Thanks a lot bro! Besides watching your video I've read some of your replies here and it seems like you have a giant heap of knowledge of what you are doing and also you have a good heart to share what you know. And you are an expert in explaining complex things in so simple words. Love from Assam... ❤
Thank you so much for your great comment, really I'm audiophile and a big fan of speakers from childhood, especially vintage jbl monitor studio. In my life I'm technician (electromechanical) but audio diy is my favorite things that i do with love. You welcome 🥰🙏🙏🙏
personally I don't believe much in comparisons of sounds on youtube, including recording equipment, listening location, editing, equalization, youtube tuning and final listening equipment (most of the time the telephone speaker) the result is probably far from real. in the video I showed several techniques that are very important to remember to do a lot of things on speakers.
@@homemade_audio how does the modified speaker sound like? Clearer on the high frequencies? I was also expecting a comparison, even though compression will inevitably mess things up 😅 you're an amazing master of this stuff by the way, thanks heaps for putting up these videos!
thank you for your comment, first the modified driver is a midwoofer, already there are no high frequencies !! but what I noticed is that with the neodym magnets I have a softer sound with less presence of midranges, and a good presence of bass.
Definitely doing things the hard way. I think you can just buy a speaker kit with all the parts and just put your magnets in there instead of the supplied one. Maybe I'm wrong about that though but a guy I knew years ago would do exactly that to repair speakers. But this video is an excellent demonstration of how a speaker is put together.
On the back, where the magnets are, the coil was exposed and dirt, dust, etc. could get in, which over time, will cause it to have friction, sound bad, and even the coil to get stuck. I, instead, would cover that opening with clear plastic so that it can continue to be seen when it moves. Even, to make it look prettier, I would add some LED lights. Good your idea, only the sound check was missing. Greetings from Argentina. 🇦🇷
This is not necessary, many high end drivers leave this area exposed, it is great for cooling the driver, and if the woofer is properly enclosed in a good box, there will be no problems.
@@dhmusic2031 it doesnt. leds need ripping out of everything 😂. ive got a whole room in my place set up with only incandescents so i can get some relax light for my head. and every one diffused through some natural media. im so done with flickering.
If your video was narrated, you would get so many more views and subscriptions. You can even use an AI to narrate so you don't have to find or pay anyone. It would improve your videos and possibly answer some lingering questions people might have. The most important thing you didn't do, that was the reason for the video, was to demonstrate how the improvement worked. Why would we want to do this, we don't even know if this works, and if so, how well.
Very interesting vid & I can see the skills to redo the driver. I have the following comments... Artificial magnets (Samarium Cobalt and now Neodymium) are used where space/weight is reduced and strong mangnetic fiels is needed (= maximum energy produc or magnetic density): headphones, in-ear headphones for audio and electric motors (EV), hard drives, RC servos, military/space apps,... I can't see an audiophile taking the risk of upgarding to neodymium while having a big risk of downgrading the balance of cone and precisely centered coil while standard drivers/speakers are already designed for the best performance. I will not take a chance to fiddle with my Harman Kardon and Bose speakers.
So I installed a new sound system in my 2010 BMW Z4 and installed Focal separates front and rear ,It sounded ok but to me the titanium tweeters was way to bright . So I ordered some vibe speakers from the UK and they have neodymium magnets in the drivers and the tweeters are a silk soft dome. OMG they are so crisp and clean with no distortion at all. I listen to a lot of Jazz and now the vocals and drums are so awesome
No, the Danish make the best! Scan Speak, Vifa, Dynaudio, Eton Electro, Peerless, Tympany, etc. Anyways, the neo magnets did not improve your sound. Most likely just a better match. Many of the Focal tweeters that come with the components are kinda sub par. I always went for their inverted dome Kevlar ones. Soft not harsh, hits the high details, non fatiguing. My favorite car front end drivers have been Focal since 1986. I used to use their home audio drivers decades before they made car audio gear...
Titanium & Aluminum domes can have a certain "ring" resonance to them if not designed properly!!! Silk cloth domes always have the best response & imaging IMHO!!!
@Homemade Audio Great video. Thanks for posting. I've had very little luck getting speakers apart without destroying the frame. After watching this maybe I'll try again. There was a lost opportunity here. If you'd made the polepiece with an undercut you could have added a conductive sleeve (copper or aluminum) under the magnetic gap and another above and significantly reduced harmonic distortion just the way the expensive high-end driver manufacturers do. In addition I've thought of shielding the outside of the magnetic gap as well. I'd attach to the back of the top plate a 1/4" aluminum plate, that plate having a hole perfectly lined up with the hole for the magnetic gap. In addition there would be holes drilled through the aluminum that will locate the 8 magnets. Add another piece of aluminum to the front of the top plate, similarly aligned with the magnetic gap, and you get a near perfectly shielded magnetic gap. That should reduce harmonic distortion dramatically. Maybe when I have time, money, and the right state of mind I will try that. Thanks again for posting this.
