LINK To DP200 Welder yeswelder-1.kckb.me/c6f8cad5 $25 Aluminum MIG Conversion ruclips.net/video/FGhSo82MP9U/видео.html MORE WELDING AND FABRICATION VIDEOS HERE:ruclips.net/p/PLfbf78fMz9Vol0uX2-GNc6mLi75zpqb5f LEARN HOW TO WELD VIDEOS HERE:ruclips.net/video/ADa1I319GJ0/видео.html AWESOME TOOL BUILDS! ruclips.net/p/PLfbf78fMz9Vo2Cv3V5fmYlDZGpS8Hp98l
So apparently no one on this thread has welded much aluminum MIG. Remove the oxide layer! You now have 5 mins to weld the joint! 22.5-25.5 volts Spools guns suck, but speed 4-6 on the miller spool gun should suffice Gas flow at 20-30 cfm Electrode stickout is further than you' expect, aluminum wire is like self shield fluxcore, it requires stickout to preheat. 5/8"-3/4" Push the weld at 5-20 degrees forehand, favor the thicker member. Step the weld progression 1/2" forward and 1/4" back. The weld ripples should hemispherical, if they have a "V" shape you're likely a little hot. This is not steel mig, step only, no weird weave patterns. Preheat helps on anything thicker than 1/4" or if your machine is pretty weak. 4043 is silicon based, good for cyclic and dynamic loading, 5356 is magnesium based, better for high tensile. Thank you for your time
@@BrandonLundGood point. I was taught by a “garage welder.” Some of the stuff we did was for dump bodies on big trucks. I had actually done a bit of research when we repaired a trailer, and we had a successful outcome. With my brainiac “skills,” we wound up putting together some things to prevent a future failure. The one thing I learned was that you have to do a bit of research to come up with a workable plan when you don’t know the half of what you are doing. Finding out that aluminum welds take 45% of the tensile strength out of extruded aluminum was quite literally half the battle! If in doubt, LOOK IT UP!
I’ve found that with over 1/4” aluminum, a little preheat to 350-400 never hurts. But a 250 amp tig with some helium is the ideal solution. I’ve spent too much time with a spool gun in my hand. I hate those damn things.
With aluminum pulse use a circular motion. If going right to left go clockwise. Cut into your bottom plate with a slight push. Roll onto your top plate return to your start and pause. Then advance with your next bead. Really it is more of an oval pattern. It'll give you beautiful stacked dimes. I've done it with miller wire feed heads on pulse machines and multimatics with spoolguns. You'll thank me later it produces an amazing bead.
That’s the problem with using 4043 wire. Too soft. Makes pretty surface welds but lacks deep penetration. A 5356 wire will give that deep burn tie-in, but doesn’t look pretty. You can use helium to go even deeper. And yea, that Blue Demon is good stuff.
Bottom piece could use some preheat due to the larger area the weld is being applied to and the thickness difference from the angle piece to the flat piece. Generally 3/8” aluminum is going to be in the 20 to 24 volt range for proper fusion with mig, Tig general rule is 1 amp for every .001” thick of aluminum you are trying to fuse. Those are for room temp materials. You can weld with considerably less by preheating materials according to thickness.
For aluminum mig, you have to use a machine capable of pulse. Also use spray transfer to prevent cold weld. If you use short circuit transfer, the weld will fall apart like shown in the video.
This part was factory welded in spray transfer. Pulse actually helps to prevent distortion and overheating. It's not mandatory, but it's nice to have especially on thin parts like this. People get too worked up over voltage. There is no set X amount equals spray. That comes down to wire size, wire feed speed and technique. Clearly, there is more to a good weld than just voltage or appearance, or I wouldn't have ended up with it in my shop. It's been proven that the same settings in the hands of 2 different people can result in drastic differences. Angle, stick out, manipulation, travel speed and how and where you deposit your filler all play a role in the end result and how your applying your heat input, so yes, although far from ideal, you can achieve a sucessful weld in short circuit if you know what your doing and the part isn't structural. There is so much technical information on this subject. Way more than I could cover here.
Mig welding aluminum isn't something new, but it seems like things are different now . I used to work at a drink truck company . Our welds looks a lot better and seems to weld easier . Is there a change in wire or shielded gas .
