This was the first carburetor clean and rebuild I have ever done. Your video was excellent and the chainsaw (MS 290) runs beautifully. Word of warning that not only should one empty the fuel tank, but also run the chainsaw to get the fuel out of the line to the carburetor. When I pulled out the carburetor, I was showered with a spray of gasoline! Thank you very much.
Very good and detailed video. I was getting ready to remove the carb and noticed that the holes in the fuel tank vent were completely clogged. I cleaned them out with a sewing needle and tried to start it for what seemed like the 20th time and sure enough, it started right up. I never would have even consider this a problem without this video. Thanks again for you attention to detail.
I was worried how slow and methodical this was, but actually very helpful. I have a nearly identical Stihl, a Farm Boss, and learned a lot with watching your well placed screen shots. I have one that won’t stay running and wondering if just a carb issue. I also appreciated you editing through the steps and cutting out the mundane...Spaying that inflammable. Classic! Great video to see all the parts of the carburetor and how they are connected. Carb didn’t look that bad. I wonder if you really needed a rebuild and could have just be cleaned or soaked like another commenter said.
Thank you for posting the video with good close-up views of the parts! You took you time and it was well worth the 1/2 hour. The carb on my MS250 was very similar to yours, and my saw got to where would not start. Cleaned up the carb with Gumout, swapped out the gaskets, and got it started on 4th pull!
Thank you sir! just what I needed. Walbro carbs are made right down the road from me, here in Michigan. They have answered the phone and kindly helped in the past. US
Great video! And methodical enough for me to comprehend while checking out my MS290 at the same time. One thing I did notice was that your saw didn't have a couple of 8mm hex nuts that hold down the carburetor independent of the air filter screws (mine has them). There are recesses on the back side of the filter housing that will accommodate those nuts if you wanted to install them on the studs.
great vid love the close up details, I always use a blow gun to blow all the saw dust and junk from the carb area before I take the air filter off THANX!
I am not an expert, either, but I have an engineering background and have been working on stuff for nigh onto 50 years. I have an 029 that I picked up after it had been straight gased. I have owned 290 and 291, so I am very familiar with this saw. Every time I get something fixed on the 029 it comes back with something new. I put a Chinese cylinder and piston in it last month and now it does not have enough compression to crank it. I have a new cylinder and piston from hL supply ready to go in it. I should hate the 029 with as much problems that it has caused me but I consider it a challenge. Not that I have not considered just dropping it in the trash can on more than one occasion. I think I have seen just about everything it has to offer and it has been a great experience working on it. It has taught me a lot.
After watching this, I want to order a carb kit for my MS290. Its running great right now but I am sure things are degrading somewhere. Thank you for the video.
Nicely done! My ms290 is going on 7 years and needing some carb attention. I blew out the fuel filter, next is to replace the fuel filter, and then if those fail, to do a carb rebuild.
It looks like you may not have gotten the screw that holds the needle/clip/spring assembly fastened down tightly. As you were tightening the screw, it looks like your screwdriver slipped out of the center of the screw head, causing a portion of the screwdriver to extend outside the diameter of the screw head. As you attempted to tighten the screw, that portion of the screwdriver extending outside of the screw head appears to have been obstructed in its movement by the body of the carburetor. The resistance caused by this obstruction probably mimicked the sensation of a tightly fastened screw, when, in fact, the screw in question may not have actually been tightly seated. To observe what I'm describing, start at about the 24:19 mark in the video and watch the next 5 seconds.
Thank you very much for this helpful video. My chainsaw is ready to have exactly the same surgery ;-). Nice and easy. Great way of explaining things. I bet you're a lovely grandfather too ;-)
I try to use genuine Walbro parts when I can. It is a K10-HD, but some Chinese parts are pretty good, but I hate having to go back in a carb after I just rebuilt it, hence the use of genuine Walbro parts. I set the lever on an HD level with the top of the carb body and a WJ level with the top of its little slot.