Did a Nd magnet mod and the results were increased volume with less drive current and extended HF response. Was worth it for mid and high range, didnt change much with bass and sub bass regions. Replacing with an active magnet (electromagnet) was similar.
Yes i agree with you, very logical question, but I don't have materials to get the new T/S parameters. I'm planning to buy Dayton Dats software in the future.
@@homemade_audio Do you have an unmodified speaker model? Could you measure the deflection of the membrane at the same DC voltage with and without modification. You would immediately know whether the strength of the magnetic field in the air gap is greater or not. It is not demanding on the equipment. Of course, it won't tell you the T/S parameters. Purely theoretically, however, they should be preserved if the rest of the moving system was not adjusted, only the sensitivity of the speaker should be improved.
@@davidrendek2399 More Qes, less bass, more sensitivity. More Qts. More is lower number. deflections can be higher at resonance with less magnet. The right amount of magnet is best.
This would be great for subwoofers. Better for lower frequency and the coil seems like it would stay cooler with the extra air flow. Curious about how it performed
Very cool and informative video. I may consider that for a much larger speaker as I’m not sure that one is worth the effort. Also you must seal the perimeter of the exposed magnets with tape or plastic to prevent debris from getting into the voice coil and pole assembly. Otherwise very nice work.
Yes i agree with you, glue isn't enough to hold well the magnets, but the best way t keep voice coil safely is to hold the two métal parts of magnets assembly with bolts. You welcome
No no that’s not what I’m saying. If you look at the speaker from the side you can see the voice coil through the magnets. Debris can fall in between and get lodged in the voice coil.
@@homemade_audio I thought perhaps an epoxy encapsulation of the magnets could be made to have the exact same toroidal shape of the ferrite magnet and thus have a closed design just like the ferrite one but with neodymium, what you think?
The risk of debris is real but you also have to consider that exposing the coil to the air the temperature of the coil cools down during the activity and this may increase the power handling. The greater attraction of the magnet may also increase the excurions of the coils and there is the risk of a deformation of the botton of the coil hitting on the base plate because rhe greater length of the coil movements. The magnets have been glued but the are many vibrations so there is a risk that some magnet detach in the long term. To connect the top and base plates with metallic bolt may deform the magnetic field as well .
Great job! That's some insane craftsmanship and machinery you have. Would've been interesting to see how the efficiency of the speaker changes. Feeding both the ferrite one and the neodymium one 1W and measuring it's volume. Also I am wondering whether putting the magnets closer to the coil would've granted a higher efficiency.
AlNiCo* was kind of the neodymium of old. Neo motors, like the old AlNiCo are highly efficient, and can produce good volume at low power. I have tested neo drivers and directly compared them to similarly powered ferrite drivers, and the difference is very noticeable. Neodymium is more common in smaller drivers, especially in modern tweeters and mid-ranges. Pro audio drivers in particular often use neodymium motors, because of their high efficiency. Though, some high-end subwoofer drivers use neodymium motors as well, it is rather uncommon in large drivers, since neodymium is much more expensive than common ferrite. Large high-power coils will often produce high temperatures too, so that is why neodymium drivers often have an open structure design, since neodymium gets weakened by heat. * AlNiCo is an alloy made from aluminium, nickel and cobalt.
Longer throw, and better air cooling, and no doubt better accuracy and detailes in the sound image. I have dolby audio and could probably hear the difference between the two spkrs. Demos are worth it.
Assuming the smaller magnets around the periphery actually produce a stronger field in the core it will cause less overshoot of the cone, improving the bass, and a little higher speaker efficiency. I watch these videos to learn about speaker construction so I can do better repair work on old radios.
I think it's better for the neodymium magnet to keep the original magnet thickness so that the voice coil position is at the right position. Furthermore, the voice coil should not expose to outside which will collect debris into the magnetic gap.
Bro you were surgical with that removal. Scored a sub for that without anything else that was impeccable not to mention fascinating af. I'm a total clutz to the point I make myself agnry 😂 but if you do other stuff about speakers I'll be tuning in. ✌️
One should cover up that magnets enclosure, as dustproof as possible....average urban dust contains small grains of sand, earth including metal particles of which some are magnetic also....they will accumulate and get trapped into the vibrating space of the membrane's coil therefore it will strongly affect the way electric impulses are turned into sounds so distortions will occur....also, due to friction of the coil with such trapped grains, short-circuits may occur and/or the wire gets cut......
You have a new follower...Thanks for this ultra intersting video! One question...I have all Paper cone speakers and some really vintage old kind of glue............Is really important to use some really good "paint Thinner" do you have some more detail about a good product? it is a acetone or other type? will be really helpfull to me....thanks and congratulation for what you do for all the Hifi community....Ivan
You have not tested the sound of both speaker differences and what good sound will it bring? We want to hear the sound difference of both the original and the modified one. How is that?
