Tamiya US Enterprise CVN65 Scale 1/350 part 2

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  • Опубликовано: 29 янв 2024
  • In part 2 I begin the build
  • ХоббиХобби

Комментарии • 19

  • @neilhughes9310
    @neilhughes9310 6 месяцев назад +1

    Hi Gavin - I am enjoying this build so far, as I do all your builds (even the Star Wars!).
    You build a lot of models and add superb lighting to some. I imagine you do this for the pleasure the hobby can bring - and you have explained many times why you choose to make YT videos, so good on yer. You seem comfortable with your techniques and style. You also build a wide variety of subjects. You admit the mistakes you make, which is honourable.
    Even I don't agree with how you do everything, but each to their own and if you're happy, then keep on keepin' on.
    👍👍👍

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  6 месяцев назад

      Hi Neil, I think it’s important to show your mistakes and screw-ups, It can show anyone new to the hobby that they will happen and it’s not the end of the world when it does. Thank you for your support, I know my channel isn’t large by any standards but it still is amazing to me that it has this many subscribers. What I’m mainly getting from your comment is that you want me to build more Star Wars🤣. Cheers Gavin

    • @neilhughes9310
      @neilhughes9310 6 месяцев назад +1

      May the force be with you 🙂@@ReckshawScaleModels

  • @stevenwheaton874
    @stevenwheaton874 6 месяцев назад +1

    Nice work, Gavin. The ship definitely looks like she's going to be huge. See you next time.

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  6 месяцев назад

      Hi Steven, it’s one of the largest ships I’ve built so far, although HMS Hood is still the biggest. Thanks for the support, Gavin.

  • @frankiedaymodels8529
    @frankiedaymodels8529 6 месяцев назад +2

    Wonderful Video Glen A Great Kit to Say The Least. Caution Glen This Kit Is Very Addicting It Calls For More then what comes In the kit A Suck you Into More Money Kit, I bought mine In 1982 When It Was first Released to the world. At the time Of Its Release There Was No Such Thing Of PE. and After Market Parts It Was Expected What Was In the Kit Is It To Spruce It up Back Then A lot Of Scratch Building and A Good Paint job Filled the Bill I Knew A Guy bought 10 Of Them He Had money. Just for the Airgroup A Great Kit you Will Have Fun On This She Is Huge A Meter In Length I Know you Will Makle A Great Gem Out Of Her Have fun Glen you Will enjoy This kit Just To Let You Know what you Will Be Involved In the Kit Carry On buddy Frankie Day

    • @neilhughes9310
      @neilhughes9310 6 месяцев назад +1

      Who is Glen?

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  6 месяцев назад +1

      Hi Frankie, I know what you mean with the add-ons, you can easily get carried away. I used to buy lots of PE for my builds, mainly for aircraft cockpits. I noticed however, and this could just be with me that my painting skills started to suffer. Nowadays I prefer to build straight out of the box and like you said if I want anything extra I'll scratch-build it. Thanks for your insights and for watching. Oh (whisper: It's Gavin 😀)

    • @Andy.Gledhill.Models.
      @Andy.Gledhill.Models. 6 месяцев назад +1

      I bought mine around that time too, and I have never had the money and courage to build it lol. I was looking at both Eduard Big Ed sets for it. But to get both would cost nearly £120 lol.

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  5 месяцев назад +2

      @@Andy.Gledhill.Models. yeah more often than not the price can creep up to ore than the kit cost.

  • @Andy.Gledhill.Models.
    @Andy.Gledhill.Models. 6 месяцев назад +1

    Hi mate. I am relatively new to your channel. I can offer some advice if you don't mind.
    Filling. Have you heard of Mr Surfacer? Its basically a thick paint. Comes in various thickness's and colours. from 500, to 1000, and 1500. The Grey 1000 is probably the most useful. You paint it along your join lines, and let it dry. Once dry, it can be sanded like normal filler. Or it can be removed with a cotton bud dipped in Mr Hobby MR Color Levelling Thinner. You can rub the joint with the cotton bud. It will remove the Mr Surfacer from the joint, but leave the stuff behind in the joint. It may need another coat though. I find using this stuff, much easier than using plastic putty and less messy. It depends on the size of the gap to be filled. It can also be used to create a rough surface for rust effects. EG on an exhaust on a tank. Paint the Mr surfacer onto the exhaust part. Let it dry for 15 minutes. Then stipple the surface with a stiff brush. This will leave the surface in a pitted scratched state. You then just paint over it with rust coloured paints.
    Painting large surfaces. Can I assume that you don't have an airbrush? On a ship model of this size, you can get away with using spray can paint. I did the Tamiya HMS Prince of Wales a couple of years ago. I used a product called Hycote spray primer. You can get it from Amazon in the UK. Costs between £5 and £8 a can depending on the colour. Just use it in a well ventilated room and preferably wear a mask, as it stinks a bit. Spray with light coats from about 12 inch away. I got the Red and Grey colours. The Red Hycote Primer can is a really close match to the standard Hull Red painted on the bottom of ships. Although it looks bright red on the Amazon page. They may have changed the colour since the last time I bought a can. There are other manufacturers that may have a closer colour. The Grey one is not too bad a colour to use as the main hull colour. However I used a Tamiya XF colour for my ship through an airbrush. Using a spray can paint should give you a better result, than brush painting such a large surface.
    Masking. I find the Tamiya 10mm masking tape to be the best stuff to use on something this size. I also found it easier to put it down in short strips, instead of trying to put down a long length. As long as you press it down firmly, it should be OK. I agree with you that it's better to not paint a Black line first, then mask. A good idea would be to mask the upper line first. Then spray the Hull Red bottom all the way up to your mask. Wait for it to dry. Then mask the bottom line, and paint the Black. Once dry, move the masking tape to paint the upper Grey hull part.
    Anyway, feel free to look me up on Facebook, if you fancy a real chat. I am also on Scalemates. Just search Andrew Gledhill or Smegger213 lol. Looking forward to watching the rest of the build mate. I might have to finally start my BIG E lol. Good luck with yours.