That light brown piece is the pump diaphragm. Sometimes they are clear or even blue. The form a check valve typ operation in the pump side of the carb. The diaphragm on the metering side is usually black and has an aluminum ring in the center. The gasket on the pump side separates the passageways in the pump side cover. All the gasket on the metering side does is seal the metering side. The pump side has one screw and the metering side has two or four screws - two on a Zama and four on a Walbro
Helpful video, BUT major error at 25:47. He put the diaphragm onto the the body BEFORE he installed the gasket. Wrong. The gasket must be installed first onto the body, then the diaphragm goes onto the gasket, and finally, the cap/cover is installed. With the diaphragm installed incorrectly it will interfere with operation. To assure yourself of the correct way, study the frames from 19:43 to 20:11.
I know this is weird, but this video shows at about 0:54 a Stihl carb (different type, though) with the gasket on the outside, diaphragm on the inside, just like he does it. ruclips.net/video/XSrcW3PJ0wQ/видео.html
Glenn Troester was about to write the same thing. Surprised the carb performed well after the rebuild. Metering diaphragm never goes on to the body of the carb, always on top of the gasket instead flush with the outside cover.
infidel heretic in that video you posted. 0:54 shows the Pump Diaphram being flush with the carb body which is always correct, but a Metering Diaphragm never goes on the same way. Glenn is correct, the gentlemen in this video installed it incorrectly. It’s amazing it ran as well as it did. Having said all that charlyfarly2 did an awesome job making this video. Well paced and video was done quite well. Definitely one of the better videos on RUclips for this repair.
This series of saws are known to break the little snap connector on the rear handle which causes the Master Control Lever to become unsnapped when you press it into cold start. I have used a cable tie to keep it connected in its slot. Not to tight, though
I don't want to knock your video it is good. But the section where the diaphragm & gasket are layered you put it back together on the wrong order in reference to how it was originally. A)- It's gasket first on the carb. B)- Then the diaphragm on top of the gasket. C)- Then the cover and screw. If the order is reversed you will not get the right gas flow and it may run bad or not at all. I thought this is important to clarify.
I use a business card which is .010 thick. Some folks use .012 but I stick with the standard business hard. I also have a brass .010 feeler gage that I could use. You cannot use a regular steel feeler gage because the magnet on the flywheel will suck it right in. I just rotate the flywheel until the magnets are near the coil and with the bolts on the ignition coil partially loose I insert the business card between the flywheel and the two poles of the coil. I then continue to rotate the flywheel (CW) until the magnets in the flywheel suck the coil towards the flywheel. I then tighten the bolts on the coil and rotate the flywheel in reverse until I can remove the card. I then rotate the flywheel through one revolution to make sure it does not contact the coil. On an 029,290 or 291 make sure you route the coil wire up the little slot in the rear wall and not under the rear wall. You will have to remove and reinstall the spark plug boot to do this. Make sure you get the electrical connector back in the boot, correctly, and centered, so it can connect to the spark plug.
Umm, I have 2 nuts that secure the carb, that screw on before re-attaching the air filter. They hold the carb in place, the air filer bolts don't do this. Bur if your way works, who cares.... Thanks for the video, it made everything easy.
one of the best videos I have ever watched on chaisaw repair. I have this exact saw. Im about to have a nervous breakdown however trying to get the carb adjusted. any help would be appreciated.
My 029 threw a new one on me, yesterday. She blew off her fuel filter, which caused me to have to clean her carburetor much better than normal. I cleaned every orrifice on it. The debris it sucked in had caused the lifter to be stuck in the full open position and she would puke gas out the spark plug hole like a baby every time I tried to un-flood her. 😩
Instead of a rebuild I soak mine in Seafoam cleaner from the autoshop for 2 hours. It's clear when you start then turns amber color as it breaks out the plaque. Usually caused by ethanol fuel.
On an HD the gasket goes on first and the diaphragm, second. Consult the Walbro service manual on their website. Since they do not make the HD, anymore, you will have to look at the HDA manual for details.
elieve you placed the gasket and rubber diaphragm over the needle valve in the wrong order. The gasket should be against the carb body and the rubber diaphragm is between the gasket and the cover. This is opposite to the other cover on the opposite side where the gasket rests against the cover and the other diaphragm is against the carb body.
The fuel inlet arm is in a raised position from the carb body.How do you gage the height of the arm that is activated by the diaphragm button.I would assume that if the height was wrong the engine would flood.
