Nice job. I highly suggest using threaded inserts and bolts for access panel and mounting the sub. In case you need to recone or get behind the panel, you could open it up for the lifetime of the enclosure and mounting surface will never degrade which MDF is notorious for. Another thing, Raptor bedliner is great alternative to paint. It's isiot proof and provides a tough and clean finish that'll handle abuse.
Subscribe to see all the new content! bit.ly/go2youtubenow A better edit of this video is here: ruclips.net/video/IM6IAapVsBU/видео.html The distorted aspect ratio video at the end is fixed!
Love the show and the build, an I've got a question for you have you ever tried to build a an open baffle subwoofer specifically a duel 15in w frame baffle designed I've considered such a build an learned that any driver with a Qts value at .7 or higher is a good place to start but trying to find one that's 98db efficient and is under 300$ a driver is hard any advice on how to get one and build a duel 15in open baffle w frame That would be great my current planed build is two diy subs for my home theater each to be a twin 15in DVC 4 Ohms either to be in a sealed with radiator or if I can find the right sub for it a open baffle subwoofer, my preference is for the open baffle is a driver that takes a total rms of 800watts each for a combined total of 1600 as I'll be using my two 1502 crowns in Bridged one to push each of my radiator builds for which I already have a decent drivers for them but my quest to find a driver for my open baffle subwoofers builds I don't my preference is the same size and rms but with an efficiency of 98db an fq range to at least of 20hz on the driver and under 350$ per driver if that's possible. I'd like to see you do a two duel 15in DVC w frame open baffle subwoofers for your next vid after your current one thanks
I don't have a lot but what I have is very interesting an defiantly has me considering such a build for me just trying to find a car subwoofer that can suit such peramiters that are needed for open baffle subwoofer design but that's just for costs the best iv seen for use in a open baffle Subwoofer design is from acoustic elegance this is a 2pt video about open baffle subwoofer ruclips.net/video/GLKZVBYi-Lc/видео.html I'd planed to go for what's called a w frame after I sort out what in willing to spend on such a build
Here's a link to open baffle subwoofer design www.hifizine.com/2012/12/subwoofer-origami/ check out the w frame and the dipole w frame www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Slot-loaded-open-baffle.png www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Slot-loaded-W-frame.png www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Ripole.png (my current fav to try) lautsprechershop.de/pdf/ripol/ridtahler.pdf
Really I did just that many years ago - through the floor! resonance box was the basement. Just need an infinite baffle speaker. A 15 inch will fit well between floors thrusts. Then just send audio signal through an active crossover and job done. Also: I used an ordinary "heat dock floor plate" to hide speaker. So I just SAW a rectangle hole through floors plywood, then screw speaker underneath. Bass like I never heard... caveat: better not tell your wife in advance.
Steve on … I like the way you think, but the reality is a normal 2x4 wall with sheetrock is going to flap like a screen door in a hurricane, never mind moving the furniture upstairs. Probably best to brace a bunch of 2x12s to a cement wall and load it with insulation.
One thing to note is when you are working with MDF, especially cutting/sanding, you should be wearing a respirator or at the very least a dust mask. MDF is made with formaldehyde and you don’t want to be breathing in any particulates
So much effort you've put into making the perfect enclosure and I assume quality drivers and then you crap out on the cables, I know for sure when you want to get the full power to those drivers that your flimsy cables are too thin, you really need a bigger gauge because when you drive those woofers hard your cables will warm up pretty fast, I'm sure that's the weakest link so if you ever get problems you know where to look first.
@@JilesMcCoy the wire inside the amplifier is also very short, every connection and every inch of wire is also more resistance that you're adding to the system so I stand for my suggestion to use a bigger wire gauge. Also if the wire inside the amplifier is a small gauge maybe it's better to replace those too. I have Phoenix Gold amplifier and those have really big gauge wires inside, I have even bigger gauge connected to the outside of the amp going to the speakers. You'd want to have the least resistance in a high power and high quality audio system to get the best performance.
@@RicardoPenders I don't disagree with the concept. But at these power levels and run lengths 12awg is the most that anyone would reasonably need to use. Some external guidance: www.crutchfield.com/S-jkNXkfIwhWH/learn/learningcenter/home/speakers_wire.html
You can use the 2nd half as a fixture to hold the interior panels I. The correct positions. Once those panels are dry you can remove 2and half panel, check everything and then glue the 2nd half on . Thanks for the video!
Awesome build! I've built quite a few speakers over the years and your video and quality of build is amazing. Great job and I'm super impressed. You even got me to sign in to comment. I'll be watching more of your work! Thanks!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the comment and the subscription! More to come too. I have 2 Marty Cubes waiting on warmer weather to build! Maybe next weekend!
