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@@dimitrismaras7619 hi, it took around 65 To 70 hours in the coarse or two weeks. This was a quick build for me since I'm a fast builder but I would expect it would probably take around a month or so to complete. The longest part of the build was the lifeboats, they are a lot of them and with the orange colour it can take time to paint. Thanks for the great question and watching.

Hi John, I am more than happy to receive helpful feedback and constructive criticism on my builds. I can't remember my thinking around the colour of the rigging and why I left it looking like Jute. Normally as a rule I will change it either by painting, for that I'll use Revell Aqua colour 06 Tar Black or 09 Anthracite. More often or not I'll use a black cord, I have several thickness in my stores for this. I've found that it helps to run the cord/ thread through some beeswax if it's prone to go fuzzy. You are probably wondering why I didn't do this, and I'm thinking that myself. I'll have to go back and watch the videos and see what my thinking process was at the time. I love the thought that you have gone around these historic ships for research. I've been to HMS Victory a couple of times but have not been to the Cutty Sark, well I suppose my old local pub with he same name doesn't count. I come form Dundee and the city is famous for its Jute production, I think back in the day it was responsible for around 90% of all Jute manufacturing. Generations of my family worked on the Jute factories, my father was the last in our line to do so. Sadly the industry has gone from Dundee now but there is an fantastic Jute Museum, if you ever get the chance I would highly recommend it. RSS Discovery, captain Scott's ship and HMS Unicorn one of the oldest ships of her kind still afloat are there also. Although HMS Unicorn hasn't got any masts since she was put in a state of ordinary as soon as she was completed. Sorry this is turning out to be an tourist advert for my home city. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to leave your helpful comments, it's very much appreciated. Gavin.

hi Robert I only tend to do a basic light set up in my builds now a days, I've got a stack of chips and boards that haven't seen the light of days for a fews years now. One of the reason for this is to show that these kit can be lit up with little or no experience and relatively cheaply. Buying the LED's strip lights, diodes wire etc in bulk helps with this. Of course that's only if the builder intends to place lights on a regular basis. Like any hobby I suppose the start up can be a bit eye watering when from the amount of products out there. That's also one of the reason I try to show using every days objects that a person may have lying around in to the build. The Revell original Enterprise is a good kit to start off with, you can the original kit or the updated version with the light kit included. I think the next size up is the polar lights 1/350 kit. I've got one in my stash but haven't built it yet. It is a rather large model once it's built so space is an issue for me. The Enterprise A from AMT is 1/537 can is a large kit but can be a pain to build but it's still a good option if you are looking for a larger kit to build for next time. I sincerely wish you all the best on your build and an enjoyable experience. Once its built and you have passed it on I'm sure that will be worth the effort. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment. I hope my videos can help in some small way.

@ReckshawScaleModels I had a "vision" of how to create the bussard effect by adapting a cheap ebay circuit, experimented, and decided it would be quite effective. But if I was going to do that, I'd have to light the whole ship. The Revell kit seemed to be the only one with the windows already cut out and "glazed" so that's the one I went for.

@@neilhughes9310 oh the Year Of Hell, I do love that story arc. That battle damage was something else. I may consider to build it with one other two I have in my stash. I did a battle damaged Enterprise C once., athough that was more by necessity. I use an rattle can on it and it melted the plastic. However it was on the side of the secondary hull and looked just like a phaser burn🤣.

hi Neil, I can understand what your saying about the fit quality of these figures, typically the arm and shoulder joints. I haven't done many figures, well apart from the 1/76 & 1/72 military ones. My main issue with those are the soft plastic that some Airfix figures use. I once started the Waterloo diorama from Airfix and stopped because of that. It's sitting on the mist get back to pile now. After that I decided to get a Waterloo highlander bust, the paint wasn't the best. I think that's why I really liked the Bandi figures and the repainted face. The only 3D ones I've used are the D&D miniatures and they can be very forgiving in the painting due to the subject matter.

@@ReckshawScaleModels There used to be (may still be) a large Waterloo diorama in Dover Castle. Hundreds, if not thousands of inch high soldiers all painted and in place. It was amazing. Some years ago it was damaged and the Castle bought up every available Airfix Waterloo set (they might have been the only ones then available) from Airfix stocks and were able to recreate the diorama. Imagine the poor sods who had to sit and paint all those figures, which as you say, were never the easiest. I do some 30mm D&D figures, but as I don't play D&D they are all done out of context and are indeed forgiving.

@@monkey555500 thanks I do prefer that camouflage scheme than to the plain white.

