Best video out there without having to hoist the engine up. Thanks good job. Every time I do a job I wish I’d videod it for others cos there’s nearly always a way to safely save time. One thing I do with subframes etc where positioning is critical. I often use a paint spray and spray round the bolts before removing, then it’s easy to line up in exact same position afterwards. Do the same with track rod ends if removing lock but too.
Thanks, Great video perfect for amateur mechanics like myself!....One thing I found is that access to the 2 hidden sump bolts at the gearbox were not as easy to get as in in your video. They were also very tight and not moving with the 5mm allen key. I have discovered that there are 2 dimpled areas in the flywheel and by cranking the engine (clockwise only) at the crankcase bolt, you can line one of these up with the access channel to the 2 bolts. This will allow access with a 10mm swivel socket to remove these bolts. Hopefully this will save someone a lot of pain if they ring the 5mm ball end allen of the bolt like I did!
Love the video easier than I thought . Do have 1 question as mine is 2008 model BRE engine I'm gonna have to do the oil pump and shaft .. does this part just unbolt and then bolt new one I to place or does it need lining up in some percefic way .. but your video is top notch well done man
So if I understand well, even I have the longer version of the hex shaft(100mm) that also need to be replaced after sometime? I have a 2012 CFFB engine with 190 000 km, I know it contains this 100mm shaft, but does that also need to be replaced?
Very informative. On your car the balance module was already replaced as it has longer hexagon drive shaft (100mm instead of 77mm) which was introduced only on the end of 2009 on CR engines. Drive shaft looks ok. I have same car but from 2011 (very last C6 model) which has 2.0 TDI CR and longer oil drive shaft by factory and I did not found any failure on net so far of these longer drive shafts, so I am keeping it with no change. I am now on 267000 km, so far everything goes well.
Hi, Very happy to hear your car goes well. I had no option to check if this car had already superseded oil pump so I bought two of them and fitted correct part as which one was inside, for this cars and engine type I highly recommend to replace it, and if big damage replace all parts or modify, as they are used and some older cars you don't have full access into service history so better do it anyway if never done. As far as I know common rail engine some types not even equiped with balance shafts and this type of oil pump drive so would say you don't have to worry much
@@duskokarakas989 I found on net that engines produced from October 2009 and so on are fitted with longer balance shaft. Which exact date I am not sure, to be on safe side it is better to buy cars produced from 2010 (not first registration but produced)
by the year of production 11.2009 it is 77mm---> change the timing belt, or earlier. from 12.2009 (2010) and later they have 100mm upgraded, they don't change. They are already for life. So even the first comonrails already have the old version
When you shine a light into the access to the bolt you should see the bolt head but one edge is obsured by the flywheel. You should be able to get the bolt with a long reach ball end 5mm allen key but mine was too tight and rung the 5mm head. By slowly cranking clockwise you will see the flywheel moving in front of the bolt. Keep going until you see all of the bolt head and then you be able to get at the bolt with a 10mm swivel socket… hope it helps
Hi, No, engine will start, if your car not starting there can be many possibilities, you need to see, is engine cranking, is there any fuel and so on. If not even cranking it could be that there was no oil pressure and engine seized. Hopefully this information is helpful Thanks for watching
Hi there. My car came on with oil pressure light and no power. I changed this hex key. Started up and had lots of white smoke. I tried to move the car and still no power but oil pressure light has gone. Any idea what’s wrong? Thank you
Hi, depends how long you drove car without oil pressure, maybe you didn't even notice light or there wasn't warning light if engine was on higher revs and so there was some oil pressure just enough so no warning, mostly turbocharger gets seized couse no enough pressure, engine gets damage if car driven much longer and on load without oil pressure. Hopefully all info is helpful
Hi mate, i have a golf mk5 1.9tdi pd engine. BXE. the car has 106000 miles on. I can hear a rattle from the engine. Coming from the bottom so I think it's the hex balance Shaft like you just changed. I think it's easier to do in my car because of no removing sub frame. I know that I have to remove the driver side inner wheel arch liner to get at the oil pump side of the engine. Should I do this right away??