If it was better why havent subwoofer makers making them from factory? I think i have heard tweeters made with neo magnets. In my opinion must make the price jump and the sensitivity go down due to over coming a strength of the magnets? Just ideas. Nice work tho
Would have been interesting to use a piece of the green magnetic field viewing film to put over and see what the field lines look like before putting the cap pole piece back on!!! Additionally Would have been interesting to drill a vent hole through the pole piece for ventilation and cooling the voice coil as the dustcap looked like it was not permeable to ventilation. No ventilation between the dustcap and pole piece means you have an enclosed cavity that seems like it might hinder the Xmax excursion and truncate the SPL capability.
If you just want a stronger field, and there is a nice big core like that, and there is room in the enclosure - all you have to do is add magnets to the back or sides. That will strengthen the field. With surface prep, cyanoacrylate (super glue) would be fine. Just need to think a little about the field. You can get donut or wide disk neodymium magnets too. Or just double up with another copy of the existing ferrite magnet. Flux linkage is a thing. But with a stronger field, you could exceed excursion limits. While you were machining, you could have cut recesses for the magnets for friction fit.
"Pro": Only in this case, the voice coil works cooler because it is much more exposed to the weather outside. "Cons": The final sound is totally changed due to a drier, more annoying sound, since ceramic magnets are preferred par excellence for their magnetic damping capacity to sudden and repetitive changes in the magnetic polarity of the voice coil. To solve this defect with Neodymium magnets, another diameter of voice coil must be used that resonates with the woofer casing, using a more robust casing to avoid harmonic fluctuations produced by the bending of a weaker casing which is not structurally prepared to withstand large magnitude torsion. You should also consider changing the cone material to a much stiffer and thinner one or use another type of cone material that is much softer than the original and thicker. Changing the permanent ceramic magnet for a neodymium one in a speaker with these characteristics, just like that, only worsens the final sound and good results are not obtained if its structural manufacturing characteristics are not considered.
Because of this project you've got a new subscriber here sir. May I add some suggestions if you may on the magnets installed. How about you drilled a 2mm deep pocket for each neodym to seat on aside from gluing it down and also drilling four bolt holes around the base for a bolts and nuts to go through from basket all the way to the back as clamping so if ever the glue gets dull none of the individual parts would move around and gets misaligned. I would love to see a bigger version of this project (a 12" or 15" maybe😄). Great contents sir 👍
I just want those magnets for my collection…. But I’m probably gonna try this out with some small speakers If it’s worth it and I don’t just suck at doing it I’ll use the 5 1inch cylinder neos I got on a nice sub.
Just when was gonna say man I can do this and then he pops with oh this has to be machine lmmfao ok everyone has a lil tiny machine in the kitchen drawer lol but thank you for showing us how to remove everything
if you have watched the video carefully, you will notice that if you replace the ferrite with a neodymium of the same height, you will not need a machining machine in your kitchen drawer 😁😁😁
what benefits does this have? Am I wrong in thinking that the voicecoil should be changed as well, in order to allow more travel. I dont really no what Im talking about but are neodymium magnets primarily used to make a smaller speaker more efficient than had it used a ferrite magnet?
Interesting modification. I wonder how much the driver's t/s parameters changed with the change of magnet? A stronger magnet will result in Qes and therefore Qts going down. Fs will probably go do slightly, not because of the magnet, but because of the additional glue, which adds a slight bit of mass to the cone. Room EQ Wizard (free software) and a simple impedance jig can be used to measure the parameters of the original driver and the upgraded one for comparison purposes.
TS parameters certainly changed, not only because the magnet have been more strong, also because the old ferrite magnet create a small closed space behind the cone assembly, now with neodym magnet the cone becomes free to air on back, the result: the midrange becomes clear and soft , and the bass becomes strong, because i feel more bass power on my hands when i tested the driver.
@@homemade_audio The increased bass power could also be caused by a reduction in BL, which will lead to more output around the driver's resonance frequency. The best way to determine what impact the change has had on the driver is to run an impedance sweep on the unchanged one and compare it to an impedance sweep of the changed one. If the impedance peak for the changed driver is lower and narrower, then BL has gone down.
Bon boulot, mais pourquoi pas un moustiquaire autour les magnètes pour proteger la bobine contre la poussiere? Produit le haut parleur plus de décibels maintenant?
Awesome work clearly a steady skilled hand. Extremely impressive making difficult skilled work look easy but i wish you had hooked it up after and shown that it still functions.
No sir, it's not my job to show something false to my followers, the video on the beginning is real not a fake, the driver still working good like before but with more bass and soft midrange response. You have to see the video again.
I think when u change magnet to speaker is change vocal or music in speaker maybe but bass is same as before i think that created to do this perfomance dont loose time to change magnet is not big different is about ohm watt connection speakers to amplifier
Nice work done. I think you should check first with Guas Meter what the reading of orginal Barium magnet in core perifery. what the gaus value get after Neody.. magnet. Now does it require more Watt poer to drive the spaeker. In what terms it better perform.
