Great video. Especially helpful was the info about avoiding getting your fingers cut off. A couple of things I plan to do as I'm headed into this job on the same engine. 1. Also remove the spark plugs and blow out from above. Especially if you don't plan on turning the crankshaft to close the valves as you clean. 2. I'm adding an oil separator to the PVC. I chose J&L Oil Separator Co. This should help keep the valves clean so you don't have to do this job every 20k miles or whatever.
Also if you can tolerate the heat from a hot engine it makes the big carbon just pop off from still being hot. Also there are a whole lot more options tool wise now from when i posted the video. I believe i had about the first diy valve cleaning, and the only people who would even clean the valves at the time were GDI familiar german car techs.
Thanks a bunch! I have gotten quite a bit of negative comments, however since I did this job years ago. I just dug into this project blind and came out ok.
Just finished doing this on my '17 with 52k thanks to your video. Only thing I found not documented in the video was the PCV connection on lower back under side of the intake near the throttle body. My valves where slight better condition than the ones in the video but not by much. The carbon was much softer than I anticipated. I would equate it to old chassis grease that leaked out of a ball joint. It was clumpy, but could squish it with my fingers. When I got the intake off, the valves for 1, 2, 4 were closed. After I cleaned these I turned the crank pulley 90 degrees and ended up with the number 3 cylinder valves closed. My cleaning process was #1 scrape with screw driver #2 blow out with air wand #3 clean with circular bristle brush #4 blow out with air wand #5 spray CRC GCI intake cleaner #6 wrap screw driver with paper towel, secure with tape insert into intake runner and allow to absorb cleaner #7 spray brake clean #8 absorb with paper towel, #8 blow out with air wand. Planning on doing the same process now on my '13 F150 with 72k. Thanks again for the video documentation.
Yea thats why i said to work on it hot and the carbon jus pops off. Good job! Its amazing how 10k in mileage can make a difference, and better fuel. She was running cheap 87 before she met me, run a minimum of 89. It is so cool that a video I made so many years ago is still helping people.
@@scrappyitalian I would add another small thing to lessen the carbon buildup would be run "top tier" grade fuel. Around my parts Costco and QuikTrip have top tier grade fuel. www.toptiergas.com/station-finder/
Hello Lance, I have a 2.4L ecotec direct injection. What worked very well for me was removing the intake manifold while the engine was still at normal operating temperature and spraying the intake valves with Carb Cleaner (I used Johnsen's Carb/Intake Valve Cleaner). The chemical would boil up and out with some very nasty carbon deposits. Cheers,
I’ve used Shell V-Power Nitro+ for 3 years now and it has kept my 2014 Escape 2.0 AWD Titanium running smooth. Close to 103K miles and still smooth and powerful.
Good work bud. I got over 220k km on my 2013 and am not looking forward to doing this. I heard that some guys are using lacquer cleaner/thinner to help dissolve the carbon , they were doing one set of valves at a time then rotate the crank to close the next set of valves and so on. Then suck or blow out the chamber. Guess they don’t want any CHUNKS making it thru to the turbo. 👍
Yea i have heard a lot of comments the carbon going through the turbo and the CRC spray method i used on my SHO sent carbon out the back like a diesel. My thoughts are use amsoil, or a good synthetic to slow the carbon. A catch can would be the best option if out of power train warranty.
Yeah now on thinking about all this, I have decided to bypass this Ford repair and head out to purchase a Honda Ridgeline instead. Im getting too damned old to be doing this kind of shit.
Lexon 2262 it is really a whole lot easier than you think. The intake tubes are very narrow so expect that and use a air wand to blow the carbon back out and make sure the engine it nice and warm, the carbon just pops right off. Sparkling clean would be ideal but get the main junk out and sprat sum of the cleaner i use and let it sit and wrk. Do not spray so much it washes out the turbos or makes a hydrolock condition; use your best judgment. As long as the chunks are gone you will be good for another 45k +. Also buy the new intake gaskets with the mileage you have. And be sure careful with the stock electrical connectors esp the ones under the intake.
Amsoil put out a paper showing it has 45% less volatility or separation loss under load than RP or Mobil 1. This was tested for the purpose of the ecoboost base to eliminate most of the issues of oil vapor through the PCV system. An outfit in Florida also sells a catch can for these with the proper check valve for under boost.
I use amsoil now; however.... you cannot go by the long oil change interval you need to change it sooner as i blew through 2+ quarts of oil between the long amsoil interval. It will go through more oil using the amsoil so be careful! Yes you can top it off but i still change it at the 7500.
Remember i only basically popped off the soft carbon with the long screwdriver and did not “scrap” the valves because it was so soft and easily came off, as i let the engine stay hot.
Use a can of crc intake valve cleaner. stuff works wonders and it doesnt require you to take your whole intake manifold off. Simply spray it through a vacuum line on the intake manifold and follow the instructions. Stuff works great. I use a can every other oil change and my valves are fairly clean
Barn find rebuilds i used it on my 3.5 ecoboost and with low miles it works fine. But i would run a snake scope and make sure because with how thick the carbon can get there is no amount of chemical that will break it loose. If you saw how big the carbon bits were you would freak out if those chunks broke off and blew directly into the cylinders using a chemical. Every 15k is cool but if you are over 45k i would take i apart and clean it manually.
I agree with that. id say a can every 5-10k miles would keep the motor happy. I've really grown to like these 4 and 6 cylinder ecoboost motors. They're actually a lot easier to work on than people think. I have a 2002 ranger with a 2.0 eco swapped into it. Runs like a champ.
Barn find rebuilds keep an eye on the coolant level and do frequent coolant pressure checks., every 10k at the min. The 4 bangers go through head gasket’s in all forms of ecoboost because off poor head design and warping issues, with the exception of the v6 3.5. Ford put 2 engines in my escape because of the head gasket issues. If you have to add “any” coolant you have a leak; that is coming directly from ford.
I do check up on my coolant atleast once every 2 weeks. No leaks here. The motor in my truck came out of a 2014 escape with 10k miles on it. Kinda seems to be a hit or miss.If my head gasket was leaking I would just pull the motor out and get the block resurfaced, not a huge deal. My 2.0 is in a rwd configuration so pulling the motor is as simple as unbloting the motor mounts and transmission then a bunch of lines and it comes right out. In the process of doing this motor swap I had the motor full installed and pulled out atleast 3 times already. Its a really fun daily driver for the most part. 25 psi of boost on a 4 banger is crazy.
Barn find rebuilds yea i try to run midgrade to premium if the temps are over 85. Keeps the detonation down. I think that is part of the problem is running 87, even though ford says its fine in them.
Im so pissed off at myself for not doing this years ago. Now with the much higher prices and my age, Im sure it will be a general pain in the butt. Even the newer pcv plate below the intake is over $100 buck (CND) , and that is just a plastic plate. Why did I wait so long .....
@@packratswhatif.3990 The PCV is so painful to get to. I have to change mine now and I am not looking forward to doing this job. Overall the 2.0 is still working great at 290,000 km.
This video helped my decision. I was going to buy a 2021 f150 3.5 eco boost and now I am buying either a Tundra or Tacoma. Ford should fix any problem wether the Check engine light is on or not. Bastards
yea we have put thousands into this car and yea we have loved it and hated it at the same time. If it were not for the extended warranties we would have been in real financial trouble.
Why didn’t you look into getting an after market blow bye catch can . The direct injection are susceptible to carbon build up on the back of the valves.PCV valves aren’t sufficient to do the job maybe on a naturally aspirated engine . The European model cars VW, BMW, BENZ had the same problems so that’s why the the catch cans are good for this problem.
There are some turbo safe intake cleaners out there I've done one treatment on my fusion and it is certainly a less labor intensive method for this kind of maintenance
Thanks for doing this Video. My 2014 with over 200K is losing power when you hit the gas hard like trying to pass. I am thinking the throttle body needs a good cleaning.and maybe the valves since I will be in there. So thanks for posting.
Make sure your trans is good, mine went out at 120k the rebuild was 3k. Also the head gaskets like to go out on them. I would do a pressure test and compression test.
@@scrappyitalian Negative. GDI is here to stay. Most manufacturers (Mercedes, VW and BMW included) have gone to dual injectors. One in the cylinder and one in the traditional port location to wash the backside of the valves.