I respect the people who make a passion or hobby from this. I am also passionate about acoustics and really? I did choose not this type of box... Based on the TS parameters, or direct take the drawings from internet, make one tts 56 like Rcf has. Almost there... Also that project can be a little improved but the box will be a little bigger ( anyway is huge). Compare then the sound. All the respect for your work.
Great video. I highly recommend a pair or more of saw horses. Gets your enclosure up to an ergonomic work height and allows lots of clamp location options.
Just seen Zeos mention you and saw you in the comments thought I'd come check the channel out. Anybody doing DIY 21" subs is someone I'm happy to watch
@@JilesMcCoy oh, the starks. Beautiful speakers but never going to have those. Probably the only starks to ever occupy the same room as a marty or devastator. Now where are the volts
You should have bought a Brad nailer for this build. I have a Ryobi 18v nailer that works great. Once you get one you will be wondering why you waited so long to get one. Can’t wait to see the REW results.
Next build is on the way. Have the drivers and the box kits. Its the new roundover Marty Cube. This is a sub that will fit in almost everyone's theater.
Hello, sir. Thank you for the video on this build. I would really appreciate full box specifications on this build if you have not already planned on providing that. The main thing I want to see is the F3 for this box with the speaker used. I am sure all of us interested in this build wants to know this number! Thank you again for your dedication, and most of all, time spent showing us all this build! Cheers and happy new year!
You might have heard of a UK company called ASS, (Acoustic Sound Systems) but unfortunately have now closed down, but whilst they were in operation they built literally thousands of cabinets for most larger nightclubs not only here in the UK but abroad as well, I knew Tony Rossell the owner who has now retired and bought many cabinets from him direct from his factory, what an amazing guy, he developed the 18" and 21" folded horn scoops using as you mentioned B&C but mainly used PD drivers (Precision Devices) I'm not sure if you are using MDF or another propriety board but believe me just glueing won't last very long, in time the cabinets would literally fall apart under full load conditions, we use 18mm Birch Ply and not only glue but use many screws on dividers and braces, another UK company that build systems is 'Function One' supposed to be the best, and probably is but well over priced for what you are getting.
@JDM World - I did. She gives me liberties too. My preferred method of subwoofer design is a clamshell isopair of identical woofers in the same ported box. Very simple and effective.
@@JilesMcCoy nice! PS: Why on earth would you biuld that huge thing with MDF? LoL - I also build a 15" bassreflex with about 19hz tuning yesterday and it's good and all but I WANT MORE LoL (The sub amp is the limiting factor right now. The speaker might have 2db's headroom). Do you have experience with the tuba ht? I'm qiet curious if such a small Horn really works at these low frequencies.
@@kaedeschulz5422 I know... its super heavy. Birch for the next one! I have never heard a Tuba... but people tell me they are very cool. Maybe I should build one for giggles.
about the weatherstripping , sumting i found in the diy store that works great is the same type of strip but wider , its used to seat open cell concrete blocks (verry light for building interior walls ) or alumium wallframing
Now that you are moving up to the 22"s. Are you getting rid of both your 18"s. What's the next movie with the media room? Love your channel. Keep up the great work.
Chris Perry Hey, all the details will be in the next Jiles Journey video but in a nutshell the next items are: 2x 18” Marty cubes in the front of the room. The 21” Deva in back. Add an anamorphic lens. Get madvr running. Swap the screen to a scope screen. Upgrade AVR to a 16 channel unit. Add 2 more floor speakers. Completely redo Atmos. Lots coming up! Constant image height is where it’s at!
@@JilesMcCoy that sounds amazing. Can't wait to see the progress. I'm working on building my first movie theater currently. Step by step. Bought our first home, and I'm dedicating 1/2 the basement for the build. I'm also a diy guy and love the videos.
@12:00 you talk about the energy that a 21" sub produces and to use extra glue to re-enforce joints for a stronger bond... I'm curious why you didn't countersink some wood screws into the box. Does that kit not allow it? Also, I see that kit is pre-cut for delivery. For people that have a CNC machine, are the plans public? My HOA would not allow a sub that big. The neighbors would complain for sure.
The glue is stronger than screws when attaching wood to wood. This is a consumer product so I wouldn’t think the plans would be available anywhere. The sub can play as loudly or quietly as you like. Just set your dials where it works for you!
Nice build . I think of folded anything, I think of Loud outdoor systems. I would like to see what you can do with let's say a quality 12 in a true transmission line cabinet
Now I just "discover" JDM World channel & this was 1st vid to watch- I gotta say quality, detail, practical way shown and in the way every one can get it. From point what to get before start of build and from start to finish, all eventual problems already solved - everything is served on a plate, pre-chewed :) - no way this build can fail ! Things I like here is the way of construction with reinforcements and how front panel look - "vents" or bass reflex - just mighty for my taste and finish of whole box is like that - solid, simple without trace of some BS - just mighty ... :) Thank you very much for sharing, video "liked", channel and bell too. Off to check out other videos, cheers !
