the face of the lock.
The success of the bump gun may depend on how rigidly the lock is held, kind of like limp wrist-ing a automatic pistol and having problems with cycling??
I have to wonder if that wouldn't have worked out for the better if you'd gave quick minute clockwise/counter-clock as you were plunging the lock. I've never picked a lock in my life but am mesmerized watching you work. But I have to wonder if that action would have essentially helped to walk the pins into position better. I'd definitely like to hear why that's a bogus idea anyhow. Great videos. I used to think watching a watchmaker might be interesting but this takes the cake.
The decoder is only about 0.012" thick - about like a shim. The shank is 0.032" thick and used to manipulate the actuator on unshielded locks, so much tougher. They are not used for the same thing if that's what you are thinking.
It actually looks fairly well made. It would be interesting to open up and see if that carried through to the electronics. Maybe not good for picking locks but still an interesting toy.
Do the locks that didn't bump still work with a key? Just curious to know if the bits of metal falling out were evidence of a lock getting right royally trashed
So I guess someone in China figured out: Typical locks being made of brass/steel pins wear down after x = 10 000 - 25 000 cycles of usage before failure as a functional lock or there is enough slop/material removed from the pins that bumping becomes a viable option. Creates tool to exploit the fact we don't make locks/pins out of ridiculous materials like titanium or carbide. Makes bump keys out of harder material then the lock's pins and uses tool to "brute" force the lock via making it reach the end of its life cycle in the span of minutes rather then years.
I'll bet the batteries are 18650's. They are easy to get from old dead laptop or drill batteries. Usually only one battery is dead in the pack. Take apart a few and you can get good quality replacements for fixing battery packs.
I think you might get animal control called for someone abusing a goose in the middle of the night. It's not exactly a clandestine entry tool.
I think my wife has one of those! I can't be sure, but when I'm downstairs watching football, I hear that same noise! I never knew she had an interest in locks, thanks for bringing this to light bill!
😂
Yeah when she opens that lock and screams “oh yes!!!”
It makes so much more sense now.
Never forget boys, you always need the right tool for the job.
Finally I figured out what that noise was. Now I just need to figure out why my gf is bumping locks with an electric tool in the shower, it does not seem safe.
Umm... never mind.
"dick gun" vs pick gun
Lmao
I do the same. So fun totally
So basically it's just a reciprocating saw that looks enough the part for you to convince someone that you're an actual locksmith. If the blanks were made out of M42 HSS, you could just grind the pins past the sheer line and get an open on anything.
I'm not worried about that pick gun being loud, I already lost most of my hearing on that intro. But thanks for the warning anyway. Looks like that thing is just eating the pins seeing how much metal is flying out of the locks. I wonder if the keys will even work after such savage pin-destruction.
Bill always comes in Guns blazing... get used to it :)
I'm trying to. But it always catches me off-gaurd. Especially when I'm a little pissed, which I usually am on a saturday night.
*hug*
"Pissed" meaning drunk by the way. But thanks for the hug. Much appreciated :D
Curious find Louis CK on netflix or youtube.. you're gonna love it ;)
That intro music make my headphones blow up. I'm now dead.
yes that opening is way too aggressive
I usually expect them to be a little loud, but this one particularly was well above normal, even for Bill's intros...
Bill put it in a vice that simulates that it's in a door because when it's in your hand your hand is vibrating while the tool is vibrating and it's not able to really bump I give it another shot with it in a vice I don't think this is a good example of this tool because locks are indoors not in your hand
Mr Fender bender Weird! I don't ever recall seeing padlocks hard mounted in doors. Have I been using them wrong my entire life?
The only thing that is guaranteed more than the sun rising tomorrow is someone whining and/or crying about the intro of Bill's videos. Plus it's usually done in a rude manner. If one does not know by now that an intro & video are going to start by the action of clicking on said video, then you have bigger issues to worry about!
exactly! absorbing nearly 1/2 the energy but not linearly.
I get the feeling that holding onto the locks is really decreasing the effectiveness. your essentially dampening the movement
Do R/C! Yep, I totally agree. Some of “Newton’s laws” energy was lost in BB’s chubby hands. Considering the style of attack, I Definitely would have went with a solid base/vise for this.