In some instances the magnetic field can work against dependent upon placement. The Yolk which he machined is moving the field to the desired location.
Ahí debió de sustituir el diámetro de la bobina para tener más efecto, lógico suben las teslas sube la fuerza resultante con la misma corriente que quedó
Changing the magnet will change all the t/s parameters of the speaker. The speaker will perform compeletely differently if the magnet power is not calculated correctly.
@@castuart81 think about the heat source and it surrounding before and after the mod.. you have here direct convection with more air. don't forget, anilco speaker were built that way. this mod is an overall improvement over the ferrite one...
Beim lautsprecher hersteller werden die magneten doch immer unter einem speziellen Verfahren magnetisiert oder ? Wäre mir neu wahllos irgendwelche magneten da ran zu knallen
I really want to try this on 12" sub, it looks super cool and badass. but neodymium magnets are expensive here😑😑 8 pieces 20x10mm neodymium cost more than the sub it self and that is the small one the properly sized one is gonna cost 2~3x the sub
Yes. It's not easy to get a good basse fréquences response from first test, this fabric elastic suspensions sounds good from first day, the sound is recorded based on zoom h2n.
А вот нафига ? Хоть бы чувствительность до и после померили , не говоря уж а силе магнитного поля в зазоре .. да и для бассового динамика не нужна большая магнитная индукция в зазоре , а для сч звена неодим не приветствется тк его поле менее однородное чем у феррита или самого тру аудиофильского alnico сплава .. единственное почему применяют неодим в динамиказ это уменьшение массы и габаритов , но тут наоборот увеличение
Questions: 1st, why didn't you clean the basket entirely before (!) installing the magnets and the rear plate? 2nd, why didn't you measure the TSP's before and after the modification? Only these would give you predictable response in a certain enclosure. 3rd, why did you use just 8 magnets instead of 12, or possibly 16? There appears to be much more space for them!
Thanks a lot bro! Besides watching your video I've read some of your replies here and it seems like you have a giant heap of knowledge of what you are doing and also you have a good heart to share what you know. And you are an expert in explaining complex things in so simple words.
Love from Assam... ❤
Thank you so much for your great comment, really I'm audiophile and a big fan of speakers from childhood, especially vintage jbl monitor studio.
In my life I'm technician (electromechanical) but audio diy is my favorite things that i do with love.
You welcome 🥰🙏🙏🙏
Glad to know that. Keep up the good works.
Pai...Probe nu?
I am from assam
@@homemade_audio❤
You should do a sound comparison between the ferrite magnet and neodymium magnet.
personally I don't believe much in comparisons of sounds on youtube, including recording equipment, listening location, editing, equalization, youtube tuning and final listening equipment (most of the time the telephone speaker) the result is probably far from real.
in the video I showed several techniques that are very important to remember to do a lot of things on speakers.
@@homemade_audio how does the modified speaker sound like? Clearer on the high frequencies? I was also expecting a comparison, even though compression will inevitably mess things up 😅 you're an amazing master of this stuff by the way, thanks heaps for putting up these videos!
thank you for your comment, first the modified driver is a midwoofer, already there are no high frequencies !! but what I noticed is that with the neodym magnets I have a softer sound with less presence of midranges, and a good presence of bass.
What liquid is, that you injected?
It's mentioned on the video (Paint thinner)
Definitely doing things the hard way. I think you can just buy a speaker kit with all the parts and just put your magnets in there instead of the supplied one. Maybe I'm wrong about that though but a guy I knew years ago would do exactly that to repair speakers. But this video is an excellent demonstration of how a speaker is put together.
Hello, the last sentence on your comment is the target 😉
just buy a speaker
The question is: do they sound better afterwards?
I was wondering that
It can, but if the speaker has a trash coil then it wont affect much
Probably not, but it has a lot more power. Perhaps more punch to the sound?
😂
Todo esse trabalho é em vão sem analisar os parâmetros T&S e resposta de freq antes e depois.
On the back, where the magnets are, the coil was exposed and dirt, dust, etc. could get in, which over time, will cause it to have friction, sound bad, and even the coil to get stuck. I, instead, would cover that opening with clear plastic so that it can continue to be seen when it moves. Even, to make it look prettier, I would add some LED lights. Good your idea, only the sound check was missing. Greetings from Argentina. 🇦🇷
This is not necessary, many high end drivers leave this area exposed, it is great for cooling the driver, and if the woofer is properly enclosed in a good box, there will be no problems.
why does everything need LEDs these days????
🫣 use incandesent for pretty. leds are never pretty.
@@dhmusic2031 it doesnt. leds need ripping out of everything 😂. ive got a whole room in my place set up with only incandescents so i can get some relax light for my head. and every one diffused through some natural media. im so done with flickering.