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  6 месяцев назад +1

      Hi Andy, You’re more than welcome to offer advice, and thank you for doing so.
      I have some Mr Surfacer and although it’s a good product I hardly use it, in fact I think I’ve only used it once for some reason. I do like Plastic Putty although it can shrink and multiple applications may be required. I also use Sprue-glue as my main go to for filler, I’ve ran out of it and keep on meaning to make up a new batch. I always remember after I’ve primed the sprue and by then it’s too late. With the Sprue-glue I can do what you have suggested with the rough surface effect easily enough and have done in the past. The drawback is that it can be harder to work with.
      I use Halfords Primer most of the time, it comes in a range of colours now but the black, grey, red and white are the ones Ill normally use. This may surprise you but I do actually have an Airbrush I just don’t like using them. I will use it very occasionally, the last time was on a War Of The Worlds Trip pod (new version) fighting machine I was asked to build. I prefer a hairy stick and over the years have developed techniques from dry brushing to adding weathering and depth just by changing the pressure on the brush to name a couple of methods.
      Your method of painting the hull and masking is something I normally do, although I do use 6mm Tamiya tape as a rule. If I need to trim the tape I'll use an INFINI Eaycuttting jig but I do prefer to use one long length of tape when making the waterline for a hull, any other time I'll use shorter pieces of tape.
      I’m always amazed that we use different techniques to try and achieve the same results in the hobby and how they work for each other. The willingness of others to pass on their knowledge is a very warming attribute and does the hobby credit. Thank you so much for your tips and suggestions and good luck with your own build.

    • @Andy.Gledhill.Models.
      @Andy.Gledhill.Models. 6 месяцев назад +1

      @@ReckshawScaleModels Thanks mate. We can all learn from fellow modellers. I am 62 years young now. I modelled when I was a kid. Joined the RAF in 1978 at age 16. Did do some modelling in the RAF, but I was limited with what I could do. I was in on base accommodation the whole time. So didn't have much room. I must have stopped modelling in the early 1990's. Came out of the RAF in 2001. I got married in 2011. All my modelling gear and a few kits were sitting in the loft gathering dust. Then during lock down in 2020, I was furloughed a couple of times. That prompted me to start up the modelling again. Since then, I have learnt so much. Bought a pair of decent airbrushes and a good compressor. Bought loads of kits lol. I learned so much from RUclips channels like yours. Never knew Scalemates existed. Now I am always looking on there to see what new kits are coming. Only completed 2 kits last year. Lost my mojo a bit. I did the Hobbyboss 1/48 Super Hornet E kit. Pretty crap kit that required lots of filling at the back. Then I did my best build to date. The 1/16 Das Werk Stug IIIg. I added a custom made engine deck stowage rack with a load of stuff from a Value Gear stowage items set. Plus a Classy Hobby Commander Figure. Although I am crap at figure painting lol. Anyway, good luck with the Big E. I must get round to doing another ship kit. Got 4 x 1/350 ones to choose from. Eduard Arizona, Tamiya Enterprise, Yamato premium and Missouri 1991. Got PE for the Yamato and Missouri. The Eduard Arizona comes with PE and resin parts. Cheers bud. Andy G.

  • @davidharrington1133
    @davidharrington1133 5 месяцев назад +1

    Why paint with a brush rather than spray with air brush?

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  5 месяцев назад

      Hi David thanjs for the question. Two main reasons, I enjoy using a conventional brush over an airbrush. I also dislike the amount of time between colour changes and cleaning. By the time I've changed a colour and cleaned down I can paint so much more.

    • @davidharrington1133
      @davidharrington1133 5 месяцев назад +1

      Fair enough, you seem to get a good finish with the brush and I completely understand the dance you need to do when changing colours

  • @allandaniell7055
    @allandaniell7055 6 месяцев назад +1

    What’s with the lighting.
    I can’t see any model details.
    Is that bright day light from one side ?
    Very blurry.
    Sorry mate I was interested in the subject and just found you.
    Please improve your lighting.

    • @Andy.Gledhill.Models.
      @Andy.Gledhill.Models. 6 месяцев назад

      No problem with the lighting for me. I see the modelling just fine.

    • @ReckshawScaleModels
      @ReckshawScaleModels  6 месяцев назад

      Hi Allan, Thanks for the heads up. My bench is next to the patio doors which let in a lot of light, I didn’t put on my overhead lights thinking there was enough light. I’ll see what I can do to improve on it. I wasn’t aware the video was blurry I'll look into that but that may be down to the camera I use. Regardless thanks for taking the time to watch the video