You were probably running a transformer style welder at 60hz. This is a budget inverter style welder. I personally prefer the weld profile of a transformer machine (because it's what im most comfortable with and learned on) but my back appreciates the light weight inverter style and im still perfecting my skill on this machine and messing with frequencies. Sometimes having less features is more but once perfected, the inverter style machines are very capable.
It took me 6 weeks of practicing before I got the hang of using a aluminum welder like that. And still have to mess around before getting back to the real job at hand
I just picked up the newest double pulse yeswelder, and I'm hoping to make that my primary aluminum mig welder for mobile work. So far, I'm very happy with the weld quality on steel (both mig and stick), but I haven't tried it on aluminum yet. I have a couple of Fronius machines, but I really don't like taking them on mobile jobs, so I'm hoping the DP200 will fill that need.
I’ve had better results pulling aluminum like one would do with flux core. Piece that small I’d consider putting it in a box, glass cake pan or whatever has a sealed low spot and put the argon in there. I might have missed the size the piece was getting welded to, but pulling like flux and electrode negative for the extra heat like flux core works for me with 5654
Nice! 👍I do a fair amount of mobile work. This basic setup works really well for the work I do, and it lets me work quick...using one hand to hold the part and another to blast a quick tack. My TIG setup isn't overly great, but I have a nicer setup on the way for shop work 👍
I would be concerned with contamination within the original filler. Best to get all the first failures out of there and then if it fails again there is only one person to blame
@@BrandonLund Contamination should only be in weld itself not work Sos be minimal and would float to top as skin I'd be 2 handed and run mig aswell or arc add extra rod if needed I don't follow normal wisdoms and conventional logic since I'm exceptionally savont savvy savant People forget metal is just metal and u can use alsorts of other wisdoms from other areas I'd start using aluminum soda cans as rods since it's cheap rubbish 🗑 and can esay make rods out of it haha 😄 😆 😜
@weazeldark3983 I chose to bring back everything to virgin material and clean it fresh. Whenever I take a shortcut, such as leaving a weld and welding over it, it always comes back to bite me and costs twice as much to redo. Don't overthink it too much bud. The end result is to provide the customer a service they paid for without it returning from failure.
No you don't. This just proves that a pretty stack of dimes weld means nothing whereas it failed and was brought to me. It failed because it wasn't cleaned properly. This isn't a structural part, and even if it was, 4043 is plenty adequate for fresh water dock repairs. Its likely T6 6061. Clean your parts thoroughly and preheat on thicker weldments. No need to add unnecessary steps.
It's all about giving the customer what they ask for and are willing to pay for with the goal of it not returning because of failure. I succeeded in that mission. I've never heard anyone use the term isophase
Its not down to wire its the plate thickness difference, for this you turn the heat up for the bigger plate then tie in on the sides for the thinner piece
@@BrandonLund or he used pure argon too, theres too many variables with welding but the angle looka around 5mm and the plate is 8~10 apparently a helium argon mix allows a hotter arc, like using c02 when mig vs argon c02 allows a better fusion
People don’t understand that small jobs like this can’t pay for the equipment. A customer thinks he’s getting ripped off if you charge a reasonable rate for your time and tools.
Not always. On thin material you can't always get into spray transfer or you will blow your material apart. Sometimes you have to weld aluminum below that threshold which means your in short circuit. I probably should have laid down a nice stack of dimes like the pretty cold fusion joint I received, but I was looking for good tie in rather than something asthetic that gets returned due to failure.
Im POSITIVE the first guy at the factory welding it didn't have a gun to his head with his bosd telling him that he isn't allowed to change the settings or clean the material...unless your the guy that actually welded it...it failed because it wasn't cleaned properly, or most likely, NOT AT ALL
@@BrandonLund I'm more inclined to believe a Karen boss took out his bad day on a poor worker. Just knowing human nature and how much is humans love being Karen's and all. A little power goes a long way with some very little people
👍 it's a hard rock designed specifically for grinding aluminum. They are pricy, but worth it. They work nice for heavy removal when compared to a flapper
It looks like to me the welder had the arc focused on the angle and was just melting it over the flat plate, manipulating it i to a pefect puddle but didnt focus the arc in the root of the fillet weld to get proper pe etration. Prety much wrong travel angle and technique. Repair weld is way cold, you should be aprox 23.5v & 340wfs &³/64" wire. That thin wire has too fast of a wfs and can cause a venturi and mix atmosphere with the sheilding.