My 2018 has 60k miles on it and I haven't cleaned it yet, replaced the plugs. This is what I'll do when I change the oil next as the idle shudders a bit so the fuel probably isn't mixing right due to the air flow restrictions.
Legend Cox make sure you do a coolant pressure test, and a compression test to make sure your head gasket is not about to go as well. The shuddering can be from a know head gasket leak that they have. Ford put 2 engines in our escape before they got it right with a long block the second time.
@@scrappyitalian yeah that has crossed my research as well although its low on my suspicion list since it has used a normal amount of coolant over the last 60k if that is the case im 1000 miles out of warranty . ) :
@@williamwchuang Unfortunately they didnt put it on this version of the engine (2018 2.0 Ecoboost in a ford escape) like i thought. It is only direct injection. I have cleaned it since and there were some decent deposits on the valves, i suppose it shiuld be done around every 50k miles or so and id like to get a walnut blasting kit which seems to work best.
BG makes an engine restoration kit It’s pricey but it will clean your engine almost brand new. Goes for about 350 dollars but if your engine is a mess this will clean it for sure Plenty of videos on you tube
Well after going all the cleaning and thinking the carbo was the reason for the hesitation and odd drivability problems the main thing is the killing of the engines with the crappy head gasket in the first gen engines that killed 2 engines in ours. Also after the trans going out at about 115k and I did at least 4 flushes post breakdown. 3000$ just so I could sell the car. I personally would run or get rid of your ecoboost 2.0 unless you have a warranty on it. And if you have a 2013 escape the transmissions are not in junk yards and 2k for a used one, later models are easier to find but if you have a 13 run from it, carmax it, please do not dump one of these cars on anyone……
Is there not a potential problem with carbon crap getting into the cylinders and being blown out and into the turbo fan with possible damage to the blades?
Yes! if they are big enough; however little bits will not hurt anything. Thats what you see when carbon blows out the tailpipe on grandma's car from chunks coming off the valves and pistons,
If you use CRC and let it all break free yea kiss the turbo and cats goodbye. But a manual cleaning, is the best way, light liquid cleaner after like the ac delco, and a amsoil changeover.
This is not carbon this is oil from the crank case building up , understand this problem is from excessive cranck case pressure and oil blow by............the throttle plate was very clean with very little carbon on it
I have to recan't some of what I said there is carbon build up but oil is excessive in ecoboost, so everyone is using a catch can which is a simple fix for this engine , so I found a company that makes a intake spacer for these engines and with the advice of Steve to use CRC cleaner the spacer has threaded ports for injecting any thing you like CRC cleaner, NOS, gas, water, auqamist.................Boombaracing.com Did you know water can turn to steam and clean deposits, we use to use a pop bottle and poor water down the carb of the big V8's back in the day only when the engine is hot .
Rahsaan thomas the big thing is the head gaskets. Ford put in 2 engines in after this, having nothing to do with the carbon. In the end the carbon problems are dwarfed by the head gaskets leaking. If you have “any 4 cylinder” ecoboost have the pressure check your coolant and compression asap; before your powertrain goes out!
yes that is party true, but if you lookup the PCV system that has no “PCV” valve it basically shoots all the oil list directly on the back of the valves, thats why the new ecoboost has extra injectors now in front of the valves to cool and clean them. However I am done with turbos and ecoboost thats why I went with the hybrid. The transmissions are 3000K plus to fix and just too expensive to maintain without a warranty if any major drivetrain component goes out. I am by no means talking to you directly just venting about the ecoboost and the problems. Fyi if you want to not have EVAP problems do not overfill the any new ford it puts fuel in the canistor and throws charlcoal into the evap lines and cost you hundreds of dollars. When the pump stops refrain yourself from pumping more.
Jeremy its running fine, the big issue with it was the head gasket. The valve cleaning really helped after i did it but the shuddering was from the tiny amount of coolant leaking into the cylinders. If i waited after the warranty, ignored it; not pressed ford to check the compression, and leak test, i would have been stuck with replacing the engine.
LanceManAdventures great to hear. Just making a funny. Couldn’t have you replaced the head gasket yourself? If you had waited till after warranty. Wife’s escape is idling rough at idle from time to time and seems the power delivery is weird sometimes. I will check compression
They replaced the head the first time. Then the engine completely blew up. Then they did a long block; mind you weeks of waiting between. Unless you want to do the machine work i would get a long block or a post head gasket update model junk yard engine if its the gasket. These engines are so finicky you may end up doing the pull 2x if anything is not perfect. Not a lot of shops can put the proper finish on the heads and block for a proper seal even with a good mls gasket.
LanceManAdventures wow! Ok so a few questions: 1. What year did the update the head gasket? 2. Was your escape a 1.6 or 2.0 ecoboost? 3. How many miles did yours have when they replaced the head and engine? 4. Do you still have the vehicle? If so how many miles on it now?
It is a 2014, 2.0 eco, it had about 60k when started with the problems she fortunately had the extended warranty. I am not sure when they started putting the updated gaskets in new vehicles. But i know the replacement long blocks have them. There is a video showing the dumb unnecessary hole they put in the gasket between the cylinders on the gasket that is the problem.
Hey do you still have this vehicle? The reason we get carbon build up is due to the pcv system. It's a big problem in the focus st community aswell. Since the car is direct injected, there's no fuel that touches the valves, therefor no cleaning takes place. Oil from the pcv hits the hot valves, and what doesn't make it into the cylinder bakes on to the back of the valves. You should try looking into an oil catch can, I've got a Boomba stage 2 catch can and I pour 2-3 ounces of oil out of it every 3000 mile oil change. Does wonders for keeping carbon off of your valves.
Anything you do will void the factory warranty including a catch can. I have the 3.5 SHO and am terrified to even touch it with anything aftermarket. Ford does not like you nor will overlook anything you do to the ecoboost. But the problems now is a coolant leak that is causing a misfire that they cannot track down and are just throwing engines in as a fix. As i said in my other comment i will be doing another video as soon as i get it back after the second engine replacement to explain what to look for and ask for when you have a ghost misfire from the ecoboost.
@@scrappyitalian I've lost coolant in my 2017 Fusion. If it's so bad that you need another engine, wouldn't you see coolant in the engine oil with that milky white appearance? Either way I'll have them check it under warranty, but I'm interested in your thoughts on that.
Brian Heath it leaks into the cylinders directly, will not show up in the oil. They need to do a coolant pressure test and a compression test to find the leak. The leak is between the two middle cylinders and is very hard to catch. The coolant should never loose “any” fluid per ford or there is a problem. Make sure they do not talk you into just a head job the entire engine needs to be replaced.
@@scrappyitalian Thanks. Also, how do you know it's misfiring if a code doesn't show up? What do you say if they just shake their head and say, "we don't replace the whole engine under warranty because it's good enough to do a 'head job'"? (Does that mean they just refurb the valves, guides, and seats?)
NO WAY ….. not now, not ever. I could probably (eventually) get the cover off but there is no way I could ever get it back on. A good video indeed however for me it was more like a horror movie. I might have nightmares now for the next week,
I have a question, first did he remove the pieces of carbon and then apply the chemical? Or did he move the crankshaft to close the valve set of each cylinder? Thank you
The heat of the engine made the carbon pop off very easily, as i made sire it was at opp temp. My goal was not to make the valves as clean as new. Just enough so my chemical would work on the remainder.
Jason Photography nope, what would be worst is having a huge bit come off after using a chemical, and having a hydrolock type of situation. But carbon is actually soft so friction damage is not likely at all, however it can break off a blade of the turbo if enough went through, and damage the cats as well.
Engine mods for that 2.3? I want to find someone who has added a phat turbo to an Escape with 12 - 18 psi boost. Obviously that will require suspension mods, headers and exhaust plus the almighty dyno tune. Anyone been there with an Escape and achieved >300hp?
it is funny keeping up or spanking cars and trucks with the little ecoboost, that are just sure they are going to cut you off from a light, and you just leave them.
@@scrappyitalian i`ve already got set of new. But now i've seen a few videos about cleaning and catch can install where people don't replace them.. That's why i'm asking..
Yea 120k is a lot on one, the carbon buildup is bad at just 35k. However the big problem is you are on borrower time with the transmission, thats the mileage they like to go out. And its about a 3k dollar job at a private transmission shop. But taking it apart really is not as bad as you think just be careful with the connectors and evap hoses.