Thanks Alan, I did end up placing this into a Diorama along with three others. The idea was to do four separate dioramas that then linked into each other to create one large one. Feel free to have a look by clicking the link ruclips.net/video/wAgHBoktZM0/видео.htmlsi=UV2vrTjvUDkEZv1c

hi Steven, I normally use two types. The first one is just a normal mechanical on you can buy at office supplies stores. These usually have a thin core and can easily get in easily between the panels. The draw back is that they don't have a high graphite level and may need a couple of passes. On occasions I'll use a 2B or 3B pencil. The graphite is a lot softer and will go down nicely. However if you use a softer pencil the graphite will run a lot more when you apply the varnish. I'm a huge fan of that effect but it takes a lot of trail and error to get used to. If you are worried about the amount of graphite running you can use a spray varnish/ lacquer. As long as the part is on a flat surface and you done use too much of the spray then it won't run. The biggest advice I can give is to buy the cheapest kit you can find, it doesn't matter what the subject matter is and use that as a practice piece. Thank you so much for watching and if I can help in anyway I will try my best to do so.

hi Neil l think your right with the aerials, that would have been a better way to approach them. I hate giving up on kits and I almost reach that point with this one. I think I would attempt it again though. Over the years I've done a few harriers and could never get them right, but a couple of years a go I did the sea harrier (1/72) by Airfix and that went really well. I don't have their 110 but I'll look into it.

@goforitpainting thank you

hi Tim thanks for the kind comments. Most of my videos are all about the basic bare bones and techniques process of the build. Tou can do a lot with this kit, for example add a interior deck. That is something I do mention in a later video but I dont go as far as placing one in. It is something I actually regretted not doing on this build. However you decide to approach the build I think you are going to have a great time with the kit. It has great detail which can be achieve without to much experience.

@goforitpainting thank you

Hi Daniel, its a great little kit. I built this of a diorama also. The idea was to build a four separate dioramas that could be displayed on its own or linked up to another three, each on is A4 size. I prefer not to airbrush, it's just my personal choice but like you I do most of my painting on the spru as a general rule with the touch ups later on. Sometimes I will build then paint though. Thank so much for watching and taking the time to comment.

@ReckshawScaleModels I use a spray can that woukd look nice the dioramas

Hi Neil, there isn't much detail on the kit, its very basic. I do love those Airfix kits with the new shadow stands, they are the sort of kits anyone can sink their teeth in to. This build was a day project that turned onto a two day project, u think it took longer to edit the videos. Next up I'm doing an Bf110, my favourite WWII aircraft. However I made a complete mess of it. Ive not long completed it and promptly chucked it in the bin. The wife rescued it though so I've done the videos and they'll be up after the p51 for better or worse.

@@neilhughes9310 yeah I think it is the lighting. I did alter the skin tone slightly with some weathering and that was all done with a matt finish. I just looked back on the video and it does a have a shine to to it. I wonder if it's the video editing software that's changed it. I'll have to look into it. A great a shout Neil thanks for letting me know.

@@paulgertsch7105 thanks

thanks Steven, I'm really enjoying these figures.

Hi, andysanger7723. I normally use Winsor & Newton Galeria Matt/ Gloss or Pledge Clear floor varnish. You can also use PVA glue. Most varnish will work, but try to stick to an acrylic one if using those types of paints. The same goes for enamel.

@@stevenwheaton874 it looks like they will be a fun build.

yeah Neil I'm very impressed wotht he kit.

Looks like a great kit. There are a lot more instructions than I expected.

It was a bit of a surprise to me also, I think they will have full movement like an action figure.

@@the-primered-thumb it's my first time building these Bandi figures. Hope it goes well😁

@ReckshawScaleModels they are fun,,off the sprue,made 😉👍

Thanks Steve, the build was a lot bigger than I thought it would be 😂

@@ekspatriat hi thanks for the comment. The wheels are fully adjustable and do tend to move a bit while handling the model. Sometimes the tyres can pop off as well since I haven't cement them. That could be the reason why they may look out of alignment. Either way thanks for pointing it out to me, I'll look into it further although the build is finished now and there won't much ill be able to do at this stage. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment.

Thanks so much

Hi Steven. There so much to this kits it's a bit insane. In reality it's two kits one one I think. Each vedio is edited down from around 4 to 5 hours run time. Mind you sometimes I forget to press pause when I'm recording so that nah account for that😂. Thanks for the like it's much appreciated.

Thanks Steven

thanks steven, its some kit

Thanks steven much appreciated

Hi Steven. This kit definitely tested my skills which I really enjoyed. But I'm still not a fan of photo etch and this kit seemed to have a whole factory dedicated to it😂. Even though I don't like using photo etch I can appreciate those who do and the level of detail this kit gives you. I was thinking about building the Titanic but I think the two kits I have may also have lots of photo etch and I need a brake from that for a while. So my next build will be something simple and I'll probably look at doing another ship of some kind after that.