la réparation est aussi mauvaise que les soudures faites avant. Vous manquez énormément de puissance. Un petit MIG synergique montant même à 200 A si vous faites un réglage par l'épaisseur vous verrez que même en acier en max il vous proposera pas plus de 5 mm d'épaisseur. On peut aller au delà en mode manuel, mais disons que le max est alors de 7 mm.Et ce n'est pas par hasard que les gros poste pro montent à 350A et même plus. Et tout ça est encore bien pire avec l'alu car c'est un métal qui absorbe énormément la chaleur. Donc à épaisseur égale il faut mettre beaucoup plus sur de l'alu. Là vous auriez pu vous en sortir avec le poste à fond et un costaud préchauffage.
In your experience…. On the prison yard? I think with each face tattoo your IQ dropped 10 points. He literally said, and DID, push the weld puddle. 🤦🏻♂️
That not a good weld first i would not grind it with a hard wheel i would use a flapper that is used for grinding aluminumthen use my stainless steel brush then proceed to use alumaclean on it finally acetone clean clamp it put a little heat then weld it i would never take work to this guy garage welder as to us cert.welders craftsman
LINK To DP200 Welder yeswelder-1.kckb.me/c6f8cad5
$25 Aluminum MIG Conversion ruclips.net/video/FGhSo82MP9U/видео.html
MORE WELDING AND FABRICATION VIDEOS HERE:ruclips.net/p/PLfbf78fMz9Vol0uX2-GNc6mLi75zpqb5f
LEARN HOW TO WELD VIDEOS HERE:ruclips.net/video/ADa1I319GJ0/видео.html
AWESOME TOOL BUILDS! ruclips.net/p/PLfbf78fMz9Vo2Cv3V5fmYlDZGpS8Hp98l
Pretty good and that's sitting down with your leg in that brace .... Hurts just thinking about it. Glad you're recovering well 🙏
Thanks 👍
So apparently no one on this thread has welded much aluminum MIG.
Remove the oxide layer! You now have 5 mins to weld the joint!
22.5-25.5 volts
Spools guns suck, but speed 4-6 on the miller spool gun should suffice
Gas flow at 20-30 cfm
Electrode stickout is further than you' expect, aluminum wire is like self shield fluxcore, it requires stickout to preheat. 5/8"-3/4"
Push the weld at 5-20 degrees forehand, favor the thicker member.
Step the weld progression 1/2" forward and 1/4" back. The weld ripples should hemispherical, if they have a "V" shape you're likely a little hot. This is not steel mig, step only, no weird weave patterns.
Preheat helps on anything thicker than 1/4" or if your machine is pretty weak.
4043 is silicon based, good for cyclic and dynamic loading, 5356 is magnesium based, better for high tensile.
Thank you for your time
That guy is a clown hes not a real welder hes a garage welder not a true craftsman cert welder like many of us
Armando, are you a better "certified welder" than the original "certified welder" that welded it?
@@BrandonLundGood point.
I was taught by a “garage welder.”
Some of the stuff we did was for dump bodies on big trucks.
I had actually done a bit of research when we repaired a trailer, and we had a successful outcome.
With my brainiac “skills,” we wound up putting together some things to prevent a future failure.
The one thing I learned was that you have to do a bit of research to come up with a workable plan when you don’t know the half of what you are doing.
Finding out that aluminum welds take 45% of the tensile strength out of extruded aluminum was quite literally half the battle!
If in doubt, LOOK IT UP!
I’ve found that with over 1/4” aluminum, a little preheat to 350-400 never hurts. But a 250 amp tig with some helium is the ideal solution. I’ve spent too much time with a spool gun in my hand. I hate those damn things.
Spot on! 👌
With aluminum pulse use a circular motion. If going right to left go clockwise. Cut into your bottom plate with a slight push. Roll onto your top plate return to your start and pause. Then advance with your next bead. Really it is more of an oval pattern. It'll give you beautiful stacked dimes. I've done it with miller wire feed heads on pulse machines and multimatics with spoolguns. You'll thank me later it produces an amazing bead.