To combat heat, neodymium drivers will often have an open motor structure. Neodymium is weakened by heat.
If your video was narrated, you would get so many more views and subscriptions. You can even use an AI to narrate so you don't have to find or pay anyone. It would improve your videos and possibly answer some lingering questions people might have. The most important thing you didn't do, that was the reason for the video, was to demonstrate how the improvement worked. Why would we want to do this, we don't even know if this works, and if so, how well.
Very interesting vid & I can see the skills to redo the driver. I have the following comments... Artificial magnets (Samarium Cobalt and now Neodymium) are used where space/weight is reduced and strong mangnetic fiels is needed (= maximum energy produc or magnetic density): headphones, in-ear headphones for audio and electric motors (EV), hard drives, RC servos, military/space apps,... I can't see an audiophile taking the risk of upgarding to neodymium while having a big risk of downgrading the balance of cone and precisely centered coil while standard drivers/speakers are already designed for the best performance. I will not take a chance to fiddle with my Harman Kardon and Bose speakers.
So I installed a new sound system in my 2010 BMW Z4 and installed Focal separates front and rear ,It sounded ok but to me the titanium tweeters was way to bright . So I ordered some vibe speakers from the UK and they have neodymium magnets in the drivers and the tweeters are a silk soft dome. OMG they are so crisp and clean with no distortion at all. I listen to a lot of Jazz and now the vocals and drums are so awesome
Yep the English make the best speakers
No, the Danish make the best! Scan Speak, Vifa, Dynaudio, Eton Electro, Peerless, Tympany, etc.
Anyways, the neo magnets did not improve your sound. Most likely just a better match. Many of the Focal tweeters that come with the components are kinda sub par. I always went for their inverted dome Kevlar ones. Soft not harsh, hits the high details, non fatiguing. My favorite car front end drivers have been Focal since 1986. I used to use their home audio drivers decades before they made car audio gear...
Here in the uk Vibe is a budget brand for the kids. Vibe may be designed in the uk but its made in china
@@Synthematix Unfortunately the majority of British speaker brands are now designed in the uk but made in china
Titanium & Aluminum domes can have a certain "ring" resonance to them if not designed properly!!! Silk cloth domes always have the best response & imaging IMHO!!!
thank you for the video . a frequency response comparison would be interesting .
And what is the difference? Does it sound louder or better? You didn't record how it sounds before and after.
@Homemade Audio Great video. Thanks for posting. I've had very little luck getting speakers apart without destroying the frame. After watching this maybe I'll try again.
There was a lost opportunity here. If you'd made the polepiece with an undercut you could have added a conductive sleeve (copper or aluminum) under the magnetic gap and another above and significantly reduced harmonic distortion just the way the expensive high-end driver manufacturers do.
In addition I've thought of shielding the outside of the magnetic gap as well. I'd attach to the back of the top plate a 1/4" aluminum plate, that plate having a hole perfectly lined up with the hole for the magnetic gap. In addition there would be holes drilled through the aluminum that will locate the 8 magnets. Add another piece of aluminum to the front of the top plate, similarly aligned with the magnetic gap, and you get a near perfectly shielded magnetic gap. That should reduce harmonic distortion dramatically. Maybe when I have time, money, and the right state of mind I will try that.
Thanks again for posting this.
Did a Nd magnet mod and the results were increased volume with less drive current and extended HF response. Was worth it for mid and high range, didnt change much with bass and sub bass regions. Replacing with an active magnet (electromagnet) was similar.
Would love to know the before and after Theil/Small parameters, if you measured them please post the results! Great video!
Yes i agree with you, very logical question, but I don't have materials to get the new T/S parameters.
I'm planning to buy Dayton Dats software in the future.
@@homemade_audio Do you have an unmodified speaker model? Could you measure the deflection of the membrane at the same DC voltage with and without modification. You would immediately know whether the strength of the magnetic field in the air gap is greater or not. It is not demanding on the equipment. Of course, it won't tell you the T/S parameters. Purely theoretically, however, they should be preserved if the rest of the moving system was not adjusted, only the sensitivity of the speaker should be improved.
@@davidrendek2399 More Qes, less bass, more sensitivity. More Qts. More is lower number. deflections can be higher at resonance with less magnet. The right amount of magnet is best.
TS fundamental parameters are all the same except Bl is now infinite 🙂
This would be great for subwoofers. Better for lower frequency and the coil seems like it would stay cooler with the extra air flow. Curious about how it performed
Open magnet system can attract ferromagnetic dust
Very cool and informative video. I may consider that for a much larger speaker as I’m not sure that one is worth the effort. Also you must seal the perimeter of the exposed magnets with tape or plastic to prevent debris from getting into the voice coil and pole assembly. Otherwise very nice work.
Yes i agree with you, glue isn't enough to hold well the magnets, but the best way t keep voice coil safely is to hold the two métal parts of magnets assembly with bolts.
