Forget the weld proof primer, keep to clean steel. Get some 1mm steel sheet and cut some small sections off it or use an old scrap body part to set up the welder before you start welding the vehicle or any vehicle. Make sure your welding helmet lens is clean and contact tip in the torch is new. Wleding tips below if you want to see how I learnt how to do vehicle bodies years ago. Clean back using an 80grit flap wheel carefully so as not to make the test piece or vehicle section thinner. Make a good earth connection. Ideally, use 0.6mm wire but if you have 0.8mm that will do. Turn the amperage/voltage setting to its lowest setting. Turn the wire speed to No2. Turn the gas down so you can hear it leaving the gun but not hissing loudly. The above are start point settings. Pull the trigger on the torch to see how the wire feeds out onto your test piece and watch and listen to the arc. Keep doing this until you get a nice round tack, not heaped up, not elongated or odd shaped but round. You want to achieve a buzzing/sizzle sound. Any crackling adjust the wire speed only when welding thin steel sheet. With thin metal, you need to be aware of heat input and as with any welding get comfortable and do "dry runs" to make sure you are comfortable welding. Tack the piece in four places if possible. If happy with welder settings and repair patch location, go half way between tacks and tack again. When you have roughly 12 tacks in place (subject to repair patch size) then overlap tack in an alternating pattern (Like doing up a cylinder head or wheel nuts) around the patch until you have completed the continuous bead around the patch. Do not, blob sloppy slug or drag the torch. Hold it at 90degrees where possible to the pieceand one short but stead pull on the trigger for about a second. Avoid at all costs trying to run a bead on vehicles, the parent metal is too thin and you will burn through and then have to build the hole up with weld.
Hiya. I made sure it was. I'm pretty sure the shop paint on the panels isn't weld through and that is causing the problems. If I have time I will tidy up today
@@MiniorMinority Yes. Mig welders like a very clean surface and on thin metal just do a lot of spot welds and join them together allowing time to cool between them
Forget the weld proof primer, keep to clean steel. Get some 1mm steel sheet and cut some small sections off it or use an old scrap body part to set up the welder before you start welding the vehicle or any vehicle. Make sure your welding helmet lens is clean and contact tip in the torch is new. Wleding tips below if you want to see how I learnt how to do vehicle bodies years ago.
Clean back using an 80grit flap wheel carefully so as not to make the test piece or vehicle section thinner.
Make a good earth connection.
Ideally, use 0.6mm wire but if you have 0.8mm that will do.
Turn the amperage/voltage setting to its lowest setting.
Turn the wire speed to No2.
Turn the gas down so you can hear it leaving the gun but not hissing loudly.
The above are start point settings.
Pull the trigger on the torch to see how the wire feeds out onto your test piece and watch and listen to the arc.
Keep doing this until you get a nice round tack, not heaped up, not elongated or odd shaped but round.
You want to achieve a buzzing/sizzle sound. Any crackling adjust the wire speed only when welding thin steel sheet.
With thin metal, you need to be aware of heat input and as with any welding get comfortable and do "dry runs" to make sure you are comfortable welding.
Tack the piece in four places if possible.
If happy with welder settings and repair patch location, go half way between tacks and tack again.
When you have roughly 12 tacks in place (subject to repair patch size) then overlap tack in an alternating pattern (Like doing up a cylinder head or wheel nuts) around the patch until you have completed the continuous bead around the patch.
Do not, blob sloppy slug or drag the torch. Hold it at 90degrees where possible to the pieceand one short but stead pull on the trigger for about a second.
Avoid at all costs trying to run a bead on vehicles, the parent metal is too thin and you will burn through and then have to build the hole up with weld.
Thankyou for the advice, it is really appreciated. Next time on the car I will work through this step by step. 👍👍👍
Is the primer you are using considered a “weld through” primer.
Hiya. I made sure it was. I'm pretty sure the shop paint on the panels isn't weld through and that is causing the problems. If I have time I will tidy up today
@@MiniorMinority Yes. Mig welders like a very clean surface and on thin metal just do a lot of spot welds and join them together allowing time to cool between them