I think that you but it back wrong. The rubber gasket goes on before the metering diaphragm! This allows a correct height for it to move back and forth. The way you put it on limits it’s upward movement.
How big did you set the metering side lifter - level with the top of the carburetor body? That is the normal location for most Walbro carburetors. Or, did you just put the new lever in and leave it at its new height?
I checked to see if there where lock washers behind the two nuts. Surprised to see this video where he takes the air filter off and the two nuts that secure the carburetor are missing altogether. That means there isn't a good seal to the rear of the carburetor.
Hope you're doing well Charlyfarly2. You made this video over 3yrs ago and it's one of the very best I've seen...and I've seen a lot♥ Someone mentioned earlier that during the installation you mistakenly placed the metering diaphragm onto the carb body first. Was wondering if you corrected that error or is the saw still running well? Cheers
I guess it takes plenty of patience and a steady hand to do the job. OK so he made a mistake but I'm sure the machine will run. A slight mistake like that shouldn't hurt anything.
I like your video right up to where you pushed the chain saw back and forth like a hand saw. ??? There is no reason to do that, the chain saw moves the chain teeth just fine all by its self. Have a nice day.
There's always an ass in every crowd. You criticize him then say,. "have a nice day." There's no reason to post a comment telling someone else what to do when they didn't ask for your opinion on how to do it in the first place. Have a nice day.
You know when I take anything apart which has more than 12 steps I take a video of it so Il know how to put it back together and ensure I don't forget anything, lol
For season change. Winter and summer. For the MS290 there is a rubber part that also needs to be changed for season. Once that is done, the plastic part will be placed in slot. There is a sun on one side and a snowflake on the other.
This guy might be able to fix a carb. His operating skills are not good tho. You dont need to do a sawing motion while running a chainsaw there bub. Bite the dogs in and give er hell. Theres my .02
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This was the most excruciating, tedious, detailed video I've seen, on a carb rebuild. It was fantastic!
I made it for people like me :)
I love the clock ticking in the background AWESOME Charly !!
@@Charlyfarly2 yes you did Charley, very good absolutely the clearest photograph.
@@Charlyfarly2 1:33 oil mix ok?
The angles for video, clarity of picture, explanations and everything were spot on. Well done and thank you
This was the first carburetor clean and rebuild I have ever done. Your video was excellent and the chainsaw (MS 290) runs beautifully. Word of warning that not only should one empty the fuel tank, but also run the chainsaw to get the fuel out of the line to the carburetor. When I pulled out the carburetor, I was showered with a spray of gasoline! Thank you very much.
I like that you did this video in your kitchen. Thanks for taking the time to document these steps so well.
The closeups were very helpful to understand just what went where. Great video.
Very good and detailed video. I was getting ready to remove the carb and noticed that the holes in the fuel tank vent were completely clogged. I cleaned them out with a sewing needle and tried to start it for what seemed like the 20th time and sure enough, it started right up. I never would have even consider this a problem without this video. Thanks again for you attention to detail.
Most in depth comprehensive video I've ever watched. Excellent explanation, wonderful close ups,and great video quality. Thank you very much.
He now has a powered handsaw....lol....Thank you for the wonderful video on the carb rebuild. Take care.
odd form indeed
I was worried how slow and methodical this was, but actually very helpful. I have a nearly identical Stihl, a Farm Boss, and learned a lot with watching your well placed screen shots. I have one that won’t stay running and wondering if just a carb issue. I also appreciated you editing through the steps and cutting out the mundane...Spaying that inflammable. Classic! Great video to see all the parts of the carburetor and how they are connected.
Carb didn’t look that bad. I wonder if you really needed a rebuild and could have just be cleaned or soaked like another commenter said.
Nice job - I appreciated the pace and deliberateness...and great camera work. Thanks again.
Absolutely the best video on rebuilding/cleaning the carburetor for the stihl .
very much appreciated 🎥,i just replaced my carb & installed a tune-up kit on my ms290.this vid gave me just what info i needed 2 get it done.
Thank you! Very helpful to know what to expect when I gave it a go.
Thank you for posting the video with good close-up views of the parts! You took you time and it was well worth the 1/2 hour. The carb on my MS250 was very similar to yours, and my saw got to where would not start. Cleaned up the carb with Gumout, swapped out the gaskets, and got it started on 4th pull!