I'm pretty sure it does, it's one of the shorter ones, 75mm... The 2.0 tdi's have a 100mm one in them, I have a 100mm one so I'll have to angle grind the 25mm off. Nope still ain't done the job yet either. 😮
Hi, as I never did on Audi A4, but can see subframe design, on the subframe you can see the engine is mounted on main peace of frame, it's not like on A6, you can double check is your model like that, just open bonnet and check where is engine seating with engine mounts. Hopefully helps you Thanks for watching
I got this problem . Was driving and suddenly 0 oil pressure. Turned of the engine. Recovery to service place. Started and did drive into the service station garage. Made some tests telling zero oil pressure. Then they drive the car out and suddenly no vacuum for the brakes. Do i have to change the vacuum pump to ??? Did it die cause to zero oil pressure?? Or is it something other ??... 2006 Audi A6 2.0 tdi 140 hp.
Hi, On this engine Oil pump and vacuum pump are driven separately, so oil pump down in sump and vacuum is as called tandem pump up on head which is fuel and vacuum pump together, so if they checked all hoses around than yes you need vacuum pump. Sometimes it happens that things fail in same time. Mainly they could orient repair on low oil pressure and than see your brakes as second fault. Hopefully they get it done properly. Thanks
hey thanks for the video .. on what mileage do you recommend doing this ...every 3 years or more .. i dont know if it was replaced yet,, i just bought 2007 a4 cabrio bpw with around 155000mi (250k km) EU model
Thanks for the video. I have a b6 passat 2.0 tdi 150k. Oil pressure warning light came on. Shut it down fairly quickly. Confirmed no oil pressure. I plan to take the sump off and locate this hex pin. If the pin is well worn can I get away with simply replacing it without having to take the balance shaft and oil pump from the car? What would be the best plan and what are the chances I’ve damaged other engine parts… run for approximately 2 mins after the oil pressure warning light came on.
Hi, very good video. I have a 2009 C6 with 2.0ltr CAGB engine with 101000 miles I have ordered a new hex shaft from Audi which they say is 77mm long on your video you talk about your hex is the upgraded one, yet when I asked Audi they only have the one listed for my car and no upgrade. Does the upgrade mean fitting a different pump for the longer shaft or will it be ok just to change the shaft from Audi and carry on driving for many more miles.
@@abdulbeany1894 yes I did mine but you have to replace the balance shaft as well as the hex drive, just replacing the hex drive doesn’t fix the problem as hex drive in balance shaft wears as well, the 77mm from Audi will fail again at some stage I replaced mine with the 100mm I got with new shaft
Hi, I could check, but if you go to Audi dealer with your car chassis, they know those things, so there is longer or shorter, take both and one small circlip. Hopefully all information was useful Thanks for watching
Best video out there without having to hoist the engine up. Thanks good job. Every time I do a job I wish I’d videod it for others cos there’s nearly always a way to safely save time. One thing I do with subframes etc where positioning is critical. I often use a paint spray and spray round the bolts before removing, then it’s easy to line up in exact same position afterwards. Do the same with track rod ends if removing lock but too.
I’m just about to do this replacement. Great tutorial 👌
Thanks, Great video perfect for amateur mechanics like myself!....One thing I found is that access to the 2 hidden sump bolts at the gearbox were not as easy to get as in in your video. They were also very tight and not moving with the 5mm allen key. I have discovered that there are 2 dimpled areas in the flywheel and by cranking the engine (clockwise only) at the crankcase bolt, you can line one of these up with the access channel to the 2 bolts. This will allow access with a 10mm swivel socket to remove these bolts. Hopefully this will save someone a lot of pain if they ring the 5mm ball end allen of the bolt like I did!
I'm at this stage now, is this dimple in the flywheel easily noticeable?
Great video buddy! Doesn’t make me so nervous of buying a 170 now 😂
Love the video easier than I thought . Do have 1 question as mine is 2008 model BRE engine I'm gonna have to do the oil pump and shaft .. does this part just unbolt and then bolt new one I to place or does it need lining up in some percefic way .. but your video is top notch well done man
So if I understand well, even I have the longer version of the hex shaft(100mm) that also need to be replaced after sometime?
