Watched this video couple years ago when I had no wheel. Thank God I found it again because I finally got a wheel. Just bought a real hydro, glued a switch in and wired it to a button. works fine thanks 👍
Thanks mate - i ended up soldering to B as i wanted to use in Forza as well as Dirt Rally. Your disassembly was really helpful though. Good to see handbrake and shifter on the left side, which is actually the right side ;)
Also Some tips for others: I used standard RCA AV cable - low profile and flexible, less likely to break under stress and already has a plug as a bonus. I wanted to keep buttons on wheel so kept wiring central as possible so back of casing would fit back on. Also press glue down before fully set to keep low profile.
Thanks for the vid, even all of these years later. This is the same way it was done, back in the day, for dirt 3 on the ps3. Now, there's a 3d printable ebrake that will press the far right red button, ('o' for ps3), on the old style logitech shifter, (g25, g27), and it works well; you dial in its feel with elastics.
Thank you so much! Followed this tutorial and I managed to make it work finally. Been struggling with Forza Horizon 4 and it's multi usb support bug.. now it's perfect!
I mapped my paddle up shift for my ebrake. And made "O" my upshift . I usually play with the h pater shifter and pulling on that lever felt more natural. One day il get a e brake
Great video. Really helpful. I'm wondering if you think that is possible to use a trigger from a PS4 controller as the new "R3 button" . I'm trying to get a more control over the handbrake instead of either off or on. What do you think?
Thanks bro you just made my 11yr old son happy happy. He's been wanting the E-brake on his G29 now I can hook him up thanks again every helpful video ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Very slick video tutorial mate 👍. I just cant seem to get the wheel back on flush. The right paddle not hitting the switch. I’ve shaved abit off the plastic where the wire presses against but still no good. More shaving i guess.
Cheers, yeah sometimes the wire will pinch on some of the plastic. Maybe try a small piece of paper in the suspected area, it should get an imprint of where it's contacting.
@@KrishneilGarib Managed to put it back together after shaving the glue and plastic. So after some mad drifting sessions the wheel started to randomly bring up the menu when more then 1 full tun occured. Opened it up and noticed one of the solder points eventually loosened up the original solder point. This caused all sorts of random stuff from the wheel. So, back to the drawing board. I might try again on the spare G29 and pay extra attention to the glue spots
I did this hand brake mod and I accidentally ripped all the wires out of the connector when I was pulling the hub out lol I guess I forgot to be careful just gotta repin the connector now🤦♂️
So what if you don’t do all these with the wheel and just wire the handbrake with a second classic controller in the X button? I mean you can always use 2 controllers as one, 1 the wheel and 2 the controller as a co pilot. That requires the set up in the controller, I mean we must Disable the AUTO SLEEP. What do you think?
No, it doesn't work on dirt rally 2.0 on ps4. I remember that it worked on mudrunner because that game let you use a wheel at the same time as a controller.
i just finished my g29 today . same like urs now need to do that handbrake XD last part to go thank you very helpful ! but i noticed my wheel is broken from inside any tips on fixing it i mean the plastic that near motors ? glue can help ?to make it stronger or any advice ?
2MaFiA2 thanks buddy! Which plastic broke? I'm not sure where you mean. Maybe try a strong plastic glue. Its usually available at your local hardware store. A 2 part mix, they are usually very strong. Give it a shot! All the best.
I think you're referring to the bearing carrier, it typically cracks. I've had to order a replacement on eBay to fix mine. Have to be careful to not be too hard pulling/pushing on the wheel. Rotation is ok but maybe that can even be a cause. I tried Gorilla glue to hold mine together until finally having to replace. Good luck
I did the same but mine doesn't work anymore so I bought another one and it doesn't work anymore either I can play as long as I don't plug in the motherboard of the steering wheel itself and when I plug it in the connection is disconting and the 2 red lights burn please help
The wire you added, try joining the two ends together at the switch side and see if r3 gets activated. If it does you wired the switch incorrectly, just change the pins. If it doesn't then ur solder connection is not working or you put the wires on the wrong spot on the PCB.
Michael Baird Possibly could man! To be honest I didn't even think of doing that! but iirc it was quite deep in where u need to drill, so might need a long drill bit. Give it a shot when ur doing yours and let me know :)
FOSHEEMOTO If your new to soldering, I'd get some help from a friend that has some experience. You want to avoid putting down too much heat around any components on your pcb. If you know exactly where your soldering to (which in this case you do and its quite easy) you can always shield any other components near by, by using Kapton tape around the area as a shield. It deflects some of the heat. Generally though, it would take a big mess up to do damage.
Hey, depends on the circuit. The circuit this uses simply closes the loop so a momentary switch works great. The resistance circuit is different and honestly I couldn't easily locate, but thats where we could implement a resistive switch like a potentiometer.
Usually with the 3 inputs, one is common, one is normally open (NO) and one is normally closed (NC). You would want to use common and normally open (NO). Sometimes its labelled with NO or NC so check for that first. If there is no label, use a multimeter in continuity mode (the one where there is a buzzer sound if you join the two prongs of the meter together). Now find the combination on the switch where when you have it attached initially there is no buzzer sound, but when u press the button then it buzzes. Thats the two prongs you will need to wire in :) hope that helps.
couldnt you tap into the wires for the PCB? Like maybe use a volt meter and find which wire(s) have/dont power when pressed, then splice into that wire? so you wouldnt need to solder your control panel or have wires running throughout and not worry about the wires getting tangled or coming undone?