You're great man, nice to see someone so patient and talented at your age. Can't thank you enough.
Best show and tell video ever. Thank you Charly
Thank you sir! just what I needed. Walbro carbs are made right down the road from me, here in Michigan. They have answered the phone and kindly helped in the past. US
I had to come back and look at you put this together so I put mine together the correct way thank you
Hands down best video for shots of what you're working on, just put the playback speed at 2x lol. Great video brother, THANKS!
Great video! And methodical enough for me to comprehend while checking out my MS290 at the same time.
One thing I did notice was that your saw didn't have a couple of 8mm hex nuts that hold down the carburetor independent of the air filter screws (mine has them). There are recesses on the back side of the filter housing that will accommodate those nuts if you wanted to install them on the studs.
great vid love the close up details, I always use a blow gun to blow all the saw dust and junk from the carb area before I take the air filter off THANX!
Great video! Very detailed. And I appreciate the good camera work. -. I was able to do the job & my Stihl started 1st pull. Many thx !!
Don't listen to them Charly... calm and precise, Thankyou ,you fixed my Chainsaw.
I am not an expert, either, but I have an engineering background and have been working on stuff for nigh onto 50 years. I have an 029 that I picked up after it had been straight gased. I have owned 290 and 291, so I am very familiar with this saw. Every time I get something fixed on the 029 it comes back with something new. I put a Chinese cylinder and piston in it last month and now it does not have enough compression to crank it. I have a new cylinder and piston from hL supply ready to go in it. I should hate the 029 with as much problems that it has caused me but I consider it a challenge. Not that I have not considered just dropping it in the trash can on more than one occasion. I think I have seen just about everything it has to offer and it has been a great experience working on it. It has taught me a lot.
Hi John. Any tips on setting the gap?
Good work Gramps....camera work was great and your explanation couldn't be better !!!
After watching this, I want to order a carb kit for my MS290. Its running great right now but I am sure things are degrading somewhere. Thank you for the video.
Great video!!! Thank you so much for sharing!
thank you for posting. i will be fixing my fathers this week and your video is like gold
Nicely done! My ms290 is going on 7 years and needing some carb attention. I blew out the fuel filter, next is to replace the fuel filter, and then if those fail, to do a carb rebuild.
Thank you
I agree with Greg Allen, this was the most detailed video I've seen, on the MS290 Car, thank you.
Very well done. Nicely detailed and explained. Thank you.
Best video for the ms290. Love the closeup video. Was very useful.
Thank you
That breather was not installed quite in the grove. Good video
Wonderful Job, a lot to learn from you. Thanks so much.
It’s safe to say that this video could have been 15 min and not 30 😂. But thanks for the post!
Very good video of this repair, best on utube ima and at a great pace for us dummies out there, thanks old man
Excellent Video! Thank you!
Excellent! The best I've see to date.
Very good camera work that showed in detail all parts concerned. Good explanation. Thank You
thanks for the vid! very instructive and great views with the camera! happy logging mate!!!
Thanks.
Excellent video. Thanks!
The close up video was very good.
It looks like you may not have gotten the screw that holds the needle/clip/spring assembly fastened down tightly. As you were tightening the screw, it looks like your screwdriver slipped out of the center of the screw head, causing a portion of the screwdriver to extend outside the diameter of the screw head. As you attempted to tighten the screw, that portion of the screwdriver extending outside of the screw head appears to have been obstructed in its movement by the body of the carburetor. The resistance caused by this obstruction probably mimicked the sensation of a tightly fastened screw, when, in fact, the screw in question may not have actually been tightly seated. To observe what I'm describing, start at about the 24:19 mark in the video and watch the next 5 seconds.
Thank you very much for this helpful video. My chainsaw is ready to have exactly the same surgery ;-). Nice and easy. Great way of explaining things. I bet you're a lovely grandfather too ;-)
I try to use genuine Walbro parts when I can. It is a K10-HD, but some Chinese parts are pretty good, but I hate having to go back in a carb after I just rebuilt it, hence the use of genuine Walbro parts. I set the lever on an HD level with the top of the carb body and a WJ level with the top of its little slot.