You welcome
No no that’s not what I’m saying. If you look at the speaker from the side you can see the voice coil through the magnets. Debris can fall in between and get lodged in the voice coil.
@@homemade_audio I thought perhaps an epoxy encapsulation of the magnets could be made to have the exact same toroidal shape of the ferrite magnet and thus have a closed design just like the ferrite one but with neodymium, what you think?
you could use a kind of screen net sheet over it
The risk of debris is real but you also have to consider that exposing the coil to the air the temperature of the coil cools down during the activity and this may increase the power handling. The greater attraction of the magnet may also increase the excurions of the coils and there is the risk of a deformation of the botton of the coil hitting on the base plate because rhe greater length of the coil movements. The magnets have been glued but the are many vibrations so there is a risk that some magnet detach in the long term. To connect the top and base plates with metallic bolt may deform the magnetic field as well .
Ini dih mlh mrmpersulit diri sendiri😊😊😊
Great job! That's some insane craftsmanship and machinery you have.
Would've been interesting to see how the efficiency of the speaker changes. Feeding both the ferrite one and the neodymium one 1W and measuring it's volume. Also I am wondering whether putting the magnets closer to the coil would've granted a higher efficiency.
I dont think the magnets being closer would do anything. The core is what decides where the magnetic fields go.
edit
Nice mod and good craftmanship from you. similar to Anilco speaker 😀😀😀
AlNiCo* was kind of the neodymium of old. Neo motors, like the old AlNiCo are highly efficient, and can produce good volume at low power.
I have tested neo drivers and directly compared them to similarly powered ferrite drivers, and the difference is very noticeable.
Neodymium is more common in smaller drivers, especially in modern tweeters and mid-ranges. Pro audio drivers in particular often use neodymium motors, because of their high efficiency. Though, some high-end subwoofer drivers use neodymium motors as well, it is rather uncommon in large drivers, since neodymium is much more expensive than common ferrite. Large high-power coils will often produce high temperatures too, so that is why neodymium drivers often have an open structure design, since neodymium gets weakened by heat.
* AlNiCo is an alloy made from aluminium, nickel and cobalt.
Longer throw, and better air cooling, and no doubt better accuracy and detailes in the sound image. I have dolby audio and could probably hear the difference between the two spkrs. Demos are worth it.
👍
U can do it so. Nice work! But how big is the accustic differnce? Do U can let us hear it?
Very good work!
🙏
You were very brave to take this project on
nice job bhai
Nice video, well done, thanks :)
Thank you 🙏
Nice man!👍🏻
Assuming the smaller magnets around the periphery actually produce a stronger field in the core it will cause less overshoot of the cone, improving the bass, and a little higher speaker efficiency. I watch these videos to learn about speaker construction so I can do better repair work on old radios.
nice channel, subbed
I think it's better for the neodymium magnet to keep the original magnet thickness so that the voice coil position is at the right position. Furthermore, the voice coil should not expose to outside which will collect debris into the magnetic gap.
Bro you were surgical with that removal. Scored a sub for that without anything else that was impeccable not to mention fascinating af. I'm a total clutz to the point I make myself agnry 😂 but if you do other stuff about speakers I'll be tuning in. ✌️
agreed lol
One should cover up that magnets enclosure, as dustproof as possible....average urban dust contains small grains of sand, earth including metal particles of which some are magnetic also....they will accumulate and get trapped into the vibrating space of the membrane's coil therefore it will strongly affect the way electric impulses are turned into sounds so distortions will occur....also, due to friction of the coil with such trapped grains, short-circuits may occur and/or the wire gets cut......
He did with patience 😊
Thank you 👍👍👍
Ты сделал Oris Aurum. Прекрасная серия динамиков была
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
Keep up tha good work
Thank you for your comment🙏🙏🙏
you welcome 😉😉😉
Nice invention ❤🎉 1:33
My friend you are batting 1000 000 thanks
🙏
Хорошо ещё бы послушать как он звучит.
I watched the whole video hoping there would be a comparison at the end and there was nothing.
I never heard of "Neodym" before but I have heard of Neodymium :p
You have a new follower...Thanks for this ultra intersting video! One question...I have all Paper cone speakers and some really vintage old kind of glue............Is really important to use some really good "paint Thinner" do you have some more detail about a good product? it is a acetone or other type? will be really helpfull to me....thanks and congratulation for what you do for all the Hifi community....Ivan
It really works 😁
You have not tested the sound of both speaker differences and what good sound will it bring? We
want to hear the sound difference of both the original and the modified one. How is that?