+OhhKey! Unfortunately no because the wires to the other PCB are just a resistive circuit or could possibly be a serial communication. Meaning multiple buttons exist on a single wire and the other PCB determines which button is pressed by measuring the resistance or the serial command being sent.
Luka Hyuga Unfortunately I haven't been able to trace the X button circuit to a full contact point. It is a resistance based button so multiple buttons activate on the one Circuit. Have a further look on RUclips someone may have already found the correct contact point for other buttons :) also keep in mind most games let you reassign buttons so R3 could become whatever X is usually. Goodluck!
KRaZi. Yeah that what i was thinking about. Another thing i need to ask you... do you think i can do the same thing with a PS3 controller? the some conection? because i am afraid that a can lose my wheel guarantee.
+Luka Hyuga I think you may find that the controller and the wheel may not always work at the same time (to the same account). Just like if you have two ps4 controllers, only one controller will function at a time in the game. You may need to test that part first but I do believe you will run into issues with games. If you are not confident doing the modification, maybe wait till your warranty is over then attempt it with a friend that has experience with electronics and soldering :)
KRaZi. i already tried to accelarate with the pedal and press X on the controller and it was a little delay to actual start processing the handbrake, it is not to much but i think i can handle that. The problem with the guarantee is that i have more 1 year and 8 months to end xD I have no problems to soldering and something like that but, imagina if the wheel as a problem and i active the guarantee (sorry for bad english xD) and the store recuse to repair it because they see that i already did a modificacion, thats my fear. A prefer to lose a 40€ controller than a 300€ wheel. I think you understand.
Andrew Benitez yes the hotglue should not mess up the board if u decide to remove. Again just be careful to not pull at it with a lot of force. It should just sort of peel away once u lift at an edge of the dried glue.
While trying this mod, a metal spring/clip/retainer fell out. Is it important, or can someone tell me where it goes? Kind of shaped like a Greek letter omega (Ω). Any help???
Hey, i messed up soldering to the r3 this time around i want to get it soldered by someone who has experience to the plus minus buttons, i saw your photo on where the pins are located, just wondering which exact terminals to solder onto, thanks!!
but if you solder to a button like R3 this has only two states and you can't action 10, 20, 30 or 90% of the handbrake no?, can't you solder to another analog button like the wheel for example?
That's correct. You would need a resistive switch or rotary dial to connect to your handbrake mechanism. For my purpose and many others I was wanting the on/off action that's usually used with a hydro handbrake in drifting. Rally is a different story where you may want a percentage of activation.
Would the selectable pins to wire into be the same on the thrustmaster tx? I will have to use a button on the d pad but they have 4 pins like your button does.
If its a tactile switch like I wired into then yeah should be the same.. if its a normal d pad, they usually work by resistance which is a different type of switch and is not easy to trace back to where it needs to be wired.
Bro how are You,look the cable of the pcb is broke what is the name of that cable.can i Buy it.is the cable from the green board inside between motors that go to the wheel motherboard of the button.please and thanks
I need. A video on the thrust master t248 for hard wiring the hand brake and shifter. Gonna try to hard wire an after market hand brake and logitech shift. Thrust master want $200 for their shift while Logitech shifter is only $50. I don't understand why its marked up so much smh
Hello, I would like to know if the connection will be in parallel, because I would like to use the button on the steering wheel and also the handbrake I hope you understand. thanks in advance
I think I cover this in the videos but for the actual steering wheel side I used a 2 core cable. Find one thats about 3mm to 5mm in diameter. Once that part is done, you can use either the same cable, or any speaker wire to do the handbrake side. The switch I use is a micro switch with lever. Check out all 3 videos in the series.
Tele-J THXRXPY If you are not confident with soldering, please get an experienced friend or a shop to do this for you. It's straight forward, but can become tricky and end up in a mess if you are new to soldering.
I accidentally ripped pulled to hard on the hub and ripped the wires out of the pins for the connector for the controller so now I gotta re pin it but no biggy
Im buying all the things I need from Amazon (soldering kit/wire/heat shrink tubing/and some sort of button) I’ll be fabricating the handbrake myself. I’m just not sure what wire to pick up. Any advice?
Hey man i messed up bad when i was running the wire through the center for hydro handbrake the motor assembly fell out now i beleive the wheel calibration for days do you know of a method to resset it, im panicking now my g923 is only few weeks old 😢 any help brother, thought id ask yourself you seemed very clued in thanks a heap
@@jmac7288 hi yes, I'm sorry I usually reply unlike most if I found a fix I'd post how it was done hate it when you see a problem and there's never a answer, I know it can be very helpful for those searching, But yes I got the wheel back in perfect I was in a panic it wouldn't allign true dead centre when I sat down and thought about it was dead simple to reassemble it, I wanted the wheel to be true dead centre again if it was out even a tooth it would eat my OCD or CDO the order it should be haha But all done and dusted if you need help I'm happy to walk you through recentering the wheel. Thanks for asking have a good day.
Just wriggle side to side it will come out. If its tight might need to super carefully use a flat head screwdriver to help pop the ends off. The plug should have little edges where u can do this.
Hello. I have a question. Did all the buttons worki normally after this modification? I read that shift paddles wont work when you mount it under R buttons. Is it true?