Your meat mitts are absorbing the vibration and causing the pins to react slower... Put it in a vice. You own a vice, why didn't you put the locks in it?
Bill, you should retry this test with the locks secured in a heavy/stationary vise. When attempting to hold the locks, your left wrist is effectively dampning alot of energy in this scenario.
Would be interesting to use a transparent lock and a high speed camera to see what those tools do with the pins. Could be that pins have their own resonance frequency at which they start to bounce, so picking the right speed of the tool would be important.
I think you're not allowing the key bit to insert fully when you're using the gun.
I also think perhaps by holding in your hand, you're dampening the forces which would otherwise bump the pins.
Try a re-review with the locks either clamped in a vice, or clamped to some timber for support.
And try having the bit fully inserted so it bounces off the lock barrel rear limit.
I couldn't even finish watching. Use a vice or something. Half the energy of the tool is lost holding it in your fumbling hands.
You need to send this to Ave or Bigclive to tear down.
And see that the earth isn't connected.
Rob B.C. My same exact thought.
And say it needs a warm white led
Keep your lock in a vise.
That would actually be interesting. Funny how peopple here have the same interests :)
Maybe it would work better if the lock was set in a vise, your hand might be absorbing much of the desired vibration.
Always enjoyed your videos while spending countless hours at work! Enjoy yourself, your family, and most importantly your time! Bless you brother!
"It's Very loud" Still not HALF as loud as the intro music :)
You should use it with a vice
you can see that your hand can't hold it steady with your hand . the vice will simulate it in the door so it won't jiggle. that way the pins take all of the shock and not the whole lock.
The hand absorbe a lot of energy actually...
That's what I was thinking.
so you can use it as a saw to cut the lock in half
You could also use explosive shape charge, but that wouldn't be the point of the video.
the point of the comment was that the tool is really a saw in the first place and the steel "blades" ripped out parts of the brass locks throughout the whole video.
Variable speed jigsaw without a soleplate essentially
your hand is dissipating most of the energy since you're allowing the lock to move
put it in a vise or put the pick gun away
Aggravated just watching....
I demand high speed video of that cutaway smiley, specifically the cutaway to monitor pins, just to see the chaos going on inside.
Edit: If i buy this and have problems, im sure my ol lady could find a purpose for it.
Hi Bill. Your review of this tool is probably accurate on dimpel locks, but using regulare bumpkeys works fine, in fact very good. So good in fact that when I was learning to use the tool, I filed down some of the teeth on the key, because it the tool is so fast that using a regulare bumpkey, can be counter-productive.
I have tried it on dimpel locks, there the tool is for some reason not so effective, also used bogota picks on it for raking, this also works.
I think what you did "wrong" was holding the lock in your hand, when I do that, the time it takes to open a lock increases a lot.
(When holding the lock in your hand. ( I think ) You make some kind of "occilating-counter-spring effect" that nullifies the tool - also saw that your grip was over the turn-part of the lock)
But what the tool does really good is wearing a lock down, real fast. So because of this I filed and polished the keys I use in it, also oiling the lock that I want to open)
I Love your reviews, so sorry about this feedback. I think your negative result was just lack of experience with the tool.
The tension-part of the tool is the tricky thing. I feel that it is a to "long turn" on it. This make using it a lot more difficult. I can also add, when I cut a horizontal groove on the front of the lock, to fit a tensioner as an experiment. It was a lot easier and faster to open the lock. (but the tensionpart also then is somewhat tricky, I have thought of trying to do something to it, to make a heavier and shorter turn but havent got around to do it)
And the lock never made eye contact with you again.
As always, Bill, you are the master at finding unique items.
Is it possible that you're not inserting the gun all the way in, so the last pin isn't getting seated?
Try it with the locks in the vise, you're losing a lot of the energy into your hand.
You might have better luck with the lock tight in a vice - i think a lot of the vibration energy is transferring to the housing rather than just the pins...so you are not getting the full 'bumping' of the pins.
if all else fails you can use it to jackhammer through the concrete under the door
I wonder what the locks looks like on the inside after that treatment. Does the keys still open the locks? (and yes, send this "lock hammer" to AvE or BigClive for teardown!)