I love how he is taking his saw apart in his kitchen
Great video
That light brown piece is the pump diaphragm. Sometimes they are clear or even blue. The form a check valve typ operation in the pump side of the carb. The diaphragm on the metering side is usually black and has an aluminum ring in the center. The gasket on the pump side separates the passageways in the pump side cover. All the gasket on the metering side does is seal the metering side. The pump side has one screw and the metering side has two or four screws - two on a Zama and four on a Walbro
Very helpful. Thanks
Thank you. Good job with the close-ups of the work. What did you use for the camera? Thanks again!
Helpful video, BUT major error at 25:47. He put the diaphragm onto the the body BEFORE he installed the gasket. Wrong. The gasket must be installed first onto the body, then the diaphragm goes onto the gasket, and finally, the cap/cover is installed. With the diaphragm installed incorrectly it will interfere with operation. To assure yourself of the correct way, study the frames from 19:43 to 20:11.
I know this is weird, but this video shows at about 0:54 a Stihl carb (different type, though) with the gasket on the outside, diaphragm on the inside, just like he does it.
ruclips.net/video/XSrcW3PJ0wQ/видео.html
Glenn Troester was about to write the same thing. Surprised the carb performed well after the rebuild. Metering diaphragm never goes on to the body of the carb, always on top of the gasket instead flush with the outside cover.
infidel heretic in that video you posted. 0:54 shows the Pump Diaphram being flush with the carb body which is always correct, but a Metering Diaphragm never goes on the same way. Glenn is correct, the gentlemen in this video installed it incorrectly. It’s amazing it ran as well as it did. Having said all that charlyfarly2 did an awesome job making this video. Well paced and video was done quite well. Definitely one of the better videos on RUclips for this repair.
Yeah I noticed that too. I was wondering how it would affect the metering of the fuel.
This series of saws are known to break the little snap connector on the rear handle which causes the Master Control Lever to become unsnapped when you press it into cold start. I have used a cable tie to keep it connected in its slot. Not to tight, though
I don't want to knock your video it is good. But the section where the diaphragm & gasket are layered you put it back together on the wrong order in reference to how it was originally.
A)- It's gasket first on the carb.
B)- Then the diaphragm on top of the gasket.
C)- Then the cover and screw.
If the order is reversed you will not get the right gas flow and it may run bad or not at all. I thought this is important to clarify.
👍
I use a business card which is .010 thick. Some folks use .012 but I stick with the standard business hard. I also have a brass .010 feeler gage that I could use. You cannot use a regular steel feeler gage because the magnet on the flywheel will suck it right in.
I just rotate the flywheel until the magnets are near the coil and with the bolts on the ignition coil partially loose I insert the business card between the flywheel and the two poles of the coil. I then continue to rotate the flywheel (CW) until the magnets in the flywheel suck the coil towards the flywheel. I then tighten the bolts on the coil and rotate the flywheel in reverse until I can remove the card. I then rotate the flywheel through one revolution to make sure it does not contact the coil.
On an 029,290 or 291 make sure you route the coil wire up the little slot in the rear wall and not under the rear wall. You will have to remove and reinstall the spark plug boot to do this. Make sure you get the electrical connector back in the boot, correctly, and centered, so it can connect to the spark plug.
That is very useful. Thank you very much.
Umm, I have 2 nuts that secure the carb, that screw on before re-attaching the air filter. They hold the carb in place, the air filer bolts don't do this. Bur if your way works, who cares....
Thanks for the video, it made everything easy.
mine has them also
one of the best videos I have ever watched on chaisaw repair. I have this exact saw. Im about to have a nervous breakdown however trying to get the carb adjusted. any help would be appreciated.
My 029 threw a new one on me, yesterday. She blew off her fuel filter, which caused me to have to clean her carburetor much better than normal. I cleaned every orrifice on it. The debris it sucked in had caused the lifter to be stuck in the full open position and she would puke gas out the spark plug hole like a baby every time I tried to un-flood her. 😩
How would you get so much debris in your gas? Maybe clean the area around the gas and bar oil caps first?
the best instruction video I have seen. excellent work. thank you.
Great, amaizing video thanks!!
Great quality video
Instead of a rebuild I soak mine in Seafoam cleaner from the autoshop for 2 hours. It's clear when you start then turns amber color as it breaks out the plaque. Usually caused by ethanol fuel.