I have a 2012 CFFB engine with 190 000 km, I know it contains this 100mm shaft, but does that also need to be replaced?
all audi models have this hex shaft? i have audi a4 b7 BPW 2.0 tdi
Very informative. On your car the balance module was already replaced as it has longer hexagon drive shaft (100mm instead of 77mm) which was introduced only on the end of 2009 on CR engines. Drive shaft looks ok. I have same car but from 2011 (very last C6 model) which has 2.0 TDI CR and longer oil drive shaft by factory and I did not found any failure on net so far of these longer drive shafts, so I am keeping it with no change. I am now on 267000 km, so far everything goes well.
Hi,
Very happy to hear your car goes well.
I had no option to check if this car had already superseded oil pump so I bought two of them and fitted correct part as which one was inside, for this cars and engine type I highly recommend to replace it, and if big damage replace all parts or modify, as they are used and some older cars you don't have full access into service history so better do it anyway if never done. As far as I know common rail engine some types not even equiped with balance shafts and this type of oil pump drive so would say you don't have to worry much
How do i know which motors have that longer shaft? My engine has a code CBAB.
Passat b6 2.0 103 kw 2009
@@duskokarakas989 I found on net that engines produced from October 2009 and so on are fitted with longer balance shaft. Which exact date I am not sure, to be on safe side it is better to buy cars produced from 2010 (not first registration but produced)
@@novak4142 eng.code CBAB
Model year A(2010)
by the year of production 11.2009 it is 77mm---> change the timing belt, or earlier.
from 12.2009 (2010) and later they have 100mm upgraded, they don't change. They are already for life. So even the first comonrails already have the old version
When you shine a light into the access to the bolt you should see the bolt head but one edge is obsured by the flywheel. You should be able to get the bolt with a long reach ball end 5mm allen key but mine was too tight and rung the 5mm head. By slowly cranking clockwise you will see the flywheel moving in front of the bolt. Keep going until you see all of the bolt head and then you be able to get at the bolt with a 10mm swivel socket… hope it helps
Fancy doing mine🤔👍
bad hex shaft making any sound when it is cold?
If it’s 77mm long standard can it be replaced with the 100mm one
Hi,
It cannot be fit all the way in, couse the reason for 2 lengths is different oil pumps.
Hopefully info is helpful
Thanks
@@out_of_service5844 mine is 2009 engine, BXE golf TDI 1.9. i have the 100mm Shaft is that right?
Could a worn out oil pump drive cause no start? With no fault codes for low oil pressure? Cheers
Hi,
No, engine will start, if your car not starting there can be many possibilities, you need to see, is engine cranking, is there any fuel and so on. If not even cranking it could be that there was no oil pressure and engine seized.
Hopefully this information is helpful
Thanks for watching
Brilliant guide! Thanks 👍
Hi there. My car came on with oil pressure light and no power. I changed this hex key. Started up and had lots of white smoke. I tried to move the car and still no power but oil pressure light has gone. Any idea what’s wrong?
Thank you
Hi, depends how long you drove car without oil pressure, maybe you didn't even notice light or there wasn't warning light if engine was on higher revs and so there was some oil pressure just enough so no warning, mostly turbocharger gets seized couse no enough pressure, engine gets damage if car driven much longer and on load without oil pressure.
Hopefully all info is helpful
Turbocharger
Yes you’re right. Turbo is seized. Thank you for your help.
Hi mate, i have a golf mk5 1.9tdi pd engine. BXE.
the car has 106000 miles on.
I can hear a rattle from the engine. Coming from the bottom so I think it's the hex balance Shaft like you just changed.
I think it's easier to do in my car because of no removing sub frame. I know that I have to remove the driver side inner wheel arch liner to get at the oil pump side of the engine.
Should I do this right away??
BXE doesn't have balance shaft
I'm pretty sure it does, it's one of the shorter ones, 75mm...
