Run it a little bit and see if the compression comes up. Very little time and effort invested to find out if it really is toast. Those are very tough engines. Love the flatfender series.
So there are a few issues with your methods. First, don't put plugs back in the cylinder you just tested. Makes the starter work harder against compression and also means the engine is turning at a slower RPM each time you do this. By the time you reached #4 your battery was weak and the starter was fighting the compression of 3 cylinders. Notice that the manual states the PSI at a given RPM. It's a certainty that your test on #4 was not at the same RPM as #1. Second, open the throttle plate and prop it open with a screw driver. Or better yet, remove the carb altogether since you're probably going to have to rebuild it anyway. You want maximum incoming airflow into the engine for a compression test. With the PSI you have on the first 3 cylinders this engine will certainly run right now. Fire it up, get some heat cycles into it, and test it again and I'm sure #4 will improve. Don't spend anymore money on it until you hear it run because there's also a possibility of a spun bearing and rod knock on the bottom end.
Run it ...get it Hot...a few times..then See... Pluss your battery was getting weaker..you can hear it...pluss I would leave All the plugs out...for the whole test.. Your the Jeep Dude...Run..It!!!!
A bleed down test will let you know where the compression is escaping to. Or carefully use compressed air in number 4 cylinder and listen for air escaping past the valves or into the engine case on the power stroke. For the 4th graders, remember the crank can move once you start to compress any cylinder so keep fingers etc clear if you don’t have the piston at the bottom of the stroke. But like everyone said, if it needs a freshen up anyway no harm trying to get it to fire?
Really enjoy the slow speed you are teaching us, explaining the thought process in a laid back way is very encouraging. Thank you for these troubleshooting skills you are projecting with our part time hobby!
My experience tells me to pull the valve cover and pull the head. When I started working on my 45 MB it started, ran, and bang. A piece of piston broke off and that piece did not compress and smashed into the head and broke my original to the engine Head. I wound up going thru 2 heads until I got one that would work. Pull the Head to inspect. It will make good RUclips content.
Also funny that after all these years living in the west, you still say pool instead of pull. You can take the boy out of PA, but you can't take the PA out of the boy.
Sometimes if the engine has been sitting or has been stuck the rings get stuck and can't expand to seal off the cylinder. If you run it a bit and burn out some of the carbon buildup it may loosen the rings and allow them to seal again. You probably already know all this anyway but I thought id share in case you didn't. Something else to try is substitute a quart of ATF type F with your engine oil and run it for a few hundred miles and change it. Ive had that trick work a few times on motors with low compression.
I have 2 observations that may be helpful. 1.The engine rotation speed seemed slower as you went along . 2. At 16:44. That far right valve looked like it was closing really slowly. Perhaps a bit of penetrating oil in the #4 intake tract cound free the valve up in the guide.
I’ve done the rice or water down the carb to break up build up on the valves as the engine was running and have also just poured gas and oil mix in the cylinder and set it on fire and let heat up things. I’ve either had good result or no results. These were all old engines that have sat forever and and were believed to be no good anyway. All old timer tricks on engines that were old as dirt.
This video reminded me about the time I got a flat tire on my 73 Country Squire station wagon while off roading in DFW at 360 and Old Man Ed answered my CB call for help with his 42 Ford GPW and aired my tire with a Spark Plug Tire Inflator from his Jeep. He said it was a military issued tool. How a Spark Plug Tire Inflator works ruclips.net/video/jTTVVmV_--s/видео.htmlsi=bzNI8Qgfy5ULwZKm
My gut says WD/ATF/MMO the piston daily while putting the ignition and fuel systems together. Fire it up and get it warm a few times. The compression ring is siezed and needs a few shocks to loosen it up. 70 percent of factory isn't all that bad; it's not like it's a high performance engine in any case. If it's only 40hp max? That means it's still got 37 of them left!!
I’ve been watching for awhile on this particular project. Being that it had been stuck/seized. #4 was most likely the stuck cylinder this could account for the lower compression in that cylinder. Also like others have said. Your test is not entirely accurate. I do agree with getting it running and see if #4 comes back around. The rings may be a little sticky in the piston and a couple heat cycles might loosen them up. I definitely can’t wait to see the next video on this.
Either way you gotta pull the head to see what’s up. Just run it. If it sounds like hell after 20 seconds, shut it off and get ready to start tearing it down. If it starts running decent, 🙌🍺
If the engine is original, rebuild it. If not, Take the Best Body, frame, the New Engine/Trans/Transfer Case and make one Awesome Flat Fender from all your parts !
I like to see people explaining the details of a project... yes at times in the video I myself was getting anxious and just wanted to see the results. But then I remembered that not everyone one knows this information and maybe it'll help educate someone. Maybe there is a 4th grader watching this who loves jeeps. And now knows just a little more. And today at school will be the cool kid talking about what he learned to his other 4th grader jeep buddies.