That’s the problem with using 4043 wire. Too soft. Makes pretty surface welds but lacks deep penetration. A 5356 wire will give that deep burn tie-in, but doesn’t look pretty. You can use helium to go even deeper. And yea, that Blue Demon is good stuff.
On 1/4 aluminum use 22.5 bolts and about 300 or 3 on the gun wire speed your weld will be so wet and penetrating I work aluminum everyday
Bottom piece could use some preheat due to the larger area the weld is being applied to and the thickness difference from the angle piece to the flat piece. Generally 3/8” aluminum is going to be in the 20 to 24 volt range for proper fusion with mig, Tig general rule is 1 amp for every .001” thick of aluminum you are trying to fuse. Those are for room temp materials. You can weld with considerably less by preheating materials according to thickness.
My goal is to provide the customer with a product they paid for without it returning from failure. Mission accomplished 👍
For aluminum mig, you have to use a machine capable of pulse. Also use spray transfer to prevent cold weld. If you use short circuit transfer, the weld will fall apart like shown in the video.
This part was factory welded in spray transfer. Pulse actually helps to prevent distortion and overheating. It's not mandatory, but it's nice to have especially on thin parts like this. People get too worked up over voltage. There is no set X amount equals spray. That comes down to wire size, wire feed speed and technique. Clearly, there is more to a good weld than just voltage or appearance, or I wouldn't have ended up with it in my shop. It's been proven that the same settings in the hands of 2 different people can result in drastic differences. Angle, stick out, manipulation, travel speed and how and where you deposit your filler all play a role in the end result and how your applying your heat input, so yes, although far from ideal, you can achieve a sucessful weld in short circuit if you know what your doing and the part isn't structural. There is so much technical information on this subject. Way more than I could cover here.
That yes welder looks like it works good.
I think so too!
A pretty weldnaint always a strong weld
💯
I weld aluminum mig alot, this is really easy to have happen when you dont pre heat
It happens even more when you don't clean your material.
Most aluminum welding must be done in the "push" direction. Mig. Tig. Gas. But stick is done "drag".
Mig welding aluminum isn't something new, but it seems like things are different now . I used to work at a drink truck company . Our welds looks a lot better and seems to weld easier . Is there a change in wire or shielded gas .
You were probably running a transformer style welder at 60hz. This is a budget inverter style welder. I personally prefer the weld profile of a transformer machine (because it's what im most comfortable with and learned on) but my back appreciates the light weight inverter style and im still perfecting my skill on this machine and messing with frequencies. Sometimes having less features is more but once perfected, the inverter style machines are very capable.
It took me 6 weeks of practicing before I got the hang of using a aluminum welder like that. And still have to mess around before getting back to the real job at hand
So a few dozen tack welds don't cut it?
A prime example of pretty aint always practical and uggly aint always so bad.😂
Man, I've been so busy with stuff I just realized RUclips don't show me your videos on my feed 😢. I'm gonna have to fix that.
Yah they like to do that from time to time for some reason
Best is Aluminum Tig Welding.
I've seen that on a lot of docks with "welded" aluminum. 🤫 I've been thinking about getting a new multiproces welder.
I just picked up the newest double pulse yeswelder, and I'm hoping to make that my primary aluminum mig welder for mobile work. So far, I'm very happy with the weld quality on steel (both mig and stick), but I haven't tried it on aluminum yet. I have a couple of Fronius machines, but I really don't like taking them on mobile jobs, so I'm hoping the DP200 will fill that need.
I pool drop for aluminum. And I always pull the pool... Or continue the pool as I pull if you prefer.
I’ve had better results pulling aluminum like one would do with flux core. Piece that small I’d consider putting it in a box, glass cake pan or whatever has a sealed low spot and put the argon in there. I might have missed the size the piece was getting welded to, but pulling like flux and electrode negative for the extra heat like flux core works for me with 5654
Always preheat aluminum before welding recommend about 430F
I'm far from an expert on welding aluminum, but it's not an "always" must do situation. I rarely heat anything under 1/4"
Only aluminum MiG weld I would ever trust would be dual shield. Never had a good weld with a spool gun.
....."I'm gonna use a spool gun"
Lol ✌️
Good for you 👍
I always preheat a weld joint sweat it out 120 degrees
Not a bad idea. Makes for crisp starts 👍
I bought a high end Tig welder just for stuff like this
Nice! 👍I do a fair amount of mobile work. This basic setup works really well for the work I do, and it lets me work quick...using one hand to hold the part and another to blast a quick tack. My TIG setup isn't overly great, but I have a nicer setup on the way for shop work 👍
I would just tig little stuff like that.