All buttons continue to work fine. You just have to ensure your wiring is nicely tucked. If the wires stop the housing from closing properly it stops buttons from working as there will be an unintended gap. So just have to make sure you take your time making sure ur not jamming/squashing wires.
Without knowing more about your handbrake I can't say. If its a USB handbrake it would have a USB controller built into it meaning the wires coming out as USB are data wires, not a simple switch wire. You would need to pull it apart and find the actual switch inside that is activated and wire that to the g29..
Having a slight issue.. So I wired it in turned it on and the handbrake won't work. It won't even register the r3 or L3 button I tried both. The handbrake was given to me with the wheel. A 4 core usb cable.. I joined the green and red and black and white when I soldered them in. Is that wrong?
That won't work. USB handbrakes require the data to be decoded. Tapping into the steering wheel buttons requires a normal switch with 2 prongs. If you read across the comments people have asked previously if a USB handbrake will work and the answer is always No. You have to wire in a switch manually.
I’m sorry for commenting 4 years after you made this but I’m having a problem: I did everything as shown in the video, I had no problems. And I tested the L3 button by touching the wires together before putting the wheel back on and it worked. But after mounting and screwing the wheel back on, the L3 button (which still clicks and connects both sides when activated), when clicked isn’t registered by the wheel anymore. I tested and found no shorts. It was working before but now it’s not. I’m worried that I could have been soldering it for too long, but if it was working then that could be it right?
The wired in side or the wheel L3? If its the wheel L3 i would reopen and make sure there isnt anything preventing the wheel casing from closing properly. If it is it will put a gap between the button and the pcb bpard which I had experienced. If the new connected wires aren't doing anything when touching together then maybe the wire got pinched somewhere? Very hard to help diagnose these issues without physically being there unfortunately. Hope you're able to solve it :)
Sorry I'm later than late but It could be the internal resistance added to the button circuit, I did my circle ⭕ button but if you hold the Ebrake for too long it resets the wheel because the pedal plate & Ebrake are shorting connecting through the frame I have them mounted on.. I took apart the Ebrake switch & isolated it from the frame, problem solved.
Hii everyone im a bit late to this vid but is there any special cable i need or i can use 2 cables from an old usb cable? And i have a momentary tactile switch 2 pins is that good for it ?
Hi mate..!! im thinking to use to B-button but i really dont know how i do it...have one cabel from ebrake to b ...but then twisted it on the pcb..??? please describe it for me..!
I am not sure where the b button main connector is. It wont work from the button itself because they are resistive type buttons. You will need to look for another guide to use that button as I haven't been able to trace where it goes to. Its easier to use the button I used and remap in game.
Peeter Jullinen This was my first though. Something as simple as a cable tie would clamp sufficiently. I’d dread having to remove all that glue should the mod ever need replaced.
Been a while since I did this, but where would the cable tie fasten against? There was limited space and the glue provides flexibility to route the wire where there was enough space for everything to close back together.
what Gauge wire did you use to wire it and would it be possible to wire it to the plus and minus buttons ? if so would you be able to make a video and is there a place to order pre built handbrakes for this? I lack a 3d printer
Nick Bates I used automotive 2 core wire from Jaycar. I think it's roughly 18gauge or smaller. It really doesnt matter what gauge you use in this application because it does not need to carry much current. Just make sure the total thickness is about 3mm so it fits through the centre of the wheel. The paddle shifter buttons are contact switches you can probably see in the video. They also have easy to tap into feet ao its basically the same process as what I did but to the larger contact switch. Won't really be any point for me personally to openit up just to wire it into those buttons right next to the ones I used.. also for the paddels as you would lose the gear shifting ability that some games use (Like Gran Turismo for paddle shift only cars). Hope that helps.
Nick Bates Oh and with the handbrake, there are tonnes of Hydro handbrakes on ebay. Thats what I'll be installing in the next video. You will need to put a switch on the handbrake but I will go through that when I get a chance to record.
KRaZi.TV thanks man that was extremely helpful this will be my first time modding but I think you misunderstood where I meant when I said plus and minus buttons I mean the ones to the right of the L3 button
Oh Sorry I did misunderstand... yes you can tap into the plus and minus buttons just like I have for the R3. They are also tactile switches. Have a look at the following pics.. this is the back of the board where you will solder into... red circles the plus minus buttons and blue is where the r3 is that I used in the video... Back: drive.google.com/open?id=0B_zPeLuEEQNHNktnVC0yTENoZFk . here is the front side of the pcb for reference too: drive.google.com/open?id=0B_zPeLuEEQNHaHBDUjB2Vk1WdXM . Hope that helps!
+KaiTheCnt There will be one in the near future when I find time. I have a hydro handbrake that I'll be replacing my current handle with and wiring it up. Also your previous comment, I'd prefer if you used my video as a guide to try it yourself :) Unfortunately, finding time to do my own things is hard enough let alone doing it for someone else!
Snoiperz Confirm that you soldered into the correct places on the bottom contacts of the switch. If you got solder accidentally to short the connection you may need to resolder. If you applied too much heat or hit another pcb component with the soldering iron then you may have a problem. Please recheck your work.