If one was to compare this to building a street rod, then we're talking BIG BLOCK material! I see the driver is rated to handle 2,500 watts.... no joke. What they don't show in the specs is rated SPL at a given input power, or the other usual data like frequency response, curve, etc. Based on the links I see the driver is $750 and the cabinet is $500. We're in deep pockets territory so don't tell the old lady what you are spending.
little tip we use in housing: concrete sealer, its cheap, it soaks in nearly a 1/4" and helpts prevents termites from attacking due to the polyesters turning the wood into a toxic deterrent to them AND its waterproof you just give the mdf a solid coat of that stuff and about an hour later its ready for paint gota say, dont like how deep those arrows and numbers are cut in... just being paranoid but they look way to deep
What would of made this even more stronger, is fiberglassing all your seems, i build custom subwoofer boxes and it would of def came in handy here, but great work
I would use builders adhesive a good quality one on all the cross members only the joints look very gappy. Did you not use any dampening material behind the driver?
John sweda A good carpenters glue is stronger than the cabinet material. It will exceed the strength of wood and far exceed mdf or particle board. The glue joint will not fail, I have learned this the hard way ! I choose to use a carpenters glue over construction adhesive for several reasons, it is easier to clean up, don't have to worry about wearing gloves to avoid skin contact and as stated on construction adhesive info "use only in well ventilated areas" (don't breathe the vapours!).
Starting my build right now. This video is super helpful to see where one needs to take due care and attention and to see where there might some areas to improve the construction. I don't see how anyone would not like this video unless you're some outstanding handyman. Looking forward to the next one video for the sub/amp/placement setup. Cheers!
I'm glad its helpful! The HFP and EQ setting video is rendering right now. It will be up in the morning! Then a deeper dive into the response of the sub and my thoughts.
Did you wait 24 hrs after each piece was glued and clamped before proceeding with the next step/piece? Or just a few hours to allow the glue to dry sufficiently?
Piece 11 was really difficult to fit and I actually had to use a router to widen a dadoe by 2mm - specifically the middle ones as the outside edges all lined up ok.
Hughs Ng Sounds like you have it all together now? Which driver did you go with? I want to see pics! Post up a thread in the Facebook GSG owners group or Home Theater Fanatics.
@@JilesMcCoy Am sure it does, but I don't get the logic, after all that's why the box is there, to isolate the rear wave from the frontal wave to reduce cancellations. I suggest the two ports would be more efficient separated.
Be careful with them. I had to send back two (both times no questions asked, reputable company) but the lead solder connections did not last in my application.
adding glue to the outside of the joins does not add much for strength... mostly a waste of glue. Use some latex caulk for added seal in the corners if needed...
In all seriousness, are those sized subs overkill for that size of room? I mean you must have a 4000 watt amp per channel so are you using about a quarter of the gain setting or just trimming the LFE channel low?
They are likely overkill for any room in any home theater. But that is part of the point. You do tune the to the output you need. But in the end you can also twist the knob all the way and go nuts too!
As a 2x 18 inch sub owner myself, I get the obsessions over low end. However I will never go back to those type of sizes ever again. I love having normal side tables again and just normal size subs thx certified loving my new choices over the old ones
The boxes are very very large. I am going to rebuild the full martys into Marty cubes just so I can have more location selection in my room. I have a null at 75 hz that I think that will help fix.
Nice build video. Looked through the comments, and, I too, would love to know, exactly, what the design is. Now... Not, a critique, but, I did a full build /install of a BFM THTLP( 15" Folded Horn )/setup w/REW, used it for 6~8 months.... removed the driver, bought a second driver, built two sealed enclosures, installed/ set up w/REW, and, have been MUCH happier. Did the FH go LOW, YES, ... was it LOUD, YES,... For me!.... multiple sealed enclosure subs WINS..... Hands own/No contest... YMMV.... I still have the THT/LP cab, would gladly give it to someone who proves they have a driver for it, RSS390HF, wants to use it, and, will pick it up in the Palm Springs, CA area......... I'll keep a watch on JDM World... LOVE The DIY Audio STUFF!!!!!.......... Oh, and, TOTALLY Agree with the Minidsp for Sub control, nothing better @ PricePoint.........
I like the kits, i wish the wood was a lighter weight baltic birch, if this is for install thats cool but for mobile applications it would be a headache with mdf will swell if it gets moisture in the wood
So why don't you like PL glue? I liked your build video. Interesting to watch. Why are there clamp marks on the baffle and other spots? Looks like some sort of staining. Even shows up over the duratex (I use a cheap latex base paint to hide imperfections and stretch out my duratex for those reasons). And a tip I learned the hard way after building my first horn is to paint the "mouth" before you put the side panels on. Makes life easier. We want a demo!