I was already setup with mig 👍
@@robertfandel9442 same but only because spool guns kill my wrist lol
In weld shop, I didn't get to use the aluminum
spool gun because it was always broke😢
Does the dock freeze?
That is often the problem. The owners leave them in too long, they freeze and break.
To be laid down but it was like a fusion
Id tig overtop the weld to make it solid
And
Just fixed this with tig pass
I would be concerned with contamination within the original filler. Best to get all the first failures out of there and then if it fails again there is only one person to blame
@@BrandonLund
Contamination should only be in weld itself not work
Sos be minimal and would float to top as skin
I'd be 2 handed and run mig aswell or arc add extra rod if needed
I don't follow normal wisdoms and conventional logic since I'm exceptionally savont savvy savant
People forget metal is just metal and u can use alsorts of other wisdoms from other areas
I'd start using aluminum soda cans as rods since it's cheap rubbish 🗑 and can esay make rods out of it haha 😄 😆 😜
@weazeldark3983 I chose to bring back everything to virgin material and clean it fresh. Whenever I take a shortcut, such as leaving a weld and welding over it, it always comes back to bite me and costs twice as much to redo. Don't overthink it too much bud. The end result is to provide the customer a service they paid for without it returning from failure.
Not enough heat you got a preheated the flat bars just too hard of aluminum. Don’t get hot enough till you get about halfway through the weld use 5356
No you don't. This just proves that a pretty stack of dimes weld means nothing whereas it failed and was brought to me. It failed because it wasn't cleaned properly. This isn't a structural part, and even if it was, 4043 is plenty adequate for fresh water dock repairs. Its likely T6 6061. Clean your parts thoroughly and preheat on thicker weldments. No need to add unnecessary steps.
The wire gun is good for isophase but i probably wouldn't have used it on that
It's all about giving the customer what they ask for and are willing to pay for with the goal of it not returning because of failure. I succeeded in that mission. I've never heard anyone use the term isophase
@@BrandonLund it's a laminated aluminum bus that is used in the electrical field. Happy customers is the goal
Interesting. Thank you 😊 👍
Prep is everything. 80% of your time one a weld should be prep. Period
I personally would have tig welded it
It was too much hassle to switch tanks and machines. I was already setup for MIG
That’s what she said
Preheat anything over 1/4.
Its not down to wire its the plate thickness difference, for this you turn the heat up for the bigger plate then tie in on the sides for the thinner piece
They got lazy and didn't clean the plates..
@@BrandonLund or he used pure argon too, theres too many variables with welding but the angle looka around 5mm and the plate is 8~10 apparently a helium argon mix allows a hotter arc, like using c02 when mig vs argon c02 allows a better fusion
Most production / fab shops use pure argon for MIG aluminum, mainly because helium is outrageously expensive.
That's what happens when you don't clean your work pieces.
Jackpot! 💯👌
People don’t understand that small jobs like this can’t pay for the equipment. A customer thinks he’s getting ripped off if you charge a reasonable rate for your time and tools.
There is a LOT of truth in this comment!
I see this too often with mig welds. Never happens when a tig or stick is used.
Clean an preheat
Not hot enough, aluminum mig is a spray arc process.
Not always. On thin material you can't always get into spray transfer or you will blow your material apart. Sometimes you have to weld aluminum below that threshold which means your in short circuit. I probably should have laid down a nice stack of dimes like the pretty cold fusion joint I received, but I was looking for good tie in rather than something asthetic that gets returned due to failure.
So you encountered problems and were able to adjust. Kinda get the impression someone else wasn't given that same opportunity
They missed the most important step. Cleaning.
@@BrandonLund that's your story. I wonder if the person who did it first would tell the same one
Im POSITIVE the first guy at the factory welding it didn't have a gun to his head with his bosd telling him that he isn't allowed to change the settings or clean the material...unless your the guy that actually welded it...it failed because it wasn't cleaned properly, or most likely, NOT AT ALL
@@BrandonLund I'm more inclined to believe a Karen boss took out his bad day on a poor worker. Just knowing human nature and how much is humans love being Karen's and all. A little power goes a long way with some very little people
That makes no sense.
