Hi there. Hamish from Queensland Australia here. Im looking at building a loader for my Iseki Bolens G154 which is a small tractor with a 15hp engine. I see in the video that you say you use a 25 20 cylinder. I have tried finding a cylinder called that and not having much luck. Can you help me out with some more info on what cylinders you use perhaps part number as im not familiar with hydraulics.
www.princessauto.com is where I bought mine from on sale. Check out the site. You may want to consider a larger motor if you will be doing a lot of digging with the tractor.
I’m starting a build as well. The cylinder you used is a 2-1/2” bore with 20” stroke. That seems pretty robust. I was going to go with a 2” or 1-1/2” bore. How much weight do you figure you can lift?
@@dankozusko7042 - used the smaller diameter cylinder. It will be fine. The max i can lift is about 500lbs. The front end limits the weight the bucket can lift, as well as the counter balance.
Nice example of home craftsmanship. You've done a great job on fabricating a loader ofr your tractor. Did you build the frame mount as well or did you find something that you were able to retro-fit...?
Gary - I'll be using the stock pump and travel control valve. In addition, I'll be using a 2 spool directional control valve to control the loader, filter system and a larger oil reservoir. I'll be covering the specifics in a later video.
Howdie Farmer From Canada SK Dalmaza was wondering Awesome Video just wondering How ya get the Angle for your Arm,s Strong Build Keep us Posted thks again Easy to Understand thks again
You done a VERY good job building the loader. But why didn't you bolt it to the tractor. I've built 2 in the past one for a cub 1811 and the other for a cub 1450. By building a bolt on mounting system there's no welds to cut if someone wanted to remove the loader for repairs to the tractor or loader. Or possibly to use the loader on a different tractor. But I do have to say you DONE A DAMN GREAT job building that loader it looks great.
Thanks! I have no plans to sell the loader, arms or tractor. The Case was a $200 basket case, and not worth restoring in the first place. Also welding is much faster.
Generally speaking you either use two bucket cylinders or one center cylinder ... I've seen your method used twice before and both times the loader frame got twisted under use ... But I hope it works for you ...
Holy smokes thats one tough loader frame, even for a tractor several 4x larger. Nice fab work!
itching for the next video. how many more till the EPS.
Hi there. Hamish from Queensland Australia here. Im looking at building a loader for my Iseki Bolens G154 which is a small tractor with a 15hp engine. I see in the video that you say you use a 25 20 cylinder. I have tried finding a cylinder called that and not having much luck. Can you help me out with some more info on what cylinders you use perhaps part number as im not familiar with hydraulics.
www.princessauto.com is where I bought mine from on sale. Check out the site. You may want to consider a larger motor if you will be doing a lot of digging with the tractor.
I’m starting a build as well. The cylinder you used is a 2-1/2” bore with 20” stroke. That seems pretty robust. I was going to go with a 2” or 1-1/2” bore. How much weight do you figure you can lift?
@@dankozusko7042 - used the smaller diameter cylinder. It will be fine. The max i can lift is about 500lbs. The front end limits the weight the bucket can lift, as well as the counter balance.
Nice example of home craftsmanship. You've done a great job on fabricating a loader ofr your tractor. Did you build the frame mount as well or did you find something that you were able to retro-fit...?
where are you getting the pip for your pivot points?
Pins are from Princess Auto.
Are you going to be using the tractors hydraulics for the loader or a stand alone system that will run off of the tractors system?
Gary - I'll be using the stock pump and travel control valve. In addition, I'll be using a 2 spool directional control valve to control the loader, filter system and a larger oil reservoir. I'll be covering the specifics in a later video.
Howdie Farmer From Canada SK Dalmaza was wondering Awesome Video just wondering How ya get the Angle for your Arm,s Strong Build Keep us Posted thks again Easy to Understand thks again
I wanted to keep the bucket as close as possible to the tractor wheel base. It also makes it easier to navigate in tight spots.
You done a VERY good job building the loader. But why didn't you bolt it to the tractor. I've built 2 in the past one for a cub 1811 and the other for a cub 1450. By building a bolt on mounting system there's no welds to cut if someone wanted to remove the loader for repairs to the tractor or loader. Or possibly to use the loader on a different tractor. But I do have to say you DONE A DAMN GREAT job building that loader it looks great.
Thanks! I have no plans to sell the loader, arms or tractor. The Case was a $200 basket case, and not worth restoring in the first place. Also welding is much faster.
Generally speaking you either use two bucket cylinders or one center cylinder ... I've seen your method used twice before and both times the loader frame got twisted under use ... But I hope it works for you ...
Génial 😉
I like it