At 2:08, I'm thinking "that is genius" because I just watched a video of you applying the lacquer stick by hand...at 2:21 I'm chuckling along with your new gained knowledge....your videos are awesome....Thank You!
Im a CNC programmer/machinist. We normally use carbide 1mm ball nose endmills for engraving. Depth of only .005 - .010 thou. They cut clean using a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the surface.
I have used originally ethyl alcohol for my cutting and drilling of aluminum, due to some hint and because in those days I did not have isopropyl alcohol available. Nowadays it is the other way round. I am not sure, but my feeling is that isopropyl alcohol evaporates faster, already before my first hole is done.
Cheap and easy option for the laquer stick is nail polish. Comes in variety of colors, is very cheap and has a little minibrush integrated to the bottle lid to dip it in to the valleys. After it dries in couple of minutes, wipe with a moist acetone cloth/paper all the excess and done. Holds up to machine coolants very well and it is easy to make clear signs with different colors in them :)
Your videos have the distinct feature (what others may not have), that even though at first glance of the video title and thumbnail I'm not interested in the subject, I still find the video in itself very fascinating and well made - enjoyable, that is. Fantastic work, Wesley!
Here's a cool tip for even nicer looking name tags that I first tried over 40 years ago, on an amplifier's front and rear panels, that look as good today as when originally made. Anodise and dye the tags, I like black, but any colour, including fading one to another then engrave through the anodising to expose the aluminium below. Looks great and no need to polish or lacquer fill afterwards.
nice job , i didnt knew these kind of crayons , looks easy to color the engraves ! We can see still having rough edges , i would personally do the engraving then the brush you used , then a second carving pass to clear it up more , maybe a second brush pass . Thanks for sharing the infos !
I tried a couple of V-bits previously and ended up with a mess. They may work better on a different grade of aluminum, though. I plan to keep experimenting.
Really nice job and useful technique for holding thin sheets. Must try that myself for panels and PCBs. Should massively improve the PCB flatness and give a much more consistent surface level! A technique I used around 40 years ago to do a front panel for an amplifier I made was to black anodise the aluminium after cutting out panel holes but BEFORE engraving and to engrave through the black anodising to the bare aluminium. It looks as good today as the day I made it! If you get a chance you should try it sometime. Basically it gives the negative of your version.
@@skiinggator But man, a roll of tape is pretty cheap. However, your solution is best if you're going to produce a lot of parts. There would be no way to keep up production with a roll of tape.
Good Video.......Unless I missed it, it is very important to know the type of aluminum you should use. I always use 6061 aluminum, as it works great for machining. Google the various types of aluminum that are made and there uses.
I want one of those nameplates so badly. I've followed the simple instructions in the video. Now to keep my fingers crossed. It's just a shame I'll never make it to the Maker Faire. It sounds like an awesome experience.
Very good demo! Thanks - one observation: I recently noticed that on the aluminum nameplate of my 1952 Sears Craftsman table saw, they stamped the model number from the BACK side of the nameplate (using reversed or mirrored stamps?) anyway, it is different because when you look at the front of the nameplate, the model number appears with raised digits instead of sunken. Not sure why Sears did that and I'm not saying it is necessarily an improvement but I thought it interesting. They used 0.025 thick or 22 gauge for the nameplate.
You really do. It's a game changer I got mine last October almost already made the cost back just messing with it here and there. Check out inventables! They also finance through affirm.
4:40 I have found it a bit risky to tap on the number punches multiple times like that. There's a chance that the punch will bounce and move out of alignment between the hits.
Interesting. What exact bit do you use? And what is the thickest aluminum you have cut? I have snapped bits trying to cut aluminum and I can’t afford to keep doing that 😂
@dinoochello7074 follow this rules. 1 ethanol spray in the cut area. Don't worry, it's safe. 2 the pass cannot be higher than the bit diameters 3 use 1500mm / minute feed rate. Have fun
you can do a bit more aggressive cuts on the xcarve! also try single flute endmills, they are great because they reduce the cutting forces and cut your rpms down - you didnt make chips, its all dust wich is bad for cutter life :)
Actually I use metholated spirits when engraving, as no oily residue is left afterwards. And i've been engraving for 20 years and had no problems with using it
I run a multi cam router table every day. You should look into making a vacuum table to hold the metal down it works fairly well and you can always mill it flat when it gets to many mill marks in it. Also look into comic bits to do scribing projects
Mate make a small vacuum pad to hold that ally in place. Masking tape and glue is fine if you want to do one a day lol but vacuum pad you can change the ally out in seconds
I think you would get a cleaner crisper result with a square end bit - everyone seems to use a tapered ball bit for everything these days. Great bits, but there are others...horses for courses. Also, it will handle deeper cuts, it’s only 1mm, 2 passes with that bit would be ample.
