Thanks Michal for the explanatory video. I emailed you as part of that vacation avalanche. Looking forward to my first Tamenuri Studio pen arriving and then seeing what comes next!
In simple words? Good threads (cut with urushi in mind) are the Key. Then - primer (only nuri kasane, very thin. Then your target layers - usually No more than 3. And each time cure super well. If i had to elaborate - it’s a material for 2 long videos ;)) It’s difficult. And my threads are not always perfect. But then never peel off, but they might be subiect to wearing faster on some pens. As I said - the better you cut the threads, the easier is to lacquer them properly. On pens made not taking urushi into account while cutting threads it’s often almost impossible.
I use several different polishing pastes on this video. Sanjet p-555 and p-616, migakiko with oil, two other Sanwa powders (white and green dozuri) mixed with oil, fine tonoko with oil, same but filtered. I also use sumiko (charcoal) with water and/or oil but I think i did nit show it.
Instead of sanjet you can use any other non-silicone pastes made for car paint - they are available in many grits and consistencies. Meguiars, Menzerna, Farecla just name a few brands.
Raw - refrigerated. Other - in dry płace ;) there is no precise rule - some can loose properties after 6-9 months, some are strong and cure well even several years old.
Impeccable mate! Keep surprising us!! Long live the tradition! Long live writing instruments!! ✒️🖋️
I bought a cigar case that fits two cigars to house my current model 5 and hopefully another one. Looking forward to these being available.
Thanks Michal for the explanatory video. I emailed you as part of that vacation avalanche. Looking forward to my first Tamenuri Studio pen arriving and then seeing what comes next!
I’ve shipped it yesterday ;)
Hello, would you share about how to apply urushi to the threads? Is there anything special to prevent urushi from pealing off the threads? Thanks!
In simple words? Good threads (cut with urushi in mind) are the Key. Then - primer (only nuri kasane, very thin. Then your target layers - usually No more than 3. And each time cure super well.
If i had to elaborate - it’s a material for 2 long videos ;))
It’s difficult. And my threads are not always perfect. But then never peel off, but they might be subiect to wearing faster on some pens. As I said - the better you cut the threads, the easier is to lacquer them properly. On pens made not taking urushi into account while cutting threads it’s often almost impossible.
@@TamenuriStudio Thank you very much.
Also, what brand of urushi do you use?
Many different sources and procesors. Recently more and more bespoke.
Hi Michael, what is the white paste you use for polishing ?
I use several different polishing pastes on this video. Sanjet p-555 and p-616, migakiko with oil, two other Sanwa powders (white and green dozuri) mixed with oil, fine tonoko with oil, same but filtered. I also use sumiko (charcoal) with water and/or oil but I think i did nit show it.
Instead of sanjet you can use any other non-silicone pastes made for car paint - they are available in many grits and consistencies. Meguiars, Menzerna, Farecla just name a few brands.
@@TamenuriStudio What about Colgate? 🤭Still paste i nie rysuje szkliwa. 😉
How do you store your urushi and how long can it be stored before it is unusable?
Thanks
Raw - refrigerated. Other - in dry płace ;) there is no precise rule - some can loose properties after 6-9 months, some are strong and cure well even several years old.
Przepraszam, że wejdę w słowo bo mam zapytanie... A czy można przerobić pióro na ołówek??? 🖋->✏Taki "functional recycling" 😎