Do a cylinder leak down test... see if air is coming out the crank case, (rings) or the intake/carburetor (intake valve ) Or the tail pipe ( exhaust valve )
Run it a little bit and see if the compression comes up. Very little time and effort invested to find out if it really is toast. Those are very tough engines. Love the flatfender series.
try dumping some marvel mystery oil in the #4 hole and see if it frees up the rings.
It’s a mystery. lol.
Sticky rings maybe, I would pick up some Yamaha Ring Free and try that. A leak down test would verify if it’s rings or possibly burnt valves.
So there are a few issues with your methods. First, don't put plugs back in the cylinder you just tested. Makes the starter work harder against compression and also means the engine is turning at a slower RPM each time you do this. By the time you reached #4 your battery was weak and the starter was fighting the compression of 3 cylinders. Notice that the manual states the PSI at a given RPM. It's a certainty that your test on #4 was not at the same RPM as #1. Second, open the throttle plate and prop it open with a screw driver. Or better yet, remove the carb altogether since you're probably going to have to rebuild it anyway. You want maximum incoming airflow into the engine for a compression test. With the PSI you have on the first 3 cylinders this engine will certainly run right now. Fire it up, get some heat cycles into it, and test it again and I'm sure #4 will improve. Don't spend anymore money on it until you hear it run because there's also a possibility of a spun bearing and rod knock on the bottom end.
Get it running and see if that cylinder maybe loosens up whatever is clogging the rings
Yeah a few running. Heat cycles should loosen up the rings
Run it ...get it Hot...a few times..then See...
Pluss your battery was getting weaker..you can hear it...pluss I would leave All the plugs out...for the whole test..
Your the Jeep Dude...Run..It!!!!
Bet it'll run fine once you get some heat into it. Hopefully just a stuck ring.
"It's it a waste of time? Yeah. But is it fun? Definitely!" Best quote ever!!
I’m thinking you get it running and those rings on number four are going to free up
Love the Flat Fender
A bleed down test will let you know where the compression is escaping to. Or carefully use compressed air in number 4 cylinder and listen for air escaping past the valves or into the engine case on the power stroke. For the 4th graders, remember the crank can move once you start to compress any cylinder so keep fingers etc clear if you don’t have the piston at the bottom of the stroke. But like everyone said, if it needs a freshen up anyway no harm trying to get it to fire?
Woo! More Flat Fender!!!
Really enjoy the slow speed you are teaching us, explaining the thought process in a laid back way is very encouraging. Thank you for these troubleshooting skills you are projecting with our part time hobby!
My experience tells me to pull the valve cover and pull the head. When I started working on my 45 MB it started, ran, and bang. A piece of piston broke off and that piece did not compress and smashed into the head and broke my original to the engine Head. I wound up going thru 2 heads until I got one that would work. Pull the Head to inspect. It will make good RUclips content.
Best robot dance ever!! Totally enjoying this Flat Fender series.
Perfect for pulling it, dingle ball hone, valve lap and running....
These videos are perfect timing, as I'm working on my 48. I hope you replace the rings so I can see how you get the head off!
Great video topic and great comments in the comment section. Keep up the videos 👏
That’s my upcoming weekend right there!!!! Excellent!!
I would fire it up. You might have bore taper and a ring is stuck in the piston groove. If you give it an Italian tune up it might come around.
That’s right Fred. Vice Grip Garage that Go Devil. Just rebuild the fuel make it happener. Then a feller might have a goin to town rig.
I might've missed it but when testing make sure the throttle is held wide open and the exhaust pipe is not plugged.
Great basic info Fred and very clearly explained.
Also funny that after all these years living in the west, you still say pool instead of pull. You can take the boy out of PA, but you can't take the PA out of the boy.
Sometimes if the engine has been sitting or has been stuck the rings get stuck and can't expand to seal off the cylinder. If you run it a bit and burn out some of the carbon buildup it may loosen the rings and allow them to seal again. You probably already know all this anyway but I thought id share in case you didn't. Something else to try is substitute a quart of ATF type F with your engine oil and run it for a few hundred miles and change it. Ive had that trick work a few times on motors with low compression.
I have 2 observations that may be helpful. 1.The engine rotation speed seemed slower as you went along . 2. At 16:44. That far right valve looked like it was closing really slowly. Perhaps a bit of penetrating oil in the #4 intake tract cound free the valve up in the guide.
I heard to open throttle wide open when checking compression.
You are excellent @ explaining what you are doing to all! The compression over-all a little underwhelming, no?
ive never see a CJ2 or 3 with a Jeep 2.5 with efi thats a combo id try just to keep it all jeep
Maybe running it will knock those rings loose?
My favorite engine swap I've seen is a Mazda rotary in a flattie
Spay a little mystery oil in each cylinder crank it over then let it sit a day or so. Could be sticky valves or piston rings
Run it the rings may come around after a heat cycle or two. They are tuff.