I don't dislike PL glue. I just have a bunch of Titebond III. The clamp marks are from oil or something from the pads of the clamps. I have seen it on other build videos from folks too. Painting the mouth is super important... that might be good to included in the instructions for this particular model.
i would never use screws to mount drivers i always use allen head bolts and t nuts so each bolt is threaded and you can remove as offen as you need and the mount holes wont wear out
![[DOKKAN BATTLE] Worldwide Campaign Announcement Video Part 2!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JpT5Voak6WA/mqdefault.jpg)
21:20 This is really good advice for anyone building MDF enclosures. The edges of MDF will soak up everything much faster than the faces of the sheet.
This subwoofer is going to shake the earth.
Its big and can play loud... but you can set it to what works in your system well.
Subscribe to see all the new content! bit.ly/go2youtubenow
Nice job. I highly suggest using threaded inserts and bolts for access panel and mounting the sub. In case you need to recone or get behind the panel, you could open it up for the lifetime of the enclosure and mounting surface will never degrade which MDF is notorious for.
Another thing, Raptor bedliner is great alternative to paint. It's isiot proof and provides a tough and clean finish that'll handle abuse.
Subscribe to see all the new content! bit.ly/go2youtubenow
A better edit of this video is here: ruclips.net/video/IM6IAapVsBU/видео.html The distorted aspect ratio video at the end is fixed!
Love the show and the build, an I've got a question for you have you ever tried to build a an open baffle subwoofer specifically a duel 15in w frame baffle designed I've considered such a build an learned that any driver with a Qts value at .7 or higher is a good place to start but trying to find one that's 98db efficient and is under 300$ a driver is hard any advice on how to get one and build a duel 15in open baffle w frame That would be great my current planed build is two diy subs for my home theater each to be a twin 15in DVC 4 Ohms either to be in a sealed with radiator or if I can find the right sub for it a open baffle subwoofer, my preference is for the open baffle is a driver that takes a total rms of 800watts each for a combined total of 1600 as I'll be using my two 1502 crowns in Bridged one to push each of my radiator builds for which I already have a decent drivers for them but my quest to find a driver for my open baffle subwoofers builds I don't my preference is the same size and rms but with an efficiency of 98db an fq range to at least of 20hz on the driver and under 350$ per driver if that's possible. I'd like to see you do a two duel 15in DVC w frame open baffle subwoofers for your next vid after your current one thanks
Hi! That is an area that I've not delved into yet. Do you have a link to some similar builds that I could check out to start some research?
I don't have a lot but what I have is very interesting an defiantly has me considering such a build for me just trying to find a car subwoofer that can suit such peramiters that are needed for open baffle subwoofer design but that's just for costs the best iv seen for use in a open baffle Subwoofer design is from acoustic elegance this is a 2pt video about open baffle subwoofer ruclips.net/video/GLKZVBYi-Lc/видео.html
I'd planed to go for what's called a w frame after I sort out what in willing to spend on such a build
Here's a link to open baffle subwoofer design www.hifizine.com/2012/12/subwoofer-origami/ check out the w frame and the dipole w frame
www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Slot-loaded-open-baffle.png
www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Slot-loaded-W-frame.png
www.hifizine.com/files/2012/03/Ripole.png (my current fav to try)
lautsprechershop.de/pdf/ripol/ridtahler.pdf
Thanks! This looks like a SUPER cool project to try out. It is on the list!
Cut 19.83" diameter hole in wall. Mount speaker. Job done.
Infinite baffle! I see what you did there. Also wouldn't require TONS of wattage
play movie, no more wall
@@elsey1976 And how about a front loaded horn? try that with an infinite baffle design :D
Really I did just that many years ago - through the floor! resonance box was the basement. Just need an infinite baffle speaker. A 15 inch will fit well between floors thrusts. Then just send audio signal through an active crossover and job done. Also: I used an ordinary "heat dock floor plate" to hide speaker. So I just SAW a rectangle hole through floors plywood, then screw speaker underneath. Bass like I never heard... caveat: better not tell your wife in advance.
Steve on … I like the way you think, but the reality is a normal 2x4 wall with sheetrock is going to flap like a screen door in a hurricane, never mind moving the furniture upstairs. Probably best to brace a bunch of 2x12s to a cement wall and load it with insulation.
One thing to note is when you are working with MDF, especially cutting/sanding, you should be wearing a respirator or at the very least a dust mask. MDF is made with formaldehyde and you don’t want to be breathing in any particulates
You are absolutely right! Thanks for calling that out.
z030n3r lol I for sure breathed in at least a pound last week when building my box. Oh well.
Hope you are ok!
Blake oh man, that’s not good for your lungs. Have fun with the builds, but more importantly- be safe. Wear personal protective equipment
Awesome and informative video. Thanks for putting in the time and effort Jiles. Can't wait for your review on this sub.