@@luuk3390 yes indeed i found out, i play assetto corsa, dirt rally now and gonna buy gran turismo sport to, and i'm saving for new gamer pc so i can play forza also :)
I did it myself on 'B' button and it works for 2 days. From rotating the wheel the wires gets somewhere disconnected. The solder and glue is ok.I change the wires and it works again 2 days and wires get again disconnected. due to wheel rotation the wires are twisting constantly and I think it can't really last longer. I am using 2 wires from usb cable. Any advise what wires to try for 3rd last try?
The buttons on the shifter don't work with the G29 :) I mention in the video that I am using the G27 Shifter with the G29 wheel. The G29 Shifter has no buttons on there.
Check the solder joint hasn't connected 2 of the button prongs causing it to always be on. You just have to check over your work by opening it up again.
Not with a USB handbrake. USB accepts digital data, so the handbrake has a board on it somewhere that translates the signal to work with a PC. Only way to use it is to open up your usb handbrake, run new 2 core wire from the handbrakes inbuilt switch and wire it again to the logitech.
Mono Chan I haven't tried myself if both controller and wheel can function in all games at the same time so you might have to do some testing before you take that approach :)
Maybe mention not hot glue gunning this mines fucked now , don’t hot glue gun this u won’t be getting it on and your unit mite get fucked trying to repair the mess
Update videos on the Hydro Install:
Part1 - ruclips.net/video/_TfRvaA2HWU/видео.html Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/HeWQ3okCwRc/видео.html
I love how smoothly you do everything, idk why.
Watched this video couple years ago when I had no wheel. Thank God I found it again because I finally got a wheel. Just bought a real hydro, glued a switch in and wired it to a button. works fine thanks 👍
does the wire sticking out of the front connect to a switch/button?
Thanks mate - i ended up soldering to B as i wanted to use in Forza as well as Dirt Rally. Your disassembly was really helpful though. Good to see handbrake and shifter on the left side, which is actually the right side ;)
Also Some tips for others: I used standard RCA AV cable - low profile and flexible, less likely to break under stress and already has a plug as a bonus. I wanted to keep buttons on wheel so kept wiring central as possible so back of casing would fit back on. Also press glue down before fully set to keep low profile.
Paul E Great tips! Cheers bud! Didn't even think to use an RCA cable! Had tonnes of spare ones around! Genius!
Hi mate! How did you sold it to the b button?? I want to sold it to the X button but i dont know how
@@KrishneilGarib po no ooä
Can you not use R3 in Forza?
Thanks for the vid, even all of these years later. This is the same way it was done, back in the day, for dirt 3 on the ps3. Now, there's a 3d printable ebrake that will press the far right red button, ('o' for ps3), on the old style logitech shifter, (g25, g27), and it works well; you dial in its feel with elastics.
Bro ur the only guy on RUclips that has what I need
one of the best video ive seen for this job thank you
Thank you so much! Followed this tutorial and I managed to make it work finally. Been struggling with Forza Horizon 4 and it's multi usb support bug.. now it's perfect!
I did this and now im good at drifting still using it until today thank you for the tip hope i can upgrade soon
Great job mate! I was just searching for something like this! Thank you!
i would like to thank you again i followed step by step and it works really well thanks
What wire did you use
I mapped my paddle up shift for my ebrake. And made "O" my upshift . I usually play with the h pater shifter and pulling on that lever felt more natural. One day il get a e brake
hmm.. i did think of making both paddles the handbrake but.. didnt thought on swithing the upshift there - great choice Sir. :D
Great video. Really helpful. I'm wondering if you think that is possible to use a trigger from a PS4 controller as the new "R3 button" . I'm trying to get a more control over the handbrake instead of either off or on. What do you think?
100% accurate. Thanks, great video.
Thanks bro you just made my 11yr old son happy happy. He's been wanting the E-brake on his G29 now I can hook him up thanks again every helpful video ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I know this is 2yr old now, but what an awesome comment to read! I have two sons myself
What an epic video extremely detailed
Should i weld in the same spot in the g920 for the xbox? or in another button?
Very slick video tutorial mate 👍. I just cant seem to get the wheel back on flush. The right paddle not hitting the switch. I’ve shaved abit off the plastic where the wire presses against but still no good. More shaving i guess.
Cheers, yeah sometimes the wire will pinch on some of the plastic. Maybe try a small piece of paper in the suspected area, it should get an imprint of where it's contacting.
@@KrishneilGarib Managed to put it back together after shaving the glue and plastic. So after some mad drifting sessions the wheel started to randomly bring up the menu when more then 1 full tun occured. Opened it up and noticed one of the solder points eventually loosened up the original solder point. This caused all sorts of random stuff from the wheel. So, back to the drawing board. I might try again on the spare G29 and pay extra attention to the glue spots
I did this hand brake mod and I accidentally ripped all the wires out of the connector when I was pulling the hub out lol I guess I forgot to be careful just gotta repin the connector now🤦♂️
Woops!! Should hopefully be easy to pin back in!
So what if you don’t do all these with the wheel and just wire the handbrake with a second classic controller in the X button? I mean you can always use 2 controllers as one, 1 the wheel and 2 the controller as a co pilot. That requires the set up in the controller, I mean we must Disable the AUTO SLEEP. What do you think?
Does this work
No, it doesn't work on dirt rally 2.0 on ps4. I remember that it worked on mudrunner because that game let you use a wheel at the same time as a controller.
Thanks mate, this vid was very usefull!
i just finished my g29 today . same like urs now need to do that handbrake XD last part to go thank you very helpful ! but i noticed my wheel is broken from inside any tips on fixing it i mean the plastic that near motors ? glue can help ?to make it stronger or any advice ?