GreatGrandmasterWang yea it really isn’t that hard i did not get them squeaky clean as i did not want to scratch the valves i got ad much off as i could safely. Its the globs of carbon that has the most effect on airflow, and the process is easy enough to do every 35-45k. Just be careful with all the plastic parts.
No carbon fell in the combustion chamber the air wand blew all the carbon back out through the intake runners. I do not know where people are getting that the carbon fell into the engine the valves were completely closed and purged of all carbon that came off. Then i put a light coating of carbon removing chemical on the back of the valves.
Well the problem is the direct injection system does not spry fuel on the back of the intake vales like a traditional FI system does so there is no amount of cleaner you can put in the fuel to make any difference. Being Italian myself there is some validity in the old “Italian clean out”. I am not saying get yourself arrested, but not driving a WOT a few times a month will cause carbon to run wild, full synthetic oil can help a lot but running it hard helps move and burn out any buildup upstream of the cats. But cleaning it by hard is about the only way.
Just wondering how would you do this on a hot engine? By the time you get it apart it's no longer hot. You also run the risk of damaging the threads on the head from removing the steel bolts because aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than steel.. Just my opinion, I've been wrong before. When I talked to Ford about valve cleaning my 2017 2.0 Fusion, they told me they offer no service for the ecoboost engines. Doing this would void my warranty due to the possibility of a piece of carbon getting sucked into the turbo and causing damage. I tend to believe them because stealerships would want to sell you anything they can. All I'm saying is use caution and do research before attempting.
Do at your own risk.. but if you use the oil I recommend or fully synthetic like mobil one and change every 5 K you should be fine. Go to a bmw shop and ask them how they clean a direct injection with a turbo, manually. A brush cleaning, walnut blasting, or scraping is the the only way to get the chunks out. Fords only fix is a compleat head replacement. Which is a bad idea with the warping of the block, they did nit machine the block flush the first time and ended up replacing the long block. No codes no help from ford. The head will not go back right and then the engine will loose coolant. Have them pressure test the engine and coolant to make sure your misfire is not a bad head gasket first as it is a known issue even without a engine light one. The carbon is more of a performance loss due to airflow. What i am doing is just taking the most i can off the valves, not getting them spotless. I at least got the engine killer chunks out in case they broke loose. As long as the valves are closed and you back blow the chunks will come out as my video shows. And use the cleaner. The CRC method of just spraying while running does no take the big chunks off.
Trust me the engine will still be hot.....especially the internals.. plus what do you think happens when you gas up and send black smoke down the hwy. its carbon breaking up in the turbo.
@@scrappyitalian lol the long block was replaced at 22k because of the coolant issue. I'm starting to think these engines are junk. Right now I have no misfire of engine light but im hearing nothing but bad things about these engines and transmissions. The only good thing is the power pushed out of a small engine. I will be selling the car before it hits 60k lol good resale and let someone else have the problems.
Don not over think it, Also after 5 years when i did this video and 70k views not one person has come back and said their car messed up from carbon going through.
Mine is almost to 120k now after the engine replacement at about 60k. Just the purge valve and control arms has been the issue i have had to replace at this point. It is about 200$ us and runs on top of the engine that has been the issue thus far. Also a k&n filter will mess with it as well misfiring. Change plugs 25k one anything turbo. Loosing gas mileage is a good indicator of plugs or a filter.
So just from the comments I'm reading sound's like I need to install a catch can and the reason why I say this is because I'm starting to see oil coming from my throttle body however tomorrow I will be replacing the pcv valve / hose and plugs if someone could answer back to let me know I'm doing the right things that would be great.
Just make sure you are not under warranty. Ford will void it if you put a catch can on it. If you run boosted amsoil you should not get the buildup as bad or at all anymore. However you cannot go the 15k miles like amsoil says you can without a change or top off, you will run 2-3 qts low if you are not careful checking, “my experience”. Also run a cheap electric pump down the intake tube to the intercooler and pull any oil in it as well.
I really think the change to a premium oil that will not burn off is a better choice overall. Changing the oil 5000k miles, running at least 89 fuel. Keep and eye on the evap purge valve assembly, it tends to die 90k and up.
Ron David it is running about 32 mpg give or take hills and 29-30 with the ac running on the hwy. 21 in town but my wife has a heavy foot so is probably a little better than that.
thank you for your reply. Im going to clean soon my valves on my 2.0 ecoboost mondeo after 125,000 kilometers on the clock. I bought steel wire brush that will connect to screwdriver, do I need to worry about somthing? maybe Scratches that could cuase on the valves? any tips?
Ron David the valves are pretty hard i used a long thin screw driver and made sure the engine was hot and the carbon just popped off with little effort. No scratches. The access is so tight you will see.
LanceManAdventures damn man 32 on hills🤣 the highest i could ever realistically keep my wifes is about 28-29 thats going extremely easy flat ground nothing over 65. I will say hers used to say 23 mpg in her back and forth work commute only about 10 miles each way. But over the years ( we bought car new) her average is 21.5 now for work commute. So i figure its about time to do this procedure. Car has 91k miles never had intake off. Only ran 5-30 syn blend motorcraft oil. It did throw a check engine a few weeks ago for lean bank 1. I cleared it with my scanner and hasent came back yet. I think the trans is gonna go before anything else. That cold 2-3 shift is really sketchy.
Its kind of a birds nest with the direct injection engines, but basically everything gets pushed through the intake. If you are out of warranty i would suggest a catch can. But before your warranty is out make sure they so a compression test, and coolant pressure test for a bad head gasket. I put 2 engines in this car because of head gaskets “ford paid”. Truly after the gasket issues the carbon really isn’t the major problem with the 4 cylinder engines. At the least to get the updated head gasket. Have it checked it even if you are not having any problems. And you should “never” have to top off the coolant in the ecoboost engine, this came from a ford tech saying there is a head gasket leaking if you are having to put any coolant to get to the fill line in the overflow bottle.
There is the CRC method but it really does not take the big chunks out. There are a few videos that show how to do it, but i do not suggest is as you can wash out the turbo bearings, and burn out the cats if you are too heavy handed with the spray.
@@scrappyitalian I just replaced it, thanks to you👍 Thank you so much. This is my first time doing stuff to my car. Now I have a big confidence boost on taking car of my car in the future! saved me probably 500$ would give it to you if I had the money lol
You have to understand the runners are like 8 inches deep and more narrow than you think. Taking it apart hot and popping off the carbon was very easy as it was soft when hot. Just getting 90% is better than nothing, and truthfully the engine will probably burn up the head gasket first. The engine issues i was having was from the faulty head gaskets leaking coolant into the cylinder’s.
Also I did this job many years ago and did a update before i got rid of the car and recommend to never buy a Ecoboost unless you plan on unloading the vehicle when the warranty runs out.
Ross in Ontario if you do the job with the engine hot the carbon just pops off easily and is actually soft. So i just popped off the big stuff and really did not have to scrape the valves. Yes i used a long screwdriver but only wanted the big stuff off as i used the ac delco cleaner on the rest to take the rest off but not throw big carbon down the cylinders. Used the air gun to spread the cleaner and blow out the bulk carbon. I have gotten a lot of heat for valves being open but they were not. Switch over to synthetic like amsoil, do not go by the 15k oil change as the engine will go through oil and could run the car dry of oil. Still go to 7500 and if you can afford it just change it out every 5k. Also i suggest a trans change every oil change as well it is only about 3qts and is very easy after the first change and fluid leveling as i measure it and replace the same amount. Next oil change i will make a video about the trans and how I change it out every oil change.
If the back of any valve is carboned up enough to cause a misfire wouldn't this show up on a compression test? Or doesn't Ford publish compression specs? Can I assume this is a direct injection engine. And would using top tier gasoline prevent this, or at least delay it to over 100,000 miles?
Theodore Zuckerman the compression will be in the cylinder, not the valve area. The carbon sticks to the valve backs and valve rods. Fords fix is a 160$ chemical cleaning that does not take the mm’s of material off the valves at all. The only authorized ford fix is a head replacement. Take the plastic intake off like i did and scrape the carbon off. I am currently about to make another video about the coolant leak issues with the ecoboost engine 2.0 and 1.6 as i have replaced 2 engines so far at “fords expense” Not carbon related.
