Chris, you are correct there, most anything you need to do you can find out how to do so on RUclips. Maybe lots of different ways to do the same thing and maybe some wrong ways. Social media does have some benefits. 😁👍🏻
I had the exact same issue, got fed up repairing my that I just removed the spindle lock all together and now just use a pair of spanner’s. Works a treat
Great video Iv owner this router four only six weeks went to use it yesterday and had the same problem but even worse! The lock isn’t even stoping the cutter from moving so I can’t even remove the cutter! Taking it back to screw fix this week! Six weeks and only used four times
Hi what I realised was …. When I first got my router I was over tightening the collet thinking it has to be really tight. I also found I was not pressing in the button fully The over tightening and not pushing the button in fully meant that I was forcing it and causing it to slip and then damage the part. Since releasing this and changing the part I have had no issues. I would say it’s not the greatest method of stopping the motor armour from turning but I guess they can’t put a bar through the armour like they do on larger routers as it just is not big enough. I’m sure wherever you purchased from will replace or refund. Cheers
Ironically you don’t actually need that part at all, I did exactly the same thing to my first T4 router.... simply removing that whole mounting section for the spindle lock leaves access to the flat sections of the spindle. Then you can just use the two spanner’s provided in the box to tighten/loosen your collet. Same method as when you use the router out of the plunge base for die grinding or carving.
Yea I did think about that but I just fancied using the part as it was cheap, I was surprised how cheap it was. If it would have been more expensive I would have used spanner’s as you suggest. Must admit I never have taken mine out of the base to use on its own. Must admit forgot it could be taken out and used 😬🙈 cheers 👍🏻
Can you help me please I have the same router and have over titeend the spindle with a bit on know I can't take it of and it just keeps spinning any help how to remove it kind regards
Cheers, agree , I was surprised how cheap parts are! Bit of a click bait thumbnail 😬🙈 need to get more views somehow. Mind you I guess I need better content. The router table is good, however.... I purchased the Trend PRT (professional router table) thinking it must be the best as it’s ‘professional’. I was new to routers when I purchased it in 2013. What I would say is the reason it is considered professional is that it is designed with tradesmen in mind. Tradesmen that want to take a router table to a customer site. So it is designed to be portable with legs that detach. In hindsight the trend WRT (Workshop router table) is what I really needed. It has a larger table bed, and more steady. That said the PRT has a smaller footprint in my workshop and can have its legs taken off and stored, the WRT is larger and if space is a premium perhaps PRT is an option. One thing I have learnt about router tables..... You see lots of info and designs that have router lifts in them. If you have a Trend router like the T10 or T11 in a trend router table it has a built in fine height adjuster. No need for a router lift table from another manufacturer. I would say if you get a trend router then get a trend router table, if in a workshop and you have the space then a WRT. I want to change to a WRT table from Trend however don’t want to spend the £300 for a WRT at the moment. I might do a review video of my router table 🤔
@@DIYJase i was looking at record power workshop table with sled,its 500 pound,near 600 so im doing my research before i make the plunge,no pun intended
I do not like two things with this router: 1. Stock Base is off center, unless you are lucky to have good one (I had 3 of them all off center). 2. On/Off switch brakes off over time (very fragile plastic, actual switch is inside in upper part of body, why not placing simple on/off switch there, like Makita done).
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With RUclips for guidance and online shopping it’s a golden age for fixing stuff.
Chris, you are correct there, most anything you need to do you can find out how to do so on RUclips. Maybe lots of different ways to do the same thing and maybe some wrong ways. Social media does have some benefits. 😁👍🏻
I had the exact same issue, got fed up repairing my that I just removed the spindle lock all together and now just use a pair of spanner’s. Works a treat
That’s a good idea 👍🏻
Best router money can buy
Been looking at buying one of those.. Looks good.
Great video Iv owner this router four only six weeks went to use it yesterday and had the same problem but even worse! The lock isn’t even stoping the cutter from moving so I can’t even remove the cutter! Taking it back to screw fix this week! Six weeks and only used four times
Hi what I realised was ….
When I first got my router I was over tightening the collet thinking it has to be really tight.
I also found I was not pressing in the button fully
The over tightening and not pushing the button in fully meant that I was forcing it and causing it to slip and then damage the part.
Since releasing this and changing the part I have had no issues.
I would say it’s not the greatest method of stopping the motor armour from turning but I guess they can’t put a bar through the armour like they do on larger routers as it just is not big enough.
I’m sure wherever you purchased from will replace or refund.
Cheers
Really clear explanation. Thank you.
Nico, many thanks very kind of you 👍🏻
Ironically you don’t actually need that part at all, I did exactly the same thing to my first T4 router.... simply removing that whole mounting section for the spindle lock leaves access to the flat sections of the spindle. Then you can just use the two spanner’s provided in the box to tighten/loosen your collet.
Same method as when you use the router out of the plunge base for die grinding or carving.
Yea I did think about that but I just fancied using the part as it was cheap, I was surprised how cheap it was. If it would have been more expensive I would have used spanner’s as you suggest. Must admit I never have taken mine out of the base to use on its own. Must admit forgot it could be taken out and used 😬🙈 cheers 👍🏻
That's what I did too. I did consider ordering a new part, but stuck with spanners because of the flimsy construction.
Must admit I agree it is a bit flimsy.
Can you help me please I have the same router and have over titeend the spindle with a bit on know I can't take it of and it just keeps spinning any help how to remove it kind regards
I just took the bit out and flattened it back with a hammer :)
if you sent that for repair,they prob charge 60pound for that.madness. whats the router table like,any good
Cheers, agree , I was surprised how cheap parts are!
Bit of a click bait thumbnail 😬🙈 need to get more views somehow. Mind you I guess I need better content.
The router table is good, however....
I purchased the Trend PRT (professional router table) thinking it must be the best as it’s ‘professional’. I was new to routers when I purchased it in 2013.
What I would say is the reason it is considered professional is that it is designed with tradesmen in mind. Tradesmen that want to take a router table to a customer site. So it is designed to be portable with legs that detach.
In hindsight the trend WRT (Workshop router table) is what I really needed. It has a larger table bed, and more steady.
That said the PRT has a smaller footprint in my workshop and can have its legs taken off and stored, the WRT is larger and if space is a premium perhaps PRT is an option.
One thing I have learnt about router tables.....
You see lots of info and designs that have router lifts in them. If you have a Trend router like the T10 or T11 in a trend router table it has a built in fine height adjuster. No need for a router lift table from another manufacturer. I would say if you get a trend router then get a trend router table, if in a workshop and you have the space then a WRT. I want to change to a WRT table from Trend however don’t want to spend the £300 for a WRT at the moment.
I might do a review video of my router table 🤔
@@DIYJase i was looking at record power workshop table with sled,its 500 pound,near 600 so im doing my research before i make the plunge,no pun intended
I do not like two things with this router:
1. Stock Base is off center, unless you are lucky to have good one (I had 3 of them all off center).
2. On/Off switch brakes off over time (very fragile plastic, actual switch is inside in upper part of body, why not placing simple on/off switch there, like Makita done).