Its been great so far!
So much effort you've put into making the perfect enclosure and I assume quality drivers and then you crap out on the cables, I know for sure when you want to get the full power to those drivers that your flimsy cables are too thin, you really need a bigger gauge because when you drive those woofers hard your cables will warm up pretty fast, I'm sure that's the weakest link so if you ever get problems you know where to look first.
12awg is plenty big. It’s larger than the wire inside the amplifier....
@@JilesMcCoy the wire inside the amplifier is also very short, every connection and every inch of wire is also more resistance that you're adding to the system so I stand for my suggestion to use a bigger wire gauge. Also if the wire inside the amplifier is a small gauge maybe it's better to replace those too. I have Phoenix Gold amplifier and those have really big gauge wires inside, I have even bigger gauge connected to the outside of the amp going to the speakers. You'd want to have the least resistance in a high power and high quality audio system to get the best performance.
@@RicardoPenders I don't disagree with the concept. But at these power levels and run lengths 12awg is the most that anyone would reasonably need to use. Some external guidance: www.crutchfield.com/S-jkNXkfIwhWH/learn/learningcenter/home/speakers_wire.html
You can use the 2nd half as a fixture to hold the interior panels I. The correct positions. Once those panels are dry you can remove 2and half panel, check everything and then glue the 2nd half on . Thanks for the video!
Thanks! Its a super fun subwoofer!
Awesome build! I've built quite a few speakers over the years and your video and quality of build is amazing. Great job and I'm super impressed. You even got me to sign in to comment. I'll be watching more of your work! Thanks!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the comment and the subscription! More to come too. I have 2 Marty Cubes waiting on warmer weather to build! Maybe next weekend!
pheeeew.... that room 😂My ears are already hurting from imagining cracking up that sound system in that tiny room
I respect the people who make a passion or hobby from this.
I am also passionate about acoustics and really? I did choose not this type of box...
Based on the TS parameters, or direct take the drawings from internet, make one tts 56 like Rcf has.
Almost there... Also that project can be a little improved but the box will be a little bigger ( anyway is huge).
Compare then the sound.
All the respect for your work.
Thanks!
Great video. I highly recommend a pair or more of saw horses. Gets your enclosure up to an ergonomic work height and allows lots of clamp location options.
Thats great advice!
looks like a pa subwoofer to me ngl @@JilesMcCoy
You're a mad man. I love it. That room must sound like the music and movies are in your mind.
Thanks!
2 from these subs with a Behringer nx 6000D for a classic rock band playing at about 50-100 people might be overkill but cool
Super cool.
Just seen Zeos mention you and saw you in the comments thought I'd come check the channel out. Anybody doing DIY 21" subs is someone I'm happy to watch
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Very nice build. I love you're whole system. Looks badass. I can just imagine how good it sounds. I hope you don't have any neighbors close by.
Thanks! Keep following along in the Jiles Journey series and you can see all of the changes I am making. Lots more to come!
well done master
Thanks!
wow man my dream
They are awesome!
Thanks for letting us hear what it sounds like. Nice bass
did i miss that part ? :D
Yea where ?? Maybe I dozed off for a snooze. Lol nice sub for the house. I love it
I may just build this one, been looking for the right one! I really like all aspects of it.
I love this sun. It’s awesome!
Want to see a video of you cracking your neighbors foundation with that monster! Great build and subbed :0)
Tried and failed. Although I think I broke my back moving it down the stairs.
Your surrounds are FREEK. I love them.
They are one of my all time favorite speakers.
what does this mean? there are no surrounds in this video
@@ChannelBri If you watch to the end you will see them.
@@JilesMcCoy oh, the starks. Beautiful speakers but never going to have those. Probably the only starks to ever occupy the same room as a marty or devastator. Now where are the volts
ChannelBri I have a set of volt 10s in the closet!
That is monster 👹 cool
For sure
bad ass box
Idol, i am your new subsciber 👍
Thanks for subbing!
Amazing ,speechless sir super.. But difficult hard work.. Super sir..
Thank you so much 🙂
Watching this video, my wife walks in..... “ooh that is one big cat house,”
That would be one sad cat if the sub started up while occupied.
Bass Cat slaps 'like'.
You should have bought a Brad nailer for this build. I have a Ryobi 18v nailer that works great. Once you get one you will be wondering why you waited so long to get one. Can’t wait to see the REW results.
I was trying to follow the instructions directly. A brad nailer is a great tool!
Not quite horn subwoofer but 6th order bandpass. Great build anyway!
Thanks!
Glad to see someone else using a garbage can as a work bench!
Tobey Benway The struggle is real!
@@JilesMcCoy lol! I use mine all the time. Sturdy,just the right height and has wheels!
I'd have dry-clamped that baffle, then drilled and doweled it before gluing. Takes away the ability of it to slide around.