2 things lead to low compression: 1. piston rings that no longer seal well against the cylinder walls due to worn rings or warn pistons or worn cylinders, 2 valves that no longer seat well due to wear on the valve seating surface or the valve seat seating surface, or due to not closing completely due to Carbon on the Back of the Valve.
Theodore Zuckerman also there is a head gasket issues with this engine using coolant. Everyone with the 4cyl ecoboost needs a compression and coolant test. The head gaskets are letting go in cylinders 2-3. There is and updated gasket. But it is warping the blocks we well
@@scrappyitalian haha lol great video nonetheless, will be using this to help me do my 2.0l. I do have a question how do you know if the valves are up all the way for cleaning? I'm nervous I'll accidently leave them open just enough to let carbon in
not the big stuff, plus the valves were not completely open. what do you think happens when this big stuff breaks loose when people do the CRC method? every time you see someone gas up and black soot comes out the exhaust its breaking up carbon in the combustion chamber. carbon is not like a rock. and when it is warm it is very soft.
I am very confused about why you're escape with only 60,000 miles on it is having this sort of problem. I have the same vehicle, 2014 Ford escape EcoBoost 2 l engine. It has 104,000 miles on it now and runs beautifully. I've never heard of the type of service you're talking about with the valve service or whatever. It's nowhere in my owners manual. Also the manufacturer and the owner's manual calls for having the oil changed every 10,000 MI under normal service conditions. And the spark plugs need to be changed at 100,000 miles. I feel something else is going on here that's causing this problem with your vehicle. You shouldn't have to be cleaning the valves at 60,000 miles on this type and year of Ford
Carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves is an industry-wide issue with all GDI engines (with the exception of some newer GDI engines with hybrid port-injection systems). In non GDI designs, the fuel is injected into the intake port or throttle body, so you have a constant flow of fuel washing the back of the intake valves as the air-fuel mixture is drawn into the cylinders. Carbon buildup comes from the PCV system, which ventilates crankcase vapors and routes it into the intake system to be burned by the engine. The vapors contain oil, and combustion byproducts and when they come into contact with the rear of a hot intake valve, it begins to form a carbon deposit that builds up over time. As I mentioned before, in nonGDI engines, there is a fuel-air vapor constantly washing the back of the valve, preventing buildup from occurring. In a GDI engine such as the Ecoboost engines, the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, bypassing the intake valves, so those PCV vapor crud deposits never get a chance to be removed, because they never come into contact with any fuel. There are a lot of variables that can determine if and when this buildup becomes a problem that you begin to notice as altered performance. The amount of blow-by a particular engine has, the kind and quality of engine oil you use, the interval between oil changes, the kind of driving you do, and the number of miles on the engine. Not everyone will see noticeable driving issues even at the number of miles you have accrued. But, if you have a standard GDI engine, rest assured there is carbon buildup on the rear of your intake valves that wouldnt otherwise be there if it wasnt a GDI engine. When it gets really bad, the deposits can actually interfere with valve seating, and if a big chunk breaks off, and goes thru and hits a spinning turbo blade on the way out of the engine, it could kill the turbocharger. Whether Ford bothered to mention it is irrelevant. It is a widely recognized issue with these types of engines regardless of brand.
Ross in Ontario yes ford replaced the engine 2x basically the head then the long block in this escape; which we still have. After the head gasket the carbon issue really is kind of a nuisance more than a big problem. After the updated gasket it has not had many issues other than the passenger side likes to eat up the ball joint, “90k replace it”, and i suggest only a ford unit to replace it. FYI it only comes with the whole control arm, unbolt the sway bar makes it a breeze to replace.
You realize you are commenting on a video over 4 years old? I am also a certified industrial mechanic with the degree. Know more about hydraulics than any average mechanic, and the effect of liquids in a confined space. You defiantly did not see me blow out the excess fluid, with the air wand, and i have not watched my own video in like 2 years now, to address all those with armchair opinions. The carbon is not the issue with this crap engine, it is the head gasket, and the crap transmission.. good luck with the 3000k trans going out, and 6k head gasket repair worrying about my carbon cleaning video….
yea you need to unplug the the electric throttle bodies before you do any work with them. there is a danger got it from my brother a GM tech, a few people have gotten a little rude about it but you can ask a tech. it has a ice breaking function and if the throttle body does a self check and your fingers are in there between the the butterfly. there is a possibility for injury.
@@scrappyitalian almost sounds unbelievable, however I didn't doubt what you said, thanks for the heads up, I tend to like to fool around diy on my vehicles and have been getting better at disconnecting the battery when I work on my trucks and only do so because I watch different videos on RUclips I do have a ecoboost engine and I'm sure I'll tinker with the throttle body someday that's how I came across your video; great by the way and I subscribed
@@rogeliovmartinez yea i thought this was like a blinker fluid joke but it isn’t. It is like how the coil on plugs the LS engines have lethal voltage, they even come with warnings now.
@@rogeliovmartinez and Thankyou so much for the sub! Its so hard now to get any subs; little channels like mine are kind of giving up because there is no revenue until you get 1000. So Thankyou again!
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
thank you for making what appears to be the only video that shows how to get to the throttle body
I had no idea so many years ago when i made this it would still be used so much! Thank-you so much!
Great video. Especially helpful was the info about avoiding getting your fingers cut off. A couple of things I plan to do as I'm headed into this job on the same engine. 1. Also remove the spark plugs and blow out from above. Especially if you don't plan on turning the crankshaft to close the valves as you clean. 2. I'm adding an oil separator to the PVC. I chose J&L Oil Separator Co. This should help keep the valves clean so you don't have to do this job every 20k miles or whatever.
Also if you can tolerate the heat from a hot engine it makes the big carbon just pop off from still being hot. Also there are a whole lot more options tool wise now from when i posted the video. I believe i had about the first diy valve cleaning, and the only people who would even clean the valves at the time were GDI familiar german car techs.
Great job , you're the only person who did this on RUclips 👍
Thanks a bunch! I have gotten quite a bit of negative comments, however since I did this job years ago. I just dug into this project blind and came out ok.
Just finished doing this on my '17 with 52k thanks to your video. Only thing I found not documented in the video was the PCV connection on lower back under side of the intake near the throttle body. My valves where slight better condition than the ones in the video but not by much. The carbon was much softer than I anticipated. I would equate it to old chassis grease that leaked out of a ball joint. It was clumpy, but could squish it with my fingers. When I got the intake off, the valves for 1, 2, 4 were closed. After I cleaned these I turned the crank pulley 90 degrees and ended up with the number 3 cylinder valves closed. My cleaning process was #1 scrape with screw driver #2 blow out with air wand #3 clean with circular bristle brush #4 blow out with air wand #5 spray CRC GCI intake cleaner #6 wrap screw driver with paper towel, secure with tape insert into intake runner and allow to absorb cleaner #7 spray brake clean #8 absorb with paper towel, #8 blow out with air wand. Planning on doing the same process now on my '13 F150 with 72k. Thanks again for the video documentation.
Yea thats why i said to work on it hot and the carbon jus pops off. Good job! Its amazing how 10k in mileage can make a difference, and better fuel. She was running cheap 87 before she met me, run a minimum of 89. It is so cool that a video I made so many years ago is still helping people.
@@scrappyitalian I would add another small thing to lessen the carbon buildup would be run "top tier" grade fuel. Around my parts Costco and QuikTrip have top tier grade fuel. www.toptiergas.com/station-finder/
@@MrJoedotmac same here. Wife now alternates gas grades between fill ups. Will be installing a catch can to the recirculation into the intake.
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Hello Lance,
I have a 2.4L ecotec direct injection.
What worked very well for me was removing the intake manifold while the engine was still at normal operating temperature and spraying the intake valves with Carb Cleaner (I used Johnsen's Carb/Intake Valve Cleaner).
The chemical would boil up and out with some very nasty carbon deposits.
Cheers,
Whatever works is great!
That's a very good idea actually. However, it could be riskier on a turbo engine such as these.
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
The idle feels better and the fuel mileage is back up to about where it was new.
I’ve used Shell V-Power Nitro+ for 3 years now and it has kept my 2014 Escape 2.0 AWD Titanium running smooth. Close to 103K miles and still smooth and powerful.