2MaFiA2 thanks buddy! Which plastic broke? I'm not sure where you mean. Maybe try a strong plastic glue. Its usually available at your local hardware store. A 2 part mix, they are usually very strong. Give it a shot! All the best.
look at ur video bro at 8:22 u can see front left side plastic where is the motor but now i look there is metal holding it :S
I think you're referring to the bearing carrier, it typically cracks. I've had to order a replacement on eBay to fix mine. Have to be careful to not be too hard pulling/pushing on the wheel. Rotation is ok but maybe that can even be a cause. I tried Gorilla glue to hold mine together until finally having to replace. Good luck
I've got a custom wheel and I'm going to do what uve done as I struggle to use r3 as handbrake thanks
I did the same but mine doesn't work anymore so I bought another one and it doesn't work anymore either I can play as long as I don't plug in the motherboard of the steering wheel itself and when I plug it in the connection is disconting and the 2 red lights burn please help
Hey man, great video. I did everything as you did but for some reason my handbrake isnt working. Any tips? (R3 still functions on wheel)
The wire you added, try joining the two ends together at the switch side and see if r3 gets activated. If it does you wired the switch incorrectly, just change the pins. If it doesn't then ur solder connection is not working or you put the wires on the wrong spot on the PCB.
Hectic tutorial bro 👌
Where can I go and what type of wire should I use to connect the switch to the motherboard?
I dont want to fry my g920.
Thinking of doing this, could u not drill a bigger hole were u struggled to fit the wire through
Michael Baird Possibly could man! To be honest I didn't even think of doing that! but iirc it was quite deep in where u need to drill, so might need a long drill bit. Give it a shot when ur doing yours and let me know :)
KRaZi.TV ok man will let u know if I try it !!
KRaZi.TV can you mess up your pcb doing this
FOSHEEMOTO If your new to soldering, I'd get some help from a friend that has some experience. You want to avoid putting down too much heat around any components on your pcb. If you know exactly where your soldering to (which in this case you do and its quite easy) you can always shield any other components near by, by using Kapton tape around the area as a shield. It deflects some of the heat. Generally though, it would take a big mess up to do damage.
This might be day late dollar short but couldn’t you have used a potentiometer instead of a momentary switch for the hand brake?
Hey, depends on the circuit. The circuit this uses simply closes the loop so a momentary switch works great. The resistance circuit is different and honestly I couldn't easily locate, but thats where we could implement a resistive switch like a potentiometer.
👏👏👏👏👏nice, I wanted to know how to pull the A button wiring
I can't find the B button
Hi, a little bit late to comment but i hope you see it anyway. I have a button with 3 inputs for cables wich 2 of them should i use.
Tnx for reply
Usually with the 3 inputs, one is common, one is normally open (NO) and one is normally closed (NC). You would want to use common and normally open (NO). Sometimes its labelled with NO or NC so check for that first. If there is no label, use a multimeter in continuity mode (the one where there is a buzzer sound if you join the two prongs of the meter together). Now find the combination on the switch where when you have it attached initially there is no buzzer sound, but when u press the button then it buzzes. Thats the two prongs you will need to wire in :) hope that helps.
Krishneil Garib Thank you🤗
couldnt you tap into the wires for the PCB? Like maybe use a volt meter and find which wire(s) have/dont power when pressed, then splice into that wire? so you wouldnt need to solder your control panel or have wires running throughout and not worry about the wires getting tangled or coming undone?
+OhhKey! Unfortunately no because the wires to the other PCB are just a resistive circuit or could possibly be a serial communication. Meaning multiple buttons exist on a single wire and the other PCB determines which button is pressed by measuring the resistance or the serial command being sent.
Oh yeah also, how do you make your parking brake? Can you make a tutorial please?
Do you know how to wire into the paddle shifter or A,B button can’t seem to figure out which pin to wire into
I can't find the B button
Hi! can i do the same but in the button "X"? or theres no point of contact to solder?
Thank you. good job.
Luka Hyuga Unfortunately I haven't been able to trace the X button circuit to a full contact point. It is a resistance based button so multiple buttons activate on the one Circuit. Have a further look on RUclips someone may have already found the correct contact point for other buttons :) also keep in mind most games let you reassign buttons so R3 could become whatever X is usually. Goodluck!
KRaZi. Yeah that what i was thinking about.
Another thing i need to ask you... do you think i can do the same thing with a PS3 controller? the some conection? because i am afraid that a can lose my wheel guarantee.
+Luka Hyuga I think you may find that the controller and the wheel may not always work at the same time (to the same account). Just like if you have two ps4 controllers, only one controller will function at a time in the game. You may need to test that part first but I do believe you will run into issues with games. If you are not confident doing the modification, maybe wait till your warranty is over then attempt it with a friend that has experience with electronics and soldering :)
KRaZi. i already tried to accelarate with the pedal and press X on the controller and it was a little delay to actual start processing the handbrake, it is not to much but i think i can handle that.
The problem with the guarantee is that i have more 1 year and 8 months to end xD
I have no problems to soldering and something like that but, imagina if the wheel as a problem and i active the guarantee (sorry for bad english xD) and the store recuse to repair it because they see that i already did a modificacion, thats my fear. A prefer to lose a 40€ controller than a 300€ wheel. I think you understand.