Those look awesome .... I've got to order some lacquer sticks, I saw them for the first time just recently and I can think of dozens of ways to use them. Have fun at Maker Faire!!!
Hi Wesley. Have you tried using a V bit like the 1541 60degree V bit from Whiteside. I find that it gives a nice clean cut without all the furry bits. I also just give a spray with some spray paint and leave it for a few minutes before wiping it off lightly, leaving the colour in the engraving. Works for me anyway. Cheers
Total carve depth on the lettering in the specs appears incorrect? Total depth is .003" while pass depth is .005. Do you mean total depth of .030"? Great info, thanks for posting!
what bit did you use for this? my fire dept wants some plates in the fire engine to put accountability tags on so we know who is on the truck and what job they will be doing. thanks
I was wondering the same thing. I think minimum speed on the Dewalt is 15K rpm and max is somewhere around 30K rpm. That's a pretty wide swing. Since it's a Vbit and the flute contacting the material has a very small diameter, I'd say faster = better, but maybe we can get an answer...
@@WesleyTreat Thank you. I always wonder why people never read the description when they ask me questions like this on my videos. And now I did the same thing. I did go through some of the comments to see if someone asked this already but why didn't I read the description..... Why.......why........ *camera slowly zooms out. A gunshot is heard echoing in the distance.
Why don't you use a dedicated engraving bit? I know aluminum is not so easy to refine in terms of edges and detail but it might work better. Especially because the engraving bit has a much finer tip.
At 2:08, I'm thinking "that is genius" because I just watched a video of you applying the lacquer stick by hand...at 2:21 I'm chuckling along with your new gained knowledge....your videos are awesome....Thank You!
Im a CNC programmer/machinist. We normally use carbide 1mm ball nose endmills for engraving. Depth of only .005 - .010 thou. They cut clean using a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the surface.
"I" just use a center drill(laughs)
I do that too for part numbers. Works fine. 🤘
I have used originally ethyl alcohol for my cutting and drilling of aluminum, due to some hint and because in those days I did not have isopropyl alcohol available. Nowadays it is the other way round. I am not sure, but my feeling is that isopropyl alcohol evaporates faster, already before my first hole is done.
I 've used argan oil (dont ask why ^^) but i'had much better result that cutting dry
Cheap and easy option for the laquer stick is nail polish. Comes in variety of colors, is very cheap and has a little minibrush integrated to the bottle lid to dip it in to the valleys. After it dries in couple of minutes, wipe with a moist acetone cloth/paper all the excess and done. Holds up to machine coolants very well and it is easy to make clear signs with different colors in them :)
nail polish is one of the most expensive fluids out there.
I like how you did this video.
Quick demo and all the needed facts are neat and clean in the description. No hustle, no fuzz. 👍🏼
0axaodiamo
Amordamiavida
Used this on a project. Worked great! Thanks!
Love it when you show something (like the bottle of glue) for a moment, and then whip it out of the shot :D
Perfect timing. This came up in my recommended list as I've been contemplating a CNC for guitar amp faceplates. Very nice. Thank you.
Your videos have the distinct feature (what others may not have), that even though at first glance of the video title and thumbnail I'm not interested in the subject, I still find the video in itself very fascinating and well made - enjoyable, that is.
Fantastic work, Wesley!
Very good information found in this video
Still fun to watch. Thanks for your time.
Here's a cool tip for even nicer looking name tags that I first tried over 40 years ago, on an amplifier's front and rear panels, that look as good today as when originally made.
Anodise and dye the tags, I like black, but any colour, including fading one to another then engrave through the anodising to expose the aluminium below. Looks great and no need to polish or lacquer fill afterwards.
nice job , i didnt knew these kind of crayons , looks easy to color the engraves ! We can see still having rough edges , i would personally do the engraving then the brush you used , then a second carving pass to clear it up more , maybe a second brush pass . Thanks for sharing the infos !
A V bit works great for engraving to, one pass and your done. Great video and thanks for sharing!
I tried a couple of V-bits previously and ended up with a mess. They may work better on a different grade of aluminum, though. I plan to keep experimenting.
Wesley Treat where do you get your aluminum, and what kind is best?
thank you for good n a proper information may God bless you
OK. I like this. And good tip on the diy welding clamps. Subscribed.
Really nice job and useful technique for holding thin sheets. Must try that myself for panels and PCBs. Should massively improve the PCB flatness and give a much more consistent surface level!