Your gasoline never sees the back of the intake valves, because this is a direct injection engine. Top tier gas won't help here.
the oil is key amsoil and change it at 5k
Good work bud. I got over 220k km on my 2013 and am not looking forward to doing this. I heard that some guys are using lacquer cleaner/thinner to help dissolve the carbon , they were doing one set of valves at a time then rotate the crank to close the next set of valves and so on. Then suck or blow out the chamber. Guess they don’t want any CHUNKS making it thru to the turbo. 👍
Yea i have heard a lot of comments the carbon going through the turbo and the CRC spray method i used on my SHO sent carbon out the back like a diesel. My thoughts are use amsoil, or a good synthetic to slow the carbon. A catch can would be the best option if out of power train warranty.
Yeah now on thinking about all this, I have decided to bypass this Ford repair and head out to purchase a Honda Ridgeline instead. Im getting too damned old to be doing this kind of shit.
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
I used this as a guide to replace the electronic throttle control module. Thanks for uploading.
Glad it helped
Great job filming this, well done.
Thank you very much!
very nice, thx for your work, I have an smax mk2 2015 2.0 ecoboost, now with 105000 km I think now is the time to check it "thumbs up".
Lexon 2262 it is really a whole lot easier than you think. The intake tubes are very narrow so expect that and use a air wand to blow the carbon back out and make sure the engine it nice and warm, the carbon just pops right off. Sparkling clean would be ideal but get the main junk out and sprat sum of the cleaner i use and let it sit and wrk. Do not spray so much it washes out the turbos or makes a hydrolock condition; use your best judgment. As long as the chunks are gone you will be good for another 45k +. Also buy the new intake gaskets with the mileage you have. And be sure careful with the stock electrical connectors esp the ones under the intake.
This really was a fairly simple thing to do all i would say is do not tell ford what you did and get a new set of intake gaskets even if they look ok.
Amsoil put out a paper showing it has 45% less volatility or separation loss under load than RP or Mobil 1. This was tested for the purpose of the ecoboost base to eliminate most of the issues of oil vapor through the PCV system. An outfit in Florida also sells a catch can for these with the proper check valve for under boost.
I use amsoil now; however.... you cannot go by the long oil change interval you need to change it sooner as i blew through 2+ quarts of oil between the long amsoil interval. It will go through more oil using the amsoil so be careful! Yes you can top it off but i still change it at the 7500.
All I use is amsoil in my cars
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Remember i only basically popped off the soft carbon with the long screwdriver and did not “scrap” the valves because it was so soft and easily came off, as i let the engine stay hot.
Use a can of crc intake valve cleaner. stuff works wonders and it doesnt require you to take your whole intake manifold off. Simply spray it through a vacuum line on the intake manifold and follow the instructions. Stuff works great. I use a can every other oil change and my valves are fairly clean
Barn find rebuilds i used it on my 3.5 ecoboost and with low miles it works fine. But i would run a snake scope and make sure because with how thick the carbon can get there is no amount of chemical that will break it loose. If you saw how big the carbon bits were you would freak out if those chunks broke off and blew directly into the cylinders using a chemical. Every 15k is cool but if you are over 45k i would take i apart and clean it manually.
I agree with that. id say a can every 5-10k miles would keep the motor happy. I've really grown to like these 4 and 6 cylinder ecoboost motors. They're actually a lot easier to work on than people think. I have a 2002 ranger with a 2.0 eco swapped into it. Runs like a champ.
Barn find rebuilds keep an eye on the coolant level and do frequent coolant pressure checks., every 10k at the min. The 4 bangers go through head gasket’s in all forms of ecoboost because off poor head design and warping issues, with the exception of the v6 3.5. Ford put 2 engines in my escape because of the head gasket issues. If you have to add “any” coolant you have a leak; that is coming directly from ford.
I do check up on my coolant atleast once every 2 weeks. No leaks here. The motor in my truck came out of a 2014 escape with 10k miles on it. Kinda seems to be a hit or miss.If my head gasket was leaking I would just pull the motor out and get the block resurfaced, not a huge deal. My 2.0 is in a rwd configuration so pulling the motor is as simple as unbloting the motor mounts and transmission then a bunch of lines and it comes right out. In the process of doing this motor swap I had the motor full installed and pulled out atleast 3 times already. Its a really fun daily driver for the most part. 25 psi of boost on a 4 banger is crazy.
Barn find rebuilds yea i try to run midgrade to premium if the temps are over 85. Keeps the detonation down. I think that is part of the problem is running 87, even though ford says its fine in them.
Thanks for all your work on this but there is no way I'm attempting this.
With how much labor costs, you can buy all the tools do it yourself and know what was done. Just dive in and take your time.
Thanks for the work i think ii will try mine!
Have fun!
That's why I added a catch can after the warranty finished. You would be surprised how much gunk gets caught in there.
Im so pissed off at myself for not doing this years ago. Now with the much higher prices and my age, Im sure it will be a general pain in the butt. Even the newer pcv plate below the intake is over $100 buck (CND) , and that is just a plastic plate. Why did I wait so long .....
@@packratswhatif.3990 The PCV is so painful to get to. I have to change mine now and I am not looking forward to doing this job. Overall the 2.0 is still working great at 290,000 km.
yea for sure but i suggest amsoil
@@scrappyitalian Thank you! I will check them out for my next ride!
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Really respective
I appreciate what you did and doing
Thankyou so much! It is hard to get much positive feedback! This was my first attempt so i was learning as i went.
Thanks for this video! Very helpful!
You're very welcome!
This video helped my decision. I was going to buy a 2021 f150 3.5 eco boost and now I am buying either a Tundra or Tacoma. Ford should fix any problem wether the Check engine light is on or not. Bastards
yea we have put thousands into this car and yea we have loved it and hated it at the same time. If it were not for the extended warranties we would have been in real financial trouble.
Why didn’t you look into getting an after market blow bye catch can . The direct injection are susceptible to carbon build up on the back of the valves.PCV valves aren’t sufficient to do the job maybe on a naturally aspirated engine . The European model cars VW, BMW, BENZ had the same problems so that’s why the the catch cans are good for this problem.
ford will not warranty it with a catch can. however switching to mobil one, or amsoil in my case helps a lot.
Thanks for the tour!
You bet!
There are some turbo safe intake cleaners out there I've done one treatment on my fusion and it is certainly a less labor intensive method for this kind of maintenance
Jacob fill us in... what "turbo safe intake cleaners..." are you talking about?
@@dustoff499 I belive CRC makes it
Here is ruclips.net/video/SU8iUcPkq6s/видео.html
crc seems to be ok
Thanks for doing this Video. My 2014 with over 200K is losing power when you hit the gas hard like trying to pass. I am thinking the throttle body needs a good cleaning.and maybe the valves since I will be in there. So thanks for posting.
Make sure your trans is good, mine went out at 120k the rebuild was 3k. Also the head gaskets like to go out on them. I would do a pressure test and compression test.
ford research and development should have caught the excessive blowby under boost conditions and fixed it
with a catch tank LOL which I have to buy now
Catch can only thing that will cut it down
Thats what the Germans figured out years ago and fixed or went away with the direct injection technology.
The newer generations are coming with port injection to clean values now.
@@scrappyitalian Negative. GDI is here to stay. Most manufacturers (Mercedes, VW and BMW included) have gone to dual injectors. One in the cylinder and one in the traditional port location to wash the backside of the valves.
My 2018 has 60k miles on it and I haven't cleaned it yet, replaced the plugs. This is what I'll do when I change the oil next as the idle shudders a bit so the fuel probably isn't mixing right due to the air flow restrictions.
Legend Cox make sure you do a coolant pressure test, and a compression test to make sure your head gasket is not about to go as well. The shuddering can be from a know head gasket leak that they have. Ford put 2 engines in our escape before they got it right with a long block the second time.
@@scrappyitalian yeah that has crossed my research as well although its low on my suspicion list since it has used a normal amount of coolant over the last 60k if that is the case im 1000 miles out of warranty . ) :
Your engine should have port injection as well so the valves shouldn't be that bad.
@@williamwchuang Unfortunately they didnt put it on this version of the engine (2018 2.0 Ecoboost in a ford escape) like i thought. It is only direct injection. I have cleaned it since and there were some decent deposits on the valves, i suppose it shiuld be done around every 50k miles or so and id like to get a walnut blasting kit which seems to work best.
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
1st thanks for mentioning the TB. Sticking a finger in their could have devastating effects.