Maybe this video can help ruclips.net/video/1JBdlyaf4qo/видео.htmlm1s :)
Is it possible to take out the hot glue that you put without messing up the board??
Andrew Benitez yes the hotglue should not mess up the board if u decide to remove. Again just be careful to not pull at it with a lot of force. It should just sort of peel away once u lift at an edge of the dried glue.
KRaZi. Thank you. Video really helped
A couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol will remove hot glue completely without any risk to board whatsoever !
great video great work
i love it and you make a movie for make a sequential shifter homemad :)
Looking foward to the hydro e-brake video
+iTzCqmboPvP Just gathering bits and pieces for it still so might make it a 2 part video on the hydro :)
Can you wire a potentiometer to it instead of a micro switch for analog e brake
Nah if you mean so that you can have a range of pressure, you can't. Its just an on/off switch.
Is it still possible to do something similar on a Thrustmaster wheel that has quick release on it?
While trying this mod, a metal spring/clip/retainer fell out. Is it important, or can someone tell me where it goes? Kind of shaped like a Greek letter omega (Ω). Any help???
Just a simple question.... when u turn that wheel all the way from one side to another, u twist that wire all the time ?
Nah theres enough slack that if it catches it will just pull the slack up. Same as the original pcb wiring.
Hey, i messed up soldering to the r3 this time around i want to get it soldered by someone who has experience to the plus minus buttons, i saw your photo on where the pins are located, just wondering which exact terminals to solder onto, thanks!!
Did you watch the video? Guess not
Thanks that was really helpful 👍🏻
Midget man89 Glad I could help!
but if you solder to a button like R3 this has only two states and you can't action 10, 20, 30 or 90% of the handbrake no?, can't you solder to another analog button like the wheel for example?
That's correct. You would need a resistive switch or rotary dial to connect to your handbrake mechanism. For my purpose and many others I was wanting the on/off action that's usually used with a hydro handbrake in drifting. Rally is a different story where you may want a percentage of activation.
Would the selectable pins to wire into be the same on the thrustmaster tx? I will have to use a button on the d pad but they have 4 pins like your button does.
If its a tactile switch like I wired into then yeah should be the same.. if its a normal d pad, they usually work by resistance which is a different type of switch and is not easy to trace back to where it needs to be wired.
@@KrishneilGarib it looked at sounds like a regular clickey button, so I'll go off yours and test it with a multimeter. Thank you.
Bro how are You,look the cable of the pcb is broke what is the name of that cable.can i Buy it.is the cable from the green board inside between motors that go to the wheel motherboard of the button.please and thanks
I need. A video on the thrust master t248 for hard wiring the hand brake and shifter. Gonna try to hard wire an after market hand brake and logitech shift. Thrust master want $200 for their shift while Logitech shifter is only $50. I don't understand why its marked up so much smh
a ligação fica em paralelo ? se eu apertar o botão no volante tbm vai funcionar ?
Diablo3362 Sorry mate I only speak English so I can't read what you wrote
Hello, I would like to know if the connection will be in parallel, because I would like to use the button on the steering wheel and also the handbrake
I hope you understand.
thanks in advance
Diablo3362 Yes! the connection is parallel with the original button so you can still use the button on the wheel :)
Thank you very much, it helped me a lot. And congratulations for your video.
Diablo3362 Glad I could help :)
What would be the best wire and switch to use? Thanks
I think I cover this in the videos but for the actual steering wheel side I used a 2 core cable. Find one thats about 3mm to 5mm in diameter. Once that part is done, you can use either the same cable, or any speaker wire to do the handbrake side.
The switch I use is a micro switch with lever. Check out all 3 videos in the series.
thanks mate
Is it easy too mess this up because i dont want too take too much risk
Tele-J THXRXPY If you are not confident with soldering, please get an experienced friend or a shop to do this for you. It's straight forward, but can become tricky and end up in a mess if you are new to soldering.
I accidentally ripped pulled to hard on the hub and ripped the wires out of the pins for the connector for the controller so now I gotta re pin it but no biggy
Im buying all the things I need from Amazon (soldering kit/wire/heat shrink tubing/and some sort of button) I’ll be fabricating the handbrake myself. I’m just not sure what wire to pick up. Any advice?
Hey man i messed up bad when i was running the wire through the center for hydro handbrake the motor assembly fell out now i beleive the wheel calibration for days do you know of a method to resset it, im panicking now my g923 is only few weeks old 😢 any help brother, thought id ask yourself you seemed very clued in thanks a heap
Did you get it working?
@@jmac7288 hi yes, I'm sorry I usually reply unlike most if I found a fix I'd post how it was done hate it when you see a problem and there's never a answer, I know it can be very helpful for those searching,
But yes I got the wheel back in perfect I was in a panic it wouldn't allign true dead centre when I sat down and thought about it was dead simple to reassemble it, I wanted the wheel to be true dead centre again if it was out even a tooth it would eat my OCD or CDO the order it should be haha
But all done and dusted if you need help I'm happy to walk you through recentering the wheel.
Thanks for asking have a good day.
@@aussiebattler8438 thanks for the detailed response, I'm glad you got it working again
Glad you got it sorted, and this is good information for anyone else that might have this issue.
How do you unconnected the plug that connects the motherboard the steering wheel base
Just wriggle side to side it will come out. If its tight might need to super carefully use a flat head screwdriver to help pop the ends off. The plug should have little edges where u can do this.