Like your style sir!
On an HD the gasket goes on first and the diaphragm, second. Consult the Walbro service manual on their website. Since they do not make the HD, anymore, you will have to look at the HDA manual for details.
I thought I was the only one to see that mine is opposite of what he did
24:44 Its me or you put the diaphragm wrong, the gasket goes first and then the diaphragm
elieve you placed the gasket and rubber diaphragm over the needle valve in the wrong order. The gasket should be against the carb body and the rubber diaphragm is between the gasket and the cover. This is opposite to the other cover on the opposite side where the gasket rests against the cover and the other diaphragm is against the carb body.
great work thanks a lot
The fuel inlet arm is in a raised position from the carb body.How do you gage the height of the arm that is activated by the diaphragm button.I would assume that if the height was wrong the engine would flood.
Very useful and detailed instruction..Thank you !
I think that you but it back wrong. The rubber gasket goes on before the metering diaphragm! This allows a correct height for it to move back and forth. The way you put it on limits it’s upward movement.
I put it all back as it came off and it works fine.
First gasket second metering diaphragm ALWAYS !!!
No one seemed to notice that mistake.
What are the green and black wited connected to under the carburetor?
How big did you set the metering side lifter - level with the top of the carburetor body? That is the normal location for most Walbro carburetors. Or, did you just put the new lever in and leave it at its new height?
The latter.
Good JOB lad. Can ship my ms290 you're way?.
I checked to see if there where lock washers behind the two nuts. Surprised to see this video where he takes the air filter off and the two nuts that secure the carburetor are missing altogether. That means there isn't a good seal to the rear of the carburetor.
Martin Landau?
I was expecting a sharp chain. Take care!
Thanks for your concern
Hope you're doing well Charlyfarly2. You made this video over 3yrs ago and it's one of the very best I've seen...and I've seen a lot♥ Someone mentioned earlier that during the installation you mistakenly placed the metering diaphragm onto the carb body first. Was wondering if you corrected that error or is the saw still running well? Cheers
Still OK
감사합니다
Would you do a detail video servicing this saw ?
That is beyond my capabilities. Sorry.
Why did you not put the two 8mm nuts on the studs to hold the carburetor?
Hi John. I am no expert on these things and just put it back together as it was when I got it
great video, very helpful
I guess it takes plenty of patience and a steady hand to do the job. OK so he made a mistake but I'm sure the machine will run. A slight mistake like that shouldn't hurt anything.
I like your video right up to where you pushed the chain saw back and forth like a hand saw. ??? There is no reason to do that, the chain saw moves the chain teeth just fine all by its self. Have a nice day.
There's always an ass in every crowd. You criticize him then say,. "have a nice day." There's no reason to post a comment telling someone else what to do when they didn't ask for your opinion on how to do it in the first place. Have a nice day.
😁👍👍👍👍👍
VOLUME TOO LOW
You need the patience of JOBE to suffer through this.....
Fist gasket after put the diafrom
What gap?
Flywheel & ignition module.
23:25 my spring doesn't stand straight erected like these, so i had massive problems place it into the bulge.
Arapça Rusça dil seçeneklerinin olduğu yere neden Türkçe yok?
You know when I take anything apart which has more than 12 steps I take a video of it so Il know how to put it back together and ensure I don't forget anything, lol
yep pictures of every step. don't we have it easy
Wrong montage reg. membrane! First the gasket then the membrane!
2:30 wha't this part called and what's it for?
For season change. Winter and summer. For the MS290 there is a rubber part that also needs to be changed for season. Once that is done, the plastic part will be placed in slot. There is a sun on one side and a snowflake on the other.
@@cboone7791 that's amazing! Thanks
Chuck you farly!
U are fix the rang
Why is Turkish not available in translation languages man?
No idea. Ask Google.
is that an air vent on the top cover of the carburetor? would it make the carb dirty ?
It mates to the air filter.
Great vid but that fuckin clock ticking...
It's what clocks do :)
Jesus, that was slow!
This guy might be able to fix a carb. His operating skills are not good tho. You dont need to do a sawing motion while running a chainsaw there bub. Bite the dogs in and give er hell. Theres my .02