Cool vid!
That would be a great way to go!
It's how I do it with figured guitar tops.
Keep uploading like this stuff's
Next build is on the way. Have the drivers and the box kits. Its the new roundover Marty Cube. This is a sub that will fit in almost everyone's theater.
thats insane dude
Mark Herman It is! I love it!!!
That’s awesome love the build
Hello, sir. Thank you for the video on this build. I would really appreciate full box specifications on this build if you have not already planned on providing that. The main thing I want to see is the F3 for this box with the speaker used. I am sure all of us interested in this build wants to know this number! Thank you again for your dedication, and most of all, time spent showing us all this build! Cheers and happy new year!
Hi - I put some measurement info in the newest review video.
You might have heard of a UK company called ASS, (Acoustic Sound Systems) but unfortunately have now closed down, but whilst they were in operation they built literally thousands of cabinets for most larger nightclubs not only here in the UK but abroad as well, I knew Tony Rossell the owner who has now retired and bought many cabinets from him direct from his factory, what an amazing guy, he developed the 18" and 21" folded horn scoops using as you mentioned B&C but mainly used PD drivers (Precision Devices) I'm not sure if you are using MDF or another propriety board but believe me just glueing won't last very long, in time the cabinets would literally fall apart under full load conditions, we use 18mm Birch Ply and not only glue but use many screws on dividers and braces, another UK company that build systems is 'Function One' supposed to be the best, and probably is but well over priced for what you are getting.
Oh man what a room!
Its getting there.
I bet your neighbors love you ^^
They love the Deva! I might help them build a couple for their room.
I use soap on screws for MDF.
This help quite a bit, also for cracks.
Thanks!
pre-drill, and put glue on the threads, sink the head down an 1/8" fill with everlast auto filler.
Pre-drilling makes everything better!
For sure!
I was devastated watching this.
David James I am being devastated right now too by the pod racer scene!
@JDM World - Did it devastate your marriage?
David James Who do you think helped me build the box and make the video? You just have to find the right wife.
@JDM World - I did. She gives me liberties too. My preferred method of subwoofer design is a clamshell isopair of identical woofers in the same ported box. Very simple and effective.
Damn, that little room with all those subwoofers, my kinda room.
Its fun! But its not that small! 14x18
Rick Long Not at all! When my kids watch they only turn on 1 sub. They say it sounds better to them.
Rick Long It’s all Starke Sound Halo 5 series speakers. Power is from a Starke Sound A7. I have videos about the build posted.
It is a Bandpass. Very nice video as always! Keep going!
Thanks! Starting a 18" Marty Cube build this weekend!
@@JilesMcCoy nice! PS: Why on earth would you biuld that huge thing with MDF? LoL
-
I also build a 15" bassreflex with about 19hz tuning yesterday and it's good and all but I WANT MORE LoL (The sub amp is the limiting factor right now. The speaker might have 2db's headroom). Do you have experience with the tuba ht? I'm qiet curious if such a small Horn really works at these low frequencies.
@@kaedeschulz5422 I know... its super heavy. Birch for the next one! I have never heard a Tuba... but people tell me they are very cool. Maybe I should build one for giggles.
@@JilesMcCoy I'm thinking about building one too! But first i have to finish my 3ways
Great job. 🔈🕨...🎶🎵👍
Thanks!
Best punch in the back 80hz .
Its very cool!
Great job brother good for you nice work..
Many many thanks
I wish I could hear it,other than that,amazing! Thanks for sharing,Geff
I just posted up a quick teaser of what it can do. Make sure you are subbed and have notifications on to see all the new stuff!
about the weatherstripping , sumting i found in the diy store that works great is the same type of strip but wider , its used to seat open cell concrete blocks (verry light for building interior walls ) or alumium wallframing
Thanks for the tip!!!
It's a great project!👍 Thanks for your work 💪
Thanks! Glad you like it!
INSANE. but really neatly insane
You got it!!!
Looking good Jiles nice work.
Thank you!
Very nicely done man!
Thanks a lot!
I like box so good.
Me too!
Can't wait for the next video!
Thanks! 👍
Cool subwoofer
Thanks!
When I saw this on the home theater group I didn't realize you had two UM 15-22's in full Marty's also lol!
They are UM 18-22 :-) Check out the build videos on this channel!
Now that you are moving up to the 22"s. Are you getting rid of both your 18"s. What's the next movie with the media room?
Love your channel. Keep up the great work.
Chris Perry Hey, all the details will be in the next Jiles Journey video but in a nutshell the next items are: 2x 18” Marty cubes in the front of the room. The 21” Deva in back. Add an anamorphic lens. Get madvr running. Swap the screen to a scope screen. Upgrade AVR to a 16 channel unit. Add 2 more floor speakers. Completely redo Atmos. Lots coming up! Constant image height is where it’s at!