Me gusta la estetica de apariencia más potente pero debio haber hecho pruebas de sonodo en ambas
If it was better why havent subwoofer makers making them from factory? I think i have heard tweeters made with neo magnets. In my opinion must make the price jump and the sensitivity go down due to over coming a strength of the magnets? Just ideas. Nice work tho
Nice
🙏
Would have been interesting to use a piece of the green magnetic field viewing film to put over and see what the field lines look like before putting the cap pole piece back on!!! Additionally Would have been interesting to drill a vent hole through the pole piece for ventilation and cooling the voice coil as the dustcap looked like it was not permeable to ventilation. No ventilation between the dustcap and pole piece means you have an enclosed cavity that seems like it might hinder the Xmax excursion and truncate the SPL capability.
Also adding an effect known as speaker compression.
If you just want a stronger field, and there is a nice big core like that, and there is room in the enclosure - all you have to do is add magnets to the back or sides. That will strengthen the field. With surface prep, cyanoacrylate (super glue) would be fine. Just need to think a little about the field. You can get donut or wide disk neodymium magnets too. Or just double up with another copy of the existing ferrite magnet. Flux linkage is a thing. But with a stronger field, you could exceed excursion limits. While you were machining, you could have cut recesses for the magnets for friction fit.
"Pro": Only in this case, the voice coil works cooler because it is much more exposed to the weather outside.
"Cons": The final sound is totally changed due to a drier, more annoying sound, since ceramic magnets are preferred par excellence for their magnetic damping capacity to sudden and repetitive changes in the magnetic polarity of the voice coil. To solve this defect with Neodymium magnets, another diameter of voice coil must be used that resonates with the woofer casing, using a more robust casing to avoid harmonic fluctuations produced by the bending of a weaker casing which is not structurally prepared to withstand large magnitude torsion.
You should also consider changing the cone material to a much stiffer and thinner one or use another type of cone material that is much softer than the original and thicker.
Changing the permanent ceramic magnet for a neodymium one in a speaker with these characteristics, just like that, only worsens the final sound and good results are not obtained if its structural manufacturing characteristics are not considered.
If you're upgrade is better, it should be popular by now. But for me, ferrite magnets are better, that's why it was commonly used.
Because of this project you've got a new subscriber here sir. May I add some suggestions if you may on the magnets installed. How about you drilled a 2mm deep pocket for each neodym to seat on aside from gluing it down and also drilling four bolt holes around the base for a bolts and nuts to go through from basket all the way to the back as clamping so if ever the glue gets dull none of the individual parts would move around and gets misaligned. I would love to see a bigger version of this project (a 12" or 15" maybe😄). Great contents sir 👍
Ja geil :)
Thank you 🥰
👌👍👏
🙏🙏🙏
I just want those magnets for my collection…. But I’m probably gonna try this out with some small speakers If it’s worth it and I don’t just suck at doing it I’ll use the 5 1inch cylinder neos I got on a nice sub.
They also Have Magnetic shield speakers for which takes a low imput and gives you amazing sound 😊
Just when was gonna say man I can do this and then he pops with oh this has to be machine lmmfao ok everyone has a lil tiny machine in the kitchen drawer lol but thank you for showing us how to remove everything
if you have watched the video carefully, you will notice that if you replace the ferrite with a neodymium of the same height, you will not need a machining machine in your kitchen drawer 😁😁😁
Good ❤❤
Exelent....!!!!
Thank you my friend, it's really nice to get nice words after sharing a video that takes me a lot of time.
Thank you 🙏
И что? Результат то какой? Что изменилось? Если ничего не переделывать он тоже играет!!! Смысл переделки?
what benefits does this have? Am I wrong in thinking that the voicecoil should be changed as well, in order to allow more travel. I dont really no what Im talking about but are neodymium magnets primarily used to make a smaller speaker more efficient than had it used a ferrite magnet?
Came for vid but totally stayed for late 80'd maybe early 90's arcade music!
👍👍👌👌
Great JOB. WHAT did you use to lose the old clue?
everything is mentioned on video
Bagus video anda disertakan tulisan barang2 yang diqunakan... video hanya tunjuk apa yang anda lakukan beserta alunan muzik..
Nice 🎉🎉
Thank you 🙏
Shouldn't the magnet be closer to the coil? The old magnet was very close to the coil. I respect your experiments.
Result = less clear midrange + more deep bass.
Thank you
Interesting modification. I wonder how much the driver's t/s parameters changed with the change of magnet? A stronger magnet will result in Qes and therefore Qts going down. Fs will probably go do slightly, not because of the magnet, but because of the additional glue, which adds a slight bit of mass to the cone. Room EQ Wizard (free software) and a simple impedance jig can be used to measure the parameters of the original driver and the upgraded one for comparison purposes.
TS parameters certainly changed, not only because the magnet have been more strong, also because the old ferrite magnet create a small closed space behind the cone assembly, now with neodym magnet the cone becomes free to air on back, the result: the midrange becomes clear and soft , and the bass becomes strong, because i feel more bass power on my hands when i tested the driver.