A technique I used around 40 years ago to do a front panel for an amplifier I made was to black anodise the aluminium after cutting out panel holes but BEFORE engraving and to engrave through the black anodising to the bare aluminium.
It looks as good today as the day I made it! If you get a chance you should try it sometime. Basically it gives the negative of your version.
Looking all over the internet for metallic labels. Now I can make them myself. Great video and thanks for the link.
I have a CNC large vertical machining center I was going to try engraving on. I like the tape and glue idea.
You only need enough holding power so the part doesn't move you can also use double sided tape then a little acitone to get it off.
Magnetic plates and vacuum plates also work well
@@skiinggator But man, a roll of tape is pretty cheap. However, your solution is best if you're going to produce a lot of parts. There would be no way to keep up production with a roll of tape.
One of the best vid. on cnc machine. Thank u for all the info down below
I really have to get my Xcarve dialed in. Your videos give me some ambition. Lol
Beautiful
Good Video.......Unless I missed it, it is very important to know the type of aluminum you should use. I always use 6061 aluminum, as it works great for machining. Google the various types of aluminum that are made and there uses.
I want one of those nameplates so badly. I've followed the simple instructions in the video. Now to keep my fingers crossed. It's just a shame I'll never make it to the Maker Faire. It sounds like an awesome experience.
Very good demo! Thanks - one observation: I recently noticed that on the aluminum nameplate of my 1952 Sears Craftsman table saw, they stamped the model number from the BACK side of the nameplate (using reversed or mirrored stamps?) anyway, it is different because when you look at the front of the nameplate, the model number appears with raised digits instead of sunken. Not sure why Sears did that and I'm not saying it is necessarily an improvement but I thought it interesting. They used 0.025 thick or 22 gauge for the nameplate.
Great video! Thats a clever idea about the foam too! I think I need one of these machines in my life!!!
You really do. It's a game changer I got mine last October almost already made the cost back just messing with it here and there. Check out inventables! They also finance through affirm.
Nice video brother 👍👍👍
4:40 I have found it a bit risky to tap on the number punches multiple times like that. There's a chance that the punch will bounce and move out of alignment between the hits.
Excellent description
Awesome vid in the true spirt of shared information on RUclips. All power to you 👍🏻
Awesome project, see you at maker Faire!
Nice plates! Lacquer stick is new for me. Good job
Excellent 👍
I use bit 1 flute spiral 3 mm or 4 mm, cuts aluminum like butter, this cut on the video, it's made in 0ne pass.
Interesting. What exact bit do you use? And what is the thickest aluminum you have cut? I have snapped bits trying to cut aluminum and I can’t afford to keep doing that 😂
@dinoochello7074 follow this rules.
1 ethanol spray in the cut area.
Don't worry, it's safe.
2 the pass cannot be higher than the bit diameters
3 use 1500mm / minute feed rate.
Have fun
@dinoochello7074 my bits are 1 flute, spiral uppercut.
Thank you so much for the info! Huge help!
you can do a bit more aggressive cuts on the xcarve! also try single flute endmills, they are great because they reduce the cutting forces and cut your rpms down - you didnt make chips, its all dust wich is bad for cutter life :)
I tried more aggressive cuts with the tapered but and kept breaking tips. The helical bit produces good chips.
I sugest to use oil during engraving and finish will be clean i do like that
Actually I use metholated spirits when engraving, as no oily residue is left afterwards. And i've been engraving for 20 years and had no problems with using it
Wesley. Love the video I’m a complete noob looking to design something similar. I need guidance..
You should get some 60degree chamfer mills, as stated by others, you will get cleaner cuts when working in alu.
Tried it, but didn't get good results. Still experimenting.
You're awesome. Keep that up.
I run a multi cam router table every day. You should look into making a vacuum table to hold the metal down it works fairly well and you can always mill it flat when it gets to many mill marks in it. Also look into comic bits to do scribing projects
wouldnt be easier to use colored epoxy to fill in the letters?
Awesome very nice
This is an amazing tutorial and video, just subscribed!
It should be easy to make a stamp jig to hold those punches in line when you use them. That way all the numbers will always line up correctly.
Crooked gives it character.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your process. Never heard of a lacquer stick before. Mahalo! : )
Mate make a small vacuum pad to hold that ally in place. Masking tape and glue is fine if you want to do one a day lol but vacuum pad you can change the ally out in seconds
I'm not mass producing these. 🤷♂️
i reaally need to get somthing like this made up! to remake some 80s/90s decals/bezels for my car!:O
Cool to see how this thing I have was made! :-) Thanks!