@@JilesMcCoy that sounds amazing. Can't wait to see the progress. I'm working on building my first movie theater currently. Step by step. Bought our first home, and I'm dedicating 1/2 the basement for the build. I'm also a diy guy and love the videos.
@12:00 you talk about the energy that a 21" sub produces and to use extra glue to re-enforce joints for a stronger bond... I'm curious why you didn't countersink some wood screws into the box. Does that kit not allow it? Also, I see that kit is pre-cut for delivery. For people that have a CNC machine, are the plans public? My HOA would not allow a sub that big. The neighbors would complain for sure.
The glue is stronger than screws when attaching wood to wood. This is a consumer product so I wouldn’t think the plans would be available anywhere. The sub can play as loudly or quietly as you like. Just set your dials where it works for you!
@@JilesMcCoy Thanks for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated. :)
You must love to read. Looks like a very nice collection.
C-Kicks Thaks, I do. I’ve always felt reading, even just fun stuff, is very important. Hopefully the kids will latch on too.
@@JilesMcCoy little know fact is reading has become more popular than ever. Good video.
The only reason I want to buy a house is so I can have a giant subwoofer
Me too!
Good job
Thank you sir!
AWESOME JOB!!!
Thanks!!
Nice build . I think of folded anything, I think of Loud outdoor systems. I would like to see what you can do with let's say a quality 12 in a true transmission line cabinet
Sounds like a fun project!
Now I just "discover" JDM World channel & this was 1st vid to watch- I gotta say quality, detail, practical way shown and in the way every one can get it. From point what to get before start of build and from start to finish, all eventual problems already solved - everything is served on a plate, pre-chewed :) - no way this build can fail ! Things I like here is the way of construction with reinforcements and how front panel look - "vents" or bass reflex - just mighty for my taste and finish of whole box is like that - solid, simple without trace of some BS - just mighty ... :) Thank you very much for sharing, video "liked", channel and bell too. Off to check out other videos, cheers !
Uroš Petrović Thanks for the kind words! The videos are getting better every time!
Love your builds.... Thanks so much. Very inspirational (If you put your mind to it, you can do it)
Thanks John. That’s really appreciated.
Amazing video, LOVE it! One question, can you give more detail on what specific "Spax Screws" you used?
I used the ones in the shopping list on the GSG web site!
#6 fine thread drywall screws 1.25 inch long
If one was to compare this to building a street rod, then we're talking BIG BLOCK material! I see the driver is rated to handle 2,500 watts.... no joke. What they don't show in the specs is rated SPL at a given input power, or the other usual data like frequency response, curve, etc. Based on the links I see the driver is $750 and the cabinet is $500. We're in deep pockets territory so don't tell the old lady what you are spending.
Very nice!
Thanks! It was fun to put together.
6th Order 21 inch subwoofer... Lord have mercy
Indeed!
little tip we use in housing: concrete sealer, its cheap, it soaks in nearly a 1/4" and helpts prevents termites from attacking due to the polyesters turning the wood into a toxic deterrent to them AND its waterproof
you just give the mdf a solid coat of that stuff and about an hour later its ready for paint
gota say, dont like how deep those arrows and numbers are cut in... just being paranoid but they look way to deep
Thanks!
What would of made this even more stronger, is fiberglassing all your seems, i build custom subwoofer boxes and it would of def came in handy here, but great work
Thank you!
Can a 18 inch eminence omega pro subwoofer perform be put inside of a t line aka a transmission line enclosure.
I am sure it can. I don't know how well it will work though.
If I want to use those for DJing dance music at parties do I have to make any differently? Sorry I’m a total noob!
I would use builders adhesive a good quality one on all the cross members only the joints look very gappy.
Did you not use any dampening material behind the driver?
No, no damping material is needed for this kind of enclosure.
John sweda A good carpenters glue is stronger than the cabinet material. It will exceed the strength of wood and far exceed mdf or particle board. The glue joint will not fail, I have learned this the hard way ! I choose to use a carpenters glue over construction adhesive for several reasons, it is easier to clean up, don't have to worry about wearing gloves to avoid skin contact and as stated on construction adhesive info "use only in well ventilated areas" (don't breathe the vapours!).
Cool
Thanks!
that one looks great!! 👍i have 10 yorkies ....but i never get enought bass .....im going to build one definately👌
Do it!
Starting my build right now. This video is super helpful to see where one needs to take due care and attention and to see where there might some areas to improve the construction. I don't see how anyone would not like this video unless you're some outstanding handyman. Looking forward to the next one video for the sub/amp/placement setup. Cheers!
I'm glad its helpful! The HFP and EQ setting video is rendering right now. It will be up in the morning! Then a deeper dive into the response of the sub and my thoughts.