I realize it does sound funny and i say throttle body about 20 times but i can happen.😁
BG makes an engine restoration kit
It’s pricey but it will clean your engine almost brand new.
Goes for about 350 dollars but if your engine is a mess this will clean it for sure
Plenty of videos on you tube
Well after going all the cleaning and thinking the carbo was the reason for the hesitation and odd drivability problems the main thing is the killing of the engines with the crappy head gasket in the first gen engines that killed 2 engines in ours. Also after the trans going out at about 115k and I did at least 4 flushes post breakdown. 3000$ just so I could sell the car. I personally would run or get rid of your ecoboost 2.0 unless you have a warranty on it. And if you have a 2013 escape the transmissions are not in junk yards and 2k for a used one, later models are easier to find but if you have a 13 run from it, carmax it, please do not dump one of these cars on anyone……
Hope to make my ecoboost run better as well
me too
Is there not a potential problem with carbon crap getting into the cylinders and being blown out and into the turbo fan with possible damage to the blades?
Yes! if they are big enough; however little bits will not hurt anything. Thats what you see when carbon blows out the tailpipe on grandma's car from chunks coming off the valves and pistons,
@@scrappyitalian What about the "honey comb" in the CAT ? wont it block that?
If you use CRC and let it all break free yea kiss the turbo and cats goodbye. But a manual cleaning, is the best way, light liquid cleaner after like the ac delco, and a amsoil changeover.
This is not carbon this is oil from the crank case building up , understand this problem is from excessive cranck case pressure and oil blow by............the throttle plate was very clean with very little carbon on it
Shannon Spears finally someone who knows what they are saying instead if critiquing me at every turn. 🤟🏼
I have to recan't some of what I said there is carbon build up but oil is excessive in ecoboost, so everyone is using a catch can which is a simple fix for this engine , so I found a company that makes a intake spacer for these engines and with the advice of Steve to use CRC cleaner the spacer has threaded ports for injecting any thing you like CRC cleaner, NOS, gas, water, auqamist.................Boombaracing.com
Did you know water can turn to steam and clean deposits, we use to use a pop bottle and poor water down the carb of the big V8's back in the day only when the engine is hot .
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Also change your high and low pressure fuel sensors that’s also a problem with this engine
Rahsaan thomas the big thing is the head gaskets. Ford put in 2 engines in after this, having nothing to do with the carbon. In the end the carbon problems are dwarfed by the head gaskets leaking. If you have “any 4 cylinder” ecoboost have the pressure check your coolant and compression asap; before your powertrain goes out!
all the build up is from the intercooler blowing oil either drain your cooler or add a oil catch
yes that is party true, but if you lookup the PCV system that has no “PCV” valve it basically shoots all the oil list directly on the back of the valves, thats why the new ecoboost has extra injectors now in front of the valves to cool and clean them. However I am done with turbos and ecoboost thats why I went with the hybrid. The transmissions are 3000K plus to fix and just too expensive to maintain without a warranty if any major drivetrain component goes out. I am by no means talking to you directly just venting about the ecoboost and the problems. Fyi if you want to not have EVAP problems do not overfill the any new ford it puts fuel in the canistor and throws charlcoal into the evap lines and cost you hundreds of dollars. When the pump stops refrain yourself from pumping more.
Legend says he is still trying to get that escape to run again.
Jeremy its running fine, the big issue with it was the head gasket. The valve cleaning really helped after i did it but the shuddering was from the tiny amount of coolant leaking into the cylinders. If i waited after the warranty, ignored it; not pressed ford to check the compression, and leak test, i would have been stuck with replacing the engine.
LanceManAdventures great to hear. Just making a funny. Couldn’t have you replaced the head gasket yourself? If you had waited till after warranty. Wife’s escape is idling rough at idle from time to time and seems the power delivery is weird sometimes. I will check compression
They replaced the head the first time. Then the engine completely blew up. Then they did a long block; mind you weeks of waiting between. Unless you want to do the machine work i would get a long block or a post head gasket update model junk yard engine if its the gasket. These engines are so finicky you may end up doing the pull 2x if anything is not perfect. Not a lot of shops can put the proper finish on the heads and block for a proper seal even with a good mls gasket.
LanceManAdventures wow! Ok so a few questions: 1. What year did the update the head gasket? 2. Was your escape a 1.6 or 2.0 ecoboost? 3. How many miles did yours have when they replaced the head and engine? 4. Do you still have the vehicle? If so how many miles on it now?
It is a 2014, 2.0 eco, it had about 60k when started with the problems she fortunately had the extended warranty. I am not sure when they started putting the updated gaskets in new vehicles. But i know the replacement long blocks have them. There is a video showing the dumb unnecessary hole they put in the gasket between the cylinders on the gasket that is the problem.
Interesting job hope it worked out
So do I
Hey do you still have this vehicle? The reason we get carbon build up is due to the pcv system. It's a big problem in the focus st community aswell. Since the car is direct injected, there's no fuel that touches the valves, therefor no cleaning takes place. Oil from the pcv hits the hot valves, and what doesn't make it into the cylinder bakes on to the back of the valves. You should try looking into an oil catch can, I've got a Boomba stage 2 catch can and I pour 2-3 ounces of oil out of it every 3000 mile oil change. Does wonders for keeping carbon off of your valves.
Anything you do will void the factory warranty including a catch can. I have the 3.5 SHO and am terrified to even touch it with anything aftermarket. Ford does not like you nor will overlook anything you do to the ecoboost. But the problems now is a coolant leak that is causing a misfire that they cannot track down and are just throwing engines in as a fix. As i said in my other comment i will be doing another video as soon as i get it back after the second engine replacement to explain what to look for and ask for when you have a ghost misfire from the ecoboost.
The biggest problem is not the carbon but a poor head gasket design and block configuration. If you loose coolant at all u need another engine....
@@scrappyitalian I've lost coolant in my 2017 Fusion. If it's so bad that you need another engine, wouldn't you see coolant in the engine oil with that milky white appearance? Either way I'll have them check it under warranty, but I'm interested in your thoughts on that.
Brian Heath it leaks into the cylinders directly, will not show up in the oil. They need to do a coolant pressure test and a compression test to find the leak. The leak is between the two middle cylinders and is very hard to catch. The coolant should never loose “any” fluid per ford or there is a problem. Make sure they do not talk you into just a head job the entire engine needs to be replaced.
@@scrappyitalian Thanks. Also, how do you know it's misfiring if a code doesn't show up?
What do you say if they just shake their head and say, "we don't replace the whole engine under warranty because it's good enough to do a 'head job'"? (Does that mean they just refurb the valves, guides, and seats?)
How about using a small vacuum cleaner to suck the carbon out.
The hole is very deep, you would need to make a custom adapter.
NO WAY ….. not now, not ever. I could probably (eventually) get the cover off but there is no way I could ever get it back on. A good video indeed however for me it was more like a horror movie.
I might have nightmares now for the next week,
Just remember master Yoda.. Try not Do!
I have a question, first did he remove the pieces of carbon and then apply the chemical? Or did he move the crankshaft to close the valve set of each cylinder?
Thank you
The heat of the engine made the carbon pop off very easily, as i made sire it was at opp temp. My goal was not to make the valves as clean as new. Just enough so my chemical would work on the remainder.
Thank you. Pretty good video.
Glad you liked it!
Isn't there a danger of one of these chunks of carbon falling into the Cylinder Head and scoring the cylinder wall?
Jason Photography nope, what would be worst is having a huge bit come off after using a chemical, and having a hydrolock type of situation. But carbon is actually soft so friction damage is not likely at all, however it can break off a blade of the turbo if enough went through, and damage the cats as well.
Engine mods for that 2.3? I want to find someone who has added a phat turbo to an Escape with 12 - 18 psi boost. Obviously that will require suspension mods, headers and exhaust plus the almighty dyno tune. Anyone been there with an Escape and achieved >300hp?
Jeff Gillis 22lbs for me right now. Probably the only one in the world with an escape like that.
it is funny keeping up or spanking cars and trucks with the little ecoboost, that are just sure they are going to cut you off from a light, and you just leave them.