Like others said: penetrating oil, get it running, and drive around a bit.
Great video, like others said, put a little Marvel down that hole. I marvel at the mysteries that stuff solves. Love this series, good job. 😂
I’ve done the rice or water down the carb to break up build up on the valves as the engine was running and have also just poured gas and oil mix in the cylinder and set it on fire and let heat up things. I’ve either had good result or no results. These were all old engines that have sat forever and and were believed to be no good anyway. All old timer tricks on engines that were old as dirt.
Get it hot and make it work. The compression will come back they always do!
I would try to start the engine Fred, warm it up if possible, and then recheck the compression
Razzel, Dazzel, Brazzell from OHI.
Has anyone put a Pontiac Iron Duke four-cylinder engine in one??
I enjoy your show.
This video reminded me about the time I got a flat tire on my 73 Country Squire station wagon while off roading in DFW at 360 and Old Man Ed answered my CB call for help with his 42 Ford GPW and aired my tire with a Spark Plug Tire Inflator from his Jeep. He said it was a military issued tool.
How a Spark Plug Tire Inflator works
ruclips.net/video/jTTVVmV_--s/видео.htmlsi=bzNI8Qgfy5ULwZKm
Great content! Are you interested in sponsorship on vehicle lighting stuff?
Hey Fred when are you and dirt head Dave gonna get together again for cheap truck challenge or a trail ride?
My gut says WD/ATF/MMO the piston daily while putting the ignition and fuel systems together. Fire it up and get it warm a few times. The compression ring is siezed and needs a few shocks to loosen it up. 70 percent of factory isn't all that bad; it's not like it's a high performance engine in any case. If it's only 40hp max? That means it's still got 37 of them left!!
The little engine that couldn't. But have fun.
Suck..Squeeze...Bang...Blow.... gotta have all those things for the engine to make itself useful.
How far has Fred gone down to.
With 25 psi it can never be a "stuck" valve not closing. That would always be 0 psi.
Get it running on 3, and let it warm up. Could just be a stuck piston ring is all, and some time and heat will fix it.
I’ve been watching for awhile on this particular project. Being that it had been stuck/seized. #4 was most likely the stuck cylinder this could account for the lower compression in that cylinder. Also like others have said. Your test is not entirely accurate. I do agree with getting it running and see if #4 comes back around. The rings may be a little sticky in the piston and a couple heat cycles might loosen them up.
I definitely can’t wait to see the next video on this.
Could be a stuck ring. Maybe it will break loose. Fingers crossed!
Probably should adjust the valves.
Fred you need an M151A1 MUTT
Either way you gotta pull the head to see what’s up. Just run it. If it sounds like hell after 20 seconds, shut it off and get ready to start tearing it down. If it starts running decent, 🙌🍺
Vakve springs are upside down
that is not a waste of time, you have to try to get it to run even if you already plan to swap it out
Time for a ford v8 flatfender!
Why did you put the #1 plug in.
i was getting excited to drive it!
Nailed it
Throttle should be held open full while cranking.
You're really milking this one!! Video # 1,209,000 haha love the show brotha!!
Get the engine running and run a Berryman Products 2611 Intake Valve and Combustion Chamber Cleaner and see what happens.
LS time ! 😃
If the engine is original, rebuild it.
If not, Take the Best Body, frame, the New Engine/Trans/Transfer Case and make one Awesome Flat Fender from all your parts !
Jimmy Nylond may have the answer!
Dude!!! Stuck ring? Get running, puts some heat in her!!! Then a hemi swap!!! Lol!!!✌️
Keep plugging away at it
Some of your vavle springs are upside-down.
Seafoam my friend
head gasket maybe
that is a possibility too
It would be blasphemy but a mercedes om616 or an om617 would be cool
Are you blind or just play a blind guy on you tube?
There's a whoooole lotta experts down here in the comments
Was this video made for 4th graders? “This is an engine, it’s made of metal..” 😆
yes it was reggie. gotta teach those kids how much fun jeeps are
I like to see people explaining the details of a project... yes at times in the video I myself was getting anxious and just wanted to see the results. But then I remembered that not everyone one knows this information and maybe it'll help educate someone. Maybe there is a 4th grader watching this who loves jeeps. And now knows just a little more. And today at school will be the cool kid talking about what he learned to his other 4th grader jeep buddies.
Do a cylinder leak down test... see if air is coming out the crank case, (rings) or the intake/carburetor (intake valve ) Or the tail pipe ( exhaust valve )
Just rebuild it
75% good or 3 quarters. That's a pass.
leak it down fred you're better that that
no bueno!
Yeah, a Japanese motor would be inappropriate, to say the least....
Rather than fix the problem, you want to keep fooling around with a broken engine....
Makes good content 🤷🏼♂️
That's the fun part! And sometimes the rings can be dry seized on the grooves and work loose with a few heat cycles.