Hope that wasn't an aluminum oxide grinding disc 🧐
👍 it's a hard rock designed specifically for grinding aluminum. They are pricy, but worth it. They work nice for heavy removal when compared to a flapper
Who's the dummy??? that didn't clean what they were welding??? RULE #1 always prep your work!!! Make sure it's clean 🪥 !!! 😮😮😮😮😮😮
💯👌
It looks like to me the welder had the arc focused on the angle and was just melting it over the flat plate, manipulating it i to a pefect puddle but didnt focus the arc in the root of the fillet weld to get proper pe etration. Prety much wrong travel angle and technique.
Repair weld is way cold, you should be aprox 23.5v & 340wfs &³/64" wire. That thin wire has too fast of a wfs and can cause a venturi and mix atmosphere with the sheilding.
Share with us, what was the voltage set at on the factory failed weld?
@@BrandonLund how would I know that?
Why did he have to take measurements?
He wanted to make sure that it went back in the exact same orientation as it was received.
Still cold af
Thanks for watching 👍
I thought it had to be heated to weld
I don't usually heat until 1/4" and up depending on the joint configuration.
Nice weld but to much on skill rather than understanding about fusion
In order to get proper fusion, you have to have an understanding of the basics, which is why I focus there.
Spoolgun
or drill and bolt it
Looks like they didnt clean the material, and didnt penetrate, who ever welded that first time should have cleaned, preheat and mig welded.
Still a bit cold tho
No welder ?
No welder. What you watched was your imagination
Yes welder 😅
🤣🤣🤣 🤪
la réparation est aussi mauvaise que les soudures faites avant. Vous manquez énormément de puissance. Un petit MIG synergique montant même à 200 A si vous faites un réglage par l'épaisseur vous verrez que même en acier en max il vous proposera pas plus de 5 mm d'épaisseur. On peut aller au delà en mode manuel, mais disons que le max est alors de 7 mm.Et ce n'est pas par hasard que les gros poste pro montent à 350A et même plus. Et tout ça est encore bien pire avec l'alu car c'est un métal qui absorbe énormément la chaleur. Donc à épaisseur égale il faut mettre beaucoup plus sur de l'alu. Là vous auriez pu vous en sortir avec le poste à fond et un costaud préchauffage.
The goal is to provide the customer with a service they paid for without it returning from failure. Mission accomplished. Don't overthink it bud.
Kalt svetsning
How one can weld up a whole piece and not instinctively check if its holding is beyond me
This was in service for more than a year before it failed and was brought to me to repair.
19 or 20.5 would have been better
Of course it would 🤣🤣🤣
Bruh did RUclips weld
Came apart because it wasn't clean??
Too cold. They needed more amperage
TIG it
I was already setup with MIG 👊 Time = Money 😉
There was no penetration
Not hot enough for thickness.
Not bad dude. But in my experience just try to push in general when mig welding , keeps your gas flowing out ahead of you the entire weld
Isn't that what I said and showed?...
Cant fight the urge to put your 2 cents in there huh
In your experience…. On the prison yard? I think with each face tattoo your IQ dropped 10 points. He literally said, and DID, push the weld puddle. 🤦🏻♂️
You gotta aim in the middle your to much on the top piece with your arc
🤣🤣🤣
That not a good weld first i would not grind it with a hard wheel i would use a flapper that is used for grinding aluminumthen use my stainless steel brush then proceed to use alumaclean on it finally acetone clean clamp it put a little heat then weld it i would never take work to this guy garage welder as to us cert.welders craftsman
Armando, they make hard abrasive discs specifically for aluminum. As a "certified welder" you should know this 👍
Yes just tig it. Mig aluminum is junk
TIG has its place, but MIG is hardly junk. Let's not spread misinformation.
That weld looks ugly
You liked the first weld better?
This is BS welding...I am a TIG máster welder....trust me!!!
Thanks for sharing your resume Carlos! We trust you 🙏
That's a ugly weld
Im sure you were raised better than this Tony. Don't be that guy. There is enough nastiness in this world.
@@BrandonLund you are absolutely right,,, and she did a good job,, have a good week 👍
You too brother 🙏
Looks like they didnt clean the metal.