“Made with PA6 glass fiber reinforced, 30%”
Looks like the tool motion is like a sine wave, not triangular/ramp style or even like short rectangular pulses. Using a powerful solenoid could work.
2:52
Things like this are why I keep on coming back, caught me off guard and I laughed out loud :)
so true :D
Great Video Bill. Very Interesting Tool. Keep up the great work. Nick.
GREAT REVIEW . Bill thanks for sharing.😎😎😎😎😎
Pardon me if it's discussed near the end of the vid as I didn't watch it all. But, I feel that handholding the locks is defeating the intent of that bump gun. Most of the momentum is being transferred into your hand instead of into the pins. I bet you'd have good luck with that if the locks were in a heavy vice, thus keeping the body of the lock stationary.
The problem you're having is because the lock is in your hand. For the lock pick to work correctly it needs the lock to be held rigid allowing the pins to vibrate better. Redo this video with the locks in a vice or a door. I will bet you that 90% of them will open with no problem at all.
You think maybe holding the lock in your hand acted as a shock absorber taking away the effectiveness of the gun?
I wonder which one is faster at getting it open, YOU or that lock destroyer
I put my money on you
Yeah, probably
Hello, I am a Chinese locksmith, you do not understand this tool, the key to this tool is the angle.
I assume the angle determines the amount of torque being exterted on the lock. Jack it over too far and you bind all the pins. No different than regular picking.
That is very true,I have had locks bind on me all because I used too much tension.It's like when picking security pins,you have to gauge the tension and in most cases back up off the tension or start over to successfully pick locks containing security pins.
@@NelsonE50 Yes, as I stated in my comments the tension-part of the tool is the tricky part with this tool. Also noticed that Bill used nearly zero tension on it
I would try to get some motoroil inside the lock. The viscosity of the oil will delay the spring/keypin action so it will take longer for the lock to return to a locked position.
This looks very destructive! But great review Buddy! Have you ever looked at the Multipick Kronos?😊 Greetings from Germany
The 3rd set of locks you showed with the dimples on top and cuts either side looked somewhat like the safe key I had at my one job.
"i call that an upside-down smiley face lock" -- i think it's safe to say Bill's cup is half full :)
Looks like strong, versatile tool. Adding own bumpkeys is a great option. Since all pins must be engaged simultaneously, practice a bit is necessary. Nice video trough.
wow bill? I don't know about that electric gun thing. it did wake up my wife. thanks now you can watch her. good show.
Wouldn't worry about some metal chips coming out, just deburring edges. Powder graphite shot will help.
Hello intro. Goodbye ear drums.
Would love to see the pins after going against this monster?
In the double sided euro locks, if the side you are picking isn't the engaged with the slider it won't work.
I'm surprised you didn't try the regular keys again to see if the metal shavings were bad damage, or even look at the bump key to see if it looked damaged
the front part of the tool that grabs the key is rotating on the shaft, so no torque was being used
you should put the lock in a vice as your hand is absorbing some of the vibration that vibrates the pins
Could you make blanks from a key and fit it in the gun??
gunshot to the door is quieter and more efficient. if noise isnt an issue than that thing will chew up the pins in no time and youll find ypur way in.
I aplaude you you found the g spot in chineese mindy
No thank you. I can pick it faster than that without damaging the lock. Thank you for showing me why not to buy this. I truly do appreciate your channel for everything it has taught me
I have one of these, I put a dimple lock in a small vice and worked from there. The problem is there are a few similar key profiles. I found one that worked after trying 3 others and then it opened quickly. But boy was it noisy and everything vibrated off my table.
you can see silvery particles just popping every now and then. wow this thing is powerful
You picked my ears open with that intro music volume >.
I tried to do this with a cheap cordless jig saw using my own modified key blanks. The problem is the saw has too much forward/backward throw to it.
Try filing down a teeth or two (o.a.) on the bumpkey. I had the same experience when I was learning to use this tool and but when I filed it down to f.ex. 2-3 teeth on a 6pin key. But the power is a important key, Bill uses to much, with not enough tension
Your operation is wrong, electric gun should be angle, hope you can take a video to correct it, I am in China, I used.
omg, thanks for the heads up on the full power pull.