Did you wait 24 hrs after each piece was glued and clamped before proceeding with the next step/piece? Or just a few hours to allow the glue to dry sufficiently?
@@mxmizuno88 I waited long enough that things wouldnt move as I shift the box around. Once I got all the pieces attached I let it cure.
Piece 11 was really difficult to fit and I actually had to use a router to widen a dadoe by 2mm - specifically the middle ones as the outside edges all lined up ok.
Hughs Ng Sounds like you have it all together now? Which driver did you go with? I want to see pics! Post up a thread in the Facebook GSG owners group or Home Theater Fanatics.
Good video, I’m looking forward to building my mini cubes.
Me too! They are going to be awesome!
I thought they would have the front port and back port not next to each other to prevent them cancelling part out?
It works well as it is.
@@JilesMcCoy Am sure it does, but I don't get the logic, after all that's why the box is there, to isolate the rear wave from the frontal wave to reduce cancellations. I suggest the two ports would be more efficient separated.
magnifique installation , ça doit dépoter un max niveau basse .......
Thank you!
Mach 5 FTW-21 would really rock in there!
It would be super fun to build one of those!
Be careful with them. I had to send back two (both times no questions asked, reputable company) but the lead solder connections did not last in my application.
Oh my God ,this is a monster sound system... wish to know all your amplifier 👀👍
I'll do a tour video!
adding glue to the outside of the joins does not add much for strength... mostly a waste of glue. Use some latex caulk for added seal in the corners if needed...
It makes me feel good though!
@@JilesMcCoy I cannot argue with that...
Good 👍
Thanks
.....ok....it looks awesome....BUYT..(.how ) does it sound?
AWESOME!
Please can you list all the tolls and materials needed for building a speaker
If you watch through the video you will see everything needed for this build.
In all seriousness, are those sized subs overkill for that size of room? I mean you must have a 4000 watt amp per channel so are you using about a quarter of the gain setting or just trimming the LFE channel low?
They are likely overkill for any room in any home theater. But that is part of the point. You do tune the to the output you need. But in the end you can also twist the knob all the way and go nuts too!
As a 2x 18 inch sub owner myself, I get the obsessions over low end. However I will never go back to those type of sizes ever again.
I love having normal side tables again and just normal size subs thx certified loving my new choices over the old ones
The boxes are very very large. I am going to rebuild the full martys into Marty cubes just so I can have more location selection in my room. I have a null at 75 hz that I think that will help fix.
Nice build video. Looked through the comments, and, I too, would love to know, exactly, what the design is. Now... Not, a critique, but, I did a full build /install of a BFM THTLP( 15" Folded Horn )/setup w/REW, used it for 6~8 months.... removed the driver, bought a second driver, built two sealed enclosures, installed/ set up w/REW, and, have been MUCH happier. Did the FH go LOW, YES, ... was it LOUD, YES,... For me!.... multiple sealed enclosure subs WINS..... Hands own/No contest... YMMV.... I still have the THT/LP cab, would gladly give it to someone who proves they have a driver for it, RSS390HF, wants to use it, and, will pick it up in the Palm Springs, CA area......... I'll keep a watch on JDM World... LOVE The DIY Audio STUFF!!!!!.......... Oh, and, TOTALLY Agree with the Minidsp for Sub control, nothing better @ PricePoint.........
Glad you found the system that works best for you. It a magical moment when you do a bunch of work and it all just falls in to place!
I like the kits, i wish the wood was a lighter weight baltic birch, if this is for install thats cool but for mobile applications it would be a headache with mdf will swell if it gets moisture in the wood
I agree that this kit is super heavy!
BRAVO!
Nice !!
Thanks!
next video you need to add seat belts to that sofa in your sound room.
The sofa does get some good motion!
I cant make all those groves can i just use wood dowels? GOD BLESS
Meaning you want to make your own kit?
So why don't you like PL glue? I liked your build video. Interesting to watch. Why are there clamp marks on the baffle and other spots? Looks like some sort of staining. Even shows up over the duratex (I use a cheap latex base paint to hide imperfections and stretch out my duratex for those reasons). And a tip I learned the hard way after building my first horn is to paint the "mouth" before you put the side panels on. Makes life easier. We want a demo!
I don't dislike PL glue. I just have a bunch of Titebond III. The clamp marks are from oil or something from the pads of the clamps. I have seen it on other build videos from folks too. Painting the mouth is super important... that might be good to included in the instructions for this particular model.
Bra! That’s a huge sub for that room 🤣
Its a huge sub for any room bra!
Its just big enough 😎
I wanted four 15s then eight 15s in mine later on so...
i would never use screws to mount drivers i always use allen head bolts and t nuts so each bolt is threaded and you can remove as offen as you need and the mount holes wont wear out
Thanks for the tip!
Piano black or since you have blue and already primed it . Just a thought
Thanks!