I’ve found that adding “knurling” to a top plate will also add a substantial amount of lateral holding force without the need to add a piece of sandpaper that could cause flatness issues and could come loose. Just make sure the knurling depth is low enough that there is still a decent amount of flat area for the part to rest on. It also provides the same benefit of the slots you have to ensure the vacuum force is uniform under the part.
I agree with everything I just saw- I figured this out independently when I ran a vac table Haas VF5 for 3 years. I've never done the sandpaper trick though- that looks like it would work well 👍
pretty cool advisee sir as a very old time machinist with small part in demand, I look forward to the 400 grit paper holding trick---much thanks and I'll check out your other videos.. Thanks from Oregon.
@Pierson Workholding great video and thanks for the tips. Couple of questions though, tip 4 you say put a radius on your corners, however on your plenum the 'risers' seem to be square? Tip 5 says maximise your vacuum area, is there a reason you don't put a sort of + groove(that I see on some other designs) on the top of the 'risers' so the vacuum get under there? thanks again
Just out of curiosity, do you all sell O-rings made from your gasket material? That would be really helpful for those who would like to put O-rings around individual bolt holes.
how much should be the gasket higher than the plate to allow for a good seal but as well to allow the working piece especially the thin one to lay uniformily on the entire vacuum plate ? Thank you.
For all sizes of gasket, the groove width should be 95% of the gasket diameter. The groove depth should be 75-80% of the gasket diameter. This means our 1/8" gasket should have a width of .118" and a depth of .094"-.100". If the workpiece is extremely thin, I suggest an even deeper groove so the gasket is compressed less.
Could I run parts that drill/tap through? Would the drill poking through to the vacuum chuck damage it? I run a lot of plastic parts, should I worry about scratches to my parts?
You'd have to use one of our Top Plates to create areas that break through. Here's a link to several videos that discuss everything about top plates: piersonworkholding.com/media/#tab_smartvac
✅ NEW VIDEO ❕ NEVER DO THIS with a pallet fixture❕ 👉 ruclips.net/video/aospka2Da0Q/видео.html ruclips.net/video/4oFe7XyzrL0/видео.html
thank you for that wet sand paper tip. it really saved my day.
I’ve found that adding “knurling” to a top plate will also add a substantial amount of lateral holding force without the need to add a piece of sandpaper that could cause flatness issues and could come loose.
Just make sure the knurling depth is low enough that there is still a decent amount of flat area for the part to rest on. It also provides the same benefit of the slots you have to ensure the vacuum force is uniform under the part.
Interesting idea with the sandpaper, and awesome video thanks!
I agree with everything I just saw- I figured this out independently when I ran a vac table Haas VF5 for 3 years. I've never done the sandpaper trick though- that looks like it would work well 👍
pretty cool advisee sir as a very old time machinist with small part in demand, I look forward to the 400 grit paper holding trick---much thanks and I'll check out your other videos.. Thanks from Oregon.
Great tip on the sandpaper, wasn't familiar with that one.
Love that sandpaper tip!
Great video, as always.
Sweet video! Excellent cinematography and editing, the sound could use a little help though.
I'm always surprised with how many shops not knowing about vacuum fixtures it blows my mind.
Really nice production quality! And great advice!!
Very Good Tips.
Thank you for sharing.
Peter.
Very useful Thanks you for your all information👍
@Pierson Workholding great video and thanks for the tips. Couple of questions though, tip 4 you say put a radius on your corners, however on your plenum the 'risers' seem to be square? Tip 5 says maximise your vacuum area, is there a reason you don't put a sort of + groove(that I see on some other designs) on the top of the 'risers' so the vacuum get under there? thanks again
Good info and right on time. We're about to start making some Acrylic parts that will use the vacuum pallet. Thank you
Great video! I was wondering if the 400 grit sandpaper tip would apply to those using vacuum fixtures/pods on woodworking CNC routers?
It should but you'd want to use a heavier grit like under 100.
@@PiersonWorkholding Thanks...worth a try one of these days.
Just out of curiosity, do you all sell O-rings made from your gasket material? That would be really helpful for those who would like to put O-rings around individual bolt holes.
What is the best durometer for gasket material. What about using silicone chording? I had better luck not using a gasket. Haas VF-3 SS
how much should be the gasket higher than the plate to allow for a good seal but as well to allow the working piece especially the thin one to lay uniformily on the entire vacuum plate ? Thank you.
For all sizes of gasket, the groove width should be 95% of the gasket diameter. The groove depth should be 75-80% of the gasket diameter. This means our 1/8" gasket should have a width of .118" and a depth of .094"-.100". If the workpiece is extremely thin, I suggest an even deeper groove so the gasket is compressed less.
Great! Where can I get the slot width in metric dimensions?
Multiply by 25.4 to get dimensions in millimeters.
Could I run parts that drill/tap through? Would the drill poking through to the vacuum chuck damage it? I run a lot of plastic parts, should I worry about scratches to my parts?
You'd have to use one of our Top Plates to create areas that break through. Here's a link to several videos that discuss everything about top plates: piersonworkholding.com/media/#tab_smartvac
Excellent tips, however I could not help myself not reading 4ss as "ASS". :D
2:15 for tip #7 how are you supposed to connect them?
Butt them together as seen at 0:19.
This is how all 'user manuals' should be done.