I imagine part of the issue you're encountering is due to your hand absorbing a lot of the kinetic energy. I would suspect better results in a more normal application.
Good theory, but it isn't supported by the facts. It made no difference whatsoever. The gun puts out so much energy that there is no way my hand could absorb enough to make a difference. Just to check, I used a vise on the same locks. No difference. We got those results because the tool simply doesn't work on locks with wide variations in bitting, just as I said in the video.
bosnianbill Interesting. Thanks for the feedback.
Try lubricating the locks before attempting to bump the locks open.New locks are tight and lubricating the locks will help the pins move more freely.Old locks also become tight because of dirt build up over time,in both new and old locks lubricating the locks is always a smart idea.I saw several videos using that electric dimple lock bump gun and in the several videos that I have seen the person using the tool always starts off at a low speed then gradually increases the speed until the lock finally opens.As for the noise level of the electric dimple lock bump gun I do not see that as anything to be overly concerned about unless of course you are breaking and entering.I am a licensed locksmith and as such I always carry my locksmith license with me and I will never open any lock for anyone unless the person needing a lock opened has proper identification.Dimple locks also utilize security pins so practice is a must just like with regular lock picking.The one thing I did not see you do in the video was to reset the tension before you tried to bump the locks open again.Resetting the pins is sometimes necessary in order to successfully open locks.As for the variations in bitting that is certainly true which is why it is necessary to obtain bump keys which will correspond to the locks to be opened and modify said bump keys to work with the electric dimple lock bump gun.In my opinion and from personal experience the electric dimple lock bump gun is a Godsend because it will save time and money opening dimple locks such as multilocks.I have had success bumping open multilock cylinders and I know that once I buy one of those electric dimple lock bump guns I will have even greater success opening the multilock cylinders.I do not own a multilock key machine but I have friends that are licensed locksmiths that own multilock key machines and will cut multilock bump keys for me because I am a licensed locksmith.For those of you that are not licensed locksmiths I would say don't bother buying this electric dimple lock bump gun unless you are a licensed locksmith and you have locksmith friends that can and will cut the necessary bump keys for you.
@@NelsonE50 I agree, if you read my comments, you`ll see my personal experience with the tool and what Bill did wrong. (But this was simply just lack of experience using it)
Did the locks survive? Did the keys still work?
In the google translate app, you can bring up the camera and it will translate in real time on screen.
You can use simple electric jigsaw instead (with bumpkey attached)
Needs a rubberized stopper that you put against the lock face and a spring loaded join so you can turn the tool and hold it there, trying to hold the torsion just right whilst holding the tool seems like it would be a pain.
The tool does have a "spring loaded join" for applying tension either to the left or the right,the idea of a rubberized stopper is not a bad idea though.I think that since Bill just got the tool he wasn't practiced enough with it.Even though the tool is electric proper tension is always necessary and takes practice,especially when trying to pick security pins.Bill has good tension control from what I have seen in his other videos,the tool is new to him so let us give both Bill and the electric bump tool the benefit of the doubt.
I feel like a lot of the energy you are trying to transfer into the pins is being lost on the housing not being on the vice or installed on something
Thanks for doing this video! I had never considered using them on dimple locks. All the others I've seen used a vertical blade for pin tumbler locks. Interesting!
*_No one will EVER hear you breaking in with this. :P_*
Locksmiths don't tend to give a damn, as long as they get paid.
Aye but I meant in a "burglar's" sense of the tool. :P
It seems that you may have gotten the rotten end of the deal with some locksmith or other and for that I am sorry.Never the less you have no right to say "Locksmiths don't tend to give a damn, as long as they get paid." because I have been a licensed locksmith for quite some time and I take great care and great pride in my work.If you have a good lock I will do everything within my skillset to pick open your lock so that you can have the lock rekeyed instead of you having to run out and needlessly spend $80.00 or more on a new lock.Many locksmiths will just drill the lock out and have you buy a new lock but that's not how I operate.If the lock cannot be picked open and rekeyed that's just how it is sometimes but as long as there is a chance that I can pick the lock for you and save you money I will do so.My recommendations come from the good work that I have done and continue to do and from my honesty.When you do good work your work will speak for itself,that's all there is to it.
Lockpicking isn't used for breaking in criminally.