@@stevenwheaton874 thanks Steven

Hi Steven, Normally I cut them all out and leave them on a mat in numerical order. I'll place them on normally with water but I'll only use micro sol/ set for the larger ones or if the surface is uneven. I then use a cocktail stick to guide them on the surface and a paper towel to blot out the excess water to stop them from floating away. However, I decided not to put any of the main decals on this build. there aren't that many I think they would get lost in the paint scheme I've chosen.

@ReckshawScaleModels which works better, micro sol or micro set? Or does it depend on the circumstances.

@@stevenwheaton874 micro sold will soften the decal and Set draws the decal in to the conform to the surface. So if the surface is uneven use sol on the area and then set on top on the decal. If the surface is flat then sol is all you need. They will leave the decals very soft and can easily brake once it takes effect so a lot of re- movement could be a problem.

@@georgeli4989 yeah they are the same. I think the ballance issue maybe down to the location pins. I found it difficult to push the wheels on and ended up opening the hole on the wheel for a better fit

@@ReckshawScaleModels much thanks.

Wow thanks so much Neil. Those ant kits are perfect for beginners I think. OK sometimes they do need a bit of filler but they can be very forgiving also. The modular construction helps the a person new to the hobby get to grips with how the instructions are set out and allows the builder an easy plan for the build. Of course you can still get into a sticky mess but who doesn't when they start out. My first build was airfixs hms Belfast (1/600 I think) and I use an entire tube of cement on it but still as a boy it got me hooked. The Humbrol paints are perfectly fin for the job they are meant to do. I think a lot of people have a problem with them because they can become grainy. That only happens with you let your brush dry out. The older pot do have a problem though. They suffered for a bad seals and there was a chance a new put could have dried up, but that's a container problem not the paint itself. The organge can be challenging to use, more so than the yellow. The keys is thin coats coats with a damp brush. It will need a few coats and won't look to great to start with. It does build up to a great colour tone though. It's also important to brush in the same direction for each coat, otherwise you can end up with a grid effect almost like a canvas texture. Anyway good luck with the build I bet it's going to look great.

@@johnvedsegaard6505 I've never tested it, I built as a static model. Although inside the hull the kit does give you the option of fitting a motor.

@@stevenwheaton874 yeah the whole kit is made up of tiny parts. 🤣 The mistakes I've made are only minor luckily, mostly due to dropping concentration.

Hi Steven, the kit is very detailed and technical. I've just finished constructing the trailer wheels and that took the better part of three days. The only thing the kit doesn't get you to build is the rubber tyres.

@@AirwolfCrazy hi, I am just using the Bas that is supplied with the kit for now, although that base is not very good to say the least. The plan is to make a large display to show off all my Enterprise builds together. St the moment the NX through to the F are all the kits bases. I'm trying to decide if I should include the aircraft carrier, Shuttle and Frigate on that display. I've still got the Frigate to build before I make my final decision. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

@@philippausberlin hi, to be honest I can't remember my thinking at the time. It was probably because I preferred the different contrast. I will do that from time to time especially if I don't have the correct colour. Add in the fact that I hate mixing paint I'll come up alternatives schemes. I understand a lot of people don't like that approach but thats one of the great things about this hobby, the different interpretation of the same build. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for your question.

@@AAAZZZ-f3i 😁

@@kalinystazvoruna8702 yeah the tartan is based on the one designed for the RRS Discovery which Captain Robert Falcon Scott sailed on his frist expedition to the Antarctic. The ship was built in my home city of Dundee and is now docked their as an museum ship.

@@ReckshawScaleModels Wonderful!! Thanks for the history lesson. I didn't know that. Need to do some research on it.

@@seanwoods647 great idea. That's one of the reason I love this hobby. We all manged to get around problems by thinking outside the box. For myself I like to find a solution evolves everyday obejects whenever I can. My next build is a hobby boss kit truck and trailer. The kit is very detailed but I'm about halfway through the build at the moment but I've only just managed to find the time to edit the video so the first part will be up in a day or so.

@@seanwoods647 got to love a bit of spaceballs.

@@qdllc brilliant

@@Terminus_El_Camino thanks for the kind comments.

@@LydiaS-nhdh white pva glue will also work. Thanks for watching.

@@ReckshawScaleModels thank you kindly. 😁

@@JamesWright-g5o that is very true, however this isn't the Enterprise.

@@stevenwheaton874 thanks Steven, the next build will be up I. A couple of days. I a out halfway through the build at the moment.

@@Absaalookemensch thanks so much