Eu utilizo fresa flat e e óleo lubrificante. Não fica rebarbas e a gravação fica com ótima qualidade
always informative and always entertaining! keep on keepin' on!!!!
I think you would get a cleaner crisper result with a square end bit - everyone seems to use a tapered ball bit for everything these days. Great bits, but there are others...horses for courses. Also, it will handle deeper cuts, it’s only 1mm, 2 passes with that bit would be ample.
good job ,thanks for the video
Good job! Subscribed!
You can use oil while engraving on it next time to to get a clean results.
Tried it. Didn't make a difference. But most of the burrs you see in the video brush off with a toothbrush. It's not that messy.
very nice but I think it depends on the graphic, the alloy is or can be difficult with very fine work, engraving under 0.2 mm
Nice work it's my recommended list I know about the machine how it's programming
See if you can get a diamond drag tip on that machine... save you the trouble of hand punching info onto your data plates
Those look awesome .... I've got to order some lacquer sticks, I saw them for the first time just recently and I can think of dozens of ways to use them. Have fun at Maker Faire!!!
Живописный мужичок.
What software are you using
Hi Wesley. Have you tried using a V bit like the 1541 60degree V bit from Whiteside. I find that it gives a nice clean cut without all the furry bits. I also just give a spray with some spray paint and leave it for a few minutes before wiping it off lightly, leaving the colour in the engraving. Works for me anyway. Cheers
Kudos for sharing useful infos
Good job 😁👍
Love your videos, very inspiring!
Good looking plates 👍
идея с "два скотча и клей" это просто и гениально, как я сам не догадался ?!
Very nice!
Thank you
Incredible
making me look forward to getting my shop space moved into the garage.
Can do it in brass and steel sheets also?
This is really great.. Thank you :)
Can you tell us what the lacquer stick is please?
What is it, and what are its properties? Does it wear well?
Information in the video description.
Nice are you still doing it
Sweet video sir.
What are you using for a collet on the router? Almost looks like it is magnetic
Could one potentially engrave say, a firearm receiver doing this method vs a fiber laser?
Total carve depth on the lettering in the specs appears incorrect? Total depth is .003" while pass depth is .005. Do you mean total depth of .030"? Great info, thanks for posting!
DPP applies to that bit in aluminum. Total depth for this project happens to be less than that. 👍
I would recommend you to try wit a diamond drag engraving bit, much more detailed finish...
And for cutting the aluminium, use a single spiral flute cnc router bit, easier and cleaner edge...
How many miles will a diamond drag bit last?
what bit did you use for this? my fire dept wants some plates in the fire engine to put accountability tags on so we know who is on the truck and what job they will be doing. thanks
Please...
What about Spindle Speed Value ?
I was wondering the same thing. I think minimum speed on the Dewalt is 15K rpm and max is somewhere around 30K rpm. That's a pretty wide swing. Since it's a Vbit and the flute contacting the material has a very small diameter, I'd say faster = better, but maybe we can get an answer...
What's best thing to colour in black on a brass plate?
Well done. However, May I know why you did not mill the numbers using the cnc machine as a part of the design itself.
Because then they wouldn't look stamped. 👍
Ur machine suprb sir
What exactly are these lacquer sticks and do they go by any other names? I tried searching ebay but couldn't find them.
Link in the video description. 👍
@@WesleyTreat Thank you. I always wonder why people never read the description when they ask me questions like this on my videos. And now I did the same thing. I did go through some of the comments to see if someone asked this already but why didn't I read the description..... Why.......why........
*camera slowly zooms out. A gunshot is heard echoing in the distance.
great job as always- cnc needs a little more refinement as it should look perfect for the work that you do. its tough to get good looking font !
Hi!Nice work!!!
Nicely done. Saw it on IG and thought MFBA was your take on BAMF.
Yes, but CT is not the same as AGMBF becuse their version of AM is also the version XTX did for the BAMF, VVB is original of SDRT btw..
Great video! See you tonight!
That is slick!
Where did you get that collet?
a great tip for not damaging a tip
is This CNC router of wood ?
Did you tap out the 20th Century Fox fanfare theme at 4:38?
Thank you 😊 sir
🇮🇳
Why don't you use a dedicated engraving bit? I know aluminum is not so easy to refine in terms of edges and detail but it might work better. Especially because the engraving bit has a much finer tip.
Can u pls tell me what the technique of engraving 2019 in 4:43 is called .
was just hoping to know what the machinery involved costs.....
We can create name in membership card?
I need to buy this engraving, can you help me? thank you
Nice.
Dumb Question but where did you get that collar for your router?