I put a catch can in my 2015 about 18 months ago. My valves were just starting to crud up.
good decision esp after warranty
To prevent most of this www.RXCatchcans.com system. There is also excessive wear to the soft guides from these hard deposits.
just do not kill your warranty
Great manual! Is it needed to replace intake manifold gaskets? 2017, 63k miles, if it's important
The O ring gaskets are optional but i would. You can get a new set and if the old ones look good, take back the new ones.
@@scrappyitalian i`ve already got set of new. But now i've seen a few videos about cleaning and catch can install where people don't replace them.. That's why i'm asking..
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Thanks!! How many miles the escape have?? Mine is almost 120kmiles and dont know if is requiered..im affraid of disambly..thanks for video
Yea 120k is a lot on one, the carbon buildup is bad at just 35k. However the big problem is you are on borrower time with the transmission, thats the mileage they like to go out. And its about a 3k dollar job at a private transmission shop. But taking it apart really is not as bad as you think just be careful with the connectors and evap hoses.
@@scrappyitalian dont scare me..i change the fluid at 40kmiles..original motorcraft..already do 2 changes
Not problems or anything that i notice
Change the trans fluid every other oil change if you can.
Doesn’t look that bad. Carbon build up is mostly on the valve stem.
GreatGrandmasterWang yea it really isn’t that hard i did not get them squeaky clean as i did not want to scratch the valves i got ad much off as i could safely. Its the globs of carbon that has the most effect on airflow, and the process is easy enough to do every 35-45k. Just be careful with all the plastic parts.
LanceManAdventures I have the 1.5L ecoboost. I don't know if carbon build up is still present, but so far I haven't read any issues with this engine.
GreatGrandmasterWang if you have over 45k + they all have the same issue. Even the 3.5 i dread doing my SHO
How much carbon fell through the open valves?
No carbon fell in the combustion chamber the air wand blew all the carbon back out through the intake runners. I do not know where people are getting that the carbon fell into the engine the valves were completely closed and purged of all carbon that came off. Then i put a light coating of carbon removing chemical on the back of the valves.
Something nobody is talking about is using cleaning agents in the gas, can clog Converters fast.
Well the problem is the direct injection system does not spry fuel on the back of the intake vales like a traditional FI system does so there is no amount of cleaner you can put in the fuel to make any difference. Being Italian myself there is some validity in the old “Italian clean out”. I am not saying get yourself arrested, but not driving a WOT a few times a month will cause carbon to run wild, full synthetic oil can help a lot but running it hard helps move and burn out any buildup upstream of the cats. But cleaning it by hard is about the only way.
Just wondering how would you do this on a hot engine? By the time you get it apart it's no longer hot. You also run the risk of damaging the threads on the head from removing the steel bolts because aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than steel.. Just my opinion, I've been wrong before. When I talked to Ford about valve cleaning my 2017 2.0 Fusion, they told me they offer no service for the ecoboost engines. Doing this would void my warranty due to the possibility of a piece of carbon getting sucked into the turbo and causing damage. I tend to believe them because stealerships would want to sell you anything they can. All I'm saying is use caution and do research before attempting.
Do at your own risk.. but if you use the oil I recommend or fully synthetic like mobil one and change every 5 K you should be fine. Go to a bmw shop and ask them how they clean a direct injection with a turbo, manually. A brush cleaning, walnut blasting, or scraping is the the only way to get the chunks out. Fords only fix is a compleat head replacement. Which is a bad idea with the warping of the block, they did nit machine the block flush the first time and ended up replacing the long block. No codes no help from ford. The head will not go back right and then the engine will loose coolant. Have them pressure test the engine and coolant to make sure your misfire is not a bad head gasket first as it is a known issue even without a engine light one. The carbon is more of a performance loss due to airflow. What i am doing is just taking the most i can off the valves, not getting them spotless. I at least got the engine killer chunks out in case they broke loose. As long as the valves are closed and you back blow the chunks will come out as my video shows. And use the cleaner. The CRC method of just spraying while running does no take the big chunks off.
Trust me the engine will still be hot.....especially the internals.. plus what do you think happens when you gas up and send black smoke down the hwy. its carbon breaking up in the turbo.
@@scrappyitalian lol the long block was replaced at 22k because of the coolant issue. I'm starting to think these engines are junk. Right now I have no misfire of engine light but im hearing nothing but bad things about these engines and transmissions. The only good thing is the power pushed out of a small engine. I will be selling the car before it hits 60k lol good resale and let someone else have the problems.
Don not over think it, Also after 5 years when i did this video and 70k views not one person has come back and said their car messed up from carbon going through.
Mine is almost to 120k now after the engine replacement at about 60k. Just the purge valve and control arms has been the issue i have had to replace at this point. It is about 200$ us and runs on top of the engine that has been the issue thus far. Also a k&n filter will mess with it as well misfiring. Change plugs 25k one anything turbo. Loosing gas mileage is a good indicator of plugs or a filter.
So just from the comments I'm reading sound's like I need to install a catch can and the reason why I say this is because I'm starting to see oil coming from my throttle body however tomorrow I will be replacing the pcv valve / hose and plugs if someone could answer back to let me know I'm doing the right things that would be great.
Just make sure you are not under warranty. Ford will void it if you put a catch can on it. If you run boosted amsoil you should not get the buildup as bad or at all anymore. However you cannot go the 15k miles like amsoil says you can without a change or top off, you will run 2-3 qts low if you are not careful checking, “my experience”. Also run a cheap electric pump down the intake tube to the intercooler and pull any oil in it as well.
@@scrappyitalian I change mine every 3000 and I use full synthetic
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Purge valve. Seems to be a common thing
Yea i just did mine last month when the gas fill went nuts and pulled the code for the purge valve. 160$ and back on the road.
Great video man!!
thanks for the positive comment it means a lot!
#directinjectionprobs Did something similar with my BMW which has a longitudinal layout. Talk about hell.
Yea even the germans learned years ago direct injection is not the answer without more engineering.
Have you cleaned the carbon on your SHO as well?
I have done the CRC carbon cleaner spray crossing my fingers. Lol
I think I’ll do the same. 🤞🏻
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
I won't take off clapan, sistem EGR.
I really think the change to a premium oil that will not burn off is a better choice overall. Changing the oil 5000k miles, running at least 89 fuel. Keep and eye on the evap purge valve assembly, it tends to die 90k and up.
Hey , did you feel any different after the cleaning?
How about the fuel consumption?
Ron David it is running about 32 mpg give or take hills and 29-30 with the ac running on the hwy. 21 in town but my wife has a heavy foot so is probably a little better than that.
thank you for your reply.
Im going to clean soon my valves on my 2.0 ecoboost mondeo after 125,000 kilometers on the clock.
I bought steel wire brush that will connect to screwdriver, do I need to worry about somthing? maybe Scratches that could cuase on the valves? any tips?
Ron David the valves are pretty hard i used a long thin screw driver and made sure the engine was hot and the carbon just popped off with little effort. No scratches. The access is so tight you will see.
LanceManAdventures damn man 32 on hills🤣 the highest i could ever realistically keep my wifes is about 28-29 thats going extremely easy flat ground nothing over 65. I will say hers used to say 23 mpg in her back and forth work commute only about 10 miles each way. But over the years ( we bought car new) her average is 21.5 now for work commute. So i figure its about time to do this procedure. Car has 91k miles never had intake off. Only ran 5-30 syn blend motorcraft oil. It did throw a check engine a few weeks ago for lean bank 1. I cleared it with my scanner and hasent came back yet. I think the trans is gonna go before anything else. That cold 2-3 shift is really sketchy.
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Hey do you have any idea where is the EGR in this model? Or by chance, do you know where can I get a manual or engine diagram?
Its kind of a birds nest with the direct injection engines, but basically everything gets pushed through the intake. If you are out of warranty i would suggest a catch can. But before your warranty is out make sure they so a compression test, and coolant pressure test for a bad head gasket. I put 2 engines in this car because of head gaskets “ford paid”. Truly after the gasket issues the carbon really isn’t the major problem with the 4 cylinder engines. At the least to get the updated head gasket. Have it checked it even if you are not having any problems. And you should “never” have to top off the coolant in the ecoboost engine, this came from a ford tech saying there is a head gasket leaking if you are having to put any coolant to get to the fill line in the overflow bottle.
ecoboost发动机没有egr阀，是靠重叠的进排气来实现EGR阀的功能的
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
How do you clean the throttle body without taking off the intake?