Hello. I have a question. Did all the buttons worki normally after this modification? I read that shift paddles wont work when you mount it under R buttons. Is it true?
All buttons continue to work fine. You just have to ensure your wiring is nicely tucked. If the wires stop the housing from closing properly it stops buttons from working as there will be an unintended gap. So just have to make sure you take your time making sure ur not jamming/squashing wires.
Thanks for info!
I need to connect my handbrake to the square button. Where would I solder that onto?
Can you post a link of the e-brake you bought?
I bought a handbrake that has a USB input, can I cut it into the wire of the Handbrake and solder it to the g29 steering wheel pcb board?
Without knowing more about your handbrake I can't say. If its a USB handbrake it would have a USB controller built into it meaning the wires coming out as USB are data wires, not a simple switch wire. You would need to pull it apart and find the actual switch inside that is activated and wire that to the g29..
Having a slight issue.. So I wired it in turned it on and the handbrake won't work. It won't even register the r3 or L3 button I tried both. The handbrake was given to me with the wheel. A 4 core usb cable.. I joined the green and red and black and white when I soldered them in. Is that wrong?
That won't work. USB handbrakes require the data to be decoded. Tapping into the steering wheel buttons requires a normal switch with 2 prongs. If you read across the comments people have asked previously if a USB handbrake will work and the answer is always No. You have to wire in a switch manually.
@@KrishneilGarib thanks very much mate I appreciate. Now to figure out how I do that. Haha. I'm new to this sim stuff.
I’m sorry for commenting 4 years after you made this but I’m having a problem: I did everything as shown in the video, I had no problems. And I tested the L3 button by touching the wires together before putting the wheel back on and it worked. But after mounting and screwing the wheel back on, the L3 button (which still clicks and connects both sides when activated), when clicked isn’t registered by the wheel anymore. I tested and found no shorts. It was working before but now it’s not. I’m worried that I could have been soldering it for too long, but if it was working then that could be it right?
The wired in side or the wheel L3?
If its the wheel L3 i would reopen and make sure there isnt anything preventing the wheel casing from closing properly. If it is it will put a gap between the button and the pcb bpard which I had experienced.
If the new connected wires aren't doing anything when touching together then maybe the wire got pinched somewhere? Very hard to help diagnose these issues without physically being there unfortunately. Hope you're able to solve it :)
Sorry I'm later than late but It could be the internal resistance added to the button circuit, I did my circle ⭕ button but if you hold the Ebrake for too long it resets the wheel because the pedal plate & Ebrake are shorting connecting through the frame I have them mounted on.. I took apart the Ebrake switch & isolated it from the frame, problem solved.
Glad you got it sorted
Hii everyone im a bit late to this vid but is there any special cable i need or i can use 2 cables from an old usb cable? And i have a momentary tactile switch 2 pins is that good for it ?
Very helpful!
Hi mate..!! im thinking to use to B-button but i really dont know how i do it...have one cabel from ebrake to b ...but then twisted it on the pcb..??? please describe it for me..!
I am not sure where the b button main connector is. It wont work from the button itself because they are resistive type buttons. You will need to look for another guide to use that button as I haven't been able to trace where it goes to. Its easier to use the button I used and remap in game.
Why don't you put some kind of clamp on that screw next to the soldered wires,then the connection is eternal and no glue is needed👌
Peeter Jullinen This was my first though. Something as simple as a cable tie would clamp sufficiently. I’d dread having to remove all that glue should the mod ever need replaced.
Great idea, but I used what I had on me at the time.
Been a while since I did this, but where would the cable tie fasten against? There was limited space and the glue provides flexibility to route the wire where there was enough space for everything to close back together.
Krishneil Garib A great job you did too!
can i make the soldering with a hot glue?? because iam not expert in soldering..
Nope
what Gauge wire did you use to wire it and would it be possible to wire it to the plus and minus buttons ? if so would you be able to make a video and is there a place to order pre built handbrakes for this? I lack a 3d printer
Nick Bates I used automotive 2 core wire from Jaycar. I think it's roughly 18gauge or smaller. It really doesnt matter what gauge you use in this application because it does not need to carry much current. Just make sure the total thickness is about 3mm so it fits through the centre of the wheel. The paddle shifter buttons are contact switches you can probably see in the video. They also have easy to tap into feet ao its basically the same process as what I did but to the larger contact switch. Won't really be any point for me personally to openit up just to wire it into those buttons right next to the ones I used.. also for the paddels as you would lose the gear shifting ability that some games use (Like Gran Turismo for paddle shift only cars). Hope that helps.
Nick Bates Oh and with the handbrake, there are tonnes of Hydro handbrakes on ebay. Thats what I'll be installing in the next video. You will need to put a switch on the handbrake but I will go through that when I get a chance to record.
KRaZi.TV thanks man that was extremely helpful this will be my first time modding but I think you misunderstood where I meant when I said plus and minus buttons I mean the ones to the right of the L3 button
Oh Sorry I did misunderstand... yes you can tap into the plus and minus buttons just like I have for the R3. They are also tactile switches. Have a look at the following pics.. this is the back of the board where you will solder into... red circles the plus minus buttons and blue is where the r3 is that I used in the video...
Back:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B_zPeLuEEQNHNktnVC0yTENoZFk
.
here is the front side of the pcb for reference too:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B_zPeLuEEQNHaHBDUjB2Vk1WdXM
.