I'd love to enter in for this, but don't think I'd have a practical use for it (lack of Chinese locks)
Thank you sir for the demos, and the ringing in my ears.
'Take a screenshot, it will you tell you everything you have'
Yeah thanks man. Thanks a lot.
"If you're wearing headphones, take them off now." I have headphones on.... *turns down volume* BZZZTTT That wasn't so bad!
i see master china demo all the cylinder lock must be fix dead at clamp not hold by hand ,this may be a little different and trouble
Nice set well demonstrated.
You should have put some thin oil lubricant on the bump keys so they would tear up the lock less.
A like just for "if you're textually oriented"... spat my drink all over the screen..
😀 so, SOMEBODY noticed...
I think you should try setting the power between minimum (too gentle) and half. I have experience with electrick pick guns and I would say at half power is already too much vibration. Maximum is just crazy and after a while you probably will damage the lock.
I just pictured a device like this with carbide key shaped cutters that will eat away at the pins untill there's nothing left to lock the cylinder... for when you have anti drill bars in the face of the lock.
For the price why not buy a reciprocating saw with a speed adapter?
I know I dildo that have the same sound... but he actually open stuff...
Love your videos!
Sore head listening to that ! I'll stick to my picks bill .. thanks
Maybe if you had it in the vice Bill. Idk but I would think your hand is maybe taking a lot of the vibration out of the tool.
The success of the bump gun may depend on how rigidly the lock is held, kind of like limp wrist-ing a automatic pistol and having problems with cycling??
Bill... you didn't test the key in the lock after abusing it with that machine... do they even still work anymore?
I have to wonder if that wouldn't have worked out for the better if you'd gave quick minute clockwise/counter-clock as you were plunging the lock. I've never picked a lock in my life but am mesmerized watching you work. But I have to wonder if that action would have essentially helped to walk the pins into position better. I'd definitely like to hear why that's a bogus idea anyhow. Great videos. I used to think watching a watchmaker might be interesting but this takes the cake.
Apart from the angle of use issue, for the lock nr 2 removing the key from the other end can change something ?
A forensic locksmith would think you used a sawzall to open the lock.
Is their a difference between the sparrows ultra decoder and the sparrows shank
If so what is the difference?
The decoder is only about 0.012" thick - about like a shim. The shank is 0.032" thick and used to manipulate the actuator on unshielded locks, so much tougher. They are not used for the same thing if that's what you are thinking.
It actually looks fairly well made. It would be interesting to open up and see if that carried through to the electronics. Maybe not good for picking locks but still an interesting toy.
Jmann147 we can get bigclivedotcom to sign up fot the competition
Jmann147 Send one to AvE
or teardown on the EEVblog. as dave say. Don't turn it on,take it apart
Was hoping you tried to open the locks you tried to bump, did they open ?
I wanted to see you use the original keys after wearing down the pins like that.
Do the locks that didn't bump still work with a key? Just curious to know if the bits of metal falling out were evidence of a lock getting right royally trashed
You should try moving the pick in and out of the key way
Can you order extre tips to fit common non Chinese locks? Or is it a standard fitting?
You should see if the original key still works after all that metal coming out.
Try making a few custom rakes and giving this another try as a rake gun.
... I think the reason for the massive amount of power in the gun might be to simply wear any pins it encounters down till the lock gives in.
So I guess someone in China figured out:
Typical locks being made of brass/steel pins wear down after x = 10 000 - 25 000 cycles of usage before failure as a functional lock or there is enough slop/material removed from the pins that bumping becomes a viable option.
Creates tool to exploit the fact we don't make locks/pins out of ridiculous materials like titanium or carbide. Makes bump keys out of harder material then the lock's pins and uses tool to "brute" force the lock via making it reach the end of its life cycle in the span of minutes rather then years.
The chrome plating comes off the bump keys
I'll bet the batteries are 18650's. They are easy to get from old dead laptop or drill batteries. Usually only one battery is dead in the pack. Take apart a few and you can get good quality replacements for fixing battery packs.
I suppose one could fashion a chisel bit and use it to carve wood in one second intervals. A little pricey though. ;)
At the end it almost looked like you modified a reciprocating saw blade the way crap was flying out the key way.