There is the CRC method but it really does not take the big chunks out. There are a few videos that show how to do it, but i do not suggest is as you can wash out the turbo bearings, and burn out the cats if you are too heavy handed with the spray.
@@scrappyitalian I just replaced it, thanks to you👍 Thank you so much. This is my first time doing stuff to my car. Now I have a big confidence boost on taking car of my car in the future! saved me probably 500$ would give it to you if I had the money lol
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
Get a bottle brush and some kerosene war kerosene up so it gose in hot scrub it then it will vaporise then thin vacuum with rag so it don't enter vac
You have to understand the runners are like 8 inches deep and more narrow than you think. Taking it apart hot and popping off the carbon was very easy as it was soft when hot. Just getting 90% is better than nothing, and truthfully the engine will probably burn up the head gasket first. The engine issues i was having was from the faulty head gaskets leaking coolant into the cylinder’s.
Also I did this job many years ago and did a update before i got rid of the car and recommend to never buy a Ecoboost unless you plan on unloading the vehicle when the warranty runs out.
What kind of “Brush” do you recommend to clean the valves ?
Ross in Ontario if you do the job with the engine hot the carbon just pops off easily and is actually soft. So i just popped off the big stuff and really did not have to scrape the valves. Yes i used a long screwdriver but only wanted the big stuff off as i used the ac delco cleaner on the rest to take the rest off but not throw big carbon down the cylinders. Used the air gun to spread the cleaner and blow out the bulk carbon. I have gotten a lot of heat for valves being open but they were not. Switch over to synthetic like amsoil, do not go by the 15k oil change as the engine will go through oil and could run the car dry of oil. Still go to 7500 and if you can afford it just change it out every 5k. Also i suggest a trans change every oil change as well it is only about 3qts and is very easy after the first change and fluid leveling as i measure it and replace the same amount. Next oil change i will make a video about the trans and how I change it out every oil change.
If the back of any valve is carboned up enough to cause a misfire wouldn't this show up on a compression test? Or doesn't Ford publish compression specs? Can I assume this is a direct injection engine. And would using top tier gasoline prevent this, or at least delay it to over 100,000 miles?
Theodore Zuckerman the compression will be in the cylinder, not the valve area. The carbon sticks to the valve backs and valve rods. Fords fix is a 160$ chemical cleaning that does not take the mm’s of material off the valves at all. The only authorized ford fix is a head replacement. Take the plastic intake off like i did and scrape the carbon off. I am currently about to make another video about the coolant leak issues with the ecoboost engine 2.0 and 1.6 as i have replaced 2 engines so far at “fords expense” Not carbon related.
2 things lead to low compression: 1. piston rings that no longer seal well against the cylinder walls due to worn rings or warn pistons or worn cylinders, 2 valves that no longer seat well due to wear on the valve seating surface or the valve seat seating surface, or due to not closing completely due to Carbon on the Back of the Valve.
Theodore Zuckerman also there is a head gasket issues with this engine using coolant. Everyone with the 4cyl ecoboost needs a compression and coolant test. The head gaskets are letting go in cylinders 2-3. There is and updated gasket. But it is warping the blocks we well
What car is this in.? That looks nothing like my 2014 ford fusion 2.0 ecoboost
Joe Hercik 2014 escape titanium.
Thanks completely different then the 2014 ford fusion 2.0 lol
I did not see this reply and i apologize for not messaging back in a timely manner, i hope everything is going well and any issues were worked out.
19:43... flashlight???
This was like one of my first youtube videos ever. learning proces.🤷🏼♂️
@@scrappyitalian haha lol great video nonetheless, will be using this to help me do my 2.0l. I do have a question how do you know if the valves are up all the way for cleaning? I'm nervous I'll accidently leave them open just enough to let carbon in
I appreciate the feedback!
but didn't some of the carbon go into the cylinder that the valves were open?
not the big stuff, plus the valves were not completely open. what do you think happens when this big stuff breaks loose when people do the CRC method? every time you see someone gas up and black soot comes out the exhaust its breaking up carbon in the combustion chamber. carbon is not like a rock. and when it is warm it is very soft.
I am very confused about why you're escape with only 60,000 miles on it is having this sort of problem. I have the same vehicle, 2014 Ford escape EcoBoost 2 l engine. It has 104,000 miles on it now and runs beautifully. I've never heard of the type of service you're talking about with the valve service or whatever. It's nowhere in my owners manual. Also the manufacturer and the owner's manual calls for having the oil changed every 10,000 MI under normal service conditions. And the spark plugs need to be changed at 100,000 miles. I feel something else is going on here that's causing this problem with your vehicle. You shouldn't have to be cleaning the valves at 60,000 miles on this type and year of Ford
Carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves is an industry-wide issue with all GDI engines (with the exception of some newer GDI engines with hybrid port-injection systems). In non GDI designs, the fuel is injected into the intake port or throttle body, so you have a constant flow of fuel washing the back of the intake valves as the air-fuel mixture is drawn into the cylinders. Carbon buildup comes from the PCV system, which ventilates crankcase vapors and routes it into the intake system to be burned by the engine. The vapors contain oil, and combustion byproducts and when they come into contact with the rear of a hot intake valve, it begins to form a carbon deposit that builds up over time. As I mentioned before, in nonGDI engines, there is a fuel-air vapor constantly washing the back of the valve, preventing buildup from occurring. In a GDI engine such as the Ecoboost engines, the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, bypassing the intake valves, so those PCV vapor crud deposits never get a chance to be removed, because they never come into contact with any fuel. There are a lot of variables that can determine if and when this buildup becomes a problem that you begin to notice as altered performance. The amount of blow-by a particular engine has, the kind and quality of engine oil you use, the interval between oil changes, the kind of driving you do, and the number of miles on the engine. Not everyone will see noticeable driving issues even at the number of miles you have accrued. But, if you have a standard GDI engine, rest assured there is carbon buildup on the rear of your intake valves that wouldnt otherwise be there if it wasnt a GDI engine. When it gets really bad, the deposits can actually interfere with valve seating, and if a big chunk breaks off, and goes thru and hits a spinning turbo blade on the way out of the engine, it could kill the turbocharger. Whether Ford bothered to mention it is irrelevant. It is a widely recognized issue with these types of engines regardless of brand.
Jay explained it very well
Just do an Itallian tune up.
J P i happen to be Italian and that only works on my mustang.
Also, it must be hard on the head gaskets considering the crapy head designs of these engines.
Ross in Ontario yes ford replaced the engine 2x basically the head then the long block in this escape; which we still have. After the head gasket the carbon issue really is kind of a nuisance more than a big problem. After the updated gasket it has not had many issues other than the passenger side likes to eat up the ball joint, “90k replace it”, and i suggest only a ford unit to replace it. FYI it only comes with the whole control arm, unbolt the sway bar makes it a breeze to replace.
You spray anything on the valve you better hope they are closed or you be paying for a new motor
You realize you are commenting on a video over 4 years old? I am also a certified industrial mechanic with the degree. Know more about hydraulics than any average mechanic, and the effect of liquids in a confined space. You defiantly did not see me blow out the excess fluid, with the air wand, and i have not watched my own video in like 2 years now, to address all those with armchair opinions. The carbon is not the issue with this crap engine, it is the head gasket, and the crap transmission.. good luck with the 3000k trans going out, and 6k head gasket repair worrying about my carbon cleaning video….
cut your fingers off??? what!
yea you need to unplug the the electric throttle bodies before you do any work with them. there is a danger got it from my brother a GM tech, a few people have gotten a little rude about it but you can ask a tech. it has a ice breaking function and if the throttle body does a self check and your fingers are in there between the the butterfly. there is a possibility for injury.
@@scrappyitalian almost sounds unbelievable, however I didn't doubt what you said, thanks for the heads up, I tend to like to fool around diy on my vehicles and have been getting better at disconnecting the battery when I work on my trucks and only do so because I watch different videos on RUclips I do have a ecoboost engine and I'm sure I'll tinker with the throttle body someday that's how I came across your video; great by the way and I subscribed
@@rogeliovmartinez yea i thought this was like a blinker fluid joke but it isn’t. It is like how the coil on plugs the LS engines have lethal voltage, they even come with warnings now.
@@rogeliovmartinez and Thankyou so much for the sub! Its so hard now to get any subs; little channels like mine are kind of giving up because there is no revenue until you get 1000. So Thankyou again!