Hope that helps!
KRaZi.TV thanks man your awesome I'm about to watch more of your videos I'll keep an eye out for that video for converting a hydrolic shifter
Do u recon you can make a video wiring it up to ur hand break
+KaiTheCnt There will be one in the near future when I find time. I have a hydro handbrake that I'll be replacing my current handle with and wiring it up. Also your previous comment, I'd prefer if you used my video as a guide to try it yourself :) Unfortunately, finding time to do my own things is hard enough let alone doing it for someone else!
KRaZi.TV ok man great vid I'll sure be trying this when part 2 is up thanks heaps
Will the cord be broken if you spin the wheel
Ohh Shako Not at all. This is why I mention to get a really thing gauge wire so that the rotation of the wheel won't cause it to bind.
I have a problem. I did exactly the same thing, but now, when I plug in the wheel to the xbox, it doesnt calibrate and the led light keeps blinking
Snoiperz Confirm that you soldered into the correct places on the bottom contacts of the switch. If you got solder accidentally to short the connection you may need to resolder. If you applied too much heat or hit another pcb component with the soldering iron then you may have a problem. Please recheck your work.
Snoiperz plug the power in from the box that helped me
Alright, idk what the problem was, but I did everything again, and now it somehow works. Thanks!
Snoiperz Glad you got it sorted!
hey bro off topic but how did u get your g25 shifter working on th g29?
Its the G27 shifter. G27 shifter plugs straight in and works, apart from the additional buttons.
Can i use tape If i dont have hot glue
You can try but it may not stick for long. Maybe something like double side tape (mounting tape) but don't peel off one side of it.
Okey Thx for the fast replay
Ik i’m late but does this work on Xbox series x with g920?
Can g29 be converted into a clutch paddle like F1 etc?
I'm sorry if English was strange because it is Japanese.
Yes
Mayby stupid question buth does this work for nfs 2015 and payback on ps4?
Unfortunately NFS 2015 didn't support the g29 on ps4 so the entire wheel won't work. Unless they've recently updated it to support it.
Owkey thank you, i gonna try the handbrake before solding on payback on the ps4 otherwhise it's time to buy a new pc
deronag if you didn’t found out already, payback has horrible wheel support.
@@luuk3390 yes indeed i found out, i play assetto corsa, dirt rally now and gonna buy gran turismo sport to, and i'm saving for new gamer pc so i can play forza also :)
So i could take one of these USB handbrakes an make the same fix?
I did it myself on 'B' button and it works for 2 days. From rotating the wheel the wires gets somewhere disconnected. The solder and glue is ok.I change the wires and it works again 2 days and wires get again disconnected. due to wheel rotation the wires are twisting constantly and I think it can't really last longer. I am using 2 wires from usb cable. Any advise what wires to try for 3rd last try?
Someone said "I used standard RCA AV cable - low profile and flexible, less likely to break under stress and already has a plug as a bonus" try it.
I can't find the B button
How does the wire spin around with the wheel
The same way the rest of the loom does. There is some slack in the wire that lets this happen.
Would have been easier to tap in to the gear shifter buttons right next to the handbrake.
The buttons on the shifter don't work with the G29 :) I mention in the video that I am using the G27 Shifter with the G29 wheel. The G29 Shifter has no buttons on there.
lol you dont listin do you lmao
two years late... but yes. Much easier, but not as fun
How can I find that shifter?
The ebay handbrake looks good now
Which is positive and negative
Doesn't matter for the switch
Krishneil Garib thanks
What chair is that?
did someone do this for sequential shifter?
I tried to wire a handbrake and the game always thinks it’s on? Any help?
Check the solder joint hasn't connected 2 of the button prongs causing it to always be on. You just have to check over your work by opening it up again.
@@KrishneilGarib nothing is touching. My handbrake has four wires
Sounds like a USB handbrake? In that case it wont work. You need a simple handbrake with a 2 wire switch like in my videos.
@@KrishneilGarib so there is no way to get it to work?
Not with a USB handbrake. USB accepts digital data, so the handbrake has a board on it somewhere that translates the signal to work with a PC. Only way to use it is to open up your usb handbrake, run new 2 core wire from the handbrakes inbuilt switch and wire it again to the logitech.
What wire was used ??????
Anyone know anyway to buy one or even pair for ps5
do you need to solder at the wheel and use cable? can't this be done paralel?
I might be wrong, but it was just a thought :)
Yes the wheel pcb produces the correct command for it to be recognised by a PS4.
Thank you
would this work with a pc handbrake?
Not an easy task unfortunately and would likely break the ability to be used as a usb pc handbrake.
What if I just pull apart my ps4 controller and go from there
Mono Chan I haven't tried myself if both controller and wheel can function in all games at the same time so you might have to do some testing before you take that approach :)
3:07 just for me to remember
I tried it with a USB cable and fucked everything up my dad's pissed and it's broken
cheers
Buddy mentions he had to fix it later on in the video ! Wtf
so many screws... i wish i went fanatec rly
Can you please remove this background annoying music? I can't hear you well.
Y DOES MY G29 CRUNCH its fuckin annoying and I feel like I'm breaking it
My stupid wheel is made with pins
Maybe mention not hot glue gunning this mines fucked now , don’t hot glue gun this u won’t be getting it on and your unit mite get fucked trying to repair the mess