@@homemade_audio The increased bass power could also be caused by a reduction in BL, which will lead to more output around the driver's resonance frequency. The best way to determine what impact the change has had on the driver is to run an impedance sweep on the unchanged one and compare it to an impedance sweep of the changed one. If the impedance peak for the changed driver is lower and narrower, then BL has gone down.
@@homemade_audio
It moves more easily, but dust also enters more easily and can damage the speaker winding
@@homemade_audioyeah I love it.. upload sound comparison in wav format
Test the sound and see which is beter before and after upgrade.
Awesome
Faltou fazer o teste prático !
Bon boulot, mais pourquoi pas un moustiquaire autour les magnètes pour proteger la bobine contre la poussiere?
Produit le haut parleur plus de décibels maintenant?
Awesome work clearly a steady skilled hand. Extremely impressive making difficult skilled work look easy but i wish you had hooked it up after and shown that it still functions.
No sir, it's not my job to show something false to my followers, the video on the beginning is real not a fake, the driver still working good like before but with more bass and soft midrange response.
You have to see the video again.
I think when u change magnet to speaker is change vocal or music in speaker maybe but bass is same as before i think that created to do this perfomance dont loose time to change magnet is not big different is about ohm watt connection speakers to amplifier
NOW... make a video demonstrating how it is better, woofs more, sounds better, etc! PLEASE!!
What do you use? Acetone or ipa isopropyl alcohol
Upgraded???
Maybe just swapped out. But still cool.
Muy bueno solo cerraría entre imanes para que no le entrará migre a la bobina y pueda empeorar el audio
Como modificar altavoz?..🤔
Comprando un torno industrial 🤑
Cool
Que uso para ablandar el pegamento del cono ?
Water ?
👍
Nice work done. I think you should check first with Guas Meter what the reading of orginal Barium magnet in core perifery. what the gaus value get after Neody.. magnet. Now does it require more Watt poer to drive the spaeker. In what terms it better perform.
does neodymium Magnet make speaker sound better or it is just a cliche?
why not put the magnet closer to coil for stonger effect?
In some instances the magnetic field can work against dependent upon placement.
The Yolk which he machined is moving the field to the desired location.
How did you do to center the new magnetic assembly?
Better to have all of the coil within the magnetic field for the sake of efficiency.
از همکاریتون خیلی متشکرم یاد گرفتم چه جور میتوانم آهنربای بلندگو را در بیارم خیلی خیلی متشکرم از شما
Thank you, you welcome 👍
que produto você usou para remover cola do alto falante, ?
Acétone
Ahí debió de sustituir el diámetro de la bobina para tener más efecto, lógico suben las teslas sube la fuerza resultante con la misma corriente que quedó
Will the impedance increase due to the stronger magnetic fields?
Changing the magnet will change all the t/s parameters of the speaker. The speaker will perform compeletely differently if the magnet power is not calculated correctly.
Yes i agree, this video is to show you how to make a speaker driver rather than changing magnet.
You have also lost a huge heat sink with the old magnet. Worthless modification
@@castuart81 think about the heat source and it surrounding before and after the mod.. you have here direct convection with more air.
don't forget, anilco speaker were built that way. this mod is an overall improvement over the ferrite one...
It's cool, of course, but what are you going to do with the garbage that got into the gap from the magnets?
Beim lautsprecher hersteller werden die magneten doch immer unter einem speziellen Verfahren magnetisiert oder ? Wäre mir neu wahllos irgendwelche magneten da ran zu knallen
Neodymium is more magnetic but in less range,used for tweeters and midrange
确实好很多
I really want to try this on 12" sub, it looks super cool and badass.
but neodymium magnets are expensive here😑😑
8 pieces 20x10mm neodymium cost more than the sub it self and that is the small one the properly sized one is gonna cost 2~3x the sub
What is the solvent applied with the syringe ?
And what does the new speaker sound like compared to the original?
Yes. It's not easy to get a good basse fréquences response from first test, this fabric elastic suspensions sounds good from first day, the sound is recorded based on zoom h2n.
@@homemade_audio and I didn't see any sound samples in this video that is all. thanks.
Seems like a lot of effort for nothing - but isn’t that what hobbies are all about 😊
Thank you
Was the newly made piece also made of iron?
Yes
А вот нафига ? Хоть бы чувствительность до и после померили , не говоря уж а силе магнитного поля в зазоре .. да и для бассового динамика не нужна большая магнитная индукция в зазоре , а для сч звена неодим не приветствется тк его поле менее однородное чем у феррита или самого тру аудиофильского alnico сплава .. единственное почему применяют неодим в динамиказ это уменьшение массы и габаритов , но тут наоборот увеличение
Просто для контента. Разумеется, делать такое всерьёз это полный бред.
Questions: 1st, why didn't you clean the basket entirely before (!) installing the magnets and the rear plate? 2nd, why didn't you measure the TSP's before and after the modification? Only these would give you predictable response in a certain enclosure. 3rd, why did you use just 8 magnets instead of 12, or possibly 16? There appears to be much more space for them!