The 2.0 tdi's have a 100mm one in them, I have a 100mm one so I'll have to angle grind the 25mm off.
Nope still ain't done the job yet either. 😮
is this kind of repair on A4 B7 possible too, without lift the Engine?
Hi, as I never did on Audi A4, but can see subframe design, on the subframe you can see the engine is mounted on main peace of frame, it's not like on A6, you can double check is your model like that, just open bonnet and check where is engine seating with engine mounts.
Hopefully helps you
Thanks for watching
I got this problem . Was driving and suddenly 0 oil pressure. Turned of the engine. Recovery to service place. Started and did drive into the service station garage. Made some tests telling zero oil pressure. Then they drive the car out and suddenly no vacuum for the brakes. Do i have to change the vacuum pump to ???
Did it die cause to zero oil pressure?? Or is it something other ??... 2006 Audi A6 2.0 tdi 140 hp.
Hi,
On this engine Oil pump and vacuum pump are driven separately, so oil pump down in sump and vacuum is as called tandem pump up on head which is fuel and vacuum pump together, so if they checked all hoses around than yes you need vacuum pump. Sometimes it happens that things fail in same time.
Mainly they could orient repair on low oil pressure and than see your brakes as second fault.
Hopefully they get it done properly.
Thanks
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
A4 b8 is that similar to your car ?
hey thanks for the video .. on what mileage do you recommend doing this ...every 3 years or more .. i dont know if it was replaced yet,, i just bought 2007 a4 cabrio bpw with around 155000mi (250k km) EU model
My car is Audi q5 2014 2.0tdi 177hp with CQLC engine. Do i need to change the hex key? Thanks in advance!
does not change after 2010. upgraded 100mm version
Can anybody please tell me if the audi a5 engine code cglc 177hp has this problem with the hex shaft on the oil pump?
Thanks for the video. I have a b6 passat 2.0 tdi 150k. Oil pressure warning light came on. Shut it down fairly quickly. Confirmed no oil pressure. I plan to take the sump off and locate this hex pin. If the pin is well worn can I get away with simply replacing it without having to take the balance shaft and oil pump from the car? What would be the best plan and what are the chances I’ve damaged other engine parts… run for approximately 2 mins after the oil pressure warning light came on.
How did it go?
@@MrQueelie yes great success
@@benmessmer9577 Splendid! Well done
Hi, very good video.
I have a 2009 C6 with 2.0ltr CAGB engine with 101000 miles I have ordered a new hex shaft from Audi which they say is 77mm long on your video you talk about your hex is the upgraded one, yet when I asked Audi they only have the one listed for my car and no upgrade. Does the upgrade mean fitting a different pump for the longer shaft or will it be ok just to change the shaft from Audi and carry on driving for many more miles.
Hi was going to ask same thing did you get it sorted can you replace with longer hex key thanks
@@abdulbeany1894 yes I did mine but you have to replace the balance shaft as well as the hex drive, just replacing the hex drive doesn’t fix the problem as hex drive in balance shaft wears as well, the 77mm from Audi will fail again at some stage I replaced mine with the 100mm I got with new shaft
I’ve just bought BKD 130.000k do I have to do this?
IV been told my turbo had went but it waznt it was this dam hex shaft🤬 oh after I bought a new turbo🥺🤬
Would you please give me a parts number or where to look for it?
Hi,
I could check, but if you go to Audi dealer with your car chassis, they know those things, so there is longer or shorter, take both and one small circlip.
Hopefully all information was useful
Thanks for watching
great video
How many miles ?
My car got this problem at 315000 km. But , one friend of me got it at 256000 km. Think it has a lot do whit how often oil are changed.
How remove old hex?
@@cosminpetcu3286 17.20 minutes into the video . You can see how to do it. I used a magnet
Very good info thanks
Great job!
Hello maybe you remember part number?
Thank You Guy
goood jooob!
Tooop
Hey, how much Km had this shaft? i have 220000 and I'm scared
